"Maid's Head." Yarmouth--"Royal," "Queen's," etc. Cantley--"Red
House Hotel." Brundall--"Yare Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=--To Norwich from King's Cross, Great Northern
Railway. Train to Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft, Beccles, Cantley,
Reedham, etc., from Liverpool Street, Great Eastern Railway.
The charm of the Norfolk Broads consists to a great extent in the fact
that they present different scenery to almost any other county in
England, although the salt marshes of Essex and Suffolk possess the
family likeness obtaining throughout East Anglia. The Norfolk Broads
occupy the stretch of country north of a line drawn between Norwich and
Yarmouth, and both towns offer great advantages for getting into the
Broad country. A "broad," it should be mentioned, is a local name for a
shallow lake connected with others, and finally with the sea by such
rivers as the Yare, the Bure, or Ant. These rivers and their various
tributaries form excellent sailing grounds, for after tacking for some
time in a rush-fringed river, one suddenly enjoys the contrast of a
broad lagoon where there is plenty of space to sail more freely.
The separate characteristics of the different broads give a choice of
surroundings capable of satisfying every one. Oulton Broad, for
instance, is generally to be found full of smart yachts, while Heigham
forms a contrast in its solemn loneliness. Wroxham Broad is always
bright with white sails going to or from Surlingham, Rockland, or
Salhouse Broads. The last mentioned a beautiful piece of water, the
quieter portions of its surface being generally thick with yellow iris
and purple loosestrife and many other species of water herb. It is
shaded by trees, and makes charming pictures from many points of view.
Crome, it is said, commenced a picture of this broad on the day of his
death, and anticipated that it would be his best work.
Irstead is another beautiful broad surrounded by feathery reeds and
thick with rushes where kingfishers and wild duck are to be found. The
ruins of St. Benet's Abbey are an interesting feature along the river
Bure. Within the monastic walls a windmill has been built, and this too
is now an old ruin, having lost its sails many years ago.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
AMONG THE NORFOLK BROADS.
A typical scene on one of the rivers connecting the broads.]
NORWICH CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=--Train from Liverpool Station _via_ Colchester.
Great Eastern Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Norwich.
=Distance from London.=--114 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 4-1/4 hours. Quickest train 2
hours 32 minutes.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 20s. 6d. ... 9s. 5-1/2d.
Return 31s. 10d. ... 18s. 11d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Royal Family Hotel," "Maid's
Head Hotel," "Bell Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
The city of Norwich has a unique charm from its combination of the
mediaeval with the modern, and "improvements" so called have not spoilt
it. The chief object of interest is the cathedral, which was founded in
1094 by Bishop Herbert Losinga, who was at one time prior at Fécamp in
Normandy, and chaplain to William II. It is regarded as one of the
greatest existing examples of Norman work, and has the finest cloisters
in England. It is 411 feet long and 191 feet broad at the transepts, and
is crowned with a spire second only to that of Salisbury. Near the
cathedral are a number of ancient and interesting structures more or
less in ruins. Chief of these may be mentioned St. Ethelbert's and the
Erpingham Gate, by the west front of the cathedral, the former in
Decorated English, the latter in Late Perpendicular, and both are
valuable and rich specimens of these styles. It was Sir Thomas Erpingham
whom Henry V. in Shakespeare's play addresses as "Good old Knight," and
it was he who gave the signal to the English at the Battle of Agincourt,
saying, as he threw up his truncheon, "Now, strike!"
Norwich occupies a place in history from the time of the earlier Danish
invasions. First its castle was erected as a stronghold by the East
Anglican kings, and resorted to as a place of safety by the inhabitants,
who gave it the name of North-wic, or northern station or town. The
bishopric of the East Angles was removed hither in 1094, when the
magnificent cathedral was founded. Evelyn in his _Diary_ gives an
account of a visit he paid to that famous scholar and physician, Dr.
Thomas Browne, author of the _Religio Medici_ and _Vulgar Errors_, then
living in Norwich. It is a pleasant picture of the fine old cathedral
town which he gives. After seeing all the rare curiosities in Sir Thomas
Browne's house, he was shown all the remarkable places of the city, and
speaks of the "venerable cathedrall, the stately churches, and the
cleannesse of the streetes."
