spark in the hat industry, that event gave it, apparently, a death
thrust. The relative position of Baltimore to both sides was
disastrous to its business interests; being close upon the dividing
line of hostilities, the sympathies of a large part of its citizens
were enlisted in the cause of the South, while, singularly enough, the
larger proportion of the wealth and business interests of the city was
centered in persons allied by family ties to those of the North, who
earnestly upheld the cause of the Union. Cut off from all intercourse
with the South--its legitimate field for business--the share of
Western trade that was enjoyed by Baltimore was lost by the strategy
of war, for with the partial destruction of the Baltimore and Ohio
Railroad the channel of her Western trade was diverted, and it drifted
in other directions. While dissension and strife were being stirred in
Baltimore and her industries lying dormant, business at the North was
being stimulated by State and Government calls for articles necessary
to equip an army for service. Hats were a needful part of an army's
equipment, and Northern hat manufacturers were called upon for the
supply; their factories soon assumed the life and activity of
prosperity, creating a demand for additional skilled labor with good
pay; this induced the unemployed Baltimore hatter to migrate and seek
other places for his support. Thus did Baltimore part with an industry
of importance closely identified with its prosperous early days,
which, after passing through many vicissitudes, dwindled gradually
until it became apparently extinct.
FASHIONS.
No. 12.
The high crown hat, vulgarly termed "stove-pipe," may be taken as the
general indicator of fashions existing during the period of the
present century. Following the "cocked" hat (the counterpart of the
French chapeau), which style prevailed at the time of the American
Revolution, was the "steeple top," which had a conical crown. This
shape for a high hat was soon abandoned and the bell crown
substituted, and so acceptable has this particular style proved that,
since the opening of this century, it has held supremacy as the
fashionable head-covering for man, despite frequent attempts to
destroy its popularity by the introduction of other shapes, or the
advocating of a change as practical.
High hats were first napped with beaver fur, which material, being
expensive, necessarily made costly hats. Otter fur was afterwards
used, then muskrat, which greatly lessened their cost.
"Scratch" or "brush" hats (terms used for hats made with a felt body
and afterwards combed or scratched until a nap was raised) were
manufactured and worn prior to the middle of the century. These were
all stiffened high hats, and constituted the dressy article of
headwear until the introduction of the silk hat, which for the last
fifty years has maintained its ascendency as the leading article of
fashion in gentlemen's hats.
About the year 1830 the beaver hat assumed huge proportions of crown,
having a very heavy "bell," measuring full seven inches in height and
nine inches across the tip; to this crown was added an insignificant
brim of only one and a half inches in width. These hats were covered
with a beaver nap of such a length that it waved with the wind, and
its appearance upon the head of the wearer was as _outre_ and unique
as the "shako" on the head of a modern drum-major.
To more forcibly illustrate the proportions of this style of hat, we
may say that its actual capacity was nearly a peck.
Besides the high hats of either beaver, brush or silk, caps made of
cloth or fur were much used prior to the introduction of the soft
felt hat, and continued to be so until an incident occurred which
created a sudden revolution in the tastes of the American people
regarding their head-dress.
The visit of Louis Kossuth, the eminent Hungarian patriot, to this
country in the year 1851, had the effect of producing a wonderful
change in the fashion of hats. The one worn by Kossuth was a high
unstiffened black felt trimmed with a wide band, and was ornamented
with an ostrich feather. The immense popularity of this famous
foreigner with all Americans brought about the fashion of a similar
hat. Never before or since in this country did the introduction of a
new fashion in hats spread with such rapidity as did the "Kossuth."
All hat factories in the country were taxed to their utmost capacity
to supply the demand, until every American citizen, old and young, was
to be seen wearing a soft hat ornamented with an ostrich plume. It was
the "Kossuth" that marked the era of the introduction of the soft or
slouch hat, and stimulated the sale of that undress article of
headwear, which continued in vogue throughout the United States for a
number of years. The soft hat appeared in many forms and styles, some
of which became universally popular. The "wide-awake," brought out
during the election campaign of Abraham Lincoln, in the year 1860,
was a noted and successful style. It was a low crown, white felt, with
wide black band and binding.
