CHAPTER III

A MASTER-WORKMAN

It was characteristic of the oddity of Hearn's whole life that his way

to the Farthest East should have led through the Farthest West, and that

his way to a land where one's first impressions are of having strayed

into a child's world of faëry,--so elfishly frail and fantastically

small that one almost fears to move lest a rude gesture might destroy a

baby's dear "make believe,"--should have led through plains as gigantic

as empires, and mountain gorges vast as dreams.

Something of the contrast and amazement are recorded in "My First

Day"--the introductory paper in "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan":--

"The first charm is intangible and volatile as a perfume.... Elfish

everything seems; for everything as well as everybody is small and queer

and mysterious: the little houses under their blue roofs, the little

shop-fronts hung with blue, and the smiling little people in their blue

costumes.... Hokusai's own figures walking about in straw rain-coats and

straw sandals--bare-limbed peasants; and patient-faced mothers, with

smiling bald babies on their backs, toddling by upon their _geta_....

And suddenly a singular sensation comes upon me as I stand before a

weirdly sculptured portal,--a sensation of dream and doubt. It seems to

me that the steps, and the dragon-swarming gate, and the blue sky

arching over the roofs of the town, and the ghostly beauty of Fuji, and

the shadow of myself there stretching upon the grey masonry, must all

vanish presently ... because the forms before me--the curved roofs, the

coiling dragons, the Chinese grotesqueries of carving--do not really

appear to me as things new, but as things dreamed.... A moment and the

delusion vanishes; the romance of reality returns, with freshened

consciousness of all that which is truly and deliciously new; the

magical transparencies of distance, the wondrous delicacy of tones, the

enormous height of the summer blue, and the white soft witchery of the

Japanese sun."

That first witchery of Japan never altogether failed to hold him during

the fourteen years in which he wrought out the great work of his life,

though he exclaims in one of his letters of a later time, "The

oscillation of one's thoughts concerning Japan! It is the hardest

country to learn--except China--in the world." He grew aware too in time

that even he, with his so amazing capacity for entering into the spirit

of other races, must forever remain alien to the Oriental. After some

years he writes:--

"The different ways of thinking and the difficulties of the language

render it impossible for an educated Japanese to find pleasure in the

society of a European. Here is an astounding fact. The Japanese child is

as close to you as a European child--perhaps closer and sweeter because

infinitely more natural and naturally refined. Cultivate his mind, and

the more it is cultivated the farther you push him from you.

Why?--Because here the race antipodalism shows itself. As the Oriental

thinks naturally to the left where we think to the right, the more you

cultivate him the more he will think in the opposite direction from

you."

Though he arrived at a happy moment, his artistic _Wanderjahre_ done,

and the tools of his art, after long and bitter apprenticeship, at last

obedient to his will and thought in the hand of a master-workman; the

material with which he was to labour new and beautiful; yet he never

ceased to believe that his true medium was denied to him. In one of his

letters he cries:--

"Pretty to talk of my 'pen of fire.' I've lost it. Well, the fact is, it

is of no use here. There isn't any fire here. It is all soft, dreamy,

quiet, pale, faint, gentle, hazy, vapoury, visionary,--a land where

lotus is a common article of diet,--and where there is scarcely any real

summer. Even the seasons are feeble ghostly things. Don't please imagine

there are any tropics here. Ah! the tropics--they still pull at my

heart-strings. Goodness! my real field was there--in the Latin

countries, in the West Indies and Spanish America; and my dream was to

haunt the old crumbling Portuguese and Spanish cities, and steam up the

Amazon and the Orinoco, and get romances nobody else could find. And I

could have done it, and made books that would sell for twenty years."

Perhaps he never himself quite realized how much greater in importance

was the work chance had set him to do. In place of gathering up in the

outlying parts of the new world the dim tattered fragments of old-world

romance--as a collector might seek in Spanish-American cities faded bits

of what were once the gold-threaded, glowing tapestries brought to adorn

the exile of Conquistadores--he had the good fortune to be chosen to

assist at one of the great births of history. Out of "a race as

primitive as the Etruscan before Rome was"--as he declared he found

them--he was to see a mighty modern nation spring full-armed, with all

the sudden miraculous transformation of some great mailed beetle

bursting from the grey hidden shell of a feeble-looking pupa. He saw the

fourteenth century turn swiftly, amazingly, into the twentieth, and his

twelve volumes of studies of the Japanese people were to have that

unique and lasting value that would attach to equally painstaking

records of Greek life before the Persian wars. Inestimable, immortal,

would be such books--could they anywhere be found--setting down the

faiths, the traditions, the daily lives, the songs, the dances, the

names, the legends, the humble lore of plants, birds, and insects, of

that people who suddenly stood up at Thermopylæ, broke the wave from the

East, made Europe possible, and set the cornerstone of Occidental

thought. This was what Lafcadio Hearn, a little penniless, half-blind,

eccentric wanderer had come to do for Japan. To make immortal the story

of the childhood of a people as simple as the early Greek, who were to

break at Mukden the great wave of conquest from the West and to

rejuvenate the most ancient East.