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
NORWICH CATHEDRAL.
It was founded in 1094, and is considered one of the finest examples of
Norman architecture.]
LICHFIELD
THE BIRTHPLACE OF DR. JOHNSON
=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Lichfield.
=Distance from London.=--118 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 2 to 3-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 16s. 9d. 10s. 9d. 9s. 8-1/2d.
Return 33s. 6d. 21s. 5d. 19s. 5d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Swan Hotel," "George Hotel," etc.
Lichfield, though an ancient town, has now a modern appearance, but is
interesting on account of its beautiful cathedral and its association
with Dr. Johnson. The house where the "great lexicographer" was born is
still to be seen in the market-place, very little altered from its
original condition. Next to this house is the Three Crowns Inn, where
Dr. Johnson and Boswell stayed when they visited Lichfield in 1776.
Among the few old houses that are remaining are St. John's Hospital,
rebuilt in 1495, and the Friary, part of an establishment of Grey
Friars, now forming a portion of a private house.
Lichfield has been a bishop's see since Anglo-Saxon times, and among its
earliest bishops was St. Chad, who advanced Christianity in England. For
a short period Lichfield boasted an archbishop, during the reign of
Offa, king of Mercia, who persuaded the Pope to grant his kingdom this
honour. No trace of any Anglo-Saxon building is left, and of the Norman
church that was next erected only the west part of the choir remains.
The present cathedral, built in the Early English style of Gothic, was
commenced about 1200, and was not finished until 1325, builders being
employed all the time. Though numbered among the smaller cathedrals,
Lichfield is very beautiful, possessing a great charm in the ruddiness
of the stone used in its construction. Its most striking features are
the three graceful spires, the sculptured west front, and the large Lady
Chapel. Owing, unfortunately, to its being fortified, the cathedral
suffered much damage when besieged by the Roundheads during the Civil
War. Windows and statues were broken, brass stripped from the tombs,
registers burned, but the worst calamity was the destruction of the
central tower. After the Restoration the cathedral was carefully
repaired, greatly due to the efforts of good Bishop Hacket, who spent
his time and money upon the work. The central spire was rebuilt by Sir
Christopher Wren.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.
Showing the richly-sculptured west front, and the central tower rebuilt
by Sir Christopher Wren.]
SHERBORNE AND ITS ABBEY CHURCH
=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo, _via_ Salisbury. L. and
S.W. Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Sherborne.
=Distance from London.=--118 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 3-1/4 to 6 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 19s. 8d. 12s. 4d. 9s. 10d.
Return 34s. 6d. 21s. 6d. 19s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Digby Hotel," "Antelope," "Half
Moon," etc.
Sherborne is full of archaeological interest, for besides its wonderful
Abbey Church, it has the ruins of its castle on a rocky height at the
east end of the town and a good number of ancient houses. The town
itself is situated on the side of a hill sloping down to the Yeo, and
has a clean and quaint aspect. About 705, it was chosen as the seat of a
bishopric. The see was removed to Old Sarum in 1078, but the castle
continued to be used as an episcopal residence until it was besieged by
Stephen, when it became Crown property. The Abbey Church of St. Mary the
Virgin is Norman in origin, but it has been so rebuilt and remodelled
that it is now practically Perpendicular. The whole church, with the
exception of the Lady Chapel, was very carefully restored between 1848
and 1851.
Adjoining the Abbey Church, at the west end, are the remains of the
parochial church of Alhalows, a three-aisled church in Decorated or
Early Perpendicular style. The monks and the parishioners had many
quarrels, one resulting in a fire which destroyed much of the abbey. The
Abbey Church was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir John Horsley, who sold it
to the parish for £250. There being no further use for Alhalows Church,
it was taken down.
The exterior of Sherborne Church has been called unpicturesque, owing to
its low central tower and insignificant pinnacles. It is, however, a
huge building, and its interior is so richly decorated that it more
resembles a cathedral than a parish church. It possesses the finest
fan-vault in existence, covered with gilded bosses and heraldic arms.
