MUSIC AND MILLINERY.

The luminous suggestion that ladies attending the forthcoming

performances of _Parsifal_ should wear mantillas instead of aigrettes is

almost the first serious attempt to bring the arts of music and dress

into a true and fitting relation. We are therefore not in the least

surprised to learn that a movement is on foot to promote sumptuary

legislation to secure this end as part and parcel of Mr. LLOYD GEORGE's

far-reaching programme of social reform. Pending the realisation of

these schemes the Editor of _Music for the Million_ has had the happy

thought of interviewing a number of distinguished musicians, whose views

may be summarised herewith.

Sir HENRY WOOD said that conductors and orchestral players were

extraordinarily sensitive to sartorial influences. Unfortunately the

force of tradition was so strong that he found it impossible to indulge

his tastes. It was _de rigueur_ to conduct in either a frock or an

evening coat, but if he had his own way he would vary his garb for every

composer. For example, he would like to wear a harlequin's dress for

STRAUSS, a full-bottomed wig and ruffles for BACH, HAYDN and GLUCK, a

red tie and a cap of Liberty for SCHOeNBERG, and the uniform of a Cossack

of the Ukraine for TCHAIKOVSKY. Instead of which the utmost liberty that

he was allowed was a butterfly tie. He thought that members of the

orchestra ought to be permitted to consult their individual tastes in

dress. Certain restrictions would of course be needed. Thus, uniforms

were all very well for dance and restaurant bands, but he would not like

to see the Queen's Hall Symphony Orchestra competing with Blue

Bessarabians or Pink Alsatians.

Herr KUBELIK declared that a violin _virtuoso_ could never play his best

by daylight. Artificial light, full evening dress and diamonds were

indispensable in an audience. You would not play _bravura_ music to

people in morning costume; it was like drinking champagne out of a

teacup.

Mr. ALGERNON ASHTON said that as the highest form of musical composition

was a Funeral March he was in favour of making black obligatory for all

persons who attended high-class symphonic concerts. The kaleidoscopic

colours affected by modern women of fashion distracted serious artists

and sometimes made them play wrong notes. An exception might perhaps be

allowed in favour of dark purple, because of its association with

mourning, but the glaring colour schemes now in vogue were to be

deprecated as prejudicial to solemnity. It pained him to see music

reduced to the menial position of the handmaid of levity.

Professor BANTOCK said that he was entirely in favour of establishing an

equation between music and the costume of those who performed or

listened to it. For instance, he felt that his _Omar Khayyam_ would make

a far deeper impression if the audience were all clad in Persian garb.

The same need for local colour would be felt in the case of his new

Siberian symphony, though he admitted that it would be a little trying

if the work was performed in the dog days. The expense was perhaps a

consideration, but people could always afford to purchase a costume for

a fancy ball, and why not for a Symphony concert?

Madame CLARA BUTT said that she found the _timbre_ of her voice was

affected by the costumes of the audience. She strongly condemned the

practice followed by some ladies of fashion of bringing their Pekinese

dogs with them to concerts. It showed disrespect to the performers and

involved cruelty to animals, since the Pekinese only appreciated the

Chinese five-note scale and detested European harmonies.

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Punch, or the London Charivari, Vol. 146, January 28, 1914 · 第 12 / 53 题