A GLIMPSE OF SPAIN
SURE enough the faith Nan had in her aunt was not without foundation,
for that very evening Miss Helen learned from her friend, Miss Selby,
that the next week an acquaintance was going as far as Poitiers, and
that there would probably be no difficulty in arranging to have her act
as chaperon to Nan and Mary Lee as far as that city.
"And really," Miss Selby assured Miss Corner, "it will be perfectly
safe to allow them to go on alone as far as Biarritz, for it is not
a long journey, and their friend will meet them. They can both speak
French fluently enough to get along perfectly, and I have several safe
addresses which I can give them in case their train should be delayed,
or in case their friend fails to arrive on time. I have an acquaintance
at Bordeaux and another at Biarritz, so in case of delay all they will
have to do will be to take a cab to either address. I will give them
notes of introduction so they will have no trouble whatever."
Miss Helen was enough of a traveler herself to feel that this would be
sufficient precaution, but Mrs. Corner demurred, and at first could
not be persuaded to give her consent to the girls traveling any of the
distance alone, but at last she yielded and wrote to Mr. Pinckney that
he might expect her two elder daughters to arrive at Biarritz on a
certain day, and the two set off in high spirits.
"It's such fun to go bobbing along the streets of Paris in a cab,"
said Nan, "to take your luggage along with you and not to have to
bother about street-cars or anything. I wish we had such nice cheap cab
service at home, don't you, Aunt Helen?"
"That is one of the advantages upon which I am afraid I do set a higher
value than my friends at home would have me. There are several things
on this side the water which I claim are advances upon our system at
home, and because I say so my friends often think I am unpatriotic.
But never mind. There is the Gare d'Orsay where we are to find Miss
Cameron. Look out for your pocketbook, Nan, and be sure not to lose
your ticket."
Miss Cameron was found promptly and in a few minutes the girls were
established in their train. They were glad to be able to whisper
together for Miss Cameron had a friend who was going as far as Orleans,
and who shared the compartment with them, therefore, Mary Lee and Nan
were not called upon to take part in the conversation.
It was still light when they reached the pretty town of Poitiers which,
set upon a hill, looked picturesque and interesting as the travelers
left the train and were borne up a steep incline to their hotel.
"It is a perfectly dear place," decided Nan enthusiastically. "We must
get some post-cards, Mary Lee, and send them off to mother and the rest
of the family."
"We mustn't forget poor old Jo," said Mary Lee. "I know she is missing
us this blessed minute."
"Who is Jo?" asked Miss Cameron.
"One of our school friends who came over with us. She won the prize
of a trip to Europe and has been with us right along." Nan gave the
information. "Tell us something about Poitiers, Miss Cameron."
There was nothing Miss Cameron would like better to do. She was a
teacher who was spending her vacation abroad and was enjoying it
hugely. She was neither young nor beautiful, but had a way with her,
Nan confided to Mary Lee, and both girls liked her. "I should like to
go to her school," Nan said to her sister.
"So should I," Mary Lee whispered in return. So they asked many things
about the school which was in Washington, and by the time they had
learned all they wanted to know, the top of the hill was reached and
they turned into a winding street which led to the quiet hotel where
they were to stay over night.
"When we have had dinner," said Miss Cameron, "we can go to the Parc de
Blossac where we shall see the people and hear the band. I'd like you
to see something of the town before we leave to-morrow. There are two
or three nice old churches and the little baptistry of St. Jean is said
to be the oldest Christian edifice still existing in France."
"I am sure I shall like to see that," declared Nan, who loved things
old and romantic. "I like the looks of this place, anyhow," she went
on. "It is perched so high and has an interesting air as if it had
looked out of its windows and had seen things. Then the people are
nice, wholesome appearing men and women, quite different from those you
see in Paris. Their faces are more earnest and good, somehow."
Miss Cameron looked pleased. "You are quite a critical observer, Nan,"
she said. "I quite agree with you, for I haven't a doubt but that your
impressions are correct. But here we are. We will not make toilettes,
but will only brush off the dust and have our dinners."
The dining-room was airy and pleasant, and the dinner good; after it
was over there was still daylight enough for them to find the way
easily to the Parc de Blossac. They discovered this to be a pretty,
restful spot, as they hoped it would be, and the hour they spent there
added to their pleasant impression of the little city.
They were up betimes the next morning for they wanted to make the most
of the few hours they should have. To the consternation of all three
it was ascertained that Miss Cameron, who was going in a different
direction, would be obliged to take an earlier train than the girls
would.
"I am so sorry," she said. "I was sure there would be a train south
before so late in the day, but as my friends, who are to meet me, will
have to drive some distance, I don't see very well how I can fail to
keep my promise of arriving on time."