So naturally humble was his estimate of himself that it is safe to

assert that not at this time, perhaps at no time, was he aware of the

magnitude and importance of the work he had been set to do. For the

moment he was concerned only with the odylic charm of the new faëry

world in which he found himself, but even in faëry-land one may find in

time rigidities underlying the charm. No Occidental at that period had

as yet divined the iron core underlying the silken courtesy of the

Japanese character. Within the first lustrum of his residence there

Hearn had grasped the truth, and expressed it in a metaphor. In the

volume entitled "Out of the East" he says:--

"Under all the amazing self-control and patience there exists an

adamantine something very dangerous to reach.... In the house of any

rich family the guest is likely to be shown some of the heirlooms.... A

pretty little box, perhaps, will be set before you. Opening it you will

see only a beautiful silk bag, closed with a silk running-cord decked

with tiny tassels. Very soft and choice the silk is, and elaborately

figured. What marvel can be hidden under such a covering? You open the

bag and see within another bag, of a different quality of silk, but very

fine. Open that, and lo! a third, which contains a fourth, which

contains a fifth, which contains a sixth, which contains a seventh bag,

which contains the strangest, roughest, hardest vessel of Chinese clay

that you ever beheld. Yet it is not only curious but precious; it may be

more than a thousand years old."

In time he came to know better than any other Occidental has ever known

all those smooth layers of the Japanese nature, and to understand and

admire that rough hard clay within--old and wonderful and precious.

Again he says:--

"For no little time these fairy folk can give you all the softness of

sleep. But sooner or later, if you dwell long with them, your

contentment will prove to have much in common with the happiness of

dreams. You will never forget the dream--never; but it will lift at

last, like those vapours of spring which lend preternatural loveliness

to a Japanese landscape in the forenoon of radiant days. Really you are

happy because you have entered bodily into Fairyland, into a world that

is not, and never could be your own. You have been transported out of

your own century, over spaces enormous of perished time, into an era

forgotten, into a vanished age, back to something ancient as Egypt or

Nineveh. That is the secret of the strangeness and beauty of things, the

secret of the thrill they give, the secret of the elfish charm of the

people and their ways. Fortunate mortal; the tide of Time has turned for

you! But remember that here all is enchantment, that you have fallen

under the spell of the dead, that the lights and the colours and the

voices must fade away at last into emptiness and silence."

For in time he realized that feudal Japan, with its gentleness and

altruism, had attained to its noble ideal of duty by tremendous coercion

of the will of the individual by the will of the rest, with a resultant

absence of personal freedom that was to the individualism of the

Westerner as strangling as the stern socialism of bees and ants.

These, however, were the subtler difficulties arising to confront him as

the expatriation stretched into years. The immediate concern was to find

means to live. His original purpose of remaining only long enough to

prepare a series of illustrated articles for _Harper's Magazine_--to be

later collected in book form--was almost immediately subverted by a

dispute with the publishers. The discovery, during the voyage, that the

artist who accompanied him was to receive more than double the pay

allowed for the text, angered him beyond measure, and this, added to

other matters in which he considered himself unjustly treated, caused

him to sever abruptly all his contracts.

It was an example of his incapacity to look at business arrangements

from the ordinary point of view that he declined even to receive his

royalties from the books already in print, and the publishers could

discharge their obligations to him only by turning over the money to a

friend, who after some years and by roundabout methods succeeded in

inducing him to accept it. That his indignation at what he considered an

injustice left him without resources or prospects in remote exile caused

him not a moment's hesitation in following this course. Fortunately a

letter of introduction carried him within the orbit of Paymaster

Mitchell McDonald, a young officer of the American navy stationed in

Yokohama. Between these two very dissimilar natures there at once sprang

up a warm friendship, from which Hearn derived benefits so delicately

and wisely tendered that even his fierce pride and sensitiveness could

accept them; and this friendship, which lasted until the close of his

life, proved to be a beautiful and helpful legacy for his children. The

letters to Paymaster McDonald included in Volume II have a special

character of gaiety and good fellowship--with him he forgot in great

measure the prepossessions of his life, and became merely the

man-of-the-world, delighting in the memories of good dinners, good wine

and cigars, enjoyed together; long evenings of gay talk and

reminiscences of a naval officer's polyglot experiences; long days of

sea and sunshine; but agreeable as were these cheerful experiences--so

foreign to his ordinary course of existence--he was continually driving

from him, in comic terror, the man who drew him now and again to forget

the seriousness of his task.

Professor Basil Hall Chamberlain, already famous for his studies of

Japanese life and literature, also became interested in the

wanderer,--and through his potent influence Hearn received an

appointment to the Jinjō-chūgakkō or Ordinary Middle School at Matsue,

in the province Izumo, in Shimane Ken, to which he went in August of

1890.

