CHAPTER XX

PRINCESS MARGARET'S CHURCH

Our strongest impression of Bourg en Bresse--apart from its

associations with the Eglise de Brou--was that it brought us almost

within hail of the beloved Midi. As at Mâcon, the sun, when it shone,

was aggressive. You welcomed the sight of leafy plane trees, you hugged

the shady side of the road. Good peaches were to be had for a sou la

pièce; and the cattle wore hats--red and yellow tassels and elaborate

string fly-protectors bound about their foreheads. These things are

full of significance for one who has seen the south.

Another memory is the ill-manners of the townspeople. The attentions of

the folk at Paray were but neglect when compared with the fixed stare

of Bourg. One delinquent was so absorbed in us that he nearly wrecked

his motor in the open street: another fell down the hotel stairs;

there were three cases of abrasion. The fact that these victims had

obviously not forgotten the "convenances," only made more striking

their failure to observe them. They appeared to have no control over

certain faculties. Both sexes had forgotten how to blush. They wrought

me to anger, and my wife to tears.

But such trifles, after all, are merely the "petit désagréments" of

travel--remembered only with a smile; relics of primitivism, such as

was the service de la gare--omnibuses still running, not so much as

varnished since the French Revolution.

"C'est ancien" said a hotel porter, with a wave of the hand. "C'est un

monument historique," added a bystander. The porter smiled, as his hand

closed mechanically over a franc.

We rode, that first afternoon, to Cezenat, on the slopes of the Jura.

The aspect of the country round was harsher than that of central

Burgundy, and the light fiercer; the landscape, as a whole, lacks

the soft charm of the vine-clad Côte d'Or, without attaining to the

romantic quivering whiteness of the vrai midi. It was very delightful

to rest before the café opposite to the church of Revonnat, and

watch the shapely, creamy cattle, following the swarthy maid to the

water-trough beneath the virgin-crowned fountain. They drank steadily,

until a long stick, rattling about their shiny muzzles, made them raise

mildly-protesting heads. They walked home with unruffled dignity, a

processional frieze of madonnas--their faces veiled, as befits holiness.

More, and then more, came tinkling by, driven by a diminutive boy. They

disappeared down a winding lane, and were followed by four horses,

harnessed tandem, wearing the three-horned attelage of the Midi, and

stamping, swishing their tails, and tossing heads, till all the village

was vocal with their music. After them waddled a fat woman, leaking

seed, and followed by a hundred hungry fowls. Last of all, two piebald

oxen, harnessed in front of a skinny pony, tugged wearily up the hill

the household goods of a whole family piled upon a creaking cart.

With the exception of a few old houses and the world-famous Brou, there

is very little architecture worth seeing in Bourg. Or, if there is,

it did not detain us long. We made at once for Princess Margaret's

Church, rather more than a kilometre distant from the lower part of

the town, at the end of a long, straight, squalid road. There we found

it--this jewel ill-set. The authorities, with the cynical apathy, or

ignorance, that characterises French ecclesiasticism, have surrounded

the building, on the west and north, with a gravelled open space, like

the playground of a board-school, adorned with a tawdry crucifix, and

a lavatory, the whole enclosed within an ignoble wall. Why the French

public tolerate such outrages is a mystery!

[Illustration: ·IN THE STREET·]

I suppose that, in this case, darkness is just ignorance.[198] Yet

before their very eyes are evidences that it was not always so. The

pictures in their church show that the "parvis" was originally planted

with shrubs, which would grow as readily to-day as they did then;

failing a grassy lawn, and the money or men to keep it green and trim.

Enough of the setting--what of Princess Margaret's Church? Looking

up at it, we are reminded, at once, of her Flemish sympathies. The

high gables of this west front--of which the centre one is lightened

by a rose and three triangular windows, symbols of eternity and the

Trinity--recall the splendid architecture of Bruges and the Rhine

country. Rich flamboyant carving is to be seen everywhere; yet the

effect is more striking than successful. The façade is surrounded with

elaborate embellishments, that, jostling with one another, break the

harmony of line; the ornament is tortured, and conveys the impression

that it is merely hung upon the Church; the figures in the tympanum

below the flat-arched portal, are poor in execution; the tower is

mean and insufficient. Yet we must not hasten to condemn. This fallen

Gothic, though marred by the defects of its qualities, and, beyond

question, fundamentally decrepit, has yet wintry graces all her own.

Her death days were neither ignoble, nor frozen; rather they were

instinct with a repentant animation, and warmed by a delicate flush,

the hope and vision of coming spring.

Yes, despite the wanton waste of ornament, despite intemperance and

lack of restraint, there is pathos, there is beauty, even, in these

splendid agonies of a matchless art. That proud princess of ancient

lineage, lying stricken in her darkened chamber, where yet lingered

the shadows of a passing night, bent timidly, fearfully, her dreamy,

dying eyes upon the before and after, upon what had been and was yet

to be; until, gathering strength for a last effort, the frail, fair,

white hand, drawing apart the silken folds of the curtain, caught,

through the glowing casement, a glimpse of a golden dawn brightening a

yet lovelier world, and smiled to see the pure radiance of a happier,

more human belief touching with the tender light of a new-born hope the

sterner mysticism of her earlier discarded faith. The discarded faith

was mediævalism; that new-born hope we call the Renaissance.

Come with me into the building, and, before I tell Margaret's story,

look, for a moment, round this amazing church. The nave, though it

conveys at once to the mind of the devotee of pure Gothic, a sensation

of wintry decadence, that neither the richness of the lovely _jubé_,

nor a glimpse, through its open door, of the wonderful marble tombs

within the choir, can quite dispel, is pleasing in its grace and

simplicity, qualities which the exterior would not have led you to

expect. So restful, too, are the flowing lines of the columns and

engaged colonnettes rising, unbroken by capitals, to the low vaults,

that one imagines the architect to have planned deliberately this cool,

white marble hall, in which worshippers could soothe spirits wrought to

intensity by sights seen within. They may well have needed such repose,

since we need it to-day; though the love which brought this church into

being was left lonely four hundred years ago. Pass through that open

doorway, and see for yourself. You stand in a maze of sculptures, among

a thousand flowers, figures, emblems, devices, and myths, feminine

fantasies carved everywhere, in regal profusion upon many a pedestal

and column, upon shadowy niches and overhanging tabernacles, upon

dainty shaft, and lightest fretwork pinnacle, their marble whiteness

all warmed in blue, crimson, and golden light streaming from the

painted windows. Whether you look down upon the blue enamelled bricks

at your feet,[199] at the silent figures beneath those strangely

decorated canopies, and the myriad carven shapes about them, or whether

you look up at the resplendent saints, kings, and nobles ablaze upon

the panes, your sensation is one of unsatisfied wonder, and you know

yourself to be in a building, that, for all its faults, is unrivalled

in the world of art. Let me tell how it came to be so.

The story of Margaret d'Autriche, the unfortunate princess to whom

we owe this extraordinary Eglise de Brou, is closely linked with

events and personalities already mentioned in these pages. Born in

1480, she was the daughter of Maximilian and Marie de Bourgogne,

and grand-daughter of Charles le Téméraire. In the closing years of

his life, that old fox, Louis XI., had chosen her out as the future

wife of his Dauphin, and would, no doubt, have had his will, had not

his erstwhile ally, death, turned against him at last, and claimed

forfeiture.