Robert Bonner's original and successful advertising of his newspaper,
the New York _Ledger_, was a sensation of the day, and the "Ledger"
was the name given to a soft hat that commanded a great sale. The
peculiarity of the "Ledger" was a narrow leather band and leather
binding.
The "resorte" brim was an American invention, introduced about the
year 1863; it was simply a wire held to the edge of the brim of a soft
hat with a binding, and so extended as to maintain a flatness, and
permit its conforming to the head without destroying its outlines.
This invention was patented, and its extensive use brought large
profits to the owners of the patent.
The event of the Civil War gave an increased stimulus to the use of
the soft hat. With the South in a state of excitement, alarmed with
portentous fears of a sectional war, such matters as pertained to
elegance of dress were banished from the minds of its people, and the
North, with a large army recruiting from its citizen class, brought
the universal practice of economy among the American people, limiting
their indulgence in expenditures for articles of dress considered as
luxuries, and the silk hat falling under that ban, dropped almost into
absolute disuse. With the return, however, of prosperity, an apparent
desire for a more dressy article was manifest, and the stiff felt hat
generally denominated the Derby was introduced.
The derby was made in various proportions of crown and brim, as the
caprice of fashion dictated, and was, as its name might imply, an
adopted English style; it gradually grew in favor with Americans,
until it became the universal fashion of the day, maintaining that
position for several years. From an increased popularity it has been
brought into such common use as to again create a growing desire for
an article claiming something bearing a more exclusive mark of
gentility or dignity, which the silk hat meets, and the silk hat is
again so increasing in use as to establish the certainty of its
maintaining with the American people its wonted place of priority as
the article of genteel head-dress, marking the standard of fashion and
style.
Baltimore, always noted for its readiness in accepting foreign
fashions, must have been among the first of American cities to adopt
the silk hat, which was claimed to be of French invention, but if
there be any foundation for the following narrative, the first silk
hat was not made in Paris, but in China. It is stated that a French
sea-captain, while sailing on the coast of China, desiring to have his
shabby napped beaver hat, which had been made in Paris, replaced by a
new one, took it ashore, probably to Calcutta or Canton, to see if he
could procure one like it. As Parisian styles were not in vogue in
China, he found nothing of closer resemblance than the lacquered
papier-mache or bamboo straw. The keen shrewdness of the Chinaman,
however, quickly suggested a near imitation in silk-plush. This is
said to have happened in 1830, and the captain returning to Paris,
showed the Chinaman's product to his own hatter, who, upon perceiving
its beauty, at once attempted its introduction as a fashion, which has
long ruled nearly the whole world.
The first silk hat produced in Baltimore is said to have been made by
one Victor Sarata in 1838, though some contend that Jacob Rogers was
the first to make such goods; but as the silk hat was looked upon as
an innovation, and its introduction opposed by hat makers of that
time, as being detrimental to their interests, it is more than
probable that Mr. Rogers did not give encouragement to the manufacture
of an article likely to supplant the use of his own make of "Beavers,"
"Russias" and "Bolivars," and we may thus safely give credit to Victor
Sarata for first producing in Baltimore this new article of fashion,
originating in Paris, the city from whence he came.
Until the year 1850, Paris fashions were those generally adopted in
the leading American cities, after which English fashions in hats
entirely superseded the former, becoming so popular that not only
large importations of English hats were made, but American
manufacturers invariably copied English styles, and indulged in the
degrading habit of pirating English trade-marks, for the purpose of
increasing their sales. Happily, the necessity for such pernicious
practices is at an end, for during the past ten years the great
strides made by American manufacturers in the improvements of hat
making place them in the foremost rank of that industry; in fact, with
those elements of manufacture necessary to perfection, such as
fineness of texture, lightness in weight, and elegance in style,
American hatters to-day hold supremacy in the whole world, and,
favored by relief from the tariff tax upon raw materials from which
hats are made, all of which is of foreign growth, America will be
found sending to the countries which taught her the art, examples of
this industry far superior to those her teachers ever furnished her.
[Illustration: THE "DERBY" OF 1889.]
NEW DEVELOPMENTS.
No. 13.
