PART. I.

[Illustration]

Mr. RAY’s Travels.

VOL. II.

[Illustration]

A

COLLECTION

OF CURIOUS

Travels and Voyages.

CONTAINING,

Dr. _Leonhart Rauwolf_’s Journey

Into the _Eastern_ Countries, _viz._

SYRIA, PALESTINE, or the HOLY LAND, ARMENIA,

MESOPOTAMIA, ASSYRIA, CHALDEA, _&c._

Translated from the Original _High Dutch_,

By _NICHOLAS STAPHORST_.

AND ALSO,

TRAVELS into GREECE, ASIA _minor_, EGYPT,

ARABIA _felix_, PETRÆA, ETHIOPIA, the RED

SEA, _&c._

Collected from the Observations of

Mons. BELON, PROSPER ALPINUS, Dr. HUNTINGDON,

Mr. VERNON, Sir GEORGE WHEELER, Dr.

SMITH, Mr. GREAVES, and others.

To which are added three Catalogues of such

_Trees_, _Shrubs_, and _Herbs_, as grow in the LEVANT.

By the Rev. _JOHN RAY_, F. R. S.

The SECOND EDITION Corrected and Improved.

VOL. II.

_LONDON_:

Printed for _J. Walthoe_, _D. Midwinter_, _A. Bettesworth_,

and _C. Hitch_, _W. Innys_, _R. Robinson_, _J. Wilford_, _A.

Ward_, _J._ and _P. Knapton_, _T. Longman_, _O. Payne_, _W.

Shropshire_, _J._ and _R. Tonson_, _T. Woodman_, _R. Chandler_,

and _J. Wellington_. 1738.

THE CONTENTS.

PART. I.

Chap. I. _Which way I went first of all, from ~Augspurg~ to

~Marseilles~, and from thence shipped over the Seas towards

~Tripoli~ of ~Syria~, situated in ~Phœnecia~._ pag. 1

Chap. II. _Of the famous city of ~Tripoli~, of it’s fruitful

neighbourhood and great trade; and also of the splendid baths,

and other magnificent buildings to be seen there. Their ways of

making Rusma, Pot-ashes, Soap, ~&c.~_ p. 14

Chap. III. _Of the ~Turks~ of high and low conditions, men

and women; of their employments, offices, manners, customs,

cloaths, as much as I could at ~Tripoli~ (during my abode)

understand, see, and learn thereof._ p. 26

Chap. IV. _A description of the plants I gathered at

~Tripoli~._ p. 35

Chap. V. _Which way I travell’d from ~Tripoli~ farther to the

two famous cities of ~Damant~ and ~Aleppo~._ p. 42

Chap. VI. _Of the situation of the potent city of ~Aleppo~; of

the buildings thereof, and also of the delicate fruits and

fine plants, that grow there, within and without gardens._ p. 45

Chap. VII. _Of the high places and authority of Bashaws, what

great courts they keep, and how they administer their offices;

as also of their way of living, of their privileges, of their

manners and conversation._ p. 51

Chap. VIII. _Of the great trading and dealing of the city of

~Aleppo~; as also several sorts of their meats and drinks; of

their ceremonies, and their peculiar way of sitting down at

meals._ p. 61

Chap. IX. _A short and plain relation of plants, which I

gather’d during my stay at ~Aleppo~, in and round about it, not

without great danger and trouble, which I glued upon paper very

carefully._ p. 73

PART. II.

Chap. I. _How I departed from ~Aleppo~ to the famous city of

~Bir~; and how I sailed from thence on the ~Euphrates~ to Old

~Babylon~._ p. 87

Chap. II. _Which way we went into the ship, and sailed to

~Racka~; and how the son of the King of ~Arabia~, with his

retinue came to our ship to demand his customs; what else we

saw by the way, and what we did suffer from the ~Arabians~ and

their Mendicants._ p. 96

Chap. III. _Of the city of ~Racka~, and of it’s situation; and

also something of the departure of the King of ~Arabia~; and of

his league with the ~Turkish~ Emperor; and also of the trouble

we had with the Custom-house-officer or ~Publican~._ p. 110

Chap. IV. _Of the inhabitants of the mountains, and the

great wilderness we came through to ~Deer~; of their ancient

origination, and miserable and laborious livelihood._ p. 117

Chap. V. _Of our voyage to the famous town ~Ana~, in which

we passed again through great sandy wildernesses; for the

performance whereof we must provide ourselves with victuals,

and be very careful in our navigation. Some relation of the

inhabitants, of their cloaths, and other things we did observe

and see by the way, and what else did happen unto us._ p. 124

Chap. VI. _Which way we travell’d from ~Ana~ farther to Old

~Babylon~, by some ancient towns call’d ~Haddidt~, ~Juppe~,

~Idt~, and saw more pleasant, fruitful and well cultivated

fields on each side than before._ p. 132

Chap. VII. _Of Old ~Babylon~ the Metropolis of ~Chaldee~, and

it’s situation; and how it is still to this day, after it’s

terrible desolation, to be seen, with the tower or turret, and

the old ruined walls lying in the dust._ p. 137

Chap. VIII. _Of the famous city of ~Bagdat~, call’d ~Baldac~;

of it’s situation, strange plants, great traffick, and

Merchants of several nations that live there, together with

several other things I saw and did learn at my departing._ p. 142

Chap. IX. _Which way I came in my return from ~Bagdat~, through

~Assyria~, the confines of ~Persia~, and the province of the

~Curters~, to the town ~Carcuch~, ~Capril~, &c. and at length

to the river ~Tygris~, to ~Mossel~, that famous town which was

formerly call’d ~Nineveh~._ p. 159

Chap. X. _Which way we went through ~Mesopotamia~, by the way

of ~Zibin~ and ~Orpha~, to ~Bir~, not without a great deal

of danger; and afterwards how we passed the great river, the

~Euphrates~, and came at last into ~Syria~, by ~Nisib~, to the

famous town of ~Aleppo~._ p. 168

Chap. XI. _Of the ~Turkish~ Physicians and Apothecaries; of my

comrade ~Hans Ulrich Krafft~ of ~Ulm~’s hard imprisonment; of

the great danger that I was in, in the two towns of ~Aleppo~

and ~Tripoli~; of the murdering of some Merchants, and what

else did happen when I was there._ p. 179

Chap. XII. _Of the large and high mount of ~Libanus~, it’s

inhabitants and strange plants that are found there._ p. 186

Chap. XIII. _Cunning and deceitful stratagems of the ~Grand

Turk~ against the inhabitants of mount ~Libanus~, the ~Trusci~,

and ~Maronites~; and how he made war with them, and what damage

they sustained by it._ p. 198

PART. III.

Chap. I. _A Short description of his departure from ~Tripoli~,

a town of ~Phœnicia~ in ~Syria~, and how I went from thence to

~Joppa~._ p. 203

Chap. II. _A short relation of my travels by land from the

harbour of ~Joppa~, to the city of ~Jerusalem~._ p. 212

Chap. III. _A plain description of the city of ~Jerusalem~, as

it was to be seen in our time; and of the adjacent countries._ p. 220

Chap. IV. _Of mount ~Sion~, and it’s holy places._ p. 229

Chap. V. _Of the mount ~Moria~, and the glorious temple of

~Solomon~._ p. 239

Chap. VI. _Of the ~Saracens~ and ~Turkish~ religion, ceremonies

and hypocritical life, with a short hint how long time their

reign shall last after ~Mahomet~’s decease._ p. 257

Chap. VII. _Of mount ~Bethzetha~, and the two houses of

~Pilate~ and ~Herod~._ p. 258

Chap. VIII. _Of mount ~Calvaria~, and the holy grave of our

Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ._ p. 260

Chap. IX. _Here follow some epitaphs of the Christian Kings of

~Jerusalem~, together with a short relation of their reigns and

mighty deeds._ p. 271

Chap. X. _A common account of several sorts of Christians, but

chiefly of them that are always to be found in the temple of

mount ~Calvaria~. And also how these, and many other strangers,

are treated by the ~Turkish~ Emperor (as by their chief head,

to whom they are generally subjected) and his officers._ p. 275

Chap. XI. _Of the ~Greeks~._ p. 288

Chap. XII. _Of the ~Surians~ that esteem themselves to be

Christians._ p. 290

Chap. XIII. _Of the ~Gregorians~._ p. 291

Chap. XIV. _Of the ~Armenians~ and their religion._ p. 292

Chap. XV. _Of the ~Nestorians~._ p. 294

Chap. XVI. _Of the ~Jacobites~ call’d ~Golti~._ p. 296

Chap. XVII. _Of the ~Abyssins~, Priest ~John~, call’d

~Lederwick~, subject unto the King of the ~Moors~._ p. 297

Chap. XVIII. _Of the ~Maronites~._ p. 300

Chap. XIX. _Of the ~Latinists~ or ~Papists~._ p. 301

Chap. XX. _Of the Knights of the Temple of ~Jerusalem~, the

Order of the ~Johannites~._ p. 304

Chap. XXI. _A short description of some places, hills, valleys,

~&c.~ that lie near and about ~Jerusalem~. Of the mount of

~Olives~, and it’s holy places._ p. 309

Chap. XXII. _Of ~Bethlehem~, the mountains of ~Judea~, and

their famous places. Where also is made mention of my returning

back from ~Jerusalem~ to ~Tripoli~._ p. 316

Chap. XXIII. _How I took ship at ~Tripolis~ in ~Syria~, and

sailed back from thence to ~Venice~, and travell’d home again

to my own relations at ~Augspurg~._ p. 327

VOL. II.

Chap. I. _Mr ~Belon~’s remarks in the island of ~Creta~ or

~Candy~._ p. 341

Chap. II. _A description of mount ~Athos~, commonly call’d

~Monte Santo~, by Mr ~Belon~._ p. 345

Chap. III. _An account of a journey by land from mount ~Athos~

to ~Constantinople~, wherein the gold and silver mines of

~Macedonia~, together with many antiquities and natural

rarities are described._ p. 349

Chap. IV. _The ways of fishing on the ~Propontis~, the

~Bosphorus~, and ~Hellespont~; as also of the fishes taken. By

M. ~Belon~._ p. 353

Chap. V. _Of some beasts and mechanic trades at

~Constantinople~._ p. 354

_Mr ~Francis Vernon~’s letter, written to Mr ~Oldenburg~, ~Jan

10, 1675-6~._ p. 355

_Some plants observed by Sir ~George Wheeler~, in his Voyage to

~Greece~ and ~Asia minor~._ p. 364

_Historical observations relating to ~Constantinople~, by

the reverend and learned ~Tho. Smith~, D.D. Fellow of ~Magd.

College Oxon.~ and of the ~Royal Society~._ p. 368

_An account of the city of ~Prusa~ in ~Bithynia~, and a

continuation of the historical observations relating to

~Constantinople~._ p. 380

_An account of the latitude of ~Constantinople~ and ~Rhodes~;

by the learned Mr ~John Greaves~._ p. 404

Chap. VI. _Some observations made in a Voyage to ~Egypt~, by Mr

~Belon~._ p. 409

_More Observations made in ~Egypt~, by ~Guilandinus~, ~Alpinus~

and others_.

