was a portion of the coast not covered by the charter of the Company,
whose assistance they had sought; they thereupon declared their
intention to "plant this colony for the glory of God and the advancement
of the Christian Faith." The spot where they landed they named Plymouth
Rock.
Plymouth Hoe, with a magnificent view down Plymouth Sound and its
associations with Drake's game of bowls during the approach of the
Spanish Armada, is one of the chief glories of Plymouth. The view
includes Mount Edgcumbe Castle, the breakwater built across the mouth of
the harbour and Drake's Island. The Hamoaze--the estuary of the
Tamar--is always full of the activity of England's great naval port.
[Illustration: THE BARBICAN AT PLYMOUTH.
From this quay the _Mayflower_ finally left England for her long voyage
across the Atlantic.]
DURHAM AND ITS CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=--Durham.
=Distance from London.=--256 miles.
=Average Time.=--6-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 35s. 10d. ... 21s. 2d.
Return 71s. 8d. ... 42s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Royal County Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
For the magnificent position it occupies, Durham Cathedral is without a
rival in this country; and even if one includes the Continent, the
cathedral of Albi in France will alone bear comparison in respect to its
position. Overlooking the Wear from a considerable height appear the two
massive western towers and the magnificent central tower of the
cathedral, and when these and the masses of foliage beneath them are
reflected on the calm surface of the river, the scene is one of rare and
astonishing beauty.
The origin of the cathedral and city of Durham may be directly traced to
the desire on the part of Bishop Eardulph and his monks to erect some
building in which to place the coffin containing the body of St.
Cuthbert. They had travelled with their sacred charge for seven years,
and at the end of that time, in 997, having reached the rocky plateau
overlooking the river Wear, they decided to build a chapel there. Bishop
Aldhun went further, and by 999 he had finished a large building known
as the "White Church." Of this, however, there are no authentic remains;
for in 1081, William of St. Carileph had been appointed bishop, and
after he had remained in exile in Normandy for some years he returned to
Durham fired with the desire to build a cathedral on the lines of some
of the great structures then appearing in France. In 1093, therefore,
the foundations of the new church were laid, and the present building
from that day forward began to appear. Only the walls of the choir, part
of the transepts, and the tower arches had been constructed at the time
of Carileph's death in 1096, but the work went on under Ralph Flambard,
and when he too was gathered to his fathers, the aisles were finished
and the nave also, excepting its roof. Flambard also saw the two western
towers finished as high as the roof of the nave. The beautiful
transitional Norman Galilee Chapel at the west end was built prior to
1195 by Hugh Pudsey. This narrowly escaped destruction at the hands of
Wyatt, who in 1796 pulled down the splendid Norman chapter-house.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
DURHAM CATHEDRAL.
It has the finest situation of any English cathedral.]
RABY CASTLE, DURHAM
=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=--Durham. (Raby Castle is close to the town of
Staindrop.)
=Distance from London.=--256 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 5-3/4 to 7-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 35s. 10d. ... 21s. 2d.
Return 71s. 8d. ... 42s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--At Durham--"Rose and Crown
Hotel," "Royal County Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
Raby Castle, the ancestral home of the Nevilles and an almost perfect
specimen of a fourteenth-century castle, is situated close to the little
town of Staindrop in the county of Durham. Canute, the Danish king, is
said to have had a house in Staindrop; and it was he who presented Raby
Castle to the shrine of St. Cuthbert. The castle passed from the
possession of the monks in 1131, when they granted it to Dolphin, who
belonged to the royal family of Northumberland, for the yearly rental of
£4. Dominus de Raby, a descendant of Dolphin, married Isabel Neville,
the heiress of the Saxon house of Balmer, and their son, Geoffrey, took
the surname of Neville. The present castle was built by John, Lord
Neville, about the year 1379, when he had permission to fortify.
There is very little history attaching to the fortress, for, with the
exception of two insignificant attacks during the Civil War, it
sustained no sieges. It belonged to the Nevilles until 1570, when
Charles Neville, Earl of Westmorland, lost the castle, together with all
his estates, for the share which he took in the rising in the North for
the restoration of the Roman Catholic religion in England. Not being
situated on high ground, the chief defence of Raby Castle, apart from
the strength of its walls, must have been the abundance of water which
completely surrounded it.
