which we will use on the trip over--and in the morning we will start
on our way back to Fort Shaw. With the furniture that belongs to the
quarters and the camp things, we were so comfortable in our own house
we decided that there was no necessity to go to Mrs. Adams's, except
for dinner and breakfast, although both General and Mrs. Adams have been
most hospitable and kind.
The way these two moves have come about seems very funny to me. Faye
was ordered over here to command C Company when it was left without an
officer, because he was senior second lieutenant in the regiment and
entitled to it. The captain of this company has been East on recruiting
service, and has just been relieved by Colonel Knight, captain of Faye's
company at Shaw; as that company is now without an officer, the senior
second lieutenant has to return and command his own company. This
recognition of a little rank has been expensive to us, and disagreeable
too. The lieutenants are constantly being moved about, often details
that apparently do not amount to much but which take much of their small
salary.
The Chinaman is going with us, for which I am most thankful, and at his
request we have decided to take the white chickens. Open boxes have been
made specially for them that fit on the rear ends of the wagons, and
we think they will be very comfortable--but we will certainly look like
emigrants when on the road. The two squirrels will go also. The men of
the company have sent me three squirrels during the winter. The dearest
one of all had been injured and lived only a few days. The flying
squirrel is the least interesting and seems stupid. It will lie around
and sleep during the entire day, but at dark will manage to get on some
high perch and flop down on your shoulder or head when you least expect
it and least desire it, too. The little uncanny thing cannot fly,
really, but the webs enable it to take tremendous leaps. I expect
that it looks absurd for us to be taking across the country a small
menagerie, but the squirrels were presents, and of course had to go, and
the chickens are beautiful, and give us quantities of eggs. Besides, if
we had left the chickens, Charlie might not have gone, for he feeds them
and watches over them as if they were his very own, and looks very cross
if the striker gives them even a little corn.
Night before last an unusually pleasant dancing party was given by
Captain McAndrews, when Faye and I were guests of honor. It was such a
surprise to us, and so kind in Captain McAndrews to give it, for he is a
bachelor. Supper was served in his own quarters, but dancing was in the
vacant set adjoining. The rooms were beautifully decorated with flags,
and the fragrant cedar and spruce. Mrs. Adams, wife of the commanding
officer, superintended all of the arrangements and also assisted in
receiving. The supper was simply delicious--as all army suppers are--and
I fancy that she and other ladies of the garrison were responsible for
the perfect salads and cakes.
The orchestra was from Bozeman, so the music was very good. Quite a
party of young people also, many of them friends of ours, came up from
Bozeman, which not only swelled the number of guests, but gave life to
the dance, for in a small garrison like this the number of partners is
limited. The country about here is beautiful now; the snow is melting
on the mountains, and there is such a lovely green every place, I almost
wish that we might have remained until fall, for along the valleys and
through the canons there are grand trails for horseback riding, while
Fort Shaw has nothing of the kind.
FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, July, 1880.
WE are with the commanding officer and his wife for a few days while our
house is being settled. Every room has just been painted and tinted and
looks so clean and bright. The Chinaman, squirrels, and chickens are
there now, and are already very much at home, and Charlie is delighted
that the chickens are so much admired.
The first part of the trip over was simply awful! The morning was
beautiful when we left Ellis--warm and sunny--and everybody came to see
us oft. We started in fine spirits, and all went well for ten or twelve
miles, when we got to the head waters of the Missouri, where the three
small rivers, Gallatin, Jefferson, and Madison join and make the one big
river. The drive through the forest right there is usually delightful,
and although we knew that the water was high in the Gallatin by Fort
Ellis, we were wholly unprepared for the scene that confronted us when
we reached the valley. Not one inch of ground could be seen--nothing
but the trees surrounded; by yellow, muddy water that showed quite a
current.