"We shall do very well," Nan assured her. "We will ask very
particularly before we get on the train if it is the one for Biarritz,
and there will not be a bit of trouble, I am sure. We have very little
luggage, you know."
"And I am sure I can see that it gets on all right," said Mary Lee.
"I am so sorry," repeated Miss Cameron looking quite worried. "It
never seemed within the bounds of possibility that there should be no
train before that hour. If my friends were near telegraph offices and
such things I could wire them, but a French _chateau_ near only to a
small village is too unget-at-able for words."
The girls continued to protest that they would have no difficulty
at all, and finally Miss Cameron yielded to their protests that she
must leave them to take care of themselves, and at last waved them a
farewell from her car window. "Be sure you send me a card that I may
know you have arrived safely," were her last words, and they promised.
But it must be confessed that when they faced each other, two strangers
far from home and mother, they felt a little sinking at heart.
"Do you think we need sit here in this station for a mortal hour and a
half?" asked Mary Lee. "Couldn't we walk about a little?"
"I suppose so," Nan responded a little doubtfully, "but we must be sure
to come back in time. We've seen the cathedral and the baptistry. We
have seen the outside of St. Hilaire-le Grand, and the inside of St.
Radegunde and Notre-Dame la-Grande. We have been to the Parc de Blossac
and up and down a number of the streets. I wonder what else there is to
see that we could do in an hour."
"It is an awful walk up that hill and it is warm."
"I should say it was in a noonday sun. We might go a little way very
slowly. I have been longing to go up on that nice craggy place and look
down. When we get back we will buy some post-cards and send them off;
that will pass away the time."
They mounted the steep hill for a short distance, stood for a while
looking up and looking down, then returned to the station and started
toward the little stand where they had seen some post-cards. As Nan
opened the small bag she carried, she gave an exclamation of dismay.
"Mary Lee," she cried, "have you my pocketbook?"
"No," was the answer.
"It's gone." Nan looked hurriedly through her larger bag which held
their toilet articles, Mary Lee watching her anxiously. "It's gone,"
she repeated, "clean gone, and there is no time to go back and look for
it."
"Do you think you could have left it at the hotel?" Mary Lee asked. "We
could write and get them to send it if it is found."
"No, I am sure it is not there. I had it when we stopped to buy the
chocolate. I paid for that, you know. After we left that shop I
remember that the catch of my little wrist bag came unfastened; it
caught in something. I shut it up without looking, but the pocketbook
must have fallen out then, for it was right on top. Of course some one
picked it up and there is no use hunting for it; we haven't time. Thank
fortune! the tickets are safe, and the bulletin, or whatever they call
it, for the baggage."
"Had you much money in it?"
"About twenty-five francs and some loose change. Mother said I'd better
not carry more. I have a check which I am to get Mr. Pinckney to have
cashed for us, and if we need more it is to be sent, though mother
thought the amount of the check would be ample. How much have you, Mary
Lee?"
Mary Lee opened her purse and counted. "About ten francs and a few
centimes."
"That ought to take us through, if we don't have any delays or
accidents," said Nan, though she looked a little worried. "Fortunately
we have paid our hotel bill here, and we have those notes of
introduction that Miss Selby gave us. I have no doubt but that at one
of those places they would cash our check even if Mr. Pinckney should
fail to meet us, so it isn't quite as bad as it might be." She spoke
reassuringly, though she was in some doubt about the matter. "I am glad
we have that chocolate," she went on. "We won't get the post-cards,
for we have already sent one to mother from the hotel. When we get to
Bordeaux, instead of having a hearty meal, we can get some rolls or
something and save the money in case of an emergency."
Mary Lee said nothing, though she felt that Nan had been careless.
It was very like her not to look in her bag to see if all were safe
after it became unfastened. She was always so absorbed in what was
going on around her, and had not the exact and precise ways of her
younger sister. Mary Lee would never have budged till she was certain
that every article she carried was in place. Nan was grateful for her
sister's silence, for Mary Lee was not given to holding her tongue on
such occasions.
"I think that must be our train," remarked the latter. "I am sure one
is coming." She looked sharply to see that the umbrellas and bags were
not left, and followed the trunks till she saw them safely on the
train, then she climbed into place by Nan's side, breathing a sigh of
relief.
The two girls were silent for some time after the train began to move.
They felt rather depressed. All sorts of possibilities loomed up before
them. Presently Nan said, "I wonder if we have to change cars. I saw
that this train was marked Bordeaux, but I didn't see any Biarritz on
it."
"We'd better ask at the next stop. You do it, Nan; you are so much more
glib with your French than I am."
Nan made her inquiry in due course of time and found that the change
must be made. "But it is in the same station," she told Mary Lee, "and
our baggage is booked through, so there will be no trouble, the guard
says."
"I hope it won't be dark when we get to Biarritz," said Mary Lee after
a while.