[Illustration: LAFCADIO HEARN AND MITCHELL McDONALD]

Matsue lies on the northern coast, near that western end of Japan which

trails like a streaming feather of land through the Eastern Pacific

along the coast of China. It is a town of about thirty-five thousand

inhabitants, situated at the junction of Lake Shinji and the Bay of

Naka-umi, and was at that time far out of the line of travel or Western

influence, the manners of the people remaining almost unchanged,

affording a peculiarly favourable opportunity for the study of feudal

Japan. The ruins of the castle of the Daimyō, Matsudaira,--descendant

of the great Shōgun Ieyasu,--who was overthrown in the wars of the

Meiji, still frowned from the wooded hill above the city, and still his

love of art, his conservatism of the old customs, his rigid laws of

politeness were stamped deeply into the culture of the subjects over

whom he had reigned, though ugly modern buildings housed the schools of

that Western learning he had so contemned, and which the newcomer had

been hired to teach. But this was a teacher of different calibre from

those who had preceded him. Here was one not a holder of the "little

yellow monkey" prepossession. Here was a rare mind capable at the age of

forty of receiving new impressions, of comprehending a civilization

alien to all its previous knowledge.

Out of this remarkable experience--a stray from the Nineteenth Century

moving about in the unrealized world of the Fourteenth--grew that

portion of his first Japanese book, "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan,"

which he called "From the Diary of an English Teacher," and "The Chief

City of the Province of the Gods." It is interesting to compare the

impression made upon the teacher by his pupils with the opinion formed

by the pupils of their foreign teacher.

Hearn says:--

"I have had two years' experience in large Japanese schools; and I have

never had personal knowledge of any serious quarrel between students....

A teacher is a teacher only: he stands to his pupils in the relation of

an elder brother. He never tries to impose his will upon them ...

severity would scarcely be tolerated by the students.... Strangely

pleasant is the first sensation of a Japanese class, as you look over

the ranges of young faces.... Those traits have nothing incisive,

nothing forcible: compared with Occidental faces they seem but

'half-sketched,' so soft their outlines are.... Some have a childish

freshness and frankness indescribable ... all are equally characterized

by a singular placidity--expressing neither love nor hate nor anything

save perfect repose and gentleness.... I find among the students a

healthy tone of skepticism in regard to certain forms of popular belief.

Scientific education is rapidly destroying credulity in old

superstitions.... But the deeper religious sense remains with him; and

the Monistic Idea in Buddhism is being strengthened ... by the new

education.... Shintō the students all sincerely are ... what the

higher Shintō signifies,--loyalty, filial piety, obedience to

parents, and respect for ancestors.... The demeanour of a class during

study hours is if anything too faultless. Never a whisper is heard;

never is a head raised from the book without permission.... My favourite

students often visit me of afternoons.... Their conversation and

thoughts are of the simplest and frankest.... Often they bring me gifts

of flowers, and sometimes they bring books and pictures to show

me--delightfully queer things,--family heirlooms. Never by any possible

chance are they troublesome, impolite, curious, or even talkative.

Courtesy in its utmost possible exquisiteness seems as natural to the

Izumo boy as the colour of his hair or the tint of his skin."

Of the teacher one of his pupils, Teizaburō Inomata, now a student at

Yale College, says:--

"We liked him for his appearance and for his gentle manners. He seemed

more pleasing in his looks than most foreigners do to the Japanese."

Masanobu Ōtani, his favourite pupil in Matsue, says: "He was a very

kind and industrious teacher, incomparable to the common foreigners

engaged in the Middle Schools of those days. No wonder therefore that he

won at once the admiration of all the teachers and students of the

school." He sends a copy of one of his own compositions corrected and

annotated by Hearn, and observes:--

"How he was kind and earnest in his teaching can well be seen by the

above specimen. It seems that themes for our composition were such as he

could infer our artless, genuine thoughts and feelings.... He

attentively listened to our reading, corrected each mispronunciation

whenever we did.... We Japanese feel much pain to pronounce 'l' and

'th.' He kindly and scrupulously taught the pronunciation of these

sounds. He was not tired to correct mispronunciation.... He was always

exact, but never severe."

Hearn's first residence in Matsue was at an inn in the quarter called

Zaimoku-chō, "but," says his wife in the reminiscences which she set

down to assist his biographer, "circumstances made him resolve to leave

it very soon. The chief cause was as follows: The daughter of the

innkeeper was suffering from a disease of the eyes. This aroused his

sympathy (as did all such troubles in a special manner); he asked the

landlord to send her to a hospital for treatment, but the landlord did

not care much about her, and refused, to Hearn's great mortification.

'Unmerciful fellow! without a father's heart,' he said to himself, and

removed to a house of his own on the shore of the lake."