The regular stage road has been made higher than the ground because of
these July freshets, when the snow is melting on the mountains, but it
was impossible to keep on it, as its many turns could not be seen,
and it would not have helped much either, as the water was deep. The
ambulance was in the lead, of course, so we were in all the excitement
of exploring unseen ground. The driver would urge the mules, and if the
leaders did not go down, very good--we would go on, perhaps a few yards.
If they did go down enough to show that it was dangerous that way, he
would turn them in another direction and try there. Sometimes it was
necessary almost to turn around in order to keep upon the higher
ground. In this way mules and drivers worked until four o'clock in
the afternoon, the dirty water often coming up over the floor of the
ambulance, and many times it looked as if we could not go on one step
farther without being upset in the mud and water.
But at four we reached an island, where there was a small house and a
stable for the stage relay horses, and not far beyond was another island
where Faye decided to camp for the night. It was the only thing he
could have done. He insisted upon my staying at the house, but I finally
convinced him that the proper place for me was in camp, and I went on
with him. The island was very small, and the highest point above water
could not have been over two feet. Of course everything had to be
upon it--horses, mules, wagons, drivers, Faye and I, and the two small
squirrels, and the chickens also. In addition to our own traveling
menagerie there were native inhabitants of that island--millions and
millions of mosquitoes, each one with a sharp appetite and sharp sting.
We thought that we had learned all about vicious mosquitoes while in the
South, but the Southern mosquitoes are slow and caressing in comparison
to those Montana things.
It was very warm, and the Chinaman felt sorry for the chickens shut up
in the boxes, where fierce quarrels seemed to be going on all the time.
So after he had fed them we talked it over, and decided to let them
out, as they could not possibly get away from us across the big body of
water. There were twenty large chickens in one big box, and twenty-seven
small ones that had been brought in a long box by themselves. Well,
Charlie and one of the men got the boxes down and opened them. At once
the four or five mother hens clucked and scratched and kept on clucking
until the little chicks were let out, when every one of them ran to its
own mother, and each hen strutted off with her own brood. That is the
absolute truth, but is not all. When night came the chickens went back
to their boxes to roost--all but the small ones. Those were left outside
with their mothers, and just before daylight Charlie raised a great
commotion when he put them up for the day's trip.
When we were about ready to start in the morning, a man came over from
the house and told Faye that he would pilot us through the rest of the
water, that it was very dangerous in places, where the road had been
built up, and if a narrow route was not carefully followed, a team would
go down a bank of four or five feet. He had with him just the skeleton
of a wagon--the four wheels with two or three long boards on top, drawn
by two horses. So we went down in the dirty water again, that seemed to
get deeper and deeper as we splashed on.
Now and then I could catch a glimpse of our pilot standing up on the
boards very much like a circus rider, for the wagon wheels were twisting
around over the roots of trees and stones, in a way that required
careful balancing on his part. We got along very well until about noon,
when a soldier came splashing up on a mule and told Faye that one of the
wagons had turned over! That was dreadful news and made me most anxious
about the trunks and chests, and the poor chickens, too, all of which
might be down under the water.
They got the ambulance under some trees, unfastened the mules and led
them away, leaving me alone, without even the driver. The soldier had
thoughtfully led up Pete for Faye to ride back, and the mules were
needed to assist in pulling the wagon up. Fortunately the wagon was
caught by a tree and did not go entirely over, and it so happened, too,
that it was the one loaded more with furniture than anything else, so
not much damage was done.
Our pilot had left us some time before, to hurry on and get any
passengers that might come in the stage that runs daily between Helena
and Bozeman. As soon as I began to look around a little after I was left
alone in the ambulance, I discovered that not so very far ahead was an
opening in the trees and bushes, and that a bit of beautiful dry land
could be seen. I was looking at it with longing eyes when suddenly
something came down the bank and on into the water, and not being
particularly brave, I thought of the unprotected position I was in. But
the terrible monster turned out to be our pilot, and as he came nearer,
I saw that he had something on the wagon--whether men or women or mere
bags of stuff I could not tell.
