CHAPTER I.

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Transcriber’s Note:

This version of the text cannot represent certain typographical effects.

Italics are delimited with the ‘_’ character as _italic_. The footnotes

have been collected at the end of the chapter in which they are

referenced. Illustration captions have been moved to fall on paragraph

breaks.

There are a number of musical scores, in the text, which could not be

rendered in this version. The lyrics, however, are given with hyphens to

represent the phrasing. Several of the songs are followed by the

complete lyrics as poetry.

Minor errors, attributable to the printer, have been corrected. Please

see the transcriber’s note at the end of this text for details regarding

the handling of any other textual issues encountered during its

preparation.

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LANE’S MODERN EGYPTIANS

[Illustration:

THE DÓSEH. (Page 416.)

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Frontispiece_

]

AN ACCOUNT OF THE

Manners and Customs of the

Modern Egyptians

Written in Egypt during the

Years 1833-1835

BY EDWARD WILLIAM LANE

Translator of _The Thousand and One Nights_

With Eighty Illustrations and Sixteen Full-Page

Engravings, and Biographical Notice of the Author

LONDON

WARD, LOCK AND CO. LIMITED

NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE

BIOGRAPHICAL INTRODUCTION.

[Illustration]

Fortunately in recent years many educated, observant, and enterprising

Englishmen have studied Mussulman life and character in many parts of

the world. The names of Sir Richard Burton and Edward Henry Palmer stand

as types of the later generation of these men; but in the early part of

this century no man can be named who has greater claims to recognition

and gratitude for his labours in this direction than Edward William

Lane. To him we owe an admirable translation of “The Thousand and One

Nights,” with notes, which form a complete encyclopædia of Arab manners

and customs; selections from the Koran, which introduce the English

reader to its most valuable portions; an invaluable Arabic-English

Lexicon; and lastly the present work, which has been described as “the

most remarkable description of a people ever written.”

Edward William Lane, third son of the Rev. Theophilus Lane, a Prebendary

of Hereford Cathedral, and of Sophia Gardiner, a niece of Gainsborough

the painter, was born at Hereford, on Sept. 17th, 1801, and largely

educated by his parents, especially his mother, to whom he owed much of

his intellectual and moral training. Having shown equal mastery of

classics and mathematics, he intended entering at Cambridge with a view

to taking holy orders, but abandoned this intention after a short visit

to Cambridge. Immediately afterwards he found himself able to solve all

the problems in the mathematical tripos of the year except one, the

solution to which came to him while asleep, and was at once written down

on waking in the middle of the night. Joining his elder brother Richard,

an able lithographer, in London, he made great progress in engraving and

other branches of art, which were afterwards of much value to him in

Egypt. Through overwork and want of exercise, he injured his

constitution, and nearly succumbed to an attack of fever. His subsequent

ill-health led him to contemplate a residence in the East, to which his

now rapidly progressing studies in Arabic had already attracted him. In

July, 1825, he left England in a brig bound for Alexandria. On Sept. 2nd

the vessel nearly foundered in a gale off Tunis; the master proved

incompetent, and begged Lane, who knew something of navigation, to take

the helm; and, lashed to the wheel, he succeeded in taking the brig

safely into Malta.

Arrived at Alexandria, he resolved to throw himself _con amore_ into

native life, to adopt native costume, speak Arabic continually, and

penetrate the inner life of the people. Several months were spent in

Cairo; at the Pyramids he lived in a tomb for a fortnight, with bones,

rags, and mummies for his companions; in 1826 he ascended the Nile to

the Second Cataract; everywhere recording his exact impressions, making

plans and careful drawings, and taking all trouble to secure accurate

knowledge. He returned to England in the autumn of 1828, with a complete

“Description of Egypt,” as it then was, and 101 excellent sepia

drawings, made with the camera lucida. But Egypt was not yet known or

appreciated in England, and publishers would not incur the expense of

publishing the work and reproducing the drawings, though they were

universally praised by all who saw them. Fortunately that part of the

work which gave an account of the modern inhabitants was shown to Lord

Brougham, who at once recommended its acceptance by the Society for the

Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. But in order to perfect the book, Lane

undertook to visit Egypt a second time, to stay two years, and still

more completely enter into the life of the Egyptians. The book, when

ready, was illustrated by admirable woodcuts drawn on the blocks by his

own hand; it was published in December, 1836, in two volumes. Its

success was immediate and great; other editions followed, the third,

much improved, being published by Charles Knight in 1842. It is from

this that the present edition is reprinted. Later editions have

contained various modifications, but nothing can add to the book as we

present it, as a perfect picture of what Lane saw in Egypt in 1833-5.

Even twenty-five years later, the people and their habits had in many

ways altered more than in several preceding centuries. We can never

reconstruct Egypt as Lane saw it, except by reading Lane’s description.

It has a permanent value as history, and thus no attempt has here been

made to modernise it, or to alter the references which he made to

“recent” or “present” times. It bears the stamp of a character

singularly open to the realisation of the genius of a different race

from his own, and as such it has few parallels in literature.

A fresh translation of the “Arabian Nights” was Lane’s next great work.

Instead of the misleading and imperfect translation still,

unfortunately, current, he made a version which reproduces the true

Oriental impression, informed with knowledge of and insight into the

people described. To it he added a vast number of notes, encyclopædic in

their range over Arab customs and institutions, and full of interest to

all classes of readers. It was published in monthly parts from 1838 to

1840. Next he arranged a valuable series of “Selections from the Koran,”

published in 1843. He now entered upon the work which for scholars

surpasses all his other efforts, though it is unknown to the general

reader. No Arabic-English Lexicon of any value existed: Lane devoted the

remainder of his life to filling the void. The language of the Koran was

rapidly becoming deteriorated in common speech, and it needed careful

study of manuscripts still existing, but watchfully secured from

unbelievers, to become truly at home in the classic language. The great

Arabic Lexicon, Taj-el-’Aroos, a combination of all preceding lexicons,

had to be transcribed throughout, by the aid of a learned Mohammedan, in

Cairo, for thirteen years, and then elaborately studied and translated

and modified by the aid of all possible authorities. It was Lord

Prudhoe’s (afterwards fourth Duke of Northumberland) munificence that

first enabled this to be done. In 1842 Lane left England again,

accompanied by his wife, a Greek lady whom he married in 1840, and by

his sister, Mrs. Poole (author of the “Englishwoman in Egypt”), and he

lived as a close student in Cairo till 1849, when he returned to

England. After that date he settled at Worthing, entirely devoted to his

great work, a worthy successor of Dr. Johnson in his strenuous devotion

to his great Dictionary, but in other respects his antithesis. Its

publication in eight volumes was not completed at his death, and the

last parts were superintended by his nephew, Mr. Stanley Lane-Poole, who

has written a brief life of his uncle, to which this introduction is

greatly indebted. Quiet, gentlemanly, courteous, genial, simple in

Christian faith and practice, while admitting the great critical light

which Semitic studies throw upon the Bible, earnest and pure-souled, “in

his presence a profane or impure speech was an impossibility; yet no one

was ever more gentle with that frailty for which the world has no pity.”

He died at Worthing, on August 10th, 1876. His name is imperishably

written among those of the giants of Arabic scholarship.

G. T. B.

PREFACE.

---

_Cairo, 1835_

During a former visit to this country, undertaken chiefly for the

purpose of studying the Arabic language in its most famous school, I

devoted much of my attention to the manners and customs of the Arab

inhabitants; and in an intercourse of two years and a half with this

people, soon found that all the information which I had previously been

able to obtain respecting them was insufficient to be of much use to the

student of Arabic literature, or to satisfy the curiosity of the general

reader. Hence I was induced to cover some quires of paper with notes on

the most remarkable of their usages, partly for my own benefit, and

partly in the hope that I might have it in my power to make some of my

countrymen better acquainted with the domiciliated classes of one of the

most interesting nations of the world, by drawing a detailed picture of

the inhabitants of the largest Arab city. The period of my first visit

to this country did not, however, suffice for the accomplishment of this

object, and for the prosecution of my other studies; and I relinquished

the idea of publishing the notes which I had made on the modern

inhabitants: but, five years after my return to England, those notes

were shown to some members of the Committee of the Society for the

Diffusion of Useful Knowledge, at whose suggestion, the Committee,

interested with the subjects of them, and with the novelty of some of

their contents engaged me to complete and print them. Encouraged by

their approbation, and relying upon their judgment, I immediately

determined to follow their advice, and, by the earliest opportunity,

again departed to Egypt. After another residence of more than a year in

the metropolis of this country, and half a year in Upper Egypt, I have

now accomplished, as well as I am able, the task proposed to me.[1]

It may be said, that the English reader already possesses an excellent

and ample description of Arab manners and customs, in Dr. Russell’s

account of the people of Aleppo. I will not forfeit my own claim to the

reputation of an honest writer, by attempting to detract from the just

merits of that valuable and interesting work; but must assert, that it

is, upon the whole, rather an account of _Turkish_ than of _Arab_

manners; and that neither the original Author, nor his brother, to whom

we are indebted for the enlarged and much-improved edition, was

sufficiently acquainted with the Arabic language to scrutinize some of

the most interesting subjects of inquiry which the plan of the work

required them to treat: nor would their well-known station in Aleppo, or

perhaps their national feelings, allow them to assume those disguises

which were necessary to enable them to become familiar with many of the

most remarkable religious ceremonies, opinions, and superstitions of the

people whom they have described. Deficiencies in their remarks on these

subjects are the only faults of any importance that I can discover in

their excellent and learned work.[2]

I have been differently circumstanced. Previously to my first visit to

this country, I acquired some knowledge of the language and literature

of the Arabs; and in a year after my first arrival here, I was able to

converse with the people among whom I was residing, with tolerable ease.

I have associated, almost exclusively, with Muslims, of various ranks in

society: I have lived as they live, conforming with their general

habits; and, in order to make them familiar and unreserved towards me on

every subject, have always avowed my agreement with them in opinion

whenever my conscience would allow me, and in most other cases,

refrained from the expression of my dissent, as well as from every

action which might give them disgust; abstaining from eating food

forbidden by their religion, and drinking wine, etc.; and even from

habits merely disagreeable to them; such as the use of knives and forks

at meals. Having made myself acquainted with all their common religious

ceremonies, I have been able to escape exciting, in strangers, any

suspicion of my being a person who had no right to intrude among them,

whenever it was necessary for me to witness any Muslim rite or festival.

While, from the dress which I have found most convenient to wear, I am

generally mistaken, in public, for a Turk. My acquaintances, of course,

know me to be an Englishman; but I constrain them to treat me as a

Muslim, by my freely acknowledging the hand of Providence in the

introduction and diffusion of the religion of El-Islám, and, when

interrogated, avowing my belief in the Messiah, in accordance with the

_words_ of the Kur-án, as the Word of God, infused into the womb of the

Virgin Mary, and a spirit proceeding from Him. Thus, I believe, I have

acquired their good opinion, and much of their confidence; though not to

such an extent as to prevent my having to contend with many

difficulties. The Muslims are very averse from giving information on

subjects connected with their religion or superstitions to persons whom

they suspect of differing from them in sentiments; but very ready to

talk on such subjects with those whom they think acquainted with them:

hence I have generally obtained some slight knowledge of matters

difficult for me thoroughly to learn from one of the most lax, and of

the least instructed, of my friends; so as to be able to draw into

conversation, upon the desired topics, persons of better information;

and by this mode I have invariably succeeded in overcoming their

scruples. I have had two professors of Arabic and of Muslim religion and

law as my regular, salaried tutors; and, by submitting to them questions

on any matters respecting which I was in doubt, have authenticated or

corrected, and added to, the information derived from conversation with

my other friends. Occasionally, also, I have applied to higher

authorities; having the happiness to number among my friends in this

city some persons of the highest attainments in Eastern learning.

Perhaps the reader may not be displeased if I here attempt to acquaint

him more particularly with one of my Muslim friends, the first of those

above alluded to; and to show, at the same time, the light in which he,

like others of his country, regards me in my present situation.—The

sheykh Ahmad (or seyyid Ahmad; for he is one of the numerous class of

“shereefs,” or descendants of the Prophet) is somewhat more than forty

years of age, by his own confession; but appears more near to fifty. He

is as remarkable in physiognomy as in character. His stature is under

the middle size: his beard reddish, and now becoming grey. For many

years he has been nearly blind: one of his eyes is almost entirely

closed; and both are ornamented, on particular occasions (at least on

the two grand annual festivals), with a border of the black pigment

called “kohl,” which is seldom used but by women. He boasts his descent

not only from the Prophet, but also from a very celebrated saint,

Esh-Shaaráwee;[3] and his complexion, which is very fair, supports his

assertion, that his ancestors, for several generations, lived in the

north-western parts of Africa. He obtains his subsistence from a slender

patrimony, and by exercising the trade of a bookseller. Partly to profit

in this occupation, and partly for the sake of society, or at least to

enjoy some tobacco and coffee, he is a visitor in my house almost every

evening.

For several years before he adopted the trade of a bookseller, which was

that of his father, he pursued no other occupation than that of

performing in the religious ceremonies called “zikrs;” which consist in

the repetition of the name and attributes, etc., of God, by a number of

persons, in chorus; and in such performances he is still often employed.