The chapel is the oldest portion; but the castle was almost entirely
built in one man's lifetime, and bears scarcely any traces of earlier or
later work. The interior, however, has been much altered by modern
architects, who have obliterated a great portion of John Neville's work.
The Baron's Hall used to be a fine room, with beautiful windows, an oak
roof, and a stone music-gallery. The kitchen, which occupies the whole
interior of a large tower, is one of the most interesting and perfect
features of the castle, though it has no longer the original fireplaces.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
RABY CASTLE.
Built by John, Lord Neville, about the year 1379.]
SNOWDON
=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Llanberis (5 miles distant). This is the easiest
of the ascents by a well-marked path.
=Distance from London.=--257 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 6-1/2 to 8 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 41s. 6d. 23s. 7d. 21s. 4-1/2d.
Return 74s. 9d. 40s. 9d. 37s. 0d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Royal Victoria Hotel," Llanberis.
"Castle Hotel," "Snowdon Valley," "Dolbadarn," "Padarn
Villa." Snowdon Summit Hotel is 3560 feet above the sea.
Snowdon is the name not only of the highest mountain in Wales, but it is
itself a mountain range, broken up by valleys and river courses into
four mountain groups of which Moel-y-Wyddfa is the central and highest
one. The best spot from which a good view of the whole group can be seen
is Capel Curig. The Llanberis ascent to Snowdon is the easiest, but not
so interesting as the other routes. From Capel Curig the ascent is the
steepest and finest, and is unsurpassed for grandeur of scenery. In
respect of foreground Snowdon is not so fine as Cader Idris, and the
mountains of Scotland and the English lake district. There is an absence
of rich valley scenery in the mid-distance, which the Scottish mountains
possess and which so adds to the beauty of the Cumberland and
Westmorland mountains. But the glory of Snowdon is that it commands such
an extended view of other mountain peaks and ridges. It well repays the
holiday-maker to spend a night on the summit of Snowdon to see the grand
panorama which gradually unfolds itself as the sunrise dispels the
mist--sea, lakes, and mountain ridges standing out by degrees in the
clear morning light. Naturally the view is dependent on atmospheric
conditions for its extent. On a clear day one sees the coast-line from
Rhyl to the furthest extremity of Cardigan Bay, also the southern part
of the Menai Straits, nearly all the Isle of Anglesey, and part of the
Tubular Bridge.
One of the mountain lakes is Llyn Llydaw, a fine sheet of water 1500
feet above the sea, and surrounded except on one side by the precipitous
arms of Snowdon, and there are also the Capel Curig lakes. Snowdon is
3571 feet in height. All the ascents are free from danger. From
Llanberis there is a pony-track all the way to the top, but it is not
the most interesting of the various routes. The new mountain railway
follows fairly closely the pathway leading from Llanberis.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
SNOWDON.
It is 3571 feet to the summit.]
HARLECH CASTLE
=How to get there.=--L. and N.W. Railway from Euston.
=Nearest Station.=--Harlech.
=Distance from London.=--259 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 8-1/4 and 12-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 37s. 10d. 24s. 0d. 20s. 4d.
Return 70s. 3d. 43s. 10d. ...
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Castle Hotel," "Lion," "Belle
Vue," "Cambrian" (Temperance), etc.
Harlech Castle is about 10 miles from the pleasant town of Barmouth in
North Wales. The name implies "on the rock," and every year it is a
great attraction to the many visitors to Wales, because of the fine
mountain and sea view obtained from this commanding height. Like many
other Welsh castles it owes its origin to Edward I. after his conquest
of Wales. Owen Glyndwr or Glendower, a Welsh prince and a descendant of
Llewelyn, had rebelled against Henry IV. in consequence of repeated
injustice done to him by Lord Grey de Ruthin, who had appropriated his
estates. As Owen could obtain no redress from the king he took his cause
into his own hands, and in 1404 seized the important stronghold of
Harlech Castle. Four years later it was retaken by the royal forces. At
first Owen Glendower was successful, but eventually he had to flee to
the mountains. During the Wars of the Roses, when the Duke of York
defeated Henry VI., Queen Margaret fled to Harlech Castle, but after a
lengthened siege in 1468, the defenders had to yield to the victorious
forces of the "White Rose." It is said that this siege gave rise to the
favourite Welsh air known as the "March of the Men of Harlech." The
castle stands high, is square, with a round tower at each corner, and
gives one the impression of massive proportions and enormous strength.
