from E.; sometimes clear away at sunset; sometimes last all night.
Invariable cloud-bank of purple nimbus in W.
26, 27 On both these days tourbillons, or devils, of light dust,
filling houses.
28-31 Too sick to observe.
REMARKS.—Early summer. The earth is dried up with want of moisture;
and in Unyanyembe the dews, except during the rains, are light.
The weather is monotonous. The morn cold, raw, and bright. The sun
begins to tell at about 9 a.m., and at 10 a.m. rises a high wind
from the N. and E., cooled by evaporation, and pouring from the
hill-lines that flank the plains. It is considered very unwholesome.
Fleecy clouds appear at noon, increase in volume and depth, and
disappear about sunset, which is bright and clear, except when a
thick cloud-bank occupies in straight line the western horizon.
Nights often cool, and sometimes still and ‘muggy.’
The Kaus, or S.W. monsoon, is supposed to blow from April to the end
of November, when it is succeeded for 4 months by the Kazkazi, or
N.E. monsoon. Such are the seasons at Zanzibar. In Unyamwezi,
however, the E. wind seems to last all the year.
OBSERVATIONS MADE AT UNYANYEMBE, MASUI, AND NGEMO, LAT. S., 5° 5′
12″, ALT. 3436 FT. ABOVE S. L., DURING THE MONTH OF SEPT., 1858.
‘Cox’ hung in a passage, and after the 8th in an open verandah
pointing E., and exposed to reflection of sun.
‘Newman’ hung in empty tent from ridge-pole, one fold defended from
air; average of 8 days, observed at 6 a.m., 65°; at 9 a.m., 85°; at
12, 108°; at 3 p.m., 107°; at 6 p.m., 80°; extreme, 50°; from 63° to
113° (highest at noon).
--------------
DAY
1 Kazeh.
2 Thermometer at 9 a.m., 76°; at 12, 85°; at 3 p.m., 85°; at 6 p.m.,
83°.
3 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 73°; at 9 a.m., 76°; at 12, 85°; at 3 p.m.,
88°; at 6 p.m., 83°.
4 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 73°; at 9 a.m., 76°; at 12, 83°; at 3 p.m.,
87°; at 6 p.m., 83°. Wind cold. Several persons taken ill.
5 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 73°; at 9 a.m., 75°; at 12, 83°; at 3 p.m.,
87°; at 6 p.m., 85°.
6 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 71°; at 9 a.m., 75°; at 12, 84°; at 3 p.m.,
85°; at 6 p.m., 84°. Dark, warm, and cloudy. Cold blasts at times.
Rain in distance.
7 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 75°; at 9 a.m., 76°; at 12, 83°; at 3 p.m.,
85°; at 6 p.m., 84°.
8 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 74°; at 9 a.m., 75°; at 12, 83°; at 3 p.m.,
85°. Purple clouds from E., with thunder and lightning. A few
drops on first shower, augurs an early monsoon.
9 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 75°; at 12, 86°; at 6 p.m., 83°. Clouds,
but no rain. Night clear.
10 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 72°; at 12, 88°; at 6 p.m., 83°.
11 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 69°; at 12, 88°; at 6 p.m., 84°. Nights
generally clouded before 12.
12 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 68°; at 12, 90°; at 6 p.m., 84°. Rain.
13 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 72°; at 12, 90°; at 6 p.m., 85°.
14 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 75°; at 12, 90°; at 6 p.m., 79°.
15 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 72°; at 12, 92°. Cloudy night; could not
observe.
16 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 74°; at 12, 89°; at 6 p.m., 85°.
17 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 72°; at 12, 90°; at 6 p.m., 85°. Hot
cloudy day. Cold blasts. Rain somewhere.
18 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 75°; at 12, 90°; at 6 p.m., 79°. Cloudy,
muggy night.
19 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 72°; at 12, 92°; at 6 p.m., 85°. Purple
clouds. Thunder, and a few drops of rain at 10 p.m.
20 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 74°; at 12, 92°; at 6 p.m., 86°. At 9
p.m., thunder, and a few drops of rain. Clouds from W., wind from
E.
21 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 73°; at 12, 89°; at 6 p.m., 85°. Clear hot
day and night.
22 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 73°; at 12, 90°; at 6 p.m., 85°. Normal
day. Remarks. Very bright moon.
23 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 74°; at 12, 92°; at 6 p.m., 88°. Wind
always E.
24 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 75°; at 12, 90°; at 6 p.m., 86°. Sun
fiery.
25 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 70°; at 12, 88°; at 6 p.m., 84°.
26 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 71°. (Last at Unyanyembe.) Marched this
day.—26 to 28 at Masui.
27 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 70°; at 12, 82°; at 6 p.m., 71°. Therm.
hung in hut to pole alt. Violent cold wind all evening.
28 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 70°; at 12, 80°; at 6 p.m., 82°. 5 ft.
fronting S. No refracted heat. At Ngemo.
29 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 72°; at 12, 80°; at 6 p.m., 82°. In hut,
on wall, fronting S.E. alt.
30 Thermometer at 6 a.m., 72°; at 12, 80°; at 6 p.m., 83°. 5 ft., no
refraction.—29, 30, at Ngemo.
REMARKS.—Midsummer. Despite the drought, beasts and birds begin to
couple, and trees to put forth leaves.
The E. wind becomes milder, the weather better, especially at night,
and the whirlwinds diminish. The change of seasons, which brought so
much sickness, passed away in the latter third of July. In Sept.,
Unyamwezi is tolerably healthy.
The normal day, at this season, is a cold high E. wind, rising
shortly after the sun has heated the ground. It pours from the far
Usagara Mountains. The sky is clear and sparkling, with a few high
cirri, and on the horizon white cumuli. Shortly after noon clouds
obscure the sun and confine the wind, which, however, sometimes blow
throughout the evening and the night. The nights are cool about 11
p.m., till which hour the air is still, warm, and genial. It much
resembles the end of an Italian summer day. The winds, however, with
their prodigious loads of dust, if a little less puffy, and more
continuous, would rival the gales of Sind.
OBSERVATIONS MADE AT MGUNDA, MKHALI, AND UGOGO, DURING THE MONTH OF
NOVEMBER, 1858.
--------------
DAY
5 Tura. Temperature of air at sunrise, 66; at midday, 91; at
sunset, 94. N. D. At night, lightning in E. A violent wind-storm
at 9 to 10 p.m.
6 Temperature of air at sunrise, 64; at midday, 82; at sunset, 84.
Cloudy morn.
7 Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at midday, 83; at sunset, 78.
Furious E. wind at 10 a.m. Sun fiery.
8 Kirurumo in Desert. Temperature of air at sunrise, 64; at
midday, 82; at sunset, 80. Furious E. wind at 10 a.m.
9 Temperature of air at sunrise, 62; at midday, 100; at sunset,
83. Furious E. wind at 10 a.m.
10 Temperature of air at sunrise, 63; at midday, 100; at sunset,
76. E. wind early, 9 a.m.
11 Temperature of air at sunrise, 59; at midday, 100; at sunset,
78. E. wind at 8 a.m.
12 Temperature of air at sunrise, 58; at midday, 99; at sunset,
79. Warm night. Tourbillon at 9 p.m.
13 Temperature of air at sunrise, 66; at midday, 90; at sunset,
86. Hot day. Rain appears gathering.
14 W. Frontier of Ugogo. Temperature of air at sunrise, 64; at
midday, 100; at sunset, 81. Hot and clear.
15 Temperature of air at sunrise, 65; at midday, 89; at sunset,
82. Wind N.E., high and cool. People sowing in readiness for first
rains.
16 Khoko. Temperature of air at sunrise, 66; at midday, 92; at
sunset, 84. Showers from E. at 5 p.m., large heavy drops and
spitting. Night windy.
17 Temperature of air at sunrise, 66; at midday, 90; at sunset,
72. Clouds from noon to 5 p.m. Cool windy night.
18 Temperature of air at sunrise, 63; at midday, 96; at sunset,
80.
19 Usekhe. Temperature of air at sunrise, 64; at midday, 87; at
sunset, 84.
20 Temperature of air at sunrise, 66; at midday, 84; at sunset,
86.
21 Temperature of air at sunrise, 67; at midday, 84; at sunset,
84.
22 Kanyenye. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at midday, 96; at
sunset, 82. Violent tourbillon and dust after sunset.
23 Temperature of air at sunrise, 68; at midday, 97; at sunset,
83. High wind in morn.
24 Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at midday, 94; at sunset,
84. High wind all night.
25 Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at midday, 92; at sunset,
88.
26 Temperature of air at sunrise, 68; at midday, 96; at sunset,
84. Calm day, windy night.
27 Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at midday, 100; at sunset,
83. Calm hot morn and afternoon; cold and windy even.
28 Temperature of air at sunrise, 63; at midday, 100; at sunset,
85. Spitting of rain during the night.
29 Temperature of air at sunrise, 73; at midday, 96; at sunset,
80. Spitting of rain in morn. Cloudy day. Hot afternoon. High
gusts at night.
30 Kifukuro. Temperature of air at sunrise, 68; at midday, 100; at
sunset, 83. Cool cloudy day. Heavy nimbi from E. at night. Rain
predicted.—14 to 30 Ugogo.
REMARKS.—Therm. hung to fore-pole of ridge tent, mercury height of
man’s eye. Tent always facing N.
Morning fine, cool, clear, and still.
Clouds, chiefly cumulus. E. wind sets in between 10 to 11, with
clouds. Noon, fleecy clouds, cirri, and cumuli, sun obscured, cool
air, and high cold E. wind. Sun fiery between clouds, which, when
thick, arrest wind. Evening clear, cool, and pleasant. Wind
sometimes veers to W. Hottest part of day, because wind arrested
between noon and 3 p.m. often a veil of mist-cloud. Night still and
cloudy, with raffales of cold high E. wind. Nimbus and cumulus. Air
often mild and genial. Night, wind sometimes mild, and W. but
rarely. Often a film of mist, and the moon and stars in haloes.
In Ugogo the E. wind is sensibly warmer than Umyanwezi, and presents
less contrast with the surrounding atmosphere. Tourbillons are
frequent and violent. The average heat at 9 a.m. was 97°; at 3 p.m.,
100°.
OBSERVATIONS MADE AT MARENGA MK’HALI, UHEHE, WESTERN USAGARA, AND
UZIRAHA IN KHUTU, DURING THE MONTH OF DECEMBER, 1858.
--------------
DAY
1 Ziwa. Temperature of air at sunrise, 68; at 4 p.m., 100; at
sunset, 80. Cool, cloudy morn. Hot, close, glaring day. Cool
evening.
2 Marenga Mk’hali. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m.,
101; at sunset, 82. Air cooled by distant rain. Fiery bursts of
sun. Heavy clouds at night. Lightning from N. and E.
3 Marenga Mk’hali. Temperature of air at sunrise, 69; at 4 p.m.,
101; at sunset, 80. Cloudy morn till 8. Clouds at noon. Heavy
shower with thunder and lightning from E. at 1 p.m.
4 Marenga Mk’hali. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m.,
101; at sunset, 82. Clouds at 10 a.m. Clear day. Hot sun. Cool
night.
5 Marenga Mk’hali. Temperature of air at sunrise, 68; at 4 p.m.,
97; at sunset, 84. Cloudy morn. Gusty day. Cold night. Draughts of
air from Dungomaro ravine in Ugogi all night from midnight.
6 Ugogi. Temperature of air at sunrise, 66; at 4 p.m., 90; at
sunset, 80. Warm morn and even. Cool wind at 9 p.m. Heavy showers
and gusts at night. Masika, or rainy monsoon, according to some,
begins.
7 Ugogi. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 82. Still,
cool morn. Clouds and wind from E. Storm of rain and thunder at
night.
8 Enter Uhehe and Usagara. Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4
p.m., 90; at sunset, 80. Hot morn. Clouds at 9 a.m. Stormy night.
9 Temperature of air at sunrise, 73; at 4 p.m., 92; at sunset, 82.
Hot morn in hills. Wind E. Rainy, clammy night.
10 Temperature of air at sunrise, 75; at 4 p.m., 90; at sunset,
84. Air close, damp, and stormy.
11 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 94; at sunset,
84. Cool at dawn. Hot, clear day. Wind E. and N.E. Halo round
moon.
12 Temperature of air at sunrise, 73; at 4 p.m., 93; at sunset,
82. Hot, clear morn. Sky cleared by rain. At 2 p.m., clouds. At
midnight, haze and halo. Wind E. and high.
13 Inena. Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 84; at
sunset, 72. Hazy, muggy morn. Clouds, but no wind. At 4 to 6 p.m.,
heavy rain from a gap in southern hills.
14 Temperature of air at sunrise, 67; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset,
74. Nimbus cumulus and heavy sky. Spitting at noon. Still even.
Spitting at 7 p.m., and at 3 a.m., heavy rain.
15 Maroro. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 96; at
sunset, 78. Muggy morn. Hot sun through nimbus and cumulus.
Thunder at midday. Spitting at sunset.
16 Maroro. Temperature of air at sunrise, 67; at 4 p.m., 94; at
sunset, 80. Cloudy morn. Windy day. Cool even. Wind, rain, and
dust at sunset. Hot night. Starry, and very heavy dew.
17 Temperature of air at sunrise, 69; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset,
82. Cool morn. East wind at 8 a.m. No rain. Clouds high. Cirri and
cumuli. Dew very heavy.
18 Kiparepeta. Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m. 83; at
sunset, 78. Dew clouds tabling E. hills. Sky elsewhere clear.
Breeze at 8 a.m., when sun dispersed all clouds, stratus, &c.
19 Kisanga. Temperature of air at sunrise, 68; at 4 p.m., 88; at
sunset, 78. Stratus on E. hills. Cold E. wind. Hot sun at noon.
Fine, clear even. Clouds, and heavy shower at night.
20 Kisanga. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 89; at
sunset, 80. Dew clouds in morn. Clear, hot day. Pleasant E. wind.
Cloudy even.
21 Kisanga. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 90; at
sunset, 80. Dew clouds in morn. Clear, hot day. Fine night.
22 Ruhembe. Temperature of air at sunrise, 71; at 4 p.m., 92; at
sunset, 82. Clouds spitting at 7 to 8 a.m. Clear, hot day. Cool
night.
