=For Women.=--A widow wears for her first mourning dress, a black worsted
skirt and waist, made as simply as possible, and trimmed with folds of
English crepe; a small bonnet, made entirely of crepe, with a long crepe
veil falling in the rear to the knees, and for the first month a veil of
equal length covering the face. Inside the front of the bonnet is set a
white ruche of lisse, the unmistakable insignia of widowhood. If desired,
bands of hemstitched organdie may be worn without impropriety at wrists
and throat. Black kid gloves, a black-bordered handkerchief, black shoes
of soft dull finish complete the costume. After a year and a half or two
years, crepe-de-chine, lusterless silk, etc., may be worn in place of the
crepe-trimmed gowns, with black hats or bonnets, and dull jet ornaments.
Six months later, white and lilac may be used sparingly, and after six
months again, colors may be resumed if desired.
A married woman in mourning for child, sister, brother, or parent, wears
the above costume, with the exception of the white ruche in the bonnet.
Mourning should be worn for about the same length of time.
It is optional whether or not mourning be worn for infants. If so, simple
black, without crepe, is sufficient.
For a mother-in-law or father-in-law, black without crepe for one month
should be worn; to be followed by black and white, or gray, with lilac,
for another month.
Young unmarried women should not wear the black bonnet and veil. A black
gown trimmed with crepe, a hat trimmed entirely with crepe, small
face-veil of black net with a wide crepe border; black gloves, a
black-bordered handkerchief, and ornaments of dull jet are proper for the
first six months or year. For second mourning, white is used with the
black, and lilac.
Middle-aged, unmarried women wear what a married woman wears, with the
exception of the widow's weeds, and for the same length of time.
For an aunt, uncle, or grandparent, simple black without crepe, worn for
three months, is customary. Jewelry that is not noticeable may be worn
with this.
Children under fifteen should not be put into mourning. No girl under
seventeen should wear crepe.
=For Men.=--A widower, for the first eighteen months, should wear complete
suit of black, black lusterless silk cravats, white linen, cuff-links of
dull black enamel, dull black leather shoes, black gloves, and a crepe
hat-band. After a year, the band may be left off. For second mourning,
gray or black clothes, black-and-white silk neckties, gray gloves, and
white or black-and-white linen are proper.
Mourning for parent, child, sister, or brother is worn six months or a
year, according to desire. In these cases, also, the crepe hat-band is
used, but is narrower than that worn by a widower.
The custom of sewing a black cloth or crepe band on the left coat-sleeve
is not to be commended.
The Box Tunnel.