_Dear Jane:_--
"Another letter from Rouen!" you'll exclaim; yes, my dear sister, even
so--for papa being well pleased with our accommodations here, and
finding the town contains more curiosities than travellers are usually
aware of, we have thus prolonged our stay; but to-morrow go we _must_,
as our seats are engaged in the diligence for Paris. Since I wrote you
three days ago, we have seen divers other objects worthy of notice,
though not so interesting as those I have described to you. To-day we
saw the bridge of boats which connects the city with the suburb of
Saint Sévere; it rises and falls with the tide, and is divided into
compartments that can be easily separated for ships to pass through at
any moment. The invention of this bridge is attributed to an Augustin
monk. A handsome stone bridge is now building over another part of the
Seine.
Every evening at 9 o'clock we hear the tones of a clear sonorous bell,
sounding what is termed the "_retreat_." This is merely the
continuation of an ancient custom, practised during the Norman wars,
when it was necessary to give a signal for those persons who might be
without the city to enter, ere the gates were shut for the night. This
bell is also rung on occasions of public ceremonies, festivities, or
calamities, and is called the _silver_ bell, because according to
tradition, it was made of _money_ raised from taxes. It hangs in the
belfry of a curious old gothic tower, whose archway spans one of the
chief streets of Rouen, and on the side of which is placed the city
clock, resembling the face of a gigantic watch. This afternoon we
purpose visiting the botanical garden, and after that taking a farewell
drive in the neighborhood of the town; there are many beautiful
prospects to be seen from the surrounding hills.
Yesterday Edgar and myself walked to the terrace of St. Paul, a plain
and antique little church, built it is said on the ruins of a temple of
Adonis. From the terrace you enjoy a fine view; and near it is a
mineral spring, the second in Rouen. Here we met with a number of
ladies and gentlemen, and were much diverted at the tricks of a fellow
who mimicked the peculiarities of different nations; and when about to
show off the _English_, cried out, "Maintenant pour 'Got dam;'" he made
the most ridiculous faces you can imagine, and excited great mirth. It
was surprising what power of muscle and expression he possessed; one
moment his nose appeared turned up, his eyes squinting, and his mouth
too small to admit a _plum_; the next, you'd think he could take in a
_melon_--and his physiognomy would so completely change, that you could
scarcely believe it was the same person before you. Sometimes to
increase the effect, he put on a huge pair of spectacles and sung a
droll song, a companion playing merrily on the violin all the while,
and suiting the melody to the performance. After this came a band of
tumblers, and three children tawdrily dressed--exhibited sundry feats
on the back of a chair, and on the head and shoulders of a man. It was
painful to behold the little creatures in such jeopardy; and having
contributed our sous for their benefit, we quitted the scene. Adieu.