He was then a member of the order of the Saadeeyeh darweeshes, who are

particularly famous for devouring live serpents; and he is said to have

been one of the serpent-eaters: but he did not confine himself to food

so easily digested. One night, during a meeting of a party of darweeshes

of his order, at which their Sheykh was present, my friend became

affected with religious frenzy, seized a tall glass shade which

surrounded a candle placed on the floor, and ate a large portion of it.

The Sheykh and the other darweeshes, looking at him with astonishment,

upbraided him with having broken the institutes of his order; since the

eating of glass was not among the miracles which they were allowed to

perform; and they immediately expelled him. He then entered the order of

the Ahmedeeyeh; and as they, likewise, never ate glass, he determined

not to do so again. However, soon after, at a meeting of some brethren

of this order, when several Saadeeyeh also were present, he again was

seized with frenzy, and, jumping up to a chandelier, caught hold of one

of the small glass lamps attached to it, and devoured about half of it,

swallowing also the oil and water which it contained. He was conducted

before his Sheykh, to be tried for this offence; but, on his taking an

oath never to eat glass again, he was neither punished not expelled the

order. Notwithstanding this oath, he soon again gratified his propensity

to eat a glass lamp; and a brother-darweesh, who was present, attempted

to do the same; but a large fragment stuck between the tongue and palate

of this rash person; and my friend had great trouble to extract it. He

was again tried by his Sheykh; and, being reproached for having broken

his oath and vow of repentance, he coolly answered, “I repent again:

repentance is good: for He whose name be exalted hath said, in the

Excellent Book, ‘Verily, God loveth the repentant.’” The Sheykh, in

anger, exclaimed, “Dost thou dare to act in this manner, and then come

and cite the Kur-án before me?”—and with this reproof, he ordered that

he should be imprisoned ten days: after which, he made him again swear

to abstain from eating glass; and on this condition he was allowed to

remain a member of the Ahmedeeyeh. This second oath he professes not to

have broken.—The person whose office it was to prosecute him related to

me these facts; and my friend reluctantly confessed them to be true.

When I was first acquainted with the sheykh Ahmad, he had long been

content with one wife; but now he has indulged himself with a second,[4]

who continues to live in her parents’ house: yet he has taken care to

assure me, that he is not rich enough to refuse my yearly present of a

dress. On my visiting him for the second time during my present

residence in this place, his mother came to the door of the room in

which I was sitting with him, to complain to me of his conduct in taking

this new wife. Putting her hand within the door, to give greater effect

to her words by proper action (or perhaps to show how beautifully the

palm, and the tips of the fingers, glowed with the fresh red dye of the

“henna”), but concealing the rest of her person, she commenced a most

energetic appeal to my sympathy.—“O Efendee!” she exclaimed, “I throw

myself upon thy mercy! I kiss thy feet! I have no hope but in God and

thee!” “What words are these, my mistress?” said I: “what misfortune

hath befallen thee? and what can I do for thee? Tell me.” “This son of

mine,” she continued, “this my son Ahmad, is a worthless fellow: he has

a wife here, a good creature, with whom he has lived happily, with God’s

blessing, for sixteen years; and now he has neglected her and me, and

given himself up to a second wife, a young, impudent wench: he lavishes

his money upon this monkey, and others like her, and upon her father and

mother and uncles and brother and brother’s children, and I know not

whom besides, and abridges us, that is, myself and his first wife, of

the comforts of which we were before accustomed. By the Prophet! and by

thy dear head! I speak truth. I kiss thy feet, and beg thee to insist

upon his divorcing his new wife.”—The poor man looked a little foolish

while his mother was thus addressing me from behind the door; and as

soon as she was gone, promised to do what she desired. “But,” said he,

“it is a difficult case. I was in the habit of sleeping occasionally in

the house of the brother of the girl whom I have lately taken as my

wife: he is a clerk in the employ of ’Abbás Básha; and rather more than

a year ago, ’Abbás Básha sent for me, and said, ‘I hear that you are

often sleeping in the house of my clerk Mohammad. Why do you act so? Do

you not know that it is very improper, when there are women in the

house?’ I said, ‘I am going to marry his sister.’ ‘Then why have you not

married her already?’ asked the Básha. ‘She is only nine years of age.’

‘Is the marriage contract made?’ ‘No.’ ‘Why not?’ ‘I cannot afford, at

present, to give the dowry.’ ‘What is the dowry to be?’ ‘Ninety

piasters.’ ‘Here, then,’ said the Básha, ‘take the money, and let the

contract be concluded immediately.’ So you see I was obliged to marry

the girl; and I am afraid that the Básha will be angry if I divorce her:

but I will act in such a manner that her brother shall insist upon the

divorce; and then, please God, I shall live in peace again.”—This is a

good example of the comfort of having two wives.

A short time since, upon his offering me a copy of the Kur-án for sale,

he thought it necessary to make some excuse for his doing so. He

remarked that, by my conforming with many of the ceremonies of the

Muslims, I tacitly professed myself to be one of them; and that it was

incumbent upon him to regard me in the most favourable light, which he

was the more willing to do because he knew that I should incur the

displeasure of my King by making an open profession of the faith of

El-Islám, and therefore could not do it.[5] “You give me,” said he, “the

salutation of ‘Peace be on you!’ and it would be impious in me, being

directly forbidden by my religion, to pronounce you an unbeliever; for

God, whose name be exalted, hath said, ‘Say not unto him who greeteth

thee with peace, Thou art not a believer:’[6] therefore,” he added, “it

is no sin in me to put into your hands the noble Kur-án: but there are

some of your countrymen who will take it in unclean hands, and even sit

upon it! I beg God’s forgiveness for talking of such a thing: far be it

from you to do so; you, praise be to God, know and observe the command,

‘None shall touch it but they who are purified.’”[7]—He once sold a copy

of the Kur-án, on my application, to a countryman of mine, who, being

disturbed, just as the bargain was concluded, by some person entering

the room, hastily put the sacred book upon the seat, and under a part of

his dress, to conceal it. The bookseller was much scandalized by this

action; thinking that my friend was sitting upon the book, and that he

was doing so to show his contempt of it: he declares his belief that he

has been heavily punished by God for this unlawful sale.—There was only

one thing that I had much difficulty in persuading him to do during my

former visit to this country: which was, to go with me, at a particular

period, into the mosque of the Hasaneyn, the reputed burial-place of the

head of El-Hoseyn, and the most sacred of the mosques in the Egyptian

metropolis. On my passing with him before one of the entrances of this

building, one afternoon during the fast of Ramadán, when it was crowded

with Turks, and many of the principal people of the city were among the

congregation, I thought it a good opportunity to see it to the greatest

advantage, and asked my companion to go in with me. He positively

refused, in the fear of my being discovered to be an Englishman, which

might so rouse the fanatic anger of some of the Turks there as to expose

me to some act of violence. I therefore entered alone. He remained at

the door, following me with his eye only (or his only eye), and

wondering at my audacity; but as soon as he saw me acquit myself in the

usual manner, by walking round the bronze screen which surrounds the

monument over the spot where the head of the martyr is said to be

buried, and then putting myself into the regular postures of prayer, he

came in, and said his prayers by my side.

After relating these anecdotes, I should mention, that the characters of

my other acquaintances here are not marked by similar eccentricities. My

attentions to my visitors have been generally confined to the common

usages of Eastern hospitality; supplying them with pipes and coffee, and

welcoming them to a share of my dinner or supper. Many of their

communications I have written in Arabic, at their dictation, and since

translated and inserted in the following pages. What I have principally

aimed at, in this work, is correctness; and I do not scruple to assert,

that I am not conscious of having endeavoured to render interesting any

matter that I have related by the slightest sacrifice of truth.

P.S.—With regard to the engravings which accompany this work, I should

mention, that they are from drawings which I have made, not to embellish

the pages, but merely to explain the text.

ADVERTISEMENT

TO THE

THIRD EDITION.

---

Since the publication of the first edition of the present work, the

studies in which I have been engaged have enabled me to improve it by

various corrections and additions; and the success which it has obtained

(a success very far beyond my expectations) has excited me to use my

utmost endeavours to rectify its errors and supply its defects.

In reading the Kur-án, with an Arabic commentary, I have found that

Sale’s version, though deserving of high commendation for its general

accuracy, is incorrect in many important passages; and hence I have been

induced to revise with especial care my abstract of the principal Muslim

laws: for as Sale had excellent commentaries to consult, and I, when I

composed that abstract, had none, I placed great reliance on his

translation. My plan, in the execution of that portion of my work, was

to make use of Sale’s translation as the basis, and to add what appeared

necessary from the Sunneh and other sources, chiefly at the dictation of

a professor of law, who was my tutor: but I have found that my

foundation was in several points faulty.

I am indebted to a gentleman who possesses a thorough knowledge of the

spirit of Muslim institutions[8] for the suggestion of some improvements

in the same and other portions of this work; and observations made by

several intelligent critics have lessened the labour of revision and

emendation.

I have also profited, on this occasion, by a paper containing a number

of corrections and additions written in Egypt, which I had mislaid and

forgotten: but none of these are of much importance.

The mode in which Arabic words were transcribed in the previous editions

I thought better calculated than any other to enable an English reader,

unacquainted with the Arabic language, to pronounce those words with

tolerable accuracy; but it was liable to serious objections, and was

disagreeable, in some respects, to most Oriental scholars, and to

myself. I have therefore now employed, in its stead, as I did in my

translation of “The Thousand and One Nights,” a system congenial with

our language, and of the most simple kind; and to this system I adhere

in every case, for the sake of uniformity as well as _truth_.[9] It

requires little explanation: the general reader may be directed to

pronounce

“a” as in our word “beggar:”[10] “i” as in “bid:”

“á” as in “father:”[11] “o” as in “obey” (short):

“e” as in “bed:” “ó” as in “bone:”

“é” as in “there:” “oo” as in “boot:”

“ee” as in “bee:” “ow” as in “down:”

“ei” as our word “eye:” “u” as in “bull:”

“ey” as in “they:” “y” as in “you.”

An _apostrophe_, when immediately preceding or following a vowel, I

employ to denote the place of a letter which has no equivalent in our

alphabet: it has a guttural sound, like that which is heard in the

bleating of sheep.

The usual sign of a _diæresis_ I sometimes employ to show that a final

“e” is not mute, but pronounced as that letter, when unaccented, in the

beginning or middle of a word.

Having avoided as much as possible marking the _accentuation_ in Arabic

words, I must request the reader to bear in mind, not only that a single

vowel, when not marked with an accent, is always short; but that a

double vowel, or diphthong, at the end of a word, when not so marked, is

not accented (“Welee,” for instance, being pronounced “Wĕ′lee,” or

“Wel′ee,”): also, that the accents do not always denote the principal or

only emphasis (“Sháweesh” being pronounced “Sháwee′sh”); and that “dh,”

“gh,” “kh,” “sh,” and “th,” when not divided by a hyphen, represent,

each, a single Arabic letter.

As some readers may observe that many Arabic words are written

differently in this work and in my translation of “The Thousand and One

Nights,” it is necessary to add, that in the present case I write such

words agreeably with the general pronunciation of the educated classes

in Cairo. For the same reason I often use the same European character to

express two Arabic letters which in Egypt are pronounced alike.

E W L

_May, 1842._

CONTENTS.

---

PAGE

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE OF THE AUTHOR v

PREFACE ix

ADVERTISEMENT TO THE THIRD EDITION xviii

INTRODUCTION.

THE COUNTRY AND CLIMATE—METROPOLIS—HOUSES—POPULATION 1

CHAPTER

I. —PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS AND DRESS OF THE MUSLIM 21

EGYPTIANS

II. —INFANCY AND EARLY EDUCATION 42

III. —RELIGION AND LAWS 52

IV. —GOVERNMENT 98

V. —DOMESTIC LIFE (MEN OF THE HIGHER AND MIDDLE ORDERS) 120

VI. —DOMESTIC LIFE, _continued_ (WOMEN OF THE HIGHER AND 141

MIDDLE ORDERS)

VII. —DOMESTIC LIFE, _continued_ (THE LOWER ORDERS) 174

VIII. —COMMON USAGES OF SOCIETY 179

IX. —LANGUAGE, LITERATURE, AND SCIENCE 188

X. —SUPERSTITIONS (GENII, SAINTS, AND DARWEESHES) 202

XI. —SUPERSTITIONS, _continued_ (CHARMS AND AUGURATION) 226

XII. —MAGIC, ASTROLOGY, AND ALCHEMY 242

XIII. —CHARACTER 255

XIV. —INDUSTRY 285

XV. —USE OF TOBACCO, COFFEE, HEMP, OPIUM, ETC. 303

XVI. —THE BATH 307

XVII. —GAMES 315

XVIII. —MUSIC 323

XIX. —PUBLIC DANCERS 347

XX. —SERPENT-CHARMERS AND PERFORMERS OF LEGERDEMAIN 352

TRICKS, ETC.