23 Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m., 93; at sunset,
78. Dewy morn. Day clear, and cloudy after 10 a.m. Dewy even.
Clouds at midnight.
24 Kikobogo. Temperature of air at sunrise, 73; at 4 p.m., 94; at
sunset, 80. Dewy morn. No breeze. Mist from marshes.
25 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 98; at sunset,
82. Dewy morn. No breeze. Thunder and rain at night. Rain heavy
drops.
26 Temperature of air at sunrise, 76; at 4 p.m., 97; at sunset,
88. Dewy morn. Clouds at 10 a.m. Thunder and heavy rain at noon.
Night hot, then after spitting rain, cool.
27 Temperature of air at sunrise, 71; at 4 p.m., 97; at sunset,
82. Cool, misty morn. Hot sun. Dewy, misty night.
28 Kirengwe (Khutu). Temperature of air at sunrise, 76; at 4 p.m.,
84; at sunset, 80. Sun mist-veiled at 10 a.m. Wild weather, and
heavy rain in day. Land stinks.
29 Zungomero. Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m., 84; at
sunset, 80. Cloudy morn. Wind E. Heavy rain. Cloudy even. Heavy
rain like that of India at night.
30 Zungomero. Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 74; at
sunset, 72. Drizzle till noon. All damp, soppy, and steaming.
31 Zungomero. Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m., 74; at
sunset, 86. Cloudy. Nimbi and cumuli. No rain.
REMARKS.—Thermometer suspended in tent, fronting north, as before.
Weather very variable. In Ugogi and Eastern Usagara the Rainy
Monsoon appears to have set in on the 6th Dec., 1858.
Until Maroro, the climate had the aspect of the rainy seasons. After
that meridian, throughout Eastern Usagara the weather held up; but
these masses of hills seem rarely, if ever, to be without rain. The
dews are remarkably heavy, forming a contrast with Unyamwezi and the
inland regions.
At Zungomero, reached about the end of December, the violent showers
which fell like buckets-full, piercing at once the thickest
thatches, were called by the people the ‘Sowing Rains.’ All were
busy in the fields, and labour was protracted till about the first
week in December.
The sea-breeze extends to Zungomero, setting in at 9 to 10 a.m. In
foul weather sea-gulls are blown up from the coast. The vicinity of
the Duthumi hills to the N. E., which are rarely, if ever, seen in a
clear outline, and the mountains of Usagara westward, render this a
region of almost perpetual rain. Its summer lasts about one
fortnight, beginning in early January, at which time no rain falls.
OBSERVATIONS MADE IN KHUTU AND UZARAMO, DURING THE MONTHS OF JANUARY
AND FEBRUARY, 1859.
--------------
DAY
1 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 95; at sunset, 80.
Wet, muggy morn. Wind E. Shower at 5 p.m. Cloudy even.
2 Temperature of air at sunrise, 73; at 4 p.m., 98; at sunset, 80.
Fine morn. Wind E. Cirro-cumulus. Few high clouds. Fine even and
clear night.
3 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 104; at sunset, 80.
Fine morn. Sea-breeze and clouds at 10 a.m. Violent rain from E.
at 9 p.m.
4 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 109; at sunset, 84.
Stratus on earth. Sea-breeze and sun at 10 a.m., and at sunset.
5 Temperature of air at sunrise, 75; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset, 82.
Fine morn. Clouds and breeze at 10 a.m., and at sunset.
6 Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 110; at sunset, 83.
Cloudy, dull, muggy morn. Fierce sun. Heavy rain at night.
7 Temperature of air at sunrise, 73; at 4 p.m., 102; at sunset, 82.
Cloudy, dull, muggy morn. Fierce sun. Fine even.
8 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset, 70.
Clear, fine morn. Fierce sun. Fine even.
9 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset, 80.
Dirty morn. Spitting of rain. Hot sun. Showery even.
10 Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 98; at sunset, 80.
Dull morn. Hot day. Sea-breeze. Fine even.
11 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 101; at sunset, 82.
Muggy morn. Sunny and cloudy day. Fine even.
12 Temperature of air at sunrise, 75; at 4 p.m., 97; at sunset, 80.
Fine, clear morn. Cirri and high clouds. Fine even.
13 Temperature of air at sunrise, 75; at 4 p.m., 99; at sunset, 80.
Day hot and clear. Night cloudy.
14 Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m., 90; at sunset, 80.
Day hot and clear. Night cloudy.
15 Temperature of air at sunrise, 71; at 4 p.m., 88; at sunset, 80.
Day hot and clear. Halo at night.
16 Temperature of air at sunrise, 71; at 4 p.m., 110; at sunset, 86.
Air misty and thick. No clouds.
17 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 107; at sunset, 88.
Air misty and thick. No clouds.
18 Temperature of air at sunrise, 70; at 4 p.m., 104; at sunset, 86.
Air misty, but somewhat clearer.
19 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 108; at sunset, 86.
Heavy clouds. Muggy morn. Fleecy sky at sunset. Halo at night.
20 Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m., 108; at sunset, 84.
Misty, muggy morn. Heavy clouds from N. and N.E. Tourbillon of
wind and dust at 3 p.m. Rain in large drops. Hot even and night.
Lightning from N. and N.E. to S.E.—1 to 20, Zungomero in Khutu at
head of valley.
21 Marching. Temperature of air at sunrise, 71; at 4 p.m., 88; at
sunset, 80. Misty. Sun at 9 a.m. fiery. Steamy day. Fetid air.
Rain near.
22 Marching. Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m., 90; at
sunset, 77. Misty. Sun at 9 a.m. fiery. Storm from S. to N. from 3
p.m. to 8 p.m. Violent rain. Spitting at night. Fetid close air.
23 Marching. Temperature of air at sunrise, 72; at 4 p.m., 90; at
sunset, 80. Grey sky. Sun at 9 a.m. hot. Spitting rain from 10 to
12. Light rain at 3 p.m. No sun.
24 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset, 82.
Grey sky. Water and air in equal parts. Spitting at 9 to 11 a.m.
Sun hot at 12. Blue sky in north. Heavy rain. Slow clouds from N.
at 8 to 10 p.m.
25 Temperature of air at sunrise, 76; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset, 84.
Fine veil of mist. Wind and clouds from E. Four days’ sea-breeze.
Fine night, but very hot.
26 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 106; at sunset, 80.
Clear, hot day. Wind E. Sea-breeze after 12. Hot night.
27 Temperature of air at sunrise, 76; at 4 p.m., 110; at sunset, 86.
Misty morn. Wind E. at 10 a.m. Storm of wind and thunder (no rain)
from E.
28 Temperature of air at sunrise, 75; at 4 p.m., 110; at sunset, 84.
Misty morn. Day hot and cloudy. Thunder at 4 p.m. Lightning at
night.
29 Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 106; at sunset, 86.
Misty morn. Hot sun. Heavy cumulus and E. wind. Sea-breeze. Hot
even. Still, starry night.
30 Temperature of air at sunrise, 76; at 4 p.m., 100; at sunset, 86.
Clear morn. Hot sun. Clouds at 10 a.m. Fiery sun. Clouds at 3 p.m.
Wind E. Fine even.
31 Temperature of air at sunrise, 75; at 4 p.m., 99. Clear morn.
Clouds and wind from E. Fiery sun. Heavy cumulus. High sea-breeze.
Clouds and spitting at 10 p.m.
FEB. 1. Temperature of air at sunrise, 76; at 4 p.m., 100; at
sunset, 80. Clear morn. Clouds at 9 a.m. Rain at 10 a.m. Fine day.
2 Ruisi. Temperature of air at sunrise, 74; at 4 p.m., 104; at
sunset, 82. Clear morn. Clouds at 7 a.m. Showers at 10 to 11 a.m.
Clouds and mist from E. Fine day. Clear night.
3 Konduchi. Temperature of air at sunrise, 77; at 4 p.m., 99; at
sunset, 80. Clear morn. Sea-breeze. Fine clear day. Heat great out
of sun.
REMARKS.—An anomaly was observed at Zungomero. There appeared to be
a double sea-breeze, the earlier set in between 9 and 10 a.m. every
day. The second rose regularly at sunset, and at times there were
gusts from the eastward at night. This phenomenon appears purely
local, and caused by the cold winds of the Duthumi hills, which,
when the sun disappears, find their way to the still heated head of
the Khutu Valley.
Between Zungomero and the Mgeta Ford the sea-breeze is lost in the
lower levels. After the Mgeta it sets in strong and regular. The
rain also diminishes, though in winter tourbillons are common. When
the E. wind blows cold it is a sign that rain is approaching, like
the puffs preceding storms on the Zanzibar seas.
Rain in showers not common on the land above the ancient sea-beach;
when on the shore there is more. This accounts for superior
fertility.
Wind at Konduchi as on the coast generally. Calm morn till 9 or 10
a.m. Sea-breeze till sunset. Calm again till fetid land-breeze sets
in at night, and endures until morn.
APPENDIX III.
OBSERVATIONS during a Voyage of Research on the East Coast of
Africa, from Cape Guardafui south to the Island of Zanzibar, in
the H. C.’s cruisers Ternate, (Captain T. Smee,) and Sylph
schooner (Lieutenant Hardy). With short notes by Richard F.
Burton.
January 2nd (1811), Wednesday. Sailed from Bombay in company with
our consort, the Sylph schooner, Lieut. Hardy, having under convoy
two merchant vessels bound to Mocha.
3rd, Thursday. Spoke Lieut. Hardy, who informed us his chronometer
had unfortunately stopped: at noon the thermometer in the shade
stood at 79°, lat. obsd. 18° 16′ N., long. 71° 36′ E., wind fresh
from N.N.E. with fair weather.
4th, Friday. We had fine weather with a light northeasterly wind.
Our thermometer, which had been fixed in the companion-hatch of the
gun-room, was yesterday in the evening removed to a more exposed
situation, to the Captain’s cabin on deck. At noon to-day observed
it had fallen to 78°, being one degree lower than yesterday: lat.
17° 48′ N., long. 69° 47′ E.
5th, Saturday. During the preceding night a heavy dew had fallen,
but the air to-day felt pleasantly dry and cool. Thermometer 77½°,
lat. 17° 29′ N., long. 68° 46′ E.
6th, Sunday. We were in lat. 16° N., long. 66° 45′ E., thermometer
stationary at 77½°.
7th, Monday. In lat. 16° 13′ N., long. 64° 29′ E. The thermometer at
76°, light winds from the N.E. with cool weather.
8th, Tuesday. The weather still continued delightful with a pleasant
north-easterly breeze. The thermometer at 75°, lat. to-day at noon
15° 44′ N., long. per chronometer 62° 30′ E.; by a lunar observation
taken at 8 P.M. 61° 53′, variation of the compass per azimuth 52
miles west.
9th, Wednesday. In lat. 15° 32′ N., long. by chronometer 60° 44′ E.;
and by a lunar taken at 8 P.M. 60° 55′. No alteration in the state
of the winds or weather, and the thermometer remained at 75°.
10th, Thursday. In lat. 15° 2′ N., long. per chronometer 58° 54′ E.;
at 8 P.M. by lunar 58° 27′ E.; thermometer 76°.
11th, Friday. Lat. 14° 40′, long. per chronometer 47° 11′ E., and by
lunar at 8 P.M. 56° 20′. The thermometer at 77°.
12th, Saturday. We parted with the convoy, and, changing our course
from W. to S.S.W., we steered toward the Island of Socotra. At noon
observed an immense shoal of porpoises about half a mile astern of
us, passing with great velocity in a direction from the north to the
south-east. In the evening a rank smell of fish spawn was strongly
perceptible. Thermometer at noon 77½°, lat. 14° 35′ N., long. by
chronometer 55° 37′ E. The wind from the east, with fine weather,
and a cloudy sky. About sunset the appearance of what seemed to be
land, in the west part of the horizon, produced considerable alarm,
which was soon dissipated, on observing that the clouds which caused
this strange and remarkable deception began to alter their forms.
13th, Sunday. At 5 P.M. steering S.W., we had a view of the Island
of Socotra (Note 1) through the haze, bearing W. by S. ¼ S., distant
10 or 12 leagues. Stood towards it with an intention of nearing the
shore before daylight next morning, in order that we might have an
opportunity of ascertaining the position of the easternmost point of
the island, but the Sylph making the signal that she had struck
soundings, we hove to for the remainder of the night. Thermometer
78°, lat. 13° 13′ N., long. 55° 11′ 15″ E.
14th, Monday. We sounded, but found no ground, with a line of 80
fathoms. Made sail again at daybreak, and steering W. by S. coasted
along the south side of the island about 15 miles from the shore.
Lat. 12° 27′ N., long. by chronometer at noon 54° 57′ E. At 2 P.M.
the eastern extremity of Socotra bore N. by W., and, according to
our observations, is situated in lat. 12° 34′ N.; in longitude, from
the chronometer at noon, 45° 45′ 33″, E.
15th, Tuesday. Continued our course along shore, in from 18 to 27
fathoms, over a bottom of red coral. Socotra towards the south
presents an appearance extremely dreary; its arid rocks seemed
destitute of trees or verdure of any kind, at least, none were
visible to us, though frequently examined through our best glasses
at only a few miles distance. On approaching it from the east, land
showed in the form of a high promontory, termed by navigators the
Dolphin’s nose.[83] As we brought the south cape of the island
abreast of us an extensive rocky precipice of considerable height,
and remarkable for its uniformity in this respect, approaching close
to the water’s edge, concealed the land in the interior and appeared
to occupy the whole centre of the island, the land at each extremity
terminating in irregular mountains, some of which on the east are of
a good height. We ascertained the position of the south cape or
headland to be in lat. 12° 20′ N., long. 53° 37′ E., and that of the
western extremity as far as visible in lat. 12° 24′ N., long. 53°
26′ E. Continuing to steer W. by S., we saw the two small square
isles called by the English The Brothers, bearing about 50 miles
W.S.W. of the south cape of Socotra; the eastern one named by the
Arabs Duraga,[84] or Degree Island, is situated, according to our
observation, in lat. 12° 7′ N., long. 53° 23′ E.; from the east it
has very much the appearance of a castle or citadel. The other,
called Sumhaa, is about 8 or 10 miles west of Duraja, has a
remarkable rocky process on one end bearing a striking resemblance
to a sentry-box or watch-tower. Its position is in lat. 20° 8′ N.,
long. 53° 18′ E. The weather still fine, with a cloudy sky, the
thermometer at 76½; lat. to-day at noon 12° 2′ N., long. per
chronometer 53° 30′ E.
