Change the route to trace the course of the Gwydir.
A native village of bowers.
Effect of sudden moisture on the wheels.
Tortuous course of the Gwydir.
Lines of irrigation across the plains.
Heavy rain.
Crested pigeon.
The party impeded by the soft state of the surface.
Lagoons near the river.
Excursion northward.
Reach a broad sheet of water.
Position of the party.
The common course of the river, and the situation of the range
considered.
Nondescript tree and fruit.
Plains of rich soil, beautifully wooded.
Small branches of the Gwydir.
Much frequented by the natives.
Laughable interview of Dawkins with a tribe.
Again reach the Gwydir.
A new cucumber.
Cross the river and proceed northward.
A night without water.
Man lost.
Continue northward.
Water discovered by my horse.
Native weirs for catching fish.
Arrive at a large and rapid river.
Send back for the party on the Gwydir.
Abundance of three kinds of fish.
Preparations for crossing the river.
Natives approach in the night.
View from one tree fastened to another.
Mr. White arrives with the party and lost man.
Detained by natives.
Mr. White crosses the river.
Marks of floods on trees.
Man lost in the woods.
Natives' method of fishing.
Native dog.
Mr. White's account of the river.
CHANGE THE ROUTE TO TRACE THE COURSE OF THE GWYDIR.
The line of our route to this river described no great detour, and the
trees being marked, as also the ground, by the cartwheels, Mr. Finch
could have no difficulty in following our track THUS far. We were now
however to turn from a northern, to a western course, and I accordingly
explained this to Mr. Finch in a letter which I deposited in a marked
tree, as arranged with him before I set out.
January 10.
This morning it rained heavily, but we left the encampment at six to
pursue the course of the Gwydir. The deep and extensive hollows formed by
the floods of this river compelled us to travel southward for several
miles.
A NATIVE VILLAGE OF BOWERS.
In crossing one hollow we passed among the huts of a native tribe. They
were tastefully distributed amongst drooping acacias and casuarinae; some
resembled bowers under yellow fragrant mimosae; some were isolated under
the deeper shades of casuarinae; while others were placed more socially,
three or four together, fronting to one and the same hearth. Each hut was
semicircular, or circular; the roof conical, and from one side a flat
roof stood forward like a portico, supported by two sticks. Most of them
were close to the trunk of a tree, and they were covered, not as in other
parts, by sheets of bark, but with a variety of materials, such as reeds,
grass, and boughs. The interior of each looked clean and to us, passing
in the rain, gave some idea not only of shelter, but even of comfort and
happiness. They afforded a favourable specimen of the taste of the gins,
whose business it usually is to construct the huts. This village of
bowers also occupied more space than the encampments of native tribes in
general; choice shady spots seemed to have been an object, and had been
selected with care.
EFFECT OF SUDDEN MOISTURE ON THE WHEELS.
We had at length been able to turn westward, keeping the river trees in
view when, the rain continuing, we began to experience the effects of
moisture on the felloes of the wheels. The heat and contraction had
lately obliged us to tighten and wedge them to such a degree that now,
when the ground had become wet, the expansion of the whole broke the
tirering of the wheel. Having no forge we could only attempt the
necessary repairs with a common fire, and for this purpose I left three
men with Mr. White; and I resumed the journey with the rest of the party.
The rain continuing, the soft ground so clogged the wheels that the
draught was very distressing to the bullocks. We pursued a westerly
direction for five miles over ground thinly wooded, with patches of open
plain. Changing our course to 60 degrees west of north, we traversed a
very extensive tract of clear ground until, after crossing four miles and
a half of it, we reached a bend of the river, and at three P.M. encamped
on an open spot a quarter of a mile from it. At five o'clock the other
cart came up, having been substantially repaired, by taking off the ring,
shortening the felloes, closing them on the spokes, and then replacing
the ring again by drilling two holes through it.
January 11.
Pursuing a westerly course I found the river on my right at five miles.
At a mile further it crossed my intended line of route, and obliged me to
turn south-south-west, in which direction we intercepted the junction of
the dry river, named Kareen, which we crossed on the 8th instant. The bed
above the junction was narrow but deep, and the permanent character of
its banks gave to this channel the appearance of a considerable
tributary, which it probably may be at some seasons, although then dry.
In a section of the bank near the junction, I observed a bed of
calcareous tuff. The passage of this channel was easiest for the carts at
the spot where it joined that of the Gwydir. We travelled, after
crossing, along the north-western skirts of extensive open plains, and
thus reached, at five miles further, another line of trees, enclosing a
chain of ponds, on which we encamped, after a journey of twelve miles.
TORTUOUS COURSE OF THE GWYDIR.
January 12.
I continued the westerly course through woods until at three miles we
fell in with the river, and on turning to the left in order to avoid its
immediate banks, a large lagoon also obstructed our progress. The
tortuous course of the river was such that it was only by pursuing a
direction parallel to the general course we could hope to make sufficient
progress. But in exploring the general course only of rivers the
traveller must still grope his way occasionally; for here, after turning
the lagoon, we again encountered the river taking such a bend southward
that we were compelled to travel towards the east, and even northward of
east, to avoid the furrowed ground on its immediate bank.
LINES OF IRRIGATION ACROSS THE PLAINS.