Contrasting with this wonderful richness of decoration are three plain
Norman arches.
The nave is divided into five bays by panelled arches, the irregular
widths of which are due to the fact that the Norman arches are cased in
with Perpendicular work. The south transept has a wonderful roof of
black Irish oak.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
SHERBORNE ABBEY CHURCH.
It contains Norman work and some of the finest fan-vaulting in
existence.]
NEWARK
=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.
=Nearest Station.=--Newark.
=Distance from London.=--120 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 3-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 17s. 6d. ... 10s.
Return 35s. 0d. ... 20s.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"The Ram Hotel," "Clinton Arms,"
"Saracen's Head," "White Hart," "Swan and Salmon," etc.
=Alternative Routes.=--Train from Euston, _via_ Market Harboro',
L. and N.W. Railway. Train from St. Pancras, Midland Rly.
Newark-upon-Trent is believed by some antiquaries to have been built in
Roman times; others state its origin to have been Saxon, but the first
absolutely certain record of it is in the time of Edward the Confessor.
The castle, which was built in the reign of Stephen, stands on the bank
of the river, and on that side is still tolerably perfect. Of the
interior nothing remains except the foundations of a great hall,
probably built in later times than the rest of the fortress. A flight of
steps leads from the hall to the crypt beneath, which has loop-holes
looking towards the river. The eastern wall has disappeared, but those
remaining are fairly intact. The architecture of the castle varies, part
being Norman, and other portions dating from before the Parliamentary
War. The space enclosed by the castle walls is now used for a
bowling-green, and also as a large cattle-market.
During King John's reign the castle was besieged by the Barons, and
John, coming to relieve them, was taken ill and died there in 1216.
During the reign of Henry III. the fortress, which had been taken from
the See of Lincoln by Stephen, was restored, and remained ecclesiastical
property until the reign of Edward VI.
In the time of Charles I. the castle sustained several sieges. It was at
Newark that Charles I. was deserted by his nephews Rupert and Maurice,
after his defeat at Naseby. The king withdrew to Oxford at the approach
of the Scots and Parliamentary armies, and Newark was besieged by the
Scots. After the king's surrender in 1646, Newark was delivered up by
his orders, and the fortifications, which were 2-1/4 miles long, were
destroyed by the Parliamentary troops.
Newark Parish Church is built chiefly in the Perpendicular style, but
contains some traces of Norman work. In the town there are also the
remains of a chapel of an ancient hospital of the Knights Templars, some
walls of an Augustine priory, and a Gothic cross.
[Illustration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._
NEWARK CASTLE.
King John died here, and in the Parliamentary War the castle underwent
several sieges.]
WELLS AND ITS CATHEDRAL
=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Wells.
=Distance from London.=--120-3/4 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 3-3/4 to 5-3/4 hours.
=Fares.=--_Via_ Chippenham and Westbury.
1st 2nd 3rd
Single 20s. 0d. 12s. 6d. 10s. 0-1/2d.
Return 35s. 2d. 22s. 0d. 20s. 0d.
_Via_ Yatton--
Single 24s. 8d. 15s. 6d. 12s. 4d.
Return 41s. 0d. 27s. 0d. 24s. 8d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Swan Hotel," "Mitre Hotel,"
"Star Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
Wells is essentially an ecclesiastical town. It has no history of its
own, no great family has ever lived there, and it has no
manufactures,--it has simply grown up round the cathedral. For these
reasons the quiet little Somersetshire town has preserved much of its
antiquity and fascination. The presence of the natural wells, which
still are to be found in the gardens of the Bishop's Palace, probably
induced King Ina in 704 to found a college of secular canons. Here a
monastery grew, and subsequently became a bishop's see. John de Villula
transferred his seat to Bath in (_circa_) 1092, and in 1139 the title
was altered to Bishop of Bath and Wells. Wells is one of the smallest of
the English cathedrals, and is in many ways the most beautiful. The
clear space in front emphasises the glorious way in which the three
massive towers harmonise with the ruins of the Bishop's Palace, the
remains of the Vicar's Close, and the chapter-house. The present
building was commenced in 1121, but Bishop Joceline of Wells (1206-1242)
rebuilt it from the middle of the choir to the west end. The Early
English work shows considerable differences to that in Salisbury and Ely
Cathedrals, being carried out by a local school of masons, who show
considerable originality in design. The glory of Wells is centred in its
west front. The deep buttresses on the towers cast shadows which only
serve to show up the marvellous sculptured figures of saints and kings,
which may represent a Te Deum in stone. The inside of the cathedral is
remarkable for the inverted arches which were put in the chancel to
support the towers. Bishop Beckington built the three arches to the
close.
