CHAPTER XVII.

CHRISTIAN INHABITANTS.

Among the Christian inhabitants of Syria, the Maronites, in point of

numbers, if not in the simplicity of their faith, certainly take rank

next to the devout followers of the Orthodox Eastern Church, and the

brief review I propose to take of their history and position will, I

think, sufficiently establish for them a claim to be placed among the

most interesting Christian races or nations which can be found in any

part of the globe.

To the present hour they continue to inhabit the mountains of Lebanon and

Anti-Lebanon, in which twelve centuries since they sought and found

refuge from the decided measures to which the general Council of

Constantinople had recourse, in order to punish them for their adherence

to the Monothelite heresy. Driven from their homes in the plains and

cities of the land, they established themselves in perfect security in

the mountain fastnesses, which have enabled them on more than one

occasion to set the power of the Egyptian and Turkish Governments at

defiance, and to afford to others, no matter what their faith or origin,

an impenetrable asylum against the persecutions of their enemies.

Europeans or Easterns, Christians or infidels, flying before the

persecutions of political or religious bigots, are still received with

open arms and untiring hospitality by the Maronites, whose forefathers

always practised the virtues learned in adversity—virtues which they have

most successfully inculcated on the minds of their descendants. No

greater proof than this can be brought forward of the excellence of their

principles, their courage and integrity of heart, since even from that

early period they made Lebanon what Hebron and other ancient cities were

among the children of Israel. The extraordinary liberality and

hospitality displayed by the original inhabitants can alone account for

the striking amalgamation of Christian and unbelieving races, and for

their having inhabited the mountains, for so long a period, in perfect

amity and good-will towards each other, except when bad feelings have

been excited by the intrigues or intermeddling of the foreign powers,

whose interference has at all times been ruinous to the country.

So complete has been the political union of the inhabitants of the

Lebanon, notwithstanding all the differences between them, that for

centuries they submitted to be governed by one head. So great is the

reliance to be placed upon those brave mountaineers, and so high is the

general estimation of their character, that when, in the year 1821, the

genius of British diplomacy and a royal administration of the navy, had

cleverly contrived the famous battle of Navarino, and the European

consuls and residents in Syria were obliged to fly from the wrath of the

Mahommedans, who set no bounds to their hatred to the Franks, they

unanimously selected the home of the Maronites as their best and safest

asylum. There they remained for nearly a year and a half, protected and

respected by their hospitable hosts, and safe from the vindictive

longings of the Turks, who dared not venture beyond the lowlands in

pursuit of their prey.

This was perhaps the first occasion in which educated Europeans obtained

a closer inspection into the customs, manners and religion of the

Maronites; and it is to be regretted that none of them have given their

experience to the world in a popular shape. Many still dwell with

pleasure upon this remarkable era in their lives; and interesting are the

tales which they tell at their own firesides, of the dangers they

encountered on their road, and the life they led in the mountains.