This house was near the bridge Ōhashi which crossed the largest of

the three outlets from the lake to the bay, and commanded the beautiful

scenery described in "The Chief City of the Province of the Gods":--

"I slide open my little Japanese paper window to look out upon the

morning over a soft green cloud of foliage rising from the river-bounded

garden below. Before me, tremulously mirroring everything upon its

farther side, glimmers the broad glassy mouth of the Ōhashi-gawa,

opening into the Shinji Lake, which spreads out broadly to the right in

a dim grey frame of peaks.... But oh, the charm of the vision,--those

first ghostly love-colours of a morning steeped in mist soft as sleep

itself!... Long reaches of faintly-tinted vapour cloud the far lake

verge.... All the bases of the mountains are veiled by them ... so that

the lake appears incomparably larger than it really is, and not an

actual lake, but a beautiful spectral sea of the same tint as the

dawn-sky and mixing with it, while peak-tips rise like islands from the

brume--an exquisite chaos, ever changing aspect as the delicate fogs

rise, slowly, very slowly. As the sun's yellow rim comes into sight,

fine thin lines of warmer tone--violets and opalines--shoot across the

flood, tree-tops take tender fire.... Looking sunward, up the long

Ōhashi-gawa, beyond the many-pillared wooden bridge, one high-pooped

junk, just hoisting sail, seems to me the most fantastically beautiful

craft I ever saw,--a dream of Orient seas, so idealized by the vapour is

it; the ghost of a junk, but a ghost that catches the light as clouds

do; a shape of gold mist, seemingly semi-diaphanous, and suspended in

pale blue light."

Here, constantly absorbed when off duty in the study of the sights and

sounds of the city,--the multitudinous soft clapping of hands that

greeted the rising sun, the thin ringing of thousands of wooden _geta_

across the bridge, the fantastic craft of the water traffic, the trades

of the street merchants, the plays and songs of the children,--he began

to register his first impressions, to make his first studies for his

first book. Of its two volumes he afterwards spoke slightingly as full

of misconceptions and errors, but it at once, upon its appearance in

print, attracted the serious consideration of literary critics, and is

the work which, with "Japan: an Interpretation," remains most popular

with his Japanese friends. It records his many expeditions to the

islands and ports of the three provinces included in the Ken of Shimane,

and his study of the manners, customs, and religion of the people. Of

special value was his visit to the famous temple at Kizuki, to whose

shrine he was the first Westerner ever admitted. Lord Senke Takamori,

priest of this temple, was a friend of the family of the lady who

became Hearn's wife, and prince of a house which had passed its office

by direct male line through eighty-two generations; as old a house as

that of the Mikado himself. From him Hearn received the unusual courtesy

of having ordered for his special benefit a religious dance by the

temple attendants.

It was while Lafcadio was living in the house by the Ōhashi bridge

that he married, in January, 1891, Setsu Koizumi, a lady of high samurai

rank. The revolution in Japan which overthrew the power of the Shōguns

and restored the Mikado to temporal power had broken the whole feudal

structure of Japanese society, and with the downfall of the daimyōs,

whose position was similar to that of the dukes of feudal England, fell

the lesser nobility, the samurai, or "two-sworded" men. Many of these

sank into as great poverty as that which befel the _émigrés_ after the

French Revolution, and among those whose fortunes were entirely ruined

were the Koizumis. Sentarō Nishida, who appears to have been a sort of

head master of the Jinjō-chūgakkō, in special charge of the English

department, was of one of the lesser samurai families, his mother having

been an inmate of the Koizumi household before the decline of their

fortunes. Because of his fluency in English, as well as because of what

seems to have been a peculiar sweetness and dignity of character, he

soon became the interpreter and special friend of the new English

teacher. It was through his mediation that the marriage was arranged.

Under ordinary circumstances a Japanese woman of rank would consider an

alliance with a foreigner an inexpugnable disgrace; but the

circumstances of the Koizumis were not ordinary, and whatever may have

been the secret feelings of the girl of twenty-two, it is certain that

she immediately became passionately attached to her husband, and the

marriage continued to the end to be a very happy one. It was celebrated

by the local rites, as to have married according to English laws, under

the then existing treaties, would have deprived her of her Japanese

citizenship and obliged them to remove to one of the open ports; but the

question of the legality of the marriage and of her future troubled

Hearn from the beginning, and finally obliged him to renounce his

English allegiance and become a subject of the Mikado in order that she

and her children might never suffer from any complications or doubts as

to their position. This could only be achieved by his adoption into his

wife's family. He took their name, Koizumi, which signifies "Little

Spring," and for personal title chose the classical term for Izumo

province, Yakumo, meaning "Eight Clouds"--or "the place of the issuing

of clouds"--and also being the first word of the oldest known Japanese

poem.

Mrs. Hearn says: "We afterwards removed to a samurai house where we

could have a home of our own conveniently equipped with numbers of

rooms,--our household consisting of us two, maids, and a small cat. Now

about this cat: while we lived near the lake, when the spring was yet

cold, as I was watching from the veranda the evening shadow falling upon

the lake one day, I found a group of boys trying to drown a small cat

near our house. I asked the boys and took it home. 'O pity! cruel

boys!' Hearn said, and took that all-wet, shivering creature into his

own bosom (underneath the cloth) and kindly warmed it. This strongly

impressed me with his deep sincerity, which I ever after witnessed at

various occasions. Such conduct would be very extreme, but he had such

an intensity in his character." This cat seems to have been an important

member of the household. Professor Ōtani in referring to it says: "It

was a purely black cat. It was given the name of _Hinoko_ (a spark) by

him, because of its glaring eyes like live coals. It became his pet. It

was often held in his hat."