A charge of 6d. is made for admission to the choir of the cathedral.
[Illustration: _F. Frith & Co._
WELLS CATHEDRAL.
Commenced in 1121, but chiefly rebuilt between 1206 and 1242. It is one
of the smallest cathedrals in England.]
STRATFORD-ON-AVON
THE BIRTHPLACE OF SHAKESPEARE
=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Stratford-on-Avon.
=Distance from London.=--121-1/2 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 3 to 4-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 16s. 0d. 10s. 6d. 8s. 5d.
Return 29s. 3d. 18s. 6d. 16s. 10d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Red Horse Hotel," "Shakespeare
Hotel," "Golden Lion Hotel," "Red Lion," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
Stratford-on-Avon, a picturesque town situated on the river Avon, in
Warwickshire, is visited yearly by thousands of people desirous of
seeing the birthplace of William Shakespeare. John Shakespeare, the
father of William, bought the two half-timbered houses in Henley Street,
where he practised his trade of wool-stapler, and it was in one of these
houses that William Shakespeare was born in 1564. These houses are now
practically in their original condition, although at one time the
wool-shop was turned into an inn. The desk, said to have been used by
Shakespeare when at school, is to be seen in the former wool-shop, now
converted into a museum. The King Edward VI. Grammar School, to which
Shakespeare went, occupies the first floor of the old Guildhall, built
in the thirteenth century, but much altered in the fifteenth century. It
was in this Guildhall that Shakespeare saw for the first time a
theatrical performance given by travelling players. Close to the
Guildhall is the site of New Place, which was bought by Shakespeare.
Only the foundations of this house remain, as in 1753 the owner, the
Rev. Francis Gastrell, being angry at having to pay some rates, was not
content with cutting down the famous mulberry tree planted by the poet,
but caused the whole house to be razed and the materials sold.
The Church of Holy Trinity, most beautifully situated on the river Avon,
is cruciform in plan. In the chancel is Shakespeare's grave, with the
stone slab having the well-known lines:--
GOOD FREND, FOR IESVS SAKE FORBEARE,
TO DIGG THE DUST ENCLOASED HEARE;
BLESTE BE YE MAN YT SPARES THES STONES,
AND CVRST BE HE YT MOVES MY BONES.
At Shottery, one mile from Stratford, is the half-timbered cottage where
Anne Hathaway, the wife of Shakespeare, was born.
[Illustration: _Valentine & Sons, Ltd._
TRINITY CHURCH, STRATFORD-ON-AVON.
From the river. In the chancel is Shakespeare's grave.]
BURNHAM THORPE, NORFOLK
THE BIRTHPLACE OF NELSON
=How to get there.=--Train from Liverpool Street or St. Pancras. Great
Eastern Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Burnham Market (1 mile from Burnham Thorpe).
=Distance from London.=--122 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 19s. 10d. ... 10s. 3d.
Return 34s. 0d. ... 20s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Hoste Arms" at Burnham Market.
Burnham Thorpe, the native village of the great Admiral Nelson, is
within walking distance of either Holkham, Burnham Market, or
Wells-next-the-Sea. Horatio Nelson, the fourth son of Edmund and
Catherine Nelson, was born on September 29, 1758, at the Parsonage
House, which has unfortunately been pulled down. There are, however,
many interesting relics of Nelson in the village church, and it is
interesting to see the surroundings among which Nelson's childhood was
passed. In the parish register may be seen the signature of Nelson as a
witness to a marriage in the year 1769, when he was eleven years old.
