A Bushranger's story.
My plan of exploration.
Preparations.
Departure from Sydney.
A garden.
Country between Sydney and the Hawkesbury.
Beyond the Hawkesbury.
Summit of Warrawolong.
Natives of Brisbane Water.
The Wollombi.
Valley of the Hunter.
Fossils of the Hunter.
Men employed on the expedition.
Equipment.
Burning grass.
Aborigines and Colonists.
Cambo, a wild native.
A Colonist of the right sort.
Escape of the Bushranger, The Barber.
Burning Hill of Wingen.
Approach Liverpool Range.
Cross it.
A sick tribe.
Interior waters.
Liverpool Plains.
Proposed route.
Horses astray.
A Squatter.
Native guide and his gin.
Modes of drinking au naturel.
Woods on fire.
Cross the Turi Range.
Arrive on the River Peel.
Fishes.
Another native guide.
Explore the Peel.
BUSHRANGER'S STORY.
The journey northward in 1831 originated in one of those fabulous tales
which occasionally become current in the colony of New South Wales,
respecting the interior country, still unexplored.
A runaway convict named George Clarke, alias The Barber, had, for a
length of time escaped the vigilance of the police by disguising himself
as an aboriginal native. He had even accustomed himself to the wretched
life of that unfortunate race of men; he was deeply scarified like them
and naked and painted black, he went about with a tribe, being usually
attended by two aboriginal females, and having acquired some knowledge of
their language and customs.
But this degenerate white man was not content with the solitary freedom
of the savage life and his escape from a state of servitude. He had
assumed the cloak and colour of the savage that he might approach the
dwellings of the colonists, and steal with less danger of detection. In
conjunction with the simple aborigines whom he misled, and with several
other runaway convicts he had organised a system of cattle stealing,
which was coming into extensive operation on Liverpool plains when,
through the aid of some of the natives, who have in general assisted the
detection of bushrangers, he was at length discovered and captured by the
police.
After this man was taken into custody, he gave a circumstantial detail of
his travels to the north-west along the bank of a large river, named, as
he said, the Kindur; by following which in a south-west direction he had
twice reached the seashore. He described the tribes inhabiting the banks
of the Kindur and gave the names of their chiefs. He said that he had
first crossed vast plains named Balyran, and, on approaching the sea, he
had seen a burning mountain named Courada. He described, with great
apparent accuracy, the courses of the known streams of the northern
interior which united, as he stated, in the Namoi, a river first
mentioned by him; and, according to his testimony, Peel's river entered
the Namoi by flowing westward from where Mr. Oxley had crossed it.
Now this was contrary to the course assigned to the Peel in the maps by
early travellers, but consistent nevertheless with more recent surveys.
Vague accounts of a great river beyond Liverpool plains, flowing
north-west, were current about the time General Darling embarked for
England. The attention of the acting governor, Colonel Lindesay, was
particularly drawn to the question by this report of Clarke, and also by
the subsequent proposals of various persons, to conduct any expedition
sent in search of the great river.
PLAN OF EXPLORATION.
There are few undertakings more attractive to the votaries of fame or
lovers of adventure than the exploration of unknown regions; but Sir
Patrick Lindesay, with due regard to the responsibility which my office
seemed to impose upon me, as successor to Mr. Oxley, at once accepted my
proffered services to conduct a party into the interior.
The principal object of my plan was the exploration of Australia, so that
whether the report of the river proved true or false, the results of the
expedition would be, at least, useful in affording so much additional
information; equally important geographically, whether positive or
negative.
After I had surveyed extensive tracts of territory I never could separate
the question respecting the course of any river from that of the
situation of the higher land necessary to furnish its sources and confine
its basin. I could not entertain the idea of a river distinct from these
conditions, so necessary to the existence of one; and it appeared to me
that if a large river flowed to the north-west of any point north of
Liverpool plains its sources could only be sought for in the Coast Range
in the opposite direction; or to the eastward of these plains.
Various rivers were known to arise on that side of the Coast Range; the
streams from Liverpool plains flowing northward; the Peel, the Gwydir,
and the Dumaresq, arising in the Coast Range, and falling, as had been
represented, to the north-westward. I proposed therefore to proceed
northward, or to pursue such a direction as well as the nature of the
country permitted, so that I might arrive, on the most northern of these
streams, and then, keeping in view whatever high land might be visible
near its northern banks, to trace the river's course downwards, and thus
to arrive at the large river, or common channel of all these waters.
The second condition necessary to the existence of a river, namely, the
higher land enclosing its basin, might, in this case, have been either
Arbuthnot's Range, or that between the Darling and the Lachlan; and this
seemed to me to involve a question of at least equal importance to that
of the river itself, for, had the fall of all the waters above-mentioned,
been to the north-west, it was obvious that such a range must have been
the dividing ridge or spine connecting the eastern and western parts of
Australia, and which, when once investigated was likely to be the key to
the discovery of all the rivers on each side, and to the other
subordinate features of this great island.
Thus, the most direct and practical plan for seeking the river, was
perfectly consistent with my views of general exploration.
PREPARATION FOR THE SURVEY.
In the selection of men to compose an exploring party, and in collecting
the articles of equipment, provisions, and means of transport, my
department afforded various facilities. This aid was the more necessary
in my case, because the other duties of my office, prevented me from
devoting much attention personally, to the preparations for such a
journey.
From the known level character of the interior, I considered that the
light drays or carts used by the surveyors might easily pass, and I
therefore preferred them to packhorses, being also a more convenient
means of conveyance; I availed myself likewise of such men, carts,
bullocks, and horses, as were disposable in the survey department at the
time. The new Governor was expected in the course of a few months, and I
was therefore desirous to set out as soon as possible, that I might
return before his arrival.
After several weeks of anxious preparation, I had the satisfaction to
find that every contingency was, as far as possible, provided for in my
department. Each officer, whether employed in the survey of the different
parts of the colony, or the measurement of farms, was also fully
instructed respecting his duties during my contemplated absence. In the
correspondence with the office at Sydney, which amounted annually to
about 2000 letters, none remained unanswered; and my last cares were to
leave, in the hands of an engraver, a map of the colony, that the past
labours of the department might be permanently secured to the public,
whatever might be our fate in the interior.
DEPARTURE FROM SYDNEY.
Little time remained for me to look at the sextants, theodolite, and
other instruments necessary for the exploratory journey; I collected in
haste a few articles of personal equipment, and having as well as I
could, under the circumstances, set my house in order, I bade adieu to my
family, and left Sydney at noon, on Thursday, the 24th day of November,
1831, being accompanied for some miles by my friend Colonel Snodgrass.
It was not until then, that my mind was sufficiently relieved from
considering the details of my department, to enable me to direct my
thoughts to the undiscovered country. I had yet to traverse 300 miles,
for to that distance from Sydney the flocks of the colonists extended,
before I could reach the vast untrodden soil, the exploration of which
was the object of my mission. I felt the ardour of my early youth, when I
first sought distinction in the crowded camp and battlefield, revive, as
I gave loose to my reflections and considered the nature of the
enterprise. But, in comparing the feelings I then experienced with those
which excited my youthful ambition, it seemed that even war and victory,
with all their glory, were far less alluring than the pursuit of
researches such as these; the objects of which were to spread the light
of civilisation over a portion of the globe yet unknown, though rich,
perhaps, in the luxuriance of uncultivated nature, and where science
might accomplish new and unthought-of discoveries; while intelligent man
would find a region teeming with useful vegetation, abounding with
rivers, hills, and valleys, and waiting only for his enterprising spirit
and improving hand to turn to account the native bounty of the soil.