At length we reached an open tract across which we travelled in a
south-west direction about eight miles, when we arrived at one of those
watercourses or chains of ponds which always have the appearance of being
on the highest parts of the plains. As the general course of this, as far
as it could be seen, was nearly east and west, I thought it might be the
same as the channel which I had named Wheel Ponds on the 7th instant; but
the range of these chains of ponds, not being confined by any hills of
note, I could not be certain as to the identity, or whether such channels
did not separate into different branches on that level country. The ponds
they contained, even during the dry season, and the permanent character
of their banks, each lined with a single row of trees throughout a
meandering course over naked plains, bespoke a providential arrangement
for the support of life in these melancholy wastes, which, indeed,
redeemed them from the character of deserts. We encamped on this chain of
ponds, having first crossed the channel, that we might have no impediment
before us, in the morning; experience having taught us that the cattle
could overcome a difficulty of this kind better when warmed to their work
than at first starting from their feeding-place.
HEAVY RAIN--UNABLE TO PROCEED.
Some very heavy thundershowers fell, but the sky became clear in the
evening so that we ascertained the latitude to be 29 degrees 39 minutes
49 seconds South. We also obtained the bearing of Mount Riddell, and
other points of the Nundewar range, making our latitude 146 degrees 37
minutes 30 seconds East.
CRESTED PIGEON.
On these ponds we first saw the beautiful crested pigeon mentioned by Mr.
Oxley as frequenting the neighbourhood of the marshes of the Macquarie.
THE PARTY IMPEDED BY THE SOFT STATE OF THE SURFACE.
January 13.
We packed up our tents to proceed on our journey as usual, the weather
being beautiful; but after three hours of excessive toil the bullocks had
not advanced two miles, because the stiff clay so clogged the wheels that
it could not be easily removed. Seeing the cattle so distressed I was
compelled to encamp, and await the effect of the sunshine and the breeze
on the clammy surface.
LAGOONS NEAR THE RIVER.
In the meantime I rode northward towards the river accompanied by Mr.
White and, at about a mile from the tents, we found one of the lagoons
which are supplied by its floods. The margin was thickly imprinted with
the marks of small naked feet, in all probability those of the gins and
children whose most constant food, in these parts, appeared to be a
large, freshwater mussel. We next traced the course of the river westward
for about five miles, being guided by the line of river trees. When we
arrived we found within them a still lagoon of deep water, the banks
thereof being steep like a river, and enclosing the water within a very
tortuous canal, or channel, which I had no doubt belonged to the river.
To the southward the whole country was clear of wood, and presented one
general slope towards the line of the river.
From our camp on the plain Mount Riddell bore 123 degrees 30 minutes
East.
THE SURFACE AGAIN HARDENED.
January 14.
After an unusually hot night the morning broke amid thunderclouds which
threatened, by another shower, to destroy our hopes of advancing this day
and the next at least. Nevertheless, we lost no time in yoking the cattle
and proceeding: for the heat and drought of the previous day had already
formed a crust upon which the animals could travel. Meanwhile the thunder
roared, and heavy showers were to be seen falling in two directions. One
rain-cloud in the north-east, whence the wind blew strong, nearly
overtook us; while another in the south-west exhausted itself on the
Nundewar range. But as the wind increased the storm-clouds sank rapidly
towards the part of the horizon whence it came, until the beams of the
ascending sun at length overwhelmed them with a glorious flood of light,
and introduced a day of brilliant sunshine.
EXCURSION NORTHWARD.
We traversed, as rapidly as we could, these precarious plains, keeping
the woods which enveloped the Gwydir on our right: and thus, at the end
of twelve miles, we arrived on the banks of a lagoon, apparently a
continuation of the line of ponds or river, which had proved such a
providential relief to us after our severe suffering from want of water
under Mount Frazer.
REACH A BROAD SHEET OF WATER.
Here however we found a broad and extensive lagoon nearly level with its
banks and covered with ducks. It had the winding character and uniformity
of width of a river, but no current. I thought this reach might also
contain some surplus water of the Namoi, which could not be far distant
for we had now reached those low levels to which we had previously traced
the course of that river. We travelled along the bank of this fine piece
of water for two miles, and found its breadth to be very uniform. An arm
trending northward then lay in our way. The country was full of holes and
deep rents or cracks, but the soil was loose, and bare as a new-ploughed
field. I therefore withdrew the carts to where we first came on the
lagoon; not only for the sake of grass, but that we might continue our
route over the firmer ground which appeared to the eastward.
POSITION OF THE PARTY. THE COMMON COURSE OF THE RIVER AND THE SITUATION
OF THE RANGE CONSIDERED.
I had now on my map the Nundewar range with the courses of the Namoi on
one side, and the Gwydir on the other. I was between these two rivers,
and at no great distance from either; Mount Riddell, the nearest point of
the range, bore 21 1/2 degrees South of East, being distant 42 miles. The
opposite bearing or 20 degrees North of West might therefore be
considered to express the common direction of these waters. In a country
so liable to inundation as the district between these rivers appeared to
be, it was a primary object with us to travel along the highest or driest
part, and we could only look for this advantage in the above direction,
or parallel to and midway between the rivers. We could in this manner
trace out their junction with more certainty, and so terminate thus far
the survey of both by the determination of a point so important in
geography. The soil of these level open tracts consisted of a rich,
dark-coloured clay. The lagoon was marked by a row of stunted trees which
grew along its edge on each side, so that the line could be distinguished
from a great distance eastward, and appeared to be connected with the
ponds of Gorolei.
NONDESCRIPT TREE AND FRUIT.
Among the trees growing along the margin of this lagoon were several
which were new to me; particularly one which bore clusters of a fruit
resembling a small russet apple and about an inch in diameter. The skin
was rough, the pulp of a rich crimson colour not unlike that of the
prickly-pear, and it had an agreeable acid flavour. This pulp covered a
large rough stone containing several seeds, and it was evidently eaten by
the natives as great numbers of the bare stones lay about. The foliage of
the tree very much resembled the white cedar of the colonists, and milk
exuded from the stalk or leaves when broken.