A strange fact is that the Civil War, so disastrous in its effect upon
the industries of Baltimore, was followed at its close by the rise of
a new enterprise, of manufacturing straw hats, which so increased and
extended that in number of establishments and volume of production it
soon outrivalled those of fur hats in their most prosperous time, thus
securing to this city a kindred business, greater in extent and
importance than the one which had, by force of circumstances, been
wrested from her. The good reputation which the products of the new
industry has acquired in every part of the country has contributed not
only to the prosperity of the city, but has assisted by adding credit
for the high standard of its manufactured goods.
In the year 1866 Mr. G. O. Wilson and Mr. Albert Sumner left their
homes in Foxboro, Mass., in search of a promising field for
establishing the business of renovating straw hats. Without any
definite place in view, one city after another was visited, Baltimore
being finally their chosen locality. Messrs. Wilson & Sumner
associated with them Mr. W. C. Perry, who also came from Foxboro, and
the firm was made Sumner & Perry, establishing themselves in the rear
of No. 71, now 10 West Lexington street.
Mr. Sumner withdrawing from the firm the same year, the two remaining
partners continued the business at the same place as the firm of
Wilson & Perry. At that time the retail price of straw hats was such
as to allow a profitable business to be done in renovating and
altering styles, and in that branch these persons met with success.
Previous to this, however, others had been engaged in the business of
bleaching and pressing straw hats. Among the first who entered into
the business, as far as can be learned, was the firm of Rosenswig,
Davidson & Ash, about the year 1848; they were cap manufacturers, and
added the pressing of Leghorn hats as an auxiliary business. Mr.
Samuel White, who learned his trade of the previously mentioned firm,
afterwards carried on hat bleaching and pressing in connection with
cap making, at No. 78 South Charles street (present No. 132). From
1850 to 1865 extensive importations of German straw hats came into
the port of Baltimore, and Mr. White did a large business in finishing
these goods. In 1857 Mr. White commenced the jobbing hat business,
forming in 1861 the firm of White, Rosenburg & Co., and is now in
business at No. 9 South Howard street, of the firm of S. White & Son.
Richard Hill, at present in the retail hat business at No. 5 South
Liberty street, was formerly engaged in hat bleaching and pressing at
the same locality.
Messrs. Wilson & Perry continued to prosper in their enterprise, and,
increasing their facilities, gradually developed it into straw goods
manufacturing, confining their business for several years almost
exclusively with two prominent Baltimore jobbing houses, who supplied
sufficient patronage for their constantly increasing production; one
of their patrons being Cole, Brigham & Co., the other Armstrong, Cator
& Co., one of the largest millinery firms in the country.
In 1877 Messrs. Wilson & Perry purchased the premises No. 101 West
Lexington street, now 104, where they secured more commodious
quarters, and, with an admirably equipped factory, continued to do a
large and prosperous business. Mr. Perry died in 1880. In July, 1887,
the firm title of Wilson & Perry was changed, Mr. Wilson associating
with M. Frank, J. D. Horner and A. Levering, formed the firm of Wilson,
Frank & Horner, and occupied the warehouse No. 204 West Baltimore
street, in connection with the factory on Lexington street.
In January, 1875, Isaac H. Francis and James E. Sumner, who had been
in the employ of Wilson & Perry, started the straw hat manufacturing
business at the N. W. corner of Lexington and Liberty streets, and in
the following year Wm. T. Brigham (then of the firm of Cole, Brigham &
Co.) became associated with them, the firm being made Francis, Sumner
& Co. In 1877 the firm of Cole, Brigham & Co. was dissolved, Mr.
Brigham becoming connected with R. D. Hopkins, as the firm of Brigham &
Hopkins, occupying the premises No. 128 West Fayette street (present
No. 211). In 1880 Mr. Hopkins was admitted as a partner in the firm of
Francis, Sumner & Co., and Messrs. Francis and Sumner became members
of the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, the interests of the two firms
having always, in fact, been identical since they were first
established. The two firms were continued until July, 1887, when, by
the withdrawal of Mr. Sumner, they were dissolved, and became
consolidated as the firm of Brigham, Hopkins & Co., now occupying the
large and spacious factory at the corner of German and Paca streets,
erected in 1884.
In the year 1880 Messrs. Francis, Sumner & Co. placed their interest
in their Lexington and Liberty street factory with Wm. Fales and Jas.