XXI. —PUBLIC RECITATIONS OF ROMANCES 359

XXII. —PUBLIC RECITATIONS OF ROMANCES, _continued_ 367

XXIII. —PUBLIC RECITATIONS OF ROMANCES, _continued_ 380

XXIV. —PERIODICAL PUBLIC FESTIVALS, ETC. (THOSE OF THE FIRST 391

THREE MONTHS OF THE MUSLIM YEAR)

XXV. —PERIODICAL PUBLIC FESTIVALS, ETC., _continued_. 421

(THOSE OF THE FOURTH AND FOLLOWING MONTHS OF THE

MUSLIM YEAR)

XXVI. —PERIODICAL PUBLIC FESTIVALS, ETC., _continued_. 451

(THOSE OF THE SOLAR YEAR)

XXVII. —PRIVATE FESTIVITIES, ETC. 463

XXVIII. —DEATH AND FUNERAL RITES 473

SUPPLEMENT.

I. —THE COPTS 489

II. —THE JEWS OF EGYPT 512

III. —OF LATE INNOVATIONS IN EGYPT 515

APPENDIX A.

FEMALE ORNAMENTS 519

APPENDIX B.

EGYPTIAN MEASURES, WEIGHTS, AND MONEYS 532

APPENDIX C.

PRAYER OF MUSLIM SCHOOL-BOYS 536

LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Doseh (see p. 416) _Frontispiece_.

Private Houses in Cairo Facing page 5

Court of a Private House in Cairo ” ” 9

A Käah ” ” 16

Men of the Middle and Higher Classes ” ” 25

A Lady in the Dress worn in private ” ” 33

A Woman of the Southern Province of Upper Egypt ” ” 42

(sketched at Thebes)

Parade previous to Circumcision ” ” 48

Bridal Procession (Part I.) ” ” 150

Bridal Procession (Part II.) ” ” 152

Shops in a Street in Cairo ” ” 289

Shop of a Turkish Merchant ” ” 293

The Shádoof ” ” 300

A Sha′er, with his accompanying Violist ” ” 359

Funeral Procession ” ” 477

Sketch of a Tomb with the Entrance uncovered ” ” 484

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.

PAGE

Door of a Private House 6

Specimens of Lattice-work 7

Fountain 9

Suffeh 10

Specimens of Panel-work 12

Ceiling of a Durká’ah 13

Ceiling of a projecting Window 13

Wooden Lock 15

Fellaheen 27

An Eye ornamented with Kohl 30

Muk-hul′ahs and Mirweds 30

Ancient Vessel and Probe for Kohl 31

An Eye and Eyebrow ornamented with Kohl, as represented in 31

ancient Paintings

Hands and Feet stained with Henna 32

A tattooed Girl 34

Specimens of Tattooing on the Chin 34

Tattooed Hands and Foot 34

A Lady adorned with the Kurs and Safa, etc. 36

Lady attired for Riding or Walking 38

Fellah Women 40

Ornamented black Veils 41

Postures of Prayer (Part I.) 64

Postures of Prayer (Part II.) 65

Interior of a Mosque 68

Pipes 123

Coffee-service 125

’A’z’kee and Mankals 127

Washing before or after a Meal 129

Tisht and Ibreek 130

Kursee and Seeneeyeh 131

A Party at Dinner or Supper 132

Water-bottles 135

Sherbet-cups 137

Lantern, etc., suspended on the occasion of a Wedding 149

Mesh′als 154

Kumkum and Mibkhar’ah 185

Magic Invocation and Charm 248

Magic Square and Mirror of Ink 249

Water-carriers 296

Hemalees 298

Plan of a Bath 309

Section of the Harárah 311

Foot-rasps 312

Mankal′ah 315

Seega 320

Kemengeh 327

Kánoon 328

Egyptian Musical Instruments, Pipe, Ornaments, etc. 330

Náy 331

Rabáb esh-Shá’er 332

Ságát 334

Tár 334

Darabukkeh 334

Earthen Darabukkeh 335

Zummárah 335

Mouth-piece of the Zummárah 335

Arghool 335

The Mahmal 404

Diamond Kurs 520

Gold Kurs 521

Kussah 522

’Enebeh 522

Kamarahs 523

Sákiyeh 523

’Ood es-Saleeb 523

Mishts 523

’Akeek 523

Belloor 523

Ear-rings 525

Necklaces 526

Bracelets 527

Bark 529

Másoorah 529

Habbeh 529

Shiftish′eh 529

Anklets 529

Hegábs 530

Nose-rings 531

THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS

OF THE

MODERN EGYPTIANS.

[Illustration]

INTRODUCTION.

THE COUNTRY AND CLIMATE—METROPOLIS—HOUSES—POPULATION.

It is generally observed that many of the most remarkable peculiarities

in the manners, customs, and character of a nation are attributable to

the physical peculiarities of the country. Such causes, in an especial

manner, affect the moral and social slate of the modern Egyptians, and

therefore here require some preliminary notice; but it will not as yet

be necessary to explain their particular influences: these will be

evinced in many subsequent parts of the present work.

The Nile, in its course through the narrow and winding valley of Upper

Egypt, which is confined on each side by mountainous and sandy deserts,

as well as through the plain of Lower Egypt, is everywhere bordered,

excepting in a very few places, by cultivated fields of its own

formation. These cultivated tracts are not perfectly level, being

somewhat lower towards the deserts than in the neighbourhood of the

river. They are interspersed with palm groves and villages, and

intersected by numerous canals. The copious summer rains which prevail

in Abyssinia and the neighbouring countries begin to show their effects

in Egypt, by the rising of the Nile, about the period of the summer

solstice. By the autumnal equinox, the river attains its greatest

height, which is always sufficient to fill the canals by which the

fields are irrigated, and, generally, to inundate large portions of the

cultivable land: it then gradually falls until the period when it again

begins to rise. Being impregnated, particularly during its rise, with

rich soil washed down from the mountainous countries whence it flows, a

copious deposit is annually spread, either by the natural inundation or

by artificial irrigation, over the fields which border it; while its

bed, from the same cause, rises in an equal degree. The Egyptians depend

entirely upon their river for the fertilization of the soil, rain being

a very rare phenomenon in their country, excepting in the neighbourhood

of the Mediterranean; and as the seasons are perfectly regular, the

peasant may make his arrangements with the utmost precision respecting

the labour he will have to perform. Sometimes his labour is light; but

when it consists in raising water for irrigation it is excessively

severe.

The climate of Egypt, during the greater part of the year, is remarkably

salubrious. The exhalations from the soil after the period of the

inundation render the latter part of the autumn less healthy than the

summer and winter; and cause ophthalmia and dysentery, and some other

diseases, to be more prevalent then than at other seasons; and during a

period of somewhat more or less than fifty days (called

“el-khamáseen[12]”), commencing in April, and lasting throughout May,

hot southerly winds occasionally prevail for about three days together.

These winds, though they seldom cause the thermometer of Fahrenheit to

rise above 95° in Lower Egypt, or, in Upper Egypt, 105°,[13] are

dreadfully oppressive, even to the natives. When the plague visits

Egypt, it is generally in the spring; and this disease is most severe in

the period of the khamáseen. Egypt is also subject, particularly during

the spring and summer, to the hot wind called the “samoom,” which is

still more oppressive than the khamáseen winds, but of much shorter

duration, seldom lasting longer than a quarter of an hour or twenty

minutes. It generally proceeds from the south-east, or south-south-east,

and carries with it clouds of dust and sand. The general height of the

thermometer in the depth of winter in Lower Egypt, in the afternoon and

in the shade, is from 50° to 60°: in the hottest season it is from 90°

to 100°; and about ten degrees higher in the southern parts of Upper

Egypt. But though the summer heat is so great it is seldom very

oppressive, being generally accompanied by a refreshing northerly

breeze, and the air being extremely dry. There is, however, one great

source of discomfort arising from this dryness—namely, an excessive

quantity of dust; and there are other plagues which very much detract

from the comfort which the natives of Egypt, and visitors to their

country, otherwise derive from its genial climate. In spring, summer,

and autumn, flies are so abundant as to be extremely annoying during the

daytime, and musquitoes are troublesome at night (unless a curtain be

made use of to keep them away), and sometimes even in the day; and every

house that contains much wood-work (as most of the better houses do)

swarms with bugs during the warm weather. Lice are not always to be

avoided in any season, but they are easily got rid of; and in the cooler

weather fleas are excessively numerous.

The climate of Upper Egypt is more healthy, though hotter, than that of

Lower Egypt. The plague seldom ascends far above Cairo, the metropolis;

and is most common in the marshy parts of the country, near the

Mediterranean. During the last ten years, the country having been better

drained, and quarantine regulations adopted to prevent or guard against

the introduction of this disease from other countries, very few plague

cases have occurred, excepting in the parts above mentioned, and in

those parts the pestilence has not been severe.[14] Ophthalmia is also

more common in Lower Egypt than in the southern parts. It generally

arises from checked perspiration, but is aggravated by the dust and many

other causes. When remedies are promptly employed, this disease is

seldom alarming in its progress; but vast numbers of the natives of

Egypt, not knowing how to treat it, or obstinately resigning themselves

to fate, are deprived of the sight of one or both of their eyes.

205589771

When questioned respecting the salubrity of Egypt, I have often been

asked whether many aged persons are seen among the inhabitants: few,

certainly, attain a great age in this country; but how few do, in our

own land, without more than once suffering from an illness that would

prove fatal without medical aid, which is obtained by a very small

number in Egypt! The heat of the summer months is sufficiently

oppressive to occasion considerable lassitude, while, at the same time,

it excites the Egyptian to intemperance in sensual enjoyments; and the

exuberant fertility of the soil engenders indolence, little nourishment

sufficing for the natives, and the sufficiency being procurable without

much exertion.

The modern Egyptian metropolis, to the inhabitants of which most of the

contents of the following pages relate, is now called “Masr”;[15] more

properly, “Misr”; but was formerly named “El-Káhireh”; whence Europeans

have formed the name of _Cairo_. It is situated at the entrance of the

valley of Upper Egypt, midway between the Nile and the eastern mountain

range of Mukattam. Between it and the river there intervenes a tract of

land, for the most part cultivated, which, in the northern parts (where

the port of Boolák is situated), is more than a mile in width, and, at

the southern part, less than half a mile wide. The metropolis occupies a

space equal to about three square miles; and its population is about two

hundred and forty thousand. It is surrounded by a wall, the gates of

which are shut at night, and is commanded by a large citadel, situated

at an angle of the town, near a point of the mountain. The streets are

unpaved, and most of them are narrow and irregular: they might more

properly be called lanes.

By a stranger who merely passed through the streets, Cairo would be

regarded as a very close and crowded city; but that this is not the case

is evident to a person who overlooks the town from the top of a lofty

house, or from the menaret of a mosque. The great thoroughfare-streets

have generally a row of shops along each side. Above the shops are

apartments which do not communicate with them, and which are seldom

occupied by the persons who rent the shops. To the right and left of the

great thoroughfares are bye-streets and quarters. Most of the

bye-streets are thoroughfares, and have a large wooden gate at each end,

closed at night, and kept by a porter within, who opens to any persons

requiring to be admitted. The quarters mostly consist of several narrow

lanes, having but one general entrance, with a gate, which is also

closed at night; but several have a bye-street passing through them.

-------------------------------------------

[Illustration: PRIVATE HOUSES IN CAIRO.]

The street in this view is wider than usual. The projecting windows on

opposite sides of a street often nearly meet each other, almost entirely

excluding the sun, and thus producing an agreeable coolness in the

summer.

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Page 5_

-------------------------------------------

Of the private houses of the metropolis it is particularly necessary

that I should give a description. The accompanying engraving will serve

to give a general notion of their exterior. The foundation-walls, to the

height of the first floor, are cased, externally, and often internally,

with the soft calcareous stone of the neighbouring mountain. The surface

of the stone, when newly cut, is of a light yellowish hue; but its

colour soon darkens. The alternate courses of the front are sometimes

coloured red and white,[16] particularly in large houses; as is the case

with most mosques. The superstructure, the front of which generally

projects about two feet, and is supported by corbels or piers, is of

brick, and often plastered. The bricks are burnt, and of a dull red

colour. The mortar is generally composed of mud in the proportion of

one-half, with a fourth part of lime, and the remaining part of the

ashes of straw and rubbish. Hence the unplastered walls of brick are of

a dirty colour, as if the bricks were unburnt. The roof is flat, and

covered with a coat of plaster.

The most usual architectural style of the entrance of a private house in

Cairo is shown by the sketch here inserted. The door is often ornamented

in the manner here represented: the compartment in which is the

inscription, and the other similarly-shaped compartments, are painted

red, bordered with white; the rest of the surface of the door is painted

green. The inscription, “He (_i.e._, God) is the excellent Creator, the

Everlasting” (the object of which will be explained when I treat of the

superstitions of the Egyptians), is seen on many doors; but is far from

being general. It is usually painted in black or white characters. Few

doors but those of large houses are painted. They generally have an iron

knocker and a wooden lock; and there is usually a mounting-stone by the

side.

[Illustration: DOOR OF A PRIVATE HOUSE.]

The ground floor apartments next the street have small wooden grated

windows, placed sufficiently high to render it impossible for a person

passing by in the street, even on horseback, to see through them. The

windows of the upper apartments generally project a foot and a half, or

more, and are mostly formed of turned wooden lattice-work, which is so

close that it shuts out much of the light and sun, and screens the

inmates of the house from the view of persons without, while at the same

time it admits the air. They are generally of unpainted wood; but some

few are partially painted red and green, and some are entirely painted.