Indeed, I have heard several of the gentlemen who were among those who

sought an asylum in Lebanon, declare, that with the exception of the

unpleasantness of being in a measure cut off from all communication with

Europe, they seldom remember to have passed a pleasanter eighteen months,

invigorated by a delightful and pleasantly cool climate, in a country

abounding with shooting of all kinds; while, for those who loved the

study of botany, there was an inexhaustible fund of amusement and

occupation. Even here, and at a time too when they were apparently

menaced by surrounding dangers, the _youngsters_ amongst the Europeans

could not forget their predominant attachment to fun and mischief; and an

anecdote has been frequently told of a poor old Maronite priest who

prided himself extremely on the excellency of the fruits produced by the

garden attached to the monastery which he inhabited, and which I believe

were really of a very superior quality, and who had for many months

reckoned on the autumn of 1821, as likely to prove the most prolific

season he had yet known; when lo! he was surrounded by a hoard of gnats

and bees in the shape of wild young Europeans, who, despite the height of

his walls, and the depth of his ditches, and the distance they had to

come every night, succeeded night after night in rifling the orchard and

carrying off just those fruits that were upon the very turn, and which

promised to be the _first fruit_ of the season. It is needless to say

that the old priest was sadly perplexed and annoyed; the last persons in

the world to be suspected were these very identical young men; first,

because they lived so far off—secondly, because, in the presence of the

old priest, they deported themselves with so much decorum, and attended

so regularly to the Sunday service, that the old priest would as fain

believe himself guilty of a felony as harbour any suspicions against the

real offenders. He began to fear sadly that he must needs have some

black sheep amongst his own flock; and as the depredations continued

nightly, despite watching and all other precautions, he lost all

patience, and after service one Sunday pronounced an anathema against

those parties who had persisted in stealing his fruit if they did not

immediately desist from their wicked practices. All was vain! Weeks

rolled on, still the fruits were missing, and still anathemas were

thundered on a Sunday from the pulpit, till the old priest in a fit of

despair caused all the unripe fruit to be plucked at once, determined, as

he expressed himself, at least to benefit by a few preserves and jellies,

since he was not permitted to taste any of his ripe fruit, and so the

affair ended for the time being. Some years after, however, when many

successive rich harvests of delicious fruits had completely obliterated

the misfortunes of that particular year from the old priest’s memory, he

chanced to be riding through the very identical village to which his

fruit had been regularly conveyed of a night, and was astonished to find

growing in the wildest profusion specimens of the apricot, peach, and

nectarine, of which he had heretofore prided himself that he himself was

the sole possessor. Enquiry was set on foot, and the Druse at whose

house the young men had been lodging stated, that some years since, when

some young Franks were occupying his house, they used to receive large

baskets of fruit, which they had told him were sent to them as presents

from a convent, and that the kernels and seeds of these fruits had been

preserved and planted, and, with very little attention or care, had

succeeded to admiration. Thus, out of evil resulted good; for if it had

not been for these young thieves, the mountaineers might have been

debarred from obtaining many excellent fruits, which are now growing wild

upon the mountains.

The Maronites derive their name from Maroun, a holy recluse, whose good

actions and moral teachings were like so many dew-drops upon the

wilderness of sin and wickedness in which some of the inhabitants of the

East were wandering, about the beginning of the fifth century. They were

subsequently associated with the Romish Church by one John, the Maronite,

who joined the Latin insurgents against the authority of the Greek

Emperor. They remained subordinate to the Church of Rome during the next

six hundred years, though they continued to maintain their own

patriarchs. This attachment and subjection to Rome was, however,

considerably diminished by the events which followed the crusades; and

they for a short time maintained an independent position. Rome, however,

never lost sight of its former subjects, and perpetually strove to win

them back to the fold of which the Pope is the shepherd; and after forty

years of negotiation and intrigue, Pope Eugenius succeeded in procuring

from the Maronites a solemn renewal of their recognition of the Papal

authority. From that date they have adhered to the Romish Church,

enjoying privileges which the temporising unscrupulous conclave in Rome

conferred and maintained, though contrary to the laws of their Church, in

order not to lose so large a body of supporters. What these privileges

are, will be seen in the following account of the people and their

religious practices.

The connection which exists between the Maronites and the Church of Rome

is, in point of fact, maintained almost entirely by the priests, who, of

course, have very good motives for their conduct. Were it not for the

almost slavish subjection of the people to the priestly authority, this

connection with the Church of Rome would long since have been violently

shaken, if not entirely severed, for the second time.

I have said that they inhabit the mountains of Lebanon; but I ought to be

more precise, and to state, that they are chiefly to be found in those

parts of the mountains which are in a north-easterly direction from

Beyrout. They are a most industrious, contented, happy people, whose

chief occupations are confined to weaving silk, and to tilling their

ground—which, in some parts, the rocks and the soil render exceedingly

difficult—for cultivating their mulberry trees for silk worms, which they

do with great zeal and good effect.

So thoroughly has nature fortified the district they inhabit, and so

manly and courageous are they, that until the year 1843 they had never

been conquered by the Mahommedans; and though they had politically agreed

to the payment of an annual tribute to the Porte, they were at that

period without a garrison. They have experienced great vicissitudes at

different periods, but throughout their whole history, I find that each

crisis only served to add to the power and influence of the priesthood,

who, in all things, social as well as political, have an incredible hold

over the people. They are the legislators and the administrators. As

they cunningly work together with the Sheikhs, nothing but a thorough

change in the system of education will enable the people to shake off

their fetters.