The childhood of Marguerite passed peaceably in that lovely Château of

Amboise by the Loire, in the company of her official husband, Charles

VIII., and his French Court, was not foreshadowed by sorrows that

were soon to come. The King torn between desires to unite Burgundy

and Brittany to the French crown, and finding that he could not have

both, decided in favour of the latter. Acting upon that decision, he

broke his sworn faith to Marguerite, dismissed his fiancée, and married

Anne of Brittany. Marguerite left in anger; nor did she ever forgive

Charles. Henceforth, France was her enemy. So, for many years, was

Fortune. The next stroke fell swiftly.

In April, 1497, Marguerite married Juan, Prince of Castille, the son

of Ferdinand and Isabella, who died of fever at Salamanca in the same

year--a misfortune that--if we are to believe her historiographer,

Jean Lemaire--neither crushed the girl's spirit, nor extinguished her

natural wit; "for, being on shipboard, and having passed a horrible and

tempestuous night, in fear of perilous shipwreck, as the following day

the sea had been calm and tranquil, while Marguerite was conversing

with her maids upon their past fears and perturbations, the proposal

was made that each should compose her own epitaph; whereupon she

promptly composed her own in this manner":

"Cy gist Margot la gentil' Damoiselle,

Q'u ha deux marys et encore est pucelle."[200]

Truly a very joyous epitaph, as Lemaire says, "si plein de vraie

urbanité." Not so did she salute the death of her next husband.[201]

It was on the 26th of September, 1501, that was signed the treaty of

her marriage with Philibert le Beau, Duke of Savoy--the event that

first links Marguerite's story with that of Brou.

The fifth of August in the following year, when Philibert and

Marguerite paid their first visit to Bourg, was a memorable day in the

annals of the town. Artillery boomed, joy bells clashed; every house

was bright with gay hangings of all colours, with festoons, and the

arms of Burgundy and Savoy. Soon the call of the trumpet drew all the

crowd to the Town Hall, whence issued the corps municipal, preceded by

the syndics clothed in red robes, one of whom bore the keys of the town

upon a silver plate.

The procession moved slowly forward, to the beat of music, until a

warlike fanfare of trumpets, and the neighing of horses, announced the

coming of the ducal cortège, at the head of which rode Philibert and

Marguerite. Loud were the cries of joy that greeted the young couple.

On a prancing steed, decked with rich draperies, bearing the arms of

Burgundy, its beautiful head plumed with tossing white feathers, rode

Marguerite, wearing the ducal crown. Through the folds of her silver

veil, spectators could obtain a glimpse of a gracious face, and long

fair tresses. Her dress was of crimson velvet, embroidered in gold,

showing upon the skirt the escutcheons of Austria and Savoy. In one

hand she held her reins, the other was lifted in gracious salutation

to the crowd. At her right ambled the Duke Philibert, proud of the

reception that Bourg was according his lady.

Philibert le Beau was a handsome, gay, debonair prince, who loved to

give to music and good cheer all the hours he could spare from his

favourite pastime of the hunt. He left to his ministers exclusively

all such troublesome matters as affairs of State. Such was the young

gallant who rode by Marguerite's side through the streets of Bourg.

Every house, as we have said, was gay with blazoned arms and bunting.

On a great scaffold before the Church of Notre Dame, the preaching

friars were presenting mystery plays, the Christian legends of St.

George and of the Archangel St. Michael. On the scaffolds, in various

parts of the town, were figured scenes from mythological history. The

Labours of Hercules, or Jason's encounters with monsters and dragons

during his quest of the Golden Fleece. Before the town wall, in the

presence of a crowd so dense that a way could scarcely be cleared for

the duchess, was represented the allegory of "The Fountain and the

Maid," in which, from the metal breasts of a gigantic female figure,

two jets of wine splashed into the basin below.

During the three short years of Philibert's married life, the peace

of Europe was untroubled, and the Duke of Savoy was forced to appease

his military ardour in tournament and hunt. A chronicler of the time

has left us a detailed account of the jousts held on the occasion

of the marriage of Laurent de Gorrevod, at the Castle of Carignan.

Philibert bore himself so bravely in the lists, that the ladies, with

one consent, "benign and not ungrateful, knowing the honour and the

great and mighty feats of arms done for love of them, advised that by

right and without favour, the honour and prize of the combat should be

given to Duke Philibert. Wherefore the said ladies desired him that he

would of his grace accept the ring presented to him on their behalf by

a young and fair demoiselle--which supplication, as one full of honour,

courtesy, and benignity, thanking the said ladies, their said ring and

present he graciously accepted."[202]

The Duke's favourite hunting-seat was at Château de Pont-Ain,[203]

high up on the hill overlooking Bresse and Bugey. Many a day the dark

woods around echoed the merry note of the horn, and the deep bay of his

hounds, as Philip and Marguerite rode forth together. She with "the

ivory horn hung in a sling, mounted on a spirited palfrey, followed her

very dear lord and spouse, in hot chase of the horned stags, by wood

and plain, by mountain and valley, fearing not the ardour of the sun

nor the toil of the hunt, so that by her careful presence she could

guard him from all misfortune."

On a very hot morning, in September, 1504, the young prince, led far

afield by the excitement of the chase, "and almost separated from his

party, who could follow him no longer, was passing, at mid-day, a long

and narrow valley, on foot, because his horses, by reason of the long

ride, were dead or broken down."

Arriving, breathless and bathed in perspiration, at the Fontaine St.

Vulbas, he was charmed by the cool shade of the place, and ordered his

meal to be served to him there. Before long, feeling himself seized

with a sudden shivering fit, he ordered his horse, and began his

homeward journey, "holding his hand to his chest, then commencing to

bend forward and to be in great agony." He reached the Castle at last,

and threw himself down upon a camp bed, "beside which came soon, all

troubled in heart, the very dear Duchess, his very dear spouse and

companion, who, seeing her lord and friend lying ill, and nevertheless

not knowing as yet of her great mourning so soon to be, began to

comfort him very sweetly, and to cheer him with all her power."

For several days the young prince battled with a violent attack of

pleurisy; but, at last, in spite of bleeding and many prayers, even his

strong constitution gave way, and the lovers knew that they must part.

"And himself feeling his end drawing near, rose and would fain bid an

eternal farewell to his very loved companion, holding her in a strong

embrace." He died in the arms of Marguerite, on the 10th September,

1504, in the very room in which he had been born, twenty-four years

before, in the Château de Pont-d'Ain.

The brief days of Marguerite's happiness were closed. Coming years

were to bring their measure of consolation to the stricken woman; but,

as she herself, a poetess of sorrow, wrote in verse, whose graceful

melodies recall the plaintive notes of Charles D'Orléans, henceforth

for her

Deuil et ennuy, soussy, regret et peine,

Ont eslongué ma plaisance mondaine,

Dont a part moy, je me plains et tourmente;

Et en espoir n'ay plus un brin d'attente:

Véez là, comment Fortune me pourmeine.