16th, Wednesday. Pursuing our course west and by south, we at noon
passed the Island of Abdulcuria,[85] the disjointed rocks of which
appeared at a distance like so many separate isles. It extends in a
N.W. and N.E. direction, and bears from the south Cape of Socotra W.
by S. 100 miles, and 50 miles W. 1/2 S. of the Brothers; the island
is an appendage of Socotra, to the chief of which it is subject; it
is said to afford plenty of fresh water.[86] Passing this island,
the high land on the eastern extremity of the African Continent
presented itself to our view, and at 9 P.M. we hove to with the
ship’s head to the S.E.—Cape Guardafui, bearing W. by N. 1/2 N.,
distant 9 or 10 leagues. We were still favoured with fine cool
weather, the thermometer at 77°, with light winds varying from N.E.
to E. and S.E., and the sky generally overspread with light-coloured
clouds: with the exception of the night of the 5th, no dew has
fallen since we sailed. Lat. at noon 11° 49′ N.; long. by
chronometer 52° 13′ E., variation by azimuth 5° 31′ W.; the position
of Abdulcuria according to our observations is in North lat. 12°,
and long. 52° 20′ E.
17th, Thursday. At sunrise made sail again, steering in a S.W.
direction along the Continent of Africa in from 35 to 70
fathoms,—white sand and coral; but about 4 P.M. it falling calm, and
finding a current setting us inshore at the rate of half-a-mile an
hour, came to in 38 fathoms to prevent ourselves being imbayed. At
6, a breeze springing up from the eastward, encouraged us to make
another attempt, but presently dying away, we were again obliged to
anchor. While lying here we put out our lines and caught one fine
rock-fish, which are probably very plentiful, as we observed our
consort, the Sylph, haul up several in a short space of time. At 10
P.M. weighed with a light easterly wind, and stood to the S.E. We
had this day cloudy weather, with light variable winds; the
thermometer at 78½°. Lat. 11° 41′ N.; long. per chronometer at noon
51° 14′ S. According to this as Cape Guardafui is in N. lat. 11°
49′, long. 51° 13′ E.
18th, Friday. Working off shore with light baffling winds, in from
45 to 55 fathoms, sand. The weather cloudy, with slight showers of
rain, and a lowering sky. A considerable dew had fallen during the
night, and the air to-day felt damp and unpleasant. The thermometer
at 78½°; found the current setting us in-shore at the rate of one
mile per hour. Lat. 11° 30′ N.; long. by chronometer at noon 51° 31′
15″ E.
19th, Saturday. Dew at night, and during the day southerly winds
continued to prevail with damp cloudy weather, and occasional
showers of rain; the thermometer at 78½°. Tacking off and on shore,
we had in the course of the day another sight of the Island of
Abdulcuria and the Brothers, the former bearing N.W. of us, and the
latter in a north-easterly direction. Lat. obsd. 11° 42′ N.; long.
by lunar at 9 A.M. 51° 56′, and by chronometer at noon 52° 5′, E.,
variation by azimuth 7° W. About 6 P.M. in attempting to tack, the
ship refused to stay, and, in consequence, got foul of the Sylph,
which we at the time had in tow. Fortunately, however, after some
alarm and a little trouble, we soon got clear again, without
material damage being sustained by either vessel.
20th, Sunday. Continued working along the African shore with fresh
southerly winds, the thermometer at 79½°, Cape Guardafui and the
Brothers still in sight. Abdulcuria at sunset bore N. and by E. of
us distant 14 or 15 leagues. Lat. 11° 27′ N.; long. per lunar at 9
A.M., 52° 24′ E., and by chron. at noon 52° 29′ E., variation per
azimuth 6½° W.
21st, Monday. Still working against the southerly winds; no land in
sight. The thermometer at 79½°. Lat. observed at noon 10° 50′ N.;
long. by lunar at 10 A.M. 52° 37′, and by chron. at noon 52° 43′ E.,
variation, 8° 20′ W.
22nd, Tuesday. During the early part of the day fresh southerly
winds, with the thermometer at 79½°. Towards the evening it fell
calm, when we lowered the boat and tried the current; found it
setting to the northward at the rate of half a knot an hour. Lat.
observed 10° 43′ N.; long. by chron. 53° E.
23rd, Wednesday. We had light southerly winds and calm in the
morning, but a northerly breeze springing up in the afternoon
permitted us to lay our course S.W. Still no land to be seen. The
thermometer at 79½°. Lat. observed 10° 28′ N.; long. by chron. 53°
E.
24th, Thursday. Steering W.S.W. with a fresh northerly breeze. The
weather damp and misty, and frequent drizzling rain. Thermometer
78½°. Lat. observed 9° 8′ N.; long. by chron. 51° 55′ 15″ E.
25th, Friday. Proceeding westward, we in course of the forenoon saw
land, which, as we now approached that part of the coast where the
objects of our investigation lay, was looked to with anxious
expectation. It bore N.W. by W. distant from us 5 or 6 leagues, and
by the situation of the ship, knew it to be the land between Cape
Orfui[87] and Cape Basseos:[88] as this coast has been hitherto
considered as desert and inaccessible, we were anxious to examine
it, but the thick haze which hung over the land, and the light winds
and currents which we never failed to experience on nearing the
shore, obliged us to heave off towards the evening to avoid getting
imbayed; the land, as it appeared to us, seemed fully to justify the
descriptions given of it. It seemed of a moderate uniform height,
and barren and sandy, without vestige of habitation, or vegetable
production of any kind. We hove to for a short time in the
afternoon, and discovered by striking soundings in thirty fathoms,
and suddenly deepening again, that we had happened on a sandbank,
many of which probably lay along this coast. While we lay to the
lines were put overboard, and shark and rock-fish of various kinds
being found in great plenty, a good number was soon taken,
sufficient to furnish the whole ship’s company with a fresh meal in
the evening: made sail again, standing out from the land. We had
to-day moderate north-easterly winds with fair weather; the
thermometer at 80°. Lat. observed 8° 20′ N.; long. by chron. at noon
50° 32′ E.; variation 6° 12′ W. Immediately after discovering land,
we perceived a large dow or boat close in shore, which appeared
eager to avoid us.
26th, Saturday. At daylight we could see nothing either of the boat
or land, having lost sight of both during the night. Standing in, we
again saw the coast about 7 in the morning. Its appearance was
similar to what we sailed along the preceding day, only it was more
flat, and considerably lower,[89] but equally barren. Kept our way
along shore at the distance of about 6 or 8 miles, in from 10 to 25
fathoms, sand and shells. A little before sunset we hove to in 25
fathoms, and were again very successful in fishing. At 6 P.M. made
sail, still keeping a respectable distance from the shore. The
weather clear and warm, with steady easterly winds, the thermometer
at 79½°. Lat. 7° 10′ N.; long. per chron. 49° 42′ 30″ E.
27th, Sunday. Continued our way along the coast three or four miles
from the shore, in from 20 to 25 fathoms, sand and gravel, with a
very strong current[90] in our favour. The land opposite us to-day
was low and even, and had somewhat a better appearance than any we
had for some days before seen. Green spots were here and there
observable, and we could distinguish on the shore several natives
and a few cattle, but of what description we were not near enough to
ascertain. Fish still continued to be caught in great abundance.
About 3 P.M. saw higher land[91] ahead, which we took to be Cape
Bassas (Note 2), the position of which, though described to be a
very dangerous place, had never been accurately laid down; we were
therefore anxious to determine it, and to have an opportunity of
doing so properly, kept working to windward that we might not pass
it during the night. Winds still easterly with warm weather. The
thermometer at 79½°. Lat. 5° 37′ N.; long. by lunar at 8 P.M. 49°
20′ E.; variation per amplitude 8° 40′ W.
28th, Monday. Passed the elevated land seen yesterday afternoon, and
at 2 P.M. Cape Bassas was abreast of us, distant a few miles. The
real situation of this cape we had difficulty to determine, for the
land along, low and smooth, had so much sameness in appearance, and
that forming the cape itself so little remarkable from the rest,
that had we not observed the coast to recede considerably on each
side, making opposite to us an evident projection or headland, we
should still have remained in great uncertainty respecting it. At 5
or 6 miles’ distance from the shore struck soundings in 19 fathoms,
hard ground, and we had still a strong current in our favour, but we
observed little or no rippling about the ship. The position of the
cape (Note 3) according to the mean of several good observations is
in N. lat. 4° 44′, and long. 48° 17′ E., variation per azimuth 9° 7′
W. After ascertaining the situation of this cape[92] we stood to
windward during the night. To-day the weather continued fine with a
moderate easterly wind, the thermometer at 78°. Lat. observed at
noon 4° 59′ N.
29th, Tuesday. Stood in again and steered along the coast to the
southward of Cape Bassas at the distance of three miles in from 10
to 20 fathoms sand and shells. The land here was white and sandy,
but in several places there was apparently tolerable pasturage
ground, on which were seen several small groups of huts and some
pretty numerous herds of cattle. By the number of people observed on
these spots this tract seemed better frequented; but its general
appearance was similar with that to the northward of the cape.
During the preceding night a considerable dew had fallen, and the
weather to-day was damp and cloudy, the thermometer at 78½°. As the
supposed site of the river Doara[93] (Note 4) was near at hand, the
examination of which formed one of our principal objects, it became
desirable to avoid passing any part of the coast in the night, but
towards the evening the wind unfortunately began to blow very fresh
with a heavy swell, and being on bad holding ground, we were once
more reluctantly compelled to work to windward. Lat. observed at
noon 4° 14′ N.; long. by lunar at 2 P.M. 47° 42′ E.; variation per
azimuth 9° 15′ W.
30th, Wednesday. Continued steering S.W. about 2½ miles from the
land, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, white sand and coral, the Sylph
keeping her course half way between us and the shore in regular
soundings of 6 and 7 fathoms. This day’s sail presented the same
barren prospect as the coast we had already traced; it was still low
and sandy, remarkably white, and to all appearance completely
desert; neither huts, people, nor cattle of any description to be
observed. The shore was in many places rocky, and a high surf beat
over it. At 2 P.M. breakers appeared ahead, distant less than 2
miles, and a little beyond them, low land, which seemed to be an
island; to weather these it became necessary to haul off shore, and
immediately after taking this precaution, the wind began again to
blow exceeding fresh, with a very heavy swell, which forced us to
continue standing out to sea during the whole night. Weather still
damp and cloudy, and the thermometer at 79½. Lat. observed at noon
3° 30′ N.; long. by chron. 47° 25′ E.
31st, Thursday. The wind increased to a gale and blew furiously
during the whole day and following night, attended with a tremendous
heavy swell, which prevented us from approaching the shore near
enough to see anything distinctly; we could only remark that the
land seemed to be higher than what we had lately seen. Weather still
damp and cloudy, and the thermometer at 79°. Lat. observed at noon
2° 44′ N.; long. by chron. 46° 5′ E.; variation by amplitude 10° W.
February 1st, Friday. The wind moderating, we continued our course
along the coast in very irregular soundings of from 10 to 65
fathoms, rocks and gravel. At 9 A.M. the mosques of Magadosho were
seen bearing W.S.W. distant 9 or 10 miles. The late gale has
therefore carried us farther to the southward of the reported mouth
of the Doara—a mortifying circumstance, and to us a very severe
disappointment, for we had promised ourselves much gratification in
exploring that river—so interesting, and at the same time so little
known. At noon Magadosho bore W.N.W. of the ship two or three miles;
here we sounded, but could find no ground with a line of 80 fathoms.
The town, which is large and irregular, is situated on an uneven
sandy piece of ground close to the beach; the land behind
considerably lower than that on either side. The houses resemble
those seen in the towns on the coast of Arabia and Persia, and are
apparently built of stones and mud, of a low, square form, with
small doors and windows, and have all flat roofs. The most
conspicuous objects are the mosques already mentioned; there are
four of them; three of which are placed in the town, the other among
some straggling buildings, a little to the northward. The land both
to the N.E. and S.W. is of a reddish colour, thickly covered with
black spots, and upon them some low-spreading trees, which have a
very uncommon appearance. About ten miles to the southward is a
remarkable white sandy hill, which, with the red hills already
mentioned, are excellent marks in approaching Magadosho. The
sea-shore immediately opposite the town is sandy and guarded by a
reef, which, running from the rocks on the N.E. to the S.W. end of
the town, extends to about a quarter of a mile from the beach;
within the anchorage is said to be excellent. To the S.W., as to the
N.E., the shore is in many places low and rocky, forming what has
been described as islands (Note 5). We were doubtful of this, but
did not go near enough to ascertain. We observed a large village on
the northernmost of these supposed islands, a few miles south of
Magadosho. Having determined the position of the town, we were in
hopes that we might at last be enabled to anchor, and pursue at
leisure the inquiries we proposed to make here concerning some of
the objects of our search, but our bad fortune continued to attend
us, for the wind began again to blow very fresh, with an exceedingly
heavy swell setting in towards the shore. Under these circumstances,
we did not think it prudent to trust ourselves at anchor in an open
unprotected roadstead with a reef of rocks under our lee; we
therefore bore away along the coast to the S.W. of Magadosho till
the evening, when we stood out to sea and passed a night more
tempestuous than any we had hitherto experienced. The weather still
damp, with heavy dews at night, thermometer at 78°. Lat. observed at
noon 2° 4′ N.; long. by chron. at noon 45° 46′ E. According to us,
Magadosho is situated in N. lat. 2° 3′,[94] and in long. by chron.
42° 43′ E.