M. Hopkins, transferring their own entire business to the enlarged
premises at 128 W. Fayette street. Fales & Hopkins continued at the
corner of Lexington and Liberty streets until the fall of 1883, when
Mr. Hopkins, forced by declining health to give up business, sold his
interest to Mr. Louis Oudesluys, the firm becoming Fales & Oudesluys.
Mr. James M. Hopkins died of consumption at Colorado Springs,
February, 1884.
In 1885 S. C. Townsend and John W. Grace became associated with Messrs.
Fales & Oudesluys, and a new firm formed, as Fales, Oudesluys & Co.,
continuing for two years, when it was dissolved, Messrs. Townsend and
Grace remaining as the firm of Townsend, Grace & Co., at 128 W.
Fayette street, while Messrs. Fales and Oudesluys formed a new firm,
as Fales, Oudesluys & Co., locating at 115 S. Eutaw street. Mr. Fales
remained in the latter firm but a few months, when it was again
changed to that of Oudesluys Bros., comprised of Louis, Adrian and
Eugene Oudesluys, now doing business at 115 S. Eutaw street.
In 1878 Mr. M. S. Levy, who was then a cap maker, commenced the
finishing of straw hats, having the hats sewed by others, while he did
the finishing and trimming, his place of business being then at the
N. E. corner of Sharp and German streets.
With increasing trade, Mr. Levy removed in 1881 to more spacious
quarters at Nos. 318 and 320 W. Baltimore street (present numbers 216
and 218), where he commenced the general manufacture of straw hats. In
1883 he took his two sons into partnership, the firm being made M. S.
Levy & Sons; their premises being destroyed by fire in October, 1886,
they removed to 117 S. Sharp street. In September, 1888, being again
the victims of fire, they occupied temporarily the premises N. E. cor.
Paca and German streets, remaining there until taking possession of
their present extensive factory located at the N. W. cor. of Paca and
Lombard streets.
In 1880 Tomz, Richardson & Co. commenced in a small way to manufacture
straw hats at No. 341 W. Baltimore street (now 317), but, from lack of
business experience, soon abandoned the undertaking.
Messrs. Bateman & Richardson in 1882 embarked in the business,
occupying a portion of the premises No. 5 S. Liberty street. In 1883
Mr. Scutch was admitted as a partner, the firm becoming Bateman,
Richardson & Co., and, removing to No. 55 St. Paul street (now 313),
continued until 1885; not meeting with anticipated success, they gave
up the business.
Messrs. Francis O. Cole & Co. in 1882 commenced the manufacture of
straw goods, erecting for the purpose a building at Nos. 7 and 9
Saratoga street (now 424 E. Saratoga), continuing business until 1885,
when the firm was dissolved.
Mr R. Q. Taylor has long been engaged in the manufacture of Mackinaw
straw hats as a specialty. His acquaintance with and interest in this
product dates as far back as 1850, when he first used the Mackinaw for
his retail trade, since which, every season the "Mackinaw" has been
the prominent straw hat sent from his establishment, and for a period
of fifteen years was the _only_ article of straw hat retailed by him.
The successful control of a special style as an article of fashion for
thirty-five consecutive years is a remarkable record, an
accomplishment that plainly shows ability as a leader of fashion, for
which Mr. Taylor's natural capacity so well fits him.
Mr. Taylor confined the use of the "Mackinaw" hat strictly to his
retail demands until after the year 1868, since when he has
manufactured the article for the trade, distributing his products over
the entire country, and establishing for "Taylor's Mackinaws" a
national fame.
In addition to the manufacture of men's and boys' straw hats, which
class has heretofore comprised the larger proportion of such goods
made in Baltimore, another branch, that of ladies' straw goods, has
been developed, and is already assuming interesting proportions,
promising to become a valuable addition to this industry.
Messrs. Wolford & Shilburg in 1883 commenced the manufacture of
ladies' straw goods at No. 6 E. Pratt street, remaining at that place
for one year, removing in 1883 to No. 205 Camden street, where they
are now located.
In 1887, Messrs. L. W. Sumner, G. K. Thompson and D. Whitney, as the
firm of Sumner, Thompson & Whitney, commenced the manufacture of
ladies' and misses' straw goods, locating their factory at 317 N.
Howard street.
