[Sidenote: 4. Round Tower at Glendalough.]

Christianity was first preached in Britain while the Romans were

there. It was carried by missionaries even beyond the Roman frontiers

into Ireland, and afterwards into Scotland. When the Romans left the

country, after ruling there for 400 years, there came over the seas

the forefathers of the English--a race of wild, bold seamen. They

were not Christians; but at first they did not conquer either Ireland

or Scotland, and the Christian religion continued among the ancient

peoples of those countries. Some of the most ancient of the Irish and

Scottish monuments relate to the time when the English were newly

come into England. This round tower, for instance, is probably a

monument of that time. It is in a very beautiful mountainous portion

of Ireland, and is known as the Round Tower of Glendalough.

[Sidenote: 5. Iona Cathedral.]

Crossing the sea to Scotland, we come to the islet of Iona, placed

out in the Western ocean beyond the coast of the mainland of

Scotland. Here are the ruins of a Cathedral of great antiquity. At

Iona there ruled the Lord of the Isles, who was King over the pirates

from the North. They seized all the Western isles of Scotland and

held them until about six hundred years ago, when they were defeated

at sea, and there was peace on the ocean off Britain.

[Sidenote: 6. King Alfred’s Statue at Winchester.]

Let us now return to England--to the England which had been conquered

by the Romans and abandoned by them, and had been conquered afresh

by the tribes of the English from over the water. Let us pass on

through some dark centuries, as they are called, because history has

little to tell of them, until we come to the first great Englishman,

King Alfred the Great, from whom our present King-Emperor, Edward the

Seventh, is descended. King Alfred lived a thousand years ago, and is

called Great because he united the tribes of the English, and made

the Kingdom of England. Here is the monument erected in his city of

Winchester on the thousandth anniversary of his death.

[Sidenote: 7. Bradford-on-Avon Church.]

Some generations before King Alfred, Christian missionaries came

again to the land of England and slowly converted the English to

Christianity--first one tribe and then another. Here is, perhaps,

the most ancient of the Christian churches of England--it is at

Bradford-on-Avon. The missionaries came from Rome, and taught the

English to build in stone, with round tops to the windows, as the

Romans built.

We have now mentioned five ages of English history. First, were the

Ancient Britons; second, the Roman conquerors; third, the English

conquerors; fourth, the Christian Missionaries; and fifth, was King

Alfred. A sixth age had to elapse before the England which we know

was made. In this a new race of fierce seamen came over the water,

who were called Normans, or North men. One branch of them were the

Pirates just now mentioned at Iona. Another branch conquered the

southern part of Britain, the part now called England, and added

one more strain of blood to the people who have ever since lived

in Britain and sailed the ocean. The Normans completed the work of

King Alfred, and the English, being now united, have not since been

conquered from across the water. You see that it was by no chance

that the people of Britain became the race of sea-fighters and of

rulers beyond the sea such as they are now known in all parts of the

world.

[Sidenote: 8. Iffley.]

[Sidenote: 9. Durham Cathedral.]

All this time the English were advancing in civilisation. Though

they fought among themselves, though they obeyed their rulers with

difficulty, already they venerated the churches of their Christian

religion. While they could not put their wealth into beautiful

houses, which might be pillaged, yet they were able to build

magnificent churches, which all men respected, and these churches

are the most splendid monuments they have left to us. Before they

crossed to Britain the Normans stayed for a time on the mainland of

Europe and learned there a new style of building. Here is the Norman

church of Iffley. You still notice the rounded Roman arches, but

the building is clearly of a more finished type than the church of

Bradford-on-Avon, which we saw just now. Next is the great cathedral

at Durham, also Norman work, but with some later building added, for

in each generation men loved to enlarge and enrich the chief temple

of their town or district.

[Sidenote: 10. Canterbury Cathedral.]

We now come to a Cathedral of later date. It is that of Canterbury.

Here, as you see, the windows have pointed tops to them, for they

are built in the Gothic style, which succeeded the Roman style of

the Normans. Canterbury Cathedral is a very large church. Its three

great towers contain bells which call the people to worship. This is

the cathedral of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is placed where

the missionary Augustine first taught the Christian religion to the

English, who had lately crossed the seas into Britain.

