Proposed movements.
Hot wind.
Heavy rains set in.
Country impassable for several days.
Excursion to the plundered camp of Mr. Finch.
Recover the cart and trunks.
Bury the bodies.
Columns of smoke.
Signals of the natives.
Courage and humanity of one of the men.
Homeward journey continued.
Difficult travelling.
Civility of the tribe first met.
Mosquitoes troublesome.
Regain the Namoi.
Ascend Mount Warroga.
Re-cross the Peel.
Conclusion.
PROPOSED MOVEMENTS.
We had arrived at the point where I considered it necessary to quit our
former route, and cross the open country towards the range that we might
thus fall into our old track within a few days' journey of our last camp
on the Namoi. This direction would cut off ten days' journey of the route
outward, and extended across open plains where the party would be much
more secure than in the woods, at a time when the natives had given us so
much cause to be vigilant. But these plains, however favourable, afforded
only an accidental advantage, for had the situations of wood and plain
been reversed, we must still have endeavoured to penetrate by the route
which was the most direct.
February 13.
Keeping the lagoon on our right we travelled as its winding shores
permitted, towards the hills, and we thus made a good journey of ten
miles in the direction of Mount Frazer. In our way we crossed a chain of
ponds which entered the lagoon from the east, and was doubtless a branch
from some of the channels crossed by us in our outward journey; but it
was difficult to say which, from the winding course and number, of those
which thus intersect the country.
When we had proceeded a few miles a loud cooey was heard from the banks
of the lagoon, and on perceiving smoke ascending also I rode across to
ascertain what natives were there; but although I found newly-burnt grass
and a tree still on fire, also many trees from which the bark had been
newly stripped, I could discover no inhabitants.
These ponds coming from the eastward at length lay in our way so much
that it was necessary to cross them; and having effected this at a dry
part of the hollow channel we encamped on the banks, as it was unlikely
that any water might be found beyond for some distance. It now appeared
very probable, from their general direction, that these were a
continuation of Bombelli's Ponds, named after my unfortunate courier
whose bones still lay there. That point, our present camp and Meadow
Ponds, where I intended to strike again into our former track, formed an
equilateral triangle, the length of each side being about twenty-two
miles. I could therefore, during the next twenty-two miles of our route,
make an excursion to the scene of pillage from any point which might be
most convenient. I preferred the earliest opportunity, in hopes of
surprising the natives; and I accordingly prepared to set out the next
morning, accompanied by Mr. Finch and seven men on horseback, leaving Mr.
White with eight men, equally well armed, to guard the camp. By this
arrangement the bullocks, which had been rather hard wrought, would enjoy
a day's rest. I availed myself of every precaution, as far as prudence
could suggest, in selecting a position for our camp and arranging the
carts for defence. A better one against surprise could not have been
found as it overlooked an open country for several miles on all sides.
HOT WIND.
A hot wind, which had been blown during the day from the south, brought a
very gloomy sky in the evening, when the wind veered to the south-east.
The sun set amid clouds of a very uncommon appearance, too plainly
indicating that the rain was at length coming. We had now however left
those low levels and dense scrubs where the natives began to hang about
us like hungry wolves; and I could not reflect on what might have been
the consequence had we been delayed only one week longer there, without
feeling grateful for our providential escape. It was obvious that had we
got fast in the mud, or been hemmed in by inundations, we might have been
harassed on one side by the natives of the Gwydir, and on the other by
the plunderers of Mr. Finch's party, until we shared a similar fate. We
had now fortunately arrived within sight of the hills, the country around
us was open, and with these advantages, the nature of our position was so
different that I could OCCUPY the country, divide my party, visit the
camp of Mr. Finch, and recover what we could from that scene of plunder.
HEAVY RAINS SET IN.
February 14.
This morning it rained heavily, and the dark sky promised no better
weather during the day. I therefore gave up at once my intention of
dividing the party here, and moved the whole forward at an early hour,
being desirous to push the carts as near the hills as possible before the
plains became too soft; and with this view I deferred my intended visit
to the plundered camp until after the termination of another day's
journey. The soil, as from experience we had reason to expect, had become
very soft, and the rain pouring in torrents it became so more and more.
The wheels however did go round, and the party followed me over a plain
which scarcely supported even a tuft of grass on which I could fix my eye
in steering by compass through the heavy rain. At length I distinguished
half a dozen trees, towards which we toiled for several hours, and which
grew, as we found when we at length got to them, beside a pond of water;
the only one to be seen on these plains. There was also some grass beside
it, and we encamped on its bank, placing the carts in a line at
rightangles to the trees, thus taking possession of all the cover from an
attack that could be found. We had travelled eight miles over the open
plain in a straight line, and considering the state of the earth I was
surprised that the cattle had made any progress through it. When the
clouds drew up a little I was not sorry to discover that the plain was
clear of wood to a considerable distance on all sides, nor to recognise
some of the hills overlooking our old route.
COUNTRY IMPASSABLE FOR SEVERAL DAYS.
According to the bearings of several of these I found that the plundered
camp was only seventeen miles distant; and as the ground was so soft that
we could not move farther with the carts until fair weather had again
rendered it passable, I resolved to halt the party here until after my
intended excursion to Bombelli's Ponds.