Chap. I. _Of the weather and seasons in ~Egypt~._ p. 411

Chap. II. _Of the meats and drinks of ~Egypt~._ p. 412

Chap. III. _Of the diseases and physic._ p. 414

_Of the Pyramids of ~Egypt~, by Mr ~Greaves~, Professor of

Astronomy in the University of ~Oxford~. A description of the

first Pyramid._ p. 417

_A description of the second Pyramid._ p. 436

_A description of the third Pyramid, out of Mr ~Belon~, and Mr

~Greaves~._ p. 439

_Of the rest of the Pyramids in the ~Libian~ desart._ p. 441

_In what manner the Pyramids were built._ p. 443

_Of the ~Pyramids~, ~Sphynx~, ~Mummies~, &c. by Father

~Vansleb~ and others._ p. 448

_Of the ~Sphynx~._ p. 452

_Of the wells where the ~Mummies~ are._ p. 453

_A description of an entire body of a ~Mummy~._ p. 457

_A letter from ~Dublin~ concerning the Porphyry pillars in

~Egypt~, by Dr ~Huntingdon~._ p. 461

_A journey from ~Grand Cairo~ to ~Mecca~._ p. 467

_Of the Aga sent to meet the Caravan upon their return._ p. 470

_Of ~Mecca~ and ~Medina~._ p. 472

_An extract of a journey through part of ~Arabia Felix~, from

the copy in ~Ramusio~’s collection._ p. 475

_Some observations made by Sir ~Henry Middleton~, and other

~Englishmen~ in ~Arabia Felix~, &c._ p. 477

_Of the ways and roads between ~Egypt~ and ~Ethiopia~._ p. 479

_Of ~Ethiopia~: By ~Michael~ of ~Tripoli~, Embassador from the

~Habessine~ Emperor to the Grand Signior._ p. 481

_More Observations of ~Ethiopia~, by Father ~Lobo~, Father

~Alvarez~, Father ~Tellez~, and others; extracted from their

~Portuguese~ voyages._ p. 487

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

Dr _Leonhart Rauwolff_’s

TRAVELS

INTO THE

Eastern Countries.

In which is chiefly treated, how he got into _Syria_, and what strange

things he there saw and observed.

PART. I.

CHAP. I.

_Which way I went first of all, from ~Augspurg~ to ~Marseilles~, and from

thence shipped over the seas towards ~Tripoli~ of ~Syria~, situated in

~Phœnicia~._

I having always had a natural inclination, almost from my infancy, to

travel into foreign Countries, but chiefly into the Eastern ones, which

have been of old celebrated for fertility, which were cultivated by the

most ancient people, and whose princes in former ages, have been the

most potent monarchs of the world; not only to observe their lives,

manners and customs, but chiefly to gain a clear and distinct knowledge

of those delicate herbs, described by _Theophrastus_, _Dioscorides_,

_Avicenna_, _Serapio_, &c. by viewing them in their proper and native

places, partly that I might more exactly describe them, especially

the most strange and rare; partly also, to provoke the Apothecaries

to endeavour to procure those that are necessary for them to have in

their shops: I strove always to put this my desire into execution, but

was forced to defer it until, in the year of our Lord 1573, I found an

opportunity, by my honour’d brother-in-law Mr _Melchior Manlick_, senior,

which was very convenient. He received me presently, (having before a

design to increase the number of them that were employ’d in his trade)

and fitted me out for my voyage, that I might go with the first company

that should travel for _Marseilles_, and then from thence farther in one

of their ships to _Tripoli_, situated in that part of _Syria_ which is

call’d _Phœnicia_.

After that my honour’d friend, Mr _Frederick Rentzen_, of that same

city, was come to me, we set out the _18th_ of _May_, _Anno 1573_,

from _Augspurg_ towards _Lindaw_, designing to go through _Piedmont_

to _Milan_ and _Nissa_, and so farther: The same day we came to

_Mindelheim_, a very pleasant town with a princely castle, situated upon

the _Mindel_, then belonging to the baron of _Frundsberg_.

The _19th_ at noon we came to _Memmingen_, a very pleasant city of the

empire, and at night to _Leutkirch_.

The _20th_ we rode thorough _Wangen_, another imperial city, situated in

_Algaw_, where they drove a very good trade with fine ticking and linnen

cloth; about noon we arrived at _Lindaw_, an imperial city situated in

the _Boden_ sea, where there is a very great depository or staple of all

sorts of commodities or merchandizes: some have call’d this the _German

Venice_, because it is in like manner situated in water, and hath also a

great trade. After dinner we crossed the lake towards _Fuzach_, a village

not far from _Bregentz_, towards the _Rhine_.

The _21st_ about breakfast-time we came to _Veldkirch_, a very pleasant

town, situated upon the _Yll_, belonging now to the house of _Austria_,

but formerly to the counts of _Montfort_. By the way I saw several fine

plants, _viz._ _Saxifraga Aurea_, _Caryophyllata Alpina_, a fine sort

of _Bellis-major_, _Christa galli_ with white flowers, and _Auricula

Ursi_ with brown flowers, _&c._ At night we came to _Mayenfeld_,

belonging to the _Grawpunters_, upon the _Rhine_, which runs by the town,

and there runs into it a river call’d _Camingen_, which slides down

between high rocks, where the famous warm bath (from an adjacent abby,

call’d _Pfeffers_) riseth, which may be numbered amongst the wonderful

waters, in regard of it’s admirable operation in strengthening lame and

contracted members, and hath this property beyond other baths, that it

loseth itself from _October_ till _May_, and then it cometh on again

powerfully.

The _22d_ we came at night to _Chur_, a very ancient city, where also

is a deposition of Goods that are brought thither from _Germany_ by

pack-horses over the mountains. A seat of that Bishop lyeth half an

hour’s going from the _Rhine_, wherefore this bishopric is accounted

the chief of all the bishoprics of the _Rhine_, or the _Pfaffen gaste_,

call’d by others, because it is situated near the first beginning of

the _Rhine_, according to the ancient proverb: _Costentz_ the biggest,

_Basil_ the pleasantest, _Strasburg_ the noblest, _Spires_ the devoutest,

_Worms_ the poorest, _Mentz_ the worthiest, _Trier_ the ancientest, and

_Collen_ the richest.

The _23d_ we rode to _Tusis_, an ancient village belonging to the

_Grawpunters_, the name whereof shews it’s original, for the _Rhetians_

are descended from the _Tuscans_, who under the conduct of one _Rhætus_

of old took possession of those countries; not far off upon a high

mountain is still situated a ruin’d castle, call’d _Realt_, or which is

righter, _Rhœtia alta_, deriv’d also from the _Rhetians_.

The _24th_ at noon we came by the _Splewer-hill_ into a village call’d

_Splugi_, not far from the beginning, head, or sourse of the _Rhine_:

Thence we passed over the hill, and came at night to a little village

call’d _Gampolschin_, situated in a valley of the same name, where we

rested.

Monday the _25th_ at noon we came to _Clæven_, or _Clavenna_, a very

ancient town, belonging to the _Bunts_, which had anciently a strong

castle, which was demolished by the _Grawpunters_ themselves, _Anno

1524_, after it was cunningly taken from them by _Castel de Maess_ and

_John Jacob de Medicis_, in which bustle the town was also ruin’d, for

the gates and walls were beaten down, that no enemy might after that

lodge himself there again. From _Clæven_ we went to _Riva_ upon the

_Lago di como_, where the water _Addua_ runs into the lake, and yet

notwithstanding adds no water to it, nor taketh any from it, but only

runs strait through it; and so doth the _Rhine_ through the lake call’d

the _Boden-Sea_: From thence we travell’d to _Gera_ upon the same lake,

where we lay all night. On the bank I saw some purple-colour’d lillies, a

sort of _Lilium Saracenicum_ with small leaves, and in the old walls the

_Cymbalaria_.

The _26th_ about noon we came to _Como_, a very glorious and pleasant

city, from whence the lake hath it’s name to this day. From thence we

rode the same night to _Milan_, the metropolis of that dukedom. What

strange passages have been committed in this town before it was possessed

by the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth, after the decease of the last duke

_Francis Sfortia_, is related sufficiently in History.

The _27th_ we rode through _Binasco_, a pleasant village, where the very

learned and famous _Andreas Alciatus_, Doctor in Law, and Professor of

several Universities in _France_ and _Italy_, hath built a very glorious

palace; and in the evening passing by the great park (in which in the

year 1525, was fought that bloody battel between _Francis_ King of

_France_, and the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth’s officers, in which the

King himself was made prisoner, and many of his men kill’d) the same

night arrived at _Pavia_, an ancient glorious city, situated on the river

_Tesin_, where the Kings of the _Longobards_ did formerly keep their

courts, and afterwards _Charles the Great_, the first _German_ Emperor,

did institute an University, which has brought up many eminent and

learned men since.

The _28th_ departing from _Pavia_, we passed the River _Padus_, or

_Eridanus_, which is believed to be the biggest river in _Italy_, to

_Vogera_, a pleasant village, situated on the river _Stafora_, there

we began to take post, and had eighteen stages to _Nissa_: By noon we

arrived at _Dertona_, a pretty town, yet not very full of people, by

reason of the many wars and intestine quarrels in which it was engaged,

belonging to the Duke of _Milan_. In this country I found whole acres

sown with _Wood_, and there I saw the _White Poplar_, also _Millefolium

flore luteo_, and farther upon the hill _Brotho_ the _Cineraria_, and

the _Stœchas Citrina_, _Cotinus Plinii_, and many more fine plants. At

night we came to _Alexandria della Paglia_, that is to say, _of Chaff_.

When heavy and long wars did arise between the Emperor _Frederick_ the

first, and the towns of _Lombardy_, by instigation of Pope _Alexander_

the third, the towns of _Lombardy_ did agree to compile this city out

of several villages in the year 1168, and did fortify it the year next

ensuing, and call’d it, after the Pope’s name, _Alexandria_; but the

_Imperialists_ call’d it _Alexandria of Straw_, which name it doth retain

to this day; yet we did not stay there, but rode the same night to

_Bellizona_, a strong place, which perhaps formerly had it’s own princes,

which did sell it from _Uri_ and his relations, because they could not

defend it from the Duke of _Milan_ in the year 1422, and yet it cost a

great deal of blood, until the _Switzers_ got it into safe possession in

the year 1500.

The _29th_ at noon we came to _Ast_, a considerable city belonging to the

dukedom of _Milan_, where the King of _Spain_ keeps a garrison, which

had just then received the new Governour of _Milan_, and conducted him

into the city. Not far off lieth _Carmagnola_, belonging to the King of

_France_, and to the Marquisate of _Saluzo_, where is kept a _French_

garrison, as at _Moncalier_, which is very near it, the Duke of _Savoy_

hath a garrison; and so garrisons of three eminent princes lie very near

one another. That night we lodged in a pitiful village call’d _Baieron_.

The _30th_ we rode thro’ _Racones_ and _Savigliano_, two small villages,

and at night came to _Coni_.

The last of _May_, after we had broke our fast in a village call’d

_Limona_, we came to mount _Brothus_, where we saw many pleasant

vineyards; and so by _Tenda_ into another village, call’d _Sorgo_, where

we staid all night.

The first of _June_ we reached to _Nissa_ in the morning, a city with

a strong citadel, upon the _Tyrrhenian_ sea, belonging to the Duke of

_Savoy_, which the _Turkish_ Admiral _Barbarossa_ did for a long time

besiege with great fury, and yet was forc’d to leave it, although he

had the city in his possession, in the year 1543. Thither also came

_Francis_ King of _France_, and the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth, to

Pope _Paul_ the third, to have peace made between them. Thereabouts I

espy’d some fine plants, but chiefly two sorts of _Papaver Corniculatum_,

with large and stately flowers, yellow and brown; and also the _Ladanum

latifolium_, and upon the hill towards _Villa Franca_, a _Convolvulus_

with white and purple-strip’d flowers, and with long and cut leaves.

