escapes up the wooded cliff. Making for Küssnacht, Tell awaits the

Governor in the Hollow Way and shoots him through the heart.

“Whilst Austria’s Tyrant sinks forlorn,

The Parent’s curse, the Infant’s scorn,

The Hate of Human-kind;

Blest with the meed, which Virtue gives,

Lo! Tell’s pure name to ages lives,

In every nobler heart enshrin’d.”

Of course, critics have arisen, who attempt the destruction of this

story. Some would not account themselves progressive if they did not try

to annihilate the

[Illustration: THE URI-ROTHSTOCK SEEN FROM BRUNNEN]

past, or turn it upside down, or inside out. Bacon was Shakespeare;

Homer was a crowd of at least twenty scribes; a Welshman, and not

Columbus, discovered America; and Bonivard, the Prisoner of Chillon, was

an out-and-out scamp. So would some deal with Tell. They would treat him

as the lake on Mount Pilatus was treated--they would throw stones at

him, scoff at his simple, heroic virtue, and drain him even of his

existence. Listen to what Baedeker, in his guide to Switzerland, has to

say of “the romantic but unfounded tradition of William Tell”:

“The legend of the national hero of Switzerland, as well as the

story of the expulsion of the Austrian bailiffs in 1308, is

destitute of historical foundation. No trace of such a person is to

be found in the work of John of Winterthur (Vitoduranus, 1349), or

that of Conrad Justinger of Bern (1420), the earliest Swiss

historians. Mention is made of him for the first time in the Sarner

Chronik of 1470, and the myth was subsequently embellished by

Ægidius Tschudi of Glarus (d. 1542), and still more by Johann von

Müller (d. 1809), while Schiller’s famous play has finally secured

to the hero a world-wide celebrity. Similar traditions are met with

among various northern nations, such as the Danes and Icelanders.”

Does not such reading as this appear to damage the scenery of Uri’s Bay?

It seems at least but poor service to render to the tourist--this

killing of half of the district’s wild romance. Those who cling to the

stout, red little volume as to a dear and trusted friend, must

nevertheless feel something like a pang of regret as they climb up

through the beech wood to the green slope and the old chalet of the

Rütli and drink water from the three famous springs; nor can they be

unconscious of a certain feeling of loss as they walk by the bushes of

mountain honeysuckle along the path to the little chapel on the

Tellsplatte and gaze through the ironwork screen at the fine mural

pictures of this outrageous but glorious myth. Tradition is a hard thing

to kick against.

Sentiment, however, is of no use for confounding the critics. But let

the Baedeker-beridden tourist take heart; there is evidence, after all,

not only that Tell may have lived, but that he may have done something

to earn his reputation. William Peter, in the Appendix to his English

translation of Schiller’s play, voices this evidence. Among other points

in favour of the substantial veracity of tradition, he gives two facts

of special hopefulness:--

“The many old German Songs and Romances in which he (Tell) is

celebrated, and which are so remarkable for their ancient dialect

and simplicity as to leave little doubt either of their own

authenticity or of the truth of the deeds which they commemorate”;

and

“The creation of three Chapels (one of them--viz. at the Tell’s

plat--in 1388, only 24 years after Tell’s death, and when there

were 114 persons present in the Landsgemeinde of Uri who had

personally known him)”.

He further states that

“The last of Tell’s posterity--a female named Verena--died in

1720. The male branch had become extinct in 1684, by the Death of

John Martin Tell of Attinghausen. Tell (the famous Tell) resided

at, and was Mayor of Bürglen, which is not half an hour’s walk from

the village of Attinghausen. He lived for many years after the

events celebrated in Schiller’s Play, performed his part at the

battles of Morgarten and Laupen in 1315 and 1339, and perished, in

1354, in his generous attempt to rescue a child from the

overflowing waters of the Schächen (the mountain torrent which

flows through Bürglen and into the Reuss at Attinghausen).”

Moreover, there is the proved importance of tradition, as such.

Something can and must be said for it. That certain episodes, accepted

as fact, do not appear in written contemporary history, is not in itself

safe proof of the falsity of those episodes. Just because no mention is

made of Tell in the White Book of Sarnen, this is small reason for

denouncing the hero as a mere replica of Toko, principal actor in an old

Danish legend. The truthfulness of traditions handed down from

generation to generation by word of mouth has frequently startled those

who have set out to refute them. The tradition of the Flood, current

among many widely separated and obscure peoples, has been proved by

geology to be quite worthy of credence. A rolling stone may gather much

moss; but the essential thing, the stone, is beneath the richly-tinted

covering.

So, let critic and historian do their worst to damage William Tell; he

will escape them as surely as he escaped Gessler. His name and deeds,

be they fact or be they fiction, are so much part and parcel of the

scenery, that nothing save a devastating convulsion of Nature can

possibly bring them to naught. Landmarks must be obliterated, the whole

landscape must be radically changed, if Tell is to sink into oblivion.