Ceste longheur vault pis que mort soudaine;

Je n'ay pensé qui joye me rameine;

Ma fantasie est de déplaisir pleine;

Car devant moy à toute heure se présente

Deuil et ennuy.[204]

So poor Marguerite adopted a new device, the last and saddest of three

comments upon her destiny.[205] You may read it to-day, a hundred

times, on the walls, the tombs, the windows of the church of Brou.

FORTUNE. INFORTUNE. FORT UNE.[206]

It was in the spring of 1505 that Margaret laid with her own hand the

first stone of the building she had dreamed of ever since her husband's

death, a church which would, at the same time worthily perpetuate

the memory of their loves, and accomplish the unfulfilled vow of her

mother, Marguerite de Bourbon, who had sworn many years before to

erect a church to the glory of God, should her husband recover from an

illness that then threatened his life.

The princess chose for her architect Loys van Boghen, a Flamand of

great ability, under whose direction the whole fabric of the church

was constructed. The statues and sculptures were in the hands of

"Maistre Conrard, le consommé tailleur d'ymages," between whom and the

difficult, quarrelsome Loys considerable friction seems to have arisen.

This we gather from the archives of Ain.[207]

"Insomuch as Maistre Loys is somewhat light of word and threat towards

one and another, both ecclesiastic and secular, whence much scandal

may arise, as indeed has already chanced, and our Lady's work thereby

retarded, the said Maistre Loys is thereby expressly forbidden and

prohibited henceforth from using such threats and words; and should he

notwithstanding attempt to do so, he will be held accountable therefore

to our Lady in his person and goods. The same shall be said to Maistre

Conrard and to all other whom it may concern."[208]

At length, stone by stone, in spite of Maistre Loys' temper and the

awful famine and pestilence, which, in those years, were ravaging the

town of Bourg, Marguerite's darling project approached completion. Many

a day would she ride over from the Castle of Pont d'Ain, where she was

passing the early years of her widowhood, to watch her beloved building

growing beneath her eyes.

On her palfrey white the Duchess

Sate and watched her working train--

Flemish carvers, Lombard gilders,

German masons, smiths from Spain.

Clad in black, on her white palfrey,

Her old architect beside--

There they found her in the mountains,

Morn and noon and eventide.

There she sate and watched the builders,

Till the Church was roofed and done.

Last of all the builders reared her

In the nave a tomb of stone.[209]

The closing years of Marguerite's life were passed in administering,

wisely and justly, the affairs of the Pays Bas, of which country she

had long been appointed governor. Her wealth, her great abilities, and

her exalted rank all combined to render her one of the most prominent

figures in the political life of the time.

[Illustration: SAINTE MADELEINE: TOMB OF MARGUERITE D'AUTRICHE: BROU.]

Francis I., after his defeat at Pavia, sought her good graces; she was

courted of many; her voice was loud in the counsels of Europe. But

Marguerite, who had already refused the hand of Henry VII. of England,

was not to be dazzled by the glitter of a crown. Long ago she had

renounced wedded life, until friendly death should lay her once more

beside Philibert in those bridal tombs. Her inmost thoughts, far away

from thrones and principalities, were turning towards the cloister, as

a fitting refuge from the cares of state, when, in 1530, her unhappy

life was brought to a sudden close. This is the traditional story of

her death, as told in a manuscript of the eighteenth century.[210]

On the fifteenth of the month of November, in the morning, before

rising, she asked for a drink of water from one of her attendants,

Magdeleine of Rochester, who, obeying her immediately, brought the

water in a crystal cup; but, while taking it back, she unfortunately

let the glass fall in front of the bed, where it was smashed to pieces.

The girl gathered the fragments up, as carefully as she could, but

did not think of looking into her Royal mistress's slippers. Some

hours later, Princess Marguerite put on her slippers, and walked to

the fire. Feeling a violent pricking sensation in her left foot, she

called a lady in waiting, who found a fragment of the broken cup firmly

embedded therein. This she drew out, as carefully as she could, and

the princess, with her usual courage, made light of the matter, and

dismissed it from her mind.

Some days after, she began to feel great pain in the foot, and noticed

that the limb was swollen. Physicians were summoned, who, after private

consultation, decided that the wound was gangrened, and that amputation

was the only practicable means of saving the patient's life. They

communicated their decision to Montécut, the princess's confessor, and

asked him to break the news to his mistress. She was much surprised,

but bore bravely what she must have known to be virtually a sentence of

death. The next few days having been passed in confession, absolution,

and the settlement of her temporal affairs, she submitted herself to

her doctors, who proceeded to administer to their patient so large a

dose of opium "that they put her to a sleep so sound that it is not yet

ended, and will not end until the Resurrection of all the dead."

Marguerite was buried at Malines, where her body lay for two years,

until, her tomb being ready, she was laid, in 1532, according to the

express terms of her will, beside her "lord and husband," who was to

rest between his mother and his wife.

There you may see her to-day lying, proud and lovely, as in life, her

royal face still turned to the man to whose glory, rather than to

God's, she had raised those astounding memorials of a woman's devotion.

There, in flaming colour upon the purpled panes, in blazoned device

upon floor and wall, in a thousand delicate fancies, wrought, with most

exquisite art, upon the pale, white marble of the tombs, and altar

pieces, you may read the story of her life.

* * * * *

We are now in a position to realize why the church, though built by

men, breathes femininity. It was the expression of a woman's mind, the

love offering of a lady to her lord. As such, all women's virtues are

expressed in it--dignity and grace in the flowing lines of the nave,

purity in the whiteness of the marble, wit and ingenuity in the legends

and devices, daintiness in the exquisite detail; courage, patience, and

devotion, revealed everywhere in the complete unity of the whole.[211]

And those women's virtues carried with them women's faults--a certain

lack of breadth and vision; over-elaboration of detail, and a love

of prettiness that verges upon the petty.[212] All these things are

apparent. But the greatest defect of all--the subordination of design

to ornament--is as much the fault of the age as of the individual.

These were the years of transition.

The old greatness had passed; the new greatness in building was not yet

come. In that sense this church is inherently decadent.

When men of the early middle ages reared their mighty fanes to God

and to his saints, they lifted vault and roof into echoing airy

spaces, where the rapt worshippers, looking upward, might seek haply

after God; but here is no upward call. This roof is low, flattened,

heavy; threatening, almost, to fall upon the heads bent in prayer.

The builders of pure Gothic loved to ornament their churches with the

richest sculpture that skilful, reverent hands could carve; and they

sought their inspirations in Nature alone, who shapes the tree before

she decks it with leaves, and fashions the plant before the flower.

But these later men, losing sincerity, lost truth; they thought of

the leaf before the limb, and of blossom rather than of bough. That

is why Brou leaves us unsatisfied. Yet, as I have said, we must not

blame utterly. Whatever architect and sculptor may have lacked, one

thing they did not lack--patience. And if patience were indeed genius,

as Buffon says it is, then is genius here, too. Surely, the most

fastidious spectator may say with Paradin, the old chronicler of Savoy,

"après tout estant léans (à Brou), semble que voyez un songe, et ne

savez à quoi premierment addresser vos yeux pour les repaistre, parce

qu' une chascune chose se convie á regarder comme un nouveau spectacle."

