grape, 232
Cholera, 224
Chuppering, rules of, 259
Chupper khana, interior, 25
a, 386
whip, 22
Church Missionary Establishment, 165
Church Missionary Schools, 144, 163
Church Missionary Society, educational work of, 144
Church of England, 166
Jesuits, 143
Civil suits, 189
Claim to sanctity of Armenians, 73
Classical Persian, 278
Clay biscuits, 334
Cleanliness of Persians, 316
Clemency, royal, 317
Climate, variable, 339
Clothes of Persians, 318
Cocculus indicus, 129
Coffee à la Turca, 6
Coinage, new, 371
Collars, difficulty of washing, 153
College at Ispahan, 196
Teheran, 338
Collins, Sergeant, 293
place of murder of, 351
Colonel Prideaux, 346
Colt, anecdote of a, 103
grey, 239
Comfort of travelling, 55
Common flowers, 172
Complexion of women, 324
Compliments, Persian, 28
Concubines, 326
Confiscation, 155
Constantinople, 5
Conversation with king’s son, 165
Cook, my, tries to take priest’s orders, 139
Cooks, 297
Cook-shops, 298
Coral reef, 342
Cossack regiments, 370
Cost of living, 186
Costume, Persian, 317
of women, 322
Court costume, 50
Courtiers, 199
Cream, mode of obtaining, 171
Credit, 188
Crickets, mole, 216
Crops, 173
Croquet lawn, 167
Crucifixions, 204
Cruelty to horses, 329
to a nun, 140
to Yari, 78
Cruelties to Mirza Naim, 272
Crying off, 188
Cucumber jam, 92
Cuisine, Persian, 296
Curdled milk, 171
Curio buying, 332
Curious accident, 128
ring, 376
Cursing Baab, 155
Curtain in Armenian church, 140
Custom-house, 267
Custom of Shiraz, 379
the Kūrūk, 370
Cut straw, 174
Cyrus, tomb of, 355
D⸺, Mr., 51
Damage to telegraph line, 113
Damascening, 189
Dar, the, 201, 282
Darius, treasure of, 78
Daroga, the, 371
Day in Ispahan, 200
Day of Judgment, picture of the, 161
Debauchee, a, 244
Decorated pond, 50
Decorations, church interior, 160
Dehbeed, 356
tax-man at, 133
Delleh, 69
Demarvend, 373
Dervish and puppets, tale of, 285
at tomb of Hafiz, 278
Dervishes, 42
at Tazzia, 281
garden, 46
hats, 44
horn, 46
mode of begging, 44
vices, 46
vows, 43
Desht-i-arjeen, 350
Diana, temple of, reputed, 107
Dig for treasure, we, 79
Dilgoosha, 220, 274
Dinner on road, 107
sent away, 245
with a Persian prince, 114
Discipline, 71
Disguise of robbers, 264
Dispensary, my, 200
over the prison, 182
Doctors, 33
Doctors, studies of, 338
Dog-cart, my, 248
Dog, loss of, 129
Dogs, varieties of, 306
Doherty, Mr., 401
Dome, tiled, 196
Donkeys, 365
handsome, 342
Doogh, 171
Doong, 391
Door, substitute for, 394
Doors at Erzeroum, 213
silver, 196
Double snipe, 107
Dozd-gah, 262
Dr. Hoernle, 163
Dr. Odling, 351
Dressel’s, 408
Dresses of honour, 51
Dress of dervishes, 43
Dried bread, 336
fruits, preparing, 169
Drink in Julfa, 141
Drive to Ispahan, 373
Drunkards, Persian, 141
Dubbeh, 188
Ducks, wild, 176
Dunaberg, 407
Dung beetles, 216
Duration of journey, 412
Durbend, 404
Dyah, 326
Dying twice, 203
Early rising, 33, 116
Eating opium, 181
Ecbatana, 80
Economy of trading class, 172
Educated women, 339
Education, 337
of Armenians, 144
Effects of Bastinado, 148
Egglesiah Wang, 138, 157
Embassy, the English, 372
Embroideries, 333
Enamels, 331
English missionaries, 155
Engraving on metal, 332
seal, 184
Enzelli, 210, 402
Episcopal throne, 160
Erivan, 19
Eructation, politeness of, 91
Erzeroum, 212
Esther, tomb of, 75
Etiquette, 28
Evil eye, the, 325
Exaggeration, 315
Execution of a Baabi, 154
of a Prince, 125
of a woman, 275
of women, 122
Executions, 202
Expelled nun, 163
Expenses, our, 187
Eyebrows, painting the, 325
Eyn-ul-Molk, 38
Fair hair at a discount, 324
Faithless women, fate of, 275
Faizabad, 356
Fallen fruit, 311
Fals, 277
Famine, 251 to 255
at Ispahan, 253
at Kūmishah, 254
at Shiraz, 253
grain seized during the, 252
rise in mule-hire during the, 251
Fantails, 94
Fards, use of, 323
Farnooses, 115
Fars, 272
Fast of Ramazan, 284
Fasts, Armenian, 144
Father, the, 314
Fathmeh, 387
Fee, compulsory, of a vizier, 255
Feen, 386
Fellek, 147
Fellow-travellers, Persian, 215
Felt coats, 152, 320
Feramūsh Khana, 124
Ferhad and Shireen, 119
Feridan, 131
Fermenting of wine, 232
Ferns and bush vegetation, 400
Fight amongst robbers, 265
Fighting rams, 308
Figures of (?) Fame, 119
Finn, Mr., 310
Firdūsi, 338
Fire temple, 364
Firewood as a crop, 364
weighing, 25
Fireworks, 377
Firman, Royal, 257
First cousins, 326
fruits, 168
professional, visit, 41
Fish in hot spring, 348
in kanāats, 128
poison, 129
poisoning, 386
Flap-jacks, 335
Flat, the, 405
Flirtations, the Prince’s, 280
Flowers, common, 172
near Caspian, 400
wild, 173
Foods of poor, 336
Forests near Caspian, 400
Forged antiquities, 76
Fortune-tellers, 120
Freehold, my cheap, 206
Frogs, 398
Frozen wine, 58
Fruit, fallen, 311
Fruits, 168
“Furder,” 126
Furniture, black-wood, 345
want of, 123
Fussa, 240, 243
fertility, 247
Governor of, 244
Futteh Ali Shah’s family, 59
G⸺, Colonel, 2
G⸺, Mr., 97
Gambling in Pera, 9
Game, 299
Games, 97
Gardening, 309
Garden-parties, 311
Gardens at Shiraz, 223
Gate of Royal Garden, 198
Gelim, 152
Georgian ladies, 17
Gersteiger Khan, the Baron, 370
Gez, 158, 383
Ghilān shoes, 399
Gholam, a bold, 178
Girls’ school, 165
Goggles, 54
Golden pipes, 112
Goldsmid, Sir F., 56, 157, 417
Goor Khur, 308
Gougas, 127
Governor of Fars, 135
Fussa, 244
Governor’s garden, 199
Grain, extracting, 174
stores, curious, 385
Grape feeding of horses, 103
sugar, 171
Grapes as horse feed, 171
varieties of, 171
Grateful Armenian, 93
Graves, Armenian, 162
Great square of Teheran, 52
Gregor, Saint, 160
Greyhounds, 305
“Grimes,” 344
Guebre-abad, 385
Guebre gardener, 369
Gulf Arabs, 106
Gulhaek, 369
road, 36
Gūlpigon, 127, 132
Gulshan caravanserai, 200
Gūmrūkji, anecdote of a, 237
Gun at sunset, 284
Gunge, a, 77
Guns, blowing from, 202
Gurken, 216
Gymnastics, 98
H⸺, Mr., 128
Habashi, 326
Hadji, 121
Hadjiabad, 354
Hadji Ali Akbar, 229
Baba, 3
Kawam, 272
Khalleel, 109
Mahomed, 381
Saduk Ispahani, 192
Hadji Mirza Kerim, 192
Hafiz, tomb of, 276
Hailstones, large, 391
Hair of women, 323
wearing the, 321
Hajeeb, 392
Hakim-bashi, 201
princes, the, 145
Hamadan, 57, 64
vines at, 311
wine, 57
Hamilton poles, 301
Handicrafts, 189
Hansard, Captain, 343
Harem, the, 39
Hassir, 197
Hats, 223, 320
Headgear, 321
Head-rolling dervish, 43
Health of the staff, 296
Henna, 334
High priest, anecdote of, 290
Highway robbers, 263
Hippocrates, 82
Hissam-es-Sultaneh, 204
Hockey, Sergeant, 127
Hoernle, Dr., 163
Home-life of families, 92
Honesty of Ispahanis, 192
Hornet, death from sting of, 250
Horse-breaking, 352
Horse clothing, 90
feed, 102
market, the, 201
Horses, breeds of, 104
grape feeding on, 103
height of, 100
on grass, 103
price of, 106
Hospitality, strange want of, 267
Hotel at Kasvin, 395
de Byzance, 212
Hot spring, 348
Houssein and Hassan, 279
Khari, 201
Kūli Khan, death of, 262
name of, 281
House-building, 126
House, I buy a, 206
snakes, 307
Huge tent, 280
Hughes, Mr., 127
Hunting party, 84
I am mobbed, 82
I am robbed, 263
Ibrahim, 383
Ice, cheapness of, 246
mode of making, 241
Ices, 240
I commence the cornet, 72
I decorate a house, 206
Idleness of Armenians, 359
I fall among brigands, 259
Illness, 207
of Zil-es-Sultan, 255
Imādieh, 118
Imād-u-Dowlet, 108
looted, 119
Imād-u-Dowlet’s bad son, 124
Imām-i-Juma, 153, 199
Imām Riza, 387
Imāmzādeh Hāshem, 400
Immorality of Armenians, 138
pigeon-flying, 94
Impregnable village, 262
Impromptu entertainment, 312
Indelicate dress of ladies, 40
Indian lottery, 340
Industry of Armenian women, 360
Infants, 325
Inlaid work, 332
Interest, rate of, 76
Interior of house of a grandee, 39
mosque, 97
Intricate carpentry, 39
Intrigues of Shiraz women, 276
Ironing, 333
Iron poles, 301
Irregular cavalry, 266
Irreligion common, 339
Irrigation, artificial, 127
Iskender, 378
Ispahan, 215
arrival at, 135
Ispahan bridge, 135
cobs, 105
Ispahani, honesty of, 192
Ispahan priests, 197
start for, 127
Istikhara, 277
Istikhbal, 56, 109
J⸺, Colonel, V.C., 217
J⸺, Mr., 387
Jack and Jill, 83
Jade teapot, 201
Jaffir Kūli, 381
Jahn-i-ma Garden, 276
Japanese embassy, 377
Jars of sweets, broken, 258
Jeddah, 342
Jejim carpets, 152
Jesuits, church of, 143
Jewelled belts, 320
wand, 258
Jewellery, 323
Jewish sacrifice, 258
shrines, 75
Jews, 74, 146
at Erzeroum, 213
burial-ground, 293
oppression of, 146
thrown into tank, 52
treatment of, 377
Jika, the, 322
Johannes, Mr., 144, 163
Jokes of robbers, 267
Journey home, 208, 381
through Turkey, 213
Juba, the, 318
Judicious bishop, 139
Julfa, 135, 137
ancient, 161
cathedral, 157
cemetery, 162
customs, 359
doorways, 142
emigration, 143
nunnery, 139
origin of, 161
priests, 363
quarters, 206
Justice, 146
Persian, 295
Kabobs, 89, 297
Kafsh, 321
Kah, 174
Kah-gil, 369
Kahtam, 332
Kakheite wine, 18
Kalāat, meeting the, 255
my, 258
of Kawam, 258
Kalam-dan, 288
Kalian, 15
Kalians, details as to, 29
Kalifa, Kuchek, 138
Kammer, 142
Kanāats, 127
Kangawar, fish in, 128
temple at, 107
Kanjar, 320
Karabagh, 219
horses, 105
Karageus, 6
Kara Sū, the river, 108
Kashan, 385
Kashish Mardyros, 141
Kasim, wedding of, 282
Kasvin, Syud at, 208
Kawam, 257
Kalāat of, 258
Kawamabad, 355
Kawam-u-Dowlet, 239
Kawam-ul-Molk, 270
Kazerūn, 349
Keesa, the, 334
Kemball, Sir A., 208
Kemmerbund, 320
Kemmercheen, 318
Kerbela, 271
Kerbelai, 387
Kermanshah, 109
cheapness of, 112
Kerman shawls, 162
wine, 235
Kerrij, 27
Kerrind, 126
Khana Zinyūn, 225, 351
Khan Wakeel, 243
Khedkhoda, a, 268
Kherrah, 393
Khona Khora, 260
Khonsar, 131
Khosro Mirza, 203, 205, 217
Khyat, a, 191
“King Panther,” 45
King’s palace, 49
poet, 51
relative, 90
Kishmish wine, 159
Kit for Persia, 3
Knitting socks, 142
Kōhrūd Pass, the, 384
Kola, the, 320
Mūschir, 222
Kolajah, 318
Konar Khora, 356
Koom (or Kūm), 387
Koomishah (or Kūmishah), 268
famine at, 254
Koordi tobacco, 33
Koran reading, 337
Kosh gūzeran, 223
Kossid, a, 355
Kotol, a, 282
Kotul Dokter, 349
Peri Zun, 350
Kotuls, the, 349
Kūh Sufi, 162
Kūm, 387
Kūmishah, 357
Kumrahs, 230
Kūrdi bread, 336
Kurrachee, 344
Kūrsi, 138
Kūrūk, the custom of, 370
Kuttl-i-aum, or general massacre, 272
Lady patients, 38
Shiel, 154
La Fontaine, M., 7
Lake Jeukjar, 18
Lallahs, 326
Law, teachers of the, 338
as to cheques, 239
muleteers, 382
Lawn-tennis, 369
Laying carpets, mode of, 152
Lazarist Fathers, 165
Led horses, 56
Lemur, 343
Letter, a Persian, 289
Lighted charcoal, mode of producing, 390
Lika-ul-Molk, 270
Lilium candidum, 173
Lilliane, 131
Lily, painting the, 173
Linga, 345
Lion and Sun, Order of, 258
country, 351
cubs, 222
the tame, 306
Lioness, story of a, 350
Lisbon, 341
Little bishop, 158
Living, cost of, 186
Lizards, 93
Lodahs, 231
Lost arts, 162
Lottery, Indian, 340
Lutf-Ali-Khan, 264
Lūti-pūti, 239
Lūtis, 306
Lying, 315
Macheelah plain, 347
Madame O⸺, 340
Mad dog, 83
Magazine rifle, 224
Mahomed Ali, 19
Mahomed’s pigeon, 94
Mahommed Ali Khan, 146
Houssein Khan, 19
Major S⸺, 208
Major’s dervish, the, 42
Major St. John, 350
Maker of antiquities, 201
Malek Mahommed Beg, 329
Malekneas Khan, 126
Managing Persians, 179
Man nailed to post, 112
nurse, 276
Manuring, 174
Marching by night, 353
in Persia, 413
March to Shiraz, 206
Mardiros, Kashish, 141
Mare, I buy a, 349
Marg, 269
“Marjahn,” 302
Marnūn, 364
Marriage of Armenian priests, 141
Martyr, a, 154
Mary’s flower, 173
Mashallah, 290
Masreh, 396
Mast, 171
Master of ceremonies, 49
of the mint, 369
Matting, varieties of, 197
Maxūd Beg, 268, 357
Mayar, 357
McGowan, Sergeant, 384
McIntyre, Sergeant, 357
McL⸺, Sergeant, 386
“Meana bug,” the, 26, 217
Medical missionary, 163
practice, 182
Medresseh, 338
at Ispahan, 196
Mehdi, 317
Mejdabad, 388
Melons, 169, 311
Memorial to Sergeant Collins, 295
Merand, 115
Merchants, 188
Meshed carpets, 149
Meshedi, 387
Aga Jan, 224
Mesrop, priest, 140
Milking sheep, 389
Millingen, Dr., 7
Minarets, the Shaking, 361
Minor crops, 174
Mir-achor, the, 103
Mirza Abdul Wahab, 145
Ali Akbar, 244
Hassan Ali Khan, C.I.E., 225, 242
Mahmoud, 271
Naim, 272
Zeynal Abdeen, 125
Missionary, American, 330
church, 165
medical, 163
M⸺, M., 210
Moallim, a, 337
Mob of boys, 393
Mocha coffee, 298
Modakel, 66, 81
Modern college, 338
Mohurrim, 279
Mokhlis caravanserai, 182
Mole crickets, 216
Money table, 63
Mongoose, 303
Monk, the, 159
Monteforte, Count, 371
Month of fasting, 284
mourning, 279
Moollah, Hadji Ali Akbar, 229
Moonshee, the, 81
Mordecai, tomb of, 75
Morning rides, 64
Mortar, blowing from, 203
Mortaza Ali, plane of, 364
Moscow, 211
Mosque, interior of, 197
I put up in a, 131
ruined, 177
sleepers in, 197
tile, 197
Mosquitoes, 340
Mote and beam, picture of, 161
Mother, the, 314
Mothers-in-law, 326
Motummad-ul-Molk, 271
Mouth cloth, 132
M. P⸺, 331
M. Schwab, 401
Mr. Ayrton, 5
Mud as mourning, 126
Muggerpir, 344
Mule-buying, 127
Mules, bargaining for, 381
worn out, 193
Muleteers’ manners, 381
ponies, 347
Mūllas, 198
Mūllavi, the, 380
Mumbar, 197
Munjil, 399
Mūrb ab, 401
Mūrchicah, 374
Murder of a Syud, 265
Mūrghab, 355
carpets, 151
Mūschir, 240, 257
bastinadoed, 271
Mūschir’s coachman, 352
life attempted, 271
Mūschir-ul-Molk, 270
Mūshtaheds, 188
Musical amateur, a, 312
Musicians, 114
and singers, 91
Musjid-i-Shah Ispahan, 135
Mussulman converts, 164
My cornet-playing, 71
Myedesht, 126
My first horse, 62
“hold-all,” 55
house in Julfa, 206
landlord, 360
road, 363
Mystery of a Persian traveller, 225
Naib-ul-Ayalut, 120
Naksh, 131, 325
Naksh-i-Rūstam, 119
Name of God in conversation, 290
Houssein, 281
Nammad carpets, 152
coats, 152
Narghil, 30
Narrow escape, 203
Nastorange, 309
Natanz, 373
Native agents, 71
bits, 54, 329
Natural hot bath, 348
Needlework, 334
New coinage, 371
year, 48
festival, 51
presents, 379
Night marching, 353
Nishan, the, 250
Nose rings, 323
Nawalla, 103
Nude dervish, 43
Nummud, 40
Nun, cruelty to a, 140
expelled, 163
Nunnery, 139, 163
scandals at, 140
school, 140, 163
Nuns, 163
prayers of the, 139
O⸺, Madame, 340
Odd disorders, 65
Odling, Dr., 351
Oil lamps, 75
paintings, 377
Old Woman, pass of the, 350
Omar, ridicule of, 283
Omen, mode of taking, 277
Omens, 277
Opera at Moscow, 211
Opium, 180
adulteration of, 180
collecting the, 173
eater, an, 380
eating, 181
packing, 181
preparation, 180
Orcheeni, 269
Ordinary executions, 202
Orphanage at Shiraz, 253
Orphans, fate of, famine, 253
Orūssēe, 57
Our cook, 379
telegraph staff, a grievance of, 133
Out-door costume of women, 325
Oysters at Kurrachee, 345
P⸺, Mr., 70, 225
Packing opium, 181
Pah Chenar, 397
Painters, 200
Painting, 333
the eyebrows, 327
the face, 41
the lily, 173
Paintings in cathedral, 160
Palaces, summer, 372
Palgrave, Mr. Gifford, 212
Pane, 302
Paraphrase, a, 285
Partridges sold alive, 221
tame, 308
Pass of the Old Woman, 350
of the Virgin, 350
Passanghūm, 387
Patient, a grandee, 243
Peacocks, 376
Pehliwans, 98
Pera, 8
Perhan, 322
Peri-bazaar, 210, 401
Persepolis, Ussher on, 217
Persian cat, 305
character, 314
cleanliness of the, 316
colonel, 80
consul, 15
costume, 317
court, 49
cuisine, 290
dinner, 91
drunkards, 141
Gulf to Ispahan, 347
justice, 121, 295
letter, 289
lying, 60
medicine, 33
opium, 181
patients, 64
prince, dinner with a, 114
home of a, 113
proverb, 123
Relief Committee, 252
roads, 22
sick-room, 244
singers, 114
tea, 16
woodcut (in _facsimile_), 287
Persia viâ Trebizonde, 212
Petrovsk, 404
Phantom cheese, tale of the, 172
Pharaoh and the magicians, 378
and the Red Sea, 378
Photography, 331
Pickles, 171
Pictures, the bishop’s, 159
Pierson, Capt. W.H., R.E., 32, 56, 269
death of his horse, 61
Pierson’s house, 57
stud, 61
Pigeon-fanciers, 95
flying, 95
ornaments, 96
shooting, 129
towers, 130
Pigeons, breeds of, 94
in kanāats, 129
Pig, wild, 177
Pig’s flesh, 179
“Pig-sticking,” 176
“Pip,” 347
Pipe at departure, 16
Pipes, details about, 29
Piræus, 212
Plane trees, 196
of Mortaza Ali, 364
Plaster work, 39
“Pocrat,” 82
Poetry, 285
at schools, 338
quoting of, 288, 338
to produce sleep, 286
Pole-buying, 80
Police, new, at Teheran, 371
Politeness of Zil-es-Sultan, 366
Pollak, Dr., 182
Pomegranates, 310
Poosseen Afghan, 319
Poppies, 173
Porcupines in kanāats, 129
Pork as an aphrodisiac, 399
wild, 179
Port Said, 342
Post, a man nailed to a, 112
Post-house, a night in a, 25
Post-houses, interior, 25
Posting, rate of, 328
rules for, 24, 259
Post-stages, length of, 23
Potatoes, a novelty, 170
Potters, 191
Preparation of opium, 180
Presentations at court, 151
Present of an arm-chair, 123
a fig, 179
sweetmeats, 111
Price of Persian opium, 181
provisions, 187
Prideaux, Colonel, 346
Priests, Armenian, 197, 199, 363
Primitive forms of church, 140
Prince’s flirtations, 280
hakim-bashi, 145
physician, 145
Prison, dispensary over the, 182
Prisoners, 199
Procrastination, 315
Property, 120
Proverb, a Persian, 123
Provincial grandee, 89
Provisions, price of, 187
Pseudo-masonry, 124
Public at a tazzia, 280
Pulad, 332
Pul-i-Dellak, 388
Pul-i-Kojū, 195
Pulpit, 197, 279
Punishment of “the sticks,” 146
Put up in a mosque, 131
Quail-shooting, 90
Quarantine, 4
Quarters at Julfa, 206
Quinces, 170, 310
Quinine, 70
a general taking of, 398
Quotation of poetry, 288
Racecourse at Ispahan, 364
Races at Teheran, 214
Rahim Khan, 73
Railway, Moscow to Petersburg, 211
Rain, 175
Ramazan, fast of the, 284
Rammals, 120
Rams, fighting, 308
Raphael, a suspicious, 161
Rawlinson, Sir H., 109
Reading poetry, 145
Real ancient relic, 80
Red tape, 317
Réflet Métallique, 191
Relations of master and servant, 326
Religion of people, 339
teachers of, 338
Religious affectation, 285
toleration, 339
Removal of ancient building, 364
Repudiation, a, 273
Resht, 210
embroideries, 333
Resht-i-Behesht, 226
Respect to parents, 314
Rev. R. B⸺, 340
Riding-trousers, Persian, 322
Ring, a curious, 376
Ripsimeh, St., 160
Rise of the Zenda Rūd, 194
River Kara Sū, 108
Road-cooking, 107
Road to Shiraz, 217
Roads in Turkey, 213
want of, 248
Robber-chief, 264
Robbers, 263
alarm of, 130
fate of, 269
fight amongst, 265
Rock sculptures, 119
Rodolphe, 162
Roman Catholic Armenians, 166
Rookhnabad, 218
Rookhni, spring of, 241
Room-fellow, a would-be, 246
Roseh-Khana, 283
Rose-water, 309
Ross, Colonel, 346
Rotten Row of Shiraz, 219
Row at the bath, 71
Royal bounty, 51
edict, 63
farrashes, 51
firman, 257
ornaments, 50
Rūbandah, 334
Rūdbar, 399
Rudeness of Zil-es-Sultan, 367
Ruhdesht, 176
Ruined bazaar, 200
mosque, 177
Running footmen, 370
Russian bread, 18
cigarettes, 340
goods, 373 (Appendix D.)
Russian passengers, 10
post-house, 13
steamer, 9
subjects in Persia, 159
wines, 10
Rūstumabad, 209
S⸺, Captain, 179
S⸺, Colonel, 208
S⸺, Mr., 340, 385
Saadi, a moral tale of, 277
at schools, 338
tomb of, 278
Sacred trees, 364
Sacrifice of an ox, 258
Saddle-bags, 22
Saddle for riding post, 4
St. George’s church, 143
St. J⸺, Captain, 225
St. John, Major, 350
St. Michael, picture of, 158
Saint, shrine of a, 362
Salaam, the, 51
Salt lake, 247
marsh, 393
Samovar, 311
Sana, 108
Sanctuary, 137
Sang, 334
Sangak bread, 334
Sarhang, the, 80
Sau-sau-Rac, 274
Scandals at nunnery, 140
Scars on horses, 61
Scenery in North Persia, 397
School discipline, 337
Schools, 163
Schwab, Mr., 401
Scorpions, 249
stings of, 249
suicide of, 249
varieties of, 249
Sealing, 184
Seals, 184
Securing doors, mode of, 142
Segah, the, 326
Seidūn, 260
Sergeant Collins, 293
Hockey, 127
Sergipatoffski, Mr., 214
Serrum-u-Dowlet, 112
Servants, 67
honesty of, 313
posting, 260
wages, 67
Severe governors, 206
Shah Abbas the Great, 161, 390
bribing the, 271
Paleng, 45
the, 50, 370
Shah’s tower, 402
Shahtirs, 370
Shaking Minarets, the, 361
Sharp ride, a, 208
Shashgird, 389
Shawls, 274
Sheep, 175
tics, 396
Sheif, 347
Sheikh, the, 380
Shemar, 283
Shiel, Lady, 154
Shiraz, 218
climate, 224
famine at, 253
game at, 221
gardens of, 223
ladies, 219
lambs, 220
pipe-clay, 334
priest, 140
unhealthiness, 224
water, 241
wine, 229
women, intrigues of the, 276
Shirazi, gaiety of the, 219
Shirts, 317
Shitūr Gūlū, 226
Shoemakers, 190
Shoes, 321
Shooting antelope, 88
from the saddle, 84
Shopkeepers, 189
Shrine at Kūm, 387
of a saint, 362
Shulwar, 321
Shūr ab, 387
Shūrgistan, 261
Shushan, the palace, 109
Sick-leave, 207
Sick-room, a Persian, 244
Signs of wealth of Imād-u-Dowlet, 112
Silence of young married women, strange, 132
Silver doors, 196
Singers, Persian, 114
Sinsin, 386
Sir A. Kemball, 208
H. Rawlinson, 109
F. Goldsmid, 56, 157
Oliver St. John, 350
Sitting, mode of, 318
Skilled house-decorators, 164
Slavery in Persia, 326
Sleepers in mosques, 197
Smoking, 31
Snakes, 307
superstition as to, 306
Snipe, 116
double, 107
Snow-chair, 272
in Turkey, 213
Socks, 321
Soh, 384
Souhāli, 326
Soup Gework, 143
Spears, 179
Spurious cavalry officer, 73
Staff, health of the, 296
Stages, list of, 411
Stanley, the traveller, 224
Steamer, Caspian, 211
Steelyards, 221
Stone doors, 142
mortars, huge, 360
Storing wine, 58
Story, Persian, 285
Story-teller, 44
Straw, cut, its uses, 175
Stripped, I am, 263
Students, cells of, 197
Studs of horses, 89
Substitute for bells, 139
Successful Armenians, 143
Suez, 342
Suffid Rūd, 400
Suicide of a scorpion, 249
Suleiman Mirza, 90
Summer palace, 372
Sunset gun, 284
Sunstroke, dangers of, 375
Supposed lioness, 35
Surmeh, 260
Susmani girls, 114
Susmanis, 108
Swamp, shooting in a, 117
Swollen eyes, 213
Syudabad Pass, 101
Syud at Kasvin, 208
Houssein, 71
Syuds, dress of, 320
Hassan and Houssein, 153
the three, their fate, 156
T⸺, Mr., 27
Tabriz maund, 220
Tager, 188
Takhtrowan, 368
Taking quinine, 398
Talár, 57
Talisman, 290
Talking lark, 94
Tame pigs, 302
Tame gazelle, 167
lion, 306
partridges, 308
Tanks, 198
Tannūr or oven, 335
Tarantass, 12
Tarantulas, 248
Tattooing, 323
Tax-man at Dehbeed, 133
Tax of turkeys, 144
Taylor, Consul, 212
Taziana, the, 380
Tazzia, 279
Tazzias, dervishes at, 281
T-cloths, marks on, 194
Teachers of religion and law, 338
Teetotaler, a, 380
Teheran, 28, 372
races, 214
Teleet, 136
Telega, 11
Telegraph office, 198
flight of Baabi women to, 154
