his shop on Green, now Exeter street, Old Town. He changed his
business in the year 1824 to that of dealer in furs, for which
Baltimore in early days was a good market, the _catch_ of the trappers
of the Alleghanies and of the pioneers of the new West finding their
way to Baltimore, and the otter and muskrat of lower Maryland,
Virginia and North Carolina also coming in large quantities to this
market. The fur business of Baltimore was then of sufficient
importance for Jacob Astor to make Mr. Pearson his representative
agent. In latter years the firm became Joseph Pearson & Son, dealers
in hatters' furs and trimmings, at 260 Baltimore street. All the
members of this firm being dead, Edward Connolly, who was in their
employ, succeeded to the business, afterwards changing it to a general
hat-jobbing business, which is still conducted by Edward Connolly &
Son at 207 W. Baltimore street.
John Amos was a well known and respected hatter of Old Town, who
commenced business as early as the year 1809 at No. 39 Bridge street,
on the north side of the present North Gay street, between High and
Exeter. His "back shop," or factory, was on Hillen street. He
continued business during the period of thirty years at the same
place, and died in 1847 at the age of 67.
PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE.
No. 7.
Gleaning more closely in the historic field of the early part of the
century, others are found whose enterprise contributed largely to this
important industry of Baltimore, and whose successful prosecution of
the hat business maintained the credit and position won by their
predecessors.
In the year 1814 Runyon Harris erected a large hat factory on Fish,
now Saratoga street. This building was about one hundred and
twenty-five feet in length and two and a half stories high.
The business of this establishment was carried on under the style of
"The Baltimore Hat Manufacturing Co." While evidence cannot be given,
it may be inferred that Mr. Harris must, before this date, have been
engaged elsewhere in the city in the manufacture of hats, as others
entering into business about this time are known to have been
apprenticed to Mr. Harris.
[Illustration: Ye old Hat Factory of Runyon Harris Balto. Erected in
1814]
In 1817 Aaron Clap & Co. commenced the retail hat business at 146
Market street, on the north side, five doors east of St. Paul street,
and probably identical with the present 104 East Baltimore street,
recently occupied by John Murphy & Co., Publishers.
Messrs. Clap & Co. having secured a good location by purchasing the
factory of Runyon Harris, engaged extensively in the manufacturing
business, which was continued by their several successors down to the
year 1864, when results of the civil war (so disastrous to Maryland's
manufacturing industries) caused its temporary abandonment, but the
enterprise established by Messrs. Aaron Clap & Co. has, by an unbroken
series of firms, continued to the present time, being now represented
by Brigham, Hopkins & Co.
In 1817 Henry Lamson kept a first-class retail hat store at No. 5
South Calvert street, the locality now the southwest corner of Carroll
Hall building. In 1822 the firm of Aaron Clap & Co. and Henry Lamson
consolidated, making the firm Lamson & Clap, and continuing the retail
business at No. 5 South Calvert street, in connection with
manufactory. Mr. Lamson in 1827 went to the West Indies in search of
health, and died on the island of St. Thomas. He was a gentleman of
much social refinement, and was held in high esteem as a citizen.
In the year 1827 the firm of Lamson & Clap was dissolved by the death
of Mr. Lamson, and Mr. Wm. P. Cole was admitted, the firm becoming
Clap, Cole & Co. After the death of Mr. Clap, which occurred in 1834,
his widow's interest was retained and the firm was changed to Cole,
Clap & Co.; following this, Mrs. Clap retired and Mr. Hugh J. Morrison
became a member of the firm, which was made Cole & Morrison. In 1842
Thaddeus and William G. Craft became interested, the firm becoming
Cole, Craft & Co., still continuing business at No. 5 South Calvert
street (the same place established by Lamson & Clap). About the year
1850 the firm removed to No. 218 West Baltimore street, now 10 East
Baltimore street and occupied by Likes, Berwanger & Co., clothiers. In
1853 Mr. Cole associated with him his son, William R., the firm being
Wm. P. Cole & Son. In 1857 the firm moved to No. 274 West Baltimore
street, present number 46, where they remained until the year 1867,
removing then to occupy the building which they had erected at No. 30
Sharp street, now 24 Hopkins Place.
