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[Picture: Portrait of the Author]
THE THISTLE
AND
THE CEDAR OF LEBANON,
* * * * *
BY
HABEEB RISK ALLAH EFFENDI,
M.R.C.S.,
AND ASSOCIATE OF KING’S COLLEGE.
* * * * *
“And Jehoash the king of Israel sent to Amaziah king of Judah,
saying, The thistle that was in Lebanon, sent to the cedar that was
in Lebanon, saying, Give thy daughter to my son to wife; and there
passed by a wild beast that was in Lebanon, and trode down the
thistle.”—2 Kings xiv. 9.
* * * * *
SECOND EDITION.
* * * * *
LONDON:
JAMES MADDEN, 8 LEADENHALL STREET.
* * * * *
1854
* * * * *
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER AND CO.
FINSBURY CIRCUS.
PREFACE
TO THE FIRST EDITION.
The following pages were written in compliance with the solicitations of
many esteemed friends, who were desirous that I should lay before the
public an outline of my life and travels, and give to the English nation
a description of the domestic habits and religious opinions of my
countrymen in Syria. However incompetent I may have proved for the task,
I trust that what I have written may not be wholly uninteresting; and
above all, it is my earnest hope, that my feeble efforts to arouse the
generous interest of the English for the welfare and improvement of my
native land, may not prove without use.
In choosing the title which is prefixed to my humble work, I have acted
upon the long-established usage of my countrymen of speaking
parabolically, a practice which has existed from the days of Job down to
the present time.
I cannot conclude without offering my heartfelt thanks to my friend, the
Rev. Wm. Frederick Witts, Fellow of King’s College, Cambridge, for the
valuable assistance he has rendered me in revising these pages for the
press.
R. A.
18, _Cambridge-square_, _Hyde Park_,
_May_, 1853.
PREFACE
TO THE SECOND EDITION.
One thousand copies, which constituted the First Edition of this work,
having been disposed of within six months, I cannot allow another to go
forth without expressing the satisfaction I feel at the liberal
encouragement it has met with, and the gratitude I entertain towards my
English readers for their indulgence towards it. My acknowledgments are
also due to the Press, for the very favourable notices with which it has
been invariably honoured by them.
The same hope which animated my labours, and induced me to present them
to the public, still cheers me on, namely, that of engaging the attention
and exciting the interest of the English nation in the fate and prospects
of Syria, my beloved country: a land dear to every thinking mind from its
sacred associations, and richly meriting the attention of the man of
business and the traveller, from its undeveloped material resources, and
from its picturesque beauty and healthy climate.
I can only allude to, in order to deplore, the state of war which now
agitates and exhausts it; but in whatever manner the dispute may be
settled, I have confidence that England and France will see justice done
to an outraged country; and also, that the patriotic cause of our
government will finally triumph over its enemies; for, under the generous
and tolerant sway of Abdul Medjid Khan, and his enlightened ministers,
far more is to be effected for the welfare of every class of his
subjects, than are likely to arise from the interference of any foreign
power; and I am sure that the more intelligent portion of the Orthodox
Greek population are fully aware of this, and that they are, as they
ought to be, loyally disposed towards the Sultan, their sovereign.
As I am now on the eve of quitting England for the East, I take this
opportunity of publicly giving expression to my heartfelt sense of the
uniform kindness and courtesy I have met with from all ranks in this
mighty empire; also, of once more expressing the earnest hope, that when
this present contest shall have ceased, British energy, philanthropy, and
capital, may be induced to promote the commercial and educational
development of the population and resources of my native land. She
possesses many natural treasures—she is eager for improvement—she is not
far distant.
If to this end the following pages shall have, even in the smallest
degree contributed, I shall enjoy the high gratification of believing
that neither my life nor my labour has been in vain.
Many inaccuracies, I regret to say, occurred in the First Edition; these
I have done my best to correct. Should any (I trust no material ones)
have still escaped me, I must crave my reader’s indulgence for them.
_London_, _Feb._ 11, 1854.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
1
CHAPTER I.