We have no space left in which to deal with details of the tombs, the

choir stalls, altar pieces, and other marvels the church contains. The

reader must discover them for himself; we can only give a few general

impressions.

[Illustration: Ornament from the Tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche]

As you face the east end of the Church, the tomb of Marguerite

d'Autriche is on your left, that of Philibert le Beau in the centre,

and that of Marguerite de Bourbon on the right. This last, the earliest

of the three, is obviously inspired by the royal tombs at Dijon, but,

having no base, it lacks their dignity, just as it lacks their harmony

and simplicity. The pleurants are very poor, when compared with those

of Claus Sluter and his nephew. The minute detail is extraordinarily

good, but there is a superabundance of ornament, and the whole is

tortured and conscious. The meaning of the device bearing the letters F

E R T has been much debated. Some say that it represents Fortitudo Ejus

Rhodum Tenuit, or Tuetur, in memory of Amédee le Grand's victory over

the Turks; others that it is a chevaleresque French device; Frappez,

Entrez, Rompez Tout. The guide, however, gave us Fide et Religione

Tenemur, as the true solution.

Philibert's tomb is quite fittingly the best of the three, as being the

simplest and most dignified. The detail is very Flemish, some of the

figures recalling in pose as well as in costume, the manner of Van Eyck

and his school.

The tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche is beautifully proportioned, but much

of the ornament has so little relation to the design that it appears

to be appliqué. Tortured lines are the inevitable result. Many of the

figures however, are very charming; notably the Madeleine holding her

hair, and Catherine of Alexandria trampling down the Emperor Maximilian

of Italy. The Marguerites make effective and appropriate ornament, as

also do the briquets of the house of Burgundy--two sticks in the form

of St. Andrew's cross.

The altar piece of the virgin in the north transept is one of the

most extraordinary productions of its kind that I know. It is more

magnificent even than the tombs, and far exceeds them in grace, charm,

and realism. The seven scenes represented are: The Ascension of the

Virgin; the Visitation; the Annunciation; the Nativity; the Adoration;

Pentecost; Christ appearing to His Mother. In the oratory of Marguerite

d'Autriche there is a curious oblique arch, enabling her to see both

altars at the same time.

Let me close these few notes on the church of Brou with some lively

comments from Paradin's Chronique de Savoie.

"As to the pavement, even that which is in the choir as well as that

which is in the chapel of my said Lady Marguerite d'Autriche, it is

in truth a thing as pleasant and delicious to see as may possibly be

found, being all such joyous and singular leadwork mingled with very

divers picturing ... which so pleases spectators that almost with

regret one walks upon it. I remember that, being there, was a gentleman

who feeling scruples at walking on this pavement, spat in the face of a

great rascal of a pastrycook, whose nose was all beflowered with knobs

of scarlet tint, saying that there was no spot in all the church more

dirty to spit on than that."

"I remember also having seen descend (here), the late King Francis[213]

when he came to Bourg, who, having seen this church, was ravished with

admiration, saying that he had never seen nor heard of a temple of such

excellence for what it contained. And true it is that he noted (as he

was a Prince exceeding in good sense all the kings of his time) that

this white stone of which the Church is built, would not well endure

frost, being too rare and tender. And it was since found that he spoke

truly; for long after there fell from the clock tower some of the great

bastions or gargoyles which take the water over the roof, on the side

of the cloisters, a thing which did much hurt to the building."

The revolutionary mob were proposing to do still greater hurt to the

building, and would have done so, had not the wisest man in all Bourg

filled the church with hay which the sans-culottes could not bring

themselves to burn. So Brou is ours, we hope, for many centuries to

come.

[Illustration: THE END; Princess Marguerite d'Autriche]

FOOTNOTES:

[198]

The English public are supposed to be extraordinarily tolerant,

yet the French are undoubtedly more so. The inconveniences of such

a large railway station as that at Dijon, for example, with its

almost impassable doors and swinging gates that bang all day long

with a report like that of heavy artillery, are such as would be

dealt with sternly by an English public. But the French take quite

good-humouredly the evils of railway monopoly--and other ills besides.

[199] Azulejos--from the Arab word _Azul_, blue.

[200] "Within this tomb the sweet Margot is laid,

Who has two husbands and is still a maid."

[201] "Eglise de Brou," by Jules Baux, p. 22.

[202] Beaux's "Eglise de Brou," 52.

[203] The Château de Pont D'Ain does not seem to have met with general

favour, to judge from the following humourous lines which Jean

Lemaire imagined himself addressing to Marguerite.

"Ha! Le Pont d'Ain, que tu fusses péry!

Lieu exécrable, anathématisé,

Mal feu, puist êstre en tes tours attisé!

Au moins, Princesse, en extrême guerdon,

Je te requiers et te supplie ung don:

C'est que mon corps n'y soit ensevely;

Ains le netz en quelque lieu joy,

Bien tapisesé de diverses flourettes

Où pastoureaulx devisent d'amourettes."

[204] Mourning and care, regret and grief and pain,

Within my heart all worldly joy have slain,

Wherefore, apart, I make my moan and grieve

That hope no more my anguish may relieve,

For see how Fate to do me hurt is fain.

Far less to sudden Death would I complain,

Than life drawn out--nor ever joy again;

But fancy leading phantoms in her train,

For here, all day, all year long, I receive

Mourning and care.

For complete poem see Baux's "Eglise de Brou," p. 66.

[205]

The first, adopted after her dismissal from the Court of France by

Charles VIII., was a windswept mountain, with the motto, "Perflant

altissimo venti." The second, taken after the death of John Castille,

and her child by him, was a fruit tree split by lightning.

[206]

This enigmatic device has been variously deciphered, but two

contemporary authors agree in interpreting it "_Fortuna infortunat

fortiter unam_," which means "Fortune tries cruelly a woman." Murray's

guide gives incorrectly, "Fortune infortune forte une," meaning "Here

is a woman strong in fortune or in misfortune."

[207] Beaux's "Eglise de Brou," p. 57.

[208]

The fabric, however, does not seem to have suffered as much from the

quarrels of the builders, as from the extraordinary failure of the

architect to provide efficiently for carrying away the roof water,

with the result that heavy rains nearly destroyed the building before

even it was finished. Loys had probably forgotten structural soundness

in his efforts to satisfy his employer's passion for decorative

effect.

[209]

Matthew Arnold's poem, "The Church of Brou," is marred by a number of

unnecessary inaccuracies. Philibert was not slain by a boar, he died

of pleurisy. Marguerite's Tomb is at the "Crossing East of the Choir,"

and not in the nave, moreover, the poet seems so uncertain whether the

Church is in the mountain or in the valley, that one is led to doubt

whether he really knew.

[210] "Description Historique de la belle église et du couvent royal

de Brou." Quoted Beaux pp. 126-8.

[211] Baux points out that the church does not contain one statue of

St. Nicholas of Tolentin, its patron saint.

[212] Michelet vii. cap. xii.

[213] Francis I.