Later another pet was added to the establishment--an _uguisu_, sent to

him by "the sweetest lady in Japan, daughter of the Governor of Izumo,

who, thinking the foreign teacher might feel lonesome during a brief

illness, made him the gift of this dainty creature."

"You do not know what an _uguisu_ is?" he says. "An _uguisu_ is

a holy little bird that professes Buddhism ... very brief indeed

is my feathered Buddhist's confession of faith,--only the sacred

name of the _sutras_ reiterated over and over again, like a

litany--'_Ho-ke-kyō!_'--a single word only. But also it is written:

'He who shall joyfully accept but a single word from this _sutra_,

incalculably greater shall be his merit than the merit of one who should

supply all the beings in the four hundred thousand worlds with all

the necessaries for happiness.' ... Always he makes a reverent little

pause after uttering it. First the warble; then a pause of about five

seconds; then a slow, sweet, solemn utterance of the holy name in a tone

as of meditative wonder; then another pause; then another wild, rich,

passionate warble. Could you see him you would marvel how so powerful

and penetrating a soprano could ripple from so minute a throat, yet his

chant can be heard a whole _chō_ away ... a neutral-tinted mite almost

lost in his box-cage darkened with paper screens, for he loves the

gloom. Delicate he is, and exacting even to tyranny. All his diet must

be laboriously triturated and weighed in scales, and measured out to him

at precisely the same hour each day."

In this house, surrounded with beautiful gardens, and lying under the

very shadow of the ruined Daimyō castle, Hearn and his wife passed a

very happy year. The rent was about four dollars a month; his salaries

from the middle and normal schools, added to what he earned with his

pen, made him for the first time in his life easy about money matters.

He was extremely popular with all classes, from the governor to the

barber; the charm and wonder of the life about him was still unstaled by

usage, and he found himself at last able to achieve some of that beauty

and force of style for which he had so long laboured. He even found

pleasure in the fact that most of his friends were of no greater stature

than himself. It seems to have been in every way the happiest portion of

his life. Mrs. Hearn's notes concerning it are so delightful as to

deserve literal reproduction.

"The governor of the prefecture at that time was Viscount Yasusada

Koteda, an earnest advocate of preserving old, genuine Japanese

essentials, a conservatist. He was very much skilful in fencing; was

much respected by the people in general.

"Mr. Koteda was also very kind to Lafcadio.

"Thus all Izumo proved favourable to him. The place welcomed him and

treated him as a member of its family, a guest, a good friend, and not

as a stranger or a foreigner. To him all things were full of novel

interest; and the hospitality and good-naturedness of the city-people

were the great pleasure for him. Matsue was, as it were, a paradise for

him; and he became enthusiastically fond of Matsue. The newspapers of

the city often published his anecdotes for his praise. The students were

very pleased that they had a good teacher. In the meantime, the

wonderful thread of marriage happened to unite me with Lafcadio....

"When I first saw Lafcadio, his property was a very scanty one,--only a

table, a chair, a few number of books, a suit of both foreign and

Japanese cloth [clothes], etc.

"When he came home from school, he put on Japanese cloth and sat on

cushion and smoked.

"By this time he began to be fond of living in all ways like Japanese.

He took Japanese food with chopsticks.

"In his Izumo days, he was pleased to be present on all banquets held by

the teachers; he also invited some teachers very often and was very glad

to listen to the popular songs.

"On the New Year's day of 1891, he went round for a formal call with

Japanese _haori_ and _hakama_....

"But on those days I had to suffer from the inconvenience of

conversation between us. We could not understand each other very well.

Nor was Hearn familiar with complicated Japanese customs. He was a man

with a rare sensibility of feeling; also he had a peculiar taste. Having

been teased by the hard world, and being still in the vigour of his

life, he often seemed to be indignant with the world. (This turned in

his later years into a melancholic temperament.) When we travelled

through the province of Hōki, we had to rest for a while at a

tea-house of some hot-spring, where many people were making merry. Hearn

pulled my dress, saying: 'Stop to enter this house! No good to rest

here. It is an hell. Even a moment we should not stay here.' He was

often offended in such a way. I was younger than now I am and

unexperienced with the affairs of the world; and it was no easy task for

me then to reconcile him with the occasions.

"We visited Kūkedo, which is a cave on a rocky shore in the sea of

Japan. Hearn went out from the shore and swam for about two miles,

showing great dexterity in various feats of swimming. Our boat entered

the dark, hollow cave, and it was very fearful to hear the sounds of

waves dashing against the wall. There are many fearful legends

concerning this cave. To keep our boat from the evil-spirit, we had to

continue tapping our boat with a stone. The deep water below was

horribly blue. After hearing my story about the cave, Hearn began to put

off his clothes. The sailor said that there would be a great danger if

any one swam here, on account of the devil's curse. I dissuaded him from

swimming. Hearn was very displeased and hardly spoke with me till the

next day....