2nd, Saturday. Being driven from Magadosho the preceding night, we
intended if possible to make Meeya or Maiea,[95] a place laid down
about 14 or 15 miles to the S.W. of Madagascar. At twilight,
however, saw nothing of such a place, and were again forced to stand
out to sea during the night, when we must have passed it; for at
noon to-day we were off the town of Brava in N. lat. 1° 11′, and
long. 44° 9′ E. This town is situated under some very high reddish
land, spotted with black rocks, and has several small islands
abreast of it at a very short distance from the shore, one of which,
to the southward, opposite a white sandy patch of high ground, has a
tower or lighthouse on it. The land between Magadosho and Brava is
uniformly high, and has that remarkable reddish appearance already
so often described. Our bad fortune still persecuted us; we could
not anchor here for the same reasons that had prevented us at
Magadosho; we therefore yielded to our fate, and again took refuge
in a secure distance from the shore. The houses of Brava are similar
to those of Magadosho. The weather continued unaltered, with the
thermometer at 80°; N. lat. observed at noon 1° 14′.
3rd, Sunday. At noon we were in lat. 0° 5′ N. The land is low and
woody. Proceeded along shore, looking attentively for a river (Note
6) described to discharge itself thereabouts: our search proving
fruitless, at sunset came to anchor three or four miles from the
shore in 12 fathoms, soft sand; the land abreast of the ship low,
sandy, and rocky. Though the wind had much abated to-day, still,
however, it blew fresh with a considerable swell, and the weather
continued damp, with dew at night. Thermometer at 78½°. Lat. at noon
0° 5′ N.; long. 43° 11′ E.
4th, Monday. About midnight the Sylph parted from her anchor, got
under weigh early in the morning, and at noon passed the River Dos
Fuegos, or the Rogues’ River, and Juba[96] Irunjba, a village
situated at its mouth, but at too great a distance to make any
particular observations. The coast for a little north of this river
to Patta is faced by one continued chain of islands, some of which
are large and wooded, others very small. These islands are sometimes
connected by reefs[97] of rocks, over which a large surf beats, and
sandbanks surround them. The reefs run through their whole length,
frequently extending a considerable way out to sea; in one place,
about 20 miles south of Juba, even to 7 or 8 miles, opposite which
is a remarkable high insulated rock in-shore, appearing like a
square tower; here also the reef stretches a long way out—perhaps 5
or 6 miles. Though there are no soundings close to the edge of this
part of the bank, the water was remarked to have a very white
colour, resembling that often seen at the mouths of large rivers.
The land on this part of the Continent is in general moderately
high, and almost universally covered with wood; the shore shelves to
a smooth sandy beach, which is guarded by the islands and reefs
noticed. Steady moderate north-easterly winds, with fine weather,
but damp, and dews at night. The thermometer at 78½°. Lat. observed
at noon 0° 24′ S.
5th, Tuesday. In course of the afternoon passed by a deep inlet
where some boats were riding at anchor, and at sunset were abreast
of several large woody islands supposed to be those immediately
north of Patta; between 6 and 7 P.M. came to twelve fathoms, fine
sand. That part of the coast of Africa stretching from the equator
south beyond our present anchorage, promises in its aspect something
very interesting to the enterprising investigator. The numerous
richly-clothed islands which line the shore, separated by beautiful
and frequently spacious inlets and bounded behind by a delightful
continent, rich in all the charms of luxuriant vegetation, present
to the eye a prospect extremely enchanting, and would seem to
indicate a degree of natural wealth equal to the most favoured
regions of the known globe. Nothing could form a more striking
contrast with that in view than the barren coast to the eastward of
Juba.[98] Fine steady easterly breeze, with pleasant weather. It is
worthy of remark, since in the latitudes on this coast near the
line, a heavy dew had been observed to begin falling immediately
after the sun went down, and continued till some time after its rise
next morning; during the day the air felt very dry,[99] thermometer
at 79°. Lat. observed at noon 1° 23′ S.; long. per chron. at noon
41° 59′ E.; variation 13° W.
6th, Wednesday. Weighed and worked to windward for the purpose of
trying the current and to get clear of the land to observe the
latitude at noon; in a few tacks began to gain ground. It was
therefore evident that the strong southerly current which runs along
the coast during the North-east Monsoon had already began to change
its direction, though as yet it is probably only to be felt near the
shore. At noon saw a large dow a few miles astern, standing to the
southward. She seemed at first extremely cautious of approaching the
ships, but seeing English colours, ventured within hail, and being
informed who we were, acquired more confidence. We were informed
they were from Muscat bound to Mampasse;[100] they said their
shyness arose from a suspicion of our being French cruisers. They
afterwards obligingly sent on board two pilots to conduct the ship
to anchorage near Patta.[101] At sunset came to six fathoms and
abreast of some small isles at the south point of the isle of Guien,
which forms the north side of the inlet adjoining the Peer Patta
(Note 7), on which was observed a considerable town (Note 8),
bearing from the ship about N.W. Fired a gun as a signal for a Patta
pilot to carry us through the intricate channel to the inner
anchorage. Wind still steady from the N.E. with fine weather. The
thermometer at 79°. Lat. observed at noon 1° 59′ 6″.
7th, Thursday. A boat with pilots arrived from Patta; got under
weigh and proceeded through the passage at 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, and
at 11 A.M. came to again in a very narrow part of it leading between
the N.E. point of the island of Peer Patta and an extensive
sandbank, dry at low water, which runs a long way out. All of these
islands, namely, Peer Patta, Daw Patta, Mandra, &c., are faced with
shoals of rocks and render the navigation very difficult, and
should, with other considerations, deter trading vessels from
frequenting this port. In the afternoon sent the small boat with our
Hindostanee pilot to Patta, to acquaint the Sooltan of our arrival
and intention of visiting him next day. Weather as heretofore. The
position of this anchorage is in South lat. 2° 4′; long. by chron.
41° 14′ 2″; variation 14° W.
TRANSACTIONS AT PATTA.[102]
8th, Friday. The boat that went yesterday to Patta returned this
morning, having left behind Mallum Ali, the Hindostanee interpreter,
a circumstance which (there being reason to believe his stay not
voluntary) added to the report of the boat’s crew concerning the
deportment of the natives on shore, did not tend to impress us with
a favourable idea of their good intentions. We had already learnt,
from the pilots and others who had visited us on board, that the
place was distracted by civil dissensions; the Sooltanship being
claimed by two rival cousins, whose respective adherents, occupying
the same town, occasioned by their contentions a continual scene of
confusion: and we knew that any correspondence with one party under
these circumstances would, by the other, be considered as evincing a
disposition of hostility towards them. It therefore became a doubt
to which of these savage competitors for royalty we ought to pay our
respects; for though we never dreamt of ascertaining the question of
right and wrong between them, it was of some importance to discover
which party was strongest and best able to protect and assist us in
the prosecution of our inquiries. But this was found impracticable;
several partisans of both factions were indeed on board, but each
endeavoured to make it appear that his own was the right and
powerful Sooltan. Had the boat’s crew been able to tell whose hands
Mallum Ali had fallen into, it would have settled the matter as to
the person, whoever he might be, there must have been a necessity to
pay court; but none of them could speak with certainty respecting
him. Disappointed in obtaining satisfactory information concerning
this point, it was nevertheless determined to persevere in the
resolution of visiting Patta. Accordingly about 11 A.M. Captain
Smee, in company with Lieut. Hardy, myself, and the pilots, carrying
with us a present (Note 9) for the Sooltan, left the ship in the
large cutter, manned with Europeans. It was judged prudent to take
Arabs (though, to prevent misunderstanding, they remained concealed
till compelled to produce them in our own defence). We had scarcely
got a mile from the ship when we were met by a boat belonging to
Sooltan Hammed with presents for Captain Smee; but finding him on
his way to Patta he declined going any farther; the chief man and
one of the Sepoys came into the cutter, and their boat returned with
us to town. This conduct appearing very suspicious, determined us to
act cautiously and avoid particularly giving any pretence for
violence. After two hours’ sail we arrived off Patta: it was then
low water, and the cutter could not approach nearer to the shore
than half a mile; we were therefore obliged to go separately into
small canoes which the negroes pushed through the mud to the beach.
On landing nobody appeared to receive or conduct us to the
Sooltan—another suspicious circumstance that did not give us much
encouragement. But, had such been our desire, we had already gone
too far to return, for the cutter with all the Europeans and Arabs
were at some distance, and we had no means of rejoining them. Those
who landed were—Captain Smee, Lieut. Hardy, and myself, the
Syrang,[103] captain’s servants, with the pilots and persons from
the Sooltan’s boat. Under the direction of these last we walked from
the landing-place, surrounded by a crowd of armed savages, to a
large unshapely heap of mud called the Palace of Sooltan Hammed,
where we met with our interpreter, Mallum Ali. Having entered it
through a wicket in a strong door or gate, we were conducted across
a square court to a kind of open porch used, it seems, as a place of
public audience; in it were placed several low beds or couches with
broken rattan bottoms, on one of which we were desired to sit down.
They were excessively dirty and looked as if they had been stolen
from some native brother in India. Immediately to the left of the
one in which we were seated, stood the Sooltan’s seat or throne,
being nothing more than a new wooden arm-chair with a high back, and
some rude carving on it. On the ground before, a round piece of wood
or stone with a hole in the middle supplied the place of a
footstool; and around stood a crowd of naked men and boys, for all
ranks and descriptions have, it seems, here free access to the
presence of their sovereign. The Sooltan immediately entered, and,
holding out his hand to us severally, took ours, and put the back of
it to his mouth—a ceremony the natives reversed; they all kissed the
back of his hand. He is in person of a middle stature, rather
corpulent, and has an agreeable countenance; I imagined his age to
be about 35. He was dressed in a long, dirty, yellowish-coloured
gown with a greasy turban on his head, and filthy loose slippers on
his feet, and in the left hand carried a sabre, the handle of which
was of black wood ornamented with gold and silver. Being seated, a
tin goblet of sugar and water, the favourite beverage of the
country, was handed to each, which having drunk, the presents, with
the letters from government, were delivered by Captain Smee, who
complimented the Sooltan in the name of Mr Duncan and the Honourable
Company. He returned the compliments, but did not at that time open
the letters. A conversation afterwards ensued, in which the objects
of the voyage were stated, with a request for all the information in
his power respecting them; but he seemed dissatisfied with the
explanation of our views, which he probably suspected concealed
designs of a dangerous nature, and appeared to stand very much on
the reserve. To our interrogations about the unfortunate Mr
Park[104] and his associates, he only answered, ‘How can I speak of
the man? I never saw him.’ Regarding the rivers on the coast he
confessed Rogues River to be of immense extent, that its sources
were far beyond his knowledge, commonly believed to be in Europe,
or, as he expressed it, ‘in our country;’[105] that a great number
of slaves were brought down it to Brova; but as to the towns, state
of the country, or people which dwell on its banks, he said he was
totally ignorant. At my suggestion it was proposed to introduce the
vaccine or inoculation at Patta, with the means for which I was
ready provided. The Sooltan asked if that was possible, for,
allowing I might be able to do such a thing, how could it be
propagated so as to be of advantage. It was replied that a
sufficient number of persons might be easily instructed for the
purpose; but he seemed to doubt the truth of this assertion, and
treated the proposal with contemptuous neglect. Then, rising, he
abruptly withdrew. Thinking the audience at an end, we were about to
retire, but it was intimated that we must walk into another
apartment, whither they conducted us, the way to it leading through
the opposite side of the court and up a narrow mud staircase: this
room was better furnished, but equally filthy and more gloomy than
the former. The Sooltan soon followed us, and it presently appeared,
if we did not pay a very high price for liberty to take leave of his
Highness, we must consent to remain for a time much exceeding either
our pleasure or convenience. Seating himself for a moment and
whispering to some of his attendants, he rose, and with them retired
into an inner room, where Captain Smee was called, and remained
separated from us during the rest of the conference, which lasted
till near sunset. About 4 P.M. they all came out for a few minutes,
and at this moment a lascar arrived from the boat and told us the
people had been fired upon, but that on showing their arms they
desisted. This outrage (we had a flag of truce flying all the time)
was taken no notice of. The Sooltan laid it to the charge of his
cousin’s (Note 10) party. His Highness, however, seemed perfectly
ashamed of his own treatment of us, which was such as he did not
care to make public, for he carried Captain Smee a second time into
the private apartment for the purpose, as we afterwards understood,
of extorting a promise of money and other articles from him. Our
feelings were at this moment very uncomfortable. It was easy to see
some mischief was in hand, for the place where we sat, and the
passages about it, were filled with armed men; those who before had
none, going out and returning with spears, bows and arrows, &c. Near
sunset, Captain Smee again came out and, without sitting down, said
he was going to the beach; we followed, and though environed by an
armed multitude, reached it without molestation. Finding the boat,
by the rise of the tide, had got close in, we embarked with great
satisfaction. When Captain Smee was first called out, the Sooltan
required that he should supply them with 15 muskets, 10 pistols, 11
barrels of gunpowder, several parcels of flints, &c. This demand was
remonstrated against, on the ground that these articles belonged to
the Company his masters, and if he parted with them he could not
defend himself against his enemies,—two of whose vessels, they
themselves had acknowledged, were at Zanzibar and Quailemane; but
again reflecting he was entirely in their power, promised to comply
with their requisitions as far as compatible with the safety of the
ships under his command. They seemed satisfied; said the French
vessels at Zanzibar and Quailemane were only small vessels trading
for slaves, and for the time put an end to the conference; but
encouraged by success (for they seemed to place great confidence in
the promise of an Englishman), a second request for money to satisfy
their soldiers was made, to which Captain Smee positively refused to
accede. He told them he had no money to spare; asked if the letters
he had delivered had been read; if so, that he was astonished they
should make so unreasonable a demand. To this they returned an
equivocating answer; first they had not; then they had read them.
Perceiving him anxious to take leave (for they evidently intended to
protract the interview till it should be too late for the boat to
get off), they insisted on his staying to eat; said he had better
stay all night, for there was not water enough for the boat to get
to the ship. He said he would go and see, and without giving time
for deliberation, walked out and fortunately got to the beach before
the rabble without knew anything of the affair. Having got the two
pilots into the cutter and a Sepoy belonging to the Sooltan’s boat
who was still waiting on the beach, we put off, determining to keep
him as a security for the safety of Mallum Ali, who remained behind
to preserve a show of friendship with the Sooltan, and at midnight
reached the ships, much fatigued, and happy at having escaped so
well.
