“Telle que dans son char la Bérycynthienne

Couronnée de tours, et heureuse d’avoir

Enfanté tant de dieux....”

This was the might and the permanence from which we sprang.

To establish the character of the Empire and its creative mission is the

less easy from the prejudice that has so long existed against the action

of religion, and especially of that religion which the Empire embraced

as its cataclysm approached. The acceptation of the creed is associated

in every mind with the eclipse of knowledge and with a contempt for the

delights which every mind now seeks. It is often thought the cause,

always the companion, of decay, and so far has this sentiment proceeded

that in reading books upon Augustine or upon Athanasius one might forget

by what a sea and under what a sunlight the vast revolution was

effected.

It is true that when every European element had mixed to form one

pattern, things local and well done disappeared. The vague overwhelming

and perhaps insoluble problems which concern not a city but the whole

world, the discovery of human doom and of the nature and destiny of the

soul, these occupied such minds as would in an earlier time have bent

themselves to simpler and more feasible tasks than the search after

finality. It is true that plastic art, and to a less extent letters,

failed: for these fringes of life whose perfection depends upon detail

demand for their occasional flowering small and happy States full of

fixed dogmas and of certain usages. But though it lost the visible

powers antiquity had known, the Empire at its end, when it turned to the

contemplation of eternity, broadened much more than our moderns—who are

enemies of its religious theory—will admit. The business which Rome

undertook in her decline was so noble and upon so great a scale that

when it had succeeded, then, in spite of other invasions, the continuity

of Europe was saved. We absorbed the few barbarians of the fifth

century, we had even the vitality to hold out in the terror and darkness

of the ninth, and in the twelfth we re-arose. It was the character of

the Western Empire during the first four centuries, and notably its

character towards their close, which prevented the sleep of the Dark

Ages from being a death. These first four centuries cast the mould which

still constrains us; they formed our final creed, they fixed the routes

of commerce and the sites of cities, and perpetually in the smallest

trifles of topography you come across them still: the boundary of

Normandy, as we know it to-day, was fixed by Diocletian. If there can be

said of Europe what cannot be said of any other part of the world, that

its civilisation never grew sterile and never disappeared, then we owe

the power of saying such a thing to that long evening of the

Mediterranean.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: The Arabic Influence]

If this pre-eminence of Rome in the process of her conversion is the

lesson of all travel it is especially the lesson of Africa; and nowhere

is that lesson taught more clear than in Guelma. Here also you may

perceive how it was that the particular cause which ruined the spirit of

the Roman town also saved its stones, and you may feel, like an

atmosphere, the lightness, the permeation, as it were, without

pressure:—the perpetual fluid influence which overflowed the province

upon the arrival of the Arabs. So that the bone of Rome remain, caught

in a drift of ideas which, like fine desert sand, could preserve them

for ever.

For the Arab did in Calama what he did throughout Barbary: he cast a

spell. He did not destroy with savagery, he rather neglected all that he

could afford to neglect. Here also he cut down timber, but he did not

replant. Here also he let the water-pipes of the Romans run dry. Here

also the Arab, who apparently achieved nothing material, imposed a

command more powerful than the compulsion of any government or the fear

of any conqueror: he sowed broadcast his religion and his language; his

harvest grew at once; first it hid and at last it stifled the religion

and the language he had found. The speech, and the faith which renders

that speech sacred, transformed the soul of Barbary: they oppose between

them a barrier to the reconquest more formidable by far than were the

steppes and the nomads to the first advance of Rome. Of this impalpable

veil which is spread between the native population and the new settlers

the traveller is more readily aware in the little cities of the hills

than in the larger towns of the coast. The external change of the last

generation is apparent: the houses about him are European houses; the

roads might be roads in France or Northern Italy. The general aspect of

Guelma confirms that impression of modernity, nor is there much save the

low loop-holed walls which surround the town, to remind one of Africa;

but from the midst of its roofs rises the evidence of that religion

which still holds and will continue to hold all its people. The only

building upon which the efforts of an indolent creed have fastened is

the mosque, and the minaret stands alone, conspicuous and central over

all the European attempt, and mocks us.

Far off, where the walls and the barracks are confused into a general

band of white, and no outline is salient enough to distinguish the

modern from the ancient work of the place, this wholly Mohammedan shaft

of stone marks the place for Mohammedan. It is an enduring challenge.

[Illustration]

There is a triumph of influence which all of us have known and against

which many of us have struggled. It is certainly not a force which one

can resist, still less is it effected by (though it often accompanies)

the success of armies. It is the pressure and at last the conquest of

ideas when they have this three-fold power: first, that they are novel

and attack those parts of the mind still sensitive; secondly, that they

are expounded with conviction (conviction necessary to the conveyance of

doctrine); and, thirdly, that they form a system and are final. Such was

the triumph of the Arab.