[Sidenote: 11. Salisbury--West Front.]

Here is the west front of Salisbury Cathedral. You see clearly that

we are coming into civilized times, for the men who built this

cathedral could work in stone with delicate skill. They no longer

employed great massive columns and rows of narrow, round headed

windows. All this front has pointed arches, and in many of them you

have sculptured images of the good men of past times.

[Sidenote: 12. Wells Cathedral.]

[Sidenote: 13. Wells--West Front.]

This is Wells Cathedral, surrounded by beautiful trees and gardens.

And here is the front of the same cathedral, with still more delicate

and elaborate work. Do you realise the love which the builders put

into each little piece of what they did?

[Sidenote: 14. Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford--Interior.]

And here lastly is the interior of Oxford Cathedral. It is very

interesting, because upon arches of Norman date, roughly and

massively hewn, you have a vaulted roof of the latest and most

delicate Gothic or pointed style. In this respect the cathedrals

of England are like everything else that is English. In each age

Englishmen accept with veneration what their forefathers hand down to

them, and adapt it with as little change as possible to the needs of

their own time. It is only so that a mighty and lasting Empire can be

founded.

In the country parts of England, where no town requires a large

building for worship, here and there a church has fallen, in times

of past strife, into decay. But the people of the present take care

of these ruins, and regard them with veneration, for they are often

very beautiful, and preserve a record of the past most faithfully,

because there has been no need to adapt them to modern requirements.

[Sidenote: 15. Glastonbury.]

[Sidenote: 16. Netley.]

Here, for instance, is the ruin of Glastonbury Abbey, and here that

of Netley Abbey. In both, as you see, the roof has fallen in, but you

can imagine what kind of church there must have been formerly. With

these exceptions the buildings in England are maintained in perfect

order, for the cool, moist climate requires that, for comfort sake,

the weather should be kept out.

While the cathedrals were built without defence, and beautiful

churches were often set in the green country and yet were not

attacked even in wild ages, the houses of the great men of the land

were formerly small fortresses or castles. These castles still stand

in different parts of the country, having in some cases been adapted

to modern requirements; but for the most part they have become ruins,

for it was easier to build again from the foundations. Moreover, many

of them were broken in warfare.

[Sidenote: 17. Stirling Castle.]

[Sidenote: 18. Alnwick Castle.]

Here is Stirling Castle, set high on a rock, in Scotland; and here

is Alnwick Castle, built near the frontier between England and

Scotland. For centuries there was much fighting between the English

and the Scots, though now, as you know, they have joined together in

friendship, and are subjects of one King.

[Sidenote: 19. Windsor Castle.]

Here is the greatest of all the Castles. It is Windsor Castle--the

castle of the King of England. It stands on a hill beside the River

Thames, higher up the river than London. You can see the Round Tower

in the centre of it. In all the old castles there was a strong refuge

in the centre for final defence in case a besieger should effect an

entry into the outworks, and this most important part of the castle

was called the “keep.” At Windsor the Round Tower was the keep. Here

to the right we have the church of the castle, called St. George’s

Chapel. In the old times there lived within such a castle as this of

the King of England almost a whole town of his servants. You will

remember from the second lecture that the Parliament and the Judges

used to sit in the King’s Palace at Westminster. In modern times

people think it healthier and more comfortable not to be crowded.

[Sidenote: 20. Windsor Round Tower.]

Now we go inside the castle and stand beside the Round Tower. You see

from the slightly pointed heads of the windows that the Tower belongs

to a later time than that of the Normans, who built with round-headed

windows.

[Sidenote: 21. Windsor from Home Park.]

Here is one more view of Windsor Castle. The Round Tower is in the

background to the right, for this front of the building is new, and

is in the nature of a palace rather than a castle. These wooded

slopes are the beginning of the beautiful park which lies round the

castle. Here are the rooms in which used to live Queen Victoria, our

Empress, the mother of King Edward.

Western history is divided into three periods which are generally

known as Antiquity, the Middle Ages, and the Modern Times. The last

of these periods began about four centuries ago. The Middle Ages

included about a thousand years. The Romans belonged to Antiquity,

but King Alfred is of the Middle Ages, and so are most of the castles

and cathedrals, except St. Paul’s Cathedral, which was built about

two hundred years ago, when the earlier cathedral of London had been

destroyed by fire.

[Sidenote: 22. Hatfield.]

It took the whole of the Middle Ages--a thousand years--to establish

law and justice and order in England, a fact which shows with what

care order should be treasured, once it has been attained. But at

last men began to feel that even their rulers, who in a rough age are

liable to attack, might leave their houses unfortified, and place

them in the midst of pleasant gardens. This was the beginning of

Modern Times. Here is Hatfield House, built for one of England’s

most famous statesmen, the Lord Burleigh, who three hundred years

ago, served one of her greatest monarchs, Queen Elizabeth. A few

years ago Hatfield was the home of another British statesman, Lord

Salisbury, who was a descendant of Lord Burleigh, and served a still

greater monarch--Queen Victoria. You see how different from a castle

is the appearance of this house. It has square broad windows, giving

a flood of light within, even to the ground floor; for the men who

built it had no longer to fear that they would be attacked by arrows

and by guns through their windows, and therefore they could afford

to let in the light of the sun, which is loved in this cool Northern

land.

But you must not think that all of England’s greatness has been made

by her rich and powerful men. It is the glory of England that some

of the most valuable things done for her have been done by poor men.

You remember from the second Lecture that in Westminster Abbey, not

only was our King-Emperor crowned, with the dignitaries of the empire

round him, but also that there is a space called the Poets’ Corner,

where are the tombs and monuments of some of the chief writers who

have inspired the English with ideals of order and justice and

freedom. These poets were mostly poor men--some of them very poor.

[Sidenote: 23. Stratford-on-Avon.]

Here in the town of Stratford-on-Avon, in the centre of England,

is the humble cottage, still preserved with care, in which at

the time when the splendid house of Hatfield was built for Lord

Burleigh, there was born and lived the greatest of all English

writers, Shakespeare. To-day, in every town in which the English live

throughout the world there are copies of at least two books, the holy

book of the English--the Christian Bible--and the book full of human

wisdom, which was written by Shakespeare.

[Sidenote: 24. Blenheim.]

In London, in the Cathedral of St. Paul, we saw the monuments over

the tombs of Nelson and Wellington, the sailor and the soldier who

won the victories of Trafalgar and Waterloo. Two hundred years ago,

that is to say a hundred years before Nelson and Wellington, there

lived another great general, who commanded the armies of England

and won victories in the days of Queen Anne. He was the Duke of

Marlborough, and this is the house, Blenheim Palace, which England

built for him in gratitude for the victories he had won. In our own

times, Queen Victoria and King Edward have given rewards to Lord

Roberts and Lord Kitchener, whose names and deeds you know. Blenheim,

as you see, is a modern palace, not a fortified castle of the Middle

Ages. But it is built in the ancient style, for there was law and

order in the Empire of the Romans, and they also could therefore

build spaciously and openly.

[Sidenote: 25. Eton--from Playing Fields.]

[Sidenote: 26. Eton--from the River.]

[Sidenote: 27. Eton--4th June.]

Now there is one kind of old building in the land of England which

we have not yet mentioned, though it is very interesting and very

important. The youth of the English race, and especially that part

of it which in after years is to work for Government at Home, in

India, and in the Colonies, is carefully brought up in the midst

of monuments of the past. For Englishmen wish that the citizens of

the British Empire should not think too greatly each of himself,

but should think greatly of the State which they serve. Therefore

they bring up their youths to know that among their ancestors there

were also men who did good work for the Nation. The highest thing

an Englishman can do is to play his part well in his generation by

adding a little to the great scheme of order and freedom which we

call the British Empire. This is the ancient building of Eton, the

chief of the public schools of Britain. It was founded by one of the

Kings of England under the shadow of Windsor Castle. Here is another

view of it, taken from the Thames, which flows between Windsor and

Eton. And here are the boys amusing themselves in boats on their

annual festival-day. The view, as you see, contains the Round Tower

of Windsor Castle.