But in time he got near enough for me to see that two men were with
him--most miserable, scared tourists--both standing up on the seesawing
boards, the first with arms around the pilot's neck, and the second with
his arms around him. They were dressed very much alike, each one
having on his head an immaculate white straw hat, and over his coat
a long--very long--linen duster, and they both had on gloves! Their
trousers were pulled up as high as they could get them, giving a fine
display of white hose and low shoes. The last one was having additional
woe, for one leg of his trousers was slipping down, and of course it was
impossible for him to pull it up and keep his balance. Every turn of
the wheels the thick yellow water was being spattered on them, and I can
imagine the condition they were in by the time they reached the little
inn on the island. The pilot thought they were funny, too, for when he
passed he grinned and jerked his head back to call my attention to them.
He called to know what had happened to me, and I told him that I was a
derelict, and he would ascertain the cause farther on.
After a while--it seemed hours to me--Faye and the wagons came up, and
in time we got out of the awful mess and on dry land. It was the Fourth
of July, and we all wished for a gun or something that would make a loud
noise wherewith we could celebrate--not so much the day as our
rejoicing at getting out of the wilderness. The men were in a deplorable
condition, wet and tired, for no one had been able to sleep the night
before because of the vicious mosquitoes and the stamping of the poor
animals. So, when Faye saw one of the drivers go to a spring for water,
and was told that it was a large, fine spring, he decided to camp right
there and rest before going farther.
But rest we could not, for the mosquitoes were there also, and almost
as bad as they had been on the island, and the tents inside were covered
with them as soon as they were pitched. If there is a person who thinks
that a mosquito has no brain, and is incapable of looking ahead, that
person will soon learn his mistake if ever he comes to the Missouri
River, Montana! The heat was fierce, too, and made it impossible for us
to remain in the tents, so we were obliged, after all, to sit out under
the trees until the air had cooled at night sufficiently to chill the
mosquitoes.
The chickens were let out at every camp, and each time, without fail,
they flew up to their boxes on the wagons. Charlie would put in little
temporary roosts, that made them more comfortable, and before daylight
every morning he would gather up the little ones and the mothers and
put them in the crates for the day. He is willing and faithful, but has
queer ideas about some things. Just as I was getting in the ambulance
the second morning on the trip, I heard a crunching sound and then
another, and looking back, I saw the Chinaman on top of the mess chest
with head bent over and elbows sticking out, jumping up and down with
all his strength.
I ran over and told him not to do so, for I saw at once what was the
matter. But he said, "He velly blig--he no go downee--me flixee him,"
and up and down he went again, harder than ever. After a lengthy
argument he got down, and I showed him once more how to put the things
in so the top would shut tight. There were a good many pieces of broken
china, and these Charlie pitched over in the water with a grin that
plainly said, "You see--me flixee you!" Of course the soldiers saw it
all and laughed heartily, which made Charlie very angry, and gave him a
fine opportunity to express himself in Chinese. The rest of the trip was
pleasant, and some of the camps were delightful, but I am afraid that I
no longer possess beautiful white chickens--my Chinaman seems to be the
owner of all, big and small.
FORT SHAW, MONTANA TERRITORY, August, 1880.
THE company has been ordered to "proceed without delay" to Fort
Maginnis, a post that is just being established, and to assist another
company in building temporary log quarters. The other company will go
from Fort Missoula, and has to remain at the new post during the winter,
but Faye's company will return here in November. We were all ready to go
to the Yellowstone Park next week with General and Mrs. Bourke, but this
order from Department Headquarters upsets everything. The company was
designated there, and go it must, although Faye has been at Fort Shaw
only six weeks. He has command, of course, as Colonel Knight is East on
recruiting service, and the first lieutenant is abroad.