A great variety of ducks and other waterfowl covered this fine piece of
water. We made the latitude of the camp 29 degrees 49 minutes South, the
longitude 149 degrees 28 minutes East.
January 15.
The country to the northward seemed so low and the course of the Gwydir,
amid so many lagoons, so doubtful that I considered it advisable to ride
in that direction before we ventured to advance with our carts. I
therefore set out this morning accompanied by Mr. White in the direction
already mentioned, of 20 degrees west of north--so that, in returning,
the cone of Mount Riddell might guide us to the camp without any
necessity for continuing the use of the compass, which occasions much
delay. In such cases a hill, a star, or the unerring skill of a native,
is very convenient as obviating the necessity for repeatedly observing
the compass, in returning through pathless woods towards any point which
might easily be missed without such precautions.
PLAINS OF RICH SOIL, BEAUTIFULLY WOODED.
We found in the course of a ride of twenty miles from the camp a much
better country for travelling over than that in the immediate vicinity of
the lagoon. We crossed, at eleven miles, a line of ponds in a deep
channel whereof the bank seemed the highest ground; and beyond them was a
rich plain with a few clumps of trees; where the grass also was
remarkably good. At twenty miles, the length of our ride, we fell in with
a second chain of ponds, beyond which we saw another plain. We were
delighted with the prospect of so favourable a country for extending our
journey, and not less so with the apparent turn of the Gwydir, as
indicated by its non-appearance in our ride thus far. It was obvious that
the more this river turned northward the greater would be the probability
that it might lead to a channel unconnected with that of the Darling--and
terminate in some still greater water, or open out a field of useful
discovery.
SMALL BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.
The direction of the channels we had already crossed however was somewhat
to the south of west--and it was difficult to account for their waters
otherwise--than by supposing that they came from the Gwydir.
MUCH FREQUENTED BY THE NATIVES.
We could trace their course to a remote distance by the smoke of the
fires of the native population. The numerous marks of feet in the banks,
with the abundant remains of mussels and bones of aquatic birds proved
that human existence was limited to these channels; not only on account
of water, but of those animals, birds, and fishes also, which are man's
natural prey.
In returning we explored the western termination of the lagoon on which
we had encamped, and thus ascertained that it was not part of any channel
of flooded waters. Beyond the lagoon was a plain, apparently subject to
inundation, and bounded at the distance of some miles by a line of trees
which, in all probability, defined the course of the Namoi.
January 16.
The party proceeded along the course I had traced the day before. The
country as far as the first chain of ponds was full of holes, which
evidently were at certain seasons filled with water; and the height to
which the inundations rose was marked on the trunks of the trees by a
dark stain which, to a certain height, seemed universal. Considering
these proofs of extensive flooding, and the soft nature of the soil we
were then crossing, it was obvious that a rainy season would render our
return impracticable, at least with the carts. For the first time, and
with great reluctance, we left the high ground behind us to traverse a
region subject to inundation, without the prospect of a single hill to
which we might repair in case of necessity. It was nevertheless
indispensable that we should find the river Gwydir and cross it before we
could hope to travel under more favourable circumstances.
RICH PLAINS.
Beyond the first channel we traversed an open plain of rich soil similar
to that of the plains near Mount Riddell.
We reached the second channel at a higher part than that attained by me
previously, so that the distance traversed by the party was only
seventeen and a half miles, as determined by the latitude; and this
journey, although very distressing to the cattle, was accomplished by
half-past two. Thermometer 96 degrees. Here the ponds opened into a large
lagoon covered with ducks. It was surrounded with the remains of numerous
fires of natives, beside which lay heaps of mussel shells (unio) mixed
with bones of the pelican and kangaroo. Latitude 29 degrees 43 minutes 3
seconds South.
January 17.
Leaving our encampment at six A.M. we first crossed a small plain, then
some forest land, and beyond that entered on an open plain still more
extensive, but bounded by a scrub, at which we arrived after travelling
seven miles. The soil of this last plain was very fine, trees grew upon
it in beautiful groups--the Acacia pendula again appearing. The grass, of
a delicate green colour, resembled a field of young wheat. The scrub
beyond was close and consisted of a variety of dark-leaved shrubs, among
which the eucalypti were almost the only trees to which I was not a
stranger. Here I halted the carts while I penetrated three miles into
this scrub, accompanied by Mr. White, in hopes of finding either the
Namoi or the Gwydir--but without success. Continuing the journey in the
direction of 37 degrees West of North we entered an open alley which had
the appearance of being sometimes the bed of a watercourse. It terminated
however in higher ground where bulrushes grew, and which seemed very
strange, because we then approached a much more open and elevated
country. Most of the ground was covered with hibiscus* (with red stalk
and small flower) which grew to the height of twenty inches and
alternated with patches of luxuriant grass, Acacia pendula, and
eucalyptus. At eleven miles we encountered a channel in which were many
ponds, its direction being, like that of the others we had crossed, to
the southward of west. Here we encamped, the bullocks having been much
fatigued, and also cut in the necks by the yokes. The bed of these ponds
was soft, and it required some search before a good place could be found
for the passage of our carts: when this was accomplished, and the camp
selected, I rode forward in a north-west direction, anxious to know more
of the country before us.
(*Footnote. Hibiscus (Trionum) tridactylites, Lindley manuscripts;
annuus, pilosus, foliis radicalibus subrotundis integerrimis caulinis
digitatis; laciniis pinnatifidis lobis distantibus cuneatis apice
dentatis, calyce piloso.)
LAUGHABLE INTERVIEW OF DAWKINS WITH A TRIBE.