DESCRIPTION OF PATTA.
The town of Patta stands on a low square point between two
salt-water creeks surrounded with woods, chiefly cocoa-nut trees,
and is composed of wretched mud buildings. No fruit except the
cocoa-nut was met with, and it was found impossible to procure any
fresh water. The sheep, which are covered with hair instead of wool,
and their goats are excellent (Note 11). The inhabitants belong to
the Souallie[106] tribe, a people sprung from a mixture of the
Galla[107] negroes with the Arabs, &c. The flat nose and thick lips,
so peculiarly distinctive of the African countenance, is generally
observed among them, and sufficiently marks their original
connection with that race;[108] the woolly covering of the head
universally prevails; the colour of their skins varies from a
reddish brown or tawny hue, like the Arabs, to nearly a deep black;
in their dispositions they are cunning and treacherous to the last
degree.[109]
On the 9th, the same boat we met yesterday, and which returned with
us to town, arrived at the ships with presents from the Sooltan,
consisting of 60 cocoa-nuts, three white bullocks, and three goats
in charge of one of his principal men, who came to receive the
articles, the promise of which had been extorted during the
interview at Patta. To give no cause for quarrel, the Sooltan’s
present was accepted, but the boat was sent back with an answer that
until Mallum Ali should be sent on board not a single article would
be parted with. The pilots perceiving the boats go away without
them, became very outrageous, and attempted to leap overboard, but
finding themselves too well guarded, they desisted, and began to say
(in direct contradiction to what they formerly asserted, and on the
strength of which we had allowed ourselves to be brought to the
present anchorage) that there was not water enough for the ships to
get through the channel of the S.W., as the wind rendered it
impossible for us to return the way we came in, and the above
passage the only one by which we could keep clear of the shoals
which surrounded us. We determined to detain the pilots till the
ships were out of danger.
Next day, the 10th, the boat returned with Mallum Ali, though the
promise given to the Sooltan was compulsory, and did not, strictly
speaking, deserve the least regard; yet out of respect to the word
and honour of an Englishman, as well as for the sake of any of our
countrymen who might hereafter fall into their hands, and on whom
they might be tempted to retaliate their disappointment, it was
resolved to adhere to our extorted engagements as far as consistent
with the safety of the ships. Therefore five muskets, two pistols,
two barrels of gunpowder, two bundles of musket-ball cartridges, and
160 flints, being all we could spare, were delivered, with which
they departed very well satisfied, and thus terminated this
troublesome business.
From the 10th to the 12th we were occupied in getting through the
S.W. channel, which proved a very tedious job. The pilots were
either too ignorant or too unwilling to be of much service, and it
became necessary to keep our boats out sounding in order to discover
the passage, and direct the ships how to steer: we found it very
narrow, and interrupted in two places by bars, on which at high
water we found not more than one quarter less three fathoms. From
the anchorage the channel ran W.S.W. 1/2 W., about half a mile, and
then turned to the southward. In leading out on the 11th the Sylph
grounded, but soon got off again; on the evening of the 12th, having
got clear of the sands and rocks, dismissed the pilots, and stood
out to sea during the night. Since anchoring at Patta the weather
(with the exception of the morning of the 8th, when a few drops of
rain fell) was fair with pleasant easterly winds, and heavy dews at
night. The thermometer generally at 82°. The town, as near as we
could ascertain (for we had no opportunity of determining it
exactly), is in lat. 2° 8′ S., and long. by chron. 41° 13′ E.,
variation 14° W.
13th, Wednesday. No land in sight[110] during the day, and light
easterly winds and calms prevailed with clear weather. Lat. at noon
2° 48′ S.
14th, Thursday. The course N.E. by E. Saw land bearing W.N.W., on
which several large fires were burning, and at sunset were abreast
of some small rocky islands, which seemed a continuation of the
chain to the northward of Patta. Wind favourable. Lat. 2° 48′ S.
15th, Friday. In lat. 2° 41′ S., variation per azimuth 13° 29′ W.
Fine weather, with light favourable winds.
16th, Saturday. In course of the afternoon yesterday we passed a
reef of rocks, part of which rose considerably above the surface of
the water, and had a very remarkable appearance. The reef runs from
the N.E. point of Formosa Bay (Note 12), stretching several miles
off shore in a south-easterly direction; the situation[111] I
supposed to be in South lat. 2° 45′, for having to-day at noon
observed in 2° 58′, it was then 15 or 16 miles astern of us. At noon
the S.W. point of Formosa Bay bearing S.W. by W., observed two boats
under the land; stood in with a view to speak them, and fired two
guns which they took no notice of, but crowding all sail, made round
the point into the Bay. Crossing the mouth of Formosa Bay at 5 P.M.,
saw another reef with breakers on it. We were at this time about 4
miles from shore, in 24 fathoms sand, and the breakers could not, I
think, be more than 1½, or at the farthest, two miles from the ship.
At 5 h. 20′ hove to in 13 fathoms, when the water suddenly shoaled
to 6, 5, and one quarter less 4 fathoms, rocks. On shoaling a
mosque, or round tower, was observed on a point or projecting part
of the shore, bearing W. 3/4 N., distant 8 or 9 miles. Hauled our
wind, and stood out for the night, intending to return next morning
to determine as accurately as possible the exact situation of this
dangerous shore. To-day there were light favourable winds with fine
clear weather, the thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 2° 58′ S., long.
40° 8′ E.
17th, Sunday. At noon observed in lat. 3° 8′ S., the mosque seen on
shore within the breakers yesterday, bearing due W. (Note 13). Spoke
a country boat, which informed us the tower or mosque was called
Gumanne;[112] also that a river opened at a short distance ahead,
called Quiliffa.[113] At 4 P.M. were abreast of what we imagine to
be this river, which has a small island at its mouth. Though the
distance on the shore did not exceed two miles, no ground could be
found with a line of 70 fathoms, and the water did not appear to be
in any way discoloured. Thermometer 79°; lat. 3° 18′ S.; long. by
chron. 40° 28′ E., by lunar 40° 30′ E.
18th, Monday. The coast rose into gently elevated hills, which were
clothed with wood, and presented a fine fertile appearance. At noon
the opening of the Quiliffa (Note 14), bearing N. 1/4 E. 8 or 9
miles; the lat. observed was 3° 32′ S. About 2 P.M. saw another
river, said to be called the Channay,[114] distant from the ship 1½
miles right abreast. No soundings with 38 fathoms here. It had a
large shoal with breakers close to the mouth, and its probable
position may be in lat. 3° 32′ S., and long. 39° 51′ E.; variation
by azimuth 13° 26′ W. To-day we had light easterly winds, with clear
warm weather, the thermometer at 80½°. Here a pretty strong
southerly current was experienced. Long. 39° 45′.
19th, Tuesday. The town of Mombaze, or as the natives pronounce it
Mampass, was abreast of us, distant two miles. The fort stands at a
short distance from the shore on a steep woody ridge, said to be an
island, and has three flagstaffs on it. A little to the N.E. three
remarkable hills or hummocks[115] serve as good marks for finding
the place. Its situation my be in S. lat. 4° 2′, and in long. 39°
41′ 30″ E. At noon spoke a boat with a cargo of slaves, two days
from Zanzibar, and towards evening saw the Island of Pemba a-head;
worked to windward during night to weather it. Pleasant easterly
breezes, with fine clear weather. The thermometer at 80°. Lat. at
noon 4° 7′ S., long. by chron. 39° 51′ E.
20th, Wednesday. No land in sight during the early part of the day,
which was sultry and calm, but in course of the afternoon, a breeze
springing up about sunset, saw the Island of Pemba bearing S. 1/2 W.
four or five leagues. In the evening stood out to the eastward,
intending to return next day and observe the position of this
island. The thermometer at 81°. Lat. observed at noon 4° 34′ S.
21st, Thursday. At noon observed in 5° 7′ S. the east point of
Pemba, bearing west about two miles. Pemba is a low even island of
considerable extent, being perhaps 16 or 17 leagues[116] in length.
It is entirely covered with wood, and appears well-peopled. The
shore, generally low and steep to the water’s edge, shelves in some
small spots to a sandy beach remarkably white, that at a distance
shows like walls or pieces of buildings. Throughout its whole extent
are numerous creeks or inlets, and towards the S. W. end is a deep
bay with several small islands at its mouth, hitherto as far as I
know undescribed. Fresh north-easterly winds and cloudy weather; the
thermometer at 82½°. Stood to windward during the night.
22nd, Friday. At noon saw the Island of Zanzibar a-head; about
sunset anchored in 25 fathoms, green mud, abreast of Timbat, the
largest of the small woody islands at the north-west end of
Zanzibar. A little after the Sylph came close to us: the thermometer
at 82°; lat. observed at noon 5° 37′ S.
23rd, Saturday, 7 A.M. Weighed and stood along the western side of
the island (the Sylph leading), in from 5 to 15 fathoms, and at 11
anchored in the harbour in 7 fathoms, mud. The town of Zanzibar,
then S.W. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile. Each vessel
saluted the fort with three guns, which was not returned. In course
of the afternoon sent the boat ashore with the Interpreter to
acquaint the Hakim of our arrival. Moderate northerly winds and fair
weather.
24th, Sunday. Accompanied the commanders on a visit to the Governor,
or Hakim, as he is titled. He received us with great civility, and
made many professions of friendship and assistance, which, however,
in the sequel we did not find him disposed to act up to. We were
saluted on landing and coming off by the fort and a ketch in the
harbour. Thermometer 82½. Fair weather. (Note 15.)
PROCEEDINGS AT ZANZIBAR, from the 25th February to the 9th April,
1811, with some account of the island.
Zanzibar, situated between the 6th and 7th of S. lat. and 39th and
40th of E. long., is an island of considerable extent, being nearly
50 miles in length, and 20 in breadth; its distance from the east
coast of the African Continent, along which it stretches in a
N.-easterly and S.-westerly direction, may be about 15 or 16
leagues;[117] between the Continent and it, however, there is no
passage for large vessels, except through the harbour, as a reef
runs obliquely across from the African shore to the small islands
which lie close to the western side of Zanzibar.[118] These islets,
which stand considerably nearer to the south than the north (Note
16) extreme of the island,[119] are all, except one, covered with
wood, and help to form the harbour. They run in a semi-circle, the
concave side of which is towards Zanzibar, and are connected
together by reefs of rocks, which, in blowy weather, break the
swell, and render the port remarkably smooth and safe. The entrances
into it are from the north and south; both lead between the small
islet at the extremity of the semi-circle and the western shore of
Zanzibar. The northern entrance, which leads within the small woody
isle, called Frenchman’s Island,[120] is very narrow and crooked, in
consequence of sand-banks, which run out from opposite shores,
crossing each other. On the shallowest part (which will be known by
bringing three northern woody isles in one) the depth is not more
than three or four fathoms. The southern passes between a sandy isle
(Note 17), and the point on which the town of Zanzibar stands is
broader than the other, and has 7 or 8 fathoms water in it. The
depth within the harbour is from 7 to 9 fathoms, with a tolerably
good bottom: the rise of water during spring is nearly three
fathoms.[121] Immediately adjoining the north end of the town is an
extensive creek or inlet, which runs a little way in, and turns up
behind the town. Here vessels of all descriptions are hauled up in
security during the virulence of the S.W. Monsoon. With a very
little care it might be converted into an excellent dock, and
deepened, so as to admit with ease ships of at least five or six
hundred tons.
The appearance of the island is extremely delightful. It is in
general low, especially at the extremities, where it is thickly
covered with a jungle and brushwood; but towards the middle the land
rises into hills and gentle eminences, which are cultivated, and
clothed with cocoa-nut trees. Besides the periodical rains which
fall here from the month of March to September, the island itself is
well-watered with a variety of springs, which unite and form a
number of delightful streams, that flow during the dry season, and
keep up that appearance of fertility and beauty, which it exhibits
throughout the whole year. None of these streams are large: that at
which the ships water[122] is situated about 1½ mile north of the
town, where it flows into the sea, at the north entrance of the
harbour. The water when first taken up is good, but from the
quantity of putrid vegetable matter in suspension, upon keeping a
short time it becomes very offensive both in taste and smell; in a
few weeks, however, it regains its original sweetness. Ships ought
always to fill at low water, else they will have it brackish. The
climate of Zanzibar is similar to that of India, only the Monsoon,
or rainy season, sets in sooner. From September to March the season
is dry and warm; the rest of the months are rainy and tempestuous.
During our stay the thermometer ranged from 80½ to 87½° at noon; and
from the date of our arrival to the 5th of March, the weather was
dry, cloudy, and warm, with northerly winds. From that, till our
departure, it was in general cloudy, with frequent violent squalls
of wind, and rain from the S.W., attended with much thunder and
lightning.
The town of Zanzibar is situated on the west side of the island on a
tongue of land formed by the above-mentioned creek, and faces the
small sandy isle which constitutes the southern boundary of the
harbour. It is large and populous, and is composed chiefly of cajan
huts, all neatly constructed with sloping roofs. There are, however,
a good number of stone buildings in it belonging to the Arabs and
merchants; and in the centre, close to the beach, stands a fort,
seemingly partly of Arab, partly of Portuguese, construction. It is
square with a tower at each corner, and a battery or outwork towards
the sea, in which I observed four or five guns of French manufacture
remarkable for their length. In the middle of the town we observed a
tree[123] of uncommon size: its height was about 8 or 10 feet, and
from a rude measurement which we took, its circumference could not,
I think, be less than 36 or 40 (Note 18). Zanzibar according to our
observations stands in lat. 6° 6′ S., and long. 39° 15′ E.[124]
(Note 19.) It is the only assemblage of habitations on the island
that deserves the name of town or even village; for the principal
part of the inhabitants without the town being slaves of
landholders, are scattered over their respective owners’ estates.