February 15.
The rain continued but not without some intermission. At one time the
wind came from the north, and in the evening the moon made her appearance
amid fleecy clouds, which raised our hopes.
February 16.
The rain poured down from a sky that might have alarmed Noah. The ground
became a sea of mud; even within our tents we sank to the knees, no one
could move about with shoes--the men accordingly waded bare-footed. The
water in the pond was also converted into mud. Ground-crickets of an
undescribed species--which perhaps may be called Gryllotalpa
australis--came out of the earth in great numbers.
At three P.M. the blue sky appeared in the west, and the nimbus clouds
subsided. Towards night the wind died away, and the full moon rising in a
most serene sky encouraged us once more to indulge in the hope of getting
home.
February 17.
A beautiful clear morning, but this was nevertheless a dies non to us,
owing to the impassable state of the surface of the earth. An emu came
very near our tents, and by carrying a bush a la Birnam we got several
shots without however having the good fortune to hit it. We had the
satisfaction to find that the ground was drying very fast. In the evening
the mountains to the eastward were seen clearly for the first time. They
appeared to be very rocky and steep, much resembling the outline of
Teneriffe or Madeira; and no trees appeared on the highest pinnacles.
EXCURSION TO THE PLUNDERED CAMP OF MR. FINCH.
February 18.
The weather continuing fine it was now in my power to visit the
unfortunate camp of Mr. Finch. Leaving Mr. White therefore in charge of
ours, I proceeded this morning towards that spot, accompanied by Mr.
Finch and a party mounted on packhorses. We pursued a direct line,
traversing every scrub in the way, in expectation of surprising some of
the natives. After riding six miles we passed one of their encampments
where they appeared to have recently been, as the fire was still burning.
In the scrubs we saw several flocks of kangaroos, eight or ten in each;
and on the plains we this day saw a greater number of emus than we had
before fallen in with during the whole journey.
Reaching at length the open plains beyond Brush Hill, I once more traced
the line of that watercourse which may truly be said to have saved our
lives when we first providentially fell in with it, just as the men were
beginning to sink, overcome by extreme and long-continued thirst. To us
it had afforded then the happiest of camps after such a deliverance; and
now we were to witness in the same spot a scene of death. Having struck
into the old track of the carts as we approached the place we found the
pistol of Bombelli within a foot of the track. This was surprising, for
although Mr. Finch had informed me that Bombelli lost it in the grass
after adjusting some harness (a fatal loss, poor fellow, to him) it is
seldom that any article so dropped escapes the quick-sighted natives, to
whom the surface of the earth is, in fact, as legible as a newspaper, so
accustomed are they to read in any traces left thereon the events of the
day. For the lost pistol, Burnett, who had charge of the arms, carefully
sought, as he felt a commendable and soldier-like desire to carry back to
Sydney, in good order, our full complement of firearms.
RECOVER THE CART AND TRUNKS.
A lonely cart and two dead bodies covered by the remains of Mr. Finch's
equipment now marked the spot where we had formerly encamped. The two
bullocks were no longer to be seen. The natives had revisited the spot
since Mr. Finch last quitted it, and had carried off the remainder of the
flour, and great part of the canvas of the tent. The bodies were covered
by a pile of various articles such as saddles, bows and yokes, harness,
packsaddles, trunks, canisters, etc. The savages appeared to have been
ignorant of the use of sugar, tea, and tobacco, articles which the
aborigines nearer to our colony prefer to all other things. A large
canister of tea had been emptied on the ground, a similar canister, more
than half full of sugar, lay on its side, so that its contents were still
good, the lids of both canisters having been carried off. The whole stock
of tobacco lay scattered about the ground and destroyed by the late
rains. A spade, a steel-yard, and a hammer were left; although iron had
been so desirable that one of the iron pins of the cart was carried away.
The two hair trunks belonging to Mr. Finch and which contained his
clothes, papers, etc. remained on the heap, uninjured and unopened, while
the truly savage plunderers had carried off, apparently as stuff for
clothing, the canvas of the tent. From these circumstances it was obvious
that the murderous were quite unacquainted with the colonists or their
habits.
BURY THE BODIES.
The bodies were now in the most offensive state of putrefaction, and
already so much decayed that we could not even distinguish the persons,
except by the smaller frame of Bombelli. The body of the bullock-driver
lay under the cart, where he had been accustomed to sleep; that of
Bombelli about four feet from it. No dress appeared to have been on
either besides the shirts, and one side of each skull was so shattered
that fragments lay about on removing the remains into a grave. It seemed
most probable that the natives had stolen upon them when asleep.
I ought to state here that Mr. Finch, on first leaving the settled
districts, had five men, two of whom, having behaved ill, he had been
obliged to send back to the colony.
COLUMNS OF SMOKE.
Having interred the bodies we loaded the cart with such articles as still
remained serviceable, and yoking it to three of the horses which the men
had brought, we returned towards the camp. By the smoke which arose from
various parts we perceived that the aborigines were watching our
proceedings, and I considered it desirable, under all circumstances, to
return to the camp that night, although the distance was seventeen miles.
