THE UPPER PROVINCES.

It is impossible for an English gentleman to take his departure from

the house of a native of India without giving a number of testimonials,

in the shape of "letters of recommendation" addressed to no one in

particular. Nena Sahib had a book containing the autographs of at

least a hundred and fifty gentlemen and ladies, who had testified in

writing to the attention and kindness they had received at the hands

of the Maharajah during their stay at Bhitoor. Having expressed my

satisfaction as emphatically as possible in this book, the khansamah

(house steward) demanded a certificate, which I gave him. Then came

the bearer, the men who guarded my door, the coachman, the grooms,

the sweeper. For each and all of these I had to write characters,

and recommend them to such of my friends as they might encounter by

accident or otherwise. It is a fearful infliction, this character

writing; but every one is compelled to go through it.

I was now on my road to Agra, to pay a visit to a schoolfellow, who was

then in the civil service, and filling an appointment in the station.

It was in the month of September that I made the journey--the most

unhealthy season of the year. Opposite to the first dâk bungalow, some

twelve miles from the station of Cawnpore, I was stopped by a set of

twelve palkee bearers, who informed me that a Sahib whom they were

taking to Allyghur had been seized with cholera, and was dying in the

bungalow. I hastened to the room and there found, stretched upon the

couch, a young officer of about nineteen years of age.

His face was ashy pale, and a profuse cold perspiration stood upon his

forehead. His hands and feet were like ice, and he was in very great

pain. The only person near him was the sweeper, who kept on assuring

me that the youth would die. As for the youth himself he was past

speech, and I was disposed to think with the sweeper, that he was

beyond cure. I administered, however, nearly a teaspoonful of laudanum

in a wine-glass half-full of raw brandy, and then took a seat near

the patient, in order to witness the effect. Ere long the severe pain

was allayed, and the youth fell into a profound sleep, from which, I

began to fear, he would never awake. To have administered a smaller

dose at that stage of the disease would have been useless, for the

body was on the very verge of collapse. Nevertheless, I began to feel

the awkwardness of the responsibility which I had taken upon myself.

Presently a palanquin carriage, propelled by bearers, came to the

bungalow. An elderly lady and gentleman alighted, and were shown into

a little room which happened to be vacant [A dâk bungalow has only two

little rooms.] To my great joy I discovered that the new arrival was a

doctor of a regiment, who, with his wife, was journeying to Calcutta. I

was not long in "calling in" the doctor; and I had the satisfaction of

hearing him pronounce an opinion that the young ensign was "all right,"

and that the dose I had administered had been the means of saving his

life. How readily, to be sure, do people in India accommodate each

other. Although the doctor and his wife were hurrying down the country,

and albeit the youth was pronounced out of danger, they remained with

me until the following afternoon; when, having dined, we all took our

departure together--the youth and I travelling northward, the doctor

and his wife in the opposite direction.

The night was pitchy dark; but the glare from the torches rendered

every object near to us distinctly visible. The light, shining

on the black faces of the palkee bearers, they appeared like so

many demons--but very merry demons; for they chatted and laughed

incessantly, until I commanded them to be silent, in order that, while

we moved along the road, I might listen to the ensign's story, which he

told me in the most artless manner imaginable.

"I have only been six weeks in India," he began, "and at present only

know a few words of the language. How I came into the Bengal army

was this. My father was in the civil service of the Company, in the

Madras Presidency; and, after twenty-one years' service, retired on his

pension of one thousand pounds a year, and his savings, which amounted

to twenty thousand pounds, and which were invested in five per cent.

government securities, so that his income was two thousand a year.

We lived during the winter near Grosvenor-square: a house of which

my father bought the lease for twenty years, and the summer we used

to spend at a little place in Berkshire which he had bought. It was

only a good sized cottage, and the land about it did not exceed three

acres. But it was a perfect gem of a residence, and quite large enough

for our family, which consisted of my father and mother, myself, and a

sister who is a year and a half older than I am. I was at Harrow. My

father intended that I should go to Oxford, and eventually be called

to the bar. My sister had a governess, a very clever and accomplished

girl, and the most amiable creature that ever lived. We were not an

extravagant family, and saw very little company; but we had every

comfort that a reasonable heart could desire, and I fancy that we lived

up to the two thousand pounds a year. You see the education of myself

and my sister was a heavy item. The governess had a hundred pounds a

year, and then there was a singing-master and a drawing master. About

two years ago my father died, and my mother became almost imbecile from

the excess of her grief. She lost her memory; and, for days together,

knew not what she was doing. Under my father's will she was entitled

to all that he died possessed of, and was appointed his sole executrix.

