lying at anchor, or sailing in and out of the harbor, have very hazy
ideas concerning the rigging of any kind of craft. Well I remember in my
early days of being obliged to run down to the wharf to see where to
attach my topmast. Whether it belonged forward or aft of my mast I had
not the slightest remembrance, and yet scarcely a day went by without my
seeing a vessel in some form or other.
Boys are not the only persons, however, who look at things and do not
see them. The power of minute and careful observation is a rare quality,
and the majority of people go through life without forming the habit, or
indeed dreaming they have not made the best use of their sight.
For the benefit of the boys who belong to this class, and those less
fortunate ones living inland where yachts are unknown, I write this
chapter.
In several of our large cities, ponds are set apart for the especial
purpose of sailing toy vessels. They are the exclusive property of the
boys, and any fine afternoon in season, and frequently out of season, if
the ice does not interfere, crowds of boys may be seen sitting on the
edges of these “lakes,” intently watching the graceful fleet as it skims
lightly over the water. The sixty-acre lake in Prospect Park, Brooklyn,
and Conservatory Lake, Central Park, New York, are both set apart for
the owners of these miniature yachts; and it is wonderful how many older
people, as well as the boys themselves, take interest in this amusement.
[Illustration]
The building and sailing of tiny yachts is carried to a much greater
extent in England than in this country. There the Prince of Wales is
deeply interested in the sport, and has instituted a “Royal Yacht Club,”
presided over by himself, which has regular yacht regattas. These
regattas take place on Serpentine Lake, in Hyde Park, every summer, and
are considered quite important events. The yachts belonging to this club
are very elegant affairs, one of them being valued at $5,000, yet none
of them are over five feet in length.
We do not expect our boy readers to emulate their British cousins, but
with the following simple directions we feel confident they can, with a
fair amount of skill in the use of tools, and careful labor, make a very
respectable miniature yacht, which shall be correct as far as she goes
in both form and rigging.
In the fashioning of a miniature boat, the hull is the first thing which
claims our attention; and in making this, two elements are to be
considered, rapidity and stability.
The rapidity or ease with which a vessel moves through water, is gained
by a narrow hull—that is, narrow in proportion to its length—which, to
be sure, renders the vessel somewhat unstable; but this instability may
be overcome by loading the keel with lead. There is danger, however, of
carrying this to too great an extent, by lowering the vessel so much
that the friction against her sides more than counteracts the fine
proportions of her build. Hence a skillful designer reconciles these two
points.
There are two types of model recognized in yacht building: First, the
English cutter model, which is narrow, and quite deep in proportion to
width, with its keel heavily weighted to secure the necessary stability.
This model is best adapted to rough cruising in strong winds and heavy
seas, such as prevail on the English coasts.
Second, the American: This, our model, is much wider, or, in nautical
phrase, has much more beam in proportion to length and depth. Indeed, it
is often so shallow as to merit the term “skimming-dish,” ofttimes
applied to this class of vessels.
These boats are usually fitted with center-boards, which can be lowered
or raised according to the need of the moment, instead of the deep keel
of the English model, American vessels having the advantage of smoother
water in which to make their cruises. The sheltered surface of Long
Island Sound and the bays which adjoin it at either end, afford
excellent sailing grounds for those owned in New York and the vicinity.
For the toy boats our boys may desire to make, a medium between these
two types will probably be found preferable in practice.
The center-board may be ruled out at once, as both itself and the well
in which it plays would require more time and patience in their
construction than most boys would care to give.
It is much better to have your boat too wide than too narrow, as a
capsize is far more disconcerting to the average young yachtsman, than a
slight inferiority of speed.
For a sloop yacht, the greatest width should be about one-third the
length; and the point of greatest width, or beam, should be somewhat
nearer the stern than bow.
Probably the best way to make a toy yacht is to procure a piece of wood,
which is about three times as long as it is wide and deep, and whittle
out your hull as your judgment or fancy may dictate; keeping in mind a
few essential points, however, to insure ultimate success.
First, draw a line from the middle point of one end to the middle point
of the other end of the top of the block; this will serve as a guide to
the bow and the center of the stern. Care should be taken not to make
your vessel too blunt at the bow; as a sailor would say, “the lines at
the bow should be _fine_ when they meet the water.”
The elegant appearance of the boat is increased by giving an overhang to
the stern, instead of running it up vertically; and if the young builder
is confident in the use of his tools, a sheer, as it is called, of the
lines at the top, or the gunwale, will add greatly to the grace of its
appearance. For the benefit of those who do not understand the meaning
of the word sheer, it may be explained that it is the gradual and
graceful downward curve from bow to stern, noticeable in the bulwarks of
vessels when seen from one side.
It is perhaps superfluous to add that great care should be taken to have
each side of the craft alike, for if a preponderance of weight is on one
side, the vessel will tip; while if the curve is unequal, she will not
sail evenly.