I perceived the fires of the natives at no great distance from our camp,
and Dawkins went forward taking with him a tomahawk and a small loaf. He
soon came upon a tribe of about thirty men, women, and children, seated
by the ponds, with half a kangaroo and some crayfish cooked before them,
and also a large vessel of bark containing water. Now Dawkins must have
been, in appearance, so different to all the ideas these poor people had
of their fellow-men, that on the first sight of such an apparition it was
not surprising that, after a moment's stare, they precipitately took to
the pond, floundering through it, some up to the neck, to the opposite
bank. He was a tall, spare figure, in a close white dress, surmounted by
a broad-brimmed straw hat, the tout-ensemble somewhat resembling a
mushroom; and these dwellers by the waters might well have believed, from
his silent and unceremonious intrusion, that he had risen from the earth
in the same manner. The curiosity of the natives, who had vanished as
fast as they could, at length overcame their terrors so far as to induce
them to peep from behind the trees at their mysterious visitor. Dawkins,
not in the least disconcerted, made himself at home at the fires, and on
seeing them on the other side, began his usual speech: "What for you
jerran budgery whitefellow?"* etc. He next drew forth his little loaf,
endeavouring to explain its meaning and use by eating it; and he then
began to chop a tree by way of showing off the tomahawk; but the
possession of a peculiar food of his own astounded them still more. His
final experiment was attended with no better effect; for when he sat down
by their fire, by way of being friendly, and began to taste their
kangaroo, they set up a shout which induced him to make his exit with the
same celerity which no doubt had rendered his debut outrageously opposed
to their ideas of etiquette, which imperatively required that loud
cooeys** should have announced his approach before he came within a mile
of their fires. Dawkins had been cautioned as to the necessity for using
this method of salutation, but he was an old tar, and Jack likes his own
way of proceeding on shore; besides, in this case, Dawkins came unawares
upon them, according to his own account; and it was only by subsequent
experience that we learnt the danger of thus approaching the aboriginal
inhabitants. Some of this party carried spears on their shoulders or
trailing in their hands, and the natives are never more likely to use
such weapons than when under the impulse of sudden terror.
(*Footnote. "Why are you afraid of a good white man?" etc.)
(**Footnote. The natives' mode of hailing each other when at a distance
in the woods. It is so much more convenient than our own holla, or
halloo, that it is universally adopted by the colonists of New South
Wales.)
I continued my ride for six miles in a north-west direction without
discovering any indication of either river; on the contrary, the country
was chiefly open, being beautifully variegated with clumps of picturesque
trees. The weather was very hot until a thunder-shower fell and cooled
the air in some degree. During the night the mosquitoes were very
troublesome; and the men rolled about in the grass unable to find rest.
January 18.
At half-past six we proceeded in a north-west direction until at seven
miles a thick scrub of acacias obliged us to turn a little to the
northward. When we had advanced ten miles a burnt forest, with numerous
columns of smoke arising from different parts of the country before us,
proved almost beyond doubt that we were at length approaching the river.
Satisfied that the dense line of wood whence these columns of smoke arose
was the river, I turned westward for the purpose, in the first place, of
proceeding along the skirts of it in the opener ground; secondly, that
the natives, whose voices resounded within the woods, might have time to
see us, and, thirdly, that we might make out a day's journey before we
approached the riverbank.
AGAIN REACH THE GWYDIR.
From west I at length bent our course north-west, and finally northward,
thus arriving on the banks of the Gwydir after a journey of fifteen
miles. But here the river was so much altered in its character that we
could never have been induced by mere appearance to believe this stream
was the same river which we came upon about a degree further to the
eastward. The banks were low and water-worn, the southern or left bank
being in general the steepest, its height about 14 feet, the breadth was
insignificant, not more than 12 or 14 feet; the current slow but
constant; and the water of a whitish colour. I at first supposed it might
be only a branch of the river we had seen above, until I ascertained, by
sending Mr. White to examine it upwards, and a man on horseback
downwards, that it preserved the same attenuated character in both
directions. The course appeared to be very tortuous, and it flowed
through a soft absorbent soil in which no rock of any kind could be seen.
A NEW CUCUMBER.
In the rich soil near the water we found a species of cucumber about the
size of a plum, the flower being of a purple colour. In taste it
resembled a cucumber, but that it was also very bitter. Mr. White and I
peppered it and washed the slices with vinegar and then chewed it, but
neither of us had the courage to swallow it. The character of the spiders
was very strange; and it seemed as if we had arrived in a new world of
entomology. They resembled an enamelled decoration, the body consisting
of a hard shelly coat of dark blue colour, symmetrically spotted with
white, and it was nearly circular, being armed with six sharp projecting
points.* The latitude of this camp was 29 degrees 28 minutes 34 seconds
South.
(*Footnote. An undescribed species of Cancriform epeira, belonging to the
subgenus Gasteracantha of M. Hahn.)
REDUCED STATE OF THE RIVER.
The general course of the Gwydir appeared to be nearly westward, between
the first and last points thus ascertained by us; and this direction
being also in continuation of the river seen so much further to the
eastward by Mr. Cunningham we could entertain no doubt as to the
identity. The channels we had crossed before we came to the running
stream at our present encampment could only be accounted for as separate
ducts for the swollen waters of the river when no longer confined by any
immediate high ground to one great channel; and hence the attenuated
state (as we inferred) of the actual bed of the stream. This I resolved
to trace through one day's journey, and then to cross, if we found no
change, and so proceed northward.
January 19.
We travelled as the dense line of river-wood permitted for eleven miles;
the ground outside this belt being in general open and firmer than that
nearer the river, which was distinguished by certain inequalities, and
was besides rather thickly wooded. We found that on a bearing of 20
degrees south of west we just cleared the southern bends of the stream.