The sovereignty of the island belongs to the Imaum of Muscat,[125]
who appoints the Hakim or governor, and to whom the revenue derived
from its commerce and land-tenures devolves. This revenue is said to
amount to 60,000 crowns annually, though I have reason to believe it
to be much more. His whole establishment consists of the Hakim, an
assistant or councillor, and three Arab officers, to command the
garrison. The present Hakim is a slave of his own whose history is
somewhat curious: he is named Yacoud,[126] and was originally from
Abyssinia: he belonged to the Imaum’s uncle and predecessor, who,
detecting him in some familiarities with one of his young female
slaves, caused him to be emasculated. Since his former master’s
death he has become a great favourite of the present one, who
promoted him to this distant and lucrative government,—perhaps
considering that, as he had lost all relish for the only pleasure
that can induce an Arab to dissipate his own or his master’s money,
he would likely turn out a faithful and valuable servant; nor has he
been disappointed. Yacoud’s ruling passion is the love of power, to
attain which he himself lives like a beggar, and tyrannically
extorts from the inhabitants large sums, which, with his own
savings, he faithfully transmits as the price of his continuance in
the government. The people, however, who live under his sway, detest
and despise him. The revenue, as already stated, arises from
land-tenures and customs; and though there is no regular land-tax
levied, yet it is sometimes resorted to to raise a supply, an
instance of which happened while we were there. One of the Imaum’s
ships arrived from Muscat with a demand for 25,000 crowns to assist
him in opposing the Wahabees, though I sincerely believe it was to
defray the repairs of the very ship which brought the demand, and
which was going to Bengal for that purpose. As this sum was not in
the Hakim’s possession, he immediately imposed a kind of land-tax,
so much to be raised in each district, the chief man of which was
ordered to collect it and be answerable for its payment at a stated
time, in default of which he was to be imprisoned. The other source
from whence the revenue proceeds is a custom of 5 per cent. allowed
by the Imaum to be gathered on all imports. This, however, is often
very unjustly collected, and few, I believe, except Arabs, ever pay
so little on their goods as the lawful sum. The Imaum maintains no
kind of military force. The Hakim’s slaves, amounting to 400 or 500
men, are armed to serve as soldiers under the above three Arab
officers. There are no imports or exports, though we were told the
French pay voluntarily a premium of 10 dollars each for the slaves
they take, to secure the good-will of the governor; they are in
consequence great favourites, and from this circumstance we may
easily account for his subsequent coolness to us, which was not
lessened by his hearing of the surrender of the Isle of France while
we were there, and on which occasion both vessels fired a royal
salute. The principal articles of export are slaves and ivory, also
a small quantity of drugs (Note 20). The number of slaves annually
sent to Muscat, India, and the Isle of France, &c., are estimated at
not less than from 6000 to 10,000. The quantity of ivory is also
very great, and is sent principally to Surat. Of imports the
following are the chief: Surat and Dungaree cloth from Cutch; iron,
sugar, and rice from Bombay, rice from Pemba, dates from the Gulf of
Persia; slaves, ivory, and drugs from Magadosho, Brava, Ganu,
Mombas, and other towns along the African coast (Note 21). The
number of trading vessels, including those from Semap and Cutch,
amounted at the time we left the island to upwards of 50. I could
not procure accurate information as to the quantity of the above
articles annually imported; but from the amount of the custom, the
value cannot be under £300,000. We were told that the demand for
European goods on the continent was very great; and if the natives
had any returns to make besides ivory and slaves,[127] I have little
doubt but we might here find an extensive and lucrative vent for
numerous articles of our manufacture.
A GENERAL VIEW OF THE EXPORTS AND IMPORTS OF ZANZIBAR.
Exports. │ Imports.
Slaves. │Surat cloth <img
│ class="inline"
│ style="width:auto; From Cutch.
│ height:2em;"
│ alt="{"
│ src="images/rbracket_50.jpg"/>
Ivory. │Dungaree cloth
Drugs. │Iron <img
│ class="inline"
│ style="width:auto; from
│ height:2em;" Bombay.
│ alt="{"
│ src="images/rbracket_50.jpg"/>
Coir. │Sugar and rice
Cocoa-nuts. │Salt fish and Ghee, from Socotra.
Beeswax. │Cloths, cotton <img
│ class="inline"
│ style="width:auto; From Surat.
│ height:4em;"
│ alt="{"
│ src="images/rbracket_50.jpg"/>
Tortoise-shell.│China ware
│Earthen jars
│Toys and ornaments
│Rice, from Pemba.
│Dates, from Gulf of Persia.
│Slaves, ivory, and <img
│drugs class="inline"
│ style="width:auto; From the
│ height:3em;" African Coast.
│ alt="{"
│ src="images/rbracket_50.jpg"/>
│Beeswax and
│Tortoise shell
The inhabitants of Zanzibar consist of Arabs, descendants of Arabs
from Souallie mothers. The Arabs are not very numerous; but the
principal part of the slaves and landed property belong to them. A
considerable number of Banians likewise reside in the town, many of
whom appear to be wealthy, and hold the best part of the trade in
their hands. The Souallies form by far the major part of the
population, and are almost all slaves to the Arabs—800 or 900 of
them sometimes belonging to one individual. They are in general
purchased in their native country on the opposite shores, when
young, and are brought here by the slave merchants, who dispose of
them either to the Arabs or to the merchants, &c., for exportation.
Those are fortunate who fall into the hands of Arabs, who are justly
famed for their mild treatment of their slaves. They are allowed a
small habitation on their master’s estate; and not being overworked,
and the fertile soil furnishing with little trouble the means for
their subsistence, they seem to enjoy a considerable portion of
contentment and happiness—a strong proof of which is, that they
propagate freely.
All, however, are not equally well situated; and the advocates for
the slave-trade ought to witness the market of Zanzibar, after
which, if they possess the slightest spark of generous feeling, I
will answer for an alteration in their present opinion. The show
commences about 4 o’clock in the afternoon. The slaves, set off to
the best advantage by having their skins cleaned, and burnished with
cocoa—nut oil, their faces painted with red and white stripes, which
is here esteemed elegance, and the hands, noses, ears, and feet,
ornamented with a profusion of bracelets of gold and silver and
jewels, are ranged in a line, commencing with the youngest, and
increasing to the rear according to their size and age. At the head
of this file, which is composed of all sexes and ages from 6 to 60,
walks the person who owns them; behind, and at each side, two or
three of his domestic slaves, armed with swords and spears, serve as
a guard. Thus ordered, the procession begins, and passes through the
market-place and principal streets; the owner holding forth, in a
kind of song, the good qualities of his slaves and the high prices
that have been offered for them. When any of them strikes a
spectator’s fancy the line immediately stops, and a process of
examination ensues, which, for minuteness, is unequalled in any
cattle market in Europe. The intending purchaser having ascertained
there is no defect in the faculties of speech, hearing, &c., that
there is no disease present, and that the slave does not snore in
sleeping, which is counted a very great fault, next proceeds to
examine the person: the mouth and teeth are first inspected, and
afterwards every part of the body in succession, not even excepting
the breasts, &c., of the girls, many of whom I have seen handled in
the most indecent manner in the public market by their purchasers;
indeed, there is every reason to believe that the slave-dealers
almost universally force the young females to submit to their lust
previous to their being disposed of. The slave is then made to run
or walk a little way, to show there is no defect about the feet; and
after which, if the price be agreed to, they are stripped of their
finery and delivered over to their future master. I have frequently
counted between twenty and thirty of these files in the market, some
of which contained about thirty. Women with children newly-born,
hanging at their breasts, and others so old they can scarcely walk,
are sometimes seen dragged about in this manner. I observed they had
in general a very dejected look; some groups appeared so ill-fed
that their bones seemed as if ready to penetrate the skin. From such
scenes one turns away with pity and indignation, and while he
execrates the conductor of this infamous traffic, blushes that his
country should ever have sanctioned such iniquity, and remembers
with exultation the men who freed her from so great a disgrace.
The number of inhabitants on the island may be estimated at 200,000
(Note 22), three-fourths of whom at least are slaves. The Souallee
tribe appears to have sprung from a mixture of Galla negroes, Arabs,
natives of India, &c. They inhabit that portion of the African coast
extending from the equator to the Mozambique as the Soomallie tribes
do that on the north, stretching to the Cape Guardafui; their
country is, however, confined to a narrow tract along the sea-coast,
the district behind belonging to the Galla (Note 23), who are also
divided into two different kinds—those living north of the line
behind the Somallies are denominated Borran Galla; those on the
south side behind the Souallies are distinguished by the term
Carratche. Whether these differ much in person or manners I have
been unable to learn.
The Souallies have much more of the negro appearance than the
Soomallies; they have both woolly hair, and their skins are of a
deep black, but the Soomallie has neither the flat nose nor thick
lips which distinguishes the negro, and which is a very prominent
feature among the Souallies of Zanzibar. The Soomallies are also to
be distinguished by their slender make, which renders them more
active, and they possess a superior degree of vivacity to the
others, who appear to be of a grave character. With regard to the
religion and peculiar customs of these people, we had little
opportunities of becoming acquainted with them. The Souallies of
Zanzibar being under the sway of Arabs, in general adopt their
manners; and as to religion, those who profess any, I believe,
follow them in that likewise.
We did not observe that any of their domestic customs were singular
enough to deserve a particular description, except one, which,
though not peculiar to them, is perhaps carried to a greater length
than in most other places. I allude to the manner in which they
inter, or rather, expose, their dead. It is a habit all over the
town to bury amongst the houses, commonly under a tree, close to the
deceased person’s former habitation, which presents to a stranger
the appearance of a churchyard, and it would be well if the eye
alone was the only organ offended. Though the Arabs and wealthy are
properly covered, and have neat tombs erected over them, the poor
are only wrapped up in a mat, and have scarce sufficient sand thrown
over the corpse to hide it from the view; indeed, some part of it is
generally to be seen sticking through, and as to the slaves, they
are often laid out to putrefy on the beach,[128] not a single rag of
cloth or handful of earth being laid over them. In consequence of
this disgusting practice the stench in and about the town is
intolerable; and co-operating with the noxious effluvia which arises
from the putrid vegetable matter during the rainy season, tends to
produce fever and fluxes, which, we learned, make annually during
that period dreadful ravages among the inhabitants.
The English have hitherto had very little communication with
Zanzibar, though the French are frequently in the habit of coming
there from the Mauritius for slaves and Mocha coffee. Previous to
our arrival only one English vessel had touched at the island since
Admiral Blankett’s squadron was there in 1799, on his passage up the
coast to the Red Sea. Captain Bissel, whose account of that
expedition is published by Dalrymple, says they were told no British
ships had been there previous to that, within the memory of the
oldest person then living, and that they found the natives of the
inferior order so ignorant of the value of coin, as to prefer, in
their exchanges, a gilt button to a guinea. This might have been the
case then I will not dispute; but we not only found them well
acquainted with money, but as dexterous at over-reaching in a
bargain and exorbitant in their demands as any dealer in the bazaar
of Bombay. They were, however, as he justly observes, very civil and
hospitable, though not so much as he describes; but this difference
was probably owing to the dislike which the Hakim showed to us. Our
taking no hand in the slave-trade was remarked to have considerable
influence among the generality of the lower people in giving them a
favourable impression of our character, and for a contrary reason
they never failed to execrate the French, notwithstanding they were
favourites of their Hakims.
The soil of the island is in general light and sandy towards the
coast, but a little inland it is found to be a rich black mould,
seemingly composed of decayed vegetation, and the numerous springs
and periodical rains, with the excellent shelter afforded by the
cocoa-nut trees, which everywhere cover the island, all conspire to
render it extremely fruitful. Nothing can exceed the profusion of
fruits abounding in every quarter, all of them excellent.
Pine-apples of the most delicious sort are growing everywhere wild,
and heaps of oranges, guavas, &c., for want of consumers, are left
to rot on the ground which produced them. The following are the
principal fruits and vegetable productions of the island, viz.:
pine-apples, guavas, mangoes, lemons, limes, oranges, plantains,
bananas, pomegranates (a few imported by the Arabs), cocoa-nuts, and
many others, sugar-canes (Note 24), pumpkins, onions, sweet
potatoes, and the root of a plant which is called by the natives
mahogo (the Farina de pás[129] of the Portuguese).
Why the natives do not cultivate grain is hard to conceive; perhaps
the great plenty of the cocoa-nuts and the mahogo, with the
profusion of fruit, supersedes the necessity, and renders them
averse to the labour, of raising corn, although their country must
be exceedingly well adapted to it. The mahogo, which is the
principal article of diet, is eaten by them either simply roasted or
boiled, or it is cut into small pieces, which, being dried in the
sun, is ground into flour, of which is made a very palatable kind of
bread.
The operations of agriculture are not numerous, and indeed consist
chiefly in clearing the ground; this is done by fire, and seems to
be the practice throughout Africa. Within the tropics, where the
luxuriancy of vegetation is so great, it would be a work of great
labour, if not an absolute impossibility, to get rid of this in any
other way. The time of doing it is at the end of the dry season,
when the crops are collected and the rains are about to set in. In
coming down the coast we observed fires all along the fertile
country south of the line.
Asses and camels are the only beasts of burthen (Note 25), and being
scarce, are very valuable; horses have been imported by the Arabs,
but will not live. Bullocks and goats (Note 26) are good and in
plenty, and can be procured for a moderate price; a good bullock
fetches from ten to twelve dollars in the town, but might probably
be got for much less in the country. The rest of their quadrupeds
are cats and monkeys of various species. There are scarcely any dogs
on the island, the Souallies having a great aversion to them. When a
dog accidentally touches one of these people, he shows signs of
loathing and abhorrence.[130]
Poultry is plentiful and cheap; sixteen large or eighteen small
fowls may be bought for a dollar; but, what is a little
extraordinary, eggs are both scarce and dear, and when procured are
generally bad: they have also Muscovy ducks and Guinea-fowl, which
last are found wild on the island. The variety of birds and wild
fowl is not great. The principal are the whistling duck and curlews,
and the ibis of the ancients, so numerous on the banks of the Nile,
pigeons, doves, and a few others.
Spanish dollars and German crowns are the coins commonly current
among them; and though they will take some others, they prefer
these. Among the shoals and rocks which connect the small islands
that surround the harbour, and in the harbour itself, delicious fish
of great variety are usually taken in plenty, either with nets or
with the line and hook; and those who will take the trouble to
examine the shoals at low-water during spring-tides, will find their
labour amply repaid by a collection of curious and rare shells,
which for beauty are not to be surpassed by any in the known world.