The house in South-street was given up, the unexpired portion of the

lease disposed of, and the little place in Berkshire became our only

home. My father's pension of course expired when he died, and we, the

family, had now to live on the interest of the government securities.

My mother, who was as ignorant as a child on all matters of business,

was recommended to sell her government securities, and invest the

proceeds in a joint-stock bank which was paying, and for more than a

year did pay, eight per cent. But, alas, one wretched day the bank

failed, and we were reduced suddenly from comparative affluence to

poverty. The cottage, furniture, and all that my mother possessed, was

seized, and sold. This happened only two years ago. Fortunately for

me, my school education was pretty well completed; but of course the

idea of my going to Oxford, and subsequently to the bar, was at once

abandoned. My sister was obliged to take a situation as governess, in

the family of a director of the East India Company: and through that

gentleman's influence I obtained an ensigncy in the Native Infantry.

The loss of her fortune, the parting with my sister (who is now on

the Continent with the director's family) and myself, had such an

effect upon my mother, that it was deemed necessary to place her in an

asylum; where at all events she will be taken care of and treated with

kindness. But I have my plans!" exclaimed the young man, who had just

escaped the jaws of death. "In ten years I will save enough to take me

home to them; for, if I study hard--and I will do so--I may get a staff

appointment, and----"

Here the bearers of my palkee informed me that two other travellers

were coming down the road. They saw the light in the distance, more

than a mile off, and they--the bearers--began to talk loudly and argue,

that it was impossible for me to hear what the ensign was saying,

and all attempts to silence them were vain. They were discussing,

as they carried us along, whether they would exchange burdens with

the down-coming bearers, insomuch as they were nearly midway between

the stages. This is very often done by arrangement between them, and

thus, in such cases, they get back more speedily to their homes. It

was decided that the exchange should take place, if the other party

were agreeable; for, on the down-coming travellers nearing us, the

bearers of us--the up-going travellers--called a halt. Forthwith the

four palkees were gently lowered till they rested on the ground. And

now the chattering of the bearers became something awful. A native

of Hindostan can settle nothing without a noise; and, as each palkee

had twelve men attached to it besides the torch-bearers and those who

carried our boxes, the number of voices, whooping, shouting, asserting,

contradicting, scolding, and soothing, exceeded sixty. I and my

companion, the ensign, shout to them to "go on!" At length I got out of

my palkee in a rage, and not only screamed at, but shook several of the

black disputants. Whilst thus engaged, the doors of one of the downward

palkees were opened, and a voice--that of a lady--thus greeted me, very

good humouredly.

"My good sir, depend upon it that you are retarding your own progress,

and ours, by attempting, so violently, to accelerate it. Pray let them

settle their little affair amongst themselves."

"I believe you are quite right," I replied.

"Have you any idea of the hour?" she asked.

"Yes. It is about a quarter to twelve," said I.

"I have lost the key of my watch; perhaps the key of yours would fit

it."

I hastened to my palkee, brought forth from beneath the pillow my watch

and chain; and, taking them to the door of the lady's palkee, presented

them through the opening.

"Thanks," said the lady, after winding up her watch, "thanks. It does

very well," and she returned the watch and chain. I saw, by the light

of the torch, not only her hand--which was very small and pretty--but

her face, which was more bewitching still, being lovely and young.

"Is there anything else you require?" I asked.

"Nothing. Unless you happen to have with you some fresh bread. My

children, who are asleep in the other palkee, are tired of biscuits,

and I imagine we shall not reach Cawnpore before mid-day to-morrow."

It happened that I had a loaf in my palkee, and, with all the pleasure

of which the heart of man is capable, placed it in the hands of the

fair traveller. On this occasion she opened the doors of her palkee

sufficiently wide to admit of my having a really good gaze at her

beautiful features. She was enveloped in a white dressing-gown, and

wore a hood made of black silk, and lined with pink. Her hair was

brushed back off the forehead; but the long dark tresses came from

behind the ears, and rested on her covered shoulders.

"Are you going to Agra?" she inquired.

"Yes," I replied.

"Perhaps you would be good enough to return two books for me to the

wife of the assistant magistrate. They will, no doubt, afford you as

much amusement on your journey as they have afforded me. I finished

them this afternoon, and they are now an encumbrance." With these words

she handed me the volumes, which I faithfully promised to return. By

this time the bearers had settled their affair, and were ready to

lift the palkees. I bade the fair traveller "good night, and a safe

journey." We shook hands.

The reader may ask, "Who was your friend?" I did not know at the time.

It was not until I had arrived at Agra that I was informed on this

head. The books which she entrusted to my care I had not read; and,

after parting with the ensign at the dâk bungalow at Bewah, they were,

indeed, most agreeable companions. I have mentioned this little episode

in my journey, not because there is anything in it worth recording, or

because there is anything romantic therewith connected; but simply to

show how readily we (Christians) in India obliged one another, albeit

utter strangers, and how gladly we assist each other, whenever and

wherever we meet. Such an episode in the journey of a traveller in

India is one of its most commonplace incidents.

Since the news of the recent deplorable disasters has reached this

country, many persons have expressed their surprise that a lady should

be suffered to travel alone with her children, or be accompanied by no

more than one female servant. The fact is, or rather was, that, on any

dangerous road, a lady utterly unprotected was safer than a gentleman.

The sex was actually its own protection. During my stay in India, I

knew of at least a score of instances in which officers and civilians

were stopped upon the roads, plundered, assaulted, and in one or two

cases murdered, in the Upper Provinces; but I can only bring to mind

two instances of European ladies having been molested. This is not

to be attributed to any ideas of gallantry or chivalry on the part

of marauders in the East; but simply to the fact that they knew the

perpetrators of an offence committed against a lady would be hunted

down to the death, while the sympathies entertained for the sufferings

of a Sahib would be only those of an ordinary character, and soon

"blow over." Even the palkee-bearers knew the amount of responsibility

that attached to them, when they bore away, from station to station, a

female burden; and, had the lady traveller been annoyed or interrupted

by an European traveller, they would have attacked and beaten him, even

to the breaking of his bones and the danger of his life, had he not

desisted when commanded by the lady to do so. This has happened more

than once in the Upper Provinces of India.

In December, eighteen hundred and forty-nine, the road between

Saharumpore and Umballah was infested by a gang of thieves. Several

officers had been stopped, robbed, and plundered of their money and

valuables. I had been invited to Lahore, to witness the installation

of Sir Walter Gilbert and Sir Henry Elliot as Knights Commanders of

the Bath. The danger, near a place called Juggadree, was pointed out

to me by a mail contractor, who, finding me determined to proceed,

recommended me to dress as a lady for a couple of stages. I did so. I

borrowed a gown, a shawl, and a nightcap; and, when I came near the

dangerous locality, I put them on, and commanded the bearers to say

I was a "mem-Sahib," in the event of the palkee being stopped. Sure

enough, the palkee was stopped, near Juggadree, by a gang of ten or

twelve armed men, one of whom opened the door to satisfy himself of the

truth of the statement made by the bearers. The moment the ruffian

saw my nightcap--a very prettily-frilled one it was, lent to me by a

very pretty woman--likewise a small bolster, which, beneath my shawl,

represented a sleeping baby, he closed the door, and requested the

bearers to take up the palkee, and proceed; ay, and what was more, he

enjoined them to be "careful of the mem-Sahib!"

I have incidentally spoken of the installation of Sir Walter Gilbert

and Sir Henry Elliot, in December, eighteen hundred and forty-nine.

Eight years have not yet elapsed, and how many of the principal

characters in that magnificent spectacle have departed hence! Sir

Walter is dead; Sir Henry is dead. Sir Charles Napier and Sir Dudley

Hill, who led them up to Lord Dalhousie, are dead. Colonel Mountain,

who carried the cushion on which was placed the insignia of the order

is dead. And Sir Henry Lawrence is dead; and poor Stuart Beatson. Alas!

how many of that gay throng, men and women, husbands, fathers, wives,

and daughters, who had assembled to witness the ceremony, have perished

during the recent revolt in the Upper Provinces of India! Those who

were present on that sixth of December eighteen hundred and forty-nine,

and who, in eighteen hundred and fifty-seven, quietly reflect on what

has occurred since, will scarcely believe in their own existence. It

must appear to them--as it often appears to me--as a dream; a dream

in which we saw Sir Charles Napier, with his spare form, his eagle

eyes, his aquiline nose, and long grey beard, joking Sir Dudley Hill

on his corpulence and baldness, and asking him what sort of figure he

would cut now, in leading a forlorn hope? and Sir Dudley, proudly and

loudly replying, that he felt a better man than ever. Presently, a meek

civilian, in a white neckcloth, and ignorant of Sir Dudley's early

deeds, was so unfortunate as to put the question:--

"_Did_ you ever lead a forlorn hope, Sir Dudley?" a query which induced

Sir Dudley Hill to groan, previously to exclaiming--

"Such is fame! A forlorn hope, my dear sir! I have led fifty!"

This was, of course, an exaggeration; but I believe that Sir Dudley

Hill had, in the Peninsular War, led more forlorn hopes than any other

officer in the British army.

I have wandered away from the high road to Agra, and must return to

it. I parted with the ensign at Bewah, and commenced reading the books

which the then unknown lady had entrusted to my care. The day, towards

noon, became hot, damp, and extremely oppressive; and there was no dâk

bungalow, or other abode, within nine miles of me. Before long, I heard

thunder in the distance, and presently the bearers communicated to me

that a heavy storm was approaching, and that, in order to escape its

fury, they wished to halt at a village just a-head of us. I consented,

and was now hurried along the road at the rate of five miles an hour.

My palkee was placed beneath a shed, and the bearers congregated around

it. One of the number lighted his pipe (hubble-bubble), and passed it

to his neighbour; who, after three whiffs, passed it to the next; who,

after three whiffs, sent it on, until each had partaken of the smoke.

The little village, which was a short distance from the road, contained

about sixty or seventy inhabitants, and about double that number of

children of various ages. My presence excited no small degree of

curiosity, and the whole of the villagers approached the shed, to have

a look at me. The men and women, of course, were not alarmed, and

looked on simply with that stupidity which is characteristic of the

cultivators of the soil in the Upper Provinces of India. But it was

otherwise with the more youthful, the children. They held aloof, and

peeped from behind their parents, as if I had been some dangerous wild

animal. My bearers wished to drive them all away; but I forbade this,

partly because I had no desire to deprive the villagers of whatever

pleasure a long inspection of me might afford them, and partly because

I wished to sketch the group and listen to their remarks, which were

chiefly of a personal character, and for the most part complimentary,

or intended so to be.

A vivid flash of lightning, and an awfully loud clap of thunder,

accompanied by a few large drops of rain, speedily dispersed the crowd,

and I was left to myself and my bearers, who now huddled themselves

together for warmth's sake. The air had become chilly, and even I was

compelled to wrap my cloak and my blanket about my thinly-clad limbs.

Another vivid flash of lightning, and another awful clap of thunder;

then down came such hailstones as I had never seen before, and have

never seen since in the plains of Hindostan. In size and weight they

equalled those which sometimes fall in the Himalaya mountains in June

and July. With these storms the rains usually "break up," and then the

cold weather sets in, and with this season of the year, what climate

in the world is superior to that of the Upper Provinces of India? When

the thunder, lightning, and hail had ceased, and their continuance did

not exceed fifteen minutes, the sun came out, and the face of heaven

was as fair as possible, but the earth gave evidence of the severity

of the storm. Not only was the ground covered with leaves and small

branches, intermingled with the hail, but cattle and goats had been

killed by the furious pelting of the huge stones; whilst the electric

fluid had descended on one of the mud huts of the village in which I

had taken refuge, and had stretched out in death an old man and two

of his grandchildren, a boy of six years of age, and a girl of four.

The parents of these children were absent from the village, and were

not expected to return until the evening. On being informed of the

accident, I expressed a desire to see the bodies, and was conducted

by several of the villagers to the hut in which they were lying. I

recognised at once the features of the old man who was a prominent

figure in my sketch, and of one of the children, the little girl

who held the old man so tightly by the hand while she peeped at me.

The face of the boy had not struck me. There they were lying dead,

but still warm, and their limbs, as yet, devoid of rigidity. The

matter-of-fact way in which the natives of India regard the death of

their relations or friends is something wonderful to behold. It is not

that their affections are less strong than ours, or their feelings less

acute. It is that fatality is the beginning and end of their creed.

They are taught from their childhood to regard visitations of this

character as direct and special acts of God--as matters which it is

not only futile, but improper to bewail. None of the villagers--men,

women, or children, exhibited any token of grief while gazing on the

lifeless bodies they surrounded. And, on asking my bearers whether the

parents of the children would weep when they returned, and found their

offspring thus suddenly cut off, they replied, rather abruptly, "Why

should they weep at God's will?"

As I was preparing to leave the village, a middle-aged woman came up to

me, and said:--

"Sahib, the parents of the dead children are very poor, and the expense

of burning their remains will press very hard upon them. The wood

for the old man will cost eight annas, and the fuel for each of the

children four annas; in all, one rupee."