A window of this kind is called a “róshan,” or, more commonly, a

“meshrebeeyeh,” which latter word has another application, that will be

mentioned below. Several windows of different descriptions are

represented in some of the illustrations of this work; and sketches of

the most common patterns of the lattice-work, on a larger scale, are

here inserted.[17] Sometimes a window of the kind above described has a

little meshrebeeyeh, which somewhat resembles a róshan in miniature,

projecting from the front, or from each side. In this, in order to be

exposed to a current of air, are placed porous earthen bottles, which

are used for cooling water by evaporation. Hence the name of

“meshrebeeyeh,” which signifies “a place for drink,” or “—for drinking.”

The projecting window has a flat one of lattice-work, or of grating of

wood, or of coloured glass, immediately above it. This upper window, if

of lattice-work, is often of a more fanciful construction than the

others, exhibiting a representation of a basin with a ewer above it, or

the figure of a lion, or the name of “Allah,” or the words “God is my

hope,” etc. Some projecting windows are wholly constructed of boards,

and a few have frames of glass in the sides. In the better houses, also,

the windows of lattice-work are now generally furnished with frames of

glass in the inside, which in the winter are wholly closed: for a

penetrating cold is felt in Egypt when the thermometer of Fahrenheit is

below 60°. The windows of inferior houses are mostly of a different

kind, being even with the exterior surface of the wall: the upper part

is of wooden lattice-work, or grating; and the lower closed by hanging

shutters; but many of these have a little meshrebeeyeh for the

water-bottles, projecting from the lower part.[18]

[Illustration:

SPECIMENS OF LATTICE WORK.

From the centre of one row of beads to that of the next (in these

specimens) is between an inch and a quarter and an inch and

three-quarters.

]

The houses in general are two or three storeys high; and almost every

house that is sufficiently large encloses an open, unpaved court, called

a “hósh,” which is entered by a passage that is constructed with one or

two turnings, for the purpose of preventing passengers in the street

from seeing into it. In this passage, just within the door, there is a

long stone seat, called “mastab′ah,” built against the back or side

wall, for the porter and other servants. In the court is a well of

slightly brackish water, which filters through the soil from the Nile;

and on its most shaded side are, commonly, two water-jars, which are

daily replenished with water of the Nile, brought from the river in

skins.[19] The principal apartments look into the court; and their

exterior walls (those which are of brick) are plastered and whitewashed.

There are several doors, which are entered from the court. One of these

is called “báb el-hareem” (the door of the hareem): it is the entrance

of the stairs which lead to the apartments appropriated exclusively to

the women and their master and his children.[20]

-------------------------------------------

[Illustration: COURT OF A PRIVATE HOUSE IN CAIRO]

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Page 9_

-------------------------------------------

[Illustration: FOUNTAIN.]

In general, there is, on the ground floor, an apartment called a

“mandar′ah,” in which male visitors are received. This has a wide wooden

grated window, or two windows of this kind, next the court. A small part

of the floor, extending from the door to the opposite side of the room,

is six or seven inches lower than the rest: this part is called the

“durká’ah.”[21] In a handsome house, the durká’ah of the mandar′ah is

paved with white and black marble, and little pieces of fine red tile,

inlaid in complicated and tasteful patterns, and has in the centre a

fountain (called “faskeeyeh”), which plays into a small shallow pool,

lined with coloured marbles, etc., like the surrounding pavement. I give

a sketch of the fountain. The water which falls from the fountain is

drained off from the pool by a pipe. There is generally, fronting the

door, at the end of the durká’ah, a shelf of marble or of common stone,

about four feet high, called a “suffeh,” supported by two or more

arches, or by a single arch, under which are placed utensils in ordinary

use—such as perfuming vessels, and the basin and ewer which are used for

washing before and after meals, and for the ablution preparatory to

prayer: water-bottles, coffee cups, etc., are placed upon the suffeh. In

handsome houses, the arches of the suffeh are faced with marble and

tile, like the pool of the fountain represented in the sketch above, and

sometimes the wall over it, to the height of about four feet or more, is

also cased with similar materials: partly with large upright slabs, and

partly with small pieces, like the durká’ah. The raised part of the

floor of the room is called “leewán”[22] (a corruption of “el-eewán,”

which signifies “any raised place to sit upon,” and also “a palace”).

Every person slips off his shoes on the durká’ah before he steps upon

the leewán.[23] The latter is generally paved with common stone, and

covered with a mat in summer, and a carpet over the mat in winter; and

has a mattress and cushions placed against each of its three walls,

composing what is called a “deewán,” or divan. The mattress, which is

generally about three feet wide and three or four inches thick, is

placed either on the ground or on a raised frame; and the cushions,

which are usually of a length equal to the width of the mattress, and of

a height equal to half that measure, lean against the wall. Both

mattresses and cushions are stuffed with cotton, and are covered with

printed calico, cloth, or some more expensive stuff. The walls are

plastered and whitewashed. There are generally, in the walls, two or

three shallow cupboards, the doors of which are composed of very small

panels, on account of the heat and dryness of the climate, which cause

wood to warp and shrink as if it were placed in an oven; for which

reason the doors of the apartments also are constructed in the same

manner. We observe great variety and much ingenuity displayed in the

different modes in which these small panels are formed and disposed. A

few specimens are here introduced. The ceiling over the leewán is of

wood, with carved beams, generally about a foot apart, partially

painted, and sometimes gilt. But that part of the ceiling which is over

the durká’ah, in a handsome house, is usually more richly decorated;

here, instead of beams, numerous thin strips of wood are nailed upon the

planks, forming patterns curiously complicated, yet perfectly regular,

and having a highly ornamental effect. I give a sketch of the half of a

ceiling thus decorated, but not in the most complicated style. The

strips are painted yellow or gilt; and the spaces within, painted green,

red, and blue.[24] In the example which I have inserted, the colours are

as indicated in the sketch of a portion of the same on a larger scale,

excepting in the square in the centre of the ceiling, where the strips

are black, upon a yellow ground. From the centre of this square a

chandelier is often suspended. There are many patterns of a similar

kind; and the colours generally occupy similar places with regard to

each other; but in some houses these ceilings are not painted. The

ceiling of a projecting window is often ornamented in the same manner. A

sketch of one is here given. Good taste is evinced by only decorating in

this manner parts which are not always before the eyes; for to look long

at so many lines intersecting each other in various directions would be

painful.

[Illustration: SUFFEH.]

In some houses (as in that which is the subject of the engraving

opposite p. 9) there is another room, called a “mak’ad,” for the same

use as the mandar′ah, having an open front, with two or more arches and

a low railing; and also, on the ground floor, a square recess, called a

“takhtabósh,” with an open front, and generally a pillar to support the

wall above: its floor is a paved leewán; and there is a long wooden sofa

placed along one, or two, or each of its three walls. The court, during

the summer, is frequently sprinkled with water, which renders the

surrounding apartments agreeably cool—or at least those on the

ground-floor. All the rooms are furnished in the same manner as that

first described.

[Illustration:

SPECIMENS OF PANEL-WORK.

These are represented on a scale of one inch to twenty-four or thirty.

]

Among the upper apartments, or those of the Hareem, there is generally

one called a “ká’ah,” which is particularly lofty. It has two

leewáns—one on each hand of a person entering: one of these is generally

larger than the other, and is the more honourable part. A portion of the

roof of this saloon, the part which is over the durká’ah that divides

the two leewáns, is a little elevated above the rest; and has, in the

centre, a small lantern, called “memrak,” the sides of which are

composed of lattice-work, like the windows before described, and support

a cupola. The durká’ah is commonly without a fountain; but is often

paved in a similar manner to that of the mandar’ah, which the ká’ah also

resembles in having a handsome suffeh, and cupboards of curious

panel-work. There is, besides, in this and some other apartments, a

narrow shelf of wood, extending along two or each of the three walls

which bound the leewán, about seven feet or more from the floor, just

above the cupboards, but interrupted in some parts—at least in those

parts where the windows are placed; upon this are arranged several

vessels of china, not so much for general use as for ornament.[25] All

the apartments are lofty, generally fourteen feet or more in height; but

the ká’ah is the largest and most lofty room, and in a large house it is

a noble saloon.

[Illustration: CEILING OF A DURKÁ’AH.—About eight feet wide.]

[Illustration:

CEILING OF A PROJECTING WINDOW.

The dimensions of this are about eight feet by three.

]

In several of the upper rooms, in the houses of the wealthy, there are,

besides the windows of lattice-work, others, of coloured glass,

representing bunches of flowers, peacocks, and other gay and gaudy

objects, or merely fanciful patterns, which have a pleasing effect.

These coloured glass windows, which are termed “kamareeyehs,”[26] are

mostly from a foot and a half to two feet and a half in height, and from

one to two feet in width; and are generally placed along the upper part

of the projecting lattice-window, in a row; or above that kind of

window, disposed in a group, so as to form a large square; or elsewhere

in the upper parts of the walls, usually singly, or in pairs, side by

side. They are composed of small pieces of glass, of various colours,

set in rims of fine plaster, and enclosed in a frame of wood. On the

plastered walls of some apartments are rude paintings of the temple of

Mekkeh, or of the tomb of the Prophet, or of flowers and other objects,

executed by native Muslim artists, who have not the least notion of the

rules of perspective, and who consequently deface what they thus attempt

to decorate. Sometimes, also, the walls are ornamented with Arabic

inscriptions, of maxims, etc., which are more usually written on paper,

in an embellished style, and enclosed in glazed frames. No chambers are

furnished as bedrooms. The bed, in the daytime, is rolled up, and placed

on one side, or in an adjoining closet, called “khazneh,” which, in the

winter, is a sleeping-place: in summer, many people sleep upon the

house-top. A mat, or carpet, spread upon the raised part of the stone

floor, and a deewán, constitute the complete furniture of a room. For

meals, a round tray is brought in, and placed upon a low stool, and the

company sit round it on the ground. There is no fire-place:[27] the room

is warmed, when necessary, by burning charcoal in a chafing-dish. Many

houses have, at the top, a sloping shed of boards, called a

“malkaf,”[28] directed towards the north or north-west, to convey to a

“fes-hah,” or “fesahah” (an open apartment), below the cool breezes

which generally blow from those quarters.

[Illustration: WOODEN LOCK.]

Every door is furnished with a wooden lock, called a “dabbeh,” the

mechanism of which is shown by a sketch here inserted. No. 1 in this

sketch is a front view of the lock, with the bolt drawn back; Nos. 2, 3,

and 4, are back views of the separate parts, and the key. A number of

small iron pins (four, five, or more) drop into corresponding holes in

the sliding bolt as soon as the latter is pushed into the hole or staple

of the door-post. The key also has small pins, made to correspond with

the holes, into which they are introduced to open the lock: the former

pins being thus pushed up, the bolt may be drawn back. The wooden lock

of a street-door is commonly about fourteen inches long:[29] those of

the doors of apartments, cupboards, etc., are about seven, or eight, or

nine inches. The locks of the gates of quarters, public buildings, etc.,

are of the same kind, and mostly two feet, or even more, in length. It

is not difficult to pick this kind of lock.

In the plan of almost every house there is an utter want of regularity.

The apartments are generally of different heights—so that a person has

to ascend or descend one, two, or more steps, to pass from one chamber

to another adjoining it. The principal aim of the architect is to render

the house as private as possible; particularly that part of it which is

inhabited by the women; and not to make any window in such a situation

as to overlook the apartments of another house. Another object of the

architect, in building a house for a person of wealth or rank, is to

make a secret door (“báb sirr”[30]), from which the tenant may make his

escape in case of danger from an arrest, or an attempt at

assassination—or by which to give access and egress to a paramour; and

it is also common to make a hiding-place for treasure (called “makhba”)

in some part of the house. In the hareem of a large house there is

generally a bath, which is heated in the same manner as the public

baths.

Another style of building has lately been very generally adopted for

houses of the more wealthy. These do not differ much from those already

described, excepting in the windows, which are of glass, and placed

almost close together. Each window of the hareem has, outside, a sliding

frame of close wooden trellis-work, to cover the lower half. The

numerous glass windows are ill adapted to a hot climate.

-------------------------------------------

[Illustration: A KÄAH.]

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Page 16_

-------------------------------------------

When shops occupy the lower part of the buildings in a street (as is

generally the case in the great thoroughfares of the metropolis, and in

some of the bye-streets), the superstructure is usually divided into

distinct lodgings, and is termed “raba.” These lodgings are separate

from each other, as well as from the shops below, and let to families

who cannot afford the rent of a whole house. Each lodging in a raba

comprises one or two sitting and sleeping-rooms, and generally a kitchen

and latrina. It seldom has a separate entrance from the street, one

entrance and one staircase usually admitting to a range of several

lodgings. The apartments are similar to those of the private houses

first described. They are never let ready-furnished; and it is very

seldom that a person who has not a wife or female slave is allowed to

reside in them, or in any private house: such a person (unless he have

parents or other near relations to dwell with) is usually obliged to

take up his abode in a “wekáleh,” which is a building chiefly designed

for the reception of merchants and their goods. Franks, however, are now

exempted from this restriction.