In 1861 Mr. Wm. T. Brigham was admitted to the firm, it then becoming
Wm. R. Cole & Co. In 1870 the firm name was again changed to Cole,
Brigham & Co., which was dissolved in 1877 by the withdrawal of Mr.
Brigham, in which year Mr. Brigham associated with Robert D. Hopkins
as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, locating at No. 128 West Fayette
street (present number 211), which firm of Brigham & Hopkins continued
until 1887, when it was changed to Brigham, Hopkins & Co. by the
admission of Isaac H. Francis.
In 1884 Brigham & Hopkins erected the large and handsome building at
the corner of German and Paca streets, which the present firm
continue to occupy as a factory and salesroom.
In 1810 Andrew Ruff is found at No. 72 Camden street, likely to have
been his place of residence. Whether he was then engaged in business
is not known, but in 1817 he had a factory on Davis street between
Lexington and Saratoga streets, the site now occupied by the stables
of the Adams Express Company. About the year 1822 he established a
retail store at 158 Baltimore street. In 1842 the firm was Andrew Ruff
& Co., at 194 Baltimore street. At one time Mr. Ruff was foreman in
the manufacturing establishment of Clap & Cole.
Henry Jenkins, in 1822, was a hat manufacturer at 28 Green street, Old
Town, and from 1824 to 1830 Messrs. H. & W. S. Jenkins kept a hat store
on the northeast corner of Baltimore and Calvert streets, where
afterwards was erected the banking-house of Josiah Lee & Co., now
occupied by the Pennsylvania Railroad Company as a ticket office.
Joseph Branson was a hatter in the year 1827 at 182 Market street. He
was a son of William Branson, who was engaged in the same business
from 1796 to 1817. Joseph Branson ranked as the fashionable hatter of
that time. He was a man of considerable military distinction in the
State. He raised and commanded the famous Marion Rifles, a superb
military organization of the city, to which was accorded the honor of
receiving General Lafayette upon his visit to Baltimore in 1824.
Mr. Branson is said to have been the first to introduce a thorough
system of military tactics in Baltimore. He served several terms in
the City Council, and was an active, enterprising citizen. In the year
1831 he went out of business and took the position of inspector in the
custom house.
Mr. Charles Grimes was a well-known hatter who commenced business at
42 Baltimore street about 1823. In 1831 he removed to No. 29 North
Gay, near High street. He evidently had a love for his first choice,
as in 1833 he is found again at 42 Baltimore street. Mr. Grimes
retired from business as early as the year 1839. He was extremely fond
of the Maryland sport of duck shooting, in which he was associated
with many of Baltimore's sporting gentlemen. In 1853 he removed to
Philadelphia, enjoying a life of comfort and ease. He was an exemplary
man in all the relations of life, and died in the year 1868 at the
advanced age of 73.
In 1810 John Petticord was learning his trade with Jacob Rogers, being
then fourteen years of age. His honesty and faithfulness were
appreciated by his employer, and in 1814 he occupied the position of
foreman in Mr. Rogers' factory. After continuing in that capacity for
some time he commenced the manufacture of hats on his own account,
continuing it until the feebleness of age compelled him to abandon it.
Thomas Sappington was a hat manufacturer who, in the year 1831, was
located at No. 120 Baltimore street, which at that time was at or near
the present number, 116 East Baltimore street. He had his factory on
North street near Saratoga. It is known that he was in business for a
number of years, but what year he commenced and when he abandoned
business cannot be ascertained.
Victor Sarata was a Frenchman who located in Baltimore as early as
1838. He opened a retail store at 259 Baltimore street, and was the
first one to introduce the silk hat in this city.