"In the summer of 1891 he visited Kizuki with Mr. Nishida. The next day

he sent for me to come. When I arrived at his hotel I found the two had

gone to sea for swimming, and Hearn's money, packed in his stocking, was

left on the floor. He was very indifferent in regard to money until in

later years he became anxious for the future of family, as he felt he

would not live very long on account of his failing health....

"He was extremely fond of freedom, and hated mere forms and restraint.

As a middle school teacher and as a professor in the University he was

always democratic and simple in his life. He ordered to make flock-coat

when he became University professor, and it was after my eager advice.

He at first insisted that he would not appear on public ceremony where

polite garments are required, according to the promise with Dr. Toyama,

and it was after my eager entreaties that at last he consented to have

flock-coat made for him. But it was only some four or five times that he

put on that during his life. So whenever he puts on that, he felt the

task of putting on very troublesome, and said: 'Please attend to-day's

meeting instead of me. I do not like to wear this troublesome thing;

daily cloth is sufficient, etc.' He disliked silk-hat. Some day I said

in joke: 'You have written about Japan very well. His Majesty the

Emperor is calling you to praise. So please put on the flock-coat and

silk-hat.' He answered: 'Therefore I will not attend the meeting;

flock-coat and silk-hat are the thing I dislike.'

"Our conversation was through Japanese language. Hearn would not teach

me English, saying: 'It is far lovelier for the Japanese women that they

talk in Japanese. I am glad that you do not know English.'

"Some time (when at Kumamoto) I told him of various inconveniences on

account of my ignorance of English. He said that if I were able to write

my name in English it would be sufficient; and instead he wanted me to

teach him Japanese alphabet. He made progress in this and were able to

write letters in Japanese alphabet with a few Chinese characters

intermixed.

"Our _mutual_ Japanese language made great progress on account of

necessity. This special Japanese of mine proved much more intelligible

to him than any skilful English of Japanese friend. Hearn was always

delighted with my Japanese. By and by he was able to teach Kazuo in

Japanese. He also taught Japanese stories to other children in Japanese.

"But on Matsue days we suffered in regard to conversations. Sometimes we

had to refer to the dictionary. Being fond from my girlhood of old

tales, I began from these Matsue days telling him long Japanese old

stories, which were not easy for him to understand, but to which he

listened with much interest and attention. He called our mutual Japanese

language 'Hearn san Kotoba' (Hearn's language). So in later years when

he met some difficult words he would say in joke to explain them in our

familiar 'Hearn san Kotoba.'"

* * * * *

Unfortunately this idyllic interval was cut short by ill health. The

cold Siberian winds that pass across Izumo in winter seriously affected

his lungs, and the little _hibachi_, or box of burning charcoal, which

was the only means in use of warming Japanese houses, could not protect

sufficiently one who had lived so long in warm climates. Oddly too, cold

always affected his eyesight injuriously, and very reluctantly, but

under the urgent advice of his doctor, he sought employment in a warmer

region and was transferred to the Dai Go Kōtō Gakkō, the great

Government College, at Kumamoto, situated near the southern end of the

Inland Sea. In "Sayonara"--the last chapter of the "Glimpses"--there is

a description of his parting:--

"The quaint old city has become so endeared to me that the thought of

never seeing it again is one I do not venture to dwell upon.... These

days of farewells have been full of charming surprises. To have the

revelation of gratitude where you had no right to expect more than plain

satisfaction with your performance of duty; to find affection where you

supposed only good will to exist: these are assuredly delicious

experiences.... I cannot but ask myself the question: Could I have lived

in the exercise of the same profession for the same length of time in

any other country, and have enjoyed a similar unbroken experience of

human goodness? From each and all I have received only kindness and

courtesy. Not one has addressed to me a single ungenerous word. As a

teacher of more than five hundred boys and men I have never even had my

patience tried."

There were presents from the teachers, of splendid old porcelains, of an

ancient and valuable sword from the students, of mementos from every

one. A banquet was given, addresses made, the Government officials and

hundreds of friends came to bid him good-bye at the docks, and thus

closed the most beautiful episode of his life.

Matsue was old Japan. Kumamoto represented the far less pleasing Japan

in the stage of transition. Here Hearn remained for three years, and at

the expiration of his engagement abandoned the Government service and

returned to journalism for a while. Living was far more expensive, the

official and social atmosphere of Kumamoto was repugnant to him, and he

fell back into the old solitary, retiring habits of earlier

days--finding his friends among children and folk of the humbler

classes, excepting only the old teacher of Chinese, whose name signified

"Moon-of-Autumn," and to whom he makes reference in several of his

letters. In "Out of the East"--the book written in Kumamoto--he says of

this friend: "He was once a samurai of high rank belonging to the great

clan of Aizu. He had been a leader of armies, a negotiator between

princes, a statesman, a ruler of provinces--all that any knight could be

in the feudal era. But in the intervals of military or political duty he

seems always to have been a teacher. Yet to see him now you would

scarcely believe how much he was once feared--though loved--by the

turbulent swordsmen under his rule. Perhaps there is no gentleness so

full of charm as that of the man of war noted for sternness in his

youth."

