_REBACKING_
[Illustration: ORIGINAL SHEEP BINDING
(1684 REBACKED)]
It often happens that books are purchased in old sheep, calf, or even
morocco bindings with the hinges so broken that the boards are either
entirely off or held only by weakened cords. Such books may be properly
entrusted to a good binder for rebinding in substantial leather. It is
sometimes preferable, however, merely to reback such books, not only in
order to preserve the old leather sides, which are generally in much
better condition than the back and often possessed of a very attractive
patina, but also to save the wear and slight trimming to which the book
would necessarily be subject in rebinding.
It is inadvisable to reback with calf or any very perishable leather. A
good quality morocco should be used. In rebacking books bound in old calf
or sheep, a smooth-grain brown morocco, such as that known to the trade as
Spanish morocco, will be found satisfactory and a fair match for the old
leather, both in color and surface texture.
The first operation in rebacking is to treat the old leather with a
softening substance, such as vaseline, to prevent the old leather from
breaking while it is being worked on. The vaseline should be rubbed well
into the covers, left on for about half an hour, and the excess then wiped
off with a soft cloth.
Vaseline is also used in the same way to assist in the preservation of old
leather bindings still in good repair. It is not entirely satisfactory, as
it soon dries out. The best composition for preserving leather is one
suggested by Mr. Douglas Cockerell, made by mixing about two ounces of
castor oil with one ounce of paraffin wax. The oil is heated and the wax,
shredded, melted into it. As the mixture cools it is stirred with a
splinter of wood. If this is thoroughly done, the resulting mixture will
be a whitish jelly. A thin coat of this is applied to the leather,
especially around the hinges, and well rubbed in with the palm of the
hand. Any excess is then wiped off and the book polished with a very soft
white rag. This mixture is best used while still hot, a little being
soaked into a woolen cloth, by means of which it is rubbed on the binding.
If leather bindings could be given this treatment about once a year their
life would be greatly increased.
After the leather of the old book to be rebacked has been treated, a cut
is made down each side of the back, through the leather close to the
broken hinge. (Fig. A.) Care should be taken not to cut through the cords
which are set into the boards at this point. If the back is furnished
with a leather label in a fair state of preservation, this label should be
cut around and lifted off to be used again on the new back.
[Illustration: Fig. A]
All the leather on the back and over the hinges, up to the cut above
mentioned, should then be lifted or scraped off. As a majority of old
books are bound with the leather glued directly to the lining of the back,
a certain amount of the old glue, according to its condition, scraped
smooth, should be left on the lining.
While old calf backs are generally so dry that they must be scraped off in
pieces, it is sometimes possible, when the back is of more solid leather,
to remove the old back; with the label and gilding, in one piece. If this
can be done, the inside of the old back should be scraped and this back
pasted on again over the new leather back. This is, of course, preferable,
as by this means more of the characteristics of the old cover are
preserved.
[Illustration: Fig. B]
When the back is clear of leather, a small cut about half an inch long is
made at the top and bottom of each side, at the ends of, and at right
angles to, the first cut; from the ends of the short cuts, the leather is
again cut at right angles over the top and bottom edges of the boards.
(Fig. B.) As these points, near the top and bottom of the inside hinges,
the end-papers pasted on the inside of the boards are lifted for a short
distance so that all the old leather under them can be removed.
The head-bands should then be examined to see that they are firmly in
place and any missing band replaced, the new band being simply glued to
the back lining.
[Illustration: Fig. C]
A sharp, thin knife is then run under the leather of the sides, following
the first long cut, loosening this leather from the boards for about half
an inch back from the cut, this distance equalling the short cuts at top
and bottom. (Fig. C.)
The book is now ready for the new back. This is cut from the leather to be
used, in width equal to the distance over the back and hinges plus a
trifle less than half an inch on each side, and in height to project half
an inch beyond the top and bottom of the book.
This leather is then pared thin on the inside for about half an inch all
around the edge. Paring requires careful work and a sharp knife, otherwise
the piece may not be pared thin enough to set smoothly, or may be cut
through and ruined.