Wm. H. Keevil was a hatter doing a retail business in 1842 at 66-1/2
Baltimore street. He was evidently of the "buncombe" style, and
conducted his business in a sensational manner, advertising
extensively and brazenly, as will be seen from the following quotation
from an advertisement of his printed in 1842:
"Who talks of importing hats from England while _Keevil_ is in the
field? Pshaw! 'Tis sheer folly. For while he continues to sell his
beautiful hats at his present reduced prices, any such speculation as
importing hats from Europe will be 'no go' or 'non-effect.' The
hatters, therefore, on the other side of the Atlantic had better keep
their hats at home, as it would be quite as profitable for them to
send 'wooden nutmegs' and 'sawdust hams' to New England, or coals to
Newcastle, as hats to Baltimore to compete with the well-known
_Keevil_."
His business existence could not have been of long continuance, as in
1850 his name is not found in the City Directory.
At the close of the first half of this century there were several who
afterwards attained prominence both in business and a public capacity,
among whom were Joshua Vansant, Samuel Hindes, Charles Towson, George
K. Quail, James L. McPhail, P. E. Riley, John Boston, Ephraim Price,
Robert Q. Taylor, Lewis Raymo and others, the last two mentioned being
the only ones now living.
JACOB ROGERS.
No. 8.
To one man more than any other belongs the credit of establishing upon
an extensive scale the hat business, which in the early part of the
present century was so prominently identified with the growth and
prosperity of Baltimore; that person was Jacob Rogers, whose business
career in his native city extended over a period of more than fifty
years, fortified by a reputation that brought the universal respect of
his fellow-citizens, and leaving a worthy example for those succeeding
him.
Jacob Rogers was born in the year 1766. As in those days boys were
apprenticed at an early age, it may be supposed that when he was
fifteen years old he was in the employ of David Shields, with whom it
is known he served his term of apprenticeship at hat-making. In 1796
Mr. Rogers is found the proprietor of a retail hat store at the corner
of South and Second streets. He was an enterprising man, and succeeded
in building up a business of large proportions. He died in 1842,
possessed of a fortune amounting to three hundred thousand dollars, a
large accumulation for those days. In 1805 he built an extensive
factory on Second street, near Tripolet's alley--now Post-Office
avenue--and adjoining the old Lutheran Church, the spire of which then
contained the Town Clock; these old landmarks are now all removed and
the location occupied by the stately edifice of the Corn and Flour
Exchange. The number of hands employed by Mr. Rogers at his factory
and "front shop" was about one hundred, including apprentices. His
"plank" shop comprised five batteries, aggregating thirty men; in the
finishing shop he employed about twenty-five, and he had usually bound
to him as many as fifteen apprentices. This would appear to be a large
force for a hat-manufacturing concern of that early period, but it
must be remembered that the manual labor bestowed upon one hat then
was more than that on some thousands in the present day of
labor-saving machinery.
That Mr. Rogers was a strict disciplinarian and an excellent business
man is proven by the perfect control he exercised over the large
number in his employ, whom he ruled with a firm hand yet with a wise
judgment, and while rebuking any disobedience of orders, was feared,
respected and loved for his strict sense of honor, justice and
propriety.
He boarded under his own roof nearly all his apprentices to the trade;
a few were privileged to lodge at home, while their board was
supplied by their master, as one of the stipulations of their
indenture; so Jacob Rogers' immediate family, which was not a small
one, was greatly enlarged by the addition of fifteen to twenty wild,
untamed "prentice" boys. What would have been the domestic condition
of such a family without the ruling influence of a stern master only
those can imagine who know the kind of material of which the
journeyman hatter of those days was composed. He was a veritable
tramp.
As a rule with Mr. Rogers, chastisement immediately followed
misconduct; with him the present was the opportune time for
punishment, and whether in the home, the shop, or on the street, any
of the shop-boys were found doing wrong, correction was given in the
then customary way--by flogging.