On approaching these remains of Mr. Finch's party in the morning, I had
proceeded under cover of the scrubs, that the natives might be as little
as possible aware of our movement or intentions. We now returned towards
our camp along the original track, as being a direction not only more
favourable for the cart, but more expeditious; for as the route was
already marked, no further care respecting the line was necessary, and I
could thus devote my whole attention to the natives, who were about.
SIGNALS OF THE NATIVES.
When we reached the head of the highest slope, near the place whence I
first saw these ponds, a dense column of smoke ascended from Mount
Frazer, and subsequently other smokes arose,* extending in telegraphic
line far to the south, along the base of the mountains; and thus
communicating to the natives who might be upon our route homewards the
tidings of our return. These signals were distinctly seen by Mr. White at
the camp, as well as by us.
(*Footnote. This mode of communicating intelligence of sudden danger, so
invariably practised by the natives of Australia, seems quite in
conformity with the customs of early ages as mentioned in Scripture. "O
ye children of Benjamin, gather yourselves to flee out of the midst of
Jerusalem, and set up a sign of fire in Beth-haccerem: for evil appears
out of the north, and great destruction." Jeremiah 6:1.)
The sun set soon after we passed Mount Frazer, but fortunately not until
the woods no longer intervened between us and the camp. On that naked
horizon we might hope at length to see our fires, although they were then
nine miles distant, and I knew the bearing sufficiently well to be able
to travel by compass nearly in their direction. A few bushes on the
outline of the horizon were long useful as precluding the necessity for
repeated references to the compass, but a dark cloud arose beyond and
obscured the western horizon.
COURAGE AND HUMANITY OF ONE OF THE MEN.
Just then a good old packhorse, named Rattler, knocked up, and I
reluctantly gave orders to leave him behind, when Whiting, the old
guardsman, volunteered to remain with him, and bring him on after he had
rested: this in the face of both hunger and danger I duly appreciated,
and long remembered, to his advantage. We soon after came upon some
surface water and refreshed the tired animals. Precisely at eight
o'clock, as I had arranged with Mr. White, a rocket ascended from the
camp, and to us was just perceptible, like a needle in the remote
distance. That little column of fire however was enough to assure the
fatigued men; and it enabled me to mark two stars in the same direction,
which guided me on towards the camp. At length we could distinguish the
large fires made there for the same purpose; and by ten o'clock we had
terminated the arduous labours of the day, and I had the satisfaction to
find that the party under Mr. White had remained undisturbed. Two more
rockets were afterwards sent up for the guidance of Whiting, and a huge
fire was also kept burning until, at three A.M. the old soldier arrived
safe, bringing up the old horse which, after resting a while and drinking
at the water (found by Whiting as well as by us) had come on tolerably
well.
HOMEWARD JOURNEY CONTINUED.
February 19.
Notwithstanding the fatigues undergone by a portion of the party we were
all glad to quit the muddy camp this morning; and we continued to travel
towards the old route, on the same bearing by which we had approached it.
DIFFICULT TRAVELLING.
The ground was still soft, rendering the draught heavy, and our homeward
progress was accordingly very slow. At length however we reached the
ponds, which we recognised as the same we had formerly crossed about a
mile and a half more to the eastward, and I now named them Welcome Ponds.
To these salutary waters Mr. Finch had fallen back when unable to find
any at Mount Frazer. We this day traversed an open plain extending the
whole way between the two camps. I observed, as we proceeded, a hill to
the southward, the summit of which was equally clear of timber as the
plains, above which its height was 80 or 100 feet. The sides were grassy
and smooth. I named it Mount Mud, in commemoration of the difficulties
with which we had contended in its neighbourhood. Welcome Ponds, on which
we now encamped, had been converted by the late rain into a running
brook. The slopes of the ground on its banks were so anomalous that but
for the actual current of the water to the westward, and the situation of
the hills on the eastward, whence alone it could come, I must have
remained in doubt as to the direction of the fall of the waters in that
channel. The banks of these watercourses on the plains, as I have
elsewhere observed, are the highest parts of the ground. This higher
ground appeared here to rise towards the west, along the banks of the
brook which, flowing also westward, seemed to run up hill.
ROCKS OF NUNDEWAR.
The soil was mixed with pebbles of vesicular trap, probably amygdaloid
with the kernels decomposed, and containing particles of olivine. There
were also pebbles of a quartzose conglomerate, and others of decomposed
porphyry, the base consisting of granular felspar, with crystals of
common felspar. It is not improbable that good millstones might be
obtained from the range of Nundewar. The grass was fortunately much
better here than at the last camp.
February 20.
During the night a heavy thunderstorm broke over us, and was accompanied
by so much rain that the ground was too soft in the morning for us to
proceed. I accordingly halted till one o'clock. We then succeeded in
crossing the brook immediately above our encampment, and continued, first
southward to avoid a scrub, and then almost east. On a portion of open
ground the progress of the party was slow enough, but in an open kind of
scrub, where I hoped to have got on better, the ground proved to be still
less favourable, for water lay in hollows which at any season might have
been soft and were then impassable. The cattle at length could draw no
longer, the carts sinking to the axles; by attaching a double team
however and drawing each cart successively forward to our intended camp,
we effected the transit of the whole by sunset, and fixed our home for
the night on a hard bank of gravel beside Meadow Ponds, and to my no
small satisfaction, on the line of our former track. We had travelled
five miles only, but to hit this point, which was exactly at an angle of
that route, was a desideratum with me, and we had now before us a line of
marked trees leading homewards, and relieving me from all further anxiety
as to the line to be pursued.