Their creed and ritual partake both of the Greek and Latin churches; but,

though they reverently adore the Virgin, they allow no images of any kind

in their churches. What is still more remarkable, is the fact, their

priests before ordination are allowed to marry, but the patriarchs and

bishops must live in the strictest celibacy. So great is the deference

paid by the laity to the priesthood, that whenever one of them meets a

priest, he is sure at least to kiss his hand and ask his blessing; while

some of the more pious, or perhaps more servile, of the women kneel

before the priestly robe as if it were as holy and as sacred as the altar

at which its wearer officiates. As a rule, however, the people dislike

being called Roman Catholics; indeed many of them openly profess to hate

the See of Rome, and, were it not for the very Romish tendencies of the

protection and education they obtain at their schools, which in other

respects are really excellent, the Maronites would certainly, in a very

short period, disconnect themselves from all association with the See of

Rome.

An attempt was made not very long ago by an American missionary, to

introduce a purer Christianity among them; but the unfavourable results

of his brief residence at Deyr-al-Kamar may be solely attributed to a

want of caution, in too abruptly opposing the doctrines of the

established faith before educating the people.

A legate from the Pope is perpetually resident on the Lebanon, where the

chief monastery of the Maronite priesthood is situated. At various

periods, too, there have been missions sent out from Rome in order to

prevent any slackening or lessening of the papal influence. At this

moment there is a Lazarite mission in Syria, the members of which have

succeeded in persuading several fathers of families to part with their

children for the purpose of having them educated in Rome. They have also

constructed a hospital, and established schools for male and female

children at Beyrout. The convents are among the few religious

institutions within the dominions of his Imperial Majesty the Sultan,

which are allowed to use the pleasant-sounding church-bells; and the

Lebanon {306} is among the few localities in the East where the European

traveller can experience the pleasant feelings and genial associations of

his country, which are excited by the solemn sound of the Sabbath-bell,

feelings that were unintelligible to me until I had spent more than one

Sabbath in Europe. This privilege is a terrible ear-sore to the

Mahommedans, who detest the Maronites more than any other Christian sect;

partly because they know the Maronites entertain the belief that they are

destined to put a period to Islamism, by enticing French interests into

the East.

I may observe, here, that in point of fact the Maronite faith has no firm

foundation; for heretofore they seem to have been a people such as is

described by St. James, chap. i. ver. 6—“He that wavereth is like a wave

of the sea driven of the wind and tossed.” And they continue to be

lukewarm; neither one thing nor the other; Roman Catholic in their

adherence to the Pope and in the observance of certain outward forms of

religion—Greeks as regards the privileges accorded to their priests—and

Protestants in not admitting images in their churches. If we take a

review of their _waverings_, we may be led to some conclusion on this

head. First, we are told that their sect originated with a hermit of the

fifth century: nearly 600 years they appear to have adhered to their

original faith, but in 1182 they submitted to the Pope’s authority.

Barely a century elapses when they are found wavering again, owing to

circumstances then taking place in the East. Nearly 300 years afterwards

they again return to the Church of Rome; this was in 1445. And now, 400

years after that, we find their creed to consist of an amalgamation of

all the Christian sects. This cannot last long; they must eventually

become one thing or the other; either _de facto_ Roman Catholics, or else

_de facto_ Greeks or Protestants.

Notwithstanding the Maronites live under a theocracy, from the peculiar

situation of the Lebanon with regard to the lords of the surrounding

land, the admission to many privileges was rendered not only

advantageous, but absolutely requisite; and from these facts the notions

of liberty entertained by the Maronite are far more exalted than those

meagre ideas that possess the brain of the inhabitant of the plains.