Very few large or handsome houses are to be seen in Egypt, excepting in

the metropolis and some other towns. The dwellings of the lower orders,

particularly those of the peasants, are of a very mean description: they

are mostly built of unbaked bricks, cemented together with mud. Some of

them are mere hovels. The greater number, however, comprise two or more

apartments; though few are two storeys high. In one of these apartments,

in the houses of the peasants in Lower Egypt, there is generally an oven

(“furn”), at the end farthest from the entrance, and occupying the whole

width of the chamber. It resembles a wide bench or seat, and is about

breast-high: it is constructed of brick and mud; the roof arched within,

and flat on the top. The inhabitants of the house, who seldom have any

night-covering during the winter, sleep upon the top of the oven, having

previously lighted a fire within it; or the husband and wife only enjoy

this luxury and the children sleep upon the floor. The chambers have

small apertures high up in the walls, for the admission of light and

air—sometimes furnished with a grating of wood. The roofs are formed of

palm-branches and palm-leaves, or of millet-stalks, etc., laid upon

rafters of the trunk of the palm, and covered with a plaster of mud and

chopped straw. The furniture consists of a mat or two to sleep upon, a

few earthen vessels, and a hand-mill to grind the corn. In many villages

large pigeon-houses of a square form, but with the walls slightly

inclining inwards (like many of the ancient Egyptian buildings), or of

the form of a sugar-loaf, are constructed upon the roots of the huts,

with crude brick, pottery, and mud.[31] Most of the villages of Egypt

are situated upon eminences of rubbish, which rise a few feet above the

reach of the inundation, and are surrounded by palm-trees, or have a few

of these trees in their vicinity. The rubbish which they occupy chiefly

consists of the materials of former huts, and seems to increase in about

the same degree as the level of the alluvial plains and the bed of the

river.

In a country where neither births nor deaths are registered it is next

to impossible to ascertain, with precision, the amount of the

population. A few years ago a calculation was made, founded on the

number of houses in Egypt, and the supposition that the inhabitants of

each house in the metropolis amount to eight persons, and in the

provinces to four. This computation approximates, I believe, very nearly

to the truth; but personal observation and inquiry incline me to think

that the houses of such towns as Alexandria, Boolák, and Masr

el-’Ateekah contain each, on the average, at least five persons: Rasheed

(or Rosetta) is half deserted; but as to the crowded town of Dimyát[32]

(or Damietta), we must reckon as many as six persons to each house, or

our estimate will fall far short of what is generally believed to be the

number of its inhabitants. The addition of one or two persons to each

house in the above-mentioned towns will, however, make little difference

in the computation of the whole population of Egypt, which was found, by

this mode of reckoning, to amount to rather more than 2,500,000; but it

is now much reduced. Of 2,500,000 souls, say 1,200,000 are males; and

one-third of this number (400,000) men fit for military service: from

this latter number the present Básha of Egypt has taken, at the least,

200,000 (that is, one-half of the most serviceable portion of the male

population) to form and recruit his armies of regular troops, and for

the service of his navy. The further loss caused by withdrawing so many

men from their wives, or preventing their marrying, during ten years,

must surely far exceed 300,000; consequently, the present population may

be calculated as less than two millions. The numbers of the several

classes of which the population is mainly composed are nearly as

follows:—

Muslim Egyptians (felláheen, or peasants, and 1,750,000

townspeople)

Christian Egyptians (Copts) 150,000

’Osmánlees, or Turks 10,000

Syrians 5,000

Greeks 5,000

Armenians 2,000

Jews 5,000

Of the remainder (namely, Arabians, Western Arabs, Nubians, Negro

slaves, Memlooks [or white male slaves], female white slaves, Franks,

etc.), amounting to about 70,000, the respective numbers are very

uncertain and variable. The Arabs of the neighbouring deserts ought not

to be included among the population of Egypt.[33]

Cairo, I have said, contains about 240,000 inhabitants.[34] We should be

greatly deceived if we judged of the population of this city from the

crowds that we meet in the principal thoroughfare-streets and markets;

in most of the bye-streets and quarters very few passengers are seen.

Nor should we judge from the extent of the city and suburbs; for there

are within the walls many vacant places, some of which, during the

season of the inundation, are lakes (as the Birket el-Ezbekeeyeh, Birket

el-Feel, etc.). The gardens, several burial-grounds, the courts of

houses, and the mosques, also occupy a considerable space. Of the

inhabitants of the metropolis, about 190,000 are Egyptian Muslims; about

10,000, Copts; 3,000 or 4,000, Jews; and the rest, strangers from

various countries.[35]

The population of Egypt in the times of the Pharaohs was probably about

six or seven millions.[36] The produce of the soil in the present age

would suffice, if none were exported, for the maintenance of a

population amounting to 4,000,000; and if all the soil which is capable

of cultivation were sown, the produce would be sufficient for the

maintenance of 8,000,000. But this would be the utmost number that Egypt

could maintain in years of plentiful inundation; I therefore compute the

ancient population, at the time when agriculture was in a very

flourishing state, to have amounted to what I first stated; and must

suppose it to have been scarcely more than half as numerous in the times

of the Ptolemies, and at later periods, when a great quantity of corn

was annually exported.[37] This calculation agrees with what Diodorus

Siculus says (in lib. i. cap. 31); namely, that Egypt contained, in the

times of the ancient kings, 7,000,000 inhabitants, and in his own time

not less than 3,000,000.

How different now is the state of Egypt from what it might be,

possessing a population of scarcely more than one quarter of the number

that it might be rendered capable of supporting! How great a change

might be effected in it by a truly enlightened government, by a prince

who (instead of impoverishing the peasantry by depriving them of their

lands, and by his monopolies of the most valuable productions of the

soil; by employing the best portion of the population to prosecute his

ambitious schemes of foreign conquest, and another large portion in the

vain attempt to rival European manufactures) would give his people a

greater interest in the cultivation of the fields, and make Egypt what

nature designed it to be—almost exclusively an agricultural country! Its

produce of cotton alone would more than suffice to procure all the

articles of foreign manufacture, and all the natural productions of

foreign countries, that the wants of its inhabitants demand.[38]

The desired change may now be easily effected, for since the above was

written the Básha has been placed in a new position, which will enable

him to acquire a greater and more honourable fame, by the cultivation of

the arts of peace, than his conquests, brilliant as they have been, have

hitherto procured for him. No one who is acquainted with the modern

history of Egypt, and more particularly with the state of the country

during the period that intervened between the French expedition and the

accession of Mohammad ’Alee to the office of viceroy, can doubt that he

possesses extraordinary talents for government; and let us hope that

those talents will be rightly employed: but, as he himself affirms, some

time will be required for effecting the necessary changes.

-----

Footnote 1:

It gives me great pleasure to find, that, while I have been attempting

to preserve memorials of the manners and customs of the most polished

modern Arab people, one of my learned friends (M. Fulgence Fresnel)

has been occupied, with eminent success, in rescuing from oblivion

many interesting notices of the history of the _early_ Arabs, and that

another (Mr. [now, Sir Gardner] Wilkinson) has been preparing to

impart to us an account of the private life, manners, etc., of the

Ancient Egyptians. [The very high and just commendation which the

works of these two authors (published since the above was written)

have obtained from eminent critics renders it needless for me to add

my humble testimony to their merits.]

Footnote 2:

Among the memoirs in “the great French work” on Egypt, is one entitled

“Essai sur les mœurs des habitans modernes de l’Egypte;” but its

author appears to me to have fallen into an error of considerable

magnitude, in applying to the Egyptians in general, observations which

were, in truth, for the most part descriptive of the manners and

customs of their naturalized rulers, the Memlooks. It is probable that

the Egyptians in some degree imitated, when they were able to do so,

the habits and customs of this class: I may however, venture to

affirm, that the essay here alluded to does not convey a true notion

of their _present_ moral and social state. Its author, moreover, shows

himself to have been often extremely careless both in his observations

and inquiries: this is particularly evident in his singular

misstatement of the correspondence of French and Mohammadan hours, and

in the first two pages (in the 8vo. edition) of the section on public

fêtes. He has given many just philosophical observations; but these

occupy too large a proportion of a memoir scarcely exceeding one-third

of the extent of the present work. To show that these remarks are not

made in an invidious spirit, I most willingly express my high

admiration of other parts of “the great work” (especially the

contributions of M. Jomard), relating to subjects which have alike

employed my mind and pen, and upon which I shall probably publish my

observations.—Burckhardt’s “Arabic Proverbs,” and their illustrations,

convey many notions of remarkable customs and traits of character of

the modern Egyptians; but are very far from composing a complete

exposition, or in every case, a true one; for national proverbs are

bad tests of the morality of a people.—There is one work, however,

which presents most admirable pictures of the manners and customs of

the Arabs, and particularly of those of the Egyptians: it is “The

Thousand and One Nights,” or Arabian Nights’ Entertainments: if the

English reader had possessed a close translation of it with sufficient

illustrative notes, I might almost have spared myself the labour of

the present undertaking.—[This remark, respecting “The Thousand and

One Nights,” was, I believe, the cause of my being employed, since the

publication of the first edition of the present work, to translate

those admirable tales, and to illustrate them by explanatory notes.]

Footnote 3:

Thus commonly pronounced, for Esh-Shaaránee.

Footnote 4:

He professes to have had more than thirty wives in the course of his

life; but, in saying so, I believe he greatly exaggerates.

Footnote 5:

It is a common belief among the Egyptians, that every European

traveller who visits their country is an emissary from his King; and

it is difficult to convince them that this is not the case: so strange

to them is the idea of a man’s incurring great trouble and expense for

the purpose of acquiring the knowledge of foreign countries and

nations.

Footnote 6:

Kur-án, chap, iv., ver. 96.

Footnote 7:

Kur-án, chap. lvi., ver 78.

Footnote 8:

David Urquhart, Esq., author of “The Spirit of the East,” etc.

Footnote 9:

Here I must mention, that I have written “Básha” instead of “Pásha” in

conformity with the pronunciation of the Egyptians.

Footnote 10:

Strictly speaking, it has a sound between that of “a” in “bad” and

that of “u” in “bud;” sometimes approximating more to the former, and

sometimes to the latter.

Footnote 11:

Its sound, however, often approximates to that of “a” in “ball.”

Footnote 12:

Respecting this term, see the first of the notes in Chapter xxvi.

Footnote 13:

This is the temperature in the shade. At Thebes, I have observed the

thermometer to rise above 110° during a khamáseen wind, in the shade.

Footnote 14:

This remark was written before the terrible plague of the present year

[1835], which was certainly introduced from Turkey, and extended

throughout the whole of Egypt, though its ravages were not great in

the southern parts. It has destroyed not less than eighty thousand

persons in Cairo: that is, one-third of the population; and far more,

I believe, than two hundred thousand in all Egypt. According to a

report made by the government, the victims of this plague in Cairo

were about _forty_ thousand; but I have been informed, on high

authority, that the government made it a rule to report only half the

number of deaths in this case.

Footnote 15:

This is the name by which the modern Egyptians call their country, as

well as its metropolis.

Footnote 16:

With red ochre and lime wash.

Footnote 17:

No. 1 is a view and section of a portion of the most simple kind. This

and the other four kinds are here represented on a scale of about

one-seventh of the real size. No. 6 shows the general proportions of

the side of a projecting window. The portion A is, in most instances,

of lattice-work similar to No. 1, and comprises about twelve rows of

beads in the width: the portion B is commonly either of the same kind,

or like No. 2 or No. 3; and the small lattice C, which is attached by

hinges, is generally similar to No. 4.

Footnote 18:

Commonly similar to No. 1, or No. 5.

Footnote 19:

Some large houses have two courts: the inner for the hareem; and in

the latter, or both of these, there is usually a little enclosure of

arched wood-work in which trees and flowers are raised.

Footnote 20:

In the accompanying view of the court of a house, the door of the

hareem is that which faces the spectator.

Footnote 21:

Apparently a corruption of the Persian “dargáh.”—The view of a ká’ah

opposite p. 14 will serve to illustrate the description of the

mandar’ah.

Footnote 22:

The “leewán” is not to be confounded with the “deewán,” which is

afterwards mentioned.

Footnote 23:

One of the chief reasons of the custom here mentioned is, to avoid

defiling a mat or carpet upon which prayer is usually made. This, as

many authors have observed, illustrates passages of the

Scriptures—Exodus iii. 5, and Joshua v. 15.

Footnote 24:

See Jeremiah xxii. 14.

Footnote 25:

In the larger houses, and some others, there is also, adjoining the

principal saloon, an elevated closet, designed as an orchestra, for

female singers. A description of this will be found in the chapter on

music.

Footnote 26:

This word is said to be derived from “kamar” (the moon). Baron

Hammer-Purgstall thinks (see the Vienna “Jahrbücher der Literatur,”

lxxxi. bd., pp. 71, 72) that it has its origin from Chumaruje [or, as

he is called by the Arabs in general, Khumáraweyh], the second prince

of the dynasty of the Benee-Tooloon, who governed in Egypt in the end

of the ninth century of the Christian era, and that it proves the art

of staining glass to have been in a flourishing state in Cairo at that

period.