A GARDEN.
My first day's journey, terminated near Parramatta, at the residence of
Mr. John Macarthur. I was received by that gentleman with his usual
hospitality, and although not in the enjoyment of the best health, he
insisted on accompanying me over his extensive and beautiful garden,
where he pointed out to my attention, the first olive-tree ever planted
in Australia. Here I also saw the cork-tree in full luxuriance--the caper
plant growing amidst rocks--the English oak--the
horse-chestnut--broom--magnificent mulberry trees of thirty-five years'
growth, umbrageous and green. Beds of roses, in great variety, were
spread around, and filled the air with fragrance, while the climbing
species of that beautiful flower was equally pleasing to the eye. I
observed convict Greeks (Pirates.)--acti fatis--at work in that garden of
the antipodes, training the vines to trellises, made after the fashion of
those in the Peloponnesus. The state of the orange-trees, flourishing in
the form of cones sixteen feet high, and loaded with fruit, was very
remarkable, but they had risen from the roots of former trees, which,
having been reduced to bare poles by a drought of three years' duration,
had been cut off, and were now succeeded by these vigorous products of
more genial seasons. Mr. Macarthur assured me, that by adopting this
plan, many fruit-trees, after suffering from the effects of
long-continued drought, might be renovated successfully. The want of
moisture in the climate of Australia, may occasionally compel the
gardener to resort to such extreme measures for the preservation of his
trees: but the orange has hitherto yielded a very profitable and constant
return to those, who have attended to its cultivation in this colony. The
luxuriant growth of the apple and pear, in a climate so dry and warm, is
a remarkable fact; and when we consider the exuberance of the vine in the
few spots, where it has as yet been planted; we are justified in
anticipating from the variety of aspect and unbroken soil in these
southern regions, that many a curious or luxurious wine, still unknown,
may in time be produced there.
But the garden, to him who seeks a home in distant colonies, must ever be
an object of peculiar interest; for there, while cultivating the trees,
fruits and flowers of his native land, the recollection of early days,
and of the country of his birth is awakened by the vivid colours of the
simple flower which his industry has reared, and which he knows to be a
native of the soil to which he himself owes his existence.
COUNTRY BETWEEN SYDNEY AND THE HAWKESBURY.
At an early hour on the following morning, I took leave of my kind host,
and also of my friend Mr. Dunlop, to whose scientific assistance in
preparing for this journey I feel much indebted. Mr. James Macarthur
accompanied me a few miles on the road, when we parted with regret; and I
set forth on my journey in the direction of the Hawkesbury, along the
road leading to the ferry, across that river at Wiseman's. I should here
observe, that I had previously arranged that the exploring party which,
being slower in its movements, had been despatched two weeks before,
should await my arrival on Foy Brook, beyond the river Hunter, where I
expected to meet Mr. White also, the assistant surveyor, whom I had
selected to accompany me on this expedition.
My ride, on that day, was along a ridge, which extended upwards of fifty
miles, through a succession of deep ravines, where no objects met the eye
except barren sandstone rocks, and stunted trees. With the banksia and
xanthorrhoea always in sight, the idea of hopeless sterility is ever
present to the mind, for these productions, in sandy soils at least, grow
only where nothing else can vegetate. The horizon is flat, affording no
relief to the eye from the dreary and inhospitable scene, which these
solitudes present; and which extends over a great portion of the country,
uninhabitable even by the aborigines. Yet here the patient labours of the
surveyor have opened a road, although the stream of population must be
confined to it, since it cannot spread over a region so utterly
unprofitable and worthless.
It is not until the traveller has completed a journey of fifty miles,
that he enjoys the sight, doubly cheering after crossing such a desert,
of green, cultivated fields, and the dwellings of man. The broad waters
of the Hawkesbury then come unexpectedly in view, flowing in the deepest,
and apparently most inaccessible of these rock-bound valleys. He here
soon discovers a practical proof of the advantages of convict labour to
the inhabitants of such a country, in the facility with which he descends
by a road cut in the rock, to the comfortable inn near the ferry.
COUNTRY BEYOND THE HAWKESBURY.
Early next morning my ride was resumed, after crossing the river in the
ferry-boat, where the width is 280 yards. The Hawkesbury is here the
boundary between the counties of Cumberland and Northumberland. The
scenery is fine on those broad and placid waters, sheltered by
overhanging cliffs, 600 feet in height. The river appears smooth as a
mirror, and affords access by boats and small vessels, to the little
sheltered cots and farms, which now enliven the margin. These patches are
of no great extent, and occur alternately on each bank of this noble
stream, comprising farms of from thirty to a hundred acres.
The necessity for a permanent land communication, between the seat of
government and the northern part of the colony was obvious, and, indeed,
a road in that direction had been the subject of petitions from the
settlers to Sir Thomas Brisbane, under whose auspices the track across
the mountain beyond the Hawkesbury, was first discovered and surveyed by
Mr. Finch. This track, with some slight alterations, was found, on a more
general survey, to be the most favourable line for a cart-road in that
direction, which the country afforded; and it had been opened but a short
time, when I thus proceeded along it, accompanied by Mr. Simpson, the
assistant-surveyor, who, under my direction, had accomplished the work.
Just then however the first steam vessel arrived in Australia, and
afforded a regular coast-communication between Sydney and the northern
portion of the colony. The land communication became, in consequence, an
object of less importance than before, to the small handful of settlers
at least, although it was not the less essential to a respectable
government, or where an armed force had been organised, as in New South
Wales, solely for the suppression of bushrangers, a sub-genus in the
order banditti, which, happily, can no longer exist, except in places
inaccessible to the mounted police. The ascent northward from this ferry
on the Hawkesbury, is a substantial and permanent work, affording a
favourable specimen of the value of convict labour, in anticipating the
wants of an increasing population.
The country traversed by this new road is equally barren, and more
mountainous than the district between Parramatta and the Hawkesbury. Amid
those rocky heights and depths, across which I had recently toiled on
foot, marking out with no ordinary labour, the intended line, I had now
the satisfaction to trot over a new and level road, winding like a thread
through the dreary labyrinth before me, and in which various parts had
already acquired a local appellation not wholly unsuited to their
character, such as Hungry Flat, Devil's Backbone, No-grass Valley,* and
Dennis's Dog-kennel. In fact, the whole face of the country is composed
of sandstone rock, and but partially covered with vegetation. The horizon
is only broken by one or two summits, which are different both in outline
and quality from the surrounding country. These isolated heights
generally consist of trap-rock, and are covered with rich soil and very
heavy timber. The most remarkable is Warrawolong--whose top I first
observed from the hill of Jellore in the south, at the distance of 108
miles. This being a most important station for the general survey, which
I made previously to opening the northern road, it was desirable to clear
the summit, at least partly, of trees, a work which was accomplished
after considerable labour--the trees having been very large. On removing
the lofty forest, I found the view from that summit extended over a wild
waste of rocky precipitous ravines, which debarred all access or passage
in any direction, until I could patiently trace out the ridges between
them, and for this purpose I ascended that hill on ten successive days,
the whole of which time I devoted to the examination of the various
outlines and their connections, by means of the theodolite.