[Illustration: ·SKETCH MAP TO· ILLUSTRATE P. ALLEN'S "BURGUNDY"

_Facing page 292._]

INDEX

PAGE

Abélard 89, 146, 153

" At Paris 146

" Marriage with Héloïse 148

" Fulbert's crime 149

" At St. Denis & St. Gildas 150

" Paraclet & correspondence 151

" Death 152

Aedui 13, 16, 32

Agrippa, Voie de 21, 36, 63

Aimard, Abbot of Cluny 91

Ain, The 272

Albéric 174, 176, 178

Albigensian Crusade 123

Alençon, Duc d' 106

Alesia 15

Alethea (Alèthe) 115, 209

Alexandre de Bourgogne 242

Aligote (wine) 247

Alonzo VI., King of Castille 71

Amalon, Duke 138, 140

Amboise, Jacques de 88, 94

Amboise, Château de 281

Ambulatorium Angelorum, Cluny Abbey 75

Amphitheatres 39

Andrew 18

Anjou, Duke of 136

Anne of Brittany 281

Anselm 89

" Bishop of Laon 146

Antoine-le-Moiturier 192

Antigny-le-Châtel 179

Antony de la Marche 156

Apollo 32, 50

Apollo, Temple of 21, 32, 34

Aquitaine, William, Duke of 60, 61, 63

Argenteuil, Convent of 147, 149

Ariovistus 14

Arles 32, 36, 100

Armagnacs et Bourguignons 105, 200

Arnay-le-due, Road to 179

" Town 180, 182, 183, 248

Arnaud, Abbot of Citeaux 123

Arnold, Matthew, "Church of Brou" 286

Arverni 13

Aseraule, Monastery of 178

Asile des Aliénées, Dijon 189

Augustodunum (See Autun) 33

Augustus 11

Autun 8, 10-58

" Amphitheatres 39

" Cathedral St. Lazare 12, 26, 42, 51

" " translation of Relics 42

" " Destruction of Tomb 48

" " Alterations to 48

" " Capitals 49

" Capitol 21, 32, 34

" Castrum 21, 26, 55

" Caves Joyaux (See Theatre)

" Champ de Mars,

Place du 11, 26, 55, 56

" " des Urnes 20

" Crot Volu (Amphitheatre) 39

" Ecoles Méniennes 21, 22, 33, 34

" Faubourg d'Arroux 11, 24, 27

" " des Marbres 34

" Forum 21

" Fountain of Pelican 28, 51, 52

" Hôpital St. Nicholas 53

" Hôtel Rolin 51-53

" " de Ville 55

" " St. Louis 31, 41

" Hospice St. Gabriel, 34

" Jambe de Bois, Rue de la, 21

" Lazarus (See St. Lazare)

" Marbres, Faubourg des, 34

" " Promenade des, 34, 39

" " Porte des, 21

" Martha (See St. Martha)

" Mary (See St. Mary)

" Musée lapidaire, 43, 53-55

" Musée municipal, 55

" Porch of Cathedral, 44, 45

" Porte d'Arroux, 26, 27

" " des Marbres (Porte de Rome), 21

" " St. Andoche, 39

" " André, 27

" St. Andrew, 43

" Saint Lazare, 41, 46;

Tomb of, 43, 48;

Cathedral of, 12, 26, 42, 51

" St. Martha, 41, 43, 46, 54

" " Martin, Abbey of, 154

" " Mary, 41, 43, 46, 54

" Rue de la Jambe de Bois, 21

" Sand, Georges, 57

" Temple of Appollo, 21, 32, 34

" " " Janus, 12, 16, 22, 24

" Theatre (Roman), 35-37, 39

" Tour des Ursulines, 29

" Voie d'Agrippa, 21, 36

Auvergne, Mountains of, 10, 13

Auxerre, 184

Auxey-le-Grand, 240, 246

Avignon, 136

Babuti, Mdlle. (Mme Greuze), 169

Bagaudes, The, 250

Baleuse, Julian de, 91

Balme, Monastery of, 64

Bar, Tour de, Dijon, 215

" Duc de, 213

Batonard, Citizen, 85

Baufremont, Jeanne de, 242

" Pierre de, 242

Beauchamp, Guillaume de, 53

Beaune, Vicomte de, 112;

Castle of, 208

" Maison du Colombier, 230;

Flemish Belfry, 232;

Hospice de la Charité, 232;

Notre Dame, 232;

Hotel Dieu, 233-236

Bees, Albéric's Dream of, 177

Belfry of Beaune, 232

Belle Pierre, Cluny, 94

Berecynthia, Cybele, 50

Bernard (see St. Bernard)

Bernon, Abbot of Gigny, 61

Berri, Jean, Duke of, 196, 199

Bertille, 137-144

Bertrand, Maréchal, 56

Besançon, 24

Beuvray, 2, 4-10, 13, 15, 16, 53

Berzé-le-Châtel, 103-106

Béziers, 123

Bibracte, Oppidum (see Beuvray), 5

" Goddess, 6

Blanche de Castille (Queen), 103, 123

Bligny-sur-Ouche, 178, 179

Boniface VIII., Pope, 89

Bouilland, 237

Boulogne, 24

Bouillon, Cardinal de, 98

Bourbon, Jean de, 88, 89, 91

" l'Archambaud, 24

" Marguerite de, 285

Bourg-en-Bresse, 276, 277

Bourgogne, Canal de, 215

" Marie de, 250

Bouxaise, Valley of the, 237

Brasey, Guillaume de, 53

Brayer, General, 56

Bresse, Pays de, 276, 277, 283

Broederlam, Melchior, 204

Brou, Eglise de, 204, 277-292

Brunehault, Queen, 54

Bugey, 283

Buligneville, Battle of, 213

Bulliot, 6, 9, 16, 53

Burgundian Dreams of Empire, 205, 206, 208

" Patois, 270, 271

" Sculpture, 44, 45, 49, 191, 192,

194, 204, 212

" Wedding, 266-270

Busseul-Saint Sernin, Marguerite de, 263

Cæsar, Julius, 5, 10, 13, 14, 250

Canal de Bourgogne, 215, 216

Canossa, 67

Capitals, Cluny Abbey, 93;

Autun Cathedral, 49

Carignan, Château de, 282, 283

Carnot, 240

Caves Joyaux, 34

Célestins, Church of the, 199

Cezenat, 277

Challant, Jacques de,

Seigneur de Manille, 219, 220

Chalonnais, 137

Chalon-Sur-Saône, 136, 137, 153, 158;

" Cathedral of, 158

Champeux, 146

Champs des Urnes, Autun, 20

Chandios, Pierre de, 154-158

Chapelle Bourbon, Cluny, 87, 88

Charlemagne, Tree of, 210, 217, 220

Charles V. of France, 185, 186, 188

Charles VI. of France, 89, 185;

madness of, 188, 201

Charles VII. of France, 91, 105;

as Dauphin, 201, 202

Charles VIII. of France, 20;

at Autun, 56, 94, 281

Charles le Téméraire, 53, 203, 205;

death of, 206-208, 280

Charles the Simple, 61

Charmeur de Vipères, 134, 135

Charney, Lord of, 156, 217, 219, 220, 242

Charolles, 135

Charolois, Count Charles of, 153

Chartreuse de Champnol, 189, 191

Chastelux, Pierre de, 88

Château-neuf, 246

Châtigny, Forest of, 166

Châtillon-sur-Seine, 111, 115

Childebert, 137

Chilperic, 137

Cicero, 13, 14

Circateurs, 79

Cistercian Architecture, 120, 145

" Order and Rule, 111, 112, 113

" Sites, 113

" to-day, 124-126, 177, 184, 204

Citeaux, 59, 111-126;