Mr. Rogers was a conscientious member of the Methodist Church, and
maintained a high character for honesty and probity, and recognized as
a fair man in all his dealings.
A good story is told to show how, though driving a keen bargain, he
was careful not to misrepresent. In his store one day he was divulging
to a friend some of the secrets of his business, showing how
successfully a _prime_ beaver-napped hat could be made with the
slightest sprinkling of the valuable beaver fur, a trick just then
discovered. Soon after a purchaser appeared inquiring for a
beaver-napped hat. Mr. Rogers expatiated upon the marvelous beauty of
the "tile," and his customer put the question: "Mr. Rogers, is this a
genuine beaver hat?" "My dear sir," said Mr. Rogers, "I pledge my word
that the best part of the material in that hat is pure beaver." The
hat was bought and paid for and the customer departed, well satisfied
with his purchase. At once Mr. Rogers was catechised by his friend,
who had earnestly watched the trade, remarking: "Why, Mr. Rogers, did
you not tell me that there was but a trifling amount of beaver in that
hat you just sold, and you, a church member, so misrepresent
to a customer?" "My friend," replied Mr. Rogers, "I made no
misrepresentation, I told my customer the honest fact, that the _best_
part of the material of which the hat was made was pure beaver, and so
it was."
The journeyman hatter of Mr. Rogers' time was a character, migratory
in his ways, his general habit being to work for a short time--a
season or less in one place--then, from desire of change or lack of
employment, to seek for pastures new. As railroad travel was not then
thought of, and stage-coach conveyance a luxury at most times beyond
the pecuniary means of the itinerant hatter, the journey was usually
made on foot.
Application for work could not be made to the proprietor, but must
necessarily go through the medium of an employee. Frequently an
applicant in straitened circumstances who failed to be "shopped,"
appealed to his more fortunate fellow-workmen to relieve his destitute
condition, who always made a ready and hearty response by providing
for his immediate wants and starting him again on his pilgrimage with
a light heart and a wish for good luck. This constant wandering habit
frequently brought the hatter of those days to a condition of abject
dependence, and supplied a large proportion of that vagrant class now
denominated "tramps." It was often the boast of these hatter "tramps"
that in the period of a year or two they would make the tour of the
entire country from Portland, Maine, to Baltimore in the South, and
Pittsburg, then "far west," "shopping" awhile in some town or village
and then marching on in search of another chance.
[Illustration: Hat Store of Jacob Rogers.]
In the "season" when labor was in demand good workmen did not apply in
vain, but most hat factories were subject to dull times between
seasons, necessitating a reduction in the number of hands. This
general plan was productive of irregularity in the habits of the
workman, allowing him to have no settled place of habitation.
Baltimore, however, was an exception to the general rule, her
factories providing constant employment for her workmen, thus
encouraging a deeper interest in their vocation.
It is said that in business Mr. Rogers never knew what dull times
were; he kept his hat factory in active operation all the year round.
This prosperous condition of things had the tendency to make the
Baltimore hatter somewhat of a permanent settler, thereby identifying
him more closely with the interests and the growth of his own city,
and causing him to become personally concerned in its success and
prosperity; an experience quite different from that of his
fellow-workmen elsewhere, who were constantly changing their
habitation. Thus the Baltimore hatter was reared under conditions
favorable to his improvement by serving his apprentice days under the
influence of a conscientious master. The effect of this early training
was manifest in his character as a good citizen ever after, often
securing for him in the place of his birth positions of trust, and
many of Baltimore's best citizens, and some of her noblest men,
received their early training in the model hat-shops of their own
city.
With the growing trade of the city, the business of hat-making kept
steady pace. The prosperity of the South, and the constant development
of the West, provided Baltimore with a wide outlet for her products.