(*Footnote. Originally Snodgrass Valley--but Vox populi vox Dei. The
present name is shorter, and has the additional merit of being
descriptive--for the valley contains but little grass.)
Looking northward, an intermediate and lower range concealed from view
the valley of the Hunter, but the summits of the Liverpool range appeared
beyond it. On turning to the eastward, my view extended to the unpeopled
shores and lonely waters of the vast Pacific.
NATIVES OF BRISBANE WATER.
Not a trace of man, or of his existence, was visible on any side, except
a distant solitary column of smoke, that arose from a thicket between the
hill on which I stood and the coast, and marked the asylum of a remnant
of the aborigines. These unfortunate creatures could no longer enjoy
their solitary freedom; for the dominion of the white man surrounded
them. His sheep and cattle filled the green pastures where the kangaroo
(the principal food of the natives) was accustomed to range, until the
stranger came from distant lands and claimed the soil. Thus these first
inhabitants, hemmed in by the power of the white population, and deprived
of the liberty which they formerly enjoyed of wandering at will through
their native wilds, were compelled to seek a precarious shelter amidst
the close thickets and rocky fastnesses which afforded them a temporary
home, but scarcely a subsistence, for their chief support, the kangaroo,
was either destroyed or banished. I knew this unhappy tribe, and had
frequently met them in their haunts. In the prosecution of my surveys I
was enabled to explore the wildest recesses of these deep mountainous
ravines, guided occasionally by one or two of their number. I felt no
hesitation in venturing amongst them for, to me, they appeared a harmless
unoffending race.* On many a dark night, and even during rainy weather, I
have proceeded on horseback amongst these steep and rocky ranges, my path
being guided by two young boys belonging to the tribe, who ran cheerfully
before my horse, alternately tearing off the stringy bark which served
for torches, and setting fire to the grass-trees (xanthorrhoea) to light
my way.
(*Footnote. On my return from the interior in 1835 I learnt with much
regret that a war had commenced between my old friends and the mounted
police.)
This can scarcely be considered a digression from my narrative of this
day's journey, for Warrawolong was the only object visible, beyond the
woody horizon. We had passed No-Grass Valley, the Devil's Backbone, and
were approaching Hungry Flat, when Mr. Simpson produced a grilled fowl,
and a feed for our horses and we alighted most willingly for half an hour
to partake of this timely refreshment near a spring.
On remounting I bade Mr. Simpson farewell, after expressing my
satisfaction with his clever arrangements for opening this mountain road,
a work which he had accomplished with small means in nine months.
THE WOLLOMBI.
It was quite dark on the evening of the 26th, before I reached the inn
near the head of the little valley of the Wollombi, a tributary to the
river Hunter. Here, at length, we again find some soil fit for
cultivation, and the whole of it has been taken up in farms. But the
pasturage afforded by the numerous valleys on this side of the mountains,
here called cattle runs, is more profitable to the owners of the farms,
than the farms they actually possess, of which the produce by cultivation
is only available to them at present, as the means of supporting grazing
establishments. I should here observe, that in a climate so dry as that
of Australia, the selection of farmland depends solely on the direction
of streams, for it is only in the beds of watercourses, that any ponds
can be found during dry seasons. The formation of reservoirs has not yet
been resorted to, although the accidental largeness of ponds left in such
channels has frequently determined settlers in their choice of a
homestead, when by a little labour, a pond equally good might have been
made in other parts, which few would select from the want of water. In
the rocky gullies, that I had passed in these mountains, there was,
probably, a sufficiency, but there was no land fit for the purposes of
farming. In other situations, on the contrary, there might be found
abundance of good soil, considered unavailable for any purpose except
grazing, because it had no frontage (as it is termed) on a river or chain
of ponds. Selections have been frequently made of farms, which have thus
excluded extensive tracts behind them from the water, and these remaining
consequently unoccupied, have continued accessible only to the sheep or
cattle of the possessor of the water frontage.
In these valleys of the Upper Wollombi, we find little breadth of
alluvial soil, but a never-failing supply of water has already attracted
settlers to its banks--and those smallfarmers who live on a field or two
of maize and potatoes--and who are the only beginning of an agricultural
population, yet apparent, in New South Wales--show a disposition to
nestle in any available corner there. But on the lower portion of the
Wollombi, where the valley widens, and water becomes less abundant, the
soil being sandy, I found it impossible to locate some veterans on small
farms, which I had marked out for them, because it was known that in dry
seasons, although each farm had frontage on the Wollombi Brook, very few
ponds remained in that part of its channel.
JOIN THE PARTY.
November 27.
Early this morning, I had a visit from Mr. Finch, who was very anxious
that I should attach him to the exploring party. As I foresaw, that some
delay might occur in procuring provisions, without his assistance, in
this district, I accepted his services, and gave him his instructions,
conditionally. I met Mr. White at the junction of the Ellalong, and we
proceeded together, down the valley of the Wollombi.
The sandstone terminates in cliffs on the right bank of this stream near
the projected village of Broke (named by me in honour of that meritorious
officer, Sir Charles Broke Vere, Bart.) but the left bank is overlooked
by other rocky extremities falling from the ranges on the west, until it
reaches the main stream. The most conspicuous of these headlands, as they
appear from that of Mattawee behind the village of Broke, is called
Wambo. This consists of a dark mottled trap with crystals of felspar. But
the most remarkable feature in this extensive valley, is the termination
thereupon of the sandstone formation which renders barren so large a
proportion of the surface of New South Wales. This, in many parts,
resembles what was formerly called the iron-sand of England, where it
occurs both as a fresh and saltwater formation. The mountains northward
of this valley of the Hunter consist chiefly of trap-rock, the lower
country being open, and lightly wooded. The river, although occasionally
stagnant, contains a permanent supply of water, and consequently the
whole of the land on its banks, is favourable for the location of
settlers, and accordingly has been all taken up. The country, and
especially the hills beyond the left bank, affords excellent pasturage
for sheep, as many large and thriving establishments testify. At one of
this description, belonging to Mr. Blaxland, and which is situated on the
bank of the Lower Wollombi, Mr. White and I arrived towards evening, and
passed the night.
November 28.
We left the hospitable station of Mr. Blaxland at an early hour, and
proceeded on our way to join the party. We found the country across which
we rode, very much parched from the want of rain. The grass was
everywhere yellow, or burnt up, and in many parts on fire, so that the
smoke which arose from it obscured the sun, and added sensibly to the
heat of the atmosphere.
We lost ourselves, and, consequently, a good portion of the day, from
having rode too carelessly through the forest country, while engaged in
conversation respecting the intended journey. We nevertheless reached the
place of rendezvous on Foy Brook long before night, and I encamped on a
spot where the whole party was to join me in the morning. Mr. White left
me here for the purpose of making some arrangements at home, and
respecting the supplies which I had calculated on obtaining in this part
of the country.
VALLEY OF THE HUNTER.
