F. K.

For the New Perambulator.

There is one thing that dolly absolutely _must_ have before you take

her out to see her friends, and that is a new pram-cover. You had

almost forgotten that, hadn’t you? Just think how you would feel

to have her dressed in her best for visiting, and sitting in that

beautiful perambulator that Uncle gave you, and no nice cover to match!

Wouldn’t you feel dreadful?

Here is a pram-cover that you can make. This has been worked on pale

pink sateen, with shaded green for the leaves and stems, and dark

crimson for the rosebuds. Use a shaded green No. 8 “Star Sylko,”

crimson, No. 8, and plain green thread, No. 5, the same shade as the

darkest part of the shaded thread, for the lines around. Perhaps these

colours won’t go quite nicely with dolly’s pram and outdoor clothes. In

that case you must decide on some other shades.

This pram-cover measures 10 inches long by 7½ inches wide, then another

2 inches has been added to the length, and 2 inches to the width for

the hem. You may find you need your cover larger or smaller than this

one, but whatever size you have, don’t forget to allow extra for a nice

hem. Tack the hem down all round, but do not hem it: the stitches on

the outside line keep it in place.

[Illustration]

Having tacked your hem, you have now to get the design transferred to

your pram-cover. Just look at the outline design. This is just the size

you will want. Now take a piece of tracing paper, and go carefully over

the outline of the leaf wreath. Don’t trouble about the bud at present.

Next turn the paper over and run over the back of the design with a

fairly soft lead pencil—the outlines will show through the transparent

paper. Turn it over again and lay it on your cover, taking care to

get it nicely in the centre. Keep it firm and follow every line with

a slightly harder pencil, marking it firmly and evenly. When you take

your paper up you will find the leaves transferred to your pram-cover.

The buds are transferred to each corner in the same way, putting them

whichever way up you want them.

[Illustration: AN OUTLINE DESIGN. ACTUAL SIZE.]

All you have to do now is to work over the design in the outline stitch

described on page 58. Work the leaves and stems in the shaded green,

the rosebuds in crimson, and the border lines in plain dark green. You

can then take out the tacking threads.

[Illustration]

Dolly will be highly pleased to have such a nice cover to her

perambulator. She does like to be stylish, doesn’t she?

[Illustration: This pretty Bedspread is made of cream canvas

embroidered in white and blue.]

A Bedspread for Victoria.

I wonder whether you have made the bedspread, shown on page 61, with

the doll’s bed outfit. I daresay you have, and perhaps the patchwork

quilt too. But of course you will not want all your doll-children’s

beds to look quite the same, so how about a bedspread with a fringe to

it for Victoria’s bed? You usually dress her in blue, don’t you, to

match her eyes, so you had better work the bedspread in blue. No, I

know she does not go to sleep with her eyes open, but she has lovely

fair hair, and pink roses in her cheeks; and a cream bedspread, worked

in blue, is what she needs to set her off properly.

The bedspread is worked in coarse cream Hardanger Canvas. The little

detail of the stitch shows you the actual size of the canvas. If you

use a finer canvas than this—as of course you can if you like—then you

will have to take your stitches over more threads to get your design

the same size as the one shown here.

The shade of blue that will suit Victoria beautifully is No. 709 in

Ardern’s “Star Sylko,” size 5, and you could use this for the work on

your bedspread; and you will also want some white “Star Sylko,” size 5,

for the satin stitch. For sewing the fringe cream linen thread can be

used.

If you have not yet learnt to work the stitches used in making this

bedspread, the best plan would be to take an odd piece of canvas and

practise on that first.

[Illustration]

Satin Stitch.

We will start with the white outlines of the border. This is worked in

satin stitch—a very simple stitch, but it needs to be worked evenly,

and the thread must not be pulled too tightly. Do not make a knot to

start the work, leave a piece of thread at the back, and put the needle

through this piece before you work the second stitch. Start by putting

the needle up through a hole of the canvas, miss 1 hole, put the

needle into the next hole; put the needle through the next hole on a

line with the first, and go on working stitches like this in a straight

line.

If you do this in the right way, the stitches on the right side will be

straight, and on the wrong side they will slant a little.

[Illustration: This little square shows the stitches clearly.]

The corners of this piece of work are done in an easy way, look

carefully at the illustration, and I think you will see what to do. The

2 stitches on each side and the centre stitch are all worked into the

same hole on the inside of the corner.

Outlines of Border.

Now if you can do satin stitch, the bedspread can be started.

Leave 12 holes around outside the satin stitch line. Work 50 stitches

across both ends, 84 stitches on each side—not counting the 3 extra

stitches at corners. Leave 14 holes on the side and work a line of

stitches across to the other side, on both ends of work. Leave 14

holes, counting towards the centre from side, and work a second line on

each side between the ones worked at each end.

To divide this into squares, leave 14 holes, and work rows of satin

stitch between the 2 lines.

Centre of Squares.

Thread your needle with blue, and put it up through the corner hole,

miss 2 holes, counting towards the centre, put the needle in the next

hole, put the needle up through the third hole in a straight line from

end of first stitch, then into same hole as the end of first stitch;

work another straight stitch on the other side.

Work 3 more stitches like the first 3. Do 3 more corners in the same

way, and join these corners with 4 stitches, these stitches make the

square in the centre.

The fringe looks difficult, but it is easier than it looks.

Count 3 lines of thread from the satin stitch, this will leave 2 holes,

draw out the next two lines of thread from across the canvas; this

leaves a narrow piece of the canvas with threads one way only.

On page 30 you will see how to do the Serpentine Hem-stitching. This is

the stitch that is used for the edge of this bedspread, only that here

you have no hem. You just do the work on both sides of the threads.

Then pull away the threads at the edge, outside the second row of

stitches, and you will get your fringe.

The Two Dollies.

I always dress the Princess Clare

In white with pale blue bows;

She is a most well-mannered doll,

And careful where she goes.

She never soils her muslin dress,

Or makes her slippers in a mess.

But Lady Maude is always getting

Some ugly-looking tear;

Or else her hat has had a wetting

And isn’t fit to wear!

And though I give her lovely sashes,

She gets them spoilt with muddy splashes!

A doll who acts so carelessly

Will have to wear a sack!

With just a piece of string to tie

A sash behind her back!

You cannot let her wear pink silk

When she upsets her bread and milk!

But Princess Clare goes out to tea,

And often has a treat;

You know wherever she may be

She will be clean and neat.

A child like this is quite a treasure,

To take her out is such a pleasure!

The Little Girl's Sewing Book · 第 6 / 19 题