We heard the natives in the woods during our journey but none approached
the party. In order to encamp we directed our course northward, and
making the riverbank after travelling one mile, we encamped upon it. I
then sent Mr. White due north in order to ascertain if any other channel
existed, but he found, on the contrary, that the ground rose gradually
beyond the river, which convinced me that this, in which the water
flowed, was the most northerly channel. The latitude was 29 degrees 31
minutes 49 seconds South.
January 20.
I gave the party a day's repose that I might put my map together and duly
consider the general course of the waters as they appeared thereon, and
also the actual character of the stream on which we were encamped. The
banks consisted of soft earth, having a uniform slope, and they were
marked with various horizontal lines, probably denoting the height which
the water had attained during different floods. The river had a peculiar
uniformity of width and would therefore but for the tortuous course, have
resembled a canal. The width was small in proportion to the depth, and
both were greatest at the sharp bends of the channel. The water was of a
white clay colour. The ground to the distance of half a mile from each
bank was broken and furrowed into grassy hollows resembling old channels;
so that the slightest appearance of such inequality was a sure indication
of the river being near while we travelled parallel to its course. The
whole of the country beyond was so level that the slightest appearance of
a hollow was a most welcome sight as it relieved us from any despair of
finding water.
At four o'clock this day the thermometer stood at 97 degrees, the clouds
were cumulostratus and cirrus, and there was a good breeze from the
north-east.
CROSS THE RIVER AND PROCEED NORTHWARD.
January 21.
The cattle being much fatigued by incessant travelling during great heat
I left most of them at this camp with Mr. White and half the men of the
party, and I crossed the river with the other portion and some
pack-animals carrying a small supply of provisions, some blankets, etc.
The river was accessible to the cattle at only one place, the muddy bank
by the water's edge being so soft that they were everywhere else in
danger of sinking; the men were therefore obliged to carry the packages
across and load the animals on the opposite bank. This work was completed
by ten A.M. and we proceeded due north from the depot camp. We soon saw a
flock of eight emus. The country consisted of open forest which, growing
gradually thinner, at length left intervals of open plain. The ground
seemed to rise for the first mile, and then to slope northward towards a
wooded flat which was likely to contain water, although we found none
there. Penetrating next through a narrow strip of casuarinae scrub, we
found the remains of native huts; and beyond this scrub we crossed a
beautiful plain; covered with shining verdure, and ornamented with trees
which, although dropt in nature's careless haste, gave the country the
appearance of an extensive park. We next entered a brush of Acacia
pendula, which grew higher and more abundant than I had seen it
elsewhere.
A NIGHT WITHOUT WATER.
After twelve the day became excessively warm, and although no water could
be found we were compelled to encamp about two P.M., one of the party
(Burnett) having become seriously ill. As the country appeared to decline
towards some wooded hollows I hoped that one of these might be found to
contain a pool, especially as the wood appeared to consist of that
species of casuarina which, in the colony, is termed swamp-oak, and which
usually grows in moist situations. Subsequent experience however proved
quite the reverse; for, on exploring the deepest hollows and densest
thickets about our camp, not a hollow containing the least moisture could
be found. Thus the cattle were compelled to endure this privation once
more, after a hard day's work, and during an unusually hot evening.
MAN LOST.
To add to our distress The Doctor, as Souter was termed by his comrades,
having, as soon as we halted, set out in search of water, with the
tea-kettle in his hand, did not return.
When the sun had nearly set a black swan was observed high in the air,
slowly winging its way towards the south-west, and many smaller birds
appeared to fly in the same direction. Even the sight of an aquatic bird
was refreshing to us, but this one did not promise much for the country
to the northward for, at that time of the evening, we might safely
conclude that the greater body of water lay to the south-west in the
direction of the swan's flight. I found the latitude of this camp to be
29 degrees 23 minutes 54 seconds South, making our distance from the camp
on the river about ten miles.
January 22.
The non-appearance of Souter occasioned me much uneasiness; fortunately
the trees were marked along our line of route from the river, and it was
probable that he would this morning find the line, and either follow us
or retrace his steps towards the camp on the river. The men who know him
best thought he would prefer the latter alternative, as he had been
desirous of remaining at the depot.
CONTINUE NORTHWARD.
This was likely however to occasion some inconvenience to us, as he was a
useful hand, and I did not despair, even then, of finding some use for
the tea-kettle. Burnett had recovered; the morning was clear, with a
pleasant breeze from the north-east, and the irresistible attraction of a
perfectly unknown region still led us northward.
The undulations were scarcely perceptible, and the woods were disposed in
narrow strips enclosing plains on which grew abundance of grass. They
occupied the lowest parts, and umbrageous clumps of casuarinae in such
situations often led me on unsuccessful searches for water, until I was
almost convinced that these trees only grew where none could possibly
ever be.
The prospect of finding any at length seemed almost hopeless, but I had
determined to try the result of as long a journey as could be
accomplished this day, with the intention of giving, in the event of
failure, the little water remaining in our cask to the animals; and then
to retrace our steps during the night and the cool part of the following
day so as to regain, if possible, the depot camp next evening.
Meanwhile my party, faint with heat and thirst, toiled after me. In some
parts of these parched plains numerous prints of human feet appeared, but
the soil which had evidently been very soft when these impressions were
made was now baked as hard as brick, and although we felt that:
On desert sands twere joy to scan
The rudest steps of fellow man,
these made us only more sensible of the altered state of the surface at
that time. Water had evidently once lodged in every hollow, and the
prints of the kangaroo when pursued by the natives and impeded by the mud
were visible in various places.