During the day's route, we traversed the valley of the river Hunter, an
extensive tract of country, different from that mountainous region from
which I had descended, inasmuch as it consists of low undulating land,
thinly wooded, and bearing, in most parts, a good crop of grass.
Portions of the surface near Mr. Blaxland's establishment, bore that
peculiar, undulating character which appears in the southern districts,
where it closely resembles furrows, and is termed ploughed ground. This
appearance usually indicates a good soil, which is either of a red or
very dark colour, and in which small portions of trap-rock, but more
frequently concretions of indurated marl, are found. Coal appears in the
bed and banks of the Wollombi, near Mr. Blaxland's station, and at no
great distance from his farm is a salt spring, also in the bed of this
brook. The waters in the lesser tributaries, on the north bank of the
river Hunter, become brackish when the current ceases. In that part of
the bed of this river, which is nearest to the Wollombi (or to Wambo
rather) I found an augitic rock, consisting of a mixture of felspar and
augite.
FOSSILS OF THE HUNTER.
Silicified fossil wood of a coniferous tree, is found abundantly in the
plains, and in rounded pebbles in the banks and bed of the river, also
chalcedony and compact brown haematite. A hill of some height on the
right bank, situate twenty-six miles from the seashore, is composed
chiefly of a volcanic grit of greenish grey colour, consisting
principally of felspar, and being in some parts slightly, in other parts
highly calcareous when the rock assumes a compact aspect. This deposit
contains numerous fossil shells, consisting chiefly of four distinct
species of a new genus, nearest to hippopodium; also a new species of
trochus; Atrypa glabra, and Spirifer, a shell occurring also in older
limestones of England.*
(*Footnote. These shells having been submitted to Mr. James De Carl
Sowerby, I am indebted to that gentleman for the following description:
Class Conchifera. Order, Dimyaria. Genus Megadesmus.
Valves equal, inequilateral, thick, their edges even; umbones nearly
central; hinge sunk, with an antiquated area and one ? or two ? large
teeth in each valve; ligament external, large; impressions of the
abducter muscles strong, nearly equal, united by the impression of the
mantle, at the posterior extremity of which is a small shallow sinus; no
lunette.
A genus of heavy shells in some respects resembling Astarte, in others
especially in having a striated area within the beaks, Hippopodium, from
which it is distinguished by the position of the umbones and the presence
of a thick tooth in the hinge. There appear to be four species, which may
be named Megadesmus globosus (Plate 2) M. laevis (figure 1) M. antiquatus
(figure 2) and M. cuneatus (figure 3 Plate 3) the cuneatus differs from
antiquatus, only in having the shell a little contracted towards the
anterior side.
The large shell (Plate 4 figures 1 and 2) is near to Isocardia, but Mr.
Sowerby would not venture to say it belongs to that genus.
The Trochus (Plate 4 figures 3 and 4) may be called T. oculus.)
Amongst these remains was also found embedded a very perfect specimen of
fossil wood. I may add, that in the bed of the Glindon Brook, which flows
from the left bank of the Hunter, rocks of argillaceous limestone are
found in large round boulders, some of which are more than 15 feet in
diameter.*
(*Footnote. The fossil vegetation seems to consist chiefly of the
Glossopteris brownii (of Brongniart) a fern which occurs in a stratum of
ironstone at Newcastle, and in one of the same mineral on the southern
coast, also in sandstone in the valley of the Hunter, and abundantly in
the shale near the coal wrought at Newcastle.)
November 29.
The whole equipment came up at half-past nine, whereupon I distributed
such articles as were necessary to complete the organisation of the
party, and the day was passed in making various arrangements for the
better regulation of our proceedings, both on encamping and in
travelling. I obtained from Assistant-Surveyor Dixon, then employed in
this neighbourhood, some account of Liverpool Plains--this officer having
surveyed the ranges which separate these interior regions from the
appropriated lands of the colony. The heat of this day was exceedingly
oppressive, the thermometer having been as high as 100 degrees in the
shade, but after a thundershower it fell to 88 degrees.
MEN EMPLOYED ON THE EXPEDITION.
November 30.
At length I had the satisfaction to see my party move forward in
exploring order; it consisted of the following persons, namely:
Alexander Burnett and Robert Whiting, Carpenters.
William Woods, John Palmer, Thomas Jones and William Worthington,
Sailors.
James Souter, Medical Assistant.
Robert Muirhead, Daniel Delaney and James Foreham, Bullock-Drivers.
Joseph Jones, Groom.
Stephen Bombelli, Blacksmith.
Timothy Cussack, Surveyor's Man.
Anthony Brown, Servant to me.
Henry Dawkins, Servant to Mr. White.
These were the best men I could find. All were ready to face fire or
water, in hopes of regaining by desperate exploits, a portion, at least,
of that liberty which had been forfeited to the laws of their country.
This was always a favourite service with the best disposed of the convict
prisoners, for in the event of their meriting, by their good conduct, a
favourable report on my return, the government was likely to grant them
some indulgence. I chose these men either from the characters they bore,
or according to their trade or particular qualifications: thus:
Burnett was the son of a respectable house-carpenter on the banks of the
Tweed, where he had been too fond of shooting game, his only cause of
trouble.
Whiting, a Londoner, had been a soldier in the Guards.
Woods had been found useful in the department as a surveyor's man; in
which capacity he first came under my notice, after he had been long
employed as a boatman in the survey of the coast, and having become, in
consequence, ill from scurvy, he made application to me to be employed on
shore. The justness of his request, and the services he had performed,
prepossessed me in his favour, and I never afterwards had occasion to
change my good opinion of him.
John Palmer was a sailmaker as well as a sailor, and both he and Jones
had been on board a man-of-war, and were very handy fellows.
Worthington was a strong youth, recently arrived from Nottingham. He was
nicknamed by his comrades Five-o'clock, from his having, on the outset of
the journey, disturbed them by insisting that the hour was five o'clock
soon after midnight, from his eagerness to be ready in time in the
morning.
I never saw Souter's diploma, but his experience and skill in surgery
were sufficient to satisfy us, and to acquire for him from the men the
appellation of The Doctor.
Robert Muirhead had been a soldier in India, and banished, for some
mutiny, to New South Wales; where his steady conduct had obtained for him
an excellent character.
Delaney and Foreham were experienced men in driving cattle.
Joseph Jones, originally a London groom, I had always found intelligent
and trustworthy.
Bombelli could shoe horses, and was afterwards transferred to my service
by Mr. Sempill in lieu of a very turbulent character, whom I left behind,
and who declared it to be his firm determination to be hanged.
Cussack had been a bog surveyor in Ireland; he was an honest creature,
but had got somehow implicated in a charge of administering unlawful
oaths.
Brown had been a soldier, and subsequently was assistant coachman to the
Marquis of ----.
Dawkins was an old tar, in whom Mr. White, himself formerly an officer in
the Indian navy, placed much confidence.
EQUIPMENT.
Thus it had been my study, in organising this party, to combine proved
men of both services with some neat-handed mechanics, as engineers, and
it now formed a respectable body of men, for the purpose for which it was
required.
Our materiel consisted of eight muskets, six pistols; and our small stock
of ammunition, including a box containing skyrockets, was carried on one
of the covered carts.