Reminiscences of early Childhood—My Birth-place—Sheikh 5
Faris Biridi—Early Tuition—Family Customs—Position of
Shuay-fât, and Pastures—Inhabitants—Author quits for
Beyrout
CHAPTER II.
Beyrout—Piratical Attack—Flight to Mountains—Effects of 14
the Assault upon the Inhabitants
CHAPTER III.
Damascus—Author’s First visit to—Description of the 18
Town—The Inhabitants—The Customs and Manners—The
Ladies—Their Beauty and Freedom—Court-yards and
Houses—Bazaars—Environs—Soirées—Games—Specimens of Poetry
and Songs—Wonderful Legend—Refreshments—Entertainment
given by the British Consul—Privileges of Christians—Padre
Tomaso—American and British
Missions—Population—Antiquity—Ravages by Cholera
CHAPTER IV.
Return to Beyrout—American Mission—Original Difficulties 41
they encountered—How overcome—The Estimation of
Physicians—Anecdote of Mr. Zohrab—American
Doctors—Introduction to School—Reminiscences of
School-days—Anecdote of Sheikh Ahmed—Lists of
Missionaries—Adventure of Mr. Bird—The Pacha’s
Revenge—Description of the Rise of the Settlement and
trade at Beyrout—Climate, Hints with regard to
CHAPTER V.
Visit to Cyprus—Description of Voyage—Arrival at 57
Larnaca—Visit to Nicosia and other towns—Cyprus
Wines—Languages—Departure for Tersous—Arrival at
Mersine—Scenery in Cilicia—Gardens—Buildings of
Tersous—Streets—Climate—Inhabitants—Signor Michael
Saba—Adana—Its Shops and
Streets—Inhabitants—Fanaticism—Revolts—Pacha’s Service—The
Pass of Kulek Bughas—Scenery—Departure for Ayas
CHAPTER VI.
Ayas to Scanderoon—Scanderoon to Aleppo—Description of 71
Journey—The Aleppines—Their Style and Polish—A Wedding
described—Syrian Step-mothers—Jewish and Christian
quarters—Earthquake of 1822—Pastimes and Garden
Parties—Population—Commerce—Departure for Antioch—Gessir
il Haded—Orontes—Antioch
CHAPTER VII.
Antioch—Its Beauty and Fruitfulness—Visit to Suedia and 85
Lattakia—Signor Mosi Elias—Hardships endured by Consular
Agents—Anecdote of English Travellers—Uses and Abuses of
the Protection System—Fanaticism of Moslem
Populace—Produce—Lattakia to Tripoli—Oranges—Abu
Rish—Signor Catsoflis—A fair Intercessor for Justice to
the Injured—Results of the Appeal—Cedars of
Lebanon—Baalbec—Anecdote of English Forces—Turjaman
Bashi—Strange Character of Sayid Ali—Damascus—Djouni and
Sidon—Lady Hesther—General Loustannau—Description of
Sidon—Bombardment of St. Jean d’Acre—Kaipha and Mount
Carmel—Mistaken Ideas of Love
CHAPTER VIII.
First visit to England—Sail for Malta—Miseries of 122
Seasickness—Arrival at Malta—The Emir Beschir—Late Bishop
of Jerusalem—Steam Frigate Gorgon—Arrival at
Portsmouth—Rev. Baptist Noel—London—Souvenir of
Wimbledon—A Duel prevented—Anecdote of Druse Sheikh—Return
to Syria—Sir George Otway—Arrival at Beyrout—War between
Druses and Maronites—Stamboul—Emir Kasim, his History—Lord
Cowley—Dr. Bennett—Mr. Goodall—Return to
England—Malta—Marseilles—Adventure with French Officer—M.
Guizot—Suliman Pacha—M. Thiers—Delicate Mission—Arrival in
England—Prince Callimaki—Mr. Zohrab—Mr. B. Phillips—King’s
College, London—Medical Profession—Lectures—Frightful
Accident—Long Illness—Admission as Member of King’s
College—The Mir Shahamet Ali and Sir C. Wade—Visit to
Manufacturing Districts—Lamartine
CHAPTER IX.
Visit to Paris—First Impressions—Boulevards—Champs 164
Elysées—Description of a Lodging-house—Domestic Habits of
the French—English and French Friendship—Departure for
Constantinople _viâ_ Vienna
CHAPTER X.
Reminiscences of Stamboul—Entertainments—Songs—The Tailor 170
and the Sultan—The Sultan’s Condescension—Marriage of the
Daughter of Prince Vogiredis—Turkish Navy—Present Crisis—A
Renegade Girl
CHAPTER XI.
Egypt—Abbas Pasha and his Improvements—The British 184
Consul-General—Mr. Abet—Mr. Larking—Boghas
Bey—Antiquities—Climate—Library—Advantages enjoyed by
European Residents—Festivities—Fulfilment of Prophecy—Late
Gift of Horses presented by Nubar Bey to her Majesty—The
Hon. G. Massey—Impressions made on the Grooms
CHAPTER XII.
Visit to Devonshire, Bath, and Cheltenham—Visit to Lady 197
Rolle—Description of Bicton—Travelling by an Express
Train—A Coachman’s Remarks—The Park—Arrival and
Reception—Description of my Life—My Portrait
taken—Amusements—Conversation with Mrs. P--- of Exeter
about the Greek Church—English Young Ladies—Cottage
Visiting—Buildings erected by Lady Rolle at Bicton—Amusing
Anecdote of an Eastern Princess—Drive to
Exeter—Equipage—Cathedral—Frescoes—Gaol—Child in Prison
there—Female Department—Villagers’ Opinions of
me—Bath—Beauties of Country reminded me of
Syria—Springs—Arrival—Sir Claude Wade—Tour of the
City—Society—Diversity of Religious
Opinions—Service—Soirée—Agreeable Rencontre—Second Visit
to Bath—Bachelor’s Ball—Lady Mayoress’s Ball at the
Guildhall—Recognition as a Free-mason—Invitation to “The
Lodge of Honour” to meet the Mayor—Meeting with Dr.
Thompson—Lecture—Quoted from the Paper—Visit to
Cheltenham—Rev. J. Brown—Rev. C. H. Bromley—Meeting—My
Address—Appeal to send over for, and educate young Syrians
at the Normal College at Cheltenham—Case of a young Syrian
Lad—Lord Northwick—His Collection of
Paintings—Conclusion—Reasons for appearing before the
Public as an Author
CHAPTER XIII.
Impressions of England—Letters to a Friend in the 216
East—Voyage to England—Landing—Custom-house—Crowded
Thoroughfares—English Activity—Hotel—Servants—Drive—Motley
Groups—Squares—Park—Houris—Heart-aches—Dinner—English
Splendour, but Syrian Ease and a Chibuk preferred—English
Acquaintances—Society—Young Ladies—Their
Freedom—Matrons—Their
Acquirements—Etiquette—Dress—Widows—Gentlemen—English
Sabbath—Public Schools and Colleges—The Queen—Missionary
and Charitable Institutions—Great Wealth of the
English—The Merchants—The Fashionable World—The
Opera—Expensive Pleasure—Insatiable Craving for
Riches—Desire for an English
Home—Marriages—Children—Schooling—Absence of Reverence for
Beards—Devotion of the Young Fair Sex to Uniforms—Kindness
to Strangers—Interest in the Holy Land—Hospitality—Private
Worth and Public Scheming
CHAPTER XIV.
Life, Manners, and Customs of Syria—Ceremonies at 233
Births—Christian Names—Remedies for Infantile
Diseases—Early Instruction and Training—Syrian
Manners—Reverential Treatment of Priests—Personal
Cleanliness—Education—Betrothal—Marriage—Polygamy of
Mahommedans—Education of Girls—Household Maxims—Domestic
Snakes—Mourning for the Dead—A Lover’s Lament
CHAPTER XV.
Syria and her Inhabitants—Description of the Southern 259
parts of Palestine—The Misery of its Inhabitants—Their
Disposition and Labours—Sea-coast Population—Their
Habits—Scriptural Analogy—Sidon, Lebanon, Tripoli,
Lattakia and Antioch—The Children of those Parts—Appeal to
the British on behalf of Syria—Real State of the Turkish
Empire—Safety of English Investments—The Turkish
Dominions—How to purchase Property—English Emigrants would
be welcomed in Syria—Mr. John Barker—Colonel
Churchill—Lady Hester Stanhope—Fruits—Cultivation of the
Soil—Advantages for the English Emigrant and Amelioration
for Syria—Major Macdonald—His Discovery of Turquoises and
Presentation of some to the Queen—Advice to Emigrants—All
Particulars and Expenses of Voyage explained, Outlay,
Working, Expenditure and Profits derivable—Climate
recommended for Health
CHAPTER XVI.
Syria, her Inhabitants and their Religion—Religious 279
Teaching in Syria—American Missionaries—Their Zeal—Greek
or Orthodox Eastern Church—Interview and Conversation with
the Patriarch and Bishops at Constantinople—Letter from
Syria—The Conversion of the Son of a Mufti to
Christianity—Lord Shaftesbury and the Protestant College
at Malta—Mahommedan Power and the Christian Churches in
Syria—Claims of the Orthodox Eastern Church and its
Affinity to the Protestant Churches of England—The Four
Patriarchs—Education of the Syrian Priesthood—The Service
of the Orthodox Eastern Church—Dissenters from it—Account
of Karolus their Patriarch—Dispute about the Head-dress
and reference to Constantinople—Decision—Jealousies of the
Christian Sects—Political Animosities
CHAPTER XVII.
The Maronites—Their Political Position—Anecdote connected 299
with the Year 1821—Their Customs, Manners, and
Religion—The Number of Roman Catholics in Syria—The
Copts—The Nestorians
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Population of Syria continued—The Metoulis or 317
Heterodox Followers of Mahommed—The Druses—The
Nosairiyeh—The Yezidees
CHAPTER XIX.
Appearance and Costume of the People—The Aleppine 338
Greeks—The Dyers—The Armenians—The Yahoodee or
Israelites—The Turkish Effendi—The Bedouins—The Fellaheen
CHAPTER XX.
The Occupations of the People—Lebanon in April—The 352
Mulberry Plantations—Anecdote—The Silkworms—The Wheat
Harvest—Borghol—The Vintage—The Olive Winter—The Resources
of Syria—The Small Capitalists in Syria
CHAPTER XXI.
The Comparative Influences of the Roman Catholic and 370
Protestant Faiths in Syria—The Roman Catholics—Their
Convents—Greek and Armenian Monasteries—The Knowledge and
Practice of Medicine—The Influence of the
Hakeem—Anecdote—Conversions—The Sisters of Charity
CHAPTER XXII.
The Remedy—The Early 384
Apostles—Physicians—Missionaries—Introduction of the
Silkworm from China—Incorporation of the Medical with the
Clerical Profession—Proposed Society to be formed in
England—Hospital—School-rooms—Dispensary—Purchase of
Land—Its Cultivation—System of Education—Letter of Dr.
Thomson—Mr. Cuthbert Young’s “Notes of a Wayfarer”
APPENDIX.
Notes on the Geology of Syria, by Professor Forbes 397
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
In presenting the British public with the following pages, containing a
brief sketch of my life and travels, together with a description of the
customs and present condition of my native land, I am actuated solely by
motives which, I trust, a careful perusal of this work will prove to be
disinterested.
All nations are more or less patriotic; none more so than the inhabitants
of the British isles. With them the inducements to this love of home are
all-sufficient, for their religion is the purest, their government and
laws the best in the world, and they are second to no people in the
enjoyment of privileges and blessings, such as could be only enjoyed by a
“peculiar people,” under the immediate protection of the Almighty
Benefactor. Next to them we may rank, as promoters of freedom and
enlightenment, the citizens of the United States, those other scions of a
noble stock.
Yet so peculiar is that innate love of man for the particular country and
people with which are associated the early years of his childhood, that
even the son of utter darkness, born and bred a savage, inured to every
hardship and privation, who boasts of no city, scarcely professes a
religion, whose home is the desert waste, his bed the warm sands of
Arabia, even he, the wild Bedouin, in his untutored heart, sets boundless
store by the place and people to which early attachment has rivetted his
affections. Separate him from these and from his beloved mare, and no
riches or pleasures could compensate him for the loss. This is also
applicable to the humble and oftentimes oppressed natives who dwell in
the towns and villages of Syria, Lebanon, and Palestine. Though for
centuries they have been subjected to the heavy yoke of bondage, and of
late years, like the Israelites of old, were bondsmen to Egypt; however
much they may have deplored their hard fate, none have ever dreamt of
quitting the dear land of their forefathers—those ancestors who were
coeval with the patriarchs. Some till the ground where Abraham once
tended his flocks; others cut timber where the men of Hiram and Solomon
once hewed cedars for the temple at Jerusalem; but the boast and glory of
all these is, that they dwell in the land where the Promise was
fulfilled. One may be by birth a Nazarene, another a townsman of Cana.
A day or two’s journey enables him to reach that very Bethlehem where the
blessed Redeemer was born, to track His holy footsteps in His pilgrimage
of mercy from place to place, to weep and bemoan Him on the site of the
last closing scenes of His holy life, and to raise up their hearts with
grateful thanksgivings for the great salvation wrought out for their
souls by His glorious resurrection.
Apart from these cherished associations of the spiritual with the
temporal world, the native of the Holy Land is fondly attached to his
country, because its climate is congenial to his manners, its soil
productive, its inhabitants hospitable, its waters the purest, air the
freshest, sun the brightest, fruits the most delicious, and flowers the
sweetest and most wildly profuse. All these gifts in the greatest
luxuriance are to be found within the Lebanon range—that Lebanon of which
the inspired bard, the wisest of men and the best of kings, sings in his
beautiful metaphor on Christian love. {3} “Thy plants are an orchard of
pomegranates with pleasant fruits. . . A fountain of gardens, a well of
living waters, and streams from Lebanon.”
With such a past to dwell on, it is not surprising that the poor,
neglected peasant of Syria may still proudly vaunt himself of his
birthright and country. I, too, hope, kind reader, for your sympathy in
my sharing this national characteristic, and for endeavouring, as far as
in me lies, to promote the welfare, both temporal and eternal, of my
fellow countrymen and native land. The former, alas! are gradually
sinking deeper and deeper into the meshes of superstition and idolatry;
the latter groans under a heavy yoke, rendered still less supportable by
the grossest ignorance. The indefatigable propagators of the Romish
faith are arousing the people from their pristine ignorance, only, I
fear, to plunge them into a more fearful vortex of errors.
I rush to the rescue; for God has blessed me far above my countrymen, by
shedding the true light of the Gospel around my pathway, through the
instrumentality of good and holy men, whom He has chosen for His especial
service, and who have bestowed on me the priceless boon of a Christian
education. I am willing and anxious to devote every hour of my life, and
all my poor means, to the furtherance of His cause. Yet, though much may
combine in my favour, I am inadequate to the accomplishment of the good I
desire for my country, without the aid, wise counsel, and support of the
Christian inhabitants of Great Britain.
Reader! in the following pages I have endeavoured to depict as clearly as
I can the evil and the remedy. I have glanced over the leading features
of my life, to show how circumstances, trivial in themselves, appear to
have combined in my favour, that I should be an humble instrument in the
hands of my Maker, to work out a brighter and better hope for dear Syria.
That “pearl of great price,” pure Christianity, has been cherished and
nurtured within these isles till the true faith has reared itself up like
a mighty mirror, reflecting the glorious light of the blessed truths of
the Gospel far and wide. May one beam of charity, reflected from thence,
alight upon the mother church of Syria—that church now sunk in misery and
degradation, but from which (remember, O Christian of Great Britain) was
derived the glorious knowledge of an eternal salvation.
“The Thistle that _is_ in Lebanon” is the harassed, weak, yet simple
disciple of the Eastern Church; and “the Cedar that was in Lebanon” is
the true Church of Christ, whose seeds were first derived from those Holy
shores, and are now firmly rooted in England. The Thistle has sent to
ask thy daughter, Enlightenment, in marriage to her son, Simplicity. O
refuse her not lest the _wild beast_ in Lebanon should tread down the
Thistle and obtain the ascendancy.
CHAPTER I.
SCENES OF EARLY CHILDHOOD.
My earliest recollections are associated with the lovely and rural
village of Shuay-fât, my birth-place, on the Lebanon; and where, if not
the happiest, certainly the most innocent years of my childhood were
passed. My late father had no fixed residence at that place, but he,
with the rest of his family, usually resorted there to spend the summer
months and part of the autumn and spring. In winter the cold became
intense, owing to the elevated position of the village; consequently most
of its inhabitants and summer visitors, including amongst these latter my
own family, invariably wintered at Beyrout. My uncle, Sheikh Faris
Biridi, filled the important and respected post of _katib_, or secretary
to the Emir Beshir Shahab, the late prince of Lebanon, who resided at the
village of Deyr-al Kamar, situated a few hours’ journey from Shuay-fât.
At least three times a week my uncle’s duties compelled him to visit the
Emir. Sheikh Faris was universally respected amongst the villagers; his
house was the best—his grounds the most extensive, and he himself in
reality, an intelligent and well-informed man. For a Syrian, he was
deeply read and well skilled in the use of his pen; but above all, he was
an earnest and devout Christian, a kind father, and a good friend—virtues
which gained for him the esteem and love of all the neighbouring
villagers, as well Moslems and Druses as the Christians.
Under the favourable auspices of this kind man’s tuition, I first learned
to read and write my native tongue; and, as I was afterwards informed,
even at that early age, gave cheering proofs of an active mind, and
evinced an aptitude and love for the acquirement of knowledge. I could
not possibly have had a better guide, both as regards precept and
example. So long as I remained under his hospitable roof, his great and
chief care was to richly stock my young mind with doctrines well adapted
to promote the welfare of the soul in after years on all important
business. His household arrangements were an example for others. He was
an early riser himself, and insisted on all his household following this
healthful practice: his maxim was that sleep was for the dark hours of
the night—work and recreation for the light—prayers and thanksgivings for
all seasons.
My uncle was accustomed when at home to repair every morning, during the
spring and summer seasons, to the top of a neighbouring hill, which
commanded a view over an extensive range of country. On these occasions
it was my wont to accompany him. A servant preceded us carrying a small
carpet and a cushion or two; I carried my uncle’s pipe and tobacco-pouch
with flint, steel, and tinder, in one hand; in the other, the Kitab
Mukaddas, or Arabic Bible, printed in England, by the Church Missionary
Society. As soon as my uncle had seated himself, and assumed his pipe,
he would make me sit at his feet and read out to him from the good Book,
illustrating and commenting as opportunity occurred. The hundred and
fourth Psalm, than which none could be better suited to the time and
place, was usually his favourite.
From our elevated position, we could command a view, not only of our own
dearly cherished and beautiful hamlet, but also of many of the
surrounding villages. At our feet lay Shuay-fât, with its neat little
cottages and cleanly swept court-yards, surrounded by a dense little
forest of mulberries, oranges, lemons, apricots, olives, countless vines,
and many other fruits; the dark leaves of an occasional poplar lending
variety to the beauty and shading of the foliage. Not a man, woman, or
child, moved to and fro in the narrow little streets, but their names and
occupations were well known to us. The dogs wagged their tails in happy
recognition of my shrill sharp whistle, and a thousand echoes caught up
the signal. The verdant hills and valleys that surrounded us were
thickly dotted with cattle and sheep contentedly browsing upon the rich
pasturage. Peeping over the densely wooded plantations, the tops of the
little whitewashed houses pointed out the locality of some well-known
village. Clear streams of water sparkling in the glowing sunlight, often
intersected the plains and valleys, or rushed headlong down the steep
sides of some deep dell, abounding with wild flowers and myrtle bushes.
Far below, where the distant fields in square patches of variegated hues,
green bespangled with blue and crimson flowers; sometimes covered, like a
sheet of pure gold, with countless buttercups, and sometimes in
uncultivated patches of sombre brown; but what I most dearly loved to
gaze at was the broad blue sea in the distance, looking so pleasantly
cool and calm, with here and there a patch of deeper blue, where the
breeze sportively ruffled the waves. I always thought of Nabiy Yunas {8}
and the great fish, and wondered if many such fish were yet taking their
pastime in the deep. How little I imagined at that time that I was
destined to traverse those mighty waters, and to suffer myself to be
borne away on their waves hundreds of miles from shore, exposed to raging
tempests in a fragile bark! Such a notion would then have been scouted
by all my friends; and I myself should have been foremost in deriding the
idea, and in opposing, that which has since proved conducive to my best
interests, temporal, and I trust eternal; but I was then a child, and
understood and acted as a child.
From this pleasant spot, my uncle gazed with rapture upon the surrounding
scenery, as the first rays of the sun peered above the snow-capped peaks
of lofty Lebanon, and spread a golden mantle over the vast panorama; from
my childhood, I have known how to appreciate the beauties of nature in
all their poetry; and I admire them still, but with a milder and more
subdued admiration.
“He sendeth the springs into the valleys, which run among the hills.”
This was a portion of a morning’s reading lesson; the force and beauty of
the verse were illustrated by everything around me. My worthy preceptor
would impress this fact upon my mind. The men, the cattle, the trees,
shrubs, flowers, birds, butterflies, even the most insignificant insect
that crawls upon the earth—all these are preserved, he argued, by the
bounty and beneficence of the Creator—without this water how would nature
subsist? In short the whole of that delightful Psalm seemed as though
expressly composed to illustrate the country around us, especially that
passage which says, “The cedars of Lebanon, which he hath planted; where
the birds make their nests.”
Thus profitably and pleasantly the early hours of the day would be
consumed. I was then dismissed with sage advice, to remember throughout
the day what I had read and heard; and my uncle being called away by his
avocations, I was left to amuse myself with my play-mates in the village,
until the hour of noon summoned us to our substantial mid-day meal. Like
most boys, we were prone to mischief. I remember a favourite game
amongst the village lads, which occasionally terminated in a squabble,
and was known by the name of Al Cadi, or The Judge. The Cadi was chosen
by lot, as were the officers of his court, and the imaginary plaintiffs
and defendants. Squatted on the ground, under the pleasant shade of some
mulberry-tree, we then held a court. Sentence was recorded and executed;
and sometimes the boy who personated the imaginary criminal was sentenced
to be bastinadoed. On these occasions, the executioners laid about them
so smartly with the light switches of the mulberry and olive, that though
the boy’s shoes were never removed, the lash penetrated to the sole of
the foot, and then the pretended culprit, smarting from pain, would lose
all command over his temper; a _melée_ would ensue, which outraged the
dignity of the court, and usually terminated by all the members, the Cadi
included, being summarily whipped for their naughtiness.
When the hour of mid-day was announced by the striking of gongs, which in
Syria are usually substituted for bells at some churches, all our family
assembled for _futar_, and my uncle would enter, followed by the peasants
employed about his plantations, together with his other servants. This
was the signal for the cook and her assistant to carry into the centre of
the yard a large iron cauldron, containing the _ruzz-mufalfal_, or
whatever was prepared for the day for the supply of the whole household.
Clean shining platters were ranged in piles round this cauldron, and a
blessing having been first asked, the food was ladled out—a goodly
portion for each—enough and no waste. The only distinguishing mark at
this family meal was, that the members of my uncle’s family were all
seated round a low circular table, and reclined upon carpets and against
cushions. The others sat where their fancy dictated; but they chiefly
crowded under that side of the court-yard wall which afforded a shade
from the heat of the sun. In addition to the contents of the cauldron,
there was generally a dish of stewed meat and vegetables; or (if the
season was Lent), of the egg-vegetable, or _batinjan_, and the
vegetable-marrow, sliced and fried in oil—with as many cucumbers,
pickles, lettuces, radishes, and young onions, as any one wished and
asked for. During the repast, one of the servants usually stood at the
door to watch for any poor wayfarers who might pass, to ask them to
partake of our hospitality. When all had finished, the fragments were
divided into equal portions amongst the cats and dogs of the
establishment; and what was left by them was given to the fowls and
sparrows. Our evening meal differed but little from that of the morning,
except on days when the national dish of _Kubbee_ {10} superseded
everything else. Then we had Kubbees in soup made of _laban_, or curdled
milk, and Kubbees fried, and Kubbees baked; for the Syrian can never tire
of eating of this delicious dish. The interval between mid-day and the
evening was occupied variously—but first came the indispensable siesta,
indulged in by men, women, and children. The men would then return to
their respective labours, while the women occupied themselves in
household matters, and most of the children were sent to the village
school; but for myself, my afternoons were occupied with our family
spiritual adviser, an excellent old man, who came daily and instructed
me, from the hours of two to four P.M. After supper, my uncle would sit
in state and receive the visits of the neighbours, who usually dropped in
for an hour or two every evening. They sat and smoked, and talked about
agricultural matters or village affairs; and sometimes one of the party
would tell an amusing story, and another would sing a song—sweetmeats,
coffee, and other refreshments being from time to time handed round—and
thus the evenings would be spent in pleasant harmless enjoyment. This,
with very little variety, is a faithful picture of what was our every-day
life at Shuay-fât: and so passed the years of my infancy.
I have omitted to make any personal allusion to the various members of my
family. I hope, however, that I shall be pardoned in making a slight
reference to my uncle’s lovely daughters, nine in number; these fair
cousins of mine outrivalled each other in beauty and amiable qualities,
and each had a trait of beauty peculiar to herself. In Syria, it is the
custom to distinguish the various members of a family by a soubriquet,
which has reference to some perfection or failing. Thus our groom,
Yusuf, who limped a little, was called “_Topal_,” or the lame; and one of
my cousins, “_Al Shams_,” or the sun, owing to her very bright eyes;
whilst another, who had mild blue eyes, was designated, “_Al Kamar_,” or
the moon. _Al Kamar_ was so noted for her beauty and sweet disposition,
that two of the chiefs of Lebanon sought her hand in marriage—and this,
though they had never seen her; but _Al Kamar_ was not ambitious of
honors and riches. The creed of the sheikhs also differed widely from
her own; so she refused them both. All these nine daughters are now
married and settled in life; so I take leave of them with a fervent
prayer, that the Almighty may graciously watch over them, and crown their
end with eternal happiness.
Shuay-fât, like most of the surrounding villages, produces a large
quantity of silk; but it is in particular celebrated for the excellence
of its wine, its olives, and olive-oil. Of the first, I can affirm, that
I have, in after-years, heard good judges of wine, when quoting its
excellence, refer to it as verifying the words of Hosea (xiv. 7), “The
scent thereof shall be as the wine of Lebanon.” It is certainly very
odoriferous. The olives and olive-oil are not to be surpassed in all
Syria.
The inhabitants, both men and women, are a fine, healthy people, and the
males are particularly athletic. To describe them well, I cannot use
better or more appropriate language than that of the prophet Ezekiel
(xxxi. 3), “Behold, the Assyrian was a cedar in Lebanon with fair
branches, and with a shadowing shroud, and of a high stature.”
Yet with all these combined advantages, of health, a delicious climate,
and a fertile soil, many of the poor peasants are oppressed and
miserable. This arises from the iniquitous system of extortion practised
on them by land-owners and subordinate officers. It must, however, be
confessed, that the mountaineers are, to a certain extent, more
independent than the inhabitants of the plains, who are ridden over
roughshod by the petty and tyrannical under-strappers in office.
I had barely attained my tenth year, when, much to my grief, I was
removed from the family of my kind uncle, and taken to Beyrout, there
permanently to reside; but, alas for short-sighted mortals, an event was
even then brewing, which burst like a tempest, over the Beyroutines, and
which materially affected my father’s plans and wishes with regard to my
future career in life.