There is a lectern constructed from the wood of the old _Victory_, which
was presented by the Lords of the Admiralty in 1881. The old Purbeck
marble font in which Horatio was baptized is still to be seen in the
church. How much Nelson loved his native village can be understood from
his remark as the _Victory_ was going into action, "This is the happiest
day of my life; what a happy day, too, for Burnham Thorpe, for it is the
day of their fair."
Nelson's father was not by any means well off, and the question of
providing for his sons was a very serious one. Horatio, however, solved
the question as to his own career. At the Grammar School at Norwich,
Nelson said to his brother, "Do, William, write to my father and tell
him that I should like to go to sea with Uncle Maurice." Captain Maurice
Suckling is said to have heard of Horatio's decision with some surprise,
for he said, "What has poor Horatio done, who is so weak, that he, above
all the rest, should be sent to rough it out at sea? But let him come,
and the first time we go into action a cannon-ball may knock off his
head and provide for him at once."
In January 1771, when at school at North Walsham, Nelson heard that he
was to join the _Raisonnable_, of 64 guns, at Chatham. He was then only
twelve years old.
[Illustration: _G.W. Wilson & Co._
BURNHAM THORPE CHURCH.
It still contains the old marble font in which Nelson was baptized.]
LULWORTH COVE, DORSETSHIRE
=How to get there.=--By rail from Waterloo Station. South-Western
Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Wool, 5 miles. (Corfe Castle, Wareham, and
Swanage are very convenient, though the drive is a little longer.)
=Distance from London.=--126 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 3-1/2 to 5-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 21s. 0d. 13s. 2d. 10s. 6d.
Return 36s. 9d. 23s. 0d. 21s. 0d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Cove Hotel," West Lulworth.
"Banke's Arms Hotel" at Corfe Castle.
=Alternative Route.=--_Via_ Bournemouth. Train direct from Waterloo.
Steamers run once a week or oftener during the summer months
(weather permitting) to Swanage and Lulworth Cove.
The remarkable cove at West Lulworth consists of a completely circular
basin, hollowed out of the bold cliffs of the southern coast-line of
Purbeck Island. It is of sufficient depth to allow small ships of from
sixty to eighty tons to enter. The narrow opening to the cove is between
two bluffs of Portland stone, forming a portion of what was the barrier
to the sea in former times. Once, however, did the waves eat through the
Portland stone in this place, it was easy work to gradually batter down
and wash out, through the narrow opening, a circular bay from the soft
strata of Hastings sands lying in the protection of the Portland stone.
On the west side of the cove one may notice rocks with such peculiarly
contorted strata as those shown in the foreground of the illustration
opposite.
A most interesting and rugged portion of the coast lies to the west of
Lulworth Cove. After leaving the coastguard signal station one reaches
Stair Hole, a cavity walled off from the sea by Portland limestone. At
high tide, however, the sea enters the chasm through a number of small
apertures, and is probably carving out at this spot a circular basin
after the manner of Lulworth Cove. Passing Dungy Head and Oswald or
Horsewall Bay, with its towering chalk cliffs, one reaches a low
promontory known as Tongue Beach. It is formed of layers of limestone
tilted into curved or perpendicular positions. Crossing this promontory
one enters Durdle Bay, with the Barndoor, an archway 30 feet high, in a
massive cliff.
At East Lulworth, a little way inland from the cove, stands Lulworth
Castle, an imposing-looking building with circular towers at each
corner. It was built about three hundred years ago on the site of an
earlier castle.
[Illustration: LULWORTH COVE FROM THE WEST.
The circular basin has been eaten out of the sandy soil after the sea
had cut an opening in the Portland stone which forms the actual
coast-line at this point.]
CORFE CASTLE
IN THE ISLE OF PURBECK, DORSETSHIRE
=How to get there=.--By rail from Waterloo Station. South-Western
Railway.
=Nearest Station.=--Corfe Castle--quite close to the ruins.
=Distance from London.=--130 miles.
=Average Time.=--Varies between 3 to 5 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 21s. 2d. 13s. 3d. 10s. 7d.
Return 37s. 0d. 23s. 3d. 21s. 2d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.= "The Banke's Arms Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=--_Via_ Bournemouth and steamer to Swanage.