Of his childish friends he relates a pretty story. They came upon one

occasion to ask for a contribution of money to help in celebrating the

festival of Jizō, whose shrine was opposite his house.

"I was glad to contribute to the fund, for I love the gentle god of

children. Early the next morning I saw that a new bib had been put about

Jizō's neck, a Buddhist repast set before him.... After dark I went

out into a great glory of lantern-fires to see the children dance; and I

found, perched before my gate, an enormous dragonfly more than three

feet long. It was a token of the children's gratitude for the help I had

given them. I was startled for a moment by the realism of the thing, but

upon close examination I discovered that the body was a pine branch

wrapped with coloured paper, the four wings were four fire-shovels, and

the gleaming head was a little teapot. The whole was lighted by a candle

so placed as to make extraordinary shadows, which formed part of the

design. It was a wonderful instance of art-sense working without a speck

of artistic material, yet it was all the labour of a poor little child

only eight years old!"

It was in Kumamoto that Hearn first began to perceive the fierceness and

sternness of the Japanese character. "With Kyūshū Students" and

"Jiu-jutsu" contain some surprising foreshadowings of the then

unsuspected future. Such characteristics, however he might respect or

understand them, were always antipathetic to his nature, and his

relations with the members of the school were for the most part formal.

He mentions that the students rarely called upon him, and that he saw

his fellow teachers only in school hours. Between classes he usually

walked under the trees, smoking, or betook himself to an abandoned

cemetery on the ridge of the hill behind the college, where an ancient

stone Buddha sat upon a lotus--"his meditative gaze slanting down

between half-closed eyelids"--and where he wrought out the chapter in

"Out of the East" which is called "The Stone Buddha." It became a

favourite resort. Mrs. Hearn says: "When at Kumamoto we two often went

out for a walk in the night-time. On the first walk at Kumamoto I was

led to a graveyard, for on the previous day he said: 'I have found a

pleasant place. Let us go there to-morrow night.' Through a dark path I

was led on, until we came up a hill, where were many tombs. Dreary place

it was! He said: 'Listen and hear the voices of frogs.'"

He was still in Kumamoto when Japan went to war with China, and his

record of the emotion of the people is full of interest. The war spirit

manifested itself in ways not less painful than extraordinary. Many

killed themselves on being refused the chance of military service.

It was here in the previous year, November 17, 1893, that his first

child was born, and was named Kazuo, which signifies "the first of the

excellent, best of the peerless." The event caused him the profoundest

emotion. Indeed, it seemed to work a great change in all his views of

life, as perhaps it does in most parents, reconciling them to much

against which they may have previously rebelled. Writing to me a few

weeks after this event he declared with artless conviction that the boy

was "strangely beautiful," and though three other children came in later

years, Kazuo always remained his special interest and concern. Up to the

time of his death he never allowed his eldest son to be taught by any

one but himself, and his most painful preoccupation when his health

began to decline was with the future of this child, who appeared to have

inherited both his father's looks and disposition.

The constant change in the personnel of the teaching force of the

college, and many annoyances to which he was subjected, caused his

decision at the end of the three years' term to remove to Kōbe and

enter the service of the Kōbe _Chronicle_. Explaining to Amenomori he

says:--

"By the way, I am hoping to leave the Gov't service, and begin

journalism at Kōbe. I am not sure of success; but Gov't service is

uncertain to the degree of terror,--a sword of Damocles; and Gov't

doesn't employ men like you as teachers. If it did, and would give them

what they should have, the position of a foreign teacher would be

pleasant enough. He would be among thinkers, and find some

kindliness,--instead of being made to feel that he is only the servant

of petty political clerks. And I have been so isolated, that I must

acknowledge the weakness of wishing to be among Englishmen again--with

all their prejudices and conventions."

Kōbe was at that time, 1895, an open port, that is to say, one

of the places in which foreigners were allowed to reside without

special government permission, and under the extra-territorial rule

of their own consuls. Of Hearn's external life here there seems

to be but scant record. He worked as one of the staff of the

_Chronicle_,--his editorials frequently bringing upon him the wrath of

the missionaries,--he contributed some letters to the McClure Syndicate,

and there was much talk of a projected expedition, in search of material

for such work, to the Philippines or the Loo Choo Islands; a project

never realized. The journalistic work seriously affected his eyes, and

his health seems to have been poor at times. He made few acquaintances

and had almost no companions outside of his own household, where in 1896

another son was born.

Perhaps because of the narrowness of his social life his mental life

deepened and expanded, or possibly his indifference to the outer world

may have resulted from the change manifesting itself in his mental view.

"Kokoro" (a Japanese word signifying "The Heart of Things") was written

in Kōbe, as was also "Gleanings in Buddha-Fields," and they quite

remarkably demonstrate his growing indifference to the externals of

life, the deepening of his thought toward the intrinsic and the

fundamental. The visible beauty of woman, of nature, of art, grew to

absorb him less as he sought for the essential principle of beauty.

In one of the letters written about this time he says: "I have to

acknowledge to feeling a sort of resentment against certain things in

which I used to take pleasure. I can't look at a number of the _Petit

Journal pour Rire_ or the _Charivari_ without vexation, almost anger. I

can't find pleasure in a French novel written for the obvious purpose of

appealing to instincts that interfere with perception of higher things

than instincts. I should not go to the Paris Opera if it were next door.

I should not like to visit the most beautiful lady and be received in

evening dress. You see how absurd I have become--and this without any

idea of principle about the matter except the knowledge that I ought to

avoid everything which does not help me to make the best of

myself--small as it may be."

And again: "I might say that I have become indifferent to personal

pleasure of any sort ... what is more significant, I think, is the

feeling that the greatest pleasure is to work for others--for those who

take it as a matter of course that I should do so, and would be as much

amazed to find me selfish about it as if an earthquake had shaken the

house down.... It now seems to me that time is the most precious of all

things conceivable. I can't waste it by going out to hear people talk

nonsense.... There are rich natures that can afford the waste, but I

can't, because the best part of my life has been wasted in the wrong

direction and I shall have to work like thunder till I die to make up

for it."

The growing gravity and force of his thought was shown not only in his

books but in his correspondence. Most of the letters written at this

period were addressed to Professor Chamberlain, dealing with matters of

heredity and the evolution of the individual under ancestral racial

influences. The following extract is typical of the tone of the whole:--

"Here comes in the consideration of a very terrible possibility. Suppose

we use integers instead of quintillions or centillions, and say that an

individual represents by inheritance a total of 10-5 of impulses

favourable to social life, 5 of the reverse. (Such a balance would

really occur in many cases.) The child inherits, under favourable

conditions, the father's balance plus the maternal balance of 9,--four

of the number being favourable. We have then a total which becomes odd,

and the single odd number gives preponderance to an accumulation of

ancestral impulse incalculable for evil. It would be like a pair of

scales, each holding a mass as large as Fuji. If the balance were

absolutely perfect the weight of _one_ hair would be enough to move a

mass of millions of tons. Here is your antique Nemesis awfully

magnified. Let the individual descend below a certain level and

countless dead suddenly seize and destroy him,--like the Furies."

One begins to miss the beautiful landscapes against which he had set his

enchantingly realistic pictures of beautiful things and people, but in

the place of the sensuous charm, the honeyed felicities of phrase, he

offered such essays as the "Japanese Civilization" in "Kokoro," with its

astounding picture of New York City, and its sublimated insight into the

imponderable soul of the Eastern world--such intolerable imaginings as

"Dust" in the "Gleanings from Buddha-Fields," and the delicate

poignancies of "The Nun of the Temple of Amida" or of "A Street Singer."

I think it was at Kōbe he reached his fullest intellectual stature.

None of the work that followed in the next eight years surpassed the

results he there achieved, and much was of lesser value, despite its

beauty. He had attained to complete mastery of his medium, and had

moreover learned completely to master his thought before clothing it in

words--a far more difficult and more important matter.

Yet the clothing in words was no small task, as witness the accompanying

examples of how he laboured for the perfection of his vehicle. These are

not the first struggles of a young and clumsy artist, but the efforts at

the age of fifty-three of one of the greatest masters of English.

It was done, too, by a man who earned with his pen in a year less than

the week's income of one of the facile authors of the "six best

sellers."

As has been said of De Quincey, whom Hearn in many ways resembled, "I

can grasp a little of his morbid suffering in the eternal struggle for

perfection of utterance; I can share a part of his æsthetic torment over

cacophony, redundance, obscurity, and all the thousand minute delicacies

and subtleties of resonance and dissonance, accent and cæsura, that only

a De Quincey's ear appreciates and seeks to achieve or evade. How many

care for these fine things to-day? How many are concerned if De Quincey

uses a word with the long 'a' sound, or spends a sleepless night in his

endeavour to find another with the short 'a,' that shall at once

answer his purpose and crown his sentence with harmony? Who lovingly

examine the great artist's methods now, dip into the secret of his

mystery, and weigh verb against adjective, vowel against consonant, that

they may a little understand the unique splendour of this prose? And

who, when an artist is the matter, attempt to measure his hopes as well

as his attainments or praise a noble ambition perhaps shining through

faulty attempt? How many, even among those who write, have fathomed the

toil and suffering, the continence and self-denial of our great artists

in words?"

[Illustration: _Specimen of Hearn's MS., first draft._]

[Illustration]

The Life and Letters of Lafcadio Hearn, Volume 1 · 第 3 / 7 章