Of these tilted carts we had two, so constructed that they could be drawn
either by one or two horses. They were also so light, that they could be
moved across difficult passes by the men alone. Three stronger carts or
drays were loaded with our stock of provisions, consisting of flour, pork
(which had been boned in order to diminish the bulk as much as possible)
tea, tobacco, sugar and soap. We had, besides, a sufficient number of
packsaddles for the draught animals, that, in case of necessity, we might
be able to carry forward the loads by such means. Several packhorses were
also attached to the party. I had been induced to prefer wheel carriages
for an exploratory journey: first, From the level nature of the interior
country; second, From the greater facility and certainty they afforded of
starting early, and as the necessity for laying all our stores in
separate loads on animals' backs could thus be avoided. The latter method
being further exposed to interruptions on the way--by the derangement of
loads--or galling the animals' backs--one inexperienced man being thus
likely to impede the progress of the whole party.
For the navigation or passage of rivers, two portable boats of canvas,
had been prepared by Mr. Eager, of the King's dockyard at Sydney. We
carried the canvas only, with models of the ribs--and tools, having
carpenters who could complete them, as occasions required.
Our hour for encamping, when circumstances permitted, was to be two P.M.,
as affording time for the cattle to feed and rest, but this depended on
our finding water and grass. Daybreak was to be the signal for preparing
for the journey, and no time was allowed for breakfast, until after the
party had encamped for the day.
As we proceeded along the road leading to the pass in the Liverpool
range, Mr. White overtook us, having obtained an additional supply of
flour, tobacco, tea and sugar, with which Mr. Finch was to follow the
party as soon as he could procure the carts and bullocks necessary for
the carriage of these stores.
BURNING GRASS.
After travelling six hours, we encamped beside a small watercourse near
Mussel Brook, the thermometer at four P.M. being as high as 95 degrees.
In the evening, the burning grass became rather alarming, especially as
we had a small stock of ammunition in one of the carts. I had established
our camp to the windward of the burning grass, but I soon discovered that
the progress of the fire was against the wind, especially where the grass
was highest. This may appear strange, but it is easily accounted for. The
extremities of the stalks bending from the wind, are the first to catch
the flame, but as they become successively ignited, the fire runs
directly to the windward, which is toward the lower end of the spikes of
grass, and catching the extremities of other stalks still further in the
direction of the wind, it travels in a similar manner along them. We
managed to extinguish the burning grass before it reached our encampment,
but to prevent the invasion of such a dangerous enemy we took the
precaution, on other occasions, of burning a sufficient space around our
tents in situations where we were exposed to like inconvenience and
danger.
ABORIGINES AND COLONISTS.
December 1, 6 A.M.
The thermometer at 82 degrees. As the party proceeded, the sky became
overcast, and the absence of the sun made the day much more agreeable.
Towards noon we had rain and thunder, and this weather continued until we
reached the banks of the Hunter. We forded the river where the stream was
considerable at the time, and then encamped on the left bank. The draught
animals appeared less fatigued by this journey, than they had been by
that of the former day, owing probably to the refreshing moisture and
cooler air. After the tents had been pitched, a fine invigorating breeze
arose, and the weather cleared up. Segenhoe, the extensive estate of
Potter Macqueen, Esquire was not far distant, and Mr. Sempill the agent,
called at my tent, and afforded me some aid in completing my
arrangements.
I was very anxious to obtain the assistance of an aboriginal guide, but
the natives had almost all disappeared from the valley of the Hunter; and
those who still linger near their ancient haunts, are sometimes met with,
about such large establishments as Segenhoe, where, it may be presumed,
they meet with kind treatment. Their reckless gaiety of manner;
intelligence respecting the country, expressed in a laughable inversion
of slang words; their dexterity, and skill in the use of their weapons;
and above all, their few wants, generally ensure them that look of
welcome,* without which these rovers of the wild will seldom visit a farm
or cattle station. Among those, who have become sufficiently acquainted
with us, to be sensible of that happy state of security, enjoyed by all
men under the protection of our laws, the conduct is strikingly different
from that of the natives who remain in a savage state. The latter are
named myalls, by their half-civilised brethren--who, indeed, hold them so
much in dread, that it is seldom possible to prevail on anyone to
accompany a traveller far into the unexplored parts of the country. At
Segenhoe, on a former occasion, I met with a native but recently arrived
from the wilds. His terror and suspicion, when required to stand steadily
before me, while I drew his portrait, were such, that, notwithstanding
the power of disguising fear, so remarkable in the savage race, the stout
heart of Cambo was overcome, and beat visibly--the perspiration streamed
from his breast, and he was about to sink to the ground, when he at
length suddenly darted from my presence; but he speedily returned,
bearing in one hand his club, and in the other his boomerang, with which
he seemed to acquire just fortitude enough, to be able to stand on his
legs, until I finished the sketch (See Plate 1.1.)
(*Footnote. They understand our looks better than our speech.)
A COLONIST.
December 2.
The party moved off at seven, and passing, soon after, near the farm of
an old man, whom I had assisted some years before, in the selection of
his land, I rode to see him, accompanied by Mr. White. He was busy with
his harvest, but left the top of his wheat-stack on seeing me, and
running up, cordially welcomed us to his dwelling. A real scotch bonnet
covered the brow of a face which reminded me, by its characteristic
carving, of the land of the mountain and the flood. The analogy between
the respective features, was at least so strong in my mind, and the sight
of the one was so associated with the idea of the other, that had I seen
this face on a stranger, in a still more distant corner of the earth--it
must have called to mind the hills of my native land. The old man was
very deaf, but in spite of age and this infirmity his sharp blue eye
expressed the enduring vigour of his mind. He had buried his wife in
Scotland, and had left there a numerous family, that he might become its
pioneer at the antipodes. He had thus far worked his way successfully,
and was beginning to reap the fruits of his adventurous industry. Sleek
cattle filled his stockyard, his fields waved with ripe grain, and I had
the satisfaction of learning from him, that he had written for his
family, and that he soon expected their arrival in the colony. He
immediately gave grain to our horses, and placed before us new milk; and,
what we found a still greater luxury, pure water from the running burnie
close by; also a bottle of the mountain dew, which, he said, was from a
still which was no far aff. When I was about to mount my horse, he
enquired if I could spare five minutes more, when he put into my hands
the copy of a long memorial addressed to the government, which he had
taken from among the leaves of a very old folio volume of Pitscottie's
History of Scotland. This memorial prayed, that whereas Scoone was in the
valley of Strathearne, and that the pillow of Jacob which had been kept
as the coronation stone of the Kings of Scotland, was fated still to be,
where their dominion extended; and as this valley of the Kingdon Ponds,
had not received a general name, that it might be called Strathearne,
etc. etc. We were finally compelled, although it still wanted two hours
of noon, to drink a stirrup-cup at the door--when he most heartily drank
success to our expedition, and I went on my way rejoicing that, on
leaving the last man of the white race we were likely to see for some
time, the ceremony of shaking hands was a vibration of sincere kindness.