The hollowing out of the inside is most conveniently accomplished with a
sharp gouge and mallet, while the hull is secured firmly in a vise. When
this is finished, a hole should be made in the bottom to receive the
lower end of the mast, and care should be taken not to bore _through_
the hull, as it would be difficult to stop the ingress of water through
it.
We have now come to the keel, which must be firmly attached to the hull.
The best way to do this is to drive three slender brass screws through
the bottom of the boat, with ends projecting from one-fourth to one-half
an inch along the line of the proposed keel. Make a temporary box around
these, inclosing a space equal to the length and breadth of the keel,
with strips of thin wood, such as cigar-box wood; strips of heavy
pasteboard may answer the purpose sufficiently well. In either case this
mold should be firmly attached to the hull, in such a manner that after
casting the keel it may be readily removed. Perhaps the best way to
accomplish this is to paste it in place by means of narrow bands of
stout paper. The inside of the mold must be rubbed with oil or lard to
prevent the lead from adhering to its sides. This lead must be melted
over a very hot fire, so that it will not cool too rapidly upon entering
the mold, in which case it would not hold together as well. When cold,
the mold may be detached, and the keel will be held firmly in place by
the three screws.
The deck should be made of thin board, cut so as to accurately fit the
top of your hull. If a sheer has been given to the bulwarks, it is of
course much more difficult to fit the deck accurately, as it should
follow the curve. It will very likely be found necessary to _steam_ the
board used, to make it sufficiently flexible. It will be possible to use
stout pasteboard for the purpose, if both sides and edges are given a
couple of coats of paint, which treatment should also be applied to the
inside of the hole for the mast.
This hole should be placed very slightly farther astern than the hole
already mentioned, made in the bottom of the vessel. The effect of this
will be to give the mast a slight _rake_. This is always the case with
the masts of a schooner yacht, but builders of sloop yachts occasionally
omit the rake and “step” the mast in a vertical position.
The _bowsprit_ may be fastened by two staples made of small wire, and
driven down over it. One is driven down into the stem, or extreme
forward point of the hull, and corresponds to what is called the “gammon
iron” in a full-sized craft; the other secures the “inboard” end of the
bowsprit, or that which is nearer the stern. This end is called the
heel, and should nearly reach the mast. The outer end should project
beyond the hull to a distance of nearly one-third the latter’s length.
The rudder can be whittled from a thin piece of wood, in the shape shown
in the figure; the upper part or head is round, and passes up through a
hole in the overhang. The top of this rudder-head is squared off to fit
the hole in the end of the tiller or helm. The rudder is “shipped” very
much as a barn-door or window-blind is set in place. Suitable hinges for
the rudder of a toy boat can be made of pins from which the heads have
been filed. Two pins may be bent double for staples, and inserted into
the “stern-post” of the vessel; while two others bent at right angles
may be driven into the rudder, the projecting ends hanging down through
the staples. The rudder should turn with sufficient friction to hold its
place, at whatever angle it may be set. The hollow of the boat should
not extend back into the overhang, as water might enter it through the
rudder-hole.
The mast is composed of two parts or pieces; the lower part is what is
always understood when the “mast” is spoken of. The smaller piece,
fastened to the upper end of the mast, is called the topmast.
The “mast,” which extends above the deck to a distance equal to about
three-fourths the length of the hull, passes through the hole in the
deck already mentioned, and rests firmly in the hole made for it in the
bottom of the hull.
The lower end of the topmast is lapped on in front of the upper end of
the mast, as seen in the figure, and may be secured in place by two
loops of fine brass wire.
The spars of next importance are those which stretch the mainsail. The
larger is called the “boom,” and extends along the lower edge or “foot”
of the mainsail; while the other, which is called the “gaff,” is secured
to its upper edge or “head.” The boom is equal in length to the mast;
the usual meaning of the word is here intended, _i. e._, the lower part.
The gaff is a little over one-half the length of the boom.
The mast and topmast taper slightly toward their upper ends, while the
gaff is nearly the same size throughout its entire length. The boom
generally swells a little, being somewhat larger in the middle than at
either end.
The boom and gaff are adjusted to the mast by a “jaw” on either side,
forming a crotch, which keeps them from slipping off. Builders of
miniature yachts will, however, probably find it more convenient to
whittle the ends of the spars in the form of a crotch than to attach
jaws as separate pieces.
Other smaller spars which enter into the equipment of racing craft, will
be mentioned in speaking of the sails.
The _standing rigging_ is now to be considered; this consists of stays
and shrouds. “Shrouds” are ropes which lead from near the head of the
mast to either side of the vessel, where they are fastened into the
_chain-plates_. These are strong iron bands firmly bolted to the
timbers. The shrouds of the model yacht, however, can be attached to
copper tacks driven into the sides. They—the shrouds—are tied around the
mast just below the point where the lower end of the topmast ends.