The ponds were now united by a stream of beautifully clear water, and
were so far different from those we had left that morning in which the
water had a clayey or muddy colour. During this day's journey we killed a
snake measuring seven feet in length and eight inches in diameter; and
the fat of this reptile was considered a useful addition to a dish at
dinner. In the watercourse we found pebbles similar to those at the last
camp.
February 21.
Proceeding at an early hour we now traversed, with satisfaction, the
scrub through which, during very hot weather, we had formerly been
obliged to cut our way. The ground beyond it was soft, and the labour
distressing to our jaded cattle. About three P.M. we encamped on a rising
ground where some water, which had fallen during the late rains, had
lodged in hollows, in sufficient abundance to satisfy our wants. In
respect to this essential article, indeed, the late rains had supplied
enough to leave me more at liberty in the choice of camps. From the site
selected here the view of the mountains to the eastward was rather fine,
especially as the ground sloped towards them. Behind us on the west was a
dense scrub; not the most pleasant of neighbours when savage natives were
about.
CIVILITY OF THE TRIBE FIRST MET.
February 22.
We traversed without much difficulty the plains where we had, on our
advance, halted to make certain repairs; and we next entered the scrub
where I had presented the tomahawk to the young native as a reward for
the confidence with which he had approached us, when the rest of his
tribe fell back. We had not advanced far beyond the scene of that
interview when I perceived a number of natives running before me along
our line of route. I hastened after them, when I perceived several men
advancing to meet me. They halted in a rather formal manner at some
distance, and I next came upon their spears which, with a stone hatchet,
had been laid across our track. There I alighted from my horse, and
proceeded slowly towards them on foot, inviting them as well as I could
to come forward, and which they accordingly did. Three men met me at
halfway. One of these seemed rather old, another was very stout and fat,
and the third had an intelligent countenance and thin person, but was so
thickly covered with the most raised sort of scarifications that I was
half inclined to think that the slightness of his frame might be partly
owing to the lacerations which covered it. Other members of the tribe
soon joined us, and as the carts by this time had arrived at the spears
on the ground I took one up and explained to the natives that the wheels
passing over would break them; still these strange people would not
remove them, and I concluded that this prostration of their weapons was
intended to make us acquainted with their friendly disposition towards
us. They began to call loudly to their gins, who stood assembled under a
large tree at some distance, and we plainly understood the invitation of
the men to visit these females. But our party was much more disposed to
fight than make love; and I have little doubt that by throwing a single
spear the natives would have pleased them more than by all the civility
they were evidently anxious to show us; so desirous were they, at that
time, to avenge the late murders--when even the odour of corruption still
hung like a pestilence about the articles recovered from the plundered
camp. The natives however PERHAPS out of pure cordiality in return for
our former disinterested kindness, persisted in their endeavours to
introduce us very particularly to their women. They ordered them to come
up, divested of their cloaks and bags, and placed them before us. Most of
the men appeared to possess two, the pair in general consisting of a fat
plump gin, and one much younger. Each man placed himself before his gins
and, bowing forward with a shrug, the hands and arms being thrown back
pointing to each gin, as if to say: Take which you please. The females on
their part evinced no apprehensions, but seemed to regard us beings of a
race so different without the slightest indication of either fear,
aversion, or surprise. Their looks were rather expressive of a ready
acquiescence in the proffered kindness of the men, and when at length
they brought a sable nymph vis-a-vis to Mr. White, I could preserve my
gravity no longer and, throwing the spears aside, I ordered the
bullock-drivers to proceed. I endeavoured to explain by gestures that two
of our party had been killed by their countrymen, and pointed to the
place so that, as Mr. White thought, they understood me. On seeing the
party again in motion most of the natives disappeared, one or two only
lingered behind trees, and it then occurred to me to offer them a small
iron tomahawk in exchange for that of stone which lay beside the spears.
I therefore sent Dawkins to them to make a bargain if he could, but on
going back he saw most of the natives running off with spears in their
hands, and could not make his object understood by those who remained.
The earth in this part of our old track had become very soft and,
although the surface undulated, it possessed a peculiar rottenness, so
that where the upper crust bore me on horseback the carts would suddenly
sink to the axle. The horses at length began also to sink through the
surface crust, and we were approaching a hollow which appeared likely to
be still worse, when our wheel-carriages at length got quite fast and
then, recollecting some gestures of the natives, I understood their
meaning. They had pointed forward along the way we were pursuing, holding
the hands as high as the breast as if to show how deep; and then to the
eastward, as if to say: that direction would be better. We were now
forced to retrace our steps, and in following the course indicated by the
natives we made a slight detour, and travelled over hard ground into our
old track again. This useful information given so kindly by these natives
convinced me that no treachery was intended, although among the men, who
had so recently buried their comrades, I believe a different opinion
prevailed.