We soon overtook the party--and had proceeded with it, some distance,
when a soldier of the mounted police came up, and delivered to me a
letter, from the military secretary at Sydney, informing me by command of
the Acting Governor, that George Clarke--alias The Barber (The
Bushranger) had sawed off his irons, and escaped from the prison at
Bathurst. This intelligence was meant to put me on my guard respecting
the natives, for from the well-known character of the man, it was
supposed, that he would assemble them beyond the settled districts, with
a view to drive off the cattle of the colonists--and especial caution
would be necessary to prevent a surprise from natives so directed, if, as
most people supposed, his story of the great river, had only been an
invention of his own, by which he had hoped to improve his chance of
escape. (See Appendix 1.1.)
BURNING HILL OF WINGEN.
At three P.M. we reached a spot favourable for encamping, the Kingdon
brook forming a broad pool, deep enough to bathe in, and the grass in the
neighbourhood being very good. The burning hill of Wingen was distant
about four miles. This phenomenon appears to be of the same character as
that at Holworth, in the neighbourhood of Weymouth, described by
Professor Buckland and Mr. De la Beche in the following terms: "It is
probable that in each case rainwater acting on iron pyrites has set fire
to the bituminous shale; thus ignited it has gone on burning at Holworth
unto the present hour, and may still continue smouldering for a long
series of years, the bitumen being here so abundant in some strata of the
shale, that it is burnt as fuel in the adjoining cottages; the same
bituminous shale is used as fuel in the village of Kimmeridge, and is
there called Kimmeridge coal."* Wingen, the aboriginal name, is derived
from fire. The combustion extends over a space of no great extent (see
Plate 5) near the summit of a group of hills, forming part of a low chain
which divides the valley of Kingdon Ponds from that of Page's River. Thin
blue smoke ascends from rents and cracks, the breadth of the widest
measuring about a yard. Red heat appears at the depth of about four
fathoms. No marks of any extensive change appear on the surface, near
these burning fissures, although the growth of large trees in old cracks
on the opposite slope, where ignition has ceased, shows that this fire
has continued for a very considerable time, or that the same thing had
occurred at a much earlier period. In the form of the adjacent hills I
observed nothing peculiar, unless it be a contraction not very common of
the lower parts of ravines. The geological structure is, as might be
expected, more remarkable. Other summits of the range are porphyritic,**
but the hills of Wingen present a variety of rocks, within a small space.
In the adjacent gullies to the south of the hill, we find clay of a grey
mottled appearance, and shale containing apparently a small quantity of
decomposed vegetable matter; and near the fissure then on fire, occurred
a coarse sandstone with an argillaceous basis. To the north-west, in a
hollow containing water which drains from beneath the part ignited, is a
coarse sandstone, in some places highly charged with decomposed felspar,
and containing impressions of spirifers. The hill nearest to the part on
fire, on the south-west (b) consists of basalt with grains apparently of
olivine; and on a still higher hill, on the east (a) I found ironstone. A
small hill (c) connecting these two, and nearest to the part actually
burning, appears to consist of trap-rock, and is thickly strewed with
agates. The hills on the opposite or south side of the valley are
composed of compact felspar, with acicular crystals of glassy or common
felspar and grains of hornblende, crevices of the stone being coated with
films of serpentine or green earth.
(*Footnote. Volume 4 part 1 Second Series Geological Transactions,
Professor Buckland and Mr. De la Beche on the Geology of the
neighbourhood of Weymouth.)
(**Footnote. The porphyry of a hill three miles south of Wingen, consists
of a base of reddish-brown compact felspar, with embedded crystals of
common felspar and disseminated carbonate of lime.)
APPROACH LIVERPOOL RANGE.
December 3.
The party in proceeding crossed several deep gullies in the neighbourhood
of the burning hill; and the road continued to be well marked. At length
we began to ascend the chain of hills, which connects Wingen with Mount
Murulla and the Liverpool range. On gaining the summit of this range we
overlooked Wingen, whose situation was faintly discernible by the light
blue smoke. Three years had elapsed since my first visit to these
slumbering fires. The ridge we were crossing was strewed with fallen
trees; and broken branches with the leaves still upon them marked the
effects of some violent and recent storm. We descended to a beautiful
valley of considerable extent, watered by Page's river, which rises in
the main range. We reached the banks of this stream at four P.M. and
encamped on a fine flat. The extremities from the mountains on the north
descend in long and gradual slopes, and are well covered with grass. This
was already eaten short by sheep. Two babbling brooks water the flat at
the part where we pitched our tents, and which is opposite to Whalan's
station; one of these being the river Page, or Macqueen's River; the
other known only as The Creek. The space between them is flat, and
apparently consists of a soil of excellent quality. The heat of the day
was excessive, the thermometer 80 degrees at sunset.
MOUNT MURULLA.
December 4.
Mount Murulla is a remarkable cone of the Liverpool range, and being
visible from Warrawolong, is consequently an important point in the
general survey of the colony.
From Murulla, the range we had crossed extends eastward, enclosing the
valley in which we were encamped, and which gives birth to the river
Page. Our way now lay westward, towards the head of this valley, in order
to cross by the usual route, the higher and principal range, which still
lay to the north. We traversed, this day, six miles of the valley, and
encamped beside a remarkable rock, near to which the track turned
northward. I rode a little beyond our bivouac, and chanced to fall in
with a tribe of natives from Pewen Bewen on Dart Brook, one of whom
afterwards visited our camp, but he could tell us little about the
interior country. The whole of the valley appears to consist of good
land, and the adjacent mountains afford excellent sheep pasture. In the
evening, a native of Liverpool plains came to our tents; I gave him a
tobacco-pipe, and he promised to show me the best road across them.
Thermometer at sunset 84 degrees.
CROSS LIVERPOOL RANGE.
December 5.
This morning we ascended Liverpool range, which divides the colony from
the unexplored country. Having heard much of this difficult pass, we
proceeded cautiously, by attaching thirteen bullocks to each cart, and
ascending with one at a time. The pass is a low neck, named by the
natives Hecknaduey, but we left the beaten track (which was so very steep
that it was usual to unload carts in order to pass) and took a new route,
which afforded an easier ascent. All had got up safely, and were
proceeding along a level portion, on the opposite side of the range, when
the axle of one of the carts broke, and it became necessary to leave it,
and place the load on the spare packhorses, and such of the bullocks,
taken out of the shafts, as had been broken in to carry packsaddles.
A SICK TRIBE.
We reached at length, a watercourse called Currungai, and encamped upon
its bank, beside the natives from Dart Brook, who had crossed the range
before us, apparently to join some of their tribe, who lay at this place
extremely ill, being affected with a virulent kind of smallpox. We found
the helpless creatures, stretched on their backs, beside the water, under
the shade of the wattle or mimosa trees, to avoid the intense heat of the
sun. We gave them from our stock some medicine; and the wretched
sufferers seemed to place the utmost confidence in its efficacy. I had
often indeed occasion to observe, that however obtuse in some things, the
aborigines seemed to entertain a sort of superstitious belief, in the
virtues of all kinds of physic. I found that this distressed tribe were
also strangers in the land, to which they had resorted. Their meekness,
as aliens, and their utter ignorance of the country they were in, were
very unusual in natives, and excited our sympathy, especially when their
demeanour was contrasted with the prouder bearing and intelligence of the
native of the plains, who had undertaken to be my guide.