The main entrance to the inner ward is between two huge round towers,
and the passage was defended at one end by two, and at the inner
extremity by a third, portcullis. The ascent to the top of the walls is
made by a stair from the courtyard. There is a well-protected walk on
the battlements. The view from the castle is magnificent and extensive,
and should the day be fine it is one vast panorama of mountain, sea, and
coast-line--a sight not easily forgotten. Across the bay, 7 miles off,
can be seen the equally ancient castle of Criccieth, although its ruins
cannot compare to Harlech. On the other side is a glorious range of
heights culminating in Snowdon, while to the left are the graceful
Rivals, mountain heights which should not be missed.
[Illustration: HARLECH CASTLE.]
GRASMERE AND RYDAL MOUNT
THE HOMES OF WILLIAM WORDSWORTH
=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Ambleside (4 miles from Grasmere).
=Distance from London.=--260 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 6 to 8 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 39s. 0d. 25s. 2d. 23s.
Return 76s. 4d. 49s. 4d. 45s.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Prince of Wales Hotel," on lake,
1/2 mile from village. "Rothay Hotel," near church. "Red Lion
Hotel," "Mossgrove" (Temperance), "Grasmere Hotel" (Temperance),
all in village. No inn at Rydal village.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
Grasmere is the name of a village and lake in Westmorland, about 3 miles
north-west of Ambleside. The lovely village, beautifully situated at the
head of the lake, has an old church containing the grave of Wordsworth.
Wordsworth's cottage (a charge of 6d. is made for admission) is only
half a mile from the church. It is restored, as far as possible, to its
condition in Wordsworth's day, and contains a number of relics of the
poet's family. The lake, a mile in length, and surrounded by mountains,
forms one of the most beautiful scenes in England. Wordsworth afterwards
removed to Rydal Mount (two or three miles off), which place remains
especially associated with his memory. It is a somewhat remarkable fact
that this quiet and thoughtful interpreter of nature was in the early
years of his life, while going on a pedestrian tour through France,
thrust into the early fervours of its great Revolution. Wordsworth's
sympathy with the aims of the Gironde party might have cost him his
life, for many of his friends in Paris suffered death, but happily
circumstances caused him to return to England. It was his noble sister
Dorothy, his constant and devoted companion, who met him on his return
from Paris, broken-hearted, and induced him to return to nature.
Wordsworth's poetry was not appreciated for a considerable time, but he
calmly wrote on, undismayed by the ridicule poured forth on the "Lake
School of Poets," which included Coleridge and Southey, and gradually
his calm and dignified descriptions of nature asserted their rightful
influence. After publishing his greatest poem, _The Excursion_, the tide
of generous appreciation set in. In 1843, Wordsworth was made Poet
Laureate. His pure and fervent poetry was a protest against the diseased
sentimentality of the age.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
RYDAL WATER.]
THE LAKE DISTRICT
=How to get there.=--Train to Ambleside from Euston. London and
N.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Ambleside (for visiting Coniston, Grasmere, Hawkshead,
Patterdale, and Windermere).
=Distance from London.=--260 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 6 to 8 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 39s. 0d. 25s. 2d. 23s. 0d.
Return 76s. 4d. 49s. 4d. 45s. 0d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--At Ambleside--"Queen's Hotel,"
"White Lion Hotel," "Royal Oak Inn," "Robinson's Temperance
Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=--Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
Ambleside, situated in the very centre of the Lake District, is by many
regarded as the most tempting spot in the whole region.
It is a long and straggling town of about 2000 inhabitants. The old
church stands up the hill, in the more picturesque part of the town. The
old ceremony of "rush-bearing," dating from the time of Gregory IV., is
still, in a modified form, an annual function in Ambleside, which, with
one or two Westmorland villages, can claim the custom as unique.
About a mile south from Ambleside is the northern extremity of Lake
Windermere, 10-1/2 miles long, and varying in breadth from a mile in the
widest part to a few hundred yards in the narrowest. The surrounding
scenery is magnificent, of a soft and graceful beauty, which forms a
wonderful contrast to the wild and sublime grandeur of other parts of
the Lake District. There are a number of beautiful islands in the lake,
which is very plentifully stocked with fish.
The little lake at Grasmere, a village to the north of Ambleside, is one
of the gems of the Lakeland scenery; indeed, Grasmere is an excellent
centre from which to visit some of the points of interest in the
district. Wordsworth's cottage stands half a mile outside the village.
Within easy reach of Ambleside are Coniston village and lake, upon which
a little steamer plies. Near the head of the lake is Coniston Hall, now
a farmhouse, but for long the seat of the Le Flemings, a well-known
Westmorland family.
Among the numerous other places of interest near Ambleside are
Hawkshead, the scene of Wordsworth's school life, and a most charmingly
picturesque village; Patterdale and the surrounding district; Langdale
Pikes, Shap Fells, and Stockgill Force, a fine waterfall 150 feet high.
[Illustration: _Valentine & Sons, Ltd._
WINDERMERE.
It is ten and a half miles in length, and is surrounded by the most
beautiful wooded scenery.]
ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
=Nearest Station.=--Haverfordwest (16 miles from St. Davids), thence
by coach to St. Davids, past Roch Castle.
=Distance from London.=--To Haverfordwest, 261 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 6-1/2 to 9 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 42s. 0d. 26s. 3d. 21s. 0d.
Return 72s. 3d. 46s. 0d. 42s. 0d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Grove Hotel," "City Hotel," etc.
St. Davids, the most western town in Wales, is situated on the little
river Alan, a mile from its mouth, near St. Davids Head, on the north
side of St. Brides Bay. The place is now little more than a village,
though in the Middle Ages it was a large city, the great resort of
pilgrims to St. David's shrine. The city, which was the =Menevia= of
the Romans, is almost as isolated now as it was in their days, the only
available communication being by the daily mail-cart from Haverfordwest,
and an omnibus twice a week during the season.
The modern "city" of St. Davids is a mere village, consisting of one
principal street and two at right angles, with a fine old cross at their
junction, but the chief attractions are its grand old cathedral and the
ruins of its once famous Episcopal palace. The cathedral, originally
built in 1176, is curiously situated in a deep dell, so that only the
upper part of the lofty tower is visible from the village, and the close
is entered by descending thirty-nine steps, locally known as the
thirty-nine articles. The entrance to the close is through a fine old
tower-gateway, 60 feet high, where the records were formerly kept and a
consistory court held.
The west front of the cathedral, which has been well restored, is one of
the finest features of the building. Among the more interesting objects
in the cathedral are Bishop Morgan's throne, of remarkable workmanship;
the fine rood screen, the work of Bishop Gower; Bishop Vaughan's
beautiful Tudor chapel and monument; and the shrine of St. David.
The Bishop's Palace, on the opposite bank of the river, was one of the
finest in the kingdom. It was founded by Bishop Gower in the fourteenth
century, and, together with the cathedral, St. Mary's College, and other
ecclesiastical buildings, was enclosed by a lofty wall having four
gateways, of which only one remains.
In mediaeval days the shrine of St. David was regarded with great
veneration, and was visited by William the Conqueror, Henry II., and by
Edward I. and his queen.
[Illustration: _G.W. Wilson & Co._
ST. DAVIDS CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH-EAST.]
FURNESS ABBEY, LANCASHIRE
=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Furness Abbey.
=Distance from London.=--262 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 6 and 7-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 38s. 2d. ... 21s. 9d
Return 75s. 4d (available for one month).
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Furness Abbey Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
In the days of its prosperity Furness must have been one of the most
important monastic establishments in the kingdom, although its
completeness did not come about until many years after the date of its
foundation in 1127 by Stephen, at that time Earl of Mortain and
Boulogne. The situation chosen was on the banks of a stream flowing
through a narrow fertile valley--the favourite position for Cistercian
abbeys. The monks came originally from Savigny in Normandy. Having
become very richly endowed, the foundation of the abbey was confirmed by
the charters of twelve successive sovereigns and the bulls of various
popes. Remarkable privileges were given to the abbot, who had great
authority in the whole of the surrounding district, even the military
element being, to a certain extent, dependent upon him.