" Foundation of, 112

Clairvaux, 111, 117, 125

Claude de France, 20

Claude de Guise, 94

Claudius, Emperor, 250

Claus Sluter (see Sluter)

" de Werve, 190, 191

Clermain, village of, 63, 110

Clotaire, 11, 54

Clous, Valley of the, 240

Cluny, 26, 59-110, 111, 120, 127, 184

" Eglise Notre Dame, 97

" " St. Marcel, 97, 99

" Hôtel Dieu

" " de Bourgogne, 60, 88, 100, 101

" " des Monnaies, 97

" " de Ville, 94

" Impressions of, 59, 60, 99

" Women of, 99, 100

Cluny Abbey, 75

" " Abélard at, 152

" " Arms of, 91

" " Basilica, Interior of, 74

" " Boar, Legend of the, 65

" " Capitals, 93

" " Chapelle Bourbon, 87

" " Consecration by

Innocent II., 70

" " Crumbs, Legend of the, 64

" " Description, 71-73

" " Dream of, 102

" " Exterior, 75, 76

" " Foundation, 60, 61, 63

" " Gateway, 89

" " Hugues, Death of St., 82

" " Luxury, 84

" " Monastic Revival, 65, 66

" " Monks Vision, 69

" " " Purpose of, 73

" " Palace of Pope Gélase, 86

" " Palais Abbatial, 89

" " Pascal II. at, 70

" " Raoul Glaber at, 163

" " Revolution, 85

" " Romanesque Houses, 95

" " Rule of, 76-82

" " Tour de l'Eau Bénite, 89

" " " l'Horloge, 87

Colonna, Jean Baptiste, 207

Conrad, Maitre, 285, 286

Constantine, 21, 28, 32

" Emperor of Byzantium, 242

Constantius Chlorus, 32

Correggio, 99

Cosse (Broom-pod) Order of, 185

Costumes of 15th century, 185, 186

Côte-d'Or, 216, 230-257, 240, 248, 253

Couhard, Pierre de, 16, 18, 20-22

Courtépée, 249

Courtrai, 212

Creux du Diable, 221, 222

" " Legend of, 222-229

Cross of St. Andrew (Burgundian Badge), 200

Croix de Rebout, 5

Crumbs, Legend of, 64

Cussy, 248-250

" la Colonne, 248-250

Cybele (Berecynthia), 50

Damien, Pierre, 80, 89

Dame des Pleurs, Tournament of, 153-158

Dance des Morts, 186

Déchelette, 27

De la Monnoye, 260

Delmace, 66

Devil's Pit, 221, 222

" " Legend of, 222-229

Diana, 50

Digoin, 135

Dijon, 21, 184-220

" As it was in the 14th century, 184

" Asile des Aliénées, 189

" Bar, Tour de, 189

" Castle of, 205

" Chartreuse de Champnol, 189

" Louis 11th, Entry of, 208

" Musée, 203-205

" Murder of Duc d'Orléans, 196-199

" Notre Dame, Church of, 204, 210, 212,

220, 242, 244

" Palais de Justice, 204, 210, 215

" Palais des Ducs, 213, 244

" Post Office, 205, 209

" Prisons of, 173

" Puits des Prophètes, 189, 190

" St. Michel, Church of, 204, 210

" Tomb of Jean Sans Peur, 192, 194

" " Philippe le Hardi 191, 192

" To-day, 209-215

Divitiacus, 13, 14, 31, 34

Druids, 13

Dumnorix, 14, 15

Edward I. (King of England), 158

Edward IV. " ", 186

Eglise de Brou (see Brou)

"Eho" (Folk Song), 258-262

Epinac, 58

Eringarde, 111

Etzebon, 71

Eudes I., Duke of Burgundy, 115

Eudes II., Duke of Burgundy, 42

Eudes III., Duke of Burgundy, 123

Eugène III., Pope, 117, 118, 122

Eumenes, 26, 28, 32, 33, 34

Famine in France, 165-168

Faurtride, Abbot of Clairvaux, 118

Ferdinand, King of Spain, 281

Fertiault, François, 260, 262, 271

Fête des Trépassés, 244

First of March, 264

Folk Song, 258-262

Fontaine-les-Dijon, 115, 216

Fontaine St. Vulbas, 283

Fontenay (M. De), 22, 24, 26, 27, 34, 36

Fountain of the Pelican, Autun, 51, 52

Forêt au Maitre, 237

François I., 20, 21, 54, 129, 288, 291

Froissart, 212

Froissy, 179

Fulbert, Canon, 147-149

Gabriel de Roquette, 36

Gamay, Wine, 247

Gaul, 6, 9, 10, 14, 15

Gaulish Coins, 16

Gaulish Remains, 6

Gélase II., Pope, 74, 86, 89

Gemeaux, 228

Geneva, Canton of, 271

Geoffrey (St. Bernard's Secretary), 118

" de Berze, 104

Geraldus, 43, 44

Gérard (Brother of St. Bernard), 116

Gisilbertus, 46

Glaber, Raoul, 163-167

" History of his Time, 164

Gloze d'Ezéchiel, 147

Golden Fleece (Toison d'Or), 156-158,

244, 246

Gontran (King of Burgundy), 137, 140-144

Gorrevod, Laurant de, 282

Goujon, Jean, 51

Goux, Pierre de, 155

Grandson, Battle of, 53, 206

Grancy, Château de, 116

Gregory of Tours, 54, 143

" VII. (Pope Hildebrand), 67-69

Greuze, 99, 167-169

Guigonnes de Salins, 234, 236

Guillain, Nicolas, 49

Guillaume de St. Bénigne, 164

Guillaume de Vaudray, 220

" Lord of Marigny, 174-176

Guise, Claude de, 94, 106

Hamerton, P. G., 9, 10, 27, 42, 55

Harding, Stephen, 112-114, 178

Héliodore de Thiard de Bissy, 263

Héloïse, 146-153;

meets Abélard, 147;

marriage, 148, 149;

at Paraclet, 150, 151;

death of, 153

Helvetii, 14, 250

Henry I. (King of England), 71

" IV. (King of France), 106, 263

" IV. (King of the Germans), 67, 68

" V. (King of the Germans), 86

" VII. (King of England), 288

Heraclicus, 50

Hercules, Maximian, 250

Hildebrand de Mans, 75

" Pope Gregory VII., 67, 68, 89

Holy Tear, 175

Hospice de la Charité, Beaune, 232

Hotel Chrétien, Arnay-le-Duc, 183

" des Ambassadeurs,

Maison Richard, Dijon, 213

" de Bourgogne, Cluny, 60, 68

" de Cluny, Paris, 91

" Dieu, Beaune, 232-236

" Dieu, Cluny, 97, 98

" Rolin, Autun, 51

" St. Louis, Autun, 51

Huerta, Jean de la, 191

Hugues, Abbot of St. Martin, Autun, 61

" Abbot of Cluny, 66-70, 74,

80, 82, 91

" II. Abbot of Cluny, 83

" II. Duke of Burgundy, 115

" III. " ", 45

" IV. " ", 122

" le Pacifique, Duke of Burgundy, 175

" de Mâcon, 117

" Sambin, 204, 210

Huguenots, 105

Humbert de Bage, 42

Huns, 137, 144, 160

Ingres, 49, 50

Innocent II., Pope, 42, 71, 119

" III., Pope, 68, 123

" IV., " , 89

Isabella, Queen of Spain, 281

Isabeau de Bavière, Queen, 196

Is-sur-Tille, 229

Jaquemart, Clock, 212

Jacques d'Amboisè, 88, 94

" de Baerze, 203

Janus, Temple of (See Autun)