General and Mrs. Bourke could not understand at first why I would not
go with them to the park, just the same, but I understood perfectly, and
said at once that I would go to Maginnis with Faye. For, to go in one
direction where there is only a weekly mail, and Faye to go in another
direction where there is no mail at all, and through an Indian country,
was not to be considered one second. I was half afraid that the
commanding officer might forbid my going with Faye, as he could have
done, but he did not, and when he saw that I could not be persuaded to
change my mind, an ambulance was ordered to go with the command, so I
can have a shelter when it storms, for I shall ride Bettie on the trip.
The distance over is one hundred and fifty miles right across mountains
and valleys, and there will be only a faint trail to guide us, and I am
anticipating great delight in such a long horseback ride through a wild
country. We will have everything for our comfort, too. Faye will be in
command, and that means much, and a young contract surgeon, who has been
recently appointed, will go with us, and our Chinese cook will go also.
I have always wanted to take a trip of this kind, and know that it
will be like one long picnic, only much nicer. I never cared for real
picnics--they always have so much headache with them. We have very
little to do for the march as our camp outfit is in unusually fine
condition. After Charlie's "flixee" so much mess-chest china, Faye had
made to order a complete set for four people of white agate ware with
blue bands. We have two sets of plates, vegetable dishes, cups and
saucers, egg cups, soup plates, and a number of small pieces. The plates
and dishes, also platters, can be folded together, and consequently
require very little room, and it is a great comfort to know that these
things are unbreakable, and that we will not be left without plates for
the table when we get in the wilds, and the ware being white looks very
nice, not in the least like tin. It came yesterday, just in time.
The two squirrels I carried to the woods and turned loose. I could
not take them, and I would not leave them to be neglected perhaps. The
"Tiger" was still a tiger, and as wild and fierce as when he came from
the saw-mill, and was undoubtedly an old squirrel not to be taught new
tricks. The flying thing was wholly lacking in sense. I scattered pounds
of nuts all about and hope that the two little animals will not suffer.
The Chinaman insisted upon our taking those chickens! He goes out
every now and then and gives them big pans of food and talks to them in
Chinese with a voice and expression that makes one almost want to weep,
because the chickens have to be left behind.
We are to start on the eighteenth, and on the nineteenth we had expected
to give a dinner--a very nice one, too. I am awfully sorry that we could
not have given it before going away, for there are so many things to
do here during the winter. The doctor has had no experience whatever in
camp life, and we are wondering how he will like it. He looks like a man
who would much prefer a nice little rocking-chair in a nice little room.
CAMP NEAR JUNOT'S, IN THE JUDITH BASIN, August, 1880.
THIS will be left at a little trading store as we pass to-morrow
morning, with the hope that it will soon be taken on to Benton and
posted.
So far, the trip has been delightful, and every bit as nice as I had
anticipated. The day we left the post was more than hot--it was simply
scorching; and my whole face on the right side, ear and all, was
blistered before we got to the ferry. Just now I am going through a
process of peeling which is not beautifying, and is most painful.
Before we had come two miles it was discovered that a "washer" was
lacking on one of the wheels of a wagon, and a man was sent back on a
mule to get one. This caused a delay and made Faye cross, for it really
was inexcusable in the wagon master to send a wagon out on a trip like
this in that condition. The doctor did not start with the command, but
rode up while we were waiting for the man with the washer. The soldiers
were lounging on the ground near the wagons, talking and laughing; but
when they saw the doctor coming, there was perfect silence over there,
and I watched and listened, curious to see what effect the funny sight
would have upon them. First one sat up, then another, and some stood
up, then some one of them giggled, and that was quite enough to start
everyone of them to laughing. They were too far away for the laughing
and snickering to be disrespectful, or even to be noticed much, but I
knew why they laughed, for I laughed too.