No other impediment obstructed our progress through these woods, which
consisted of the ironbark species of eucalyptus, and we soon emerged on
the plains where the surface, being composed of clay, was found much the
best for travelling upon at that season, and altogether free from that
rottenness which, in some parts of the forest, had this day so greatly
impeded the party. We encamped on the ground which we had formerly
occupied at Lobster Pond.
MOSQUITOES TROUBLESOME.
During this and the two preceding days the party was tormented by a very
large species of mosquito which had not been previously seen on this
journey. They were most troublesome when the morning was growing warm.
Their colour was grey, and they had thin black parallel stripes on the
back. We met these tormenting insects on first entering the woods from
the plains. During the drought a smaller species had been troublesome at
night, as I had frequently experienced when obliged to sit, sextant in
hand, awaiting the passage of stars near the meridian. I found that the
burning a little bullock dung in my tent cleared it of all mosquitoes for
the night.
February 23.
This morning we were early en route in hopes to reach the Namoi. I took
care to find again the tree which bore the yellow flowers; as it
certainly was rare, being the only one of the description seen throughout
the journey. Now however the flowers had given place to young fruit which
were of the size of an acorn, and grew on a long hooked stalk.*
(*Footnote. See Chapter 2.8 of next Journey for a description of this
tree.)
In crossing the low ridge which separates the plains from the Namoi we
again toiled through very soft ground. It occurred chiefly on the sides
of slopes, and in the midst of forests of eucalypti, where I should have
expected the hardest kind of surface. We made the Namoi however in good
time; this being the first of our former stages which we had been able to
accomplish in one day since the wet weather commenced. The late rains had
produced no change in the waters of this river; a circumstance showing
perhaps that less had fallen in the south-east than on the plains where
we had been.
None of the kind of fish that we most prized (Gristes peelii) could now
be caught in this river, though abundance of that which the men commonly
called bream (Cernua bidyana) a very coarse but firm fish which makes a
groaning noise when taken out of the water; and here it may be observed
that the colour of the cod or Peel's perch was lighter, and that of the
eel-fish (tandanus) darker in the Karaula than in any other river.
REGAIN THE NAMOI.
February 24.
A fine cool morning. I attempted to cut off a slight detour in our old
track by travelling nearer to the course of the Namoi; but a soft and
swampy flat soon compelled me to seek the former wheel-marks, and even to
proceed still nearer to the base of the hills, for the sake of hard
ground. We next travelled westward of our line, thus crossing an
excellent tract of country; and without further impediment we arrived on
Maule's creek, which we crossed with all our carts and equipment to
encamp on the left bank. The limpid stream was not much, if at all,
augmented.
From this side of the country, now that smoke no longer obscured the
horizon, the outline of the great range was very bold, a lofty and very
prominent pyramid crowning the most elevated south-western extremity, and
forming as important a point for the survey of the country to the
south-west as Mount Riddell presents for that towards the north-west.
This point I named Mount Forbes after my friend Captain Forbes, 39th
Regiment, then commanding the mounted police in New South Wales. That
great range presents three principal heads, of which Mounts Riddell and
Forbes are the northern and southern, the central or highest being Mount
Lindesay.
February 25.
The party moved to the former encampment at Bullabalakit. In passing near
the place where we set up our tents on quitting the canvas boats, I
sought my buried specimens of rocks, and found that, for once, I had been
able to hide so that the natives could not find. The treasure however
consisted only of stones. My notes addressed to Mr. Finch, which I had
hidden in trees as we advanced, never escaped their notice, neither had
the provisions left for the use of my unfortunate courier Bombelli at the
camp we now again occupied been suffered to remain where we had
cautiously buried them. All the planks of sawn timber left at our old
saw-pit had been collected in a heap and partly burnt.
From the hill over the camp the view of the horizon was at length
unobscured by smoke, and I found it possible to connect the distant
points of the Nundewar range, with those then between us and the colony.
Many hills which I had not before seen to the eastward were also visible.
A heavy thundershower fell in the afternoon, and it was accompanied by a
violent gale of wind which blew down Mr. White's tent, and very
materially injured mine.
TWO STRANGERS ON HORSEBACK.
February 26.
The party continued towards that portion of the Namoi at which we first
arrived on advancing into those desolate regions, and we passed our old
encampment beside The Barber's stockyard near Tangulda. After travelling
about eight miles we met Mr. Brown of Wallamoul and his stockman on
horseback. They had followed our track thus far on the information they
had received from the native, Mr. Brown, and were proceeding to examine
The Barber's stockyard. They informed us that our native guide confessed
to them that his dread of the savage natives had induced him to return.
The men caught several large cod (Peel's perch) one of which weighed 13
pounds. The river remained unswollen.
February 27.
As we continued our homeward journey Mr. Brown overtook us. He had found
various brands of his cattle on portions of hide about the stock-yard. He
assured me I should find no water at my old encampment where I intended
again to halt, for that he had passed the previous night there without
water. I however had the satisfaction to find as much as ever on the
rocky bed of the watercourse where it is not so liable to be absorbed.