A register known as the Abbot's Mortuary was kept at Furness throughout
three centuries. This was almost unique among Cistercian monasteries,
for only names of those abbots who, having presided for ten years,
continued at the abbey and died abbots there, were entered in the
register. During 277 years, therefore, only ten names were written upon
the pages. When Henry VIII., in 1537, suppressed Furness Abbey, it was
surrendered by Roger Pyke, who was abbot at the time.
The ruins of the abbey to be seen to-day are of Norman and Early English
character, and the general hue of the stone-work is a ruddy brown. Their
massive appearance almost suggests a shattered castle; but the share the
abbey took in military matters is better illustrated from the fact that
they built a watch-tower on the top of a hill rising from the walls of
the monastery, and commanding a view over the sea and the whole district
known as Low Furness. From this height the monks on watch were enabled
to give warning by signals of the approach of an enemy. The painted
glass, formerly in the east window, was removed many years ago to the
east window of Bowness Church in Westmorland.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
FURNESS ABBEY.
It was founded in 1127, and gradually grew in importance until even the
military element in the district became to some extent dependent upon
the abbot.]
MONKWEARMOUTH, NEAR JARROW
THE HOME OF THE "VENERABLE BEDE"
=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=--Jarrow (2 miles north-east from Monkton).
=Distance from London.=--268 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 5-1/4 to 7-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares=--Single 37s. 7d. ... 22s. 3d.
Return 75s. 2d. ... 44s. 6d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--At Jarrow--"Ben Lomond Hotel,"
"Burkett's Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=--Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.
Monkwearmouth, a little town 2 miles distant from Jarrow, the large
shipbuilding town on the southern bank of the river Tyne, is famous for
being the birthplace of the Venerable Bede. Bede, who was born in 673
A.D., was placed, at the age of seven years, in the monastery at
Monkwearmouth, from which he went to Jarrow, to the new monastery just
built by Benedict Biscop. He remained at Jarrow for the rest of his
life, studying the Scriptures and writing books. His greatest work was
the _Ecclesiastical History of the English Nation_, which has given him
his position as the father of English history. The story of his death is
very beautiful. He was translating St. John's Gospel into English when
he was attacked by a sudden illness, and felt he was dying. He kept on
with his task, however, and continued dictating to his scribe, bidding
him write quickly. When he was told that the book was finished he said,
"You speak truth, all is finished now," and after singing "Glory to
God," he quietly passed away.
The abbey churches of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow are interesting, because
they have remained practically unaltered from their construction in the
seventh century. The monasteries never grew sufficiently to require
great enlargements, and thus they would have been to-day very nearly as
the Anglo-Saxon monks saw them. Monkwearmouth Church was built in the
Romanesque style by Benedict Biscop, who sent to France for workmen to
put in the glass for the church windows. Besides the church, no trace
remains of any monastic building at Monkwearmouth. The chancel and tower
of the abbey church at Jarrow bear a great resemblance to those of
Monkwearmouth, both being the work of Benedict Biscop. The domestic part
of the monastery at Jarrow, where Bede lived and died, has disappeared,
for the present ruins show Norman and not Saxon work. Monkwearmouth
possesses one of the earliest Christian gravestones in England.
[Illustration: _Valentine & Sons, Ltd._
MONKWEARMOUTH CHURCH.
Partly built by Bishop Biscop in Bede's time.]
THE ISLE OF MAN
=How to get there.=--Train from Euston, King's Cross, St. Pancras, or
Paddington _via_ Liverpool, and thence by steamer.
=Nearest Station.=--Douglas, on Isle of Man.
=Distance from London.=--205 miles to Liverpool (75 miles by sea from
Liverpool to Douglas, 90 to Ramsey).
=Average Time.=--12 hours.
1st and 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and
saloon saloon saloon fore cabin
=Fares.=--Single 35s. 0d. 26s. 8d. 22s. 6d. ...
Return 68s. 0d. 46s. 3d. 39s. 6d. 35s. 6d.