Telegraph poles, wooden, 80
Temple at Kangawar, 107
Tenets of Baabis, 339
Tent for Tazzia, 280
pitching, 399
Tents, 107
“The Sticks,” 377
Thief-catching, 85
Thieves, gang of, 269
Thorns in feet, 267
Tiflis, 14, 17
“Tiger’s boy,” 341
Tiled dome, 196
halls, 197
mosque, 197
Tile inscription, 177
work gates, 372
Titles, 38, 289
Tobeh, 388
Toffee, expensive, 80
Token, custom of the, 250
Tomb of Cyrus, 355
Esther and Mordecai, 75
Hafiz, 279
Saadi, 278
Tombs of the Kings, 119
Tombstone bridges, 163
Toolahs, 306
Trade credits, 188
in Teheran, 373
Traders, economy of, 172
Trades, 197
Traffic in drink in Julfa, 141
Transit of Venus, 331
Trap-horses, 352
Travellers’ law, 132
Travelling in Persia, 413
when ill, 208
Treasure finding, 76
of Darius, 78
trove in Julfa, 361
Trebizonde, 212
to Teheran, 213
Trees, sacred, 364
Tsaritzin, 406
Tumbakū, 30
Tūmbūn, 324
Turkeys, 375
in Julfa, 144
Turkish barber, 6
chibouques, 6
coffee-houses, 6
saddle, 7
use of, 24
Turkomanchai, 27
Turkoman horses, 104
Uncleanliness of Armenians, 316
Ungrateful baker, an, 183
Uniform, I appear in, 48
in Russia, 15
Unleavened bread, 335
Unripe fruit, eating of, 168
Ussher on the Meana bug, 217
tomb of Cyrus, 355
Ussher’s description of Persepolis, 217
Usury, 192
Utū-Kesh, 191, 333
Vaccination, 363
Vails, 68
Valliāt, 366
Valley of Yezdikhast, 261
Value of land, 175
Van cats, 305
Variable climate, 339
Varieties of kabob, 297
Vassilliardes, M., 401
Vegetables, 170, 300
Vegetation near Caspian, 400
Veil, the, 325
Venus, transit of, 331
Vienna, stay in, 4
Virgin, Pass of the, 350
Virtuoso, story of a, 37
Visit to Baabis, 201
Imād-u-Dowlet, 112
Visits, Persian, 28
Viticulture, 310
Volga, the, 405
W⸺, Mr., 133
Wages of servants, 67
Walker’s road, 350
Walling up alive, wholesale, 203
Walton, Mr. H. V., 137, 167
Want of roads, 248
Washerman, the, 333
Watch-dogs, 306
Watch-towers, 177
Water-fowl, 301
Water-melons, 169
Water of Shiraz, 241
Water-pipes, 29
Wedding of Kasim, 282
We find treasure, 80
Weighing, 221
corn, 192
Weights, 220
Well of death, the, 275
Wheat, 174
White eunuch, 39
Wholesale and retail, 188
walling up alive, 203
Wild asparagus, 168
ass, the, 308
ducks, 176
flowers, 173
geese, 116
pig, 177
sow, 178
Wine, Cholar, 229
cost of, 234
jars, 230
Kerman, 235
Kishmish, 159
making, 232
mode of packing, 236
purity of, 235
sellers, Armenian, 142
Shiraz, 229
varieties of, 235
Winter room, my, 206
Wisdom of a judge, 184
Women, bastinadoed, 122
costume of, 323
educated, 339
execution of two, 122
hair of, 323
head-dress of, 131
of Shiraz, intrigues of, 276
out-door dress of, 325
Women, sentimentality of, 339
Woodcut, Persian facsimile, 287
Wrestling, 98
X⸺, Mr., 330
Yabū, 107, 348
Yakhjal, 240
Yapunjah, 319
Yari Khan, 78
Yarns, 329
Yezd, 162
marble, 114, 276
nammads, 152
Yezdikhast, 261, 357
Yezeed, 283
Yezeedis, 126
Young pigs, 178
Zalābi, 284
Zambūreks, 52
Zangi, Spring of, 241
Zenda Rūd, 135, 193
Zerejumah, 317
Zergūn, 260, 354
Zil-es-Sultan, 146, 154, 203, 205, 365
accident to, 255
and his dogs, 366
and the bear, 227
boat of, 248
character of, 366
conversation with, 155
dress of, 257
his kalāat, 258
illnesses of, 149
petition to, 155
politeness of, 366
procession of, 256
prospects of, 199
rudeness of, 367
Zinjan, 154, 272
Zoban-i-Gūngishk, 359
Zoological Gardens, 35
THE END.
WARD, LOCK AND CO., LONDON AND NEW YORK.
_BY THE SAME AUTHOR._
PERSIA AS IT IS.
BEING SKETCHES OF MODERN PERSIAN LIFE AND CHARACTER.
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