Our jaded day, which must for ever be taking some drug or tickling

itself with unaccustomed emotion, has pretended to discover in Islam, as

it has pretended to discover in twenty other alien things, the plan of

happiness; and a stupid northern admiration for whatever has excited the

wonder or the curiosity of the traveller has made Mohammedism, as it has

made Buddhism and God knows what other inferiorities or aberrations of

human philosophy, the talk of drawing-rooms and the satisfaction of

lethargic men. It is not in this spirit that a worthy tribute can be

paid to the enormous invasion of the seventh century.

[Sidenote: The Arabic Invasion]

That invasion as a whole has failed. Christendom, for ever criticised,

(for it is in its own nature to criticise itself,) has emerged; but if

one would comprehend how sharp was the issue, one should read again all

that was written between Charlemagne and the death of St. Louis. In the

Song of Roland, in the “Gesta Francorum,” in Joinville, this new attack

of Asia is present—formidable, and greater than ourselves; something

which we hardly dared to conquer, which we thought we could not conquer,

which the greatest of us thought he had failed in conquering. Islam was

far more learned than we were, it was better equipped in arms and

nevertheless more civic and more tolerant. When the last efforts of the

crusades dragged back to Europe an evil memory of defeat, there was

perhaps no doubt in those who despaired, still less in those who

secretly delighted that such fantasies were ended—there was no doubt, I

say, in their minds that the full re-establishment of our civilisation

was impossible, and that the two rivals were destined to stand for ever

one against the other: the invader checked and the invaded prudent; for,

throughout the struggle we had always looked upon our rivals at least as

equals and usually as superiors.

[Sidenote: Its Continued Influence]

It is in the most subtle expressions that the quarrel between the two

philosophies appears. Continually Islam presses upon us without our

knowing it. It made the Albigenses, it is raising here and there

throughout European literature at this moment notes of determinism, just

as that other influence from the Further East is raising notes of

cruelty or of despair.

[Sidenote: The Gothic]

There is one point in which the contact between these master-enemies and

ourselves is best apparent. They gave us the Gothic, and yet under our

hands the Gothic became the most essentially European of all European

things. Consider these two tiers of one Arabian building founded in

Africa, while yet the vigour of that civilisation was strong. True, the

work is not in stone but in plaster, for to work stone they needed an

older civilisation than their own. But see how it is the origin of, or

rather identical with, our ogive. By what is it that we recognise these

intersecting segments (which are of the perfect 60° like our own) to be

something foreign? And how is it that we know that no Christian could

have built these things? Venice has windows like these: by just so much

she is not of the West, and by just that innoculation perhaps she

perished. The ecstasy of height, the self-development of form into

further form, the grotesque, the sublime and the enthusiastic—all these

things the Arab arch lacks as utterly as did the Arab spirit; yet the

form is theirs and we obtained it from them. In this similarity and in

these differences are contained and presented visibly the whole story of

our contact with them and of our antagonism.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

In the presence of the doom or message which the Arabians communicated

to our race in Africa, one is compelled to something of the awe with

which one would regard a tomb from which great miracles proceeded, or a

dead hero who, though dead, might not be disturbed. The thing we have to

combat, or which we refrain and dread from combating, is not tangible,

and is the more difficult to remove. It has sunk into the Atlas and into

the desert, it has filled the mind of every man from the Soudan which it

controls up northwards to Atlas and throughout this land.

[Sidenote: The Touaregs]

Roaming in the Sahara are bands of men famous for their courage and

their isolation. They are called the Touaregs. They are of the same race

and the same language as those original Berbers who yet maintain

themselves apart in the heights of Aurès or of the Djurdjura. They are

the enemies of all outside their tribes, especially of the Arab

merchants, upon whose caravans they live by pillage. Yet even these

Islam has thoroughly possessed and would seem to have conquered for

ever. Their language has escaped; their tiny literature (for they have

letters of their own, and their alphabet is indigenous) has survived

every external influence, but even there the God of the Mohammedans has

appeared.

One taken captive some years since wrote back from Europe to his tribe

in his own stiff characters a very charming letter in which he ended by

recommending himself to the young women of his home, for he himself was

a fighter, courteous, and in his thirtieth year. But when he had written

“Salute the Little Queens from me,” he was careful to add an invocation

to Allah. And if in their long forays it is necessary to bury hastily

some companion who has fallen in the retreat, his shallow grave in the

sand is carefully designed according to the custom of religion. They

leave him upon his right side in an attitude which they hold as sacred,

his face turned to the east and towards Mecca. In this posture he awaits

the Great Day.