The second we went from thence with more company, passing through the

villages of _Antibo_, _Cacabo_, _Luc_, _Brignola_, _&c._ (where I found

in the shops a sort of very delicate preserved Prunes, call’d in _English

Prunellos_’s, which would be very useful in burning fevers against the

thirst, in great quantity) to _Marseilles_, which maketh thirty _French_

miles or leagues; and we rode so fast onward, during this journey, that

we arrived there in nineteen days after our departure, that is, on the

fifth day of _June_: By the way I saw _Convolvulus foliis acutis_, _Rubia

Tinctorum_, _Stœchas_, a fine _Sesely Peloponnesiacum_, _Thymelæa_,

_Cistus_ with white and purple flowers, and also a kind of _Ladanum_ of

the learned _Carolus Clusius_, with small Rosemary-leaves, _Terebinthus_,

_Ilex Coccifera_, _Aspalathus_, and the _Polemonium Monspeliensium_ of

_Rembert Dodonæus_, call’d _Trifolium fruticans_, _Ruscus_, _Lentiscus_,

_Calamintha montana_, some common thistles, and others.

In _Marseilles_ where I was lodged in my forenam’d kinsman’s house, to

stay untill the ships were ready, I met with one _John Ulrich Kraft_,

son of _John Kraft_, one of the Privy Council at _Ulm_, who was arrived

there a few days before, also with the same intention to go along with

us, about his own business. We staid together, and while the ships

were fitting out, we made ourselves acquainted with the Physicians

and Apothecaries, but above the rest with one experienced man, _Jacob

Renaud_, a great lover of plants, who shew’d me in his garden many pretty

and strange simples, _viz._ _Scammonium verum_, _Ambrosia_, _Moly_,

_Ammi_, _Aloës_, _&c._, and a great many dry’d and laid between papers.

I found also about the city, _Trifolium Asphaltites_, _Lactuca marina_,

_Dendillaria_, _Tragacantha Guilhelmi Rondeletii_, a great _Scabiosa_

with white flowers, _Gratiola_, _Gnaphalium marinum_, _Medica marina_,

_Polygonum marinum_, _Eryngium marinum_, _Coris Monspeliensium_, another

sort of _Tamariscus_, and of _Consolida_, with yellow sweet flowers,

which I also found between _Nimes_, and _Pont du gard_, an old, strong,

and fine building, upon which I did find _Ruta Silvestris_, a sort of

_Verbascum foliis dissectis_, _Papaver corniculatum flore flavo_; I also

found thereabouts _Chondrilla Viminea_, growing chiefly in the vineyards,

_Conyza major_, _Vermicularis fruticans_, _Carduus tomentosus_, not

unlike to _Leucacantha_, _Nepa Lobelii in adversariis novis_; I also

found _Tartonrayre_, _Aster atticus luteus_, _Psyllium_, _Seseli

Æthiopicum fruticans_, _Jujubes_, _red Valeriana_, _Corruda Rembert.

Dodon._, the first kind of _Catanance Dioscor._, which I first spy’d by

it’s dry’d leaves, just like a Vulture’s claw, and many others, not

needful to be here related.

After that the ship _Santa Croce_ was laden, victuall’d for three months,

and provided with guns, and all other necessaries for a three months

voyage; we two went with our master, _Anthony Reinard_, with some others

belonging to him, in a frigat, the first day of _September_, in the year

1673, to our ship, which lay at anchor with several other laden ships,

near the adjacent islands, with an intention to set sail the next day.

The next day about two in the afternoon, when God sent us a good wind,

we hoisted up our sails, and went on: When our patron began to exhort

his men to agree together, and to be obedient to him, which they all

faithfully promised; then we went to prayers, and recommended ourselves

to the protection of God Almighty.

In the first setting out, before we got to sea, our ship came so near to

another, that they touch’d almost; and had not the seamen in time got

them off, we might have suffer’d shipwreck.

When this was over, and we out of danger, we sail’d on with full sails

six of us, and advanc’d so fairly, that we lost the sight of land before

night, and could see nothing but sky and water.

Not long after, most of us began to be sea-sick, and to bring up what we

had eaten some days before, but I and my comrade _Kraft_ purged ourselves

that night so well, that we were very fresh again the next morning. Some

of the rest remain’d sick for seven days after, and not one of us,

altho’ we were forty eight, but was sick, and found an alteration after

our shipping off.

After we had sail’d two days with a favourable wind, by the _Latins_

call’d _Caurus_, but by the _French_ and _Italians_, _Maistral_, which

bloweth between north and west, and proceeded an hundred _French_

leagues, there arose on the fourth day about midnight another wind,

call’d _Græco_, and by the _Latins_, _Cæcias_, which the more it went to

the east, the more it was against us; so that we being hindred from going

eastward, were forced to go sideways, and to traverse up and down, and

were driven so far southwards, that on sunday night and monday morning

we sail’d in sight of the coast of _Barbary_. After the wind was laid a

little, and the dolphins appear’d in great numbers, we hoped for better

weather, but for want of it, finding ourselves advance towards _Africa_

more and more, we were forced to tack about, and to direct our course

towards _Marseilles_ again.

We going thus back again, contrary to our intentions, feared that the

wind would hold so a while, but contrary to our expectation, it came to

be so calm towards the night, that we could hardly perceive any. Then

we hoped it would change, which did also succeed accordingly, for the

next morning before break of day the _Maistral_ began to blow again,

which pleased us extremely, and so we return’d and pursued our former

course again towards the east, and on monday we sail’d so fast, that in

an hours time we made ten _Italian_ miles, and on the 9th day came into

the streights of _Sardinia_ and _Africa_, where we saw an island call’d

_Gallicia_, which, altho’ it be but small, yet, because of the high

mountains, is seen afar off; we left it about thirty leagues on one side

of us. This island is subject to no body, wherefore a great many pirates

lye lurking there: In it is no great matter to be seen, only wild Capers

grow there in great plenty. We, finding ourselves in this dangerous

place, were not idle, altho’ the ship was well provided with guns, pikes,

and other arms, but got our great guns ready, and fill’d our chamber, in

which we two were, with guns and swords, so that it look’d rather like

an armoury of the whole ship than a chamber. Moreover, because we were

afraid of some huge rocks that lye in the sea, chiefly of them which the

seamen call _Leuci_, they observ’d them diligently, not only in their sea

chart, to know which way they might avoid them, but kept a good watch all

that night to observe them, and so with the help of God we got safely

clear of them.

A little after we came in view of the kingdom of _Tunis_ in _Africa_,

with some adjacent islands; amongst them there is one call’d _Simles_,

which, tho’ but small, is very fruitful, and therein groweth the best

_Aristolochia rotunda_ in abundance.

We lost this the next morning, and westward upon our right hand, at about

forty miles distance, we saw another, call’d _Panthalarea_, subject to

the King of _Spain_, which is inhabited by above three hundred people;

_Sicily_ on our left, because the night fell in, we did not then see,

but came so near it, that early in the morning we could not only see the

hills and mountains, and chiefly the _Mongibello_, which is very high,

situated at the other side of the famous city of _Syracusa_, but also the

buildings and steeples distinctly; we sail’d also the whole day by that

side that lieth over-against the isle of _Malta_, so long till we came to

the last point thereof: And altho’ we were not in a little danger there,

because of the war, yet we saw no more than one small ship early in the

morning by _Malta_, which we took to be of _Marseilles_. So, God be

praised, we arrived very well, and without any hindrance at the farthest

point of _Sicily_, on the 11th day of _September_ in the evening, which

is reckon’d to be 900 _Italian_ miles from _Marseilles_; and we hoped

also with the help of the Almighty to go the rest of our voyage to

_Cyprus_, which is 1300 more, three of which are reckon’d to a _French_

league, for we crossed the _Adriatick_ and _Tyrrhenian_ seas, so happily

by good weather, as if we had gone the other way through the streights.

And although we sail’d on very fast, yet the wind was uncertain, for one

arose after another, so that we had three several winds that night and

day, _viz._ first, _Maistral_ after midnight, which lasted until morning;

then the _Betsch_, that blew from south-west very violently, in _Latin_

call’d _Africus_, which lasted till night; then follow’d the _Ponente_,

which bloweth from the west towards night, which commonly ariseth upon

the coast of _Africa_, as the old seamen observe, and we found it so

ourselves, on the day of the Holy Cross, not without trouble or danger;

for as the seamen kept that day, and according to their old custom

discharged three great guns, the _Betsch_ arose immediately with very

great violence, so that the waves swell’d very high, and the ship was

toss’d about from one side to the other, and did rock us so, that if we

had not held ourselves, we could not have kept our places, as did happen

to some of our company that did not observe this, and were strangely

tumbled about in the ship, and forc’d to creep on all fours to their

places again. This wind began to remit towards night, when the _Maistral_

began to blow. With this _Maistral_ we went on, and came so far, that on

monday the 15th of _September_ early, we did make the island _Candy_,

and soon after another, now call’d _Cerigo_, anciently _Cythera_, near

to the _Morea_. That day we had very good weather, and it was so calm

that we could reach no further than to the point of _Candy_. Thus going

on, another wind arose, blowing from south-east, call’d _Sirocco_, and

in _Latin_, _Vulturnus_, which was contrary too, and hinder’d us very

much, so that we were forced to sail upon one side, to weather the point

from one side to the other; when we came to the side of _Creet_, and

our patron would neither land in _Candy_ nor in a little island call’d

_Legosia_, we turn’d on wednesday towards _Africa_. Some while after, a

very great tempest arose, with thunder and lightning, so that we had work

enough with our sails, and to rule the ship that it might take no hurt;

and we sailing thus against the wind, that it might not cast us back,

this made us more work than the rest, for the waves went against us so

vehemently, that when we were mounted to the top of a wave, we seem’d to

look down thence into a deep and dark valley; then down we went again

with such a fury, that we thought we should descend to the bottom, which

continued almost till the next morning. And although the tempest had

thrown us a good way back, yet in a little time we got so far forward

again, that we could descry _Candy_, and the little island _Legosia_.

Just then we spy’d two ships, one a bark, ten miles off to the left, and

the other a great ship going to _Africa_.

After we were thus gone along by _Creet_, we came on friday just

over-against the city of _Candy_; it came to be so calm and so warm,

that we could hardly perceive we were come above three or four miles.

We going thus slowly, some of our company jump’d out into the sea to

wash themselves; but the mate of our ship run a fish through with a long

spear for that purpose, call’d _Lischa_, and so pull’d it out; this was

delicately colour’d, and very pleasant to look upon; his back was blew,

and his belly white and glisning, above a yard long, of a tender flesh,

and very good to eat: This seems to have been a _Tunny_.

Just over-against it is a monastry of St _Francis_, in which is a very

good Apothecary’s shop, and a delicate garden, fill’d with strange and

useful plants.

There is also not far off a good and safe port, call’d _Calisme_, where

we would willingly have taken in water, but because it lay thirty miles

before us, and the wind, _Sirocco_, contrary to us, began to blow again,

and hindred us in this enterprise; we steer’d on saturday towards the

south, that we might reach it the next morning.

About noon, when we turn’d again to the _Porto_, we saw another ship on

the left, and because we did not know how to trust her, we look’d to

our great guns, of which we had thirteen, and got them ready, and also

the rest of our arms, _&c._ But the longer we look’d upon the ship, the

farther we perceived her go from us. When we came within twelve miles of

the port, and hoped to make it, the wind changed, and the _Tramontana_

blew from the north vehemently; so we went on in our right course to the

islands _Calderon_ and _Christiana_, so that on monday we passed the

furthest point of _Creet_, call’d _Caput Salomonis_, where we saw on

the hight another island, situated sixty _Italian_ miles from _Rhodus_,

call’d _Scarpanthos_, and also _Carpathos_, where night befel us. But

when we expected to go forwards with this wind, we lost it, and it

changed into _Græco_ again, contrary to us, and so we could not go on

farther, but were forced to cross up and down and to weather the point.

On Monday we saw a ship that came directly down upon us, wherefore we

went to meet her, and put our flag at the top of our main-mast. But when

we came nearer we knew her to be a _Marsilian_, called _Santa Maria de

Lacura Bursa_, they did send out one of their boats to tell us, that they

came seven weeks agone from _Tripoli_, and that they wanted biscuits very

much, and therefore desired us to let them have some of ours, to which

we willingly agreed, and let them have what they would, and so they were

very well pleased. While this was done, a good wind arose again, serving

us both, called _Tramontana_, so that we could go forwards and they

homewards, and so we parted. Then our master ordered three guns to be

discharged, which they answered with two, so we went on, and lost sight

of one another in half an hour’s time.