"I am afraid it will be, but I am sure Mr. St. Nick will be on hand.
You know Miss Cameron telegraphed to him as soon as we knew what train
we should take. I had no idea that the train would take so many hours,
though, and neither did she. However, he will be there all right."
But in spite of her show of confidence, the elder girl did have her
misgivings, and the two were rather quiet as the daylight faded. They
ate their chocolate and rolls pensively, feeling rather ashamed at
having so frugal a meal till they saw two of their fellow passengers,
well-dressed personages, cheerfully supping upon like fare which they,
too, had providently carried with them.
"I don't believe it makes a bit of difference about doing such things
in France, at least," Nan whispered. "You know the French are very
frugal, and even well-to-do people practice economies we would never
think of."
It was dark indeed when they left their train at Biarritz and Mary
Lee kept very close to her tall sister as they stood waiting on the
platform. "Suppose he isn't here," she said tremulously.
"Then we will take a cab to that address Miss Selby gave us," said Nan
bravely, though feeling a sinking of heart as she thought of doing even
that.
But at that moment a portly form approached and a hearty voice called
out, "There you are, you poor little chicks. I _am_ glad to see you."
"You aren't half as glad to see us as we are to see you," returned Mary
Lee fervently.
"Your train was an hour late," Mr. Pinckney told them; "but what can
you expect in this country?" he added.
"Oh, they are never late in ours, are they?" laughed Nan. "It is good
to see you, Mr. St. Nick. When I beheld your dear big round self coming
toward us I could have shouted with joy, for we were feeling a little
bit scared."
"Tut, tut, how was that? You don't mean to say you came from Paris
alone?"
"Oh, no, mother would never have allowed that, and she would never have
allowed us to venture anyhow, if she had known how things really did
turn out." She gave him an account of their journey ending with the
tale of her lost pocketbook. "And so, you see," she said, "we were a
little bit afraid we might not have enough to get through on, and we
hated to go to a strange _pension_ and not have enough money to pay our
way."
"Too bad, too bad," said Mr. Pinckney. "I ought to have come all the
way to get you."
"But that wasn't necessary," Nan told him, "and it is all over now.
It was only a scare and not a real danger, you see, for we had a most
quiet and uneventful journey from Poitiers. An infant in arms could
have taken it with perfect propriety."
"Especially if it had been in arms," put in Mary Lee.
"That sounds just like Miss Propriety, Prunes and Prisms," said Mr.
Pinckney. "Well, my dears, your rooms are all ready, and you have
nothing more to bother about from this time on."
"And is Miss Dolores with you?" asked Mary Lee.
"Left her at San Sebastian. It is nothing of a run there, you know. You
will see her to-morrow."
After this there was no more trouble, and the girls gave themselves up
to listening to the plans made for their pleasure. They were too tired
to lie awake long, but they awoke in the morning full of enthusiasm,
ready to enjoy the dainty breakfast prepared for them and served in
loveliest of gardens. Mr. Pinckney would not hurry them away before
they had seen the beautiful coast of the famous watering-place, and
insisted upon their having a little drive around before their train
should leave.
"And this is where the young King of Spain used to come to see the
queen when she was Princess Ena," Nan told Mary Lee.
"I wish they were here now," returned Mary Lee.
"You may have a chance to see them before you leave Spain," Mr.
Pinckney told her, "for they travel about a good deal."
"Before we leave Spain! Doesn't that sound fascinating?" cried Mary Lee.
"What! You think it will be fascinating to leave us?" said Mr. Pinckney
in pretended surprise.
"Oh, dear, it did sound so. No, indeed. I never want to be long away
from you and dear Miss Dolores, Mr. St. Nick," Mary Lee hastened to say.
"That sounds more like it," he answered.
"Are we going to stay right in San Sebastian?" asked Nan.
"For only a few days, then we are going further up the coast. Oh, you
will like it, you two. It is real typical Spanish life that you will
see and such scenery! Well, of course, we are not backward in boasting
of our own scenery, but we can't match these Spaniards. They are the
most frankly self-appreciative people I ever saw. Talk about American
self-esteem, it is nowhere. You'd think there was never a mountain, a
river, a valley, a field, a church or a house, a man, woman, or even
a donkey that quite came up to those on Spanish soil. It is amusing,
generally speaking, and I suppose it is what they mean by Spanish
pride, but I get a trifle tired sometimes of the everlasting bombast,
and have to do a little boasting on my own account that they may
understand they have a few half-way decent things on the other side
of the water. I like them, too. Hospitable, just like you Virginians.
Kind-hearted, courteous--again like you people from the Old Dominion.
All Dolores' kith and kin are prepared to take you in and give you as
good a time as can be had. There is nothing they won't do for you, and
do it gladly."
It was when they had arrived at San Sebastian that they first realized
that they were really in Spain. "See that dear donkey with panniers at
his sides," said Mary Lee.