As things are, go where you will around the Lake, he and his age are

bound to assert themselves. Even the elements will combine to bring him

to your mind. Walk from Brunnen along the magnificent Axenstrasse hewn

by the Government from the rock-cliffs of the Axenberg as a strategic

route; stroll on amid the red-barked pines, the rocks aglow with tufts

of rosy _Erinus alpinus_, or with the rosy springtime heather, or the

blood-red summer cranesbill, while Orange Tip, or White Admiral and

Purple Emperor butterflies flit from flower to flower or from sun-patch

to sun-patch along the road; stroll on to the wayside clearing where

stands a stone memorial to the artist, Henry Telbin, who fell from this

spot whilst sketching in 1860; sit here amongst the bright wild

sunflowers[2] and gaze down the sheer rocks to the sparkling blue-green

waters partly flooded in golden light, and take note of how calm and

peaceful all is as the gay-awninged row-boats and the curiously ungainly

steam cargo-barges steal about the surface. Now mark that

[Illustration: THE AXENBERG FROM BRUNNEN--AN AUTUMN EVENING]

faint, distant rumbling, and look up towards the snows of the

Uri-Rothstock. A storm is brewing beyond Göeschenen and among the

Bernese Alps. You say that it is nothing; that it is a very long way

off? Wait awhile! Mark that filmy wisp of cloud, sprung suddenly from

nowhere, wreathing itself slowly about the Teufelsmünster’s cliff; mark,

too, how the blue sky has changed to grey behind the snows, and how the

snows themselves have turned a sullen white. “Cat’s-paws” are playing

erratically upon the water; the mountains are growing harder in colour;

heavy vapours are filling the gorges, and the pines about you are

whispering mysteriously among themselves. Do you notice how all the

row-boats are hastening towards Brunnen, and how the gulls are

screaming? Black clouds are rolling up over the Seelisberg hotels; white

horses are visible upon the Lake, and the Uri-Rothstock now looks quite

forbidding. Do you hear that dull roaring? No, it is not thunder; it is

the wind as it approaches. The pines above you are warning you. The

snows have disappeared in darkness; Isleton is blotted out, and the

Rütli can scarcely be seen for drifting cloud-bursts. The scene is now a

chaos of cold indigo steeped in greyness. The wind is rushing on you

with a whistling howl, and hurling hail at you. Forked lightning,

piercing the murk, stabs at the seething waters, and the thunder rattles

and booms and rolls interminably. Where all but a brief while ago was

crystal-bright and tranquil, at present is dull-grey pandemonium.

And as the electric tongues flash zigzag across the gloom, you fancy

that you catch sight of a storm-tossed barque of ancient form, and that

you hear above the screeching wind the scream of fear-struck Gessler,

imploring Tell to take the helm. For it was some such storm as this to

which Tell owed his freedom and his life. Critics point to the

convenient suddenness of the two storms which find a place in Schiller’s

play; they call them specimens of poetic licence. But this is not

necessarily the case. From the very configuration of the Bay of Uri it

is a deadly storm-trap. Ah, it can smile and look winsome enough when it

pleases--and this, to our great good, is more than often; but it is

subject to surprisingly sudden fits of rage, when it is as fearsome as,

and perhaps more treacherous than, many a hurricane-ridden ocean.

The storm has passed as quickly as it came, and butterflies and flowers

are in their element once more. If possible, the Bay is the lovelier for

its rude half-hour of stress. It can be grand in tempest and foul

weather; but that which fits it best is the rule and realm of sunshine.

Thus, in hard-won peace and grimly conceived beauty, may we

appropriately take leave of the Lake of the Forest Cantons.

There is a movement afoot to erect in these parts a costly and elaborate

national monument in commemoration of the founding of the republic; a

monument that shall eclipse all existing monuments having a like

purpose. Has, then, the Bay of Uri been forgotten, or are there hopes

that this new monument will represent a nation’s pride and faith with

greater distinction, beauty, and inspiration than does Nature’s own most

noble, venerated effort? Saturated as are these precincts with the very

spirit of primitive Swiss history; crowded as they are already with

mementoes of that heroic past, can any new, particular memorial, however

expensive and imposing, add one whit to national consciousness, one whit

of strength and fervour to the inherited love of independence? If, as

some think, there is a threatening tendency towards future absorption by

a neighbouring power, will any fresh monument to liberty, no matter how

imposing and elaborate, stir depths of protective patriotism which are

not already touched by the scenery of Uri’s Bay and the grand old story

of William Tell? I think not. The story is one of Switzerland’s

strongest bulwarks; it is among those things which, though they may have

never happened, are indestructible. I venture to believe that the spirit

of the landscape, and of all for which the landscape stands, is

engrained in the race, and that, as long as Uri’s Bay and its historic

landmarks exist, Schiller’s lines will express the simple, forceful, and

abiding verity--

“True as yon Alp to its own native Flowers,

True as the Torrent to its Rocky-Bed,

Or Clouds and Winds to their appointed Track

The Switzer cleaves to his accustom’d Freedom”.

[Illustration]

PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN

_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Canon Rawnsley’s little _brochure_, _The Revival of the Decorative

Arts in Lucerne_, is a useful companion to have with one when strolling

about the town and looking at the frescoed houses.

[2] _Buphthalmum salicifolium_, an herbaceous plant abundant around

this Lake.

Lucerne · 第 3 / 3 段