Here is to be observed, that of the four cardinal, and four side winds,

five were for us; for we could go on as well with the _Tramontana_ and

the _Midi_, called north and south, as with the three other, called

north-west, west, and south-west, and so we had three contrary ones,

_Syrocco_, _Levantino_, and _Græco_, which were contrary to us in our

going; during this wind we went on with such speed, that on the 24th of

_September_ in the evening we saw the great island _Cyprus_, five hundred

miles beyond _Candy_. But because we had steered too much on the right,

we were forced to spend all that night and the next day before we could

come to _Cyprus_. The same morning we saw the high mountain _Libanus_ in

_Syria_, two hundred miles distant from us, and so at night we got into

the harbour of _Salamine_: Here is made the best bay-salt that is in the

world. Here we also discharged three guns, for joy of our safe arrival,

and some of us landed, together with our master, to take in water, and

to enquire after our friends and acquaintance. No sooner were we landed,

but we met with two travelling _Turks_, with an _Italian_ that understood

their language: They spake to us by their interpreter, and conducted us

to their Colonel, who was encamped near the market-place of _Salamine_

upon a hill, where one might see a great way off into the sea. After an

hour’s walk we came in sight of him, and saw about thirty tents, and

amongst them his also, where we saw some curious tapestry spread, and him

sitting in the midst, with a delicate white turbant, and a long red lined

_Caban_.

He held in his hand a long iron, like a grater we use to grate bread

withal, only it was a great deal smaller: The _Turkish_ persons of

quality have generally such irons in their hand in the summer-time; which

they put in between their back and cloaths to scrach their backs when

they itch: About him sat some more gentlemen bended down, and others

kept centinel without his tent, with guns and scymiters well provided.

Amongst the rest there was one of a good presence covered with a Tyger’s

skin, that held a great iron club in his hand. Upon his desire we went

to him, with the usual reverences, according to their custom, bending

our head and the whole body downwards, and laying the right hand upon

our breasts: Our master also pulled off his shoes, went in, and sate

down with the rest before him: But we two set ourselves down without

upon two seats that were brought us. Then the Lord began to ask our

master, by his interpreter, from whence we came, how long we had been

a coming, what merchandizes we had brought, and whether we designed to

make any sale there; which questions our master answered. Then he began

to enquire after news: _viz._ whereabout the _Spanish Armada_ was at

present, and how strong it was reputed; whether the King of _Spain_

had made any leagues with other princes; and how the King of _France_

did agree with his _Hugonots_; how strong the city of _Rochelle_ was,

and whether the King took it by violence, or whether they submitted

themselves voluntarily. After this conference had lasted for half an

hour, he dismissed us with great civility, giving us leave to go about

our affairs. So we went off with the usual ceremonies, and went the same

evening into the market of _Salamine_, to enquire after our friends; but

we found this market-town, and also all the neighbourhood so strangly

spoiled, that there were but very few whole houses standing. But being

that we found none of ours, nor having any business there, we returned to

our ship. I found nothing by the way but a few _Caper-bushes_ with some

_Paliurus_’s and _Kali_.

After our men had filled water enough out of the well by the harbour

we went aboard the ship again, hoisted up our sail, and departed in

the night. But in going thence for _Tripoli_ we had for the most part

contrary winds, which hindred us so much, that we did not arrive there

until the last day of _September_. Thanks, honour, and glory be to

the Almighty God, that mercifully did protect us from all dangers and

mischiefs, and brought us safely into this harbour.

CHAP. II.

_Of the famous city of ~Tripoli~, of it’s fruitful neighbourhood and

great trade: And also of the splendid baths, and other magnificent

buildings to be seen there. Their ways of making Rusma, Pot-ashes, Soap,

~&c.~_

Before _Tripoli_, near the sea-shore, we saw five castles like high

towers, distant from one an other about a musquet-shot, where some

Janisaries are kept in garrison, to cover the ships in the harbour

(which is in some measure surrounded with rocks) and to defend that

custom-house, and the several ware-houses (where you may see all sorts of

goods brought from most parts of the world) from an hostile attempt or

assault: but after the sun was set, and night began to approach, we made

what haste we could to the town, which was an hour’s going distant from

us. Some _Turks_ went with us no otherways armed but with good strong

cudgels, which, I was told, they commonly carry to keep off the wolves

called Jacals (whereof there are a great many in these countries that are

used to run, seek, and pursue after their prey in the night). While we

were a talking of them some came up pretty near us, but as soon as they

saw us they turned and ran away. When we came to the gate of the town

we found it shut up, wherefore one of our friends, that met us to make

us welcome, called to some _Frenchmen_ that were in their inn, in their

language called _Fondique_, which is near the gate, and reacheth quite to

the wall of the town, and desired that one of them would take the pains

to go to the _Sangiacho_, to desire him to let the gate be opened to let

us in, which they were willing to do. But in the mean time that we staid

before the gate, another that was an enemy to our friend ran also away,

and bespoke some _Turks_ and _Moors_ to set upon us, which they were very

willing to do, and came with all speed through another gate that is never

shut, along the wall to us, fell unawares upon us, struck at us, and took

hold of us, chiefly at our good friend, for whose sake all this was done;

others drew their scymiters upon us, so that I thought we should have

been all cut to pieces. While this was a doing the gate was opened, and

some _Frenchmen_ and their Consul himself came to our assistance, and

spoke to these fellows, earnestly exhorting them to desist, and to let

the cause be decided by the _Sangiacho_ and _Cadi_, which at length they

did. So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the crowd into their

_Fondique_, where we remained all that night. The Consul was very much

displeased at this, considering that such-like proceedings would be very

troublesome to them, wherefore he made great complaints and enquiries,

until at length he found out who was the author thereof.

The next morning we went to our friends houses in order to stay a while

with them: In the mean time we walked sometimes about in our own cloaths

to see the town, which is situated in the country of _Syria_, called

_Phœnicia_, which reached along the sea-shore to _Berinthus_, _Sidon_,

_Tyrus_, and _Acon_, as far as the mountain of _Carmelus_. The town

_Tripoli_ is pretty large, full of people, and of good account, because

of the great deposition of merchandizes that are brought thither daily

both by sea and land: It is situated in a pleasant country, near the

promontory of the high mountain _Libanus_, in a great plain toward the

sea-shore, where you may see abundance of vineyards, and very fine

gardens, enclosed with hedges for the most part, consisting chiefly of

_Rhamnus_, _Paliurus_, _Oxyacantha_, _Phillyrea_, _Lycium_, _Balaustium_,

_Rubus_, and little _Palm-trees_, that are but low, and so sprout and

spread themselves. In these gardens, as we came in, we found all sorts

of sallating and kitchen-herbs, as Endive, Lettice, Ruckoli, Asparagus,

Seleri, whose tops are very good to be eaten with salt and pepper, but

chiefly that sort that cometh from _Cyprus_, _Taragon_ by the inhabitants

called _Tarchon_, Cabbages, Colliflowers, Turneps, Horseradishes,

Carrots, of the greater sort of Fennel, Onions, Garlick, _&c._ And also

fruit, as Water-melons, Melons, Gourds, Citruls, Melongena, Sesamum (by

the Natives called _Samsaim_, the seeds whereof are very much used to

strow upon their bread) and many more; but chiefly the Colocasia, which

is very common there, and are sold all the year long: I have also found

them grow wild about rivulets, but could never see either flowers or

seeds on them. I found also without the gardens many Dates and white

Mulberry-trees, which exceed our Aspen and Nut-trees in height very

much; and also Pomgranat-trees and Siliqua, which the _Grecians_ call

_Xylocerata_, the _Arabs_, _Charnuby_. Also Olive and Almond-trees, and

Sebesten, the fruit whereof are to be had at Apothecaries shops by the

same name: _Poma Adami Matth._ But in great plenty there are Citrons,

Lemons, and Oranges, which are as little eaten there as Pears or Crabs

here. Between these gardens run several roads and pleasant walks, chiefly

in the summer, for they afford many shady places and greens, where you

are defended from the heat and the sun-beams: And if passing through you

should have a mind to some of the fruits, you may either gather some that

are fallen down, or else pull them from the nearest trees without danger,

and take them home with you.

Without at the sea-shore, near the old town of _Tripoli_ (which together

with many more, as _Antiochia_, _Laodicea_, &c. in the year of our Lord

1183, was so destroyed by an earthquake, that nothing but a few marks

remain) there were more spring-gardens, which some of the Merchants still

remember. But these were a few years agone by the violence of the seas so

destroyed and so covered with sand, that now you see nothing there but a

sandy ground, like unto the desarts of _Arabia_. Yet at _Tripoli_ they

have no want of water, for several rivers flow down from the mountains,

and run partly through the town, and partly through the gardens, so that

they want no water neither in the gardens nor in their houses.

The new town in itself is of no strength, for it is so meanly walled in,

that in several places in the night you may get in and out: But within

there is a citadel situated upon an ascent near the water, where a

garrison of a few Janisaries is kept. They have low houses ill built and

flat at the top, as they are generally in the East, for they cover their

houses with a flat roof or a floor, so that you may walk about as far as

the houses go; and the neighbours walk over the tops of their houses to

visit one another, and sometimes in the summer they sleep on the tops of

them: And so it may very well be, that the four men (of which we read in

St _Mark_, chap. ii. and St _Luke_, chap. v.) that carried the paralytic

man, and could not come to _CHRIST_ because of the crowd of people, did

carry him on the tops of the houses, and so let him down through the roof

into the room where our _SAVIOUR_ was. They have not great doors, gates,

or comings-in from the street as we have in our country, except some few

Merchants houses, because they use neither waggons nor carts, wherefore

they have only a little low door, sometimes not above three foot high, so

that you cannot go into them without stooping. In a great many houses the

comings-in are so dark and deep that one would think he were going into a

cave or cellar, but when you are come through this entry into them, you

see, in some, great court-yards wherein are cisterns to wash themselves

in, in others large halls paved, and therein some ascents that go up two

or three steps, paved delicately with marble, which they keep very clean,

and adorned with rich tapestry, whereupon they sit, and this is covered

with a large arch left open at one side, that the _Turks_ may, chiefly in

the summer, sit underneath them very airy.

Their doors and houses are generally shut with wooden bolts, which are

hollow within, and they unlock them with wooden keys about a span long,

and about the thickness of a thumb, into this key they have driven, five,

six, seven, eight or nine short nails, or strong Wires in such an order

and distance that they just fit others that are within the lock, and so

pull them forwards, or shut them backwards as they please.

The streets are but narrow, paved with broad stones, and have, chiefly

those that are great roads, a channel in the middle of them about ten

inches broad, so that a laden Camel may walk in them with ease, or that a

man may step over them, which they say are made that the laden Camels or

Asses, _&c._, that daily arrive in great caravans, may be obliged to walk

in them one after another, in good order, that people may walk in the

streets without being disturbed by them. And that these channels may be

kept clean and dry, they have in some places some hidden drains covered

with broad stones, that as well the rain-water as that of the wells may

run away through them.

They cannot brag of any fine buildings, save only the _Mosques_ or

temples, into which no _Christian_ must come, except he hath a mind

to be circumcized, and so turn a _Mammeluk_ or _Renegado_: And also

some great houses by the natives called _Champ_ or _Carvatscharas_,

(_Caravanseries_) wherein are a great many shops or ware-houses, and

chambers, by one another, as is in stately cloisters, in the middle

thereof there is a great court-yard, where the strange Merchants (that

daily bring their merchandizes in great caravans) do inn, considering

that the _Turks_ keep no other inns.