INTERIOR WATERS.
Here I at length drank the water of a stream, which flowed into the
unexplored interior; and from a hill near our route I beheld, this day,
for the first time, a distant blue horizon, exactly resembling that of
the ocean.
December 6.
LIVERPOOL PLAINS.
At an early hour we continued the journey towards the plains, guided by
the natives, and along a cart track, which led towards some cattle
stations. We crossed a low ridge of rich earth, in which were embedded
nodules of limestone, and fragments of trap-rock. After passing several
extremities of ridges, of a similar description, all being branches from
high ranges on our left, we came upon a portion of the plains. This
expanse of open level country, extended in a northerly direction, as far
as human vision could reach; and being clear of trees, presented a
remarkable contrast to the settled districts of the colony. The soil of
these plains looked rich, the grass was good, and herds of cattle
browsing at a distance, added pastoral beauty, to that which had been
recently a desert.
PROPOSED ROUTE.
We now turned from the track, we had thus far followed in a
west-south-west direction, and parting from our friends, the natives, who
insisted on our keeping the track, we again entered the woods, by turning
a little to the north. My object, in proceeding in this direction, was to
reach the bank of Peel's river at Wallawoul; that stream having been laid
down as holding a northerly course, and consequently I had reason to
believe that it would lead to any greater river flowing to the
north-west, as reported by The Barber. But independently of this
consideration, it was expedient to travel along its right bank, which
commanded access to the high ranges on the east, and would therefore
secure the party from any danger of obstruction from floods. I soon came
on another path, and a line of marked trees, which a native, whom I met,
said was the road from Palmer's to Loder's station. We next arrived at a
deep dry bed, which in wet seasons must be filled by a very considerable
stream, but in that time of drought, it was not until after riding up and
down a considerable distance in search of water, that I at length found
some ponds. The native name of this channel is Nuzabella. We crossed its
bed, in order to encamp at a shady spot, where the long grass had been
burnt a short while before. In other parts the grass reached to the heads
of the horses, and at this time was so liable to catch fire, and was so
frequently set on fire by the natives, that with our stock of ammunition,
the situation of the camp required particular attention. The bullocks
were much fatigued with this day's journey, the thermometer having stood
at 96 degrees in the shade, and at sunset, and even during part of the
night, it was as high as 90 degrees.
HORSES ASTRAY.
At twilight, on enquiring, as usual, if the horses had been tethered and
spancelled, I was informed that seven had set off, and that one of the
men, Worthington, who went after them, had not returned. The weather had
been so oppressive during the whole journey, that I determined on resting
the cattle next day. This I did not mention however to the men, but I
ordered all the good bush hands to be off in search at daybreak. The care
of cattle, and particularly of horses on such journeys, requires great
attention; to stand idle on a fine morning, unable to proceed, until by
some fortunate chance, stray cattle or horses are discovered in a
boundless forest, is like a calm on the line, irksome enough; but there
is also the risk of losing the men sent in pursuit who, even after coming
on the objects of their search, may be unable afterwards to find the
camp, especially when there may be no watercourse to lead them to it.
December 7.
The weather still very sultry. The horses were brought in at a
quarter-past eight by Worthington, who had traced them up the valley to
two miles above our former encampment. The rich soil in this valley is
nearly as deep as the bed of the rivulet, which is twenty feet lower than
the surface; a substratum of gravel, similar to that in the bed of the
watercourse, appears in the bank; the pebbles, consisting chiefly of
trap-rock, seemed to be the water-worn debris of the Liverpool range. The
cattle and horses being at rest, we were occupied this day in making
various observations with our instruments, trying the rate of the
chronometer, etc. A thundercloud and a little rain afforded some relief
from the excessive heat of the atmosphere. The night was very calm; but
the mosquitoes were numerous and troublesome.
A SQUATTER.
December 8.
A road or track, which we found about half a mile east from the camp, led
us very directly, on the bearing of 335 degrees, to Loder's station,
distant about six miles from our encampment. Here stood a tolerable house
of slabs, with a good garden adjoining it, in charge of an old stockman
and his equally aged wife. This man was named by the blacks Longanay
(Long Ned).* The station was situated on a fine running stream called the
Cuerindie, and the state of the sheep and cattle about it proved the
excellence of the pasture. We passed the limits of the territory open to
the selection of settlers, in crossing the Liverpool range; and the more
remote country is not likely to come into the market soon. Such stations
as this of Loder were held therefore only by the right of pre-occupancy,
which has been so generally recognised among the colonists themselves,
that the houses, etc. of these stations are sometimes disposed of for
valuable considerations, although the land is liable to be sold by the
government.
(*Footnote. His wife, whom the natives had told me of as a white gin, was
perhaps the only white woman then dwelling beyond the mountains. She was
enveloped in numerous flannel petticoats, and presented a singular
contrast to the undraped slender native females, some of whom with
children I saw about the place, and who appeared to be treated by her
with great kindness.)
NATIVE GUIDE AND HIS GIN.
A native named Jemmy, whom I met with here, agreed to conduct me by the
best way for carts to Wallamoul on the Peel, for which service I
undertook to reward him with a tomahawk.* It was necessary, that we
should ford the Cuerindie, which flows to the north-west, and
notwithstanding the steepness of its banks, we effected a passage without
difficulty, guided by Jemmy. One mile beyond this, another creek lay in
our way. It was smaller, but much more formidable and difficult to cross,
for the bottom and banks consisted of blue-mud or clay, half-hardened on
the surface, yet soft and yielding below. It was not without considerable
delay, that we effected the passage, for a wheel of one of the carts
stuck fast in the mud, and it was necessary to dig away the earth in
front of the other wheel before we could release the vehicle. At length
everything was got across, and we fortunately met no other impediment for
six miles. We then crossed the channels of two rivulets, neither of which
contained any water. At half-past four I wished to encamp, and the
natives having at length found a green mantling pool in the bed of the
united channel of the two watercourses, we pitched our tents, at a place
called Burandua. Bad as the water seemed to be, Jemmy soon obtained some
which was both clear and cool, by digging a hole in the sand near the
pool. This native was a quiet and sensible fellow--he steadily pursued
the course he recommended for the wheelbarrows, as he termed our carts;
and answered all my queries briefly and decidedly, either by a nod of
assent, or the negative monosyllable Bel, with a shake of the head. His
walk was extremely light and graceful; his shoulders were neatly knit,
and the flowing luxuriance of his locks was restrained by a bit of
half-inch cord, the two ends hanging, like a double queue, halfway down
his back. He was followed by his gin and a child, which she usually
carried on her back, although it seemed old enough and able to walk.
(*Footnote. A small axe used for numerous purposes by the natives of
Australia.)
The air of evening was very refreshing, and the sun set with peculiar
brilliancy. We had travelled during the whole day on good soil, and the
ploughed appearance of the surface was very remarkable in various places,
particularly a little to the south of Loder's station, where the hollows
seemed to terminate in a common channel. I noticed also that the
direction of all the watercourses was towards the north-west, and it was
evident that the streams occasionally overflowed their banks.
December 9.
This morning the party was ready to proceed soon after five o'clock, but
the barometer got out of order while I was using it in the dry bed of the
rivulet, and some time was lost in an unsuccessful attempt to repair it.