[Sidenote: The Lack of an Opposing Faith]

Against this vast permanent and rooted influence we have nothing to

offer. Our designs of material benefit or of positive enlightenment are

to the presence of this common creed as is some human machine to the

sea. We can pass through it, but we cannot occupy it. It spreads out

before our advance, it closes up behind. Nor will our work be

accomplished until we have recovered, perhaps through disasters suffered

in our European homes, the full tradition of our philosophy and a faith

which shall permeate all our actions as completely as does this faith of

theirs.

That no religion brought by us stands active against their own is an

apparent weakness in the reconquest, but that consequence of the long

indifference through which Europe has passed is not the only impediment

it has produced. The dissolution of the principal bond between

Europeans—the bond of their traditional ritual and confession—has also

prevented the occupation of Africa from being, as it should have been, a

united and therefore an orderly campaign of the West to recover its own.

[Sidenote: Cause of Isolated French Action]

Had not our religion suffered the violent schisms which are now so

slowly healing, and had not our general life resolved itself for a time

into a blind race between the various provinces of Europe, the

reconquest of Barbary would have fallen naturally to the nations which

regard each its own section of the opposing coast; as in the reconquest

of Spain the Asturias advanced upon Leon, the Galicians upon Portugal,

and Old Castille upon the southern province to which it extended its own

name. Then Italy would have concerned itself with Tunis—with Ifrigya,

that is—and with the rare fringe of the Tripolitan and its shallow

harbours. The French would have occupied Numidia. The Spaniards would

have swept on to re-Christianise the last province of the west from Oran

to the Atlantic, and so have completed the task which they let drop

after the march upon Granada. Such should have been the natural end of

mediæval progress, and that reconstruction of the Empire (which was the

nebulous but constant goal towards which the Middle Ages moved) would

have been accomplished. But the most sudden and the most inexplicable of

our revolutions came in and broke the scheme. The Middle Ages died

without a warning. A curious passion for metaphysics seized upon certain

districts of the north, which in their exaltation attempted to live

alone: the south, in resisting the disruption of Europe, exhausted its

energies; and meanwhile the temptation to exploit the Americas and the

Indies drained the Mediterranean of adventurers and of navies. Islam in

its lethargy acquired new vigour from its latest converts, and the

Turks, with none but the Venetians to oppose them, tore away from us the

whole of the Levant and rode up the Danube to insult the centre of the

continent. The European system flew apart, and its various units moved

along separate paths with various careers of hesitation or of fever. It

was not until the Revolution and the reconstitution of sane government

among us that the common scheme of the west could reappear.

On this account—on account of the vast disturbance which accompanied the

Reformation and the Renaissance—Europe halted for three centuries. When

at last a force landed upon the southern shore of the Mediterranean, it

was a force which happened to be despatched by the French.

[Sidenote: The French]

The vices and the energy of this people are well known. They are

perpetually critical of their own authorities, and perpetually lamenting

the decline of their honour. There is no difficulty they will not

surmount. They have crossed all deserts and have perfected every art.

Their victories in the field would seem legendary were they not

attested; their audacity, whether in civil war or in foreign adventure,

has permanently astonished their neighbours to the south, the east and

the north. They are the most general in framing a policy and the most

actual in pursuing it. Their incredible achievements have always the

appearance of accidents. They are tenacious of the memory of defeats

rather than of victories. They change more rapidly and with less

reverence than any other men the external expression of their tireless

effort, yet, more than any other men, they preserve—in spite of

themselves—an original and unchanging spirit. Their boundaries are

continually the same. They are acute and vivid in matters of reason,

careless in those of judgment. A coward and a statesman are equally rare

among them, yet their achievements are the result of prudence and their

history is marked by a succession of silent and calculating politicians.

Alone of European peoples the Gauls have, by a sort of habit, indulged

in huge raids which seemed but an expense of military passion to no

purpose. They alone could have poured out in that tide of the third

century before our era to swamp Lombardy, to wreck Delphi, and to

colonise Asia. They alone could have conceived the crusades: they alone

the revolutionary wars. It is remarkable that in all such eruptions they

alone fought eastward, marching from camp into the early light; they

alone were content to return with little spoil and with no addition of

provinces, to write some epic of their wars.

It is evident that such a people would produce in Africa, not a European

and a general, but a Gallic and a particular effect. They boast

themselves in everything the continuators of the Romans. They do,

indeed, inherit the Roman passion for equality, and they, like the

Romans, have tenaciously fought their way to equality by an effort

spread over many hundred years. They are Roman in their careful

building, in their strict roads, in their small stature, in their heavy

chests, in their clarity of language, in their adoration of office and

of symbol, in their lightning marches: the heavy lading of their troops,

their special pedantry, their disgust at vagueness, their ambition and

their honour are Roman. But they are not Roman in permanent stability of

detail. The Romans spread an odour of religion round the smallest

functions of the State: of the French you can say no more than that any

French thing you see to-day may be gone to-morrow, and that only France

remains. They are not Roman in the determination never to retreat, nor

are they Roman in the worship of silence. The French can express the

majesty of the Empire in art: they cannot act it in their daily life—for

this inheritance of Rome the Spaniards are better suited. As for the

Roman conception of a fatal expansion the Russians exceed them, and for

the Roman ease and aptitude the Italians.