The inns commonly belong to the _Grand Seignior_, or his _Basha_, which

they build in several towns to get themselves a yearly revenue, as the

_Venetians_ do in _Venice_ out of the _German_ house.

Besides these buildings they have also hot-houses or _bagnios_, which are

so glorious and sumptuous, that they far exceed all their other buildings

in beauty, wherefore they are very well worth seeing. And because the

_Turks_, _Moors_, and _Arabs_, &c. according to their _Mahometan_ laws,

are bound to bath themselves often, to wash themselves clean from their

manifold sins which they daily commit, but chiefly when they are going to

their _Mosques_, therefore they have their hot-houses always ready, and

keep them warm and in an equal heat, with a very small charge, and with

far less wood than one can imagine, all the week long, both by night

and by day. They have under-ground a large and deep vault, like unto a

large cellar, which is every where very close, and it hath no more but

two air holes, one on the top about three or four inches diameter, and

the other below which is a great deal larger, where they put in wood, or,

for want of it, pieces of peat (which they make out of Camels or Goats

dung, _&c._ and also out of the dregs of the pressed grapes); these are

so dry that the great heat melts them just like sea-coals or turf, which

are burnt in the Low-countries, and other places where they have not

plenty of wood: And these give so great a heat that it warmeth the whole

vault quite through. And yet this vault is so close made that you do not

perceive the least smoke nor vapour, although it is sometimes very hot.

But that the fire may not decay, there is one on purpose to attend it,

that flings on as much fuel as is necessary to keep it. These hot-houses

(which according to the custom of the ancient _Greeks_ and _Romans_ are

magnificently built) have, near to the entry, a delicate hall, which

is curiously paved (as also is the whole bath) and set with marbles of

all colours very artificially, and a great _Cupolo_ at the top thereof,

which is covered with an arch in shape of a ball or globe. Round about

the walls are broad benches made, where the people put off their cloaths;

wherefore this first part of the bath (whereof the ancients had five)

was called _Apodyterium_. In the middle of the baths is a fine fountain,

where they sprinkle every one that goeth out of the bath with sweet

water, and also wash the bathing-cloaths that were made use of in the

bath, which they afterwards fling up upon lines that are hung at the top

of the vault, two or three fathoms high, with an admirable certainty,

and spread them out with a long pole, with one stroke (that they may dry

the sooner) so even, as if it were done with hands, which no body can

see without admiration; when they have a mind to make use of them again,

they take them down with the same sticks that are ready stuck up about

the fountain. These are wrought finely with all sorts of colours, whereof

they give two to every one that goeth into the bath or bagnio, two others

when he cometh out, one to put upon his head, the other to put about him

in the manner of an apron. When you will go in the hot-house you must

go through two or three chambers, whereof one is warmer than the other

(which each of them are covered with round arches) until you come into

the great room, these arches are full of round holes all about, which

are made in such order, and set with glass so curiously, that they do

not only make them very light, but give also a fine ornament to them. In

the great bath are several great marble vessels which they let the water

into; round about the great room, there are three or four small chambers,

which they keep chiefly for persons of quality, where they may wash

themselves apart from others without any disturbance. Besides these there

is still another room where there is a very great marble trough, in which

every one may wash himself after his sweat; there are several pipes laid

in it, that you may temper your water according to your own desire. All

these rooms are heated with the same fire, and the _Turks_ and _Moors_

(which two nations have almost the same religion and ceremonies) go into

them very frequently; but chiefly the women, which flock to them in great

numbers, for they never meet any where else, but here, and at the graves

of their relations; wherefore they keep these sumptuous buildings (the

like whereto are hardly any where else found) in very good repair. As

soon as you come into the hot-house, and are grown a little warm, one

of the servants (which are generally black _Moors_) meets you, and lays

you backwards down upon the floor, and stretcheth and snaps all your

joints after such a manner that they crack again; then he kneeleth down

upon your arms, which he puts upon your breast one over the other, and

holds them so for a good while together with his knees, then he bendeth

forwards and stretcheth with both his hands (keeping you still like a

prisoner under him) your head upwards. (So it happened once, when some of

us went in together, and were treated by the _Moor_ after this manner,

that he sprained the neck of one of my companions, so that he could not

turn his head in several days after it) when this is done he turns you

round upon your belly, toucheth and stretcheth your joints again in such

a manner, as if he did malax a plaister; at length he stands upon your

shoulder-blades, and bending himself down, he rubs you all over your

back with his hands, then he lifteth you up, and goeth away. Then when

you lay your self down to rest you, or to sweat, he maketh a paste, to

take off your hair (for they wear no hair upon their body, saving only

their arm-pits) he taketh quicklime (by the _Arab_’s called _Rils_) and

a little _Sarnick_, (_Arsnick_) that is, Orpiment, powders them, and

mixeth them with water, and anoints your hair with it, and looks very

often after it, until he finds that the hair begins to come off, then

he washeth it perfectly off again, before it can hurt you; when this is

done, he takes a fine white cloth, dips it in soap-suds, and rubs your

whole body over with it. The before-mentioned cloaths are white like

unto cotton, but the threads are harder, which the pilgrims bring with

them from _Mecca_: Being made of the bark of trees that bear _Bdellium_,

and they make ropes of them, as also of the fibers of the leaves of

_Palm-trees_, and of the covering of the fruit of the same tree, which is

of the bigness of a Wall-nut, by putting it on a distaff, and so spinning

it out.

_Lastly_, They wash peoples heads, and mix sometimes with their lees

(chiefly for women) an ash-coloured earth called _Nalun_, which cleanseth

the head, and makes the hair grow long. They have also another earth

called _Jusabar_, which the women eat frequently, so as breeding women

in our country use to eat sometimes coals or other things. These their

baths, are as free to strangers as _Germans_, _French_, _Italians_, &c.

as to _Moors_ and _Turks_, but they must have a care not to come into

those where the women are, if they will not run the hazard of their

lives. But that you may know where the women are, they commonly hang a

cloth over the door towards the street, that if any man should intend to

go in there, when he seeth this he may find himself another entrance.

Further concerning their traffick, there are in the town (because there

is there a very great deposition of all sorts of merchandizes, that are

brought thither from great distances) a great many merchants, chiefly

_French_ and _Italians_, which have two wise, understanding, and grave

Presidents, of which the one that liveth here is a _Frenchman_, and

the other at _Aleppo_, a _Venetian_, called Consuls, to assist their

countrymen with good counsel. They are sent thither by their government,

and confirmed, and have great privileges given them of the _Turkish_

Emperor, to let the Merchants with their commodities lodge with them, and

to defend them against any assault of the _Turks_ and _Moors_, that they

may trade and deal without disturbance. These Consuls were still their

usual habits, made of red sattin, velvet, or damask, _&c._ very richly

adorned; and they bring along with them Taylors, Shoe-makers, but chiefly

their Physicians, Apothecaries, Barber-Surgeons and Ministers, _&c._

and have besides them their Interpreters, skilful in the _Turkish_ and

_Arabian_ language, chiefly the Consul of _Venice_, because he must stay

there but three years, when they are expired the _Dogue_ sends another

in his place. When the new one is arrived at _Tripoli_ he dare not go on

shore, before the other gives him a visit of reception in the ship.

To these two Consuls there are given two large buildings, called by them

_Fondiques_, situated near two gates of the city, which lead towards the

haven and the sea-shore, that they may the easier send their goods in and

out. There are all day long a great many _Moors_ with their Asses, that

stand waiting for an opportunity to conduct Merchants and Seamen with

their goods in and out. These two houses are large, and have abundance of

vaults and chambers, so that there is room enough to lodge both Merchants

and their goods.

With the _French_ are also lodged, those from _Genoa_, _Florence_, _St

Luck_, _Germans_, _Dutchmen_, &c. as also with the _Venetians_ those

of _Candia_, _Corfu_, &c. that are under their master’s jurisdiction.

These _Fondiques_ have no more than one large gate, where Janisaries

keep watch: When their masters, the Consuls go out, they are accompanied

with a multitude of Merchants and their servants, and they are in great

authority with the _Turks_ and _Moors_, even beyond the _Bashaw_ himself:

They always take along with them their Janisaries, which go before with

great and long cudgels, and beat the people out of the way, even the

_Turks_ themselves.

The Merchants have daily great conversation with the _Jews_, for they

know a great many languages, and the prizes of all merchandizes, how to

buy and to sell them; wherefore they always help to conclude bargains

in merchandizes, pay the money and give bills of exchange, wherefore

they have their brokerage. I have seen chiefly three sorts of their

silver coins, _viz._ _Aspers_, _Medin_ and _Saiject_, which are very

good, and pass thro’ all _Turky_. When great sums are paid, they do

not tell the whole, but only part of it, and weigh it, and so take the

rest proportionably by the same weight. Of gold coins they have only

ducats which are made of fine gold, and are very limber: Besides these

you hardly see any other coins but _Venetian Ducats_, _French Testons_,

_Joachims Thalers_, of which they have so many, that they often do not

only pay with them great sums and their bills of exchange, but turn them

also into their own coin. So that there is abundance of _Jews_ throughout

all _Turky_ in any trading-town, but chiefly in _Aleppo_, and in this

town of _Tripoli_, where they have built a very large habitation, and

a delicate synagogue. These _Jews_ have the revenues of customs of the

_Grand Signior_ in their hands, so that nothing can be brought in or

out, but it must go thro’ their hands, which is very troublesome to the

Merchants. Those that buy any thing of them, must have a special care,

that they be not cheated, for they are full of it, insomuch as they

confess of themselves, that no body can get any thing by them, except he

will be a greater _Harmani_ (that is cheat) than they, that dare to sell

Wall-nuts for Nutmegs or Myrobolans.

Concerning the merchandizes: If one will see several sorts of goods they

are to be found in the _Carvatscharas_ or _Champen_, whereof I have made

mention before, but chiefly in the _Batzaren_ or houses where they buy

and sell, or exchanges. These exchanges are wide and long, and partly

arched, partly covered with timber, that you may walk and trade there

without being wetted, they have shops on both sides, which are also

kept by handicrafts and tradesmen, as Shoe-makers, Taylors, Sadlers,

Silk-embroiderers, Turners, Copper-smiths, Cutlers, Woollen-drapers,

Grocers, Fruiterers, Cooks, and many more, which are very orderly

distributed and placed in their several streets and places. They also

drive a great trade in silk, and there are a great many that deal in

nothing else but silk, which is convey’d thither from the adjacent

places; for mount _Libanus_ is inhabited by a numberless people, that

live by spinning and working of silk, but chiefly they of _Damascus_,

where is such plenty of silk, that a Merchant may quickly lay out

in it many thousand ducats: Because of the great abundance of white

Mulberry-trees (by the natives called _Tut_) which grow there so high and

large, that they have plenty of leaves to feed their silk-worms: But the

Mulberries thereof are white, and they carry them about in baskets to

sell to ordinary people. So there is in the _Batzars_ many silk-workers,

which make all sorts of embroidery, as purses, buttons, and girdles or

sashes of several colours, which they tie about their loins; these are

at work before their shops, that every one may see them. When they work,

or tie two threads together, they hold their work oftener with their

great toe, than pin it to any thing, and the same do the Turners, (which

sitting to it) hold their turning irons as well with their toes as with

their fingers. Further, at a certain time of the year there is brought

from _Damascus_ and other adjacent places, to these _Batzars_, so great

a quantity of large and well-tasted Cibebs, a kind of Raisins, having

but one or no stone, that several ship loads are sent from thence to us.