"And that queer ox-cart," continued Nan; "no, it is cow-carts they have
in Spain. Don't they look like pictures of the old Roman carts?"
"They are practically the same," Mr. Pinckney told her. "You will find
that Spain retains many ancient methods and customs."
"And there is a woman wearing a mantilla, the first we have seen," Nan
went on. "Now, I know we are in Spain. What a beautiful blue, blue sea,
and how gay it looks on the Esplanade, do they call it? Oh, Mr. St.
Nick, it is a beautiful place. I am glad we are to be here for a few
days."
Miss Dolores came running to meet them, and bore them away to their
room next to hers in the pleasant hotel where they were to stop. And
then began the happiest of times, for if they were not driving around
the pretty town, they were walking on the Esplanade watching the crowds
of people from everywhere, or they sat on the piazza and saw the
gaily dressed guests come and go. So passed the rest of the week, and
then they left this favorite Spanish watering-place to go to a less
well-known, but no less interesting spot further along the coast.
There was wonderful scenery to be seen from the car windows the entire
way; great mountains towered above them, picturesque villages lay in
valleys below. Corn-fields either side the road reminded them of their
own Virginia. "It does me good to look at them," declared Nan. "I'd
almost believe myself near my own home if I didn't see a donkey or a
cow-cart every little while."
"Do you see that gray building perched away up there?" Mr. Pinckney
directed her attention to a monastery crowning a hill. "That was built
in the tenth century. It is nearly a thousand years old."
"Dear, dear, how very young I feel," laughed Nan.
"It makes me feel very young myself," declared Mr. Pinckney. "I am a
mere infant compared to this old civilization."
"There's the sea, the sea! and the mountains go almost down to meet
it," cried Nan. "This surely is grand scenery; I don't wonder they
boast of it. Now, it is like waltzing with Willy; we go round, around,
around. Ah, we are going up again. There is another tunnel ahead. We
stop at Bilbao to-night, you said. What is it like?"
"A nice clean little commercial city. Nothing very remarkable to see
there, but it is pleasant and cheerful as well as comfortable, a
well-ordered town. You will notice all the Spanish features there;
cow-carts and donkeys, women carrying trays of fish or bread on their
heads. Sometimes there will be a pair of wooden shoes on top of the
fish and an umbrella on top of the shoes. Everything is carried up
there, it seems, and they walk along quite unconsciously. Our rooms
look out on the Arenal, so you will have a chance to see the street
life of the cities before we go off into the provincial districts."
They reached Bilbao by dark, but from their windows they could look
down upon the brightly lighted streets, could hear the band play in the
little park opposite, and could realize that they were really in the
land of Don Quixote.
The next afternoon found them arrived in a pretty little village
nestled at the foot of the mountains. The great house into which they
were ushered was called the _palacio_, and was centuries old. A high
wall surrounded the garden where flowers blossomed the year round. The
bare floors were of oaken planks hewn by hand. Outside the windows the
balconies bore hanging vines or boxes of pinks, the Spaniard's favorite
flower. In the _patio_ pigeons strutted about, the little house dog
rested in the shade of the orange trees, and a thrush sang sweetly from
its cage hung in the doorway.
"It is something like California," whispered Mary Lee to her sister.
"Of course," returned Nan. "California was Spanish not so many years
ago."
It was but a few minutes before a girl a little older than Nan came
down to meet them. "E ahm glahd to zee you," she said smiling and
putting out her hand.
Miss Dolores laughed. "Mercedes has been practicing that sentence for
days. It is the only English she knows. This is my cousin, Mercedes
Cabrales," she went on, "and these," she spoke in Spanish, "are my
friends, Nan and Mary Lee Corner. You must all call each other by your
first name; we do so in Spain."
Mercedes led the way up the front stairs and took the girls into a
lofty room, rather scantily furnished but comfortable. There she left
them with a parting nod and smile.
Nan went to the window. "I see mountains everywhere," she said, "and
the sea is just over that hill, Mr. St. Nick says. That dismal creak
is not the hum of a large variety of mosquito, Mary Lee, but it is a
cow-cart. In these country places they wouldn't do away with the creak
for anything because otherwise how would they know when to wait on
the widest part of a narrow road till the cart coming in the opposite
direction had passed? Isn't it all queer and different from anywhere
else? There are two parrots next door; I hear them, and that must
be a chapel where the little bell is hanging in the belfry. I love
these balconies. The big ones are _gallerias_ and the little ones
_miradores_. There are lovely gardens behind all those stone walls, and
the roads lead on up, up the mountains. Mr. St. Nick has been telling
me all about it." And then Miss Dolores tapped at the door and they all
went down to meet Doña Teresa and her son Don Antonio.
[Illustration: CHAPTER V
A FIESTA]