I placed the coin in the woman's hand, and left, besides, a donation

for the bereaved parents who were absent; having previously called

several of the villagers to witness the proceeding. This I did at the

suggestion of the palkee bearers, who entertained some doubts of the

woman's honesty. We had not proceeded far, when I descried a small

encampment beneath a clump of mango trees. It consisted of an officer's

tent, and two long tents for native soldiers--Sepoys. One of these long

tents was for the Hindoos, the other for the Mussulmans. When we came

opposite to the encampment, I desired the bearers to stop, and to put

some questions to a Sepoy who was standing near the road. I gleaned

from him that the encampment was that of "a treasure party," consisting

of a Lieutenant, and a company of native infantry, proceeding from

Mynpoorie to Agra.

"Won't you go and see the Sahib?" asked the Sepoy.

"I don't know him," said I.

"That does not signify," said the Sepoy. "Our Sahib is glad to see

everybody. He is the most light-hearted man in Hindostan. His lips are

the home of laughter, and his presence awakens happiness in the breast

of the most sorrowful. His body is small, but his mind is great; and,

in his eyes, the Hindoo, the Mussulman, and the Christian, are all

equal."

This description, I confess, aroused my curiosity to see so

philosophical a Lieutenant, and it was not long before my curiosity was

gratified; for he made his appearance at the door of his tent; and,

observing my palkee, bore down upon it.

The Lieutenant wore a pair of white pyjamahs, which were tucked up to

his knees, no shoes or stockings; a blue shirt, no coat, no jacket;

a black necktie, and a leather helmet with a white covering, such as

one sees labelled in the shop-windows "for India." His person was very

small certainly, and the calves of his legs not bigger than those of

a boy of twelve years of age. In his mouth he had a huge (number one)

cheroot, and in his hand, a walking-stick, with a waist nearly as big

as his own. Resting his chest upon this walking-stick, and looking me

full in the face, perfectly ignorant, and seemingly indifferent, as to

whether I might be a secretary to the government, or a shopkeeper, he

thus familiarly accosted me:--

"Well, old boy, how do you feel after the shower?"

"Very well, I thank you."

"Come in and have a cup of tea, and a round of toast, if you are not in

a hurry to get on. It will set you up, and make you feel comfortable

for the night." This offer was so tempting, and so cordially made, that

I was induced to accept it.

"Bring the Sahib into my tent, in the palkee," said Lieutenant Sixtie

to my bearers; and then addressing me, he remarked--"Don't get out.

You'll wet your slippers."

The bearers followed the Lieutenant, and put down my palkee upon two

tiers of small boxes, which were spread over the space of ground

covered by the tent.

"I was obliged to resort to this box dodge," said my host, "or I should

have been drowned. I wish I owned only a quarter of this rhino we are

treading on. If I did, catch me at this work any longer, my masters!"

It was the treasure that the boxes contained, in all about twenty-five

thousand pounds. "Look here, old boy. Forego, like a good fellow, the

tea and the toast. My servants will have such a bother to get a fire

and boil water. Have some biscuits and cold brandy-and-water instead.

You should never drink tea while travelling. It keeps you awake; and,

what is more, it spoils the flavour of your cheroots. By the bye, have

one of these weeds."

I thanked my host; and, without any sort of pressing, yielded to his

every wish--even unto playing _écarté_ with him, while smoking his

cheroots and drinking his brandy-and-water. The stakes were not very

high. Only a rupee a game. During the deals, my host would frequently

exclaim:

"By Jove! what a godsend it is to have some one to talk to for a few

hours! I have been out for five days; and, during that time, have not

uttered a word in my own language. Haven't had the luck to come across

a soul. This escorting treasure is the most awful part of an officer's

duty, especially at this season of the year."

"But it must be done," I suggested.

"Yes. But why not by native officers?"

"Would the treasure be safe with them?"

"Safe? Just as safe as it is now, if not safer; for, although I am

responsible for the money in these boxes, I don't know that the whole

amount is here. I didn't count it; and, if there was any deficiency,

I should say so. Now, a native officer would satisfy himself on the

subject before he took charge. Don't you see?"

Here our conversation was interrupted by a havildar (native sergeant),

who appeared at the door of the tent, saluted the Lieutenant, and

uttered in a deep and solemn tone of voice the word Sa-hib!

"Well. What's the matter?" said the Lieutenant.