These and the like goods are daily brought and found in their _Batzars_,

as rare tapestry and delicately wrought silks with flowers and roses

of several colours, some of which look like pure gold. But of all the

tradesmen there are not so many of one sort as of them that only deal in

Soap and Pot-ashes, for of these ashes (besides Soap) several ship-loads

are yearly sent from thence to _Venice_, which they use for making of

Glase as well as Soap. These ashes are made chiefly of a herb, called by

the _Arabians_, _Schivan_, whereof there are two sorts, which amongst

others I have pasted upon paper, one whereof is not unlike to our little

_Kali_; it is a thick and knotty plant, with several small sprigs growing

out of it, which have several full buttons at the top, and underneath

small pointed leaves, just like the lesser _Kali_, as I said before,

tasting somewhat sharp, the leaves thereof are underneath white, and on

the other side of the colour of ashes. The other sort becometh also many

stalks, which are full of knots like our Equisetum, and underneath them

appears a woody and ash-coloured root.

Both these herbs grow thereabout in great quantities, and are burnt

into ashes upon the high mountains, in burning thereof there settleth

an oily matter underneath towards the bottom, which united with the

ashes is almost as hard as a stone when it is cold: at the top thereof

a part of the ashes remains unmix’d and loose, therefore it is not so

good as the rest. These ashes are brought down from the mountains upon

Camels backs by the _Moors_, to some Merchants that drive a great trade

with them, for partly they send away into foreign parts, and partly

they make soap of them, some more, some less, according to every one’s

capacity and pleasure. The way they make their Soap in _Syria_, I am

informed, is this, _viz._ They take commonly twelve hundred weight (or

twelve centners) of these ashes, which in the summer they divide into

eight, and in the winter into four parts, because the Soap is sooner

boiled up in winter, for the heat being then included by the outward cold

is more vehement than in summer. Of this they take first one part and

make it into a good sharp Lye, which they pour into a very large kettle

or caldron made of stone, with a large bottom made of a copper-plate,

and very thick, wherein they have before put sixteen hundred weight of

Sallet-oil, and let it simper for twenty four hours, pouring daily in

more Lye of another part. But before it is quite boil’d up (which in

winter requireth perhaps five days, and in summer nine or ten) they take

an hundred weight of quick-lime, and mixing it with the ashes, draw a

Lye from it, which they put two days before it is quite enough into the

caldron, more or less, according as they find it thick or thin. But if it

should happen, that there should be too much of the Lye in the kettle,

they have a cock coming out of the copper-plate, whereby they let out as

much of the Lye as is convenient. When it is almost boil’d up, they take

out, with a copper kettle that holds eight or ten pounds, the thicker

part of the soap that swimmeth on the top, and pour it upon the floor,

which is cover’d with lime or chalk beaten to powder; let it lie there

for one day in winter, and two days in summer, and it grows so hard that

they can walk over it; then they make it smooth, cut it into square

pieces, and put their mark upon it.

CHAP. III.

_Of the ~Turks~ of high and low conditions, men and women; of their

employments, offices, manners, customs, cloaths, as much as I could at

~Tripoli~, during my abode, understand, see and learn thereof._

The city of _Tripoli_ is, as well as a great many more of the adjacent

towns and provinces, subject to the _Turkish_ Emperor, wherein he hath

his officers, as in all other places, that they may be ruled according

to his pleasure, and protected from all assaults and dangers. Such

superiors are by them call’d, _Sangiacks_ or _Bashaws_, which we may

render State-holders, which have several hundred horse-men under their

command, more or less according to the revenues of the provinces that

are committed to their care. These are brave and experienced soldiers,

that lead their men out into the fields several times in the week to

exercise them, the horse-men in riding, and the foot in shooting with

bows and arrows, which have their several marks done upon high poles,

to shoot at in their running; that if there should be occasion they

may be ready to take the field presently to fight their enemies. There

_Sangiachi_ have other captains and commanders under them, of which the

_Soubashaws_ or Judges are the chief; these are placed by him round

about in the adjacent places, to officiate for him where he cannot be

present. To such places are commonly call’d the Burghers or Citizens of

the same places, and they continue no longer than half a year. By them

are examined all criminal matters, and they have power to examine and put

to the torture all malefactors, to make them confess their crimes. They

also accompany the malefactors, that are sentenced and condemn’d by the

_Cadi_, to the place of execution, to see the sentence duly executed;

so I have seen them often to ride along, but chiefly at one time with

a poor malefactor condemn’d to die, who was carry’d on a camel’s back,

ty’d with his back to a cross, with his arms extended, to the place of

execution; and between the cross and his shoulders were put two burning

torches, prepared with bacon, so that the grease run all over his body,

and burnt it severely. The _Turks_ have also for several crimes, whereof

there are a great many, their several punishments; as for thieves and

murderers, the gallows; for traytors, impaling; and for them that kill

a man, beheading, _&c._ and so they keep a great many servants, which

they send out every where to bring to them any that are suspected to have

transgressed the laws, by beating or wounding one another, which happens

very seldom, by stealing, or murdering, or adultery.

For any other transgressions besides these, the _Turks_ are brought

before other magistrates, call’d _Cadi_, which are to understand the

laws, and to judge, and to pronounce sentence after they have examin’d

the witnesses: If it be for debt, they are immediately cast into prison

until they pay, or find out any other means to make up the debt. But

if it be for transgressing the laws, they are severely fined or else

punish’d with blows. Wherefore also their _Cadi_ keep several men and

spies, which they daily send out, to find out any that transgressed

the laws in drinking of wine; in not going to prayers frequently; in

not strictly observing their fasts, or in transgressing the laws any

other ways. If they find any, they summon them before their _Cadi_, who

punishes them according to their default, with a pecuniary mulct; or

if they have no money to give, he sentences them to receive a certain

number of blows upon the soals of their feet, and besides pay half a

penny for each blow. Being that a great many of such transgressors are

daily brought before him, whereof the greatest part receive blows, it

causeth so miserable a howling and crying, that we might plainly hear it

in the _French Fondique_, which is just over against it; and although the

_Cadi_ is very much troubled with such transgressors, yet matrimonial

causes take him up a great deal more time, because all that will marry,

must come to him, and make their agreements and contracts, which are

consign’d into his books; partly that they may have them to shew, if

any differences should arise between them, (seeing that the _Turks_ and

_Moors_ have several wives, and are divorced again for a small matter)

and partly that they may give them copies of their contracts upon their

marriages, which they write for ordinary people upon smooth and plain

paper; but for others that are rich, upon a piece of white sattin, about

a yard long. These their contracts they comprehend in a few words, and

draw them up so short, that they scarce contain above eight or ten lines

a piece, at least two inches distant from one another. For this purpose

they keep several clerks, which oftener write upon their knees, than

on desks or tables. These _Sangiacks_, _Soubashaws_ and _Cadi_’s, of

which I have made mention before, and also their wives go very richly

cloathed with fine flower’d silks, artificially made and mix’d of several

colours. But these cloathes are commonly given them by those that have

causes depending before them, (for they do not love to part with their

own money) to promote their cause, and to be favourable to them; for they

are so very covetous that, where there is nothing given them, there they

do but little; for the _Bashaws_ and _Sangiachi_, which under the _Grand

Signior_, rule kingdoms and principalities, know very well that they must

rule but three years in the same place; for as soon as their _Sultan_

commands them, they must go to another place, perhaps far distant from

that place. Wherefore they always strive after honour and riches, that

they may either by gift or favour be by the court promoted to greater

authority and office; or else if that cannot be obtain’d, they may at

least lay up in the mean time such riches, that they may be able to

maintain themselves after the same greatness as they did before.

When I lived there, a new _Sangiack_ was promoted into the place of

the old one, who made his entrance, follow’d by his _Saphi_’s, and was

honourably received by the town. His train consisted most in horse, and

archers with arms and shields very well stored; they also had drums

and kettle-drums, and other musical instruments, _&c._ their sabers or

scymiters were for the most part tipp’d up a great way with some gilded

metal, and very smooth and shining, and so were their stirrups, that at a

distance they made a great glittering.

All these officers love to be look’d upon, as if they perform’d

their office with great integrity, and yet they are so addicted to

covetousness, which is the root of all evil, that, for gifts or bribes,

they let the false depositions of those that out of spite accuse the

innocent to pass for good. Therefore it is a very easy matter for any

one, that would be revenged of his enemy, by way of a small present,

to bring him into great trouble and costs. The _Soubashaws_ are of the

same stamp, for they do not at all stick to punish, for lucre sake, the

innocent, chiefly if they be rich and strangers; their men are very well

skill’d in these affairs, to find one trifle or other against them; and

because their time is also but short, therefore they make all possible

speed to grow rich; and this so much the bolder and opener as they need

not fear their _Sangiack_, nor _Bashaw_, for they wink at it, as being

sharers of the prey, that receive their dividend weekly. In short, let

one have committed never so much evil, if he giveth but money to them

all is well, and he is as good again as ever he was before. Seeing

that many, chiefly in law suits, are wrong’d by them, therefore higher

judges, call’d _Cadileschier_, are set over them, to punish them for

their rogery; these are esteem’d by the _Turks_ to be the principal

teachers of the Mahometan faith and laws; they are generally grave and

understanding men, before whom are brought all intricate causes and

appeals to be decided, and they have power to punish these and other

officers, but chiefly the _Cadi_’s, and to put them in and out, according

to their behaviour, wherefore they often take their circuits from town to

town, to see how the _Cadi_’s execute justice; wherefore they are very

much afraid of their coming, and if they know themselves guilty of any

misdemeanor, they often times run away. If they are complain’d of by the

people, they are presently punish’d with many blows, put out of their

places, and if the crime be great, they are after beheaded, strangled,

burnt, or otherways executed; and this happeneth very often in these

countries. But if one or more that were also wrong’d by the _Cadi_, could

not stay till the arrival of the _Cadileschier_, to make their complaints

to him, they have another way, that is, to make their complaints to the

_Porte_ or the Emperor’s court, or else to go themselves and make their

complaints in person, where they are speedily heard (for such causes, as

I am inform’d, are heard certainly once in fifteen days) and righted. If

any be poor he is maintain’d by the court until his cause is ended.

Such a cause did formerly happen to an interpreter of the _Venetian_

Consul, who being very well to pass, a _Soubashaw_ did strive to make

booty of him; but not being able to prove any thing against him, whereby

he could make him punishable, he found at length a way, and got one

of his servants to hide a common whore in the interpreter’s house,

unknown to him, that he might have sufficient cause to accuse him.

This being done, the servants of the _Cadi_ broke into the house, and

searching it found this whore, and put him into prison. The interpreter,

notwithstanding he pleaded his innocency, and that he was totally

ignorant of the fact, could not satisfy the _Cadi_ by any means, but was

condem’d by him in nine hundred ducats, which he was forc’d to pay. This

troubling the interpreter, he could not brook this unjust imposition,

being an experienc’d man, well skill’d in their laws, wherefore he took

horse immediately, unknown to the _Cadi_, for _Constantinople_, where he

made his complaints to the court himself so well, and with that success,

that he was declared innocent and not guilty of the fact. But as this

court usually doth severely punish those that do commit injustice, so

this _Cadi_ did not escape; for within a little while after the _Turkish_

Emperor sent to him a _Chiausbashaw_, which may be compared to an

executioner, with a little note, the contents whereof were to send him

his head by the bearer, which frighted the gentleman very much; but

yet, after, by a peculiar favour, he had taken his leave of his wife,

submitted himself to it. This is the reason, that many ill intentions and

designs, chiefly if one summon’d the other to appear at the court before

the Emperor, are stopt and drawn back, which else would have taken effect

and been gone on withal.

If a man appeareth before any _Turk_ that is a person of quality, he

must have especial care, that chiefly in departing he do not turn his

back side towards him, for this is accounted the greatest incivility and

affront that can be given throughout all the _Turkish_ dominions. Nay if

a servant appears before his master to ask him forgiveness of his faults,

he useth peculiar ceremonies; first he submitteth himself, and sheweth

his master all respect imaginable, then he taketh, with his knees bended,

his master’s hands to kiss them: If his master lets him have them freely,

he is in good hopes that his master will grant him his request, but if

not, but draweth them back, although he maketh several profers towards

them, he knoweth certainly that he is still out of favour, and that there

is but small hopes of obtaining his intention.