At five miles we entered a wood of pinetrees (callitris) the first we had
seen since we left the Namoi; but on passing through it we discovered no
other change. A thick wood of Acacia pendula fell next in our way, and
then several patches of casuarinae. On approaching one of these I
observed a very slight hollow and, on following it to the right, or
eastward, about a mile (the party having in the meantime halted) I
perceived a few dry leaves in a heap, as if gathered by water falling in
that direction.
WATER DISCOVERED BY MY HORSE.
Trifling as this circumstance was it was nevertheless unusual on that
level surface, and I endeavoured to trace the slope downwards until my
horse, who at other times would neigh after his companions, here pulled
hard on the rein, as if to cross a slight rise before me. I laid the
bridle on his neck while he proceeded eagerly forward over the rise, and
through some wood, beyond which my eyes were once more blessed with the
sight of several ponds of water, with banks of shining verdure, the whole
extended in a line which resembled the bed of a considerable stream. I
galloped back with the good news to the party whose desperate thirst
seemed to make them incredulous, especially as I continued our line of
route northward until it intercepted, at about a mile on, as I foresaw it
would, this chain of ponds. It was still early; but we had already
accomplished a good day's journey, and we could thus encamp and turn our
cattle to browse on the luxuriant verdure which surrounded these ponds.
They were wide, deep, full, and close to each other, being separated only
by grassy intervals resembling dykes.
NATIVE WEIRS FOR CATCHING FISH.
Drift timber and other fluviatile relics lay high on the banks, and
several weirs for catching fish, worked very neatly, stood on ground
quite dry and hard. Lower down, as indicated by the flood-marks, the
banks were much more broken, and the channel seemed deeper, while
enormous bluegum-trees (eucalypti) grew on the banks, and I was therefore
of opinion that some larger river was before us at no great distance. I
did not explore this channel further, being desirous to refresh my horses
and rest the party for continuing our journey next morning. In the soil
here the only rock I found was a large, hard boulder, being a
conglomerate of pebbles and grains of quartz, cemented by decomposed
felspar or clay. Latitude 29 degrees 9 minutes 51 seconds South.
ARRIVE AT A LARGE AND RAPID RIVER.
January 23.
After crossing the line of ponds and a slight elevation beyond them we
came upon a channel of considerable breadth, which contained several
other very large ponds separated by quicksands, which afforded but a
precarious passage for the pack-animals. Both banks were steep, the
average width exceeding fifty yards. Beyond this river channel the wood
consisted chiefly of casuarinae. We next penetrated through two scrubs of
dwarf eucalypti; and some trees of the callitris were also seen. At six
miles the woods assumed a grander character; masses of casuarinae
enclosed open spaces covered with rich grass; and, being in some
directions extensive, afforded park-like vistas, which had a pleasing
effect from the rich combination of verdure and shade in a season of
excessive heat. In one of these grassy alleys a large kangaroo was seen,
the first since we left the upper part of the Gwydir. The absence of this
animal from the plains and low grounds was remarkable, and we had reason
to conclude that he seldom frequents those parts. At eight miles our
course was intercepted by a deep and rapid river, the largest that we had
yet seen. I had approached within a few yards of the brink; and I was not
aware of its being near until I saw the opposite water-worn shore, and
the living waters hurrying along to the westward. They were white and
turbid, and the banks, consisting of clay, were nearly perpendicular at
this point, and about twenty feet higher than the surface of the stream.
On further examination I found that the course was very tortuous and the
water deep. My horse was however got across by a man wading up to the
neck. The softness of the clay near the stream at some parts, and the
steep water-worn face of the banks at others, rendered the passage
difficult.
SEND BACK FOR THE PARTY ON THE GWYDIR.
We were all delighted however to meet such an obstruction, and I chose a
favourable spot for our camp within a bend of the river; and I made
arrangements for bringing forward the party left with Mr. White on the
Gwydir, also for the construction of a boat by preparing a saw-pit and
looking for wood favourable for that purpose. There was abundance of rich
grass along the banks of this river; and here our horses at length
enjoyed some days of rest.
January 24.
Early this morning I sent back a party of the men, with the freshest of
the bullocks to Mr. White, to whom I also enclosed a letter for Mr. Finch
which I requested might be concealed in a tree with certain marks. I
hoped however that by that time Mr. Finch might have overtaken Mr.
White's party. Four men remained with me, namely two carpenters, a
sawyer's man, and my own servant. The morning was cloudy, and a
refreshing shower fell at nine A.M.
ABUNDANCE OF THREE KINDS OF FISH.
We soon found that this river contained fish in great abundance, and of
three kinds at least: namely first, a firm but coarse-tasted fish, having
strong scales; this made a groaning noise when on the hook:* secondly,
the fish we had found in the Peel, commonly called by the colonists the
cod, although most erroneously, since it has nothing whatever to do with
malacopterygious fishes:** and thirdly, the eel-fish, which we had caught
at the lagoon near Tangulda.***
(*Footnote. Family, Percidae; Genus, Acerina; Subgenus, Cernua, Flem. or
Ruffe; Species, Cernua bidyana mihi, or Bidyan ruffe. Colour, brownish
yellow, with the belly silvery white. The three middle pectoral rays are
branched. The dorsals confluent. The first dorsal fin has 11 spines, the
ventrals having 1 + 6 rays, and the anals 3 + 6. See Plate 9.
Observation: Bidyan is the aboriginal name.)
(**Footnote. Family, Percidae; Genus, Acerina; Subgenus, Gristes, Cuv. or
Growler; Species, Gristes peelii mihi, or Cod-perch. Colour, light
yellow, covered with small irregular dusky spots, which get more
confluent towards the back. Throat pinkish, and belly silvery white.