ASCEND MOUNT WARROGA.
Having arrived early at this spot I again ascended the range, and
proceeded along its crests to one of the highest summits, named Warroga.
From this point I could at length recognise Mount Murulla, Oxley's Pic,
Moan, and other pinnacles of the Liverpool range, and with which I now
connected my last station upon the Namoi. From Ydire, a hill nearer the
camp, I also obtained, in returning, some observations, and one angle of
great value with Mount Forbes, much required for the purpose of mapping
the country we had explored. On the side of Warroga, we saw a very large
black wallaroo which sat looking at us with apparent curiosity.
Scurvy now began to affect the party. We endeavoured to counteract the
progress of this disease by plentiful issues of limejuice, and some
portable vegetable soups, but of the latter we had but a very small
supply. Dysentery did not alarm us much for The Doctor generally set the
patients to rights in eight and forty hours with something he found in
the medicine chest.
February 28.
The morning was fine* when we again saw the plains of Mullaba on passing
through the gorge under Mount Ydire. As we travelled across the plains,
on which the young verdure, first offspring of the late rain, already
began to shoot, four emus were observed quietly feeding at no great
distance, apparently heedless of our party. I approached them with my
rifle, on a steady old horse, and found that this large quadruped,
however strange a sight, did not in the least alarm those gigantic birds,
even when I rode close up. I alighted, leveled my rifle over the saddle
and fired but missed, as I presumed, for the bird merely performed a sort
of pirouette, and then recommenced feeding with the others as before. I
had no means of reloading without returning to the party, but I was
content with discovering that these birds might be thus approached on
horseback for in general the first appearance of men, although miles
distant, puts them at once to their speed which, on soft loose earth,
perhaps surpasses that of a horse.
(*Footnote. "Felicissimos eran los tiempos" (the weather was fine) said
Cervantes, which words Smollett literally translated: "Happy were the
times." Both meanings would apply to our case then.)
The ford of Wallanburra was now our only separation from the christian
world. That once passed, we might joyfully bid adieu to pestilence and
famine, the lurking savage, and every peril of flood and field. Under the
sense of perfect security once more, and relieved from the anxiety
inseparable from such a charge, every object within the territory of
civilised man appeared to me tinged couleur de rose.
RE-CROSS THE PEEL.
The Peel was crossed without difficulty, and on the following morning,
leaving the party in charge of Mr. White, I commenced my ride homeward
through the woods, followed only by my man Brown; and on reaching
Segenhoe I forwarded to the Government my official despatch, announcing
the return of the party, and the result of the expedition.
...
CONCLUSION.
On my arrival at Sydney I learnt that the life of the convict Clarke had
been spared, and that my report of the course of the Peel and the Namoi
coinciding, as notified in my first despatch, with his description of
these rivers, had encouraged the Government to place more confidence in
his story. It was now obvious however that the account of his travels
beyond Tangulda was little else than pure invention. I examined him in
the hulk at Sydney in the presence of the acting Governor, and was quite
satisfied that he had never been beyond the Nundewar range. Nevertheless
he persisted in his story of the river, and a party of mounted police
commanded by Captain Forbes of the 39th regiment repaired to the Namoi,
in search of a gang of bushrangers, but not without hopes of finding the
Kindur.
That active and enterprising officer reached the Gwydir in latitude 29
degrees 27 minutes 37 seconds South, longitude 150 degrees 5 minutes
East. Tracing upwards its course, or a branch of this river, he arrived
near the western extremity of the Nundewar range, and ascended the hill
named by him Mount Albuera. Being accompanied by a native of Bathurst, he
ascertained that the aboriginal name of the singular-looking hill forming
the western extremity of that range was Courada (the name of The Barber's
burning mountain) and his plains of Ballyran were found to be those
crossed by my party in returning from Snodgrass Lagoon.
This journey of discovery proved that any large river flowing to the
north-west must be far to the northward of latitude 29 degrees. All the
rivers south of that parallel, and which had been described by The Barber
as falling into such a river as the Kindur, have been ascertained to
belong wholly to the basin of the Darling.
The country we traversed was very eligible in many parts for the
formation of grazing establishments, as a proof of which it may be
mentioned that flocks of sheep soon covered the plains of Mulluba, and
that the country around The Barber's stockyard has, ever since the return
of the expedition, been occupied by the cattle of Sir John Jamieson. At a
still greater distance from the settled districts much valuable land will
be found around the base of the Nundewar range. The region beyond these
mountains, or between them and the Gwydir, is beautiful; and in the
vicinity, or within sight, of the high land, it is sufficiently well
watered to become an important addition to the pastoral capabilities of
New South Wales.
...
METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT DURING THE EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST, AND
COMMENCED ON CROSSING LIVERPOOL RANGE, DECEMBER 5, 1831.
COLUMN 1: DATE.
COLUMN 2: WINDS, A.M.
COLUMN 3: WINDS, P.M.
COLUMN 4: CLOUDS, A.M.
COLUMN 5: CLOUDS, P.M.
COLUMN 6: THERMOMETER (IN THE SHADE), SUNRISE.