They love that one should bear a great deal of honour and respect towards

them, for they know that their masters the _Sultan_’s power hath for a

long time past, not been decreasing but always increasing; wherefore

they take very much upon themselves, and are always richly cloathed,

and ride delicate horses, well adorn’d with stately accoutrements, with

embroider’d saddles, and saddle-cloths of scarlet, velvet, or other

silks, the bridles and stirrups well garnish’d with silver and gold.

They commonly speak in the _Turkish_ language (and so do all that lie

about in garrisons) which is a very manly one, and sounds in proper

pronouncing much like unto our _German_ tongue; but they also generally

are expert in the _Arabian_ tongue, which is the common one there to the

whole country, and goeth through many provinces; for you meet there with

many _Arabians_, _Syrians_, _Jacobites_, _&c._ Christians and Heathens,

to whom this speech is common.

The _Turks_ have also some very fine manners and customs; they

are affable, they begin their discourse, chiefly to relations and

acquaintance, with a friendly salutation and kissing; but they are also

lazy, and do not esteem the liberal arts and sciences, love idleness

better than labour, for you shall see them spend a whole day in the

game of chesse and other games, and in playing on their (_quinterns_)

guittars, which have three, five, seven, and sometimes eleven strings, as

I have seen them with the musicians of the _Bashaw_ of _Aleppo_ several

times. They commonly play only with their fore-finger, or a piece of a

quill, they walk about with them in the streets, chiefly the soldiers,

all day long, and so use themselves to laziness and leachery, and

contaminate themselves with all sorts of terrible and chiefly sodomitical

sins, which by them, because both high and low are equally guilty

thereof, are not at all punish’d.

They love to wear good cloaths of light colour, but do not care they

should cost them much; their upper garments, which hang down very long

before, set with buttons, under which they wear other coats instead of

doublets, which (commonly those of the soldiers) are made of blew cloth,

somewhat shorter before than behind, with white sleeves, and without

collars about their neck, and so are their shirts, which generally are

wrought of cotten, and cut about their neck as wide as their cloaths.

Instead of bands they wear neck-cloths, which they wrap about their

nacked necks, to defend them from the violent heat of the sun. They

also, chiefly in the summer, wear white and wide cotton drawers, which

reach to their ancles, and are much narrower below; to them they have no

cod-pieces, which they do not suffer others to wear, that they may wash,

without hindrance, their private parts, feet, arms, necks or any other

parts, to cleanse themselves as often as their laws shall direct them.

These drawers they tie about their middle with some strings or bands

about their naked body, and let their shirts hang down over them. When

they have occasion to make water, they untie their drawers again, sit

down and cast their cloths round about them like women, turn themselves

from the south, to which they turn when they are going to pray. If they

see a man make his water standing, they immediately conclude him to be

a Christian, and none of their faith. They commonly sit with their legs

laid one over the other, which they do every where in the east, wherefore

they have neither chair nor table, but instead thereof, they have a paved

place, two or three steps high, which is arch’d over head, which they

keep very clean, and cover it with tapestry, or serge, or matts finely

twisted with several colours, according to their ability; wherefore to

save them, the _Turks_ pull off their shoes and leave them at the chamber

door. Their shoes are like unto those our lackies use to wear, and like

slippers easy to be put on and off, they commonly are of a white or blew

colour, painted before, underneath defended with nails before, and with

horseshoes behind; these are worn by young and old, men and women, rich

and poor. Besides these they also wear sometimes wooden shoes, which are

to be sold every where; they are about three inches high, and in the

middle underneath carved out, to distinguish the soals from the heels,

painted with several colours; the same wear the women, which have almost

the same garments with the men, and have also drawers, which sometimes

are so long that they hang out before their coats; they are commonly

made of fine cotton of several colours, and laced at the sides. You very

seldom see any _Turkish_ women either in the streets or in the markets

to buy provision, or in their churches, where only the chiefest of them

come, and that but seldom, where they have a peculiar place separated

from the men. They have also in their houses secret places and corners,

where they hide themselves immediately, if any body should come to see

their housholds. When they go abroad, which is very seldom, you see three

or four of them together with their children, which are all one man’s;

for according to their law they are allow’d to take as many as they can

maintain. Their faces are all cover’d with black vails, whereof some are

of fine silk, and some of horse-hair, which the poorer sort wear; and

over their head they put some white scarfs made of cotton, which are so

broad that they not only cover their heads but their arms and shoulders,

they look in them almost like our maids, when, to keep themselves from

the wet, they put a table-cloth or sheet over their heads. But because

the _Turks_ are very jealous, therefore their wives seldom meet in the

streets or markets, but only in the hot-houses, or when they go to visit

the tombs of their deceased parents or relations, which generally are out

of town near the highways. When they go thither, they take along with

them bread, cheese, eggs, and the like to eat there, which was call’d

_Parentalia_ by the _Latins_, just as the Heathens used to do in former

ages; and sometimes they leave some of their cheer behind them, that

the beasts and birds may eat it after they are gone; for they believe,

that such good bestow’d upon the beasts is as acceptable to God as if it

were bestow’d on men. Their graves are commonly hollow cover’d at the

top with great stones, which are like unto children’s bed-steads in our

country, which are high at the head and feet, but hollow’d in the middle;

they fill them up with earth, wherein they commonly plant fine herbs,

but chiefly flags; they also put some green myrtles in little air-holes

that are round the tombs; and they are of opinion, that their relations

are the happier, the longer these remain green and retain their colour:

And for the sake of this superstition there are in several places of the

town myrtles to be sold that stand in water, that they may remain fresh,

which the women buy to stick up at the graves of their relations. Their

burying-places are always out of town near the highways, that any body

that goeth by may be put in mind of them, and pray to God for them, which

is the reason that so many chapels are built about their burying-places,

that people that go by, chiefly the relations of the deceased, may go

into them to pray to God in their behalf. When any of them dieth, they

wash him, and put on his best cloaths; then they lay him on a bar or

board, and strow him with sweet smelling herbs and flowers, leaving only

his face bare, that every body may look upon him that knoweth him, as

he is carry’d out. If it be a _Tschelebii_, that is, a noble person,

they put his helmet and his other ornaments at his head; his friends

and acquaintance, which go before and follow the corps, keep no order,

but hang upon one another, as if they were fudled, and go merrily and

shouting along to the grave; as also do the women, who come behind and

hollow so loud that you may hear them a great way off.

CHAP. IV.

_A description of the plants I gather’d at ~Tripoli~._

Considering that I undertook this journey into the eastern countries,

not only to see these people, and to observe their manners, _&c._ but

also, and that principally, diligently to enquire and to search out the

plants that were growing there; I cannot but shortly describe those I

found about _Tripoli_, during my stay there, and will begin with such

as grew on the sea-shores, which were _Medica marina_, _Gnaphalium

marinum_, _Leucoium marinum_, _Juncus maritimus_, _Peplis_, _Scammonium

Monspeliense_, which the natives call _Meudheuds_; but _Rhasis_, in

his book _ad Almans._ call’d it _Coriziala_, _Brassica marina_, which

spreads it’s roots above the sand for some cubits round, and has instead

of round leaves rather square ones. A kind of wild white lillies by the

_Latins_ and _Greeks_ call’d _Hemerocallis_, which did not only grow on

the sea-shore, but also in islands thereabouts in great plenty, with a

great many others, which I forbear to mention here, being common. Behind

the custom-house, near the harbour, I found in the ruins of the old walls

that are left of that city, _Hyoscyamus_, and hard by it in the sand an

herb not unlike unto _Cantabrica secunda Caroli Clusii_, saving only the

stalks and leaves which are woolly. But the _Ricinus_ groweth there above

all in so great plenty, that you can hardly make your way through it; the

inhabitants call it still by it’s old _Arabian_ name _Kerva_.

If you turn from thence to the high-way towards your right hand, you

see the _Tythimalus Paralius_, and also a kind of _Conyza Diosc._ out

of one root there spring up several stalks, whereof some grow upright,

but the greater part of them lie down upon the ground, and so shoot new

roots, which afterwards sprout out into new stalks; it beareth long

olive-leaves, which are thick, fattish, and somewhat woolly, and have

a strong and equally sweet smell; for the rest, as the flowers, it is

very like unto the great one. You find there also the greater and lesser

_Medica_, which the _Moors_ to this day call _Fasa_. Likewise so great

and many _Squills_ that the inhabitants weed them up, chiefly those that

grow near their gardens, and fling them up in high heaps like stones.

There also groweth _Securidaca minor_, _Tribulus terrestris_, by the

inhabitants call’d _Haseck_, and a kind of _Echium_, which groweth by the

way as you go to St _James_’s church, which from thence is situated upon

an ascent at a mile’s distance. Hereabouts, and in other adjacent places,

groweth a great quantity of sugar-canes, so that there is yearly sold

a great many sugar-loaves that are made thereof. These are as high and

big as our canes, and not much differing from them, but within and down

towards the root, where they are best, they are full of this pleasant

juice, wherefore the _Turks_ and _Moors_ buy a great many of them, being

very pleasant to them to chew and eat, for they are mightily pleased with

sweet-meats, whereof they have variety. Before they begin to eat or chew

them, they stript off the long leaves and cut away what is tasteless, so

that only the juicy and good remaineth, which is hardly two foot. Of the

thus prepared canes they carry many along with them through the streets,

and cut off one piece after another, skale them, and so chew and eat them

openly every where in the street without shame; for they are, principally

near the root, very tender, and feel as mellow between your teeth as if

it were sugar itself. So the _Turks_ use themselves to gluttony, and are

no more so free and courageous, to go against their enemies to fight,

as they have been in former ages. The sugar canes do not grow there

from seeds, neither are they propagated by the root, but by the canes

themselves, whereof they lay into the ground some green pieces of two or

three joints long, and that they may grow the sooner, they bore pretty

large holes in between the joints; when they begin to grow, they sprout

out in the joints, and grow up into great canes, and so bring in good

profit.

There also by the rivers are found _Anthilis Marina_, _Visnaga_, the

first _Apocymum_, and _Oleander_ with purple flowers, by the inhabitants

call’d _Defle_, and a delicate kind of _Scabiosa Melissa Maluca_, and if

you go to the gardens, you see _Heliotropium majus_, _Convolvulus folio

acuto_, _Vitis nigra_, _Phaseolus Turcicus_, with yellow flowers, which

still retain the ancient name of _Lubie_, _Lysimachia lutea_, and wild

vines call’d _Labruscæ_, whereon nothing groweth but only the flowers,

call’d _Ocnanthe_; and also a shrub like unto the _Polygonus_ of _Carol

Clusius_, which climbs up into high trees, and hang down again from the

twigs; and I verily believe they are the same with _Ephedra_, whereof

_Pliny_ maketh mention in the seventh chapter of his twenty sixth book.