Had, then, the reconquest of Barbary fallen naturally to the three

sisters—to Spain, to Italy, and to France, the long attempt of Europe

might have reached its end. The Spaniard would have crushed and

dominated in Morocco where the Mohammedan was most strongly entrenched;

the Italian, with his subtle admixture, would have kneaded Tunis and the

eastern march into a firm barrier; the French would have developed their

active commerce upon the many small towns of the Central Tell, would

have pierced, as they are fitted to pierce, the high Central Plateaux

with admirable roads, and would have garrisoned, as their taste for a

risk well fits them to garrison, the outposts of the Central Atlas

against the desert. Then the task would be over, and Europe would be

resettled within its original boundaries.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: The March]

On their long route marches, on the marches of their manœuvres and their

wars, the French, along their roads which are direct and august, (and at

evening, when one is weary, sombre,) seek a place of reunion and of

repose: upon this the corps converges, and there at last a man may lie a

long night under shelter and content to sleep: a town lies before the

pioneers and is their goal. It stands, tiny with spires, above the

horizon of their hedgeless plains, and as they go they sing of the halt,

or, for long spaces, are silent, bent trudging under the pack: for they

abhor parade. Very often they do not reach their goal. They then lie out

in bivouac under the sky and light very many fires, five to a company or

more, and sleep out unsatisfied. Such a strain and such an attempt: such

a march, such a disappointment, and such a goal are the symbols of their

history; for they are perpetually seeking, under arms, a Europe that

shall endure. In this search they must continue here in Africa, as they

continue in their own country, that march of theirs which sees the city

ever before it and yet cannot come near to salute the guard at the gates

and to enter in. It is their business to re-create the Empire in this

province of Africa. It may be that here also they will come to no

completion; but if they fail, Europe will fail with them, and it will be

a sign that our tradition has ended.

[Sidenote: The French Genius]

They have done the Latin thing. First they have designed, then

organised, then built, then ploughed, and their wealth has come last.

The mind is present to excess in the stamp they have laid upon Africa.

Their utter regularity and the sense of will envelop the whole province;

and their genius, inflexible and yet alert, alert and yet monotonous, is

to be seen everywhere in similar roads, similar bridges of careful and

even ornamented stone, similar barracks and loop-holed walls.

[Sidenote: The Straight Railway]

There is a perspective upon the High Plateaux which though it is

exceptional is typical of their spirit. It is on the salt plain just

before the gate of the desert is reached and the fall on to the desert

begun. Here the flat and unfruitful level glares white and red: it is of

little use to men or none. Some few adventurers, like their peers in the

Rockies, have attempted to enclose a patch or two of ground, but the

whole landscape is parched and dead. Through this, right on like a

gesture of command, like the dart of a spear, goes the rail, urging

towards the Sahara, as though the Sahara were not a boundary but a goal.

The odd, single hills, as high as the Wrekin or higher, upon which not

even the goats can live, look down upon the straight line thus traced:

these hills and the track beneath them afford a stupendous contrast.

Nowhere is the determination of man more defiant against the sullen

refusal of the earth.

[Illustration]

[Sidenote: The French Afforestation]

There is another effort of the French which may be watched with more

anxiety and more comprehension by northern men than their admirable

roads or their railways or their wires above the sand, and that is their

afforestation.

It is a debate which will not be decided (for the material of full

decision is lacking) whether, since the Romans crowded their millions

into this Africa, the rainfall has or has not changed. It is certain

that they husbanded water upon every side and built great barricades to

hold the streams; yet it is certain, also, that their cities stood where

no such great groups of men could live to-day. There are those who

believe that under Atlas, towards the desert, a shallow sea spread

westward from the Mediterranean and from Syrtis: there are others who

believe that the dry water-courses of the Sahara were recently alive

with streams, and that the tombs and inscriptions of the waste places,

now half buried in the sand, prove a great lake upon whose shores a

whole province could cultivate and live. Both hypotheses are doubtful

for this reason—that no good legend preserves the record. Changes far

less momentous have left whole cycles of ballads and stories behind

them. The Sahara has been the Sahara since men have sung or spoken of

it. Moreover, the Romans did certainly push out, as the French have

done, towards certain limits, beyond which no effort was worth the while

of armies. They felt a boundary to the south. They could bear the summer

of Biskra, but not that of Touggourt: their posts upon the edge of the

desert were ultimate posts as are the European garrisons to-day.

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