COLUMN 7: THERMOMETER (IN THE SHADE), NOON.
COLUMN 8: THERMOMETER (IN THE SHADE), 4 P.M.
COLUMN 9: THERMOMETER (IN THE SHADE), SUNSET.
COLUMN 10: REMARKS.
December:
5 : North-west : North-west : Clear : Clear : 70 : 96 : 94 : 86 : Hot
wind.
6 : - : North-North-west : - : - : 64 : 95 : 98 : 90 : -.
7 : - : North-west : Cirrus : Nimbus : 84 : 92 : 96 : 84 : A.M., sultry,
P.M., thunder and showers.
8 : Calm : South-South-East : Cirro-cumulus : Sky clear : 68 : 81 : 90 :
78 : - PM., sultry.
9 : - : North-east : Clear : Clear : 60 : 89 : 90 : 88 : Towards evening
the wind unsettled.
10 : West-South-West : South : Nimbus : Rain : 70 : 68 : 66 : 64 : In the
morning cloudy, rain in the afternoon.
11 : Light North-North-East : South-South-West : Cumulus : Clear : 63 :
79 : 78 : 75 : Fine during the day.
12 : South-West : Calm : Cirro-cumulus : - : 60 : 88 : 76 : 70 : -.
13 : North-North-East : South-South-West : Cumulostratus : Cirrus, Nimbi
below : Clear : 68 : 85 : 78 : 66 : Thunder with light showers.
14 : Calm : South-West : Clear : Cirrus : 60 : 82 : 80 : 74 : Fine
weather.
15 : North-North-East : - : Cumulostratus : Cloudy : - : 62 : 80 : 80 :
66 : Overcast and cloudy.
16 : South-South-West : - : Clear : Clear : 52 : 80 : 72 : 60 : The day
clear and fine.
17 : South-West : Calm : - : - : 46 : 87 : 74 : 74 : -.
18 : North-West : North-West : - : - : 52 : 88 : 81 : 76 : -.
19 : West : South-West : - : Hazy : 46 : 84 : 80 : 70 : Strong winds from
south-west.
20 : North-West : North-West : - : - : 46 : 92 : 84 : 74 : Hot wind.
21 : South-West : South-West : - : Clear : 45 : 84 : 82 : 70 : Fine
weather.
22 : Light North-West : North-North-West : - : - : 53 : 92 : 84 : 70 :
Close and sultry.
23 : North-West : Calm : - : - : 58 : 92 : 90 : 75 : -.
24 : South-West : - : - : - : 60 : 92 : 94 : 82 : Fine weather.
25 : North-West : - : - : Cirrostratus : 66 : 96 : 95 : 84 : Wind
oppressively hot.
26 : - : South-South-West : Cirrus : - : 68 : 96 : 94 : 86 : P.M. a
cooling South-west breeze.
27 : Calm : Light North-West air : Clear : Clear : 58 : 96 : 94 : 84 :
Oppressively hot.
28 : - : Calm : - : Cirrus : 58 : 98 : 94 : 80 : Not a breath of wind.
29 : - : - : - : Nimbus : 56 : 94 : 91 : 83 : -.
30 : Light North-West airs : East-South-East : - : - : 54 : 93 : 87 : 78
: Thunder in the distance.
31 : Calm : Calm : - : - : 53 : 92 : 79 : 74 : Fine weather.
January:
1 : North-West : West : - : - : 61 : 99 : 94 : 82 : Excessively sultry at
noon.
2 : - : North-West : Cumulostratus : Thunderclouds : 69 : 91 : 95 : 88 :
The breeze pleasantly cool from the North-west.
3 : - : Calm : Clear : - : 73 : 101 : 96 : 87 : - Distant thunder.
4 : - : North : Cirrus : - : 76 : 108 : 102 : 86 : Uncommon heat during
the day.
5 : North-North-East : North-west : - : Clear : 76 : 100 : 98 : 88 : Air
from the North-North-East cool and refreshing.
6 : North-west : Calm : Cirrus and Cumulostratus : Cloudy : 77 : 99.5 :
96 : 88 : Hot wind.
7 : West : - : Thunderclouds : Thunderclouds : 78 : 100 : 98 : 86 : A.M.,
light showers, PM., clearing off.
8 : North : North-West : Overcast : Overcast : 76 : 82 : 82 : 76 :
Overcast and threatening.
9 : East : North-east : - : - : 70 : 82 : 80 : 76 : -.
10 : South-East : East-South-East : Rain : Rain : 70 : 80 : 76 : 71 :
Light rain.
11 : South-South-East : South : - : - : 68 : 74 : 73 : 70 : Heavy rain
during the day.
12 : South-South-West : South-West : Thunderclouds : Thunderclouds : 70 :
86 : 72 : 69 : Thunder, with light showers at intervals.
13 : North : North-West : Cirrus : Clear : 71 : 91 : 92 : 71 : Fine
weather.
14 : North-East : - : Nimbus : Cirrus : 75 : 92 : 90 : 78 : -.
15 : North : North-East : Clear : - : 63 : 96 : 92 : 84 : -.