When I went farther, with an intention to consider the plants that grew

in the country, first came before me some _Sycomores_, whereof chiefly

_Dioscorides_ and _Theophrastus_ make mention, and tell us of two sorts;

and when I call’d these things to mind, I light of one of the second sort

of _Sycomores_, whereof abundance grow in _Cyprus_, wherefore these wild

figg-trees might be call’d, the one the _Cyprish Sycomore_-tree, and

the other the _Egyptian Sycomore_-tree, according to the places where

they are most frequent and fruitful. I found a great many of them: the

_Moors_ and _Arabians_ call them _Mumeitz_, they are as great and as high

as the white Mulberry-trees, and have almost the same leaves, but they

are only somewhat rounder, and are also whole at or about the sides;

they bear fruit not unlike to our figg-trees, only they are sweeter, and

have no little seeds within, and are not so good; wherefore they are

not esteem’d, and are commonly sold only to the poorer sort of people;

they grow in all fields and grounds, as you may see by the words of the

second book of the _Chronicles_ ix. 27. _And the king made silver in

~Jerusalem~ as stones, and Cedar-trees made he as the Sycomore-trees

that are in the low plains in abundance_. _Zacheus_ did climb upon such

a one when he had a great mind to see our Saviour. _Essaias_ also maketh

mention of them in his ninth chap. vers. 10, and _Amos_ in his seventh

chap. vers. 14, where he saith of himself: _I was a herds-man, and a

gatherer of Sycomore-fruit_. These two sorts are very like one another,

in stem, leaves, and fruit, only as the fruit of the one comes more out

of the great stems and great twigs, so that of the other does the same,

but not out of the stems and twigs immediately, but out of twigs or

sprouts without leaves of the length of five or six inches, whereon they

grow sometimes very thick, and in a bunch together. These trees bear

fruit three or four times yearly, which are small, of an ash-colour,

oblong, round, like Prunes, and are found upon the trees almost all the

year long. Hereabouts also grow many thorns, whereof is made mention in

Scripture, by the inhabitants call’d _Hauseit_, and by the _Arabians

Hausegi_, but the _Latins_ call them _Ahamnus_; and also white Poplars,

still to this day call’d _Haur_ by the _Arabians_. There also groweth a

great and high tree which beareth delicate leaves and flowers, pleasant

to look upon, by the inhabitants call’d _Zensetacht_, but by _Rhasis_ and

_Avicenna_, _Astirgar_, & _Astergir_, and _Azadaracht_, whereof you see

here and there several planted in the streets, to make a pleasant shade

in the summer, the fruit thereof remaineth upon them all the year long,

until they put out again a-new, for they are hurtful, and kill the dogs

if they eat thereof.

Near the town upon the highlands, (where you see abundance of

corn-fields, and abundance of pleasant Olive-trees, that reach quite

up to mount _Libanus_) are found _Polium montanum_, _Pecten veneris_,

_ferrum equinum_, _Chamæleon niger_, with it’s sharp pointed and black

roots and leaves, very like unto the leaves of _Carlina_, whereof the

stalks are of a reddish colour, a span long, and of the thickness of a

finger; whereon are small prickly heads, of a blewish colour, not unlike

to those of the little _Eryngium_. Another fine plant grows thereabouts,

call’d _Sathar_ in their language, but when I consider it’s beautiful

purple-colour’d flowers, and it’s small leaves which are something long

withal, I rather judge it to be the _Hasce_ of the _Arabians_, or the

true _Thyme_ of _Diosc._ which we call _Serpillum Romanum_. It hath as

pleasant an acrimony as any spice can have, wherefore the inhabitants use

it very much, whole or in powder, at home and abroad, with and without

their meat, chiefly for to correct an ill digestion of their stomach.

This herb is never found in our Apothecaries shops, they take another

in it’s room, which hath lesser and greener heads, and is rather the

first _Satureia_ of _Diosc._ brought from _Candia_. There are also two

sorts of _Clinopodium_, whereof the lesser and tenderer (considering

it’s long stalks, leaves and flowers, which grow in good order, and at

equal distances one over the other) may very well be taken for the true

one of the _Diosc._ There are also _Ilex minor_, _Sabina baccifera_,

_Terebinthus_, and many more.

In the town are found several strange plants; one called _Musa_, whereof

the stalks are from nine to twelve foot high, which are smooth, and

without they are inclosed in their leaves, and often quite surrounded

like our reeds, of a fine shining green; at the top thereof the leaves

spread themselves out, and look like a great bush of feathers, for they

are very long, and so broad, that the biggest person may lie upon them

with his whole body very well. These leaves have a rib in the middle,

which keepeth them up streight, and so strongly, that although the

wind breaketh them at the sides in several places, yet notwithstanding

they remain upright. These trees bear their fruit no more than once,

wherefore they are cut down, and so the root shoots out several other

stalks about a foot distant from the old one, which grow up again, and

bring forth fruit, which groweth on a thick stalk in great numbers;

they are almost shaped like the _Citruls_, round and bended, only they

are less, smooth without, invironed with a thick rind, which is first

yellow, but when they are kept a few days it grows black, it is easily

separated when they are new; within they are whitish, full of seeds,

sweet and good to eat; but they fill mightily, and are apt to gripe:

Wherefore, (as _Theophrastus_ mentioneth in the fifth chapter of his

fourth book) _Alexander_ the Great forbid his army to eat them, when he

went into the _Indies_. There groweth but very little of this fruit about

_Tripoli_, but it is brought from the neighbouring places plentifully.

We also find there another tree, not unlike unto our _Privett_, by the

_Arabians_ called _Alcana_, or _Henne_, and by the _Grecians_, in their

vulgar tongue _Schenna_, which they have from _Egypt_, where, but above

all in _Cayro_, they grow in abundance. The _Turks_ and _Moors_ nurse

these up with great care and diligence, because of their sweet-smelling

flowers, and put them into earthen pots, or wooden cases or boxes, to

keep them in the winter in vaults from the frost, which they cannot

endure. And because they hardly begin to sprout before _August_, they

water them with Soap-suds, but others lay lime about the root, to make

it put forth the earlier, that it may flower the sooner, because of the

pleasantness of the smell of the flowers, which is somewhat like musk:

They are of a pale yellow colour, and stand in spikes of the length of a

span, but not very close, so that leaves appear between them; their twigs

are also of the same colour, whereof many are sent to us, to cleanse

the teeth with, as it were with a brush, when they are bruised a little

at the ends. They also, as I am informed, keep their leaves all winter,

which leaves they powder and mix with the juice of Citrons, and stain

therewith, against great holydays, the hair and nails of their children

of a red colour, which colour perhaps may be seen with us on the mains

and tails of _Turkish_ horses. The powder is greenish, and so common with

them, that you see in their _Batzars_ whole bags full thereof standing

before their shops, which come from _Ægypt_ and _Africa_, from whence

whole ship-loads are sent through _Turky_, as I have seen myself in this

harbour several, from whence the _Turkish_ Emperor hath yearly a great

revenue. The _Arabians_ burn their _Spodium_ out of the root thereof, as

_Avicenna_ remarks in his seventeenth chap. This being thus, it appeareth

that there is no small difference between these two, ours and theirs; I

am of opinion, that theirs (which is mentioned in the first chapter of

_Solomon’s Song_) is liker to that which _Dioscor._ describeth, than our

_Ligustrum_.

Thereabouts is also found within and without the gardens a peculiar sort

of mallows, by them called _Chethince_, which is very large, and high,

and, like other trees, spreads it’s woody twigs and soft boughs, that

are covered with a brownish bark; amongst the rest I saw one as big as a

man’s middle, the leaves thereof are of a dark green, long, and at the

sides towards the point crenated; it’s flowers are rather bigger than

other mallows, of a blew colour; their seeds I did never see. Hard by I

found another outlandish _Doschet_ flower, which was almost decay’d, so

that it had neither leaves, flowers nor seeds: It was about three foot

high, the stem and twigs were hairy, hollow within as other stalks, of a

green colour, inclining somewhat to yellow, which had at top many other

shoots, each of them had behind like unto other tree-stems it’s proper

joint. This is so juicy quite through, that it drops almost with milk,

which is sharper than any spurge. I made great inquiry of them about it,

but could have no certain account thereof; but as it seemed to me, it is

very like unto _Xabra_ and _Camarronus_ of _Rhasis_ by the _Arabians_

called _Tanaghut_ and _Sabeam_, and may be taken, according to that

author’s description, for it.

Farther hereabouts, chiefly in the town upon the cisterns and conduits, I

found _Adiantum_, by the Apothecaries called _Capillus Veneris_, and in

old walls the _Apollinaris_. I also found in the shops in their _Batzars_

two sorts of roots, whereof one was rounder, which may be the _Bulcigeni_

of the _Venetians_, which are called _Thrasi_ at _Verona_, where they

grow (as the learned _Malthiolus_ testifieth) many of these are sent

out of _Egypt_ to _Tripoli_, and sold there, chiefly to eat in _June_,

by the name of _Habel_, _Assis_ and _Altzis_, this being true, and they

being very like both in name and quality to the grains of _Altzelem_ of

the _Arabians_, they must be the same, although _Rhasis_ reckoneth these

amongst the fruits. The other called by them _Hakinrigi_, and _Hakeuribi_

is somewhat longer, not unlike to our _Doronicum_; there is also a great

many of them to be sold; they are hard, of a sweetish taste, with a

piercing bitterness, and in their bigness, and white nerves (which spread

themselves under ground in the gardens round about like unto the wild

_Angelica_ of _Tragus_) so like to the _Haronigi Serapionis_, and to the

_Durungi_ and _Durunegi_ of _Avicenna_, according to their description,

and so uniform, that they must be taken for the same. Then I found also

in their shops abundance of the seeds of _Sumach_, whereof they make a

red powder, to excite the appetite of the stomach. These and more strange

and unknown simples I did find at _Tripolis_. But because it would be too

tedious to describe them all, therefore I have only made mention of those

that authors have describ’d.

CHAP. V.

_Which way I travell’d from ~Tripolis~ farther to the two famous cities

of ~Damant~ and ~Halepo~._

After I had rested for several weeks in _Tripolis_, and had observed that

city, it’s building, and pleasant situation, and moreover the manners,

customs, and habits, as well of the low as high ones, I propounded to

myself to travel to _Aleppo_, which is almost the biggest, and the most

famous trading city of _Syria_, which lies five or six days journey

towards the north-east of _Tripolis_. And when I met with some companions

to travel with me, we stored ourselves with provisions, _viz._ bread,

cheese, eggs, _&c._ for our journey, and so set out of _Tripolis_ the

ninth of _Novemb._ _Anno 1573_.

By the way we met with a great deal of rain, which commonly begins at

that time of the year, and continueth almost all the winter long; this

kept us so much back, that we reached not to _Damant_, which is in the

mid-way from _Tripolis_ to _Aleppo_, before the fourth day. There we

lodged in one of their great Champs, call’d _Carvatscharas_, where we

had a chamber assign’d us, in which we found neither table nor chairs,

nor bench, nor bed, only upon the floor was laid a _Stromatzo_, twisted

of canes, which was to serve us instead of them all. There we bought in

their _Batzar_ some victuals according to our pleasure, and staid there

all night long. The town, which some take to be the old _Apamia_, is

pretty big, and pretty well built; it lies in a valley between hills, so

that you can see nothing of it, the castle only excepted, which lieth

on the hill, and guardeth it very well, before you are just come to it.

Round about it there are many orchards and kitchen-gardens, which they

water out of the river _Hasce_, which is pretty large, and runs thro’

the town. The water they lift up with wheels, fix’d in the river for

that purpose, that pour it into channels that carry it into the gardens,

and so water them in the great heat of the sun, to refresh them. These

gardens had been worth my seeing, but my fellow-travellers were in haste,

and so we put on the next morning for _Aleppo_.

By the way we saw very good corn-fields, vineyards, and fields planted

with cotton, which is brought from thence, and sold to us under the name

of the place where it grew, and also silks and other goods that are

bought there at the first hand. In these countries are a great many wild

asses, call’d _Onagri_, the skins of them are very strong to wear, and

as they prepare them, finely frock’d on the outside as strawberries are,

or like the skin of the _Sepia_, or cuttle-fish, wherefore they commonly

make their scabbards for their scymiters, and sheaths of their knives

thereof. Their blades are water’d on both sides very subtilly; they are

made of good metal, well harden’d, and so sharp, chiefly those that

are made in _Damascus_, that you may cut with them a very strong nail

in pieces, without any hurt to the blade. They wear rather knives than

daggers, which they tie to their girdles with finely wrought tapes, by

their backs.