[Sidenote: 28. Oxford--from Magdalen Tower.]

[Sidenote: 29. Oxford--High Street.]

[Sidenote: 30. Oxford--Wadham Garden.]

When the boys have grown to be young men, they go from school

to the Universities. There are two ancient Universities in

England, well-known to not a few students from India, Oxford and

Cambridge, each adorned with beautiful buildings and gardens, and

full of memories of the great men of the past. There are also

ancient Universities in Scotland and Ireland, and there are new

Universities in England such as the London University. But the

historic Universities of Britain are Oxford and Cambridge. Here is

the University of Oxford as viewed from the tower of one of its

colleges. We see that it is a city filled with monuments and splendid

buildings. This is the High Street in Oxford, with the Church of the

University and some of the Palaces called Colleges, within which

the young men live, together with some of the Professors who teach

them. There are twenty-one of these colleges in Oxford, each with

200 or 300 students living within. Here is the garden of one of the

colleges, where men may walk and think.

[Sidenote: 31. Cambridge--King’s.]

[Sidenote: 32. Cambridge--King’s Chapel--Interior.]

[Sidenote: 33. Cambridge--Clare Bridge.]

Let us visit for a moment the sister University of Cambridge. This is

the Church in the college that is called King’s College, for it was

founded by one of the ancestors of King Edward. Here is the interior

of that church. You see how delicately the great span of the vault

is built. This church was erected at the close of the Middle Ages,

when men no longer put up fortresses for houses. Therefore they had

learned to build lightly, and to plan arches and windows with daring

skill. Next is a scene in the gardens of the Cambridge colleges, with

a bridge spanning the little River Cam.

[Sidenote: 34. Oxford--Commemoration Procession, with Prince of

Wales.]

[Sidenote: 35. Oxford--Merton College Library.]

We will return for a moment to Oxford and see something of the

working of the Universities. Here is a solemn procession of the

dignitaries of the University of Oxford. This is the President of the

University, called the Vice-Chancellor, and beside him, as a member

of the University, is the Prince of Wales, the son of the King. In

front of them are two Bedels carrying the maces of state. Next we

have the interior of one of the many libraries of the University. It

is the library of Merton College. The first duty of the University

is to treasure and increase knowledge. The second is to impart that

knowledge, so that it may be used for the good of mankind. But there

is also a third, which, for an imperial nation, is very important.

How comes it that young Englishmen, at home and in all lands of

the earth, have learned to work together? In part, no doubt, it is

because the schools have taught them not to think too highly each of

himself. In part, also, it is because they have learnt from books,

and are intelligent. But in part it is due to the games which they

play at school and at the University. These games not only develop

the body and give decision to the character, but they also teach

each man to sacrifice himself for the common cause. If eight men

row a boat in a race, no one can win victory for himself alone, but

submitting his will, must strive that his boat may win against the

boat which is chasing it.

[Sidenote: 36. Oxford Boats--The Start.]

[Sidenote: 37. The same--The Race.]

[Sidenote: 38. The same--A “Bump”.]

[Sidenote: 39. The same--After the Race.]

Let us look for a moment at two or three scenes in these contests at

Oxford, where men learn to work together, to keep their tempers, to

bear defeat, and to try again. The subject is one of great interest

to us here in India, for our young men now play the same games as the

English. Here is the start for the race. The boats are arranged in

procession at equal distances. All start together at the firing of a

pistol. Each tries to overtake and touch the boat in front of it. A

boat which succeeds in the effort starts the next day in the place

ahead of the boat which it has overtaken. Thus at the end of many

days a boat may work its way up to the head of the procession. But

a man who rowed in that boat would not say that he won the race--he

would only claim to have rowed along with other good men in the

victorious boat. Thus all men will know that he has not only learnt

to strive hard, but also to obey. Here is the race in progress, and

here is a “bump”; the second boat has caught the first, and the man

who steers the first boat is good-temperedly acknowledging defeat by

holding up his arm. Here lastly are the boats resting at the close of

the race.