Jayet, Pierre, 129

Jean de la Huerta, 191

" de Bourbon, 88, 89

" de Marville, 191

" Petit, 199

" sans Peur, Tomb of, 192, 194;

character, 194, 195, 198, 199, 201;

murder of, 202, 204

Jeannin, Pierre, 49

Jeanniot, G.H.P., 205

John VIII., Pope, 146

Josephine, Empress, 56

Juan, Prince of Castille, 281

Judith Chalonnaise, La (Bertille), 137-144

Labussière, Abbey of, 173-178

" Church, 178

La Cluse, 272, 273

La Ferté, Abbey of, 117, 125

Lalain, Jaques de, 154-158

La Marche, Olivier de, 153, 207,

218, 219, 234

" " Anthony de, 156

Lamartine (de Prat), 107-110

Lancaster, Duke of, 185

Langue d'Oc, 271

Langue d'Oil, 271

Laurel, Fixing and Song of, 268-270

Lemaire, Jean, 281

Lempereur, 249

Leo XIII., Pope, 125

Les Carmes, Church of, 155

Lichfield Cathedral, Spire of, 44

Ligueurs, 263

Loire, Valley of, 10

Lois von Boghen, 285, 286

Louée, la, 1

Louis VII., of France, 42, 122, 152

" IX. ", 89, 122, 123

" XI. ", 194, 205, 206, 208, 233,

236, 263, 280, 281

" XIV. ", 98

" d'Orléans, murder of, 196-199

" le Gros, 122

Louise de Savoie, 20

Lourdon, Château de, 106, 107

Ludwige, 137, 138, 142, 144

Lusigny, 248, 249

Lux, Village of, 221, 222

Mâcon, 63, 104, 135, 171, 172

Maeniana, 33

Magdeleine of Rochester, 288

Maison de Bois, Chalon-sur-Saône, 158

" Colombier, Beaune, 230

" des Caryatids, Dijon, 213

" Milsand, Dijon, 213

" Notre Dame, Paris, 196, 198

" des Pompons, 129

" Richard, Dijon, 213

Mahomet II., Sultan, 242

Maitre, Foret au, 237

Malines, 289

Malvaux, Gorge of, 6

Mandelot, 253

Manoir des Ducs de Bourgogne,

Arnay-le-Duc, 182

Marbres, Les, Autun, 28

"March, First of", 264

Marcilly, Etang de, 229

Marcus Aurelius, 50

Maréchal de Rieux, 196

Marguerite d'Autriche, 280-292;

Devices of, 285;

closing years of, 286;

death of, 288

Marguerite de Bourbon, 285

" de Busseul-Saint-Sernin, 263

" de Flandres, 190

" Ste. Abbey and Legend of,

237-240

Marigny, Château de, 174

Marie de Bourgogne, 280

Martha (see St. Martha)

Martial d'Auvergne, 188, 189

Martin of Autun, 43, 48

Marville, Jean de, 191

Mary (see St. Mary)

Mathilde Duhesme, 247

" Lady of Marigny, 175

Matthew Arnold's "Church of Brou", 286

" Bishop, of Westminster, 68

Mavilly, 248, 253, 255

Maximilian d'Autriche, 280

" of Italy, 291

Melchior Broederlam, 204

Melin, 240

Melun, 164

Mendes, Catulle, 260

Meursault, 240

Michael Angelo, 190

Milly, Comte de, 103, 106

Milly, Village of, 107

Mirebeau, Lord of, 156

Molême, Forest and Abbey of, 111, 112

Monnoye, De la, 260

Montagne Ste. Gêneviève, Abélard at, 146

Montbard, Counts of, 115

Mont Beuvray (see Beuvray)

Montceau, 249

Montécut, 288

Montégut, Emile, 31, 49, 99, 123, 129

Montereau, 191;

Murder at Bridge of, 202

Montfauçon, 249

Monthelon, 10

Montjeu, Chateau de, 47

Montlhéri, Battle of, 206

Morat, Battle of, 206

Morée, Prince de

(Alexandre de Bourgogne), 242

Morimond, 117, 125

Morvan, 2

Moses, Well of, 100

Motte Forte, Tour de la, Arnay-le-Duc, 180

Musée Lapidaire, Autun, 43, 53-55

" Municipal, Autun, 55

Namours, Duc de, 105

Nancy, Siege and Battle of, 206, 207

Nantoux, Valley and Gorge of, 248, 252, 253

Nantua, 272-275;

Church of, 275

Napoleon Buonaparte, 56, 57, 169

Narthex, Purpose of, 73

" of St. Philibert, Tournus, 160, 161

Nicolas Rolin, 44, 53, 233, 236

" V., Pope, 242

"Noce d'autrefois en Bourgogne", 266-270

Nogent, 150

Noirmoutiers, Monastery of, 162

Notre Dame, Beaune, 232

" Cluny, 97

" Dijon, 204, 210, 212,

220, 242, 244

Nuits, 217, 218

Odilon, Abbot of Cluny, 65-67, 74, 163

Odon, 64, 74;

Legend of the Crumbs, 64

Olivier de la Marche (see La Marche)

Orbandale, 137

Otellot, Wine, 247

Ouche, Valley of the, 172-183, 215, 216

Palace of Pope Gélase, 86

" " the Dukes, Dijon, 213

Palais Abbatial, Cluny, 89

" de Justice, Dijon, 204, 215

Palermo, 67

Pallet, Seigneur de, 146

" Bourg du, 148

Papillon, Canon, 236

Paraclet, 150, 151, 153

Paradin, Chronicler of Savoy, 291

Paray-le-Monial, 127-135;

Hotel de Ville, 129;

church, 129-134

Pascal II., Pope, 70

Paris, Massacre of the Armagnacs, 200;

famine, 201

Patois, Burgundian, 270, 271

Perrault-Dabot, 271

Petit, Jean, 199

Philibert le Beau, Duke of Savoy, 281-284;

death of, 284;

tomb, 290

Philintus, 146

Philippe le Bon,

Duke of Burgundy, 191, 203, 206,

218, 234, 244

" de Rouvre (see Philippe le Hardi)