Their patriarch, subject to the Pope’s approval, is elected by the

bishops of the nation: to him they pay extraordinary deference. The

bishops are also possessed of immense influence, and their word is

tantamount to law. The local authorities are careful to avoid anything

that might cause offence to these prelates, well knowing the influence

they exercise over the minds of the people. Owing to this, crime is in a

great measure unknown amongst the Maronites; for offences, however

trivial, are immediately judged by the clergy, and satisfaction and

retribution at once exacted. Marriages without the bishop’s consent

cannot be solemnized; and any _faux pas_ on the part of young people

usually terminates in their marriage.

The word of excommunication or anathema, amongst the Maronites, is

“_fra-massoon_”; and he or she on whom it is pronounced, is as much

avoided and abhorred as the plague-stricken. All houses are closed

against a “_fra-massoon_,” and he may starve of cold and hunger amongst

his own family and friends, with none to compassionate him. I remember

being told by a person not overburdened with common sense, that upon one

occasion, some years ago, a friend of his had given shelter and food to a

“_fra-massoon_”; and that, happening unfortunately, soon after, to quit

this world, his body was put aside in a cave, in accordance with the

usual custom. Ten years afterwards, the coffin was accidentally opened,

and the spectators saw with horror that the corpse was quite fresh, and

presented no signs of decomposition. So unusual an occurrence excited

great curiosity, and enquiries being made, it soon became known that the

departed had transgressed the laws of the Church, by giving hospitality

to one whom its ministers had cursed. The relatives of the deceased

instantly went to the priest, and, after feeing him pretty freely,

obtained his services to read a certain number of prayers over the

corpse, and to pronounce upon it the forgiveness of the Church. Hereupon

nature resumed her usual course, and nothing further was heard of the

subject.

The Maronites, under the influence of their priesthood, are noted as

being most inhospitable to all excepting those professing their own

creed; and even European travellers have been refused a shelter for the

night, supposing that they were missionaries. They are a very

superstitious and credulous people, and delight in absurd legends. They

perform pilgrimages to Jerusalem and also to the tomb of Noah, supposed

to be situated in the village of Kerak, between Beyrout and Baalbec; and

about this they have endless ridiculous stories. They also pretend to

have discovered the tomb of Moses, at a place a short distance from where

the late Lady Hester Stanhope used to live.

One great advantage which the Maronites possess, and which must

eventually prove very beneficial to them, is the fact, that education is

spreading universally amongst them. There is a native printing-press at

work in one of the monasteries; but though the generality of the men are

well-bred, the women are grossly ignorant and rude. Lady Francis Egerton

found cause to complain of this sadly: “If I fastened my door,” says her

ladyship, “they called and knocked and battered at it, until I feared it

would yield to their efforts; and this at five o’clock in the morning,

whilst I was in bed.”—A pardonable curiosity, however, amongst a

semi-barbarous people; for so the women must be termed, until they are

admitted to the privileges conferred by education, and social intercourse

with civilised English women.

The Maronites, in common with the Greeks and the Armenians, pay an annual

visit to the Cedars of Lebanon, for the celebration of the feast of the

Transfiguration. Here they celebrate mass on a rough stone altar, at the

foot of the Cedars: in the open air—in “a temple not made with

hands”—some of them offer up prayers and thanksgivings, quoting those

very Psalms of David which were composed and written expressly to

commemorate God’s mercy and loving-kindness, as in connection with the

immediate spots which surround these cedars.