In “real” yachts these shrouds end in loops which encircle the mast, and
rest upon, or are held in place by blocks called “hounds” attached to
either side. But young ship-builders will probably find it will answer
all purposes to make a slight notch on either side of the mast, at the
point indicated.
A sloop yacht has usually two shrouds on either side, while in a large
ship there are four or five, making, as is known, a good-sized ladder.
The “fore-stay” runs from the same point on the mast to the top of stem.
In case the reader may be ignorant of the meaning of nautical terms, it
may be well to say here that by “stem” is meant the piece of timber in
the hull placed farthest forward, also called “forefoot” and “cutwater.”
The “fore-stay” may be passed through the staple already mentioned,
which fastens the bowsprit to the hull. The jib-stay passes from
mast-head to outer end of bowsprit.
The topmast-stay runs from the top of the topmast to the forward end of
the bowsprit; here it is sometimes passed through a hole in the end, and
brought down to the forefoot, near the water line.
The bob-stay runs from the end of the bowsprit to the stem, and acts as
a brace to offset the strain of the “headsails,” or the sails in front
of the mast. In a large yacht it is necessary that this stay be very
strong; and in such cases it is often a substantial strip of iron or
steel.
A yacht has, also, what are called “backstays,” which run on either side
from head of “topmast” to points on the sides somewhat abaft, or back of
the places where the shrouds are attached.
There are also “cross-trees,” with “topmast shrouds” leading from them
to the top of the topmast; but these, as well as the backstays, may as
well be dispensed with by our juvenile naval architect, as a
complication of unnecessary cords is to be avoided on a miniature craft.
We must now take up the sails, the most important of which is the
mainsail. The shape of this may be sufficiently well understood from the
figure. The edge next the mast is called the “luff,” while the outer or
longer side opposite to this is called the “leech.” The upper and lower
edges are called respectively the “head” and “foot.” The lower after
corner of this sail is called the “clew,” the lower fore corner the
“tack,” while the upper after corner is called the “peak.”
The “mast-hoops” are attached to the “luff” and run up and down the mast
as the sail is raised or lowered. In vessels of miniature size, these
may be supplied by small brass curtain rings. The “foresail” also runs
on small rings or loops which slide on the forestay. The jib, in like
manner, is attached to the “jib-stay”; the “jib-topsail” or “flying-jib”
to topmast-stay.
It may be well to dispense with the forestay, and to enlarge the jib so
as to occupy the additional space thus given, as the work will be less,
and the appearance quite as good.
It now remains to consider the “gaff-topsail,” which occupies the space
between the topmast and the gaff. This sail is set in quite a number of
ways; in a sloop yacht it is usual to stretch it on two light spars,
which are contiguous to mast and gaff.
Beside these, racing yachts in light winds carry a “balloon jib,” which
is simply an extremely large jib-topsail; and a “spinnaker,” which is
used in going before the wind. It is shaped like a large jib, and is
spread by means of a small spar extending along its foot, called the
“spinnaker boom,” so that it may take the wind on the side opposite the
mainsail.
These sails are spread by means of _running_ rigging. First, the
_halyards_, by means of which the sails are hoisted. The mainsail
usually has two halyards, one line being attached to the gaff near where
it touches the mast, which is called the “throat halyards.” The other is
smaller, encountering less strain, and is termed “peak halyards,” as it
raises that part of the sail after the luff has been hoisted.
The gaff-topsail of a regular yacht also has two halyards, one of which
raises the edge next the mast, and the other draws its foot out to end
of gaff.
The “jibs” are each raised by one “halyard” attached to head or upper
corner.
In a small boat like that we are considering, one halyard for each sail
will be amply sufficient. In fact it is a frequent practice to keep the
sails permanently spread; which has this in its favor, that they are
much smoother, much less wrinkled, than when furled between cruises.
The “topping lift” is a line which leads from the head of the “mast” to
the outer end of the “boom,” which it keeps from falling on deck when
sail is lowered.
The _sheets_ are not sails, as the reader not conversant with nautical
expressions would suppose, but ropes, or lines, which keep the sails in
their proper position in respect to the wind. The _main-sheet_, which
controls the mainsail, is attached to the boom at a point just above the
stern, to which the other end is led. Here it is fastened to a cleat.
The sheets of the headsails are fastened to their “clews” or lower aft
corners, and led to cleats near foot of mast. In large craft the sheets
are passed through a number of pulleys in order to secure sufficient
purchase.
In addition to the rigging already mentioned, many other ropes might be
enumerated, such as the “downhauls,” “outhauls,” “spinnaker brace and
guy,” “bowsprit shrouds,” etc., but as has already been said, the less
confusion of cords in a miniature craft, the better.
―――――◀▶―――――
A SCHOONER YACHT.
