Of the numerous pilgrims who arrive at Mekka before the caravan, some are
professed merchants; many others bring a few articles for sale, which
they dispose of without trouble. They then pass the interval of time
before the Hadj, or pilgrimage, very pleasantly; free from cares and
apprehensions, and enjoying that supreme happiness of an Asiatic, the
_dolce far niente_. Except those of a very high rank, the pilgrims live
together in a state of freedom and equality. They keep but few servants;
many, indeed, have none, and divide among themselves the various duties
of housekeeping, such as bringing the provisions from market and cooking
them, although accustomed at home to the services of an attendant. The
freedom and oblivion of care which accompany travelling, render it a
period of enjoyment among the people of the East as among Europeans; and
the same kind of happiness results from their residence at Mekka, where
reading the Koran, smoking in the streets or coffee-houses, praying or
conversing in the mosque, are added to the indulgence of their pride in
being near the holy house, and to the anticipation of the honours
attached to the title of hadjy for the remainder of their lives; besides
the gratification of religious feelings, and the hopes of futurity, which
influence many of the pilgrims. The hadjys who come by the caravans pass
their time very differently. As soon as they have finished their tedious
journey, they must undergo the fatiguing ceremonies of visiting the Kaaba
and Omra; immediately after which, they are hurried away to Arafat and
Mekka, and, still heated from the effects of the journey, are exposed to
the keen air of the Hedjaz mountains under the slight and inadequate
covering of the ihram: then returning to Mekka, they have only a few days
left to recruit their strength, and to make their repeated visits to the
Beitullah, when the caravan sets off on its return; and thus the whole
pilgrimage is a severe trial of bodily strength, and a continual series
of fatigues and privations. This mode of visiting the holy city is,
however, in accordance with the opinions of many most learned Moslem
divines, who thought that a long residence in the Hedjaz, however
meritorious the intention, is little conducive to true belief, since the
daily sight of the holy places weakened the first impressions made by
them. Notwithstanding the general decline of Musselman zeal, there are
still found Mohammedans whose devotion induces them to visit repeatedly
the holy places.--_Burckhardt's Travels in Arabia_.
* * * * *