At the present time there are in Baltimore, apparently in prosperous
condition, eight straw hat establishments, giving employment to eleven
hundred hands, male and female, and producing annually, manufactured
goods to the value of upwards of a million dollars, in the
distribution of which Baltimore is brought into close business contact
with every State and Territory of the Union, and the city's importance
as a manufacturing centre is enhanced by the character of articles
sent forth by those engaged in this class of business.
GROWTH OF BUSINESS.
No. 14.
For many years the Mackinaw took precedence of all straw hats as the
most desirable summer article for gentlemen's headwear, far
out-rivalling in its success as a fashion any other straw product ever
introduced to the American people. Having attained this prominent
position mainly through its successful management by Baltimore
manufacturers, it forms an important factor in the prosperity of the
straw hat industry of Baltimore. In fact it is the actual foundation
of the present large and increasing straw goods business of the city
to-day.
While the Mackinaw hat had previously found favor with a few prominent
retailers, it was not until the year 1868 that Mr. W. T. Brigham, then
of the firm of Wm. R. Cole & Co., observing the merits of the article,
concluded to undertake its introduction to the trade, to whom it was
generally quite unknown. Among those who had used profitably the
Mackinaw for their retail trade were R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore,
Charles Oakford, W. F. Warburton and Louis Blaylock, of Philadelphia.
Though it was an article of domestic production, the beauty and
commendable qualities of the Mackinaw were indeed a surprising
revelation to the trade at large. Each year added to the popularity of
the Mackinaw, until it became the acceptable American straw hat,
without which no first-class retailer could consider his stock
complete. While the great demand existed, Baltimore continued to
supply the larger proportion of all the Mackinaw hats sold, and taking
advantage of the reputation thus gained for such goods, her
manufacturers produced other kinds of straw hats, and by the exercise
of proper care and attention acquired such skill as to secure for the
straw goods products of Baltimore the worthy reputation of being the
best made in the United States, consequently and beyond contradiction
the best in the world.
In the earliest days of straw hat making in Baltimore, at the time
when the Mackinaw was being introduced, the sewing of straw hats by
machine was a new invention, and practically a close monopoly
controlled by a strong combination of wealthy straw goods
manufacturers of the North, who, jointly as a stock company, prevented
the sale of the straw sewing machines outside their own circle.
Fortunately for the success of the new undertaking in Baltimore, the
good qualities of the Mackinaw hat were more satisfactorily retained
by hand sewing, rendering machines in their manufacture a useless
requirement.
Thus an advantage was gained in supplying a hand-sewed hat, embodying
such points of perfection in style and finish as to quite surprise
those not familiar with the manufacture of such goods. The "Mackinaw"
of Baltimore make continued to grow in popular favor until it had
secured a greater distribution than was ever before attained by any
other article of straw hat, making a remarkable record for tenacity,
by holding for upwards of fifteen successive years, popularity as the
leading article of summer headwear.
Baltimore continued to enlarge and increase her straw hat factories
and improve their products, so that now in this industry she stands in
the proud position of being the leading city in the United States in
the production of the best class of straw hats.
This, in brief, is a history of another branch of the hat business,
which attained large proportions, supplementing the one which, having
gained a degree of importance in the manufacturing history of the
city, was by force of circumstances reduced to comparative
insignificance.
The growth of the straw hat business of Baltimore may be looked upon
as somewhat phenomenal. The first introduction of the Mackinaw hat by
William R. Cole & Co., in 1867, may be taken as the beginning of
straw goods manufacturing, and with but a single manufacturing firm
existing in 1875, its development and increase dates from that time.
It is doubtful if in 1875 the total value of manufactured straw goods
produced in Baltimore reached the sum of $75,000, while in the face of
a steady and constant decline in values--the result of labor-saving
machines, together with reduced cost of raw material--an increase in
production of twenty-fold is an accomplishment of less than fifteen
years. This success cannot be attributed to any local advantages, but
is due entirely to the energy, enterprise and business qualifications
of those engaged in the business, qualifications which have
accomplished the result of giving valuable assistance in the city's
advancement as an important manufacturing centre. It has also, by the
recognized merits of its products, lent a worthy influence throughout
the whole United States in sustaining the excellent reputation long
enjoyed by Baltimore for the good quality and reliability of its
manufactured goods.
HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT.
No. 15.