Notwithstanding the heat of the climate, the vast quantity of wood,
and filthy manners of the inhabitants, it does not appear that
Zanzibar is an unhealthy island, except during the rainy season,
when fevers and fluxes are, from the above causes, very prevalent,
but which by proper regulations might be easily obviated. In a place
where there is no medical assistance or receptacles for the
diseased, it may be supposed numerous miserable objects would be met
with; this, however, is not the case. In walking about the town, I
did not remark a larger proportion of these unfortunate beings than
is generally to be met with in most of our own settlements in India.
Exclusive of fevers, dysentery, and their consequences, such as
dropsy, obstruction, &c., no other disease appeared to be frequent
except venereal, under which, in all its stages and forms, a very
great number of persons laboured. Their fevers are often of the
remittent form, but more frequently of the intermittent kind; and in
addition to the consequences already noticed to follow them,
sometimes terminate in an unusual weakness and pains over the body,
particularly of the lower extremities, which cause sometimes a total
loss of power.[131] I am unable with certainty to determine the
cause of this; perhaps it may arise from their sleeping on wet or
damp ground while confined with these disorders.
The small-pox,—that scourge of the human race,—also often visits the
natives of Zanzibar. We were told that about two years ago it made
dreadful ravages all over the island: 15,000 (Note 27) are said to
have perished in the town alone. This intelligence led me to hope
they would receive with avidity any proposal to secure them from the
effects of so dreadful a visitation. Though the vaccine matter
brought from Bombay was now nearly eleven weeks old, and I
consequently had great doubts of its power, I was resolved to let
slip no opportunity of trying to introduce it among them. I
therefore proposed it to the Hakim at our first interview, confident
that it would be eagerly solicited by those who had children and
young slaves belonging to them. In this, however, I was much
disappointed; for though their interest and the safety of their
offspring were at stake, I had the mortification to find their
prejudices stronger than the sense of either, and it was with the
utmost difficulty I could procure leave to try it on two children.
They were inoculated twice over, without being able to produce the
disease; but I had no great reason to regret my failure, for I
afterwards heard that the French, who, on purchasing young slaves,
always vaccinate them, had often introduced it among the
inhabitants, but that it had been found impossible to propagate it.
Is not this astonishing, that a people with whom self-interest is a
stronger passion than any other, should be under the influence of
motives which cause them to act in direct opposition to it? One
person—he who had allowed me to inoculate his children—acknowledged
he himself had lost no less than thirty young slaves during the late
prevalence of the disease. Perhaps the indifference they show at the
proposal of a preventative remedy arises from a want of faith in its
efficacy.
We now began to think of setting out on our return along the coast
to Mocha; the wind had begun to set in steady from the S.W., and our
consort, the Sylph, which it had been deemed advisable to convert
into a brig, being ready to return to Bombay, whither we had orders
to send her, we were about to depart, when a circumstance occurred
which for some time delayed it.
The Surat merchants, who had often complained of the Hakim’s
treatment, represented that he had demanded 3500 crowns from them as
their proportion of the tribute exacted by the Imam of Muscat, and
in failure of payment had threatened them with imprisonment. As
these people were trading under the English flag, and were, in fact,
British subjects, Captain Smee did not conceive that a foreign
prince had any right to tax them, especially as they had already
paid the customary port dues. Impressed with these sentiments, he
made a representation to the Hakim, who in consequence withdrew his
claims, but privately threatened the merchants with a double
imposition after our departure.
To prevent this, it was determined to leave the Sylph to countenance
them during their stay, and convoy them across to India at the
breaking up of the rainy season. While the Hakim, who had been
extremely inimical to us during our stay, and always anxious for us
to be gone, informed us he was coming to return our visit; this he
had on various pretences heretofore delayed; however, on Sunday, the
7th April, he came on board, when both ships dressed and saluted
him, and he was, notwithstanding his ill-behaviour, treated with the
greatest attention.
On Tuesday, the 9th, we weighed and sailed from Zanzibar, and in the
evening came to anchor under the small Island of Timbat, at the
north end of the island. On the morning of this day Henry Golding, a
stout, healthy seaman, was found dead between decks: he had no known
complaint at the time, and his death was supposed to have been
caused by suffocation, as it was understood he went to sleep very
much intoxicated. Having interred him on Frenchman’s Island, the
watering boat returned on board, and reported they had found the
body of a young female recently murdered, lying among the bushes at
the freshwater stream; as they had no means of interesting the
neighbours in her fate, they buried her immediately. On Wednesday,
the 10th, we got under weigh, and passing between Pemba and the
mainland, where there is a fine broad channel, we, without anything
further remarkable occurring, anchored in Mocha Roads on the 26th
April, 1811.
RESUMÉ.
I fell in with the coast of Africa in lat. 9° 30′ N. on the 25th
January, and from hence southward examined it as well as
circumstances would permit. On the 7th February I anchored in Patta
Harbour, and unfortunately found the country distracted by civil
dissensions, originating from two rival cousins, who each laid claim
to the Sooltanship. I found out the most popular, which happened to
be the youngest, and on him I waited with my government letters,
accompanied by Lieut. Hardy commanding the Sylph, and Mr Whigham, my
surgeon. I must have been three or four hours reaching town, and
after as long a detention there, and receiving some menacing
insults, which will be particularly detailed on my return, I escaped
from these wretches and reached the ship, much fatigued, some time
after midnight, having been six hours in the boat returning. Finding
the disposition of the natives precluded the success of any
inquiries I had to make, it was deemed advisable to quit the port;
but another difficulty arose, which points out the cunning treachery
of these people: we were now told the vessel could not go out
through the S.W. Channel (the only condition on which I entered the
harbour), but must warp out the way we came in (a thing impossible
against the prevailing wind and sea), or that we must wait the
change of monsoon. Detecting their duplicity, I seized and detained
two natives, who were concerned in bringing us in, and after two or
three days spent in buoying off a channel unknown to them, with the
top of high-water spring tides, grounding occasionally, we got the
vessel providentially through the banks, and clear of Patta reefs,
and then discharged the natives. Hence we proceeded southward along
the coast, and on the 24th of February anchored in this fine
harbour.
I waited on the Hakim and was kindly received; but the general
conduct of this personage has since proved very unaccommodating. I
was desirous during my stay here of procuring a house for the
purpose of receiving the visits of the well-disposed, and
unsuccessfully applied to the Hakim for one, or the use of a French
factory for a few days. I am told he forbid any one to furnish me,
and has used every endeavour to keep visitors away from the ship. He
is a person warmly in the French interest, and derives great
pecuniary advantages from the trade to this port. The welcome news
of the capture of the Isle of France was brought here by the Surat
vessels, which arrived in the middle of March. The Hakim would not
credit the account, until it was confirmed by a ship from Muscat a
few days ago.
The sum of the information I have been able to collect along the
East Coast of Africa and at this port, is, I am sorry to say, very
small. The first object of my search was the Doara river, which I
was not fortunate enough to fall in with, from the strength of the
prevailing winds and currents; if it exists it is doubtless a very
small stream. Magadosho, in lat. 2° 3′ N., I could only ascertain
the situation of: drifted past this. I hoped to see the town of
Marca, but was disappointed. I have been informed that it is a very
small village, less than Magadosho or Brava; that it has little or
no trade. I arrived off the port of Brava, in lat. 1° 10′ N. under
the same impediments—a high wind and sea, and strong currents, but
expected to find shelter from the plan I had of its harbour;
however, in standing close in for the purpose of anchoring, I was
disappointed to find it was impossible to bring the vessels up
without imminent risk of parting and being driven on shore, which
compelled me to haul off. I then looked for the river mentioned in
my instructions, whose supposed situation was to be found in 5′ N.
lat., but I could find no entrance whatever in that parallel. The
wind moderating on the line, I anchored the vessels on the eve of
the 3rd of February, with a view of exploring the river called Dos
Fuegos, and rendered into English by the late Capt. Bisset, ‘Rogues
River.’ During the night the Sylph parted her cable, and was driven
past this entrance, whose situation I could only geographically
ascertain. The town of Juba and the bar were distinctly seen in
passing from hence to Patta. The coast is fortified by a chain of
islands, mostly connected by reefs. Our transactions and inquiries
at the latter port were checked by the unfriendly disposition of the
natives. After clearing Patta, we proceeded southward along the
coast,—ascertaining it, also the two points of Formosa Bay, the
Leopard’s Shoal, and the mosque near it, with Quiliffa River, the
town and harbour of Mombas, the islands of Pemba (or Gedree)[132]
according to the Arabs, and Zanzibar, and the site of the coast
between these places.
My study has been to cultivate the friendship of all ranks, with a
view of gaining information on the points government have instructed
me; and the result of my labours amounts to the following, the
accuracy of which, as far as I can judge, there is no reason to
doubt. The fate of our countrymen, Park, Hornemann, and their
companions, was my first and most anxious inquiry, both at Patta and
this place, but I have not succeeded in meeting with any person who
has the least knowledge of them, and there is every reason to
suppose their fate is entirely unknown on this coast.
The town of Magadosho (Note 28) is not very considerable; it may
contain 150 or 200 houses, and from its mosques is very conspicuous
from seaward. It has not any river near it,[133] and has but little
trade, probably on account of the badness of its port, which only
affords shelter for boats within a reef fronting the town. The town
of Marca (Note 29) is small and has no safe anchorage off it.
Brava town (Note 30) is composed of about 100 huts, and is as
defective in its port as Magadosho. They are severally governed by
Soomallie chiefs. The mouth of Rogues River, called Govinda by the
Soomallies, Joob (Gibb) by the Arabs, and Foombo by the Souallies,
in lat. 0° 13′ S., is a large and extensive river, but on account of
its shallow bar, boats can only enter it at high water; it has
scarcely any trade, but such as is carried on by a few country
boats, the natives on its banks being thieves inimical to all
strangers. The next principal river, called Oazee,[134] situated one
day’s journey south of the Isles of Patta and Lamoo, is also
extensive, without trade. Quiliffa, the next, in lat. 3° 26′ S., is
a large and deep fresh-water stream, with few inhabitants and no
trade. Foongaruy[135] river, off the N.W. end of Zanzibar Island, is
next; it is in about lat. 5° 45′ S. Leefeege[136] is another large
river opposite Moonfia Island; and there is also a considerable
stream off the port of Quiloa or Keelwa.[137] Along this extent of
coast are many minor streams, but not one seems to possess
advantages as places of mercantile resort, or the Arabs would, no
doubt, ere this have benefited by any trade they held out. The tides
flow up the larger streams one day’s journey from their mouths, and
it is confidently reported they all take their rise among the
mountains in Abyssinia.
Five or six coss, or about one day’s journey at the back of the
towns of Magadosho, Marca, and Brava, is situated a small stream
called the Doho;[138] it does not join the Govinda, being lost among
some hills before it reaches so far south. It appears to me to be
(from the accounts of the reporter, an intelligent Soomallie) a
branch of the Zeebee,[139] which he calls the Dawaha, where the Doho
joins. The other, and principal branch, he says, runs through
Africa, and disembogues on the coast of Adel, near Burburreea.[140]
The town of Gunnanee, on the right bank of the Govinda, is about
four weeks’ journey from Brava; its inhabitants are Soomallies, and
it is composed of about 300 huts. Surat cloths are taken to it from
the coast, and exchanged for slaves, elephants’ teeth, &c. There is
another considerable village called Leeween, on the left of the
Govinda, some distance inland from that stream, inhabited by negroes
of no professed religion. The Eesoomadoo Galla, a race of cannibals,
the Oombaney, Howwahsow, and Arrooseeya Galla tribes, intermixed
with Soomallies, inhabit the banks of the Dahawa, nearest the
sea-coast; they do not cultivate the ground, but subsist on meat,
milk, and herbs. The Guracha[141] Galla inhabit the interior south
of the line, and the Borran[142] Galla north of the line; their
language is nearly similar; they are represented to be cannibals and
cruel thieves. The inhabitants opposite Zanzibar are Wuddooa[143]
negroes, but there is reason to believe this part of the coast was
formerly inhabited by the Guracha Galla, or, as my instructions
style them, the Giagas.[144] The Soomallies inhabit the sea-coast
from the equator north round Cape Guardafui to Burburreea and
Zeylah; their possessions extend some distance inland. The
Souallies, on the contrary, are confined close to the sea-coast, and
inhabit that part of it from the line south to about Cape Delgado,
tribes of Caffres occasionally intervening, particularly to the
southward of Zanzibar. The various tribes of negroes brought to this
port for sale are too numerous to describe; the principal are the
Meeamaizees,[145] whose country, at three months’ distance, abounds
in elephants’ teeth, and some gold is found there.
The Muckwa,[146] whose country is two months’ journey distant from
the sea-coast.
The Meeyahoo[147] is fifty days’ journey off the Gooroo[148]—is
fifteen days inland.
The Dohai,[149] ten days from the coast, are cannibals.
The Meegeendoo[150] are situated one months’ journey from the
sea-port of Quiloa.
The Jiggua,[151] four days, and the Moozumbarree,[152] three days,
&c. The interior is represented as a most fertile country, abounding
in cattle and elephants.
I have not been able to gather any satisfactory information
regarding the River Zambesie, its course, the town of Sofala,
character of its natives, or description of the surrounding country.
The Christian States of Yufat and Shoa on the confines of Abyssinia,
with the large towns of Tombuctoo, Cashna, and Hoossayee, said to be
in the interior of Africa or Ethiopia, under the government of
Mussulman princes, together with the circumstances relative to the
triennial voyages of Solomon’s fleet, from the Eslantic[153] Gulf to
Ophir, are unknown to the inhabitants of this place; nor have I yet
met with one who could afford me any satisfactory accounts of the
River Niger, or Joliba, or the Nile of Soudan, or South Africa.
I have made lists of the Souallie, Soomallie, and Galla dialects,
and shall add such others as I may be able to collect.
The coast from Cape Guardafui to Magadosho is arid and sterile; not
a hut or a boat was to be seen, although the sea-shore abounds with
fish. From the latter place the land improves, and on the line it
becomes completely woody, and so continues far to the southward.