[Sidenote: 40. A Football Match--England v. Scotland.]

You must not think, however, that these games are confined to the

Public Schools and the Universities. The millions of people who never

go to either play the same games and learn the same lessons from

them. Here you will recognize a football match. It is being played

between England and Scotland, each country having chosen the best

team available from among its countrymen. In this game you can see at

once that a man would be unpopular who played selfishly for his own

distinction and not for the victory of his team.

[Sidenote: 41. A Cricket Match--England v. Australia.]

Football is in England a winter game, for it requires considerable

activity. Cricket is more especially the national game, and it is

a game which, as you know, the English carry with them into every

corner of the globe, including the tropics. The great Colony of

Australia is not everywhere tropical, but as a whole it is much

warmer than the home country. Cricket is played there with much zest.

Now, because Australia is in the south and Britain in the north,

their seasons are reversed. Therefore, during the Australian winter

a cricket eleven is often sent to England, where it arrives during

the northern summer. This is a cricket match, played before many

spectators between England and Australia.

[Sidenote: 42. Oxford and Cambridge Athletics--The Hurdles.]

[Sidenote: 43. Finish for the Half Mile.]

There are many other athletic contests in which strength and skill

are matched. Here, for instance, is a race between representatives

of the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Even in this contest,

where one man only can win, the English do not say simply that he

won the race, but they say that he won it for Oxford or Cambridge,

as the case may be. Part of the glory is not his, it belongs to the

University which trained him. Here is the finish of another race.

[Sidenote: 44. Ladies Playing Hockey.]

Lastly, we must not forget that half the nation consists of women.

The English like their women to play games, and to learn lessons of

courage and self-control which shall make them brave and helpful

wives in foreign countries or on the borders of the Empire. These

ladies are playing the game of hockey. Probably, they are students

at one of the Universities, for it is felt that women require

intelligence no less than men, if they are to be the wise mothers of

a race of rulers.

LECTURE V.

COUNTRY LIFE AND THE SMALLER TOWNS.

In the last Lecture we saw how the history of England, and the

monuments which have come from it, surround the schools and the

universities, and influence the upbringing of the men whom we know

here in India as officers of the Army and of the Navy, as Civil

Servants, and as merchants. Let us now, however, describe the early

surroundings of those whom we know chiefly as the rank and file of

the Army and as the sailors of the Navy.

Let us consider the homes of the people outside the Metropolis--the

small towns scattered over the whole land, and the hundreds of little

villages, the farms, and the cottages in the green countrysides and

by the shores of the sea.

[Sidenote: 1. View of Chipping Campden.]

Here is the little town of Chipping Campden, in the West of England,

set in a valley amid low hills and shaded by green trees, with its

church tower rising in the centre. Do you see the sloping roofs of

the houses which speak of a rainy climate, and the chimneys rising

from their ridges, telling of the cold winters and of blazing fires

round which in the long evenings the families gather?

[Sidenote: 2. Street in Chipping Campden.]

This is a street in the same little town of Chipping Campden. Is

it not peaceful and silent? How different the lives of the people

brought up here from those who live in the sound of the unending

traffic of London!

[Sidenote: 3. A Business Street.]

Here is another street in a country town, with shops where food and

clothing are sold. There is an inn, too, which bears the sign of a

Cock. The use of signs instead of names to distinguish houses is

an old custom which has survived from the times when men could not

read. See the school children gathered in the street watching the

photographer who is taking the picture.

[Sidenote: 4. A Residential Street.]

Next we go into a residential street, where are the houses of the

doctors and the lawyers of the little town. Some of the shopkeepers

also dwell here, for when they can afford it they like to withdraw

in the evening from their shops. These people are known in England

as the middle classes, for they are neither very rich nor very poor.

From among their children have come many who have helped to make

England what she is.

[Sidenote: 5. Town Church and Town Hall.]

Seven Lectures on the United Kingdom for use in India Reissued for use in the United Kingdom · 第 4 / 8 段