A wedding amongst the Maronites differs in some material points from the

ordinary marriages in Syria; in the first place, the priest is considered

the principal negotiator, and on his report as to the suitableness of the

match, much of the future happiness of the young people may be said to

depend. After preliminaries have been arranged, gifts of dresses, and

the like, are exchanged, but the bashful _fiancée_ is supposed to be in

utter ignorance of all that transpires, to spurn these gifts, and to

dislike even the mention of her future husband’s name. The priest

blesses the bridal clothes of the bridegroom before he adopts them. When

the friends go to fetch the bride, a mock combat ensues, in which,

however, without bloodshed or bruises, the bridegroom’s party is

invariably victorious, and the women carry off the veiled bride in

triumph, attended by her female relation. The bride’s house mourns her

departure, and she herself makes no secret of her sorrow to leave; but

the _arus_ (bride) no sooner makes her appearance than the shouts and

acclamations, and firing of muskets by the assembled multitude, seem

effectually to drown any discordant sounds of lamentation; the

procession, however, moves at a funeral pace, for it is thought highly

indecorous that the bride should appear as though anxious to arrive at

her new abode. On crossing the threshold, she is saluted by the women

with the cry of welcome, and clapping the hands; and after her veil has

been removed, she is covered with one of red gauze, and then made to sit

in state on the divan at the upper end of the room. Here she neither

smiles nor speaks, but rises on the entry of each venerable female

friend, to embrace her, and kiss her hand. Both men and women, though in

separate apartments, pass the night in noisy hilarity. Before sunset,

the bishop, or in his absence the senior priest, attends at the

bridegroom’s house to perform the ceremony; all symptoms of mirth are

immediately abandoned, silence is proclaimed, and then the service

proceeds very much after the fashion of the Greek Church, only that both

the groomsman and bridesmaid are crowned by the priest as well as the

couple being married, and the _bridegroom_ places the ring given him by

the priest on the bride’s finger. Towards the end of the marriage

ceremony, the priest puts a piece of blue ribband, with the picture of a

saint attached to it, round the bridegroom’s neck. The newly married

bride is confined to her house for the space of a month after her

marriage.

I have already mentioned the extreme facility with which the Maronites

believe many fables and superstitions that have any connection with

religious matters; and perhaps I shall be pardoned for introducing in

evidence of this, a fact which occurred about eighty years ago, which

attracted the attention of the traveller Volney, and which is still

spoken of very frequently among the inhabitants. There are several

nunneries belonging to the Maronites in the Lebanon, and it was in one of

them, about the period mentioned, that Hindyeh, a young nun, forced

herself into great notoriety by the severity of her penances, and the

extraordinary piety she displayed. Having found many friends, her

reputation increased to such an extent, that she was at last declared

capable of working miracles; and the simple-minded Maronites, having

provided the funds, she was duly installed in a religious establishment

of her own. Her nunnery, and the other establishments in connection with

it, had flourished for more than twenty years, when a suspicion was

suddenly excited, that several of the nuns, of whom many had died, had

met their death by unfair means, and that most improper practices

prevailed within the cells. An unhappy merchant of Sidon, who had placed

two of his daughters in the establishment, disturbed by these reports,

determined to visit the place and make inquiries. On his arrival, he was

told he could not see his daughters because they were ill, and finding

that all entreaties were in vain, he proceeded to Deyr al Kamar, and

obtained an armed force from Emir Yusuf, the chief of the mountain, and

the attendance of the bishop to enquire into the matter. The result

shewed the existence of a system of wickedness and profligacy, exceeding

in iniquity anything ever known, to which one of the daughters of the

merchant in question had already fallen a victim, the other being at the

time almost dead. The holy, or rather unholy, Hindyeh, was seized and

imprisoned, with her accomplices, and the examinations which were made

fully criminated them all. The arch-priestess of all this wickedness

managed to escape from the convent in which she was imprisoned, and to

reach a locality in which she possessed a large body of adherents and

believers. Notwithstanding the disclosures which were made, the

hypocritical career pursued by this nefarious woman, so completely

imposed upon the weak and credulous Maronites, that she died respected

and revered, and to this day is acknowledged as a saint. Need I say

anything more to prove the extent to which this weakness is carried among

the _fellahen_.

The number of Roman Catholics in Syria, including both the Armenians, and

the Greek Roman Catholics, as one portion of them is called, may be

stated at about 200,000, and, as they differ in no important points from

the Roman Catholics of the West, they may be passed over without further

mention. I may observe, however, that the Armenians are not so generally

respected as their Christian brethren of other denominations; and, in

illustration, I would remark, that at the grand ceremony on Easter-day of

bringing down fire from heaven, the Armenians are driven to obtain a

portion of it as best they may; their priests and pilgrims being

generally forced into the most remote corner of the sacred edifice.