This derangement of the instrument was very unfortunate at so early a
stage of our journey.
After travelling about seven miles and a half we perceived, on our left,
an open valley in which a numerous herd of cattle was feeding; and one
mile further on, we came upon a fine little stream, which was rather
difficult to cross, owing to the steepness of the banks. As the men were
at work taking the carts over one by one, the native and I were amused
with a large black snake, which was swimming about. On his casting a
stone at it the snake glided swiftly towards him, and the poor fellow
took to his heels, cautioning me to keep off, saying it would kill my
horse. But he soon returned to the charge, and having succeeded in
stunning it with stones, it was at length cut in two with my sabre. On
measuring this snake I found it to be nine inches in circumference, and
eight feet and a half in length.
Beyond that rivulet the country appeared tolerably open and level, so
that we could pursue our course in one direction nearly eight miles. The
most conspicuous hill on our right, was named by the native Barragundy.
It was visible during the whole of our day's journey. We at length
entered upon an open and grassy plain, and found in the skirts of the
wood beyond it, a channel containing water in abundance, and which was
known to the natives as Carrabobbila.* Beyond this channel arose a peaked
and picturesque range, whereof the highest summit was named Turi.
(*Footnote. Even before my men had seen this spot, the native name, in
their mouths, was corrupted into Terrible Billy!)
MODES OF DRINKING AU NATUREL.
The water, when we encamped, was hot and muddy, but the blacks knew well
how to obtain a cool and clean draught, by first scratching a hole in the
soft sand beside the pool, thus making a filter, in which the water rose
cooled but muddy. They next threw into this some tufts of long grass,
through which they sucked the cooler water thus purified also from the
sand or gravel. I was very glad to follow the example, and I found the
sweet fragrance of the grass an agreeable addition to the luxury of
drinking. But during the heat of the forenoon I had observed the female
quenching her thirst with still greater satisfaction, by rushing into a
pool, and drinking as she sat immersed up to the lip.
From Loder's station, we had travelled thus far on our way to Peel's
river, without having any road or track to follow, and I had marked the
trees along our line of route, which certainly seemed favourable for a
cart-road in that direction. Near Carrabobbila, we came upon the track
leading to Wallamoul, which was more circuitous, passing by other cattle
stations in the plains.
WOODS ON FIRE.
During the last three days of our journey, the woods were burning before
us, but fortunately the fire was one day's march in advance of our party,
and thus the flames had cleared everything away before our arrival, so
that our camp was not exposed to danger. This evening however, the
country seemed on fire all around us. The weather was calm and sultry,
particularly when the day closed in, and a very heavy storm, accompanied
by thunder, broke over us in the night.
December 10.
The morning was cloudy; and the rain, which we anxiously looked for, at
length came down, and soon checked the progress of the flames. On this
account, as well as on that of the want of water, it afforded
providential relief to us, for the hills we were about to cross had been
all in a blaze during the night. Trees lay smoking as we passed; several
gullies were difficult for the passage of carts, and detained the party
in its ascent.
CROSS THE TURI RANGE.
But at length we reached the top of this pass, and crossed the range,
which appeared to be continuous, thus separating the basin of the Peel
from that of the waters falling to Liverpool plains. We were agreeably
surprised to find that the opposite side of these hills, and the whole
face of the country beyond them, presented a very different appearance
from that through which we had passed. A gently sloping extremity lay
before us for eight miles in the direction of our proposed route, and we
were relieved from all the difficulties of crossing gullies, which had
impeded our ascent on the other side of the range. We encamped at some
waterholes, where this slope terminated in an extensive forest flat; over
the whole of which, as my sable guide informed me, there was no other
water at that time.
The grass on this side of the hills was good: and almost all the timber
consisted of box (eucalyptus). The heights which we had crossed appeared
to extend from the Liverpool range to the northward, as far as could be
seen; but the native told me, that it soon terminated on the river
Callala (or Peel) whose course, he said, turned westward (as he pointed);
a fact corroborating so far, the statements of The Bushranger.
ARRIVE ON THE RIVER PEEL.
December 11.
The weather cleared up at about six A.M.: and we travelled across a good
soil, throughout the whole of this day's journey. The country appeared
but thinly wooded, and without any hill or watercourse. After a journey
of thirteen miles, we reached the bank of the Peel at Wallamoul, the
lowest cattle station upon this river. It was occupied by Mr. Brown, who
had there about 1600 head of cattle. I gave to Jemmy, our excellent
guide, the promised tomahawk, also a knife to Monday his brother, whom he
met here. The river was so low that Mr. White and I passed over easily on
a tree which the flood had laid across it. The current however was
strong; and the men having been furnished from our stock with a few hooks
and lines, caught three large fishes by sunset. I met, at this place,
with some intelligent natives, from whom I learnt, that the spot where
Mr. Oxley crossed the Peel on his journey, was about two miles lower
down.
FISHES.
December 12.
At an early hour this morning, one of our men caught a fish, which
weighed eighteen pounds; but, according to the natives, this was no
uncommon size. These fishes are most erroneously called cod by the
colonists, although they certainly very much resemble cod in taste. The
flakes are firmer than sea cod, and equally white, the fish affording a
very light and palatable food. When dried in the same manner as the
Newfoundland cod, in which state I have tasted this fish at Bathurst, I
could not perceive any difference either in flavour or appearance.
Being at length about to enter the Terra incognita, I deemed it expedient
to repack our stores, in order that the load might be made as light and
compact as possible, and that we might pass with less difficulty over
whatever description of ground we were destined to encounter. With this
view, I directed the flour to be started from casks into bags, and made
such arrangements as tended materially to lessen the bulk of our
provisions and other necessary stores. Having questioned the natives with
regard to the course of the Peel, I learnt that, instead of flowing
northward, as hitherto supposed, it took a westerly direction, and was
soon joined by the Muluerindie, a river coming from the north-east. The
natives further assured me that there was a good ford below the junction
of these streams at a place called Wallanburra; and I determined to
proceed to this ford, as it was not advisable, with the Muluerindie
beyond, to cross the river above the junction.
ANOTHER NATIVE GUIDE.
Being anxious to procure another guide, the overseer at Wallamoul brought
me a native named Mr. Brown, who agreed to accompany our party on
condition that he should receive blankets for himself and his gin, and a
tomahawk, the latter being a small hatchet, which is so valuable a
substitute for their stone hatchet that almost all natives within reach
of the colony have them, even where the white man is known as yet only by
name--or as the manufacturer of this most important of all implements to
the Australian native.
EXPLORE THE PEEL.
December 13.
Mr. Finch having joined us on the previous evening, without procuring the
supply of flour that I had expected, I despatched him back this morning
to the Hunter's River district, with directions to procure as much flour,
tea, and sugar as he could pack on six bullocks, and to follow along my
line of marked trees with all possible speed. I furnished him with an
official letter to Mr. Dixon, in which I instructed that surveyor to
supply him with any article he could possibly spare from his own
equipment, without impeding the service on which he was engaged.
And now our arrangements being as complete as we could hope to make them,
under existing circumstances, we broke up our encampment at eight A.M.,
and proceeded in the interesting pursuit of the course of the Peel River.