Scales small, and concealed in a thick epidermis. Fins obscure. The
dorsals confluent. The first dorsal has 11 spines, and the caudal fin is
convex. Plate 6 figure 1. Observation: This fish may be identical with
the fish described by MM. Cuvier and Valenciennes Volume 3 page 45 under
the name of Gristes macquariensis: but it differs from their description
in not having the edge of the second dorsal and anal white; and besides
is in many respects very different from the figure given by M. Guerin of
the Gristes macquariensis in the Iconographie du Regne Animal.)
(***Footnote. Family, Siluridae, Cuv.; Genus, Plotosus, Lacepede, or
Eel-fish; Subgenus, Tandanus mihi; Species, Plotosus tandanus mihi; or
Tandan Eel-fish. Colour, silvery. The dorsal fin placed halfway between
the pectoral and ventral has six rays, of which the middle two are the
longest. Plate 6 figure 2. Observation: This is an Asiatic form of fish;
whereas the Gristes is an American form. Tandan is the aboriginal name.)
PREPARATIONS FOR CROSSING THE RIVER.
After maturely considering the prospects this river opened to us then,
before exploring its course, it remained questionable whether it did or
did not belong to the Darling. We were nearly in the prolongation of the
supposed course of that river, and still nearer to its supposed outlet on
the southern coast than we were to any part of the northern coast of
Australia. No rising ground could be seen to the northward or westward,
and whether we proceeded in a boat or along its bank it was desirable to
explore the course of this river downwards. The horses required rest, and
it was necessary to unite the party before this could be attempted. I
expected Mr. Finch to arrive with the stores, and in the meantime the
preparation of a strong boat was going forward, to be ready in case our
further discoveries might lead to navigable waters. With this view it was
made to take into three pieces. The bottom being nearly flat formed one
portion, and the two sides the others. They were to be united by small
screw-bolts, the carpenter having brought a number of these useful
articles for such purposes; and when the sides and bottom were detached
they could be carried on the carts. Thus we were to proceed with a
portable punt, ready for the passage of any river or water which might be
in our way.
January 25.
This day we laid down the keel and principal timbers of a boat to be
strongly planked, so as to be proof against the common drift-timber in
the river. For this part of the work we used bluegum (eucalyptus) the
only callitris we knew of being several miles back along the route.
At night some stars appeared, whereby I ascertained the latitude of this
camp to be 29 degrees 2 minutes south. The thermometer at noon was 76
degrees; and at four P.M. 82 degrees.
January 26.
A clear morning with a fine breeze; the thermometer which had ranged from
90 to 108 degrees during the two last months stood now at 64 degrees. To
breathe such refreshing air and not move forward was extremely irksome.
The river rose this day a quarter of an inch. Thermometer at six 64
degrees. Wind south. At noon 86 degrees.
NATIVES APPROACH IN THE NIGHT.
In the evening the sky became overcast with a cold and stormy wind. At
ten P.M. I was called out of my tent to look at a firestick which
appeared in motion amongst the trees north-eastward of our camp. We had
seen no natives, but their habit of carrying a light whenever they stir
at night (which they do but seldom) is well known; and the light we then
saw moved in the direction of our horses and saw-pit. Our numbers did not
admit of our keeping a watch, and although I had ordered the men to bring
dogs on this ride they had brought none; we could only therefore lie down
and trust to Providence.
VIEW FROM ONE TREE FASTENED TO ANOTHER.
January 27.
The clear cool weather continuing I endeavoured to obtain a view of the
horizon from a tree raised by block and tackle to the top of another; but
no point of high land appeared on any side to break a woody horizon as
level as the sea. At six A.M. thermometer 70 degrees; wind south.
The natives to the number of ten or twelve appeared on the opposite bank.
Our attention was first drawn to them by the snorting and starting of the
horses which happened to be grazing by the riverside. On seeing us
approach they suddenly disappeared. About a dozen eggs, white, and the
size of those of a blackbird, were found by one of the men in the sand
near the riverbank. Each contained a perfectly formed lacertine reptile.
This morning my attention was drawn by a noise resembling the growl of a
dog, when I perceived a black insect nearly as large as a bird carrying
something like a grasshopper, alight, and disappear in a hole. On
digging, it suddenly arose from amidst the dust and escaped; but we found
there several large larvae; this was the most bulky insect I ever saw. A
beautiful species of stilbum frequently visited my tent; its buzz, having
two distinct notes, had a very pleasing sound. The sandy banks abounded
with a species of monedula, and others of the Bembecidae tribe. In dead
trees we found the Scutellera corallifera as described in the Appendix to
Captain King's voyage.
This day the river fell nearly an inch.
MR. WHITE ARRIVES WITH THE PARTY AND LOST MAN.
January 28.
Mr. White arrived with the carts and the depot party, including Souter,
The Doctor, who had wandered from our camp in search of water on the 21st
instant.
DETAINED BY NATIVES.
His story was that on going about six miles from the camp he lost his
way, and fell in with the blacks, who detained him one day and two
nights, but having at length effected his escape while they were asleep
early on the second morning, he had made the best of his way towards the
Gwydir, and thus reached the depot camp.
MR. WHITE CROSSES THE RIVER.
This day Mr. White crossed the river and examined the country for several
miles beyond it, in search of the pine (or callitris) which we required
for the completion of our boat, but he found none in that direction.
MARKS OF FLOODS ON TREES.
About three miles to the north of our camp he came upon a chain of large
lagoons extending in a westerly direction, and the drift marks on trees
showed that at some seasons a considerable current of water flowed there
to the westward, rising occasionally to the height of ten or twelve feet
above the surface of these lagoons. He also saw a kangaroo, a
circumstance which indicated that higher forest land was not far distant.
Thermometer at six A.M. 67 degrees. Wind North-East high. Sky clear. At
noon thermometer 87, clear sky.