[Illustration]
In this the length should be greater in proportion to its other
dimensions than in the sloop yacht. The mainmast should be stepped a
little abaft the middle point of the hull. The foremast is stepped about
midway between the mainmast and the stem, and should be very nearly as
high as the mainmast. The foretop-mast, however, should be decidedly
shorter than the maintop-mast.
The bowsprit of the schooner yacht should be somewhat thicker and
shorter in proportion than that of the sloop yacht, and is lengthened to
the desired extent by means of a small spar resting on its top, which is
called the jib-boom.
The forestay comes down to the bowsprit head, instead of to the stem.
The jib-stay runs from the mast-head to the jib-boom, through which it
passes a short distance from the end of the latter. The topmast stay
extends from the upper part of the topmast to the end of the jib-boom.
The two latter stays pass from the jib-boom to the “martingale,” a short
spar, which has a hook at its upper end. This hook passes through an
iron ring on the under side of the head of the bowsprit.
The martingale extends downward toward the water, while the stays pass
through it, or through iron loops affixed to either side, and are
fastened to the stem or the upper part of the bows.
As in the sloop, one or more stout bobstays connect the bowsprit head
with the stem.
The two masts are braced together by means of certain stays, of which
the most important is the _spring-stay_, which connects the mast-heads.
Two other stays extend from the maintop-mast to the foremast head. (See
figure.)
[Illustration]
The mainsail and its gaff-topsail are similar to those of the sloop, but
the foresail is much smaller, as it must pass between the masts in
tacking, and varies little in breadth from head to foot.
A schooner yacht has a maintop-mast staysail, which is used in racing,
and comes down nearly to the deck. Its sheet is rove through a block at
the after end of the boom, whence it is brought back to the stern and
“belayed” to a cleat.
“Belaying” is the nautical term for winding a rope on a cleat or
belaying pin; which is done as a boy winds his kite string, on each end
alternately, in figure-eight style.
The fore gaff-topsail is not provided with spars or booms at its edges,
but has rings along its luff, like those of the lower sails, which run
on the foretop-mast.
The sails of a large vessel have ropes called bolt-ropes, sewed entirely
around their edges, which may, of course, be dispensed with in the sails
of the miniature yacht, as they will be sufficiently strong without such
aid.
The reef-points are short lengths of small rope, arranged at equal
distances from each other, in rows parallel to the booms; they pass
through the sail and hang down on either side. There are usually two
rows of these on the foresail, and three on the mainsail, while the
larger headsails are also provided with them.
Before the sails are put on or _bent_, it will be advisable to paint the
yacht. A coat of paint should have been given to the inside of hull as
well as under side of deck, to prevent the wood from becoming
water-soaked in case of leakage.
Custom has rigidly prescribed the colors for the exterior of a yacht,
above the water line; either black or white, with a narrow gold line
below the gunwale, being universally employed. Below the water line
greater latitude may be given to individual taste; either dark green,
brown, or black, may be used, according to the preference of the owner.
The greatest pains are taken to keep the bottom of a racing yacht in the
smoothest possible condition. It is usually covered with black-lead and
polished to the utmost degree. This treatment is often renewed three or
four times in the course of a season.
The mast should not be painted, but stained a bright yellow, with a
little raw sienna in oil. When dry it should be shellacked; in fact, the
latter will form a good coating for the painted surface of the hull as
well. If the shellac be thick, it may of itself stain the mast to a
sufficient extent, but in that case—if thick—it should not be used on
the white hull. The short space where the mainmast and topmast overlap
each other should be painted the color of the hull. The bowsprit should
be the color of the hull, and the jib-boom stained like the masts. The
deck may be painted with white, to which enough sienna has been added to
give it a buff tint.
The prow, or upper portion of stem just below the bowsprit, is usually
carved and gilded; and the stem is occasionally decorated in like
manner; but although there seems to be no limit to the increasing
richness and elegance of the interior of our American yachts, the
tendency of the time leads more and more toward a severely plain and
quiet treatment of the exterior.
A yacht always carries a little triangular flag at the topmast-head
called the “burgee.”
A schooner yacht, of course, flies two of them, one at each mast-head.
These are simultaneously hauled down at the moment of sunset. A national
flag, called the “ensign,” is generally hoisted at the peak of the
mainsail.
These instructions apply equally well to the papier-maché boats
described at page 90, which have the advantages of lightness and ease of
construction.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Transcriber’s note:
Formats of index and Notes have been regularised.
Index, full stop inserted after ‘ib.,’ “plants for fresh-water aquarium,
ib.;”
Index, ‘3’ changed to ‘320,’ “Cross puzzle, the, 320”
Index, ‘miscroscope’ changed to ‘microscope,’ “Objects, some, for solar
microscope, 225”
Page 266, full stop inserted after ‘book,’ “in this book.) Balance”