THE STORING OF FRUIT AND HERBS

A STORE-ROOM for apples and pears should be cool, though frost-proof,

slightly moist, and well ventilated, though free from draughts.

Adjacent apples should not be in contact with each other. If very

choice, it is wise to wrap each apple in tissue paper. The fruit should

be hand-picked, and placed in the store-room when quite dry, and any

specimens that show signs of rottenness should be removed directly they

are recognized.

Messrs. Bunyard, of Maidstone, have built some fruit-houses which

admirably fulfil the desired conditions. The following instructions for

erecting a similar storehouse are given by Mr. George Bunyard.

First level the soil and dig out holes for the corners large enough

to admit brick piers 14 inches by 14 inches, or stones about 1

foot square; fix an iron dowel in the centre to receive the corner

posts of the structure. Some provision for air (air-bricks), or an

aperture covered outside and inside with perforated zinc, should be

provided just above the ground line, and if over 20 feet long an extra

foundation should be put in at the half distance to hold another

support.

Make the main posts 6 feet long, 6 inches square, and prepare a hole

in the foot to receive the dowel mentioned above. This will keep the

framework firm. The main ground plate should be 4½ inches by 3 inches,

and the top plate of the same size. Support and steady in the usual way

with quartering 4½ inches by 3 inches, and when this is fixed, choose a

dry day, and pitch, tar, or cold creosote the lower plates and all the

woodwork 2 feet from the ground to protect from damp: this quartering

should show an even outside face to secure the matchboard.

The cheapest material for the outside covering will be ¾-inch

matchboard, and it may as well be fixed outside the rafters as well.

Pitchboard 4½ inches by 1 inch, rafters 3 inches by 2 inches.

_Inside Bonds_ from one side to the other, 4½ inches by 3 inches. If

stout they are useful to hold planks, on which baskets can be placed

overhead in the roof, space. In order to receive the side thatch, a

board is attached round the door-plates and at the corners, 6 inches

wide, from the ground to eaves, in which the thatch is placed upright,

and it is kept in position by lateral splines of wood 3 inches by 1

inch.

_The Roof Thatch_ may be 18 inches thick on the roof and 6 inches at

the sides, and where it can be procured, carex or reed is strongest and

most lasting, but it may be of wheat straw or heather. The thatch at

the sides should be 6 inches thick.

Both an inside and outside door should be provided, and they must be

made to fit closely to exclude draughts.

[Illustration: A FRUIT-ROOM.]

[Illustration: ORR’S TRAYS FOR STORING FRUIT]

In order that one may readily inspect the fruit, windows of 21-ounce

glass are inserted, and this saves the use of a candle at storing time;

but outside shutters must be provided to keep the place as dark as

possible, and a fruit-house is perhaps better without windows.

_Ventilation_ is provided by an opening under the apex of roof at each

end, 18 inches by 8 inches, a small opening being left between the

dairy shutters, which can be stopped by hay or moss in severe weather,

and inside opening should be protected by perforated zinc, fine enough

to keep out wasps and flies; another ventilator should be inserted

about midway under the lowest shelf, to open from outside by a shutter,

being covered inside by perforated zinc.

To protect the contents from rats, a ½-inch stout wire netting should

be fastened to the matchboard outside beneath the thatch, so that an

entry would be difficult.

_Inside Shelves_ on which to lay the fruit are readily fixed at the

sides. First place uprights 2 inches by 1½ inch from the ground to the

rafters, and then attach bearers 2 inches by ¾ inch on this to the

quartering; 1 foot between the shelves is a very convenient distance,

the lowest shelf being placed 6 inches from the ground, making six all

up to the eaves. The shelves are made of ¾-inch matchboard, should not

quite meet each other by ¼ inch, so as to gain a slight circulation of

air; upon this place lengths of clean wheat straw, so that the fruit

shall not touch the wooden shelves. In the centre of the fruit-house a

narrow table with a raised edge made of lengths of matchboard, set on

trestles, is useful to set up exhibition collections or to show special

samples. Baskets of fruit can be set under this for early use.

_Floor._—The best possible floor is the natural earth—paved surfaces

are apt to become too dry. The latest sorts should be stored on the

lowest shelf.

_Names._—Provide slips of zinc 4 inches long, turn up one end 1 inch,

at an angle of 45°, and then slit this angle three times, and bend it

so that it will hold a neat card; the other end can be slipped under

the straw.

From their fruit-house, constructed on these lines, Messrs. Bunyard

have put up 80 dishes of fresh clean apples at the Temple Shows at the

end of May.

_Pears._—If pears constitute the bulk of the store, the fruit-house

should be rather drier and rather warmer than in the case of apples. In

either case, the winter temperature should not fall below 40° F., and

the summer temperature should not rise above 60° F.

A very convenient method of storing apples and pears is in flat trays,

such as those known as Orr’s, of which Mr. White, of Bedford, holds the

patent rights. The fruit is placed direct in these as picked from the

tree, and the trays are carried to the fruit-house as fast as they are

filled.

_Medlars_ should be picked in November, preferably after the frost has

touched them. Their stalks should be dipped in strong lime, and the

fruits buried in boxes of wet bran, no two medlars touching, and placed

in the fruit-house.

_Walnuts_ should be removed from their outer rinds, and at once placed

in an earthen jar. Cover them with three inches of sawdust, and place

them in a cool cellar or fruit-house.

_Filberts, Cobs and Hedge Nuts_, for storing, should be gathered just

before they slip their husks—though they must be so ripe as to do so at

the slightest force. They should be dried before storing, or the husks

will become mouldy. They may then be treated as advised for walnuts, or

they may be placed in a jar and sprinkled over with salt.

_Gathering and Drying Herbs._—Herbs should usually be picked just

before they flower, and, their roots having been cut off, they should

be tied into bundles and quickly sun-dried. These bundles may then be

tied in paper bags and hung in a dry room, or they may be powdered and

bottled. Lavender should be cut as soon as the flowers are fully open.

It should then be dried in the shade, and stored in a dry room.

[Illustration: LEE’S STEAM FRUIT PRESERVING APPARATUS]

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