We now looked with some anxiety for Mr. Finch's arrival and, in order to
preserve our provisions as long as possible, I determined to make the
abundance of fish available, by distributing fishing-hooks to the men,
and to reduce their weekly ration of pork from 3 1/2 to 2 pounds.
In fishing we were tolerably successful; but flour was the article of
which we stood most in need, and for this the country afforded no
substitute, although I reduced the allowance of that also. The only
starving members of the party were our unfortunate dogs, which had become
almost too weak to kill a kangaroo--had any been seen there; neither did
that region contain bandicoots which, in other situations, had been
occasionally caught about dead trees, with the assistance of some of the
watch-dogs. We were obliged to shoot hawks and crows, and boil them into
a mess, which served, at least, to keep these poor animals alive.
January 29.
The cart was sent back about twelve miles for some of the callitris trees
required for planking, none having been seen nearer to our camp.
MAN LOST IN THE WOODS.
William Woods, who had gone out in search of the spare cattle early in
the morning, did not return by one P.M., and as he was a good bushman, we
began to feel apprehensive that the natives had detained or perhaps
killed him. I therefore proceeded in search with four men, and scoured
the forest within five miles of the camp without discovering any traces
either of the natives or of him. On returning however at sunset, we had
the satisfaction to find that he had reached the camp about an hour
before us, having during the whole day been unable to find his way back
to our camp through the trackless forest.
Today the river fell another inch, and this failure of the waters, as
upon the Namoi, added much to the irksomeness of the delay necessary for
the completion of a boat. In the present case however more than on the
Namoi, the expected arrival of Mr. Finch, and the exhausted state of our
cattle, disposed me to give the party some days rest at so convenient a
point, and towards which I had indeed looked forward with this view, in
the efforts we made to attain it. The characters of my men were now
better known to me, and I could not help feeling some sympathy for The
Doctor, as the men called Souter. He was also what they termed a new
chum, or one newly arrived. He left the mess of his fellow prisoners, and
cooked and ate by himself. In figure he was the finest specimen of our
race in the party, and as he lay by his solitary fire, he formed a
striking foreground to the desert landscape. In his novitiate he was most
willing to do anything his fellows required, and I felt often disposed to
interfere when I overheard such words as "Doctor! go for a kettle of
water, while I light a fire," etc. Worthington, in particular, I
overheard, telling him he had been "a swell at home;" but a few days
afterwards The Doctor came to me, stating that an immediate operation was
necessary to save the life of Worthington, and demanding the dissecting
instruments. On inquiry I found that this man, alias Five-o'clock, had a
slight swelling in the groin, for which The Doctor's intended remedy, as
far as I could make out, was an incision in the lower part of the
abdomen. I gravely assured Five-o'clock that if The Doctor thought such
an operation necessary it must take place, although I should defer
lending him the instruments for a day or two. Thus I succeeded in
establishing the importance of The Doctor's position, and we heard no
more of his having been a swell--or of the swelling of Worthington who,
on that pretext, seemed inclined to escape work.
January 30.
The cart returned with some fine timber which was soon placed on the
saw-pit; meanwhile a stockyard for the cattle was erected on the higher
ground.
NATIVES' METHOD OF FISHING.
No fish could be caught this day, and we supposed that the natives were
busy taking them above and below our camp for, in their mode of fishing,
few can escape. We had previously seen the osier nettings erected by them
across the various currents, and especially in the Gwydir, where some had
been noticed of very neat workmanship. The frame of each trellis was as
well squared as if it had been the work of a carpenter, and the twigs
were inserted at regular intervals, so as to form, by crossing each
other, a strong and efficient kind of net or snare. Where these were
erected a small opening was left towards the middle of the current,
probably that some bag or netting might be applied there to receive the
fish while the natives in the river above should drive them towards it.
The river continued still to fall during the day.
NATIVE DOG.
January 31.
The sky overcast. A good supply of fish caught in the morning. A small
black native dog made its appearance about the camp, and was immediately
run down and worried by our dogs. From the miserable mangey appearance of
this animal I conjectured that it had belonged to the natives who were
probably skulking about us, and who are very much attached to their dogs.
I was therefore very sorry that this poor animal had been killed; and
that no traces might remain of our apparent want of kindness I ordered
the body to be burnt, and gave positive instructions to prevent strange
dogs being worried in future. This day we completed the planking of the
boat.
MR. WHITE'S ACCOUNT OF THE RIVER.
February 1.
The night had been calm and close; and just before daybreak distant
thunder resembling discharges of artillery was heard in the south-west.
The sun rose clear, but was soon obscured when the wind sprung up from
the north-east. I sent Mr. White with a party of men down the river to
clear away any trees likely to obstruct the boat, and to ascertain
whether any other impediments appeared in the channel. On his return he
reported that at the distance of some miles down the channel was filled
with dead trees of considerable size; and that in another place the
bottom consisted of flat rocks which occasioned a rapid or shallow of
considerable length, over which our boat, being made of very heavy
materials, could not be carried without considerable delay. This
unpleasant intelligence, and the continued subsidence of the stream,
determined me to explore its course with a party on horseback until I
could ascertain whether it took the desired direction, namely,
north-west; and whether at any lower point the channel improved so much
as to enable us to relieve the cattle of part, at least, of their load,
by carrying it in the boat. I was most desirous of leaving the cattle
there, and some of the party, to await the arrival of Mr. Finch, while I
continued our researches with the boat if we could possibly find water
sufficient for the purpose. This method of proceeding was contemplated in
my original plan on leaving Sydney, when I hoped to reach a navigable
stream where the cattle might refresh for the return journey, until the
party, thus enabled to extend its operations by water, might fall back on
some such depot.