[Illustration: Fig. D]
The back lining of the book itself, and the inside of the new back, are
then given a medium thin coat of paste, and the leather set evenly in
place. The side edges of the back are slipped under the leather of the
sides where this leather was loosened from the boards following the
first, long cut, and pasted directly on the boards. (Fig. D.) By this time
the paste on the top and bottom ends of the back will be dry. These are
given another coat of paste, one at a time, and turned under upon
themselves, starting in the middle, the corners being carried over the
edges of the boards and securely pasted down inside where the end papers
have been pushed back. The top, beyond the boards, is tucked in behind the
head-band. When the top and bottom of the back have been treated in this
way, they are then flattened with a folder and the edges of the hinges are
bent in to form the head-cap finish observable on almost any book bound by
hand in leather. (Fig. E.) The tops of the head-bands may require a slight
touch of paste so that the leather turned over upon them will stay in
place.
[Illustration: Fig. E]
The inside end papers, where they were lifted at the top and bottom near
hinges, are then pasted down over the corners of the new back which are
folded in at these points, and the leather lifted from the sides is pasted
down over the side edges of the new back where these are pasted directly
on the boards. New inside hinges of paper or cloth may be added, if
required; but if these are to go in they are best set in place before the
new back is pasted on.
The new back being in place, it might be given a certain amount of finish.
If the book is sewn on outside cords, these will show as raised bands on
the back, and the new leather is, of course, moulded over these when it is
first set in place. In such a case, a satisfactory, plain finish can be
obtained by moulding these bands distinctly. This is done by running the
edge of the folder in the angle at each side of each band with a see-saw
motion. Experiment will show how this may give a smooth, polished line on
each side of the bands if it is thoroughly done with fair pressure while
the leather is still moist from the paste on the inside. Before attempting
any such operations, however, the outside of the new back must be washed
entirely free from any spots of paste.
An additional "blind" line may be made at top and bottom across the back,
by bending over the back a straight piece of vellum to serve as a guide to
the folder. A smooth back without bands may be finished with a series of
double or single lines put on in this manner, care being taken that the
line of the vellum guide is at right angles to the side edges of the back.
The back of the old label, if this is to be used again, is then scraped
and the label pasted on in its proper place between bands; or a new label,
properly lettered in gilt, may be ordered from a binder.
The entire work, when almost dry, should be pressed over with a hot
flat-iron to press down any irregularities, the edges of the cut leather
on the sides, and the top and bottom finish over head-bands. The iron must
be well warmed rather than hot. If too hot, it will lift the surface of
the leather. The book should then be placed under pressure to dry.
For the operation of rebacking one needs only a sharp, thin knife, a ruler
or straight edge, a bone folder and a small flat-iron in the way of tools.
A small press is desirable, but not necessary. The folder, which may be
purchased from a dealer in bookbinders' supplies, will be furnished with
square ends; one of these ends should be sawed off on an angle and
smoothed with a file to give a pointed end, which will be found very
useful. (Fig. F.) The flat-iron should be wedge-shaped, about four inches
long, with straight, rounded edges. [Fig. G.] Irons of this kind may be
found in toy shops, and will be found extremely useful and easy to handle
in all small repair operations.
[Illustration: Fig. F]
[Illustration: Fig. G]
To the above tools may be added, if desired, one or two small tooling
irons of simple design for blind tooling. Such irons are used just hot
enough to hiss very slightly when touched with a wet cloth, and are
pressed firmly and evenly on the leather for two or three seconds to leave
a good impression.
Books bound in boards, with cloth or paper backs, may be rebacked with
cloth, parchment, or even with heavy paper in facsimile of the original
back. In the latter case, it is advisable to line the back with a strip of
Japan vellum, which should extend over upon the boards under the new paper
back. Parchment is often satisfactory and requires no paring, but must be
handled carefully when damp from paste, or it will stretch out of shape.