16 : - : North-North-East : Cirrus : Clear : 69 : 92 : 95 : 87 : -.
17 : Calm : South-West : Cumulostratus : Thunderclouds : 71 : 95 : 102 :
88 : Fair weather.
18 : North-North-West : North : Cirrus above Cumulostratus : Cirrus : 72
: 94 : 97 : 86 : -.
19 : North : North-East : Cumulostratus : Cumulostratus : 77 : 97 : 96 :
88 : Hot wind.
20 : North-West : North-West : Clear : Clear : 76 : 94 : 91 : 84 : -.
21 : West-North-West : - : - : - : 74 : 94 : 97 : 86 : -.
22 : North-East : East : - : Thunderclouds : 74 : 97 : 92 : 82 : -.
23 : - : North-North-West : Overcast : - : 75 : 89 : 88 : 80 : Fine but
cloudy.
24 : East : East-South-East : Rain : Rain : 73 : 74 : 73 : 70 : Steady
small rain.
25 : South-East : South-East : Overcast : Overcast : 68 : 82 : 81 : 68 :
Continuing overcast.
26 : West-South-West : South-West : Cirrus above Cumulostratus : - : 58 :
84 : 78 : 62 : Clear fine weather.
27 : South-West : - : Cirrus : - : 61 : 85 : 88 : 80 : Fresh breeze.
28 : North-West : Light East-South-East : - : Clear : 64 : 85 : 86 : 78 :
-.
29 : North-North-West : South-West : - : Cirrus : 66 : 86 : 84 : 78 : -.
30 : North-East : North-North-East : Cirrocumulus : - : 65 : 92 : 88 : 76
: Fine cool breezes.
31 : - : East-North-East : Overcast : - : 68 : 86 : 83 : 79 : -.
February:
1 : East-North-East : - : Cirrus : - : 69 : 94 : 90 : 82 : -.
2 : North-East : North-East : - : - : 68 : 96 : 89 : 86 : -.
3 : North-North-East : East-North-East : Clear : Cumulus : 70 : 97 : 89 :
88 : Clear but sultry.
4 : East : East-South-East : Cumulus : - : 72 : 98 : 92 : 88 : -.
5 : North-East : North-East : Clear : Clear : 74 : 98 : 90 : 89 : -.
6 : Light North-East airs : - : - : - : 68 : 97 : 90 : 88 : -.
7 : East-North-East : - : - : - : 70 : 94 : 88 : 82 : -.
8 : South-South-East : South : Cirrus : Cumulus : 70 : 97 : 80 : 84 :
Cloudy.
9 : South-East : South-East : Clear : Clear : 66 : 100 : 96 : 88 : A
refreshing breeze.
10 : East-South-East : East-South-East : Cumulus : Cumulus : 68 : 97 : 94
: 84 : -.
11 : South-East : East : Clear : Cumulostratus : 63 : 92 : 93 : 85 : -.
12 : - : South-East : - : Clear : 65 : 97 : 101 : 86 : -.
13 : South-South-East : East : Cirrus : Overcast : 68 : 97 : 84 : 73 :
Strong breeze.
14 : East-South-East : - : Rain : Rain : 72 : 73.5 : 72 : 72 : Heavy
rains with strong squalls of wind.
15 : North-North-East : North : - : - : 74 : 76 : 75 : 72 : -.
16 : South-South-West : South-South-West : - : Cumulus : 73 : 76 : 77 :
72 : Changeable, the wind shifting in all quarters.
17 : North-West : - : Cirrus : Thunderclouds : 69 : 88 : 93 : 83 : Fair
weather.
18 : North : North-East : Cirrus above Cumulus : Cumulus : 68 : 90 : 95 :
80 : -.
19 : North-East : North-North-West : Cumulus : - : 72 : 96 : 100 : 83 :
Cloudy.
20 : East : North-East : Showers : Thunderclouds : 69 : 88 : 93 : 83 :
A.M. showery and threatening rain.
21 : North-North-West : North-West : Cumulus : - : 72 : 93 : 98 : 83 :
Sultry.
22 : Calm : Calm : Cirrus above Cumulus : Clear : 69.5 : 94 : 96 : 83.5 :
-.
23 : - : Light South Airs : Cumulus : Cumulus : 71 : 95 : 96 : 83 : Fine.
24 : Light South Airs : West : Cirrus : Cirrus : 72 : 93 : 88 : 82 : -.
25 : Calm : South : Cirrus above Cumulus : Thunderclouds : 71.5 : 95 : 96
: 83 : Light thundershowers.
26 : South-South-West : South-West : Cumulus : Cumulus : 69.5 : 76 : 74 :
70 : Fine weather but overcast.
27 : Light North-East : Light North-East : - : - : 66 : 82 : 84 : 72 : -.
28 : South : South : Cirrus above Cumulus : Cirrus above Cumulus : 59 :
88 : 87 : 80 : -.
29 : Calm : North-North-West : Overcast : Overcast : 69.5 : 83 : 80 : 72
: Cloudy, likely to rain.
...
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION SENT TO EXPLORE THE COURSE OF THE RIVER DARLING,
IN 1835,
BY ORDER OF THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT.