The Journey to the Polar Sea
by SIR JOHN FRANKLIN
INTRODUCTION BY CAPTAIN R.F. SCOTT
JOHN FRANKLIN, born in 1786. Many naval experiences, including
Trafalgar, before heading an expedition across northern Canada in 1819.
Elected F.R.S. and knighted after a second expedition.
Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen’s Land, 1836 to 1843. Last
expedition, 1845, was lost, and Franklin died in 1847 near the Arctic.
Subsequent investigations have established him as the discoverer of the
North-West Passage.
THE JOURNEY
TO THE POLAR SEA.
SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.
INTRODUCTION.
In days of hurried action I have been astonished at the depth of
interest which a re-perusal of this wonderful old narrative has held
for me. Wonderful it is in its simplicity and its revelation of the
simplicity of character and faith of the man who wrote it. It is old
only by comparison—scarcely ninety years have elapsed since the
adventures it described were enacted—yet such a period has never held a
fuller measure of change or more speedily passed current events into
the limbo of the past.
Nothing could more vividly impress this change than the narrative
itself. We are told that Mr. Beck missed his ship at Yarmouth but
succeeded in rejoining her at Stromness, having travelled “nine
successive days almost without rest.” What a vision of post-chaises,
sweating horses and heavy roads is suggested! And if the contrast with
present-day conditions in our own Islands is great, how much greater is
it in that vast Dominion through which Franklin directed his pioneer
footsteps. As he followed the lonely trails to Fort Cumberland, or
sailed along the solitary shores of Lake Winnipeg, how little could he
guess that in less than a century a hundred thousand inhabitants would
dwell by the shore of the great lake, or that its primeval regions
would one day provide largely the bread of his countrymen.
There civilisation has followed fast indeed, and ever it presses
forward on the tracks of the pioneer. But even today if we follow
Franklin we must come again to the wild—to the great Barren Lands and
to the ice-bound limit of a Continent—regions where for ninety years
season has succeeded season without change—where few have passed since
his day and Nature alone holds sway. For those who would know what IS
as well as for those who would know what _has been_, this narrative
still holds its original interest; all must appreciate that it records
the work of a great traveller and a gallant man whose fame deserves to
live.
R.F. SCOTT.
SIR JOHN FRANKLIN’S VOYAGES INTO THE POLAR SEAS:
F.W. Beechey: Voyage of Discovery toward the North Pole in H.M. Ships
_Dorothea_ and _Trent_ (with summary of earlier attempts to reach the
Pacific by the North) 1818.
Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years
1819 to 1822, by John Franklin, 1823, 1824.
Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea in the
Years 1825 to 1827, by John Franklin, 1828.
PUBLICATIONS CONCERNING THE SEARCH FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN:
Report of the Committee appointed by the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty to inquire into and report on the Recent Arctic Expeditions
in search of Sir John Franklin, 1851.
Papers relative to the Recent Arctic Expeditions in search of Sir John
Franklin and the Crews of H.M.S. _Erebus_ and _Terror_, 1854.
Further Papers relative to the Search, 1855.
R. King, The Franklin Expedition from First to Last, 1855.
R. Huish, Recent Expeditions to the Polar Regions, including all the
Voyages in search of Sir J. Franklin, 1855.
E.K. Kane, Arctic Explorations, the Second Grinnell Expedition in
search of Sir John Franklin, 1856.
MacClintock, The Voyage of the _Fox_ in the Arctic Seas. A narrative of
the discovery of the fate of Sir John Franklin, 1859, 1861, 1869, 1908.
Sir J. Leslie, Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas, with a
Narrative of the Recent Expeditions in search of Sir John Franklin,
1860.
J.A. Browne, The North-West Passage, and the Fate of Sir John Franklin,
1860.
Sir Allen M. Young, The Search for Sir John Franklin, etc., 1875.
Schwatka’s Search, Sledging in the Arctic in search of Franklin
Records, 1881.
The Search for Franklin.
American Expedition under Lieutenant Schwatka, 1878 to 1880, 1882.
J.H. Skewes, The True Secret of the Discovery of the Fate of Sir John
Franklin, 1889.
LIFE:
S. Osborn, Career, Last Voyage and Fate of Sir John Franklin (_Once a
Week_, 1859) 1860.
A Brave Man and his Belongings, by a Niece of the first Mrs. Franklin,
1874.
A.H. Beesley, Sir John Franklin; the Narrative of his Life (The New
Plutarch) 1881.
A.H. Markham (The World’s Great Explorers) 1891.
G.B. Smith, Sir John Franklin and the Romance of the North-West
Passage, 1895.
H.D. Traill, 1896.
H. Harbour, Arctic Explorers, 1904.
E.C. Buley, Into the Polar Seas; The Story of Sir J. Franklin, etc.,
1909.
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
CHAPTER 1.
Departure from England.
Transactions at Stromness.
Enter Davis Straits.
Perilous situation on the shore of Resolution Island.
Land on the coast of Labrador.
Esquimaux of Savage Islands.
York Factory.
Preparations for the Journey into the Interior.
CHAPTER 2.
Passage up Hayes, Steel and Hill Rivers.
Cross Swampy Lake.
Jack River.
Knee Lake and Magnetic Islet.
Trout River.
Holy Lake.
Weepinapannis River.
Windy Lake.
White Fall Lake and River.
Echemamis and Sea Rivers.
Play Green Lakes.
Lake Winnipeg.
River Saskatchewan.
Cross, Cedar and Pine Island Lakes.
Cumberland House.
CHAPTER 3.
Dr. Richardson’s residence at Cumberland House.
His account of the Cree Indians.
CHAPTER 4.
Leave Cumberland House.
Mode of Travelling in Winter.
Arrival at Carlton House.
Stone Indians.
Visit to a Buffalo Pound.
Goitres.
Departure from Carlton House.
Isle a la Crosse.
Arrival at Fort Chipewyan.
CHAPTER 5.
Transactions at Fort Chipewyan.
Arrival of Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood.
Preparations for our Journey to the Northward.
CHAPTER 6.
Mr. Hood’s Journey to the Basquiau Hill.
Sojourns with an Indian Party.
His Journey to Chipewyan.
CHAPTER 7.
Departure from Chipewyan.
Difficulties of the various Navigations of the Rivers and Lakes, and of
the Portages.
Slave Lake and Fort Providence.
Scarcity of Provisions, and Discontent of the Canadian Voyagers.
Difficulties with regard to the Indian Guides.
Refusal to proceed.
Visit of Observation to the upper part of Copper-Mine River.
Return to the winter quarters of Fort Enterprise.
CHAPTER 8.
Transactions at Fort Enterprise.
Mr. Back’s Narrative of his Journey to Chipewyan, and Return.
CHAPTER 9.
Continuation of Proceedings at Fort Enterprise.
Some Account of the Copper Indians.
Preparations for the Journey to the Northward.
CHAPTER 10.
Departure from Fort Enterprise.
Navigation of the Copper-Mine River.
Visit to the Copper Mountain.
Interview with the Esquimaux.
Departure of the Indian Hunters.
Arrangements made with them for our Return.
CHAPTER 11.
Navigation of the Polar Sea, in two Canoes, as far as Cape Turnagain,
to the Eastward, a distance exceeding Five Hundred and Fifty Miles.
Observations on the probability of a North-West Passage.
CHAPTER 12.
Journey across the barren grounds.
Difficulty and delay in crossing Copper-Mine River.
Melancholy and Fatal Results thereof.
Extreme Misery of the whole Party.
Murder of Mr. Hood.
Death of several of the Canadians.
Desolate State of Fort Enterprise.
Distress suffered at that Place.
Dr. Richardson’s Narrative.
Mr. Back’s Narrative.
Conclusion.
INTRODUCTION.
His Majesty’s Government having determined upon sending an Expedition
from the Shores of Hudson’s Bay by land to explore the Northern Coast
of America from the Mouth of the Copper-Mine River to the eastward, I
had the honour to be appointed to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the
recommendation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty; who at the
same time nominated Doctor John Richardson, a Surgeon in the Royal
Navy, Mr. George Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty Midshipmen,
to be joined with me in the enterprise. My instructions in substance
informed me that the main object of the Expedition was that of
determining the latitudes and longitudes of the Northern Coast of North
America, and the trending of that Coast from the Mouth of the
Copper-Mine River to the eastern extremity of that Continent; that it
was left for me to determine according to circumstances whether it
might be most advisable to proceed at once directly to the northward
till I arrived at the sea-coast, and thence westerly towards the
Copper-Mine River; or advance in the first instance by the usual route
to the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, and from thence easterly till I
should arrive at the eastern extremity of that Continent; that in the
adoption of either of these plans I was to be guided by the advice and
information which I should receive from the wintering servants of the
Hudson’s Bay Company, who would be instructed by their employers to
cooperate cordially in the prosecution of the objects of the
Expedition, and who would provide me with the necessary escort of
Indians to act as guides, interpreters, game-killers, etc.; and also
with such articles of clothing, ammunition, snowshoes, presents, etc.,
as should be deemed expedient for me to take. That as another principal
object of the Expedition was to amend the very defective geography of
the northern part of North America I was to be very careful to
ascertain correctly the latitude and longitude of every remarkable spot
upon our route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers, headlands, etc.,
that might occur along the Northern Shore of North America. That in
proceeding along the coast I should erect conspicuous marks at places
where ships might enter, or to which a boat could be sent; and to
deposit information as to the nature of the coast for the use of
Lieutenant Parry. That in the journal of our route I should register
the temperature of the air at least three times in every twenty-four
hours; together with the state of the wind and weather and any other
meteorological phenomena. That I should not neglect any opportunity of
observing and noting down the dip and variation of the magnetic needle,
and the intensity of the magnetic force; and should take particular
notice whether any, and what kind or degree of, influence the Aurora
Borealis might appear to exert on the magnetic needle; and to notice
whether that phenomenon were attended with any noise; and to make any
other observations that might be likely to tend to the further
development of its cause and the laws by which it is governed.
Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist me in all the observations
above-mentioned, and to make drawings of the land, of the natives, and
of the various objects of Natural History; and particularly of such as
Dr. Richardson who, to his professional duties was to add that of
naturalist, might consider to be most curious and interesting.
I was instructed, on my arrival at or near the Mouth of the Copper-Mine
River, to make every inquiry as to the situation of the spot whence
native copper had been brought down by the Indians to the Hudson’s Bay
establishment, and to visit and explore the place in question; in order
that Dr. Richardson might be enabled to make such observations as might
be useful in a commercial point of view, or interesting to the science
of mineralogy.
From Joseph Berens, Esquire, the Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company,
and the gentlemen of the Committee I received all kinds of assistance
and information, communicated in the most friendly manner previous to
my leaving England; and I had the gratification of perusing the orders
to their agents and servants in North America, containing the fullest
directions to promote by every means the progress of the Expedition. I
most cheerfully avail myself of this opportunity of expressing my
gratitude to these gentlemen for their personal kindness to myself and
the other officers, as well as for the benefits rendered by them to the
Expedition; and the same sentiment is due towards the Gentlemen of the
North-West Company, both in England and America, more particularly to
Simon McGillivray, Esquire, of London, from whom I received much useful
information and cordial letters of recommendation to the partners and
agents of that Company resident on our line of route.
A short time before I left London I had the pleasure and advantage of
an interview with the late Sir Alexander Mackenzie who was one of the
two persons who had visited the coast we were to explore. He afforded
me, in the most open and kind manner, much valuable information and
advice.
The provisions, instruments, and other articles, of which I had
furnished a list by direction of the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, were embarked on board the Hudson’s Bay Company’s ship
_Prince of Wales_, appointed by the Committee to convey the Expedition
to York Factory, their principal establishment in Hudson’s Bay.
It will be seen in the course of the Narrative how much reason I had to
be satisfied with, and how great my obligations are to, all the
gentlemen who were associated with me in the Expedition, whose
kindness, good conduct, and cordial cooperation have made an impression
which can never be effaced from my mind. The unfortunate death of Mr.
Hood is the only drawback which I feel from the otherwise unalloyed
pleasure of reflecting on that cordial unanimity which at all times
prevailed among us in the days of sunshine, and in those of sickness
and sorrow.
To Dr. Richardson in particular the exclusive merit is due of whatever
collections and observations have been made in the department of
Natural History; and I am indebted to him in no small degree for his
friendly advice and assistance in the preparation of the present
narrative.
The charts and drawings were made by Lieutenant Back and the late
Lieutenant Hood. Both these gentlemen cheerfully and ably assisted me
in making the observations and in the daily conduct of the Expedition.
The observations made by Mr. Hood on the various phenomena presented by
the Aurora Borealis[1] will it is presumed present to the reader some
new facts connected with this meteor. Mr. Back was mostly prevented
from turning his attention to objects of science by the many severe
duties which were required of him and which obliged him to travel
almost constantly every winter that we passed in America; to his
personal exertions, indeed, our final safety is mainly to be
attributed. And here I must be permitted to pay the tribute due to the
fidelity, exertion and uniform good conduct in the most trying
situations of John Hepburn, an English seaman and our only attendant,
to whom in the latter part of our journey we owe, under Divine
Providence, the preservation of the lives of some of the party.
[1] Given in the Appendix to the Quarto Edition.
I ought perhaps to crave the reader’s indulgence towards the defective
style of this work, which I trust will not be refused when it is
considered that mine has been a life of constant employment in my
profession from a very early age. I have been prompted to venture upon
the task solely by an imperious sense of duty when called upon to
undertake it.
In the ensuing Narrative the notices of the moral condition of the
Indians as influenced by the conduct of the traders towards them refer
entirely to the state in which it existed during our progress through
the country; but lest I should have been mistaken respecting the views
of the Hudson’s Bay Company on these points I gladly embrace the
opportunity which a Second Edition affords me of stating that the
junction of the two Companies has enabled the Directors to put in
practice the improvements which I have reason to believe they had long
contemplated. They have provided for religious instruction by the
appointment of two Clergymen of the established church under whose
direction schoolmasters and mistresses are to be placed at such
stations as afford the means of support for the establishment of
schools. The offspring of the voyagers and labourers are to be educated
chiefly at the expense of the Company; and such of the Indian children
as their parents may wish to send to these schools are to be
instructed, clothed, and maintained at the expense of the Church
Missionary Society which has already allotted a considerable sum for
these purposes and has also sent out teachers who are to act under the
superintendence of the Reverend Mr. West, the principal chaplain of the
Company.
We had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman at York Factory, and
witnessed with peculiar delight that great benefit which already marked
his zealous and judicious conduct. Many of the traders and of the
servants of the Company had been induced to marry the women with whom
they had cohabited; a material step towards the improvement of the
females in that country.
Mr. West, under the sanction of the Directors, has also promoted a
subscription for the distribution of the Bible in every part of the
country where the Company’s Fur Trade has extended, and which has met
with very general support from the resident chief factors, traders, and
clerks. The Directors of the Company are continuing to reduce the
distribution of spirits gradually among the Indians, as well as towards
their own servants, with a view to the entire disuse of them as soon as
this most desirable object can be accomplished. They have likewise
issued orders for the cultivation of the ground at each of the posts,
by which means the residents will be far less exposed to famine
whenever, through the scarcity of animals, the sickness of the Indians,
or any other cause, their supply of meat may fail.
It is to be hoped that intentions, so dear to every humane and pious
mind, will, through the blessing of God, meet with the utmost success.
FRANKLIN’S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.
CHAPTER 1.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. TRANSACTIONS AT STROMNESS. ENTER DAVIS STRAITS.
PERILOUS SITUATION ON THE SHORE OF RESOLUTION ISLAND. LAND ON THE COAST
OF LABRADOR. ESQUIMAUX OF SAVAGE ISLANDS. YORK FACTORY. PREPARATIONS
FOR THE JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND.
May, 1819.
On Sunday the 23rd of May the whole of our party embarked at Gravesend
on board the ship _Prince of Wales_, belonging to the Hudson’s Bay
Company, just as she was in the act of getting under weigh with her
consorts the _Eddystone_ and _Wear_. The wind being unfavourable on the
ebb tide being finished, the vessels were again anchored; but they
weighed in the night and beat down as far as the Warp, where they were
detained two days by a strong easterly wind.
Having learned from some of the passengers, who were the trading
Officers of the Company, that the arrival of the ships at either of the
establishments in Hudson’s Bay gives full occupation to all the boatmen
in their service, who are required to convey the necessary stores to
the different posts in the interior; that it was very probable a
sufficient number of men might not be procured from this indispensable
duty; and, considering that any delay at York Factory would materially
retard our future operations, I wrote to the Under Secretary of State
requesting his permission to provide a few well-qualified steersmen and
bowmen at Stromness to assist our proceedings in the former part of our
journey into the interior.
May 30.
The easterly wind, which had retarded the ship’s progress so much that
we had only reached Hollesley Bay after a week’s beating about, changed
to West-South-West soon after that anchorage had been gained. The
vessels instantly weighed and, by carrying all sail, arrived in
Yarmouth Roads at seven P.M.; the pilots were landed and our course was
continued through the anchorage. At midnight the wind became light and
variable and gradually drew round to the North-West and, as the sky
indicated unsettled weather and the wind blew from an unfavourable
quarter for ships upon that coast, the commander bore up again for
Yarmouth and anchored at eight A.M.
This return afforded us at least the opportunity of comparing the
longitude of Yarmouth church, as shown by our chronometers, with its
position as laid down by the Ordnance Trigonometrical Survey; and it
was satisfactory to find, from the small difference in their results,
that the chronometers had not experienced any alteration in their rates
in consequence of their being changed from a horizontal position in a
room to that of being carried in the pocket.
An untoward circumstance while at this anchorage cast a damp on our
party at this early period of the voyage. Emboldened by the decided
appearance of the North-West sky, several of our officers and
passengers ventured on shore for a few hours; but we had not been long
in the town before the wind changed suddenly to South-East, which
caused instant motion in the large fleet collected at this anchorage.
The commander of our ship intimated his intention of proceeding to sea
by firing guns; and the passengers hastened to embark. Mr. Back however
had unfortunately gone upon some business to a house two or three miles
distant from Yarmouth along the line of the coast; from whence he
expected to be able to observe the first symptoms of moving which the
vessels might make. By some accident however he did not make his
appearance before the captain was obliged to make sail that he might
get the ships through the intricate passage of the Cockle Gat before it
was dark. Fortunately, through the kindness of Lieutenant Hewit of the
_Protector_, I was enabled to convey a note to our missing companion,
desiring him to proceed immediately by the coach to the Pentland Firth,
and from thence across the passage to Stromness, which appeared to be
the only way of proceeding by which he could rejoin the party.
TRANSACTIONS AT STROMNESS.
June 3.
The wind continuing favourable after leaving Yarmouth, about nine this
morning we passed the rugged and bold projecting rock termed Johnny
Groat’s house and soon afterwards Duncansby Head, and then entered the
Pentland Firth. A pilot came from the main shore of Scotland and
steered the ship in safety between the different islands to the outer
anchorage at Stromness, though the atmosphere was too dense for
distinguishing any of the objects on the land. Almost immediately after
the ship had anchored the wind changed to north-west, the rain ceased
and a sight was then first obtained of the neighbouring islands and of
the town of Stromness, the latter of which from this point of view and
at this distance presented a pleasing appearance.
Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson’s Bay Company at this place,
undertook to communicate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the different
parishes by a notice on the church door, which he said was the surest
and most direct channel for the conveyance of information to the lower
classes in these islands as they invariably attend divine service there
every Sunday. He informed me that the kind of men we were in want of
would be difficult to procure on account of the very increased demand
for boatmen for the herring fishery which had recently been established
on the shores of these islands; that last year sixty boats and four
hundred men only were employed in this service whereas now there were
three hundred boats and twelve hundred men engaged; and that owing to
this unexpected addition to the fishery he had been unable to provide
the number of persons required for the service of the Hudson’s Bay
Company. This was unpleasant information as it increased the
apprehension of our being detained at York Factory the whole winter if
boatmen were not taken from hence. I could not therefore hesitate in
requesting Mr. Geddes to engage eight or ten men well adapted for our
service on such terms as he could procure them, though the Secretary of
State’s permission had not yet reached me.
Next to a supply of boatmen our attention was directed towards the
procuring of a house conveniently situated for trying the instruments
and examining the rates of the chronometers. Mr. Geddes kindly offered
one of his which, though in an unfinished state, was readily accepted,
being well situated for our purpose as it was placed on an eminence,
had a southern aspect, and was at a sufficient distance from the town
to secure us from frequent interruption. Another advantage was its
proximity to the Manse, the residence of the Reverend Mr. Clouston, the
worthy and highly respected minister of Stromness whose kind
hospitality and the polite attention of his family the party
experienced almost daily during their stay.
For three days the weather was unsettled and few observations could be
made except for the dip of the needle which was ascertained to be 74°
37′ 48″, on which occasion a difference of eight degrees and a half was
perceived between the observations when the face of the instrument was
changed from the east to the west, the amount being the greatest when
it was placed with the face to the west. But on the 8th a westerly wind
caused a cloudless sky which enabled us to place the transit instrument
in the meridian and to ascertain the variation of the compass to be 27°
50′ west. The sky becoming cloudy in the afternoon prevented our
obtaining the corresponding observations to those gained in the
morning; and the next day an impervious fog obscured the sky until
noon. On the evening of this day we had the gratification of welcoming
our absent companion Mr. Back. His return to our society was hailed
with sincere pleasure by everyone and removed a weight of anxiety from
my mind. It appears that he had come down to the beach at Caistor just
as the ships were passing by and had applied to some boatmen to convey
him on board, which might have been soon accomplished but they,
discovering the emergency of his case, demanded an exorbitant reward
which he was not at the instant prepared to satisfy; and in consequence
they positively refused to assist him. Though he had travelled nine
successive days, almost without rest, he could not be prevailed upon to
withdraw from the agreeable scene of a ballroom in which he joined us
until a late hour.
On the 10th, the rain having ceased, the observations for ascertaining
the dip of the needle were repeated; and the results compared with the
former ones gave a mean of 74° 33′ 20″. Nearly the same differences
were remarked in reversing the face of the instrument as before. An
attempt was also made to ascertain the magnetic force but the wind blew
too strong for procuring the observation to any degree of accuracy.
The fineness of the following day induced us to set up the different
instruments for examination and to try how nearly the observations made
by each of them would agree; but a squall passed over just before noon,
accompanied by heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable opportunity was
entirely lost. In the intervals between the observations, and at every
opportunity, my companions were occupied in those pursuits to which
their attention had been more particularly directed in my instructions.
Whilst Dr. Richardson was collecting and examining the various
specimens of marine plants, of which these islands furnish an abundant
and diversified supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views and sketches
of the surrounding scenery which is extremely picturesque in many
parts, and wants only the addition of trees to make it beautiful. The
hills present the bold character of rugged sterility, whilst the
valleys at this season are clothed with luxuriant verdure.
It was not till the 14th that, by appointment, the boatmen were to
assemble at the house of Mr. Geddes to engage to accompany the
Expedition. Several persons collected but, to my great mortification, I
found they were all so strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension
either that great danger would attend the service, or that we should
carry them further than they would agree to go, that not a single man
would engage with us; some of them however said they would consider the
subject and give me an answer on the following day. This indecisive
conduct was extremely annoying to me especially as the next evening was
fixed for the departure of the ships.
At the appointed time on the following morning four men only presented
themselves and these, after much hesitation, engaged to accompany the
Expedition to Fort Chipewyan if they should be required so far. The
bowmen and steersmen were to receive forty pounds wages annually and
the middle men thirty-five pounds. They stipulated to be sent back to
the Orkney Islands free of expense and to receive their pay until the
time of their arrival. Only these few men could be procured although
our requisition had been sent to almost every island, even as far as
the northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused with the extreme
caution these men used before they would sign the agreement; they
minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed every circumstance, looked
narrowly into the plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to
the prospect of return. Such caution on the part of the northern
mariners forms a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless
manner in which an English seaman enters upon any enterprise, however
hazardous, without inquiring or desiring to know where he is going or
what he is going about.
The brig _Harmony_, belonging to the Moravian Missionary Society and
bound to their settlement at Nain on the coast of Labrador, was lying
at anchor. With the view of collecting some Esquimaux words and
sentences, or gaining any information respecting the manners and habits
of that people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a visit. We found
the passengers who were going out as Missionaries extremely disposed to
communicate; but as they only spoke the German and Esquimaux languages,
of which we were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily much
confined; by the aid however of an Esquimaux and German Dictionary some
few words were collected which we considered might be useful. There
were on board a very interesting girl and a young man who were natives
of Disco in old Greenland; both of them had fair complexions, rather
handsome features, and a lively manner; the former was going to be
married to a resident Missionary and the latter to officiate in that
character. The commander of the vessel gave me a translation of the
Gospel of St. John in the Esquimaux language printed by the Moravian
Society in London.
June 16.
The wind being unfavourable for sailing I went on shore with Dr.
Richardson and took several lunar observations at the place of our
former residence. The result obtained was latitude 58° 56′ 56″ North;
longitude 3° 17′ 55″ West; variation 27° 50′ West; dip of the magnetic
needle 74° 33′ 20″. In the afternoon the wind changed in a squall some
points towards the north and the _Prince of Wales_ made the preparatory
signal for sea. At three P.M. the ships weighed, an hour too early for
the tide; as soon as this served we entered into the passage between
Hoy and Pomona, and had to beat through against a very heavy swell
which the meeting of a weather tide and a strong breeze had occasioned.
Some dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona shore and on this side also
the tide appeared to run with the greatest strength. On clearing the
outward projecting points of Hoy and Pomona we entered at once into the
Atlantic and commenced our voyage to Hudson’s Bay, having the
_Eddystone_, _Wear_ and _Harmony_, Missionary brig, in company.
The comparisons of the chronometers this day indicated that Arnold’s
Numbers 2148 and 2147 had slightly changed their rates since they had
been brought on board; fortunately the rate of the former seems to have
increased nearly in the same ratio as the other has lost, and the mean
longitude will not be materially affected.
Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic I issued a general
memorandum for the guidance of the officers during the prosecution of
the service on which we were engaged, and communicated to them the
several points of information that were expected from us by my
instructions. I also furnished them with copies of the signals which
had been agreed upon between Lieutenant Parry and myself to be used in
the event of our reaching the northern coast of America and falling in
with each other.
At the end of the month of June our progress was found to have been
extremely slow owing to a determined North-West wind and much sea. We
had numerous birds hovering round the ship; principally fulmars
(_Procellaria glacialis_) and shearwaters (_Procellaria puffinus_) and
not unfrequently saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which the
Greenland seamen term finners from their large dorsal fin. Some
porpoises occasionally appeared and whenever they did the crew were
sanguine in their expectation of having a speedy change in the wind
which had been so vexatiously contrary but they were disappointed in
every instance.
Thursday, July 1.
The month of July set in more favourably; and aided by fresh breezes we
advanced rapidly to the westward, attended daily by numerous fulmars
and shearwaters. The Missionary brig had parted company on the 22nd of
June. We passed directly over that part of the ocean where the Sunken
Land of Buss is laid down in the old, and continued in the Admiralty
charts. Mr. Bell, the commander of the _Eddystone_, informed me that
the pilot who brought his ship down the Thames told him that he had
gained soundings in twelve feet somewhere hereabout; and I am rather
inclined to attribute the very unusual and cross sea we had in this
neighbourhood to the existence of a bank than to the effect of a gale
of wind which we had just before experienced; and I cannot but regret
that the commander of the ship did not try for soundings at frequent
intervals.
ENTER DAVIS STRAITS.
By the 25th July we had opened the entrance of Davis Straits and in the
afternoon spoke the _Andrew Marvell_, bound to England with a cargo of
fourteen fish. The master informed us that the ice had been heavier
this season in Davis Straits than he had ever recollected, and that it
lay particularly close to the westward, being connected with the shore
to the northward of Resolution Island and extending from thence within
a short distance of the Greenland coast; that whales had been abundant
but the ice so extremely cross that few could be killed. His ship, as
well as several others, had suffered material injury, and two vessels
had been entirely crushed between vast masses of ice in latitude 74°
40′ North, but the crews were saved. We inquired anxiously but in vain
for intelligence respecting Lieutenant Parry and the ships under his
command; but as he mentioned that the wind had been blowing strong from
the northward for some time, which would probably have cleared Baffin’s
Bay of ice, we were disposed to hope favourably of his progress.
The clouds assumed so much the appearance of icebergs this evening as
to deceive most of the passengers and crew; but their imaginations had
been excited by the intelligence we had received from the _Andrew
Marvell_ that she had only parted from a cluster of them two days
previous to our meeting.
On the 27th, being in latitude 57° 44′ 21″ North, longitude 47° 31′ 14″
West and the weather calm, we tried our soundings but did not reach the
bottom. The register thermometer was attached to the line just above
the lead, and is supposed to have descended six hundred and fifty
fathoms. A well-corked bottle was also fastened to the line two hundred
fathoms above the lead and went down four hundred and fifty fathoms.
The change in temperature shown by the register thermometer during the
descent was from 52° to 40.5; and it stood at the latter point when
taken out of the tin case. The temperature of the water brought up in
the bottle was 41°, being half a degree higher at four hundred and
fifty than at six hundred and fifty fathoms and four degrees colder
than the water at the surface which was then at 45°, whilst that of the
air was 46°. This experiment in showing the water to be colder at a
great depth than at the surface, and in proportion to the increase of
the descent, coincides with the observations of Captain Ross and
Lieutenant Parry on their late voyage to these seas, but is contrary to
the results obtained by Captain Buchan and myself on our recent voyage
to the north between Spitzbergen and Greenland, in which sea we
invariably found the water brought from any great depth to be warmer
than that at the surface.
On the 28th we tacked to avoid an extensive stream of sailing ice. The
temperature of the water fell to 39.5° when we were near it, but was at
41° when at the distance of half a mile. The thermometer in the air
remained steadily at 40°. Thus the proximity of this ice was not so
decidedly indicated by the decrease of the temperature of either the
air or water as I have before witnessed, which was probably owing to
the recent arrival of the stream at this point and its passing at too
quick a rate for the effectual diffusion of its chilling influence
beyond a short distance. Still the decrease in both cases was
sufficient to have given timely warning for a ship’s performing any
evolution that would have prevented the coming in contact with it had
the thickness of the weather precluded a distant view of the danger.
The approach to ice would be more evidently pointed out in the
Atlantic, or wherever the surface is not so continually chilled by the
passing and the melting of ice as in this sea; and I should strongly
recommend a strict hourly attention to the thermometrical state of the
water at the surface in all parts where ships are exposed to the
dangerous concussion of sailing icebergs, as a principal means of
security.
The following day our ship came near another stream of ice and the
approach to it was indicated by a decrease of the temperature of the
water at the surface from 44° to 42°. A small pine-tree was picked up
much shattered by the ice. In the afternoon of the 30th a very dense
fog came on; and about six P.M. when sailing before a fresh breeze we
were suddenly involved in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable
difficulty was experienced in steering through the narrow channels
between the different masses in this foggy weather, and the ship
received several severe blows.
The water, as usual in the centre of the stream, was quite smooth, but
we heard the waves beating violently against the outer edge of the ice.
There was some earthy matter on several of the pieces, and the whole
body bore the appearance of recent separation from the land. In the
space of two hours we again got into the open sea, but had left our two
consorts far behind; they followed our track by the guns we discharged.
The temperature of the surface water was 35° when amongst the ice, 38°
when just clear of it, and 41.5° at two miles distant.
On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59° 58′ North, longitude 59° 53′
West, we first fell in with large icebergs; and in the evening were
encompassed by several of considerable magnitude, which obliged us to
tack the ship in order to prevent our getting entangled amongst them.
The estimated distance from the nearest part of the Labrador coast was
then eighty-eight miles; here we tried for soundings without gaining
the bottom. The ship passed through some strong ripplings, which
evidently indicated a current, but its direction was not ascertained.
We found however by the recent observations that the ship had been set
daily to the southward since we had opened Davis Straits. The variation
of the compass was observed to be 52° 41′ West.
At nine P.M. brilliant coruscations of the Aurora Borealis appeared, of
a pale ochre colour with a slight tinge of red, in an arched form,
crossing the zenith from North-West to South-East, but afterwards they
assumed various shapes and had a rapid motion.
On the 5th of August a party of the officers endeavoured to get on one
of the larger icebergs, but ineffectually, owing to the steepness and
smoothness of its sides and the swell produced by its undulating
motion. This was one of the largest we saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained
its height to be one hundred and forty-nine feet; but these masses of
ice are frequently magnified to an immense size through the illusive
medium of a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their dimensions have
often been exaggerated by voyagers.
PERILOUS SITUATION ON THE SHORE OF RESOLUTION ISLAND.
In the morning of the 7th the island of Resolution was indistinctly
seen through the haze but was soon afterwards entirely hidden by a very
dense fog. The favourable breeze subsided into a perfect calm and left
the ship surrounded by loose ice. At this time the _Eddystone_ was
perceived to be driving with rapidity towards some of the larger
masses; the stern-boats of this ship and of the _Wear_ were despatched
to assist in towing her clear of them. At ten a momentary clearness
presented the land distinctly at the distance of two miles; the ship
was quite unmanageable and under the sole governance of the currents
which ran in strong eddies between the masses of ice. Our consorts were
also seen, the _Wear_ being within hail and the _Eddystone_ at a short
distance from us. Two attempts were ineffectually made to gain
soundings, and the extreme density of the fog precluded us from any
other means of ascertaining the direction in which we were driving
until half-past twelve when we had the alarming view of a barren rugged
shore within a few yards towering over the mastheads. Almost instantly
afterwards the ship struck violently on a point of rocks projecting
from the island; and the ship’s side was brought so near to the shore
that poles were prepared to push her off. This blow displaced the
rudder and raised it several inches but it fortunately had been
previously confined by tackles. A gentle swell freed the ship from this
perilous situation but the current hurried us along in contact with the
rocky shore and the prospect was most alarming. On the outward bow was
perceived a rugged and precipitous cliff whose summit was hid in the
fog, and the vessel’s head was pointed towards the bottom of a small
bay into which we were rapidly driving. There now seemed to be no
probability of escaping shipwreck, being without wind and having the
rudder in its present useless state; the only assistance was that of a
boat employed in towing which had been placed in the water between the
ship and the shore at the imminent risk of its being crushed. The ship
again struck in passing over a ledge of rocks and happily the blow
replaced the rudder, which enabled us to take advantage of a light
breeze and to direct the ship’s head without the projecting cliff. But
the breeze was only momentary and the ship was a third time driven on
shore on the rocky termination of the cliff. Here we remained
stationery for some seconds and with little prospect of being removed
from this perilous situation; but we were once more extricated by the
swell from this ledge also and carried still farther along the shore.
The coast became now more rugged and our view of it was terminated by
another high projecting point on the starboard bow. Happily, before we
had reached it, a light breeze enabled us to turn the ship’s head to
seaward and we had the gratification to find, when the sails were
trimmed, that she drew off the shore. We had made but little progress
however when she was violently forced by the current against a large
iceberg lying aground.
Our prospect was now more alarming than at any preceding period; and it
would be difficult for me to portray the anxiety and dismay depicted on
the countenances of the female passengers and children who were rushing
on deck in spite of the endeavours of the officers to keep them below,
out of the danger which was apprehended if the masts should be carried
away. After the first concussion the ship was driven along the steep
and rugged side of this iceberg with such amazing rapidity that the
destruction of the masts seemed inevitable, and everyone expected we
should again be forced on the rocks in the most disabled state; but we
providentially escaped this perilous result, which must have been
decisive.
The dense fog now cleared away for a short time and we discovered the
_Eddystone_ close to some rocks, having three boats employed in towing;
but the _Wear_ was not visible.
Our ship received water very fast; the pumps were instantly manned and
kept in continual use, and signals of distress were made to the
_Eddystone_, whose commander promptly came on board and then ordered to
our assistance his carpenter and all the men he could spare together
with the carpenter and boat’s crew of the _Wear_, who had gone on board
the _Eddystone_ in the morning and were prevented from returning to
their own vessel by the fog. As the wind was increasing and the sky
appeared very unsettled it was determined the _Eddystone_ should take
the ship in tow, that the undivided attention of the passengers and
crew might be directed to pumping and clearing the holds to examine
whether there was a possibility of stopping the leak. We soon had
reason to suppose the principal injury had been received from a blow
near the stern-post, and after cutting away part of the ceiling the
carpenters endeavoured to stop the rushing in of the water by forcing
oakum between the timbers; but this had not the desired effect and the
leak, in spite of all our efforts at the pumps, increased so much that
parties of the officers and passengers were stationed to bail out the
water in buckets at different parts of the hold. A heavy gale came on,
blowing from the land, as the night advanced; the sails were split, the
ship was encompassed by heavy ice and, in forcing through a
closely-connected stream, the tow-rope broke and obliged us to take a
portion of the seamen from the pumps and appoint them to the management
of the ship.
Fatigue indeed had caused us to relax in our exertions at the pumps
during a part of the night of the 8th, and on the following morning
upwards of five feet of water was found in the well. Renewed exertions
were now put forth by every person, and before eight A.M. the water was
so much reduced as to enable the carpenters to get at other defective
places; but the remedies they could apply were insufficient to repress
the water from rushing in, and our labours could but just keep the ship
in the same state throughout the day until six P.M.; when the strength
of everyone began to fail the expedient of thrusting in felt, as well
as oakum, was resorted to, and a plank nailed over all. After this
operation a perceptible diminution in the water was made and, being
encouraged by the change, we put forth our utmost exertion in bailing
and pumping; and before night to our infinite joy the leak was so
overpowered that the pumps were only required to be used at intervals
of ten minutes. A sail covered with every substance that could be
carried into the leaks by the pressure of the water was drawn under the
quarter of the ship and secured by ropes on each side.
As a matter of precaution in the event of having to abandon the ship,
which was for some time doubtful, the elderly women and children were
removed to the _Eddystone_ when the wind was moderate this afternoon,
but the young women remained to assist at the pumps, and their services
were highly valuable, both for their personal labour and for the
encouragement their example and perseverance gave to the men.
At daylight on the 9th every eye was anxiously cast around the horizon
in search of the _Wear_ but in vain; and the recollection of our own
recent peril caused us to entertain considerable apprehensions for her
safety. This anxiety quickened our efforts to exchange our shattered
sails for new ones that the ship might be got as speedily as possible
near to the land, which was but just in sight, and a careful search be
made for her along the coast. We were rejoiced to find that our leak
did not increase by carrying sail, and we ventured in the evening to
remove the sail which had been placed under the part where the injury
had been received as it greatly impeded our advance.
We passed many icebergs on the 10th and in the evening we tacked from a
level field of ice which extended northward as far as the eye could
reach. Our leak remained in the same state; the pumps discharged in
three minutes the quantity of water which had been received in fifteen.
LAND ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR.
The ship could not be got near to the land before the afternoon of the
11th. At four P.M. we hove to, opposite to and about five miles distant
from the spot on which we had first struck on Saturday. Every glass was
directed along the shore (as they had been throughout the day) to
discover any trace of our absent consort; but as none was seen our
solicitude respecting her was much increased, and we feared the crew
might be wrecked on this inhospitable shore. Guns were frequently fired
to apprise any who might be near of our approach; but as no one
appeared and no signal was returned and the loose ice was setting down
towards the ship we bore up to proceed to the next appointed
rendezvous. At eight P.M. we were abreast of the south-west end of the
island called Cape Resolution, which is a low point but indicated at a
distance by a lofty round-backed hill that rises above it. We entered
Hudson’s Straits soon afterwards.
The coast of Resolution Island should be approached with caution as the
tides appear to be strong and uncertain in their course. Some dangerous
rocks lie above and below the water’s edge at the distance of five or
six miles from East Bluff bearing South 32° East.
August 12.
Having had a fresh gale through the night we reached Saddleback Island
by noon—the place of rendezvous; and looked anxiously but in vain for
the _Wear_. Several guns were fired, supposing she might be hid from
our view by the land; but as she did not appear Captain Davidson,
having remained two hours, deemed further delay inexpedient and bore up
to keep the advantage of the fair wind. The outline of this island is
rugged; the hummock on its northern extremity appeared to me to
resemble a decayed martello tower more than a saddle.
Azimuths were obtained this evening that gave the variation 58° 45′
West, which is greater than is laid down in the charts, or than the
officers of Hudson’s Bay ships have been accustomed to allow.
ESQUIMAUX OF SAVAGE ISLANDS.
We arrived abreast of the Upper Savage Island early in the morning and,
as the breeze was moderate, the ship was steered as near to the shore
as the wind would permit to give the Esquimaux inhabitants an
opportunity of coming off to barter, which they soon embraced.
Their shouts at a distance intimated their approach some time before we
descried the canoes paddling towards us; the headmost of them reached
us at eleven; these were quickly followed by others, and before noon
about forty canoes, each holding one man, were assembled around the two
ships. In the afternoon when we approached nearer to the shore five or
six larger ones containing the women and children came up.
The Esquimaux immediately evinced their desire to barter and displayed
no small cunning in making their bargains, taking care not to exhibit
too many articles at first. Their principal commodities were oil,
sea-horse teeth, whalebone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots,
deerskins and horns, and models of their canoes; and they received in
exchange small saws, knives, nails, tin-kettles, and needles. It was
pleasing to behold the exultation and to hear the shouts of the whole
party when an acquisition was made by any one; and not a little
ludicrous to behold the eagerness with which the fortunate person
licked each article with his tongue on receiving it, as a finish to the
bargain and an act of appropriation. They in no instance omitted this
strange practice, however small the article; the needles even passed
individually through the ceremony. The women brought imitations of men,
women, animals, and birds, carved with labour and ingenuity out of
sea-horse teeth. The dresses and the figures of the animals were not
badly executed, but there was no attempt at the delineation of the
countenances; and most of the figures were without eyes, ears and
fingers, the execution of which would perhaps have required more
delicate instruments than they possess. The men set most value on saws;
_kuttee-swa-bak_, the name by which they distinguish them, was a
constant cry. Knives were held next in estimation. An old sword was
bartered from the _Eddystone_ and I shall long remember the universal
burst of joy on the happy man’s receiving it. It was delightful to
witness the general interest excited by individual acquisitions. There
was no desire shown by anyone to over-reach his neighbour, or to press
towards any part of the ship where a bargain was making until the
person in possession of the place had completed his exchange and
removed; and if any article happened to be demanded from the outer
canoes the men nearest assisted willingly in passing the thing across.
Supposing the party to belong to one tribe the total number of the
tribe must exceed two hundred persons, as there were probably one
hundred and fifty around the ships, and few of these were elderly
persons or male children.
Their faces were broad and flat, the eyes small. The men were in
general stout. Some of the younger women and the children had rather
pleasing countenances, but the difference between these and the more
aged of that sex bore strong testimony to the effects which a few years
produce in this ungenial climate. Most of the party had sore eyes, all
of them appeared of a plethoric habit of body; several were observed
bleeding at the nose during their stay near the ship. The men’s dresses
consisted of a jacket of seal-skin, the trousers of bear-skin, and
several had caps of the white fox-skin. The female dresses were made of
the same materials but differently shaped, having a hood in which the
infants were carried. We thought their manner very lively and
agreeable. They were fond of mimicking our speech and gestures; but
nothing afforded them greater amusement than when we attempted to
retaliate by pronouncing any of their words.
The canoes were of seal-skin and similar in every respect to those used
by the Esquimaux in Greenland; they were generally new and very
complete in their appointments. Those appropriated to the women are of
ruder construction and only calculated for fine weather; they are
however useful vessels, being capable of containing twenty persons with
their luggage. An elderly man officiates as steersman and the women
paddle, but they have also a mast which carries a sail made of dressed
whale-gut.
When the women had disposed of all their articles of trade they
resorted to entreaty; and the putting in practice many enticing
gestures was managed with so much address as to procure them presents
of a variety of beads, needles, and other articles in great demand
among females.
It is probable these Esquimaux go from this shore to some part of
Labrador to pass the winter, as parties of them have been frequently
seen by the homeward-bound Hudson’s Bay ships in the act of crossing
the Strait.
They appear to speak the same language as the tribe of Esquimaux who
reside near to the Moravian settlements in Labrador: for we perceived
they used several of the words which had been given to us by the
Missionaries at Stromness.
Towards evening the Captain, being desirous to get rid of his visitors,
took an effectual method by tacking from the shore; our friends then
departed apparently in high glee at the harvest they had reaped. They
paddled away very swiftly and would doubtless soon reach the shore
though it was distant ten or twelve miles.
Not having encountered any of the ice which usually arrests the
progress of ships in their outward passage through the Straits, and
being consequently deprived of the usual means of replenishing our
stock of water which had become short, the Captain resolved on going to
the coast of Labrador for a supply. Dr. Richardson and I gladly
embraced this opportunity to land and examine this part of the coast. I
was also desirous to observe the variation on shore as the azimuths
which had been taken on board both ships since our entrance into the
Straits had shown a greater amount than we had been led to expect; but
unluckily the sun became obscured. The beach consisted of large rolled
stones of gneiss and sienite, amongst which many pieces of ice had
grounded, and it was with difficulty that we effected a landing in a
small cove under a steep cliff. These stones were worn perfectly
smooth; neither in the interstices nor at the bottom of the water,
which was very clear, were there any vestiges of seaweed.
The cliff was from forty to fifty feet high and quite perpendicular,
and had at its base a small slip of soil formed of the debris of a bed
of clay-slate. From this narrow spot Dr. Richardson collected specimens
of thirty different species of plants; and we were about to scramble up
a shelving part of the rock and go into the interior when we perceived
the signal of recall which the master had caused to be made in
consequence of a sudden change in the appearance of the weather.
On the evening of the 19th we passed Digge’s Islands, the termination
of Hudson’s Strait. Here the _Eddystone_ parted company, being bound to
Moose Factory at the bottom of the Bay. A strong north wind came on,
which prevented our getting round the north end of Mansfield; and as it
continued to blow with equal strength for the next five days we were
most vexatiously detained in beating along the Labrador coast and near
the dangerous chain of islands, the Sleepers, which are said to extend
from the latitude of 60° 10′ to 57° 00′ North. The press of sail which
of necessity we carried caused the leak to increase and the pumps were
kept in constant use.
A favouring wind at length enabled us on the 25th to shape our course
across Hudson’s Bay. Nothing worthy of remark occurred during this
passage except the rapid decrease in the variation of the magnetic
needle. The few remarks respecting the appearance of the land which we
were able to make in our quick passage through these Straits were
transmitted to the Admiralty; but as they will not be interesting to
the general reader, and may not be sufficiently accurate for the
guidance of the Navigator, they are omitted in this narrative.
YORK FACTORY.
On the 28th we discovered the land to the southward of Cape Tatnam,
which is so extremely low that the tops of the trees were first
discerned; the soundings at the time were seventeen fathoms, which
gradually decreased to five as the shore was approached. Cape Tatnam is
not otherwise remarkable than as being the point from which the coast
inclines rather more to the westward towards York Factory.
The opening of the morning of the 30th presented to our view the
anchorage at York Flats, and the gratifying sight of a vessel at
anchor, which we recognised, after an anxious examination, to be the
_Wear_. A strong breeze blowing from the direction of the Flats caused
the water to be more shallow than usual on the sandy bar which lies on
the seaward side of the anchorage, and we could not get over it before
two P.M. when the tide was nearly at its height.
Immediately after our arrival Mr. Williams, the Governor of the
Hudson’s Bay Company’s posts, came on board accompanied by the
Commander of the _Wear_. The pleasure we felt in welcoming the latter
gentleman can easily be imagined when it is considered what reason we
had to apprehend that he and his crew had been numbered with the dead.
We learned that one of the larger masses of ice had providentially
drifted between the vessel’s side and the rocks just at the time he
expected to strike, to which he secured it until a breeze sprang up and
enabled him to pursue his voyage.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR.
The Governor acquainted me that he had received information from the
Committee of the Hudson’s Bay Company of the equipment of the
Expedition, and that the officers would come out in their first ship.
In the evening Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood, and I accompanied him to York
Factory which we reached after dark; it is distant from the Flats seven
miles. Early next morning the honour of a salute was conferred on the
members of the Expedition.
Having communicated to the Governor the objects of the Expedition, and
that I had been directed to consult with him and the senior servants of
the Company as to the best mode of proceeding towards the execution of
the service, I was gratified by his assurance that his instructions
from the Committee directed that every possible assistance should be
given to forward our progress, and that he should feel peculiar
pleasure in performing this part of his duty. He introduced me at once
to Messrs. Charles, Swaine, and Snodie, masters of districts who, from
long residence in the country, were perfectly acquainted with the
different modes of travelling, and the obstructions which might be
anticipated. At the desire of these gentlemen I drew up a series of
questions respecting the points on which we required information; to
which two days afterwards they had the kindness to return very explicit
and satisfactory answers; and on receiving them I requested the
Governor to favour me with his sentiments on the same subject in
writing, which he delivered to me on the following day.
Having learned that Messrs. Shaw, McTavish, and several other partners
of the North-West Company were under detention at this place we took
the earliest opportunity of visiting them; when, having presented the
general circular and other introductory letters with which I had been
furnished by their agent Mr. Simon McGillivray, we received from them
the most friendly and full assurance of the cordial endeavours of the
wintering partners of their company to promote the interests of the
Expedition. The knowledge we had now gained of the state of the violent
commercial opposition existing in the country rendered this assurance
highly gratifying; and these gentlemen added to the obligation by
freely communicating that information respecting the interior of the
country which their intelligence and long residence so fully qualified
them to give.
I deemed it expedient to issue a memorandum to the officers of the
Expedition strictly prohibiting any interference whatever in the
existing quarrels, or any that might arise, between the two Companies;
and on presenting it to the principals of both the parties they
expressed their satisfaction at the step I had taken.
The opinions of all the gentlemen were so decidedly in favour of the
route by Cumberland House and through the chain of posts to the Great
Slave Lake that I determined on pursuing it, and immediately
communicated my intention to the Governor with a request that he would
furnish me with the means of conveyance for the party as speedily as
possible.
It was suggested in my instructions that we might probably procure a
schooner at this place to proceed north as far as Wager Bay; but the
vessel alluded to was lying at Moose Factory, completely out of repair;
independently of which the route directly to the northward was rendered
impracticable by the impossibility of procuring hunters and guides on
the coast.
I found that, as the Esquimaux inhabitants had left Churchill a month
previous to our arrival, no interpreter from that quarter could be
procured before their return in the following spring. The Governor
however undertook to forward to us, next season, the only one amongst
them who understood English, if he could be induced to go.
The Governor selected one of the largest of the Company’s boats for our
use on the journey, and directed the carpenters to commence refitting
it immediately; but he was only able to furnish us with a steersman;
and we were obliged to make up the rest of the crew with the boatmen
brought from Stromness and our two attendants.
York Factory, the principal depôt of the Hudson’s Bay Company, stands
on the west bank of Hayes River, about five miles above its mouth, on
the marshy peninsula which separates the Hayes and Nelson Rivers. The
surrounding country is flat and swampy and covered with willows,
poplars, larch, spruce, and birch-trees; but the requisition for fuel
has expended all the wood in the vicinity of the fort and the residents
have now to send for it to a considerable distance. The soil is
alluvial clay and contains imbedded rolled stones. Though the bank of
the river is elevated about twenty feet it is frequently overflown by
the spring floods, and large portions are annually carried away by the
disruption of the ice which, grounding in the stream, have formed
several muddy islands. These interruptions, together with the various
collection of stones that are hid at high-water, render the navigation
of the river difficult; but vessels of two hundred tons burden may be
brought through the proper channels as high as the Factory.
The principal buildings are placed in the form of a square having an
octagonal court in the centre; they are two storeys in height and have
flat roofs covered with lead. The officers dwell in one portion of this
square, and in the other parts the articles of merchandise are kept:
the workshops, storehouses for the furs, and the servants’ houses are
ranged on the outside of the square, and the whole is surrounded by a
stockade twenty feet high. A platform is laid from the house to the
pier on the bank for the convenience of transporting the stores and
furs, which is the only promenade the residents have on this marshy
spot during the summer season. The few Indians who now frequent this
establishment belong to the _Swampy Crees_. There were several of them
encamped on the outside of the stockade. Their tents were rudely
constructed by tying twenty or thirty poles together at the top, and
spreading them out at the base so as to form a cone; these were covered
with dressed moose-skins. The fire is placed in the centre and a hole
is left for the escape of the smoke. The inmates had a squalid look and
were suffering under the combined afflictions of the whooping-cough and
measles; but even these miseries did not keep them from an excessive
indulgence in spirits, which they unhappily can procure from the
traders with too much facility; and they nightly serenaded us with
their monotonous drunken songs. Their sickness at this time was
particularly felt by the traders, this being the season of the year
when the exertion of every hunter is required to procure their winter’s
stock of geese, which resort in immense flocks to the extensive flats
in this neighbourhood. These birds during the summer retire far to the
north and breed in security; but when the approach of winter compels
them to seek a more southern climate they generally alight on the
marshes of this bay and fatten there for three weeks or a month before
they take their final departure from the country. They also make a
short halt at the same spots in their progress northwards in the
spring. Their arrival is welcomed with joy, and the goose hunt is one
of the most plentiful seasons of the year. The ducks frequent the
swamps all the summer.
The weather was extremely unfavourable for celestial observations
during our stay, and it was only by watching the momentary appearances
of the sun that we were enabled to obtain fresh rates for the
chronometers and allow for their errors from Greenwich time. The dip of
the needle was observed to be 79° 29′ 07″, and the difference produced
by reversing the face of the instrument was 11° 3′ 40″. A succession of
fresh breezes prevented our ascertaining the intensity of the magnetic
force. The position of York Factory by our observations is in latitude
57° 00′ 03″ North, longitude 92° 26′ West. The variation of the compass
6° 00′ 21″ East.