" le Bel, 89

" le Hardi, 136, 184-190, 204, 212, 217

" III., King of France, 158

" Pot, 210, 240-246

Pierre Damien, 80, 89

" de Chastellux, 88

" de Chandios, 154-158

" de Couhard, La, 16, 18, 29-32

" de la Wivre, La, 6, 8

" le Vénérable, 75, 79, 111,

117, 120, 146, 152

" Jayet, 129

" Salvee, La, 9

" de Vasco, 153

Pinot, Wine, 147

Pius VII., Pope, 146

Planoise, Forest of, 20

Pleurants, 191, 192, 194

Plombières, 215, 216

Pochouse, La (national dish), 266

Poillot, Denis, 54

Poirer aux Chiens, 4

Pommard, 252

Pons, Abbot of Cluny, 75

Pont d'Ain, Château de, 283, 284

Pontigny, Abbey of, 117, 125

Porcheresse, Château de, 20

Porch of Cathedral, Autun, 44, 45

Porte d'Arroux, 24, 26, 27, 29, 47

" des Marbres, 21, 28

" de Rome (See Porte des Marbres)

" St. Andoche, 24, 28, 29

" St. André, 24, 27

Post Office, Dijon, 205, 209

Pot, Philippe (see Philippe Pot)

" René, 242

Prat family (Lamartine), 107

Prudhon, 99, 168

Puits des Prophètes, Dijon, 189

Raoul Glaber, 163-167

Richelieu, 106

Rieux, Maréchal de, 196;

Hotel de, 198

Renée (Duc d'Anjou, Duc de Bar,

"Good King Renée"), 213

René (Duke of Lorraine), 207

Revonnat, 277

Robert I., Abbot of Cluny, 73

Robert, Abbot of Molême (see St. Robert)

Rochepot, Castle of, 240-243

Rolin, Cardinal, 44, 53

" Hotel, 51-53

" Nicolas, 44, 53, 233, 236

Roman Buildings (see Autun)

" Column (see Cussy la Colonne)

Romanesque Houses, Cluny, 95

Rouvres, 123, 124, 217

Rude, 205

Sacré Cœur, Cult of, 127

Sainte Larme, Fontaine de, 176

" " (Holy Tear), 175, 176

Saint Agricole, 145, 165

" Albéric, 113

" Antony, Temptation of, 204

" Bénigne de Dijon, Abbey of, 163, 184;

Cathedral, 208, 209

" " Missionary, 255

" Benedict, Rule of, 76-82

" Bernard, 83, 115, 150, 152, 216;

takes the Cowl, 114;

Legend of his birth, 115;

His Austerities, 116;

Appointed Abbot of Clairvaux, 117;

His Character, 118;

Correspondence with Pierre

le Vénérable, 120-122;

Cup of, 204;

Home of, 216, 217

Saint Catherine, Martyrdom of, 203, 204

" Cécile, 63

" Denis, Abbey of, 149, 150

" Germain d'Auxerre, Abbey of, 163

" Gildas, Abbey of, 150

" Hubert, Confraternity of, 4

" Lazare, and Cathedral of (see Autun)

" Leger-sous-Beuvray, 1-4, 8

" Louis (see Louis IX.)

" Loup, Village of, 258

" Marcel de Chalon, 137, 140, 142,

145, 146, 152

" Marcel, Eglise de, Cluny, 97

" Marguerite, Abbey and

Legend of, 237-240

" Martha, 41, 42, 43, 54

" Martial Chapel of, Cluny, 88

" Martin, Abbey of, Autun, 54, 6, 9,

255-257

" " Count of, 219

" " de Tours, Tomb of, 208

" " Legend of, 255-257

" " Saut de, 253

" " Puits de, 252-255

" Mayeul, Abbot of Cluny, 74

" Mary, 41, 43, 46, 54

" Michael, Church of, Dijon, 204, 210

" Nicholas, Church of, Paray, 129

" Odilon (see Odilon)

" Pierre, Mâcon, 172

" Philibert, Tournus, 160-162;

Dijon, 185

" Point, Chateau and Village of, 107-110

" " Church, 108

" " Guillaume de, 109

" Rémy, Provence, 110

" Robert, 111, 112;

Cross of, 204

" Stephen, Stoning of, 232;

Chapel of, Cluny, 88

" Symphorien, 49-51

" Valérien, 161

" Victor, Village of, 174

Saint Vincent, Mâcon, 172

" " Cathedral of,

Chalon-Sur-Saône, 158

" Vulbas, Fontaine de, 283

Salamanca, 281

Salernes, Jean de, 64

Sambin, Hugues, 204, 210

Sand, Georges, 57

Sandon, Lord of (Anthony de la Marche), 156

Sarcy, Guillaume de, 155

Savigny, 237

Scheffer, 262

Sens, Council of, 152

Seyl, Lord of, 156

Sluter, Claus, 192-194, 246

"Snake-Skin" tiling, 210

Soissons, Council of, 149

Suran, The, 272

Tacitus, 13, 32, 35

Talant, 216

Tanneguy du Chatel, 202

Tavannes, Vicomte de, 263

Tebsima-Ben-Beka, 174-177

Tebsima, Legend of, 174-177

Teillage (Autumn Fête), 265

Tescelin le Roux, 115, 117

Tetricus, 21, 28, 32

Theatre of Ephesus, 36

" " Roman (see Autun)

" " Smyrna, 36

Thermes, Palais des, Paris, 88

Thomas, Eden, 36

Touleur, 8

Toulongeon, the Herald, 154

" Tristan de, 155

" Claude, 155

Tour des Fromages

" de l'Eau Bénite, Cluny, 87, 99, 100

" de la Gênetoie, 24

" de l'Horloge, Cluny, 87

" du Logis du Roi (Tour de la

Terrasse) Dijon, 204, 213

Tour du Moulin, Cluny, 88

" des Ursulines, 29

Tournament of La Dame des Pleurs, 153-158

" " the Tree of Charlemagne, 217

Tournoi (see Tournament)

Tournus, 99, 160-171

Tramaye, 110

Trempée, La, 268

Tres Valles (Three Valleys), 177

Udalric, 77, 80

Vallée d'Absinthe, 152

Valois, Duke of House of, 185;

Madness of, 203, 205

Van Boghen, Lois de, 285, 286

" der Weyden, Roger, 100, 234, 236

" Hemerren, 203

Varennes, Bernard de, 82

Vauchignon, 82

Vaudrey, Guillaume de, 220

Velours, Forest of, 221

Vercingetorix, 15

Verdun-sur-le-Doubs, 258, 262-264

" Seigneurs de, 263

Vergy, Castle of, 238

" Maid of (see Marguerite)

Verrière, La, 10

Vesentio, Road of, 36

Vespasian, 18

Vézeley, 42, 45

Vienne, Sieurs de, 263

Violet-le-Duc, 22, 24, 27, 131, 161, 234

Vitruvius, 16

Voltaire, 47

Vulfrand, 137, 138, 142-144

Well of St. Martin, 252-255

Well of the Prophets

Werve, Claus de, 190, 191

William I., of England, 89

Wines, qualities of, 247

Wivern, 9

NEWPORT, SALOP:

BENNION, HORNE AND CO., LTD., PRINTERS.

Transcriber's notes:

--Different spelling of Citeaux and Cit-eaux results from usage in

text.

--Chalon-Sur-Saône (city) is different from Chalon and Châlon. No

further change to spelling.

--Other differences in spelling like Hotel/Hôtel remain in text as

intended by the author. Many of those result from usage of English

AND French texts.

--Caret character ^ used for superscripts

End of Project Gutenberg's Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy, by Percy Allen

Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy · 第 20 / 20 章