The Copts, or, as we are accustomed to call them in the East, “the

Oobbeet,” are the followers of one “Mar Yackoob.” Their chief doctrine

is that Christ possessed but one nature; and they agree with the Church

of Rome in saying that the Holy Spirit proceeded from the Father to the

Son. They are governed by a patriarch who resides at Cairo, and is

called patriarch of Alexandria, whose authority is very great over the

whole sect; indeed, their most prominent characteristic may be said to be

an almost slavish obedience to their priests. Like the Maronites, they

invariably kiss the hand of any priest they may encounter in the open

street, or country; and many of them prostrate themselves before the holy

man. Though they conform to the Hebrew practice of circumcision, they

also baptize their infants. It is customary with them to pray seven

times during the twenty-four hours, according to the rules prescribed by

the patriarchs; and it is, moreover, a common practice with many of them

to learn by heart the whole of the Psalms, some of which they invariably

repeat before proceeding to transact any business, in the belief that

this devout recurrence to the Psalmist will insure prosperity to the

affair they have in hand.

Generally they are very clever, especially at figures. A few of them

have recently joined the Orthodox Eastern Church, with which they have

many practices and doctrines in common; and a small section has been very

powerfully worked upon by a Lazarite mission, the members of which

succeeded in persuading several parents to part with their children for

the purpose of having them educated in Paris.

It is presumed, from the remarkably Jewish cast of their features, and

from their adherence to the Hebrew law, that they are of Jewish origin;

but other evidence on this point is wanting. Though I have said that

they were called after one Mar Yackoob, their existence as a Christian

sect at an earlier period is clearly established; and indeed it has been

said by many of the learned visitors to Syria, that they are as old as

the Nestorians. At all events they were only organised by Mar Yackoob,

who founded a perfect theocratic form of association or government.

Indeed, wherever we turn, whether it be to the several Christian sects or

denominations in the East, or to any one of the pagan forms of religion,

we find the same fact in all. They have all been founded and organised

by a priest, and, whether for good or evil, priestly influence has, in

most instances, prevailed until the present day. It is also believed

that the Armenians were in some way connected with, or absolutely

descended from, the Copts; and there is very good evidence of great

intimacy between the latter and the Nestorians, the last of the Christian

bodies in Syria, and now to be described. In point of numbers the Copts

are very unimportant. They do not exceed 300 in Syria; but there are a

great many of them to be found in Egypt.

The Nestorians now claim my attention; but as very little is known

concerning them in my own neighbourhood, and as I have never had an

opportunity of visiting them in their own mountain-homes, I can only

relate what has been told me by travellers.

It is believed that they are of Jewish origin; but there is no positive

evidence on the point, beyond their features, their observance of certain

Jewish customs, and their respect for portions of the Hebrew code of

laws. It cannot be doubted, however, that they have maintained

Christianity in the East for more than sixteen hundred years; and that,

as primitive Christians, who have not degenerated from the simple form of

worship enjoined by the Apostles of our Lord, they are entitled to our

deepest respect and veneration.

They are divided into two sects, the Simple and the Papal Nestorians; but

the former do not acknowledge the latter as a part of their body, and

declare that they are in no way connected with the Nestorian Church.

They have two patriarchs, who reside in the mountains near Julamerk, and

whose influence, together with that of all the priesthood, is very great

indeed. Here again we find existing a purely theocratic form of

government. The priesthood legislate politically and socially, and they

administer the laws judicially, as well as attend to the religious wants

of the community over which they preside.

The habits and manners of life of the Nestorians are so primitive, that

their simplicity has become proverbial in the East. Their belief differs

from the Orthodox Eastern Church, by declaring the existence of two

persons in the Saviour, as was propounded by their founder, Nestorius, in

the beginning of the fifth century. The sacrament of bread and wine is

administered to all by the officiating priest, in almost the same way as

this ceremony is performed in the Greek Eastern churches. They are most

hostile to the Roman Catholics, whom they hate.

Including the Nestorians inhabiting Persia, I believe there may be

altogether about 100,000. On the confines of Persia, they are engaged in

perpetual warfare with the Koords.

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