Through the business channels of this young and enterprising city
flowed a large proportion of the products of the mills and factories
of New England, assisting materially the business activity of the
place, and it is quite likely that the interests of Baltimore and New
England at that time being so connected is an explanation why so many
New England people migrated to Baltimore in those days of her
prosperity.
With characteristic energy and enterprise, Mr. Rogers extended his
business, pushing forward into new fields as the settlement of the
country advanced. Besides a large trade with the entire South, the
wagon-trains, which were the expresses of those days, distributed his
goods throughout the States of Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky and Tennessee,
thus securing to him at that time the most extensive business in hat
manufacture conducted by any one firm in the United States.
Fortune favored Mr. Rogers, and during his whole business career there
was no interruption in the progress of this industry in Baltimore. Not
until his death, or after the middle of the century, was there any
noticeable decline.
The eventful business career and commendable private life of Mr.
Rogers ended on the 10th of April, 1842, he falling suddenly in the
old Light-street Methodist Church while attending divine service. The
Baltimore _Sun_ of April 11, 1842, mentioned his death as follows:
"The illness of Jacob Rogers, Esq., occurred in Light-street Church;
he fell in a faint from which he died an hour after at his residence,
No. 9 South street. He was well known and respected as one of the most
worthy, industrious, and valuable of our citizens of Baltimore."
[Illustration: WESTERN EXPRESS, 1825.]
OLD METHODS.
No. 9.
Just as the first half of the present century was expiring, an
invention was made that at once revolutionized the whole system of
hat-making. A machine was patented in the United States by H. A. Wells,
in the year 1846, which successfully accomplished the work of making
or forming a hat in a very short space of time, which heretofore had
required the slow, tedious and skillful labor of the hands, thus so
equally dividing the century that the first half may be practically
considered as following the _old_ method, and the latter half as using
the _new_ method.
So remarkable was this invention that its introduction quickly
produced a change in the character of hats by greatly reducing their
cost of manufacture, together with a change in the manner of
conducting the hat business. To show up the _old_ method of
hat-making that existed prior to the use of the Wells machine is the
purpose of this chapter, the greater part of the information here
given having been gained from an article in "Sears' Guide to
Knowledge," published in 1844.
Let us enter a Baltimore hat "shop" of fifty years ago and watch the
making of a single hat. Fur and wool constitute the main ingredients
of which hats have always been made, because possessing those
qualities necessary for the process of "felting," the finer and better
class of hats being made of the furs of such animals as the beaver,
bear, marten, minx, hare and rabbit. The skins of these animals after
being stripped from the body are called "pelts"; when the inner side
has undergone a process of tanning the skins obtain the name of "furs"
in a restricted sense, and the term is still more restricted when
applied to the hairy coating cut from the skin.
The furs to which the old-time hatter gave preference were the beaver,
the muskrat, the nutria, the hare and the rabbit, of which the first
was by far the most valuable. These animals all have two kinds of hair
on their skins, the innermost of which is short and fine as down, the
outermost, thick, long and more sparing, the former being of much use,
the latter of no value to the hatter. After receiving the "skins" or
"pelts," which are greasy and dirty, they are first cleaned with soap
and water, then carried to the "pulling-room," where women are
employed in pulling out the coarse outer hairs from the skins, which
is done by means of a knife acting against the thumb, the fingers and
thumb being guarded by a short leather shield. The skins are then
taken and the fur cut or "cropped" from them, which is done by men
dexterously using a sharp knife, formed with a round blade, such as is
used now-a-days in the kitchen as a "chopping knife." By keeping this
knife constantly moving across the skin the fur is taken off or
separated without injury to the skin, which is to be tanned for
leather or consigned to the glue factory. The cutting of furs,
however, had become before 1844 a business in some measure conducted
by itself, and a machine had been invented to separate the fur from
the skin, which, though it might be considered now a simple affair,
was at that time looked upon as a wonder.
[Illustration: FUR-CUTTING MACHINE.]