Footnote 27:

Excepting in the kitchen, in which are several small receptacles for

fire, constructed on a kind of bench of brick. Hence, and for several

other reasons (among which may be mentioned the sober and early habits

of the people, the general absence of draperies in the apartments, and

the construction of the floors, which are of wood overlaid with

stone), the destruction of a house by fire seldom happens in Cairo;

but when such an accident does occur, an extensive conflagration is

the usual result; for a great quantity of wood, mostly deal, and of

course excessively dry, is employed in the construction of the houses.

Footnote 28:

See again the engraving opposite p. 9.

Footnote 29:

This is the measure of the sliding bolt.

Footnote 30:

This term is also applied sometimes to the door of the hareem.

Footnote 31:

The earthen pots used in the construction of these pigeon-houses are

of an oval form, with a wide mouth, which is placed outwards, and a

small hole at the other end. Each pair of pigeons occupies a separate

pot.

Footnote 32:

Vulgarly called “Dumyát.”

Footnote 33:

The Muslim Egyptians, Copts, Syrians, and Jews of Egypt, with few

exceptions, speak no language but the Arabic, which is also the

language generally used by the foreigners settled in this country. The

Nubians, among themselves, speak their own dialects.

Footnote 34:

The population of Cairo has increased to this amount, from about

200,000, within the last three or four years. Since the computation

here stated was made, the plague of this year [1835] has destroyed not

fewer than one-third of its inhabitants, as before mentioned; but this

deficiency will be rapidly supplied from the villages.

Footnote 35:

About one-third of the population of the metropolis consists of adult

males. Of this number (or 80,000) about 30,000 are merchants, petty

shopkeepers, and artisans; 20,000, domestic servants; 15,000, common

labourers, porters, etc.: the remainder chiefly consists of military

and civil servants of the government.

Footnote 36:

I place but little reliance on the accounts of ancient authors on

this subject.

Footnote 37:

It has been suggested to me that, if corn was exported, something of

equal value was imported; and that the exportation of corn, or

anything else, would give a stimulus to industry and to population:

but I do not know what could be imported that would fill up the

measure of the food necessary to sustain a population much greater

than that which would consume the corn retained.

Footnote 38:

During the present year [1835] more than 100,000 bales of cotton (each

bale weighing a hundred-weight and three-quarters) have been shipped

at Alexandria. The price paid for this quantity by the merchants

exceeded £700,000. The quantity exported last year was 34,000 bales,

which is considerably less than usual.—The policy above recommended is

strongly advocated by Ibráheem Básha.

CHAPTER I.

PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS AND DRESS OF THE MUSLIM EGYPTIANS.

Muslims of Arabian origin have for many centuries mainly composed the

population of Egypt: they have changed its language, laws, and general

manners; and its metropolis they have made the principal seat of Arabian

learning and arts. To the description of this people, and especially of

the middle and higher classes in the Egyptian capital, will be devoted

the chief portion of the present work. In every point of view, Masr (or

Cairo) must be regarded as the first Arab city of our age; and the

manners and customs of its inhabitants are particularly interesting, as

they are a combination of those which prevail most generally in the

towns of Arabia, Syria, and the whole of Northern Africa, and in a great

degree in Turkey. There is no other place in which we can obtain so

complete a knowledge of the most civilized classes of the Arabs.

From statements made in the introduction to this work, it appears that

Muslim Egyptians (or Arab-Egyptians) compose nearly four-fifths of the

population of the metropolis (which is computed to amount to about

240,000), and just seven-eighths of that of all Egypt.

The Muslim Egyptians are descended from various Arab tribes and families

which have settled in Egypt at different periods; mostly soon after the

conquest of this country by ’Amr, its first Arab governor; but by

intermarriages with the Copts and others who have become proselytes to

the faith of El-Islám, as well as by the change from a life of wandering

to that of citizens or of agriculturists, their personal characteristics

have, by degrees, become so much altered, that there is a strongly

marked difference between them and the natives of Arabia. Yet they are

to be regarded as not less genuine Arabs than the townspeople of Arabia

itself, among whom has long and very generally prevailed a custom of

keeping Abyssinian female slaves, either instead of marrying their own

countrywomen, or (as is commonly the case with the opulent) in addition

to their Arab wives; so that they bear almost as strong a resemblance to

the Abyssinians as to the Bedawees, or Arabs of the Desert. The term

“Arab,”[39] it should here be remarked, is now used wherever the Arabic

language is spoken, only to designate the Bedawees collectively. In

speaking of a tribe, or of a small number of those people, the word

“’Orbán” is also used; and a single individual is called “Bedawee.”[40]

In the metropolis and other towns of Egypt, the distinction of tribes is

almost wholly lost; but it is preserved among the peasants, who have

retained many Bedawee customs, of which I shall have to speak. The

native Muslim inhabitants of Cairo commonly call themselves

“El-Masreeyeen,” “Owlád-Masr” (or “Ahl-Masr”), and “Owlád-el-Beled,”

which signify people of Masr, children of Masr, and children of the

town; the singular forms of these appellations are “Masree,” “Ibn-Masr,”

and “Ibn-el-Beled.”[41] Of these three terms, the last is most common in

the town itself. The country people are called “El-Felláheen” (or the

Agriculturists), in the singular “Felláh.”[42] The Turks often apply

this term to the Egyptians in general in an abusive sense, as meaning

“the boors,” or “the clowns;” and improperly stigmatize them with the

appellation of “Ahl-Far’oon,”[43] or “the people of Pharaoh.”

In general, the Muslim Egyptians attain the height of about five feet

eight, or five feet nine inches. Most of the children under nine or ten

years of age have spare limbs and a distended abdomen; but, as they grow

up, their forms rapidly improve. In mature age most of them are

remarkably well proportioned. The men, muscular and robust; the women,

very beautifully formed, and plump; and neither sex is too fat. I have

never seen corpulent persons among them, excepting a few in the

metropolis and other towns, rendered so by a life of inactivity. In

Cairo, and throughout the northern provinces, those who have not been

much exposed to the sun, have a yellowish, but very clear complexion,

and soft skin; the rest are of a considerably darker and coarser

complexion. The people of Middle Egypt are of a more tawny colour, and

those of the more southern provinces are of a deep bronze or brown

complexion—darkest towards Nubia, where the climate is hottest. In

general, the countenance of the Muslim Egyptian (I here speak of the

_men_) is of a fine oval form; the forehead, of moderate size, seldom

high, but generally prominent; the eyes are deep-sunk, black, and

brilliant; the nose is straight, but rather thick; the mouth well

formed; the lips are rather full than otherwise; the teeth particularly

beautiful;[44] the beard is commonly black and curly, but scanty. I have

seen very few individuals of this race with grey eyes, or rather, few

persons supposed to be of this race; for I am inclined to think them the

offspring of Arab women by Turks or other foreigners. The Felláheen,

from constant exposure to the sun, have a habit of half shutting their

eyes; this is also characteristic of the Bedawees. Great numbers of the

Egyptians are blind in one or both eyes. They generally shave that part

of the cheek which is above the lower jaw, and likewise a small space

under the lower lip, leaving, however, the hairs which grow in the

middle under the mouth; or, instead of shaving these parts, they pluck

out the hair. They also shave a part of the beard under the chin. Very

few shave the rest of their beards,[45] and none their moustaches. The

former they suffer to grow to the length of about a hand’s breadth below

the chin (such, at least, is the general rule, and such was the custom

of the Prophet); and their moustaches they do not allow to become so

long as to incommode them in eating and drinking. The practice of dyeing

the beard is not common, for a grey beard is much respected. The

Egyptians shave all the rest of the hair, or leave only a small tuft

(called “shoosheh”) upon the crown of the head.[46] This last custom

(which is almost universal among them), I have been told, originated in

the fear that if the Muslim should fall into the hands of an infidel and

be slain, the latter might cut off the head of his victim, and finding

no hair by which to hold it, put his impure hand into the mouth in order

to carry it; for the beard might not be sufficiently long.[47] With the

like view of avoiding impurity, the Egyptians observe other customs

which need not here be described.[48] Many men of the lower orders, and

some others, make blue marks upon their arms, and sometimes upon the

hands and chest, as the women, in speaking of whom this operation will

be described.

-------------------------------------------

[Illustration: MEN OF THE MIDDLE AND HIGHER CLASSES.]

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Page 25_

-------------------------------------------

The dress of the men of the middle and higher classes consists of the

following articles.[49] First, a pair of full drawers[50] of linen or

cotton, tied round the body by a running string or band,[51] the ends of

which are embroidered with coloured silks, though concealed by the outer

dress. The drawers descend a little below the knees, or to the ankles;

but many of the Arabs will not wear long drawers, because prohibited by

the Prophet. Next is worn a shirt, with very full sleeves, reaching to

the wrist; it is made of linen, of a loose, open texture, or of cotton

stuff, or of muslin or silk, or of a mixture of silk and cotton, in

stripes, but all white.[52] Over this, in winter, or in cool weather,

most persons wear a “sudeyree,” which is a short vest of cloth, or of

striped coloured silk and cotton, without sleeves. Over the shirt and

sudeyree, or the former alone, is worn a long vest of striped silk and

cotton[53] (called “kaftán,” or more commonly “kuftán”), descending to

the ankles, with long sleeves extending a few inches beyond the fingers’

ends, but divided from a point a little above the wrist, or about the

middle of the fore-arm; so that the hand is generally exposed, though it

may be concealed by the sleeve when necessary, for it is customary to

cover the hands in the presence of a person of high rank. Round this

vest is wound the girdle, which is a coloured shawl, or a long piece of

white figured muslin. The ordinary outer robe is a long cloth coat, of

any colour (called by the Turks “jubbeh,” but by the Egyptians

“gibbeh”), the sleeves of which reach not quite to the wrist.[54] Some

persons also wear a “beneesh,” or “benish,” which is a robe of cloth,

with long sleeves, like those of the kuftán, but more ample;[55] it is

properly a robe of ceremony, and should be worn over the other cloth

coat; but many persons wear it _instead_ of the gibbeh. Another robe,

called “farageeyeh,” nearly resembles the beneesh. It has very long

sleeves, but these are not slit, and it is chiefly worn by men of the

learned professions. In cold or cool weather, a kind of black woollen

cloak, called “’abáyeh,” is commonly worn. Sometimes this is drawn over

the head. In winter also many persons wrap a muslin or other shawl (such

as they use for a turban) about the head and shoulders. The head-dress

consists, first, of a small, close-fitting, cotton cap,[56] which is

often changed; next, a “tarboosh,” which is a red cloth cap, also

fitting closely to the head, with a tassel of dark blue silk at the

crown; lastly, a long piece of white muslin, generally figured, or a

Kashmeer shawl, which is wound round the tarboosh. Thus is formed the

turban. The Kashmeer shawl is seldom worn excepting in cool weather.

Some persons wear two or three tarbooshes, one over another. A “shereef”

(or descendant of the Prophet) wears a green turban, or is privileged to

do so; but no other person; and it is not common for any but a shereef

to wear a bright green dress. Stockings are not in use; but some few

persons, in cold weather, wear woollen or cotton socks. The shoes are of

thick red morocco, pointed and turning up at the toes. Some persons also

wear inner shoes of soft yellow morocco, and with soles of the same. The

outer shoes are taken off on stepping upon a carpet or mat; but not the

inner, for this reason—the former are often worn turned down at the

heel.

On the little finger of the right hand is worn a seal-ring,[57] which is

generally of silver, with a carnelion, or other stone, upon which is

engraved the wearer’s name: the name is usually accompanied by the words

“his servant” (signifying “the servant, or worshipper, of God”), and

often by other words expressive of the person’s trust in God, etc.[58]

The prophet disapproved of gold; therefore few Muslims wear gold rings;

but the women have various ornaments (rings, bracelets, etc.) of that

precious metal. The seal-ring is used for signing letters and other

writings, and its impression is considered more valid than the

sign-manual.[59] A little ink is dabbed upon it with one of the fingers,

and it is pressed upon the paper, the person who uses it having first

touched his tongue with another finger and moistened the place in the

paper which is to be stamped. Almost every person who can afford it has

a seal-ring, even though he be a servant. The regular scribes, literary

men, and many others, wear a silver, brass, or copper “dawáyeh,” which

is a case with receptacles for ink and pens, stuck in the girdle.[60]

Some have, in the place of this, or in addition to it, a case-knife or a

dagger.

The Egyptian generally takes his pipe with him wherever he goes (unless

it be to the mosque), or has a servant to carry it, though it is not a

common custom to smoke while riding or walking. The tobacco-purse he

crams into his bosom, the kuftán being large, and lapping over in front.

A handkerchief, embroidered with coloured silks and gold, and neatly

folded, is also placed in the bosom. Many persons of the middle orders,

who wish to avoid being thought rich, conceal such a dress as I have

described by a long black gown of cotton, similar to the gown worn by

most persons of the lower classes.