The doctor did not present a military appearance. He is the very
smallest man I ever saw, and he was on a government horse that is known
by its great height--sixteen hands and two inches, I believe--and the
little man's stirrups were about half way down the horse's sides,
and his knees almost on the horse's back. All three of us are wearing
officers' white cork helmets, but the doctor's is not a success, being
ever so much too large for his small head, consequently it had tilted
back and found a resting place on his shoulders, covering his ears and
the upper part of his already hot face. For a whip he carried a little
switch not much longer than his gauntlets, and which would have puzzled
the big horse, if struck by it. With it all the little man could not
ride, and as his government saddle was evidently intended for a big
person, he seemed uncertain as to which was the proper place to sit--the
pommel, the middle, or the curved back. All during that first day's
march the soldiers watched him. I knew this, although we were at the
head of the column--for every time he would start his horse up a little
I could hear smothered laughter back of us.
It was late when we finally got across the Missouri on the funny
ferryboat, so we camped for the night on this side near the ferryman's
house. It was the doctor's first experience in camp, and of course he
did not know how to make himself comfortable. He suffered from the
heat, and became still warmer by rushing up and down fanning himself
and fighting mosquitoes. Then after dinner he had his horse saddled,
a soldier helped him to mount, and he rode back and forth bobbing all
sorts of ways, until Faye could stand it no longer and told him to show
some mercy to the beast that had carried him all day, and would have to
do the same for days to come.
Most of the camps have been in beautiful places--always by some clear
stream where often there was good trout fishing. In one or two of these
we found grayling, a very gamey fish, that many epicures consider more
delicate than the trout. We have a fine way of keeping fish for the
following day. As soon as possible after they have been caught we pack
them in long, wet grass and put them in a cool spot, and in this way
they will keep remarkably fresh.
We have had an abundance of game, too--all kinds of grouse and prairie
chicken, and the men killed one antelope. The Chinaman thought that
Faye shot quite too many birds, and began to look cross when they were
brought in, which annoyed me exceedingly, and I was determined to stop
it. So one evening, after Faye had taken some young chicken to the cook
tent, I said to the doctor, "Come with me," and going over to the tent
I picked up the birds and went to some trees near by, and handing the
doctor one, asked him to help me pick them, at the same time commencing
to pull the feathers out of one myself. The poor doctor looked as though
he was wishing he had made a specialty of dementia, and stood like a
goose, looking at the chicken. Charlie soon became very restless--went
inside the tent, and then came out, humming all the time. Finally he
gave in, and coming over to us, fairly snatched the birds from me and
said, "Me flixee him," and carried the whole bunch back of his tent
where we could not see him. Since that evening Charlie has been the most
delighted one in camp when Faye has brought birds in.
All the way we have had only a faint trail to follow, and often even
that could not be seen after we had crossed a stream. At such places
Faye, the doctor, and I would spread out and search for it. As Bettie
and I were always put in the middle, we were usually the finders. One
day we came up a hill that was so steep that twelve mules had to be
hitched to each wagon in order to get it up. Another day we went down
a hill where the trail was so sidling, that the men had to fasten big
ropes to the upper side of each wagon to hold it right side up as it was
drawn down. Another day we made only a few miles because of the deep-cut
banks of a narrow little stream that wound around and across a valley,
and which we had to cross eight times. At every crossing the banks had
to be sloped off and the bed built up before the wagons could be drawn
over. Watching all this has been most entertaining and the whole trip is
making a man of the doctor.
To-night we are in camp in the Judith Basin and by the Judith River--a
beautiful stream, and by far the largest we have seen on the march. And
just across the river from us is a stockade, very high and very large,
with heavy board gate that was closed as we came past. We can see the
roof of the cabin inside, and a stovepipe sticking up through it. Faye
says that he has just heard that the place is a nest of horse thieves of
the boldest and most daring type, and that one of them is coming to see
him this evening! He was told all this by the Frenchman, Junot, who has
a little trading store a mile or so from here.
Faye and the doctor rode over there as soon as the tents had been
pitched, to ascertain if the company from Missoula had passed. Our trail
and the one from the Bitter Root valley fork there. The company passed
several days ago, so we will go on in the morning; otherwise we would
have been obliged to wait for it.