"Maun Singh Sipahee is very ill."

"What ails him?"

"He has fever."

"Then I will come and see him in one moment." With these words the

Lieutenant threw down his cards, and invited me to accompany him to the

tent wherein the patient was lying.

Maun Singh Sipahee was a powerful Brahmin, who stood upwards of six

feet two. He was a native of Oude, and had a very dark skin. When

we entered the tent, he attempted to rise from the charpai (native

bedstead) on which he was reclining; but the Lieutenant told him to be

still, then felt the sick man's pulse, and placed his small white hand

across the broad black forehead of the soldier.

"Carry him into my tent. The ground is too damp for him here," said

the Lieutenant; and forthwith the bedstead was raised by half-a-dozen

of the man's comrades. In the tent medicine was administered--a small

quantity of tartar emetic dissolved in water, and given in very small

doses, until nausea was produced, and a gentle perspiration stood upon

the skin of the patient.

"You are all right, now, Maun Singh," said the Lieutenant.

"No, Sahib, I am dying. Nothing can save me."

"Then you know better than I do?"

"Forgive me, Sahib."

"Listen. Lie very quiet; and, before we march, I will give you another

sort of medicine that will set you up."

The Sepoy covered his head over with his resaiee (counterpane), and lay

as still as possible.

"They always fancy they are going to die, if there is anything the

matter with them," said the Lieutenant to me. "I have cured hundreds of

fever cases by this treatment. The only medicines I ever use in fever,

sir, are tartar emetic and quinine. He has taken the one, which has had

its effect; the other he shall have by and bye. I wouldn't lose that

man on any account. His death would occasion me the greatest grief."

"Is he a great favourite?" I asked.

"Not more than any of the rest of them who were with the regiment

at Affghanistan, where they not only proved themselves as brave as

the European soldiers, but where they showed themselves superior to

prejudices most intimately connected with their religion--their caste.

That man, whom you see lying there, is a Brahmin of the highest caste;

yet, I have seen him, and other Brahmins now in my regiment, bearing

upon their shoulders the remains of an officer to the grave. Of course,

you are aware that to do a thing of that kind--to touch the corpse of

an unbeliever--involves a loss of caste?"

"Yes."

"Well, sir, these fellows braved the opinion and the taunts of every

Hindoo in the country, in order to pay respect to the memory of those

officers whose dangers and privations they had cheerfully shared. You

are aware, perhaps, that at last the government found it necessary

to issue a general order to the effect that any Sepoy of any other

regiment who insulted the men of this regiment, by telling them they

had lost their caste, would be severely punished and dismissed the

service? Such was the case, sir; and many courts-martial were held in

various stations for the trial of offenders against this order; and

many Hindoo Sepoys and Mussulman native officers were very severely

dealt with. And the thing was put down, sir; and now-a-days there is

nothing more common than for the Hindoo Sepoys, in all the regiments,

to ask permission to carry the remains of a popular officer to the

grave. Indeed, ladies are often thus honoured, and children. They seem

to have agreed amongst themselves that this does not involve a loss of

caste. So much for caste, if it can be got over by an understanding

amongst themselves! Caste! More than four-fifths of what they talk

about it is pure nonsense and falsehood, as any straightforward native

will confidentially confess to you. I don't mean to say that some

Hindoos are not very strict. Many, indeed, are so. But I mean to say

that a very small proportion live in accordance with the Shasters, and

that when they cry out, "if we do so and so we shall lose our caste,"

it is nothing more than a rotten pretext for escaping some duty, or

for refusing to obey a distasteful order. There are hypocrites in all

countries, but India swarms with them more thickly than any country in

the world. And the fact is that we foster hypocrisy. Our fellows, and

most of them Brahmins, released a good many cats from the bag, when

they were taunted with having lost their caste! If you are not in a

frightful hurry to get on, stay till we march, and go with us; and I'll

tell you and show you something more about caste. You can send on your

palkee and bearers to the next encampment ground, and I'll drive you in

my old trap of a buggy. It is not a remarkably elegant affair, but it

is very strong and roomy. By the bye, we shall have to travel 'three in

a gig;' for I must put Maun Singh, my sick Sepoy, between us; and you

will find him a very intelligent fellow, I can tell you, and the dose I

intend giving him will make him as chirpy as possible."

The conversation and the manners of the Lieutenant--free and easy as

were the latter--had fascinated me, and I accepted his invitation.

Wanderings in India, and Other Sketches of Life in Hindostan · 第 32 / 50 题