The costume of the men of the lower orders is very simple. These, if not

of the very poorest class, wear a pair of drawers, and a long and full

shirt or gown of blue linen or cotton, or of brown woollen stuff (the

former called “’eree,” and the latter “zaaboot”), open from the neck

nearly to the waist, and having wide sleeves.[61] Over this some wear a

white or red woollen girdle. Their turban is generally composed of a

white, red, or yellow woollen shawl, or of a piece of coarse cotton or

muslin wound round a tarboosh, under which is a white or brown felt cap;

but many are so poor as to have no other cap than the latter—no turban,

nor even drawers nor shoes, but only the blue or brown shirt, or merely

a few rags; while many, on the other hand, wear a sudeyree under the

blue shirt; and some, particularly servants in the houses of great men,

wear a white shirt, a sudeyree, and a kuftán or gibbeh, or both, and the

blue shirt over all. The full sleeves of this shirt are sometimes drawn

up by means of cords, which pass round each shoulder and cross behind,

where they are tied in a knot. This custom is adopted by servants

(particularly grooms) who have cords of crimson or dark-blue silk for

this purpose. In cold weather many persons of the lower classes wear an

’abáyeh, like that before described, but coarser, and sometimes (instead

of being black) having broad stripes, brown and white, or blue and

white, but the latter rarely. Another kind of cloak, more full than the

’abáyeh, of black or deep-blue woollen stuff, is also very commonly

worn; it is called “diffeeyeh.”[62] The shoes are of red or yellow

morocco, or of sheep-skin.

[Illustration: FELLAHEEN.]

Several different forms of turbans are represented in some of the

engravings which illustrate this work. The Muslims are distinguished by

the colours of their turbans from the Copts and the Jews, who (as well

as other subjects of the Turkish Sultán who are not Muslims) wear black,

blue, grey, or light-brown turbans, and generally dull-coloured dresses.

The distinction of sects, families, dynasties, etc., among the Muslim

Arabs, by the colour of the turban and other articles of dress, is of

very early origin. When the Imám Ibráheem Ibn-Mohammad, asserting his

pretensions to the dignity of Khaleefeh,[63] was put to death by the

Umawee Khaleefeh Marwán, many persons of the family of El-’Abbás assumed

black clothing in testimony of their sorrow for his fate; and hence the

black dress and turban (which latter is now characteristic, almost

solely, of Christian and Jewish tributaries to the Osmánlee, or Turkish,

Sultán) became the distinguishing costume of the Abbásee Khaleefehs, and

of their officers. When an officer under this dynasty was disgraced, he

was made to wear a white dress. White was adopted by the false prophet

El-Mukanna’, to distinguish his party from the ’Abbásees; and the

Fawátim of Egypt (or Khaleefehs of the race of Fátimeh), as rivals of

the ’Abbásees, wore a white costume. El-Melik El-Ashraf Shaabán, a

Sultán of Egypt (who reigned from the year of the Flight 764 to 778, or

A.D. 1362 to 1376), was the first who ordered the “shereefs” to

distinguish themselves by the green turban and dress. Some darweeshes of

the sect of the Rifá’ees, and a few, but very few, other Muslims, wear a

turban of black woollen stuff, or of a very deep olive-coloured (almost

black) muslin; but that of the Copts, Jews, etc., is generally of black

or blue muslin, or linen. There are not many different _forms_ of

turbans now worn in Egypt: that worn by most of the servants is very

formal. The kind common among the middle and higher classes of the

tradesmen and other citizens of the metropolis and large towns is also

very formal, but less so than that just before alluded to. The Turkish

turban worn in Egypt is of a more elegant mode. The Syrian is

distinguished by its width. The ’Ulama, and men of religion and letters

in general, used to wear, as some do still, one particularly wide and

formal, called a “mukleh.” The turban is much respected. In the houses

of the more wealthy classes, there is usually a chair on which it is

placed at night. This is often sent with the furniture of a bride, as it

is common for a lady to have one upon which to place her head-dress.

This kind of chair is never used for any other purpose. As an instance

of the respect paid to the turban, one of my friends mentioned to me

that an ’álim[64] being thrown off his donkey in a street of this city,

his mukleh fell off, and rolled along several yards, whereupon the

passengers ran after it, crying, “Lift up the crown of El-Islám!” while

the poor ’álim, whom no one came to assist, called out in anger, “Lift

up the _sheykh_[65] of El-Islám!”

[Illustration: AN EYE ORNAMENTED WITH KOHL.]

[Illustration:

MUK-HUL’AHS AND MIRWEDS.

These are represented on scales of one-third, and a quarter, of the

real size.

]

The general form and features of the _women_ must now be described. From

the age of about fourteen to that of eighteen or twenty, they are

generally models of beauty in body and limbs; and in countenance most of

them are pleasing, and many exceedingly lovely: but soon after they have

attained their perfect growth, they rapidly decline; the bosom early

loses all its beauty, acquiring, from the relaxing nature of the

climate, an excessive length and flatness in its forms, even while the

face retains its full charms; and though, in most other respects, time

does not commonly so soon nor so much deform them, at the age of forty

it renders many, who in earlier years possessed considerable

attractions, absolutely ugly. In the Egyptian females, the forms of

womanhood begin to develop themselves about the ninth or tenth year: at

the age of fifteen or sixteen they generally attain their highest degree

of perfection. With regard to their complexions, the same remarks apply

to them as to the men, with only this difference, that their faces,

being generally veiled when they go abroad, are not quite so much tanned

as those of the men. They are characterized, like the men, by a fine

oval countenance; though, in some instances, it is rather broad. The

eyes, with very few exceptions, are black, large, and of a long

almond-form, with long and beautiful lashes and an exquisitely soft,

bewitching expression: eyes more beautiful can hardly be conceived:

their charming effect is much heightened by the concealment of the other

features (however pleasing the latter may be), and is rendered still

more striking by a practice universal among the females of the higher

and middle classes, and very common among those of the lower orders,

which is that of blackening the edge of the eyelids, both above and

below the eye, with a black powder called “kohl.” This is a collyrium

commonly composed of the smoke-black which is produced by burning a kind

of “liban”—an aromatic resin—a species of frankincense, used, I am told,

in preference to the better kind of frankincense, as being cheaper, and

equally good for this purpose. Kohl is also prepared of the smoke-black

produced by burning the shells of almonds. These two kinds, though

believed to be beneficial to the eyes, are used merely for ornament; but

there are several kinds used for their real or supposed medical

properties; particularly the powder of several kinds of lead ore, to

which are often added sarcocolla, long pepper, sugar-candy, fine dust of

a Venetian sequin, and sometimes powdered pearls. Antimony, it is said,

was formerly used for painting the edges of the eyelids. The kohl is

applied with a small probe, of wood, ivory, or silver, tapering towards

the end, but blunt. This is moistened, sometimes with rose water, then

dipped in the powder, and drawn along the edges of the eyelids: it is

called “mirwed;” and the glass vessel in which the kohl is kept

“muk-hul’ah.” The custom of thus ornamenting the eyes prevailed among

both sexes in Egypt in very ancient times: this is shown by the

sculptures and paintings in the temples and tombs of this country; and

kohl vessels, with the probes, and even with remains of the black

powder, have often been found in the ancient tombs. I have two in my

possession. But in many cases the ancient mode of ornamenting with the

kohl was a little different from the modern, as shown by the subjoined

sketch: I have, however, seen this ancient mode practised in the present

day in the neighbourhood of Cairo, though I only remember to have

noticed it in two instances. The same custom existed among the ancient

Greek ladies, and among the Jewish women in early times.[66] The eyes of

the Egyptian women are generally the most beautiful of their features.

Countenances altogether handsome are far less common among this race

than handsome figures; but I have seen among them faces distinguished by

a style of beauty possessing such sweetness of expression, that they

have struck me as exhibiting the perfection of female loveliness, and

impressed me with the idea (perhaps not false) that their equals could

not be found in any other country. With such eyes as many of them have,

the face must be handsome, if its other features be but moderately well

formed.[67] The nose is generally straight; the lips are mostly rather

fuller than those of the men, but not in the least degree partaking of

the negro character. The hair is of that deep, glossy black, which best

suits all but fair complexions: in some instances it is rather coarse

and crisp, but never woolly.

[Illustration: ANCIENT VESSEL AND PROBE FOR KOHL.]

[Illustration: AN EYE AND EYEBROW ORNAMENTED WITH KOHL, AS REPRESENTED

IN ANCIENT PAINTINGS.]

[Illustration: HANDS AND FEET STAINED WITH HENNA.]

The females of the higher and middle classes, and many of the poorer

women, stain certain parts of their hands and feet (which are, with very

few exceptions, beautifully formed) with the leaves of the henna

tree,[68] which impart a yellowish red, or deep orange colour. Many thus

dye only the nails of the fingers and toes; others extend the dye as

high as the first joint of each finger and toe; some also make a stripe

along the next row of joints; and there are several other fanciful modes

of applying the henna; but the most common practice is to dye the tips

of the fingers and toes as high as the first joint, and the whole of the

inside of the hand and the sole of the foot;[69] adding, though not

always, the stripe above mentioned along the middle joints of the

fingers, and a similar stripe a little above the toes. The henna is

prepared for this use merely by being powdered and mixed with a little

water, so as to form a paste. Some of this paste being spread in the

palm of the hand, and on other parts of it which are to be dyed, and the

fingers being doubled, and their extremities inserted into the paste in

the palm, the whole hand is tightly bound with linen, and remains thus

during a whole night. In a similar manner it is applied to the feet. The

colour does not disappear until after many days: it is generally renewed

after about a fortnight or three weeks. This custom prevails not only in

Egypt, but in several other countries of the East, which are supplied

with henna from the banks of the Nile. To the nails the henna imparts a

more bright, clear, and permanent colour than to the skin. When this dye

alone is applied to the nails, or to a larger portion of the fingers and

toes, it may, with some reason, be regarded as an embellishment, for it

makes the general complexion of the hand and foot appear more delicate;

but many ladies stain their hands in a manner much less agreeable to our

taste: by applying, immediately after the removal of the paste of henna,

another paste, composed of quick-lime, common smoke-black, and

linseed-oil, they convert the tint of the henna to a black, or to a

blackish olive hue. Ladies in Egypt are often seen with their nails

stained with this colour, or with their fingers of the same dark hue

from the extremity to the first joint, red from the first to the second

joint, and of the former colour from the second to the third joint, with

the palm also stained in a similar manner, having a broad, dark stripe

across the middle, and the rest left red; the thumb dark from the

extremity to the first joint, and red from the first to the second

joint. Some, after a more simple fashion, blacken the ends of the

fingers and the whole of the inside of the hand.

-------------------------------------------

[Illustration: A LADY IN THE DRESS WORN IN PRIVATE.]

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Page 33_

-------------------------------------------

Among the females of the lower orders, in the country-towns and villages

of Egypt, and among the same classes in the metropolis, but in a less

degree, prevails a custom somewhat similar to that above described: it

consists in making indelible marks of a blue or greenish hue upon the

face and other parts, or, at least, upon the front of the chin, and upon

the back of the right hand, and often also upon the left hand, the right

arm, or both arms, the feet, the middle of the bosom, and the forehead:

the most common of these marks made upon the chin and hands are here

represented. The operation is performed with several needles (generally

seven) tied together: with these the skin is pricked in the desired

pattern: some smoke-black (of wood or oil), mixed with milk from the

breast of a woman, is then rubbed in; and about a week after, before the

skin has healed, a paste of the pounded fresh leaves of white beet or

clover is applied, and gives a blue or greenish colour to the marks: or,

to produce the same effect in a more simple manner, some indigo is

rubbed into the punctures, instead of the smoke-black, etc. It is

generally performed at the age of about five or six years, and by

gipsy-women. The term applied to it is “dakk.” Most of the females of

the higher parts of Upper Egypt, who are of a very dark complexion,

tattoo their lips instead of the parts above-mentioned; thus converting

their natural colour to a dull, bluish hue, which, to the eye of a

stranger, is extremely displeasing.[70]

[Illustration: A TATTOOED GIRL.]

[Illustration: SPECIMENS OF TATTOOING ON THE CHIN.]

[Illustration: TATTOOED HANDS AND FOOT.]

Another characteristic of the Egyptian women that should be here

mentioned is their upright carriage and gait. This is most remarkable in

the female peasantry, owing, doubtless, in a great measure, to their

habit of bearing a heavy earthen water-vessel, and other burthens, upon

the head.

[Illustration:

A LADY ADORNED WITH THE KURS AND SAFA, ETC.

(The Hand is partially stained with Henna.)

]

The dress of the women of the middle and higher orders is handsome and

elegant. Their shirt is very full, like that of the men—but rather

shorter—reaching not quite to the knees: it is also, generally, of the

same kind of material as the men’s shirt, or of coloured crape—sometimes

black. A pair of very wide trousers (called “shintiyán”), of a coloured

striped stuff of silk and cotton, or of printed, or worked, or plain

white muslin, is tied round the hips, under the shirt, with a dikkeh:

its lower extremities are drawn up and tied just below the knee with

running strings; but it is sufficiently long to hang down to the feet,

or almost to the ground, when attached in this manner. Over the shirt

and shintiyán is worn a long vest (called “yelek”), of the same material

as the latter: it nearly resembles the kuftán of the men; but is more

tight to the body and arms: the sleeves also are longer; and it is made

to button down the front, from the bosom to a little below the girdle,

instead of lapping over: it is open, likewise, on each side, from the

height of the hip, downwards. In general the yelek is cut in such a

manner as to leave half of the bosom uncovered, except by the shirt; but

many ladies have it made more ample at that part: and, according to the

most approved fashion, it should be of a sufficient length to reach to

the ground, or should exceed that length by two of three inches, or

more. A short vest (called “anter′ee”), reaching only a little below the

waist, and exactly resembling a yelek of which the lower part has been

cut off, is sometimes worn instead of the latter. A square shawl, or an

embroidered kerchief, doubled diagonally, is put loosely round the waist

as a girdle; the two corners that are folded together hanging down

behind. Over the yelek is worn a gibbeh of cloth, or velvet, or silk,

usually embroidered with gold or with coloured silk: it differs in form

from the gibbeh of the men chiefly in being not so wide; particularly in

the fore part; and is of the same length as the yelek. Instead of this,

a jacket (called “saltah”), generally of cloth or velvet, and

embroidered in the same manner as the gibbeh, is often worn. The

head-dress consists of a tákeeyeh and tarboosh, with a square kerchief

(called “faroodeeyeh”) of printed or painted muslin, or one of crape,

wound tightly round, composing what is called a “rabtah.” Two or more

such kerchiefs were commonly used, a short time since, and are still

sometimes, to form the ladies’ turban, but always wound in a high, flat

shape, very different from that of the turban of the men. A kind of

crown, called “kurs,” and other ornaments, are attached to the ladies’

head-dress: descriptions and engravings of these and other ornaments of

the women of Egypt will be found in the Appendix to this work. A long

piece of white muslin embroidered at each end with coloured silks and

gold, or of coloured crape ornamented with gold thread, etc., and

spangles, rests upon the head, and hangs down behind, nearly or quite to

the ground: this is called “tarhah”—it is the head-veil: the face-veil I

shall presently describe. The hair, excepting over the forehead and

temples, is divided into numerous braids or plaits, generally from

eleven to twenty-five in number, but always of an _uneven_ number: these

hang down the back. To each braid of hair are usually added three black

silk cords, with little ornaments of gold, etc., attached to them. For a

description of these, which are called “safa,” I refer to the Appendix.

Over the forehead the hair is cut rather short; but two full locks hang

down on each side of the face: these are often curled in ringlets, and

sometimes plaited.[71] Few of the ladies of Egypt wear stockings or

socks, but many of them wear “mezz” (or inner shoes), of yellow or red

morocco, sometimes embroidered with gold: over these, whenever they step

off the matted or carpeted part of the floor, they put on “báboog” (or

slippers) of yellow morocco, with high, pointed toes; or use high wooden

clogs or pattens, generally from four to nine inches in height, and

usually ornamented with mother-of-pearl, or silver, etc. These are

always used in the bath by men and women; but not by many ladies at

home: some ladies wear them merely to keep their skirts from trailing on

the ground: others, to make themselves appear tall.—Such is the dress

which is worn by the Egyptian ladies in the house.

[Illustration: LADY ATTIRED FOR RIDING OR WALKING.]

The riding or walking attire is called “tezyeereh.” Whenever a lady

leaves the house, she wears, in addition to what has been above

described, first a large, loose gown (called “tób,” or “sebleh”), the

sleeves of which are nearly equal in width to the whole length of the

gown:[72] it is of silk; generally of a pink, or rose, or violet colour.

Next is put on the “burko’,” or face-veil, which is a long strip of

white muslin, concealing the whole of the face except the eyes, and

reaching nearly to the feet. It is suspended at the top by a narrow

band, which passes up the forehead, and which is sewed, as are also the

two upper corners of the veil, to a band that is tied round the head.

The lady then covers herself with a “habarah,” which, for a married

lady, is composed of two breadths of glossy, black silk, each ell-wide,

and three yards long: these are sewed together, at or near the selvages

(according to the height of the person); the seam running horizontally,

with respect to the manner in which it is worn: a piece of narrow black

riband is sewed inside the upper part, about six inches from the edge,

to tie round the head. This covering is always worn in the manner shown

by the accompanying sketch. The unmarried ladies wear a habarah of white

silk, or a shawl. Some females of the middle classes, who cannot afford

to purchase a habarah, wear instead of it an “eezár”; which is a piece

of white calico, of the same form and size as the former, and is worn in

the same manner. On the feet are worn short boots or socks (called

“khuff”), of yellow morocco, and over these the “báboog.”

This dress, though chiefly designed for females of the higher classes,

who are seldom seen in public on foot, is worn by many women who cannot

often afford so far to imitate their superiors as to hire an ass to

carry them. It is extremely inconvenient as a walking attire. Viewing it

as a disguise for whatever is attractive or graceful in the person and

adornments of the wearer, we should not find fault with it for being

itself deficient in grace: we must remark, however, that, in one

respect, it fails in accomplishing its main purpose; displaying the

eyes, which are almost always beautiful; making them to appear still

more so by concealing the other features, which are seldom of equal

beauty; and often causing the stranger to imagine a defective face

perfectly charming. The veil is of very remote antiquity;[73] but, from

the sculptures and paintings of the ancient Egyptians, it seems not to

have been worn by the females of that nation.

[Illustration: FELLAH WOMEN.]

The dress of a large proportion of those women of the lower orders who

are not of the poorest class consists of a pair of trousers or drawers

(similar in form to the shintiyán of the ladies, but generally of plain

white cotton or linen), a blue linen or cotton shirt (not quite so full

as that of the men), a burko’ of a kind of coarse black crape,[74] and a

dark blue tarhah of muslin or linen. Some wear over the shirt, or

instead of the latter, a linen tób, of the same form as that of the

ladies. The sleeves of this are often turned up over the head; either to

prevent their being incommodious, or to supply the place of a tarhah. In

addition to these articles of dress, many women who are not of the very

poor classes wear, as a covering, a kind of plaid, similar in form to

the habarah, composed of two pieces of cotton, woven in small chequers

of blue and white, or cross stripes, with a mixture of red at each end.

It is called “miláyeh:”[75] in general it is worn in the same manner as

the habarah; but sometimes like the tarhah.[76] The upper part of the

black burko’ is often ornamented with false pearls, small gold coins,

and other little flat ornaments of the same metal (called “bark”);

sometimes with a coral bead, and a gold coin beneath; also with small

coins of base silver; and more commonly with a pair of chain tassels, of

brass or silver (called “’oyoon”), attached to the corners. A square

black silk kerchief (called “’asbeh”), with a border of red and yellow,

is bound round the head, doubled diagonally, and tied with a single knot

behind; or, instead of this, the tarboosh and faroodeeyeh are worn,

though by very few women of the lower classes. The best kind of shoes

worn by the females of the lower orders are of red morocco, turned up,

but round at the toes. The burko’ and shoes are most common in Cairo,

and are also worn by many of the women throughout Lower Egypt; but in

Upper Egypt, the burko’ is very seldom seen, and shoes are scarcely less

uncommon. To supply the place of the former, when necessary, a portion

of the tarhah is drawn before the face, so as to conceal nearly all the

countenance excepting one eye. Many of the women of the lower orders,

even in the metropolis, never conceal their faces. Throughout the

greater part of Egypt the most common dress of the women merely consists

of the blue shirt, or tób, and tarhah. In the southern parts of Upper

Egypt, chiefly above Akhmeem, most of the women envelop themselves in a

large piece of dark brown woollen stuff (called a “hulaleeyeh”),

wrapping it round the body, and attaching the upper parts together over

each shoulder;[77] and a piece of the same they use as a tarhah. This

dull dress, though picturesque, is almost as disguising as the blue

tinge which, as I have before mentioned, the women in these parts of

Egypt impart to their lips. Most of the women of the lower orders wear a

variety of trumpery ornaments, such as ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets,

etc., and sometimes a nose-ring. Descriptions and engravings of some of

these ornaments will be given in the Appendix.

[Illustration: ORNAMENTED BLACK VEILS.]

Only one of these (that to the right) is represented in its whole

length.] The women of Egypt deem it more incumbent upon them to cover

the upper and back part of the head than the face; and more requisite to

conceal the face than most other parts of the person. I have often seen,

in this country, women but half covered with miserable rags; and several

times, females in the prime of womanhood, and others in more advanced

age, with nothing on the body but a narrow strip of rag bound round the

hips.

-----

Footnote 39:

This term was formerly used to designate the Arabian _townspeople_ and

_villagers_, while the Arabs who dwelt in the _Desert_ were called

“Aaráb,” or “Aarábees.” The Arabs dwelling in houses now term

themselves “Owlád-el-’Arab,” or Sons of the Arabs.

Footnote 40:

Feminine, “Bedaweeyeh.”

Footnote 41:

In the feminine, “Masreeyeh,” “Bint-Masr,” and “Bint-el-Beled.”

Footnote 42:

Feminine, “Felláhah.”

Footnote 43:

Thus commonly pronounced for “Fir’own.”

Footnote 44:

Tooth-ache is, however, a very common disorder in Egypt, as it was in

ancient times. This, at least, was probably the case, as Herodotus

(lib. ii., cap. 84) mentions dentists among the classes of Egyptian

physicians. It is, of course, most prevalent among the higher orders.

Footnote 45:

A few of the servants, and some others, shave their beards. The

respect which Orientals in general pay to the beard has often been

remarked. They swear by it, and say that a man disgraces it by an evil

action. The punishment recorded in 2 Samuel, ch. x., v. 4, has

frequently been practised in modern times, but not so often as the

shaving of the whole of the beard.

Footnote 46:

The Muslims hold it to be inconsistent with the honour that is due to

everything that has appertained to the human body to leave upon the

ground the shavings or clippings of hair, the parings of nails, etc.,

which, therefore, they generally bury in the earth.

Footnote 47:

Persons of literary and religious professions generally disapprove of

the shoosheh.

Footnote 48:

They are mentioned in the “Mishcát-ul-Masábih,” vol. ii., p. 359, and

are observed by both sexes.

Footnote 49:

The fashion of their dress remains almost the same during the lapse of

centuries.

Footnote 50:

In Arabic, “libás.”

Footnote 51:

Called “dikkeh,” or “tikkeh.”

Footnote 52:

The Prophet forbade men to wear silk clothing, but allowed women to do

so. The prohibition is, however, attended to by very few modern

Muslims, excepting the Wahhábees.

Footnote 53:

The stripes are seldom plain; they are generally figured or flowered.

Footnote 54:

See the foremost figure in the accompanying engraving.

Footnote 55:

See the figure to the left in the same engraving.

Footnote 56:

Called “tákeeyeh,” or “’arakeeyeh.”

Footnote 57:

“Khátim.”—It is _allowable_ to wear it on a finger of the _left_ hand.

Footnote 58:

See St. John’s Gospel iii. 33; and Exodus xxxix. 30.

Footnote 59:

Therefore, giving the ring to another person is the utmost mark of

confidence.—See Genesis xli. 42.

Footnote 60:

This is a very ancient custom.—See Ezekiel ix. 2, 3, 11. The dawáyeh

is represented in a cut in Chapter IX.

Footnote 61:

The zaaboot is mostly worn in the winter.

Footnote 62:

A kind of blue and white plaid (called “miláyeh”) is also worn by some

men, but more commonly by women, in the account of whose dress it will

be further described: the men throw it over the shoulders, or wrap it

about the body.

Footnote 63:

Commonly written by English authors “Caliph,” or “Khalif.”

Footnote 64:

This appellation (of which “’ulama” is the plural) signifies a man of

science or learning.

Footnote 65:

“Sheykh” here signifies _master_, or _doctor_.

Footnote 66:

See 2 Kings ix. 30 (where, in our common version, we find the words,

“painted her face” for “painted her eyes”), and Ezekiel xxiii. 40.

Footnote 67:

Scissors are often used to reduce the width of the eye-brows, and to

give them a more arched form.

Footnote 68:

_Lawsonia inermis_; also called “Egyptian privet.”

Footnote 69:

The application of this dye to the palms of the hands and the soles of

the feet is said to have an agreeable effect upon the skin;

particularly to prevent its being too tender and sensitive.

Footnote 70:

The depilatory most commonly used by the Egyptian women is a kind of

resin, called libán shámee, applied in a melted state: but this, they

pretend, is not always necessary: by applying the blood of a bat to

the skin of a newly-born female infant, on the parts where they wish

no hair to grow, they assert that they accomplish this desire. A

female upon whom this application has been made is termed

“muwatwatah”; from “watwát,” a bat. Some women pluck out the hair

after merely rubbing the part with the ashes of charcoal.

Footnote 71:

Egyptian women swear by the side-lock (as men do by the beard),

generally holding it when they utter the oath, “Wa-hayát maksoosee!”

Footnote 72:

This is similar in form to the tób of women of the lower orders.

Footnote 73:

See Genesis xxiv. 65; and Isaiah iii. 23. See also I Corinthians xi.

10, and a marginal note on that verse.

Footnote 74:

Some of those who are descended from the Prophet wear a green burko’.

Footnote 75:

For “muláäh.”

Footnote 76:

There is a superior kind of miláyeh, of silk, and of various colours;

but this is now seldom worn. The two pieces which compose the miláyeh

are sewed together, like those which compose the habarah.

Footnote 77:

The classical reader will recognise, in this picturesque garment, an

article of ancient Greek and Roman female attire.

An account of the manners and customs of the modern Egyptians · 第 1 / 29 章