The trade of this coast is chiefly in the hands of the Arabs from
Muscat, Maculla, &c., and a few adventurers from Cutch and the coast
of Scinde. The principal imports at Zanzibar are Surat cloths, to
the amount of about 12 lacs of rupees annually, besides beads,
cotton, sugar, ghee, fish, dates, and grain, and about 200 candies
of iron bar, which is partly distributed for use along the coast.
English woollens are in no demand, consequently not imported. The
exports are slaves, elephants’ teeth, raw dammer,[154] rhinoceros’
hides and horns, cowries, wax, turtle shells, coir, cocoa-nuts, &c.
The duties collected here on merchandise are said to amount to about
one and a half lacs of dollars annually; but as imposition and
extortion are occasionally resorted to, they may be considerably
more. The Imaum of Muscat receives from hence a clear sum of 60,000
dollars, and yearly makes an additional levy on various pretexts.
The following is a list of trading vessels at Zanzibar at the end of
March, 1811. Two ships, two snows, three ketches, 21 dows, 15
buglas, four dingeys, 10 small boats of sizes, besides a variety of
country boats constantly arriving and departing, and two large boats
building. Some seasons upwards of 100 large dows, &c., have been
known to arrive at this port from Arabia and India, but its trade
appears on the decline, while that of the ports of Mombas and Lamoo
belonging to independent Arab chiefs is annually improving, although
as harbours they do not possess near the advantages that Zanzibar
does.
The dress of the people in general is a coloured wrapper round their
loins. The better sort have, in addition, a loose white cloth over
their shoulders, and round their body. The Arabs wear turbans, while
the Souallies, Soomallies, and negroes go bareheaded.
The port of Patta, in lat. 2° 8′ S., has little or no trade on
account of the intricacy of its harbours and the nefarious conduct
of its inhabitants. It would appear the Surat traders are subject to
much imposition and extortion at Zanzibar, as the Hakim, over and
above the usual duties of 5 per cent., seizes such part of their
cargoes as he fancies; and the maquedahs[155] of the three vessels
now here have declared to me that, in collecting the duties on Surat
goods imported, he is not guided by any invoice prices, but fixes a
valuation on them far below the prime cost from the hands of the
manufacturer; and as he (the Hakim) pays himself in kind, takes good
care to detain for his own use such articles as are most saleable at
the time, by which means the merchant pays on an average 15 per
cent., and sometimes more, beyond the established rates fixed by the
Imaum of Muscat.
(Signed) THOMAS SMEE, Commander.
On Board the H. C.’s ship Ternate,
Zanzibar Harbour, 6th April, 1811.
-----
Footnote 82:
Last good observation of barometer. Two thermometers (F.) used,
attached and detached.
Footnote 83:
According to Captain Guillain (ii. 344) the Arabs call it Ras
Mume. As regards the term Dolphin’s Nose, he observes: ‘Je dois
avouer qui l’analogie pourrait être plus saissisante et elle
accuse au moins beaucoup d’imagination chez eux qui l’ont
remarquée.’ He appears to ignore that Dolphin’s Nose is a
recognized term for a long thick, point seen en profil, and
understood by every English sailor.
Footnote 84:
Better written Darajah, meaning a step, a tier.
Footnote 85:
Abd el Khuri, ‘the slave of the (married) priest or secular
clergyman.’ The people of Socotra were once Christians all. Others
write the name Abd el Kari, or slave of the Koran reader.
Footnote 86:
On the Island of Abd el Khuri, only 20 leagues west of Socotra,
heavy showers begin with February and end with April. Modern
travellers declare that there is not a single stream except during
the rains, and that the well water is all more or less brackish.
Footnote 87:
Ras Hafun (not Jard Hafun), N. lat. 10° 26′ 8″ (Raper).
Footnote 88:
Ponta das Baixas, the Cape of Shoals, the point called by the
Arabs Ra’as Aswad (Black Head), in N. lat. 4° 32′.
Footnote 89:
They were approaching the Sayf Tawil or Long Shore, which extends
from Ra’as el Khayl (N. lat. 7° 46′ 30″) to Ra’as Awaz, the Cape
of Change, where the Highlands fall.
Footnote 90:
January being the height of the Mausim or Kaskazi, when the Azyab
or N. E. wind blows home.
Footnote 91:
The Highlands were Jebel el Hirab, the ‘Mountain of the Keel,’
because it appears like a huge dow upturned. It rises some 9 to 10
miles from the seaboard, and backs the Ponta das Baixas or Ra’as
Aswad.
Footnote 92:
Ra’as Aswad in N. lat. 4° 44′ 5″ (Raper).
Footnote 93:
Still generally written Doara. It is apparently a mere Nullah or
Fiumara, and is hardly mentioned by modern navigators. I can only
suggest that the name might have been derived from Daaro, a
district or tribe on the Upper Juba river, and the inveterate
confusion of the potamology in this part of Africa can alone
account for the error.
Footnote 94:
N. lat. 2° 2′ 18″ (Capt. Guillain).
Footnote 95:
Marka town, N. lat. 1° 44′ 1″, generally known as Bandar Marka.
Footnote 96:
Probably from Goba, the meeting (scil. of waters), Gobwen
(corrupted to Govind) meaning the great meeting. Ganana is
supposed to mean division or bifurcation. Danok is probably a
corruption of the Galla Danesha, a settlement on the left bank of
the river. I nowhere find my notice of the ‘Irunjba’ village, and
presume that it is a corruption of ‘Gobwen.’
Footnote 97:
This reef, beginning at Makdishu, much resembles the great
Brazilian formation, extending from Pernambuco southward.
Footnote 98:
The voyagers had now passed from the barren Somali Coast (Azania)
to rich Zanzibar, where the tropical rains extend.
Footnote 99:
The cause of the dryness was the immense evaporation which the
coolness of night deposited in the form of dew.
Footnote 100:
Mombasah.
Footnote 101:
The Bette of the Arabs.
Footnote 102:
This account of Patta is valuable: we hear little of the place
from later travellers.
Footnote 103:
Sarhang, or native boatswain.
Footnote 104:
Englishmen at the time were full of the fate of Mr Park, and they
knew little of Africa, who expected the people of Patta to have
heard of the Niger.
Footnote 105:
Probably meaning Abyssinia.
Footnote 106:
The Wasawahili, or coast tribes.
Footnote 107:
The Gallas or Ormas are negroids, not negroes. This will answer
Note 23, which compares the Gallas with the west coast ‘niggers.’
Footnote 108:
The mixture of blood is with the negro races of the interior,
driven down as slaves, and with the Arabs and Persians, whose
first emigration dates probably from prehistoric ages.
Footnote 109:
We can hardly give them a better character now.
Footnote 110:
During this run they passed the mouths of the Ozi Dana, Zana, or
Pokomoni, and of the Adi, Sabaki, or Sabbak, rivers.
Footnote 111:
Melinde Pillar is in S. lat. 3° 12′ 8″ (Raper).
Footnote 112:
Ra’as Gomany, N. point N. lat. 3° 0′ 0″ (Raper).
Footnote 113:
Kilefi Bay confounded with the mouth of the Adi, Sabaki, or Sabbak
river, which debouches a little north of Formosa Bay, in which
Melinde lies.
Footnote 114:
Possibly the Mtu Apa (Tuaca or Nash river), or the Takaungu
streamlet, farther north.
Footnote 115:
The Corôa de Mombaza on the mainland nearly due north (magnetic)
of the settlement.
Footnote 116:
Its extreme length is 42 geographical miles.
Footnote 117:
For leagues, read geographical miles.
Footnote 118:
Modern charts show no such reef, and the minimum of mid-channel is
15 fathoms.
Footnote 119:
They are about midway in the island’s length.
Footnote 120:
Champani, the ‘Ile des Français,’ or Cemetery Island.
Footnote 121:
The average rise is about 13 feet.
Footnote 122:
The Mto-ni.
Footnote 123:
The Mbuyu, baobab or calabash tree (Adansonia digitata).
Footnote 124:
Corrected to S. lat. 6° 9′ 6″ and E. long. 39° 14′ 5″.
Footnote 125:
A mistake in title, which I have explained at full length.
Footnote 126:
Of this Yakut (the ruby) many tales are still told.
Footnote 127:
The lucrative copal trade is not mentioned.
Footnote 128:
Every traveller down to my own time has remarked this abomination
at Zanzibar.
Footnote 129:
Farinha de páu, or wood-meal.
Footnote 130:
This is apparently derived from their Persian ancestry.
Footnote 131:
This is the paralysis from which I suffered in the African
interior.
Footnote 132:
Probably a corruption of the Jezirat (el Khazra), the Green Island
of the Arabs.
Footnote 133:
The author had forgotten, or rather he had not seen, the ‘Nile of
Magadoxo.’
Footnote 134:
The Ozi river, south of Patta.
Footnote 135:
The Panga-ni river, which the Arabs would pronounce Fanga-ni.
Footnote 136:
The Rufigi, Lufigi, or Lufiji.
Footnote 137:
A popular error. The nearest river south of Kilwa would be the
Lindi, a little known stream in S. lat. 10°.
Footnote 138:
This is the Nile of Magadoxo, which he has ignored.
Footnote 139:
Webbe in Somali means any stream.
Footnote 140:
The well-known settlement Berberah. The intelligent Somali
evidently believed that the Hawash river and the Nile of Magadoxo
are of the same origin.
Footnote 141:
Now generally written Kurachi or Kurachasi, as the Arrooseeya are
the Arusi tribe.
Footnote 142:
Or Boren.
Footnote 143:
The Wadoe tribe.
Footnote 144:
This is, indeed, a wild confusion.
Footnote 145:
The Wanyamwezi.
Footnote 146:
The Wamakua, near Kilwa.
Footnote 147:
The Wahiao, S.E. of the Nyassa Lake.
Footnote 148:
The Wanguru of Southern Unyamwezi, or of the eastern ghauts,
opposite Zanzibar. The text is here corrupt.
Footnote 149:
This appears to be a corruption of Wadoe, called in p. 510
Wuddooa.
Footnote 150:
The Wangindo tribe on the road from Kilwa to the Nyassa Lake.
Footnote 151:
The tribes of the Chaga Highland.
Footnote 152:
The hill-men of Usumbara.
Footnote 153:
Elanitic.
Footnote 154:
Possibly copal.
Footnote 155:
Nakhudas, native skippers.
NOTES TO APPENDIX III.
BY CAPT. SMEE AND LIEUT. HARDY.
Note 1 (p. 460). Socotra, or Socotora, so well known for the
production of the drug aloes, is in most charts, except Horsburgh’s,
laid down too far to the westward. It bears E. by N. of Cape
Guardafui 138 miles, the latter being in long 51° 13′ E., and the
western extremity of Socotra in long. 53° 26′ and lat. 12° 24′ N. It
has several good harbours and anchoring-places, the best of which is
said to be Tivee, on the N. E. side of the Island, where water is
easily procured. Between it and Cape Guardafui are situated the
Isles of Sumhaa and Duraga, or, as we name them, the Brothers and
Adulcasia, all of which are also placed too much to the westward in
the charts. The last-mentioned island is said to afford plenty of
excellent fresh water. It is inhabited by Arabs, who are subject to
the chief of Socotra. Socotra is governed by an Arab Sheik. The
produce of the island being insufficient to support the population,
the ports of Arabia furnish it with grain, &c., &c. I believe that
aloes, fish, and salt are the only articles it produces. The
inhabitants are chiefly Arabs.
Note 2 (p. 466). Since the 25th we had been steering along that part
of the African Continent known to the English by the name of
Agan.[156] It is in general a low even coast, and is justly
represented as desert and barren. In passing along it some natives
were seen tending a few cattle on the shore, but there is reason to
believe, from the apparent extreme infertility of the sand, that the
number of inhabitants can be but very small;[157] even the
sea-shore, where the abundance of fish would render the means of
subsistence so easy to be attained, seemed totally neglected; not a
hut or boat of any kind was to be seen throughout its whole extent—a
strong proof of the thinness of the population, and of the country
near the coast being destitute of the material requisite for
constructing these necessaries. The few inhabitants probably belong
to the Saumalie tribe, whose limits of residence are said to extend
to the line. We did not remark any inlets or traces of rivers on
this coast.
Note 3 (p. 467). A little north of Cape Bassas is a hill, or long
ridge, of an uncommon red colour, and along the land from it to the
Cape itself are a number of white sand hillocks which form excellent
marks to vessels approaching it from the northward and eastward.
Note 4 (p. 468). From the information afterwards received the Doara
seems to be an inconsiderable stream.
Note 5 (p. 470). We afterwards discovered these to be really
islands, and the commencement of the chain which extends beyond
Patta.
Note 6 (p. 471). The opinion upon which the existence of this
supposed river rests[158] is founded on certain accounts transmitted
some time ago to the Governor of Bombay by the late Captain David
Seton, the Company’s resident at Muscat. This communication states
the information to have been obtained from some people of
respectability in that place, who were well acquainted with the part
of the African coast in question. The substance of this detail is as
follows:—‘That a river of immense extent, known to the natives in
its neighbourhood by the appellation of the Neelo (Nilo), and said
to have its source in common with the Egyptian river of that name,
discharges itself in the Indian Ocean, in about 0° 5′ N. lat.; near
to its mouth it is called Govind Khala. That the length of its
course is about three months’ journey; and nine weeks’ journey from
the mouth stands a large city named Gunamma,[159] up to which, the
river being navigable, immense quantities of slaves, elephants’
teeth, &c., are brought down within a short distance of Brava, to
which (the river then taking a more southerly direction) these
articles of merchandise are afterwards carried overland, and either
disposed of there, or sent to Zanzibar.’ This story, though
sufficiently plausible, would of itself, considering the known
credulity and extreme propensity to exaggeration prevalent among the
natives of the East, be entitled to very little regard did it not
happen to receive some countenance from Herodotus, the Grecian
historian, who says that when in Egypt he was told that a branch of
the Nile bearing the same name took an easterly course, and was
supposed to fall into the Indian Ocean, somewhere on the coast of
East Africa.[160] These taken together were strong, but still left
ample room to believe that the river called by the Portuguese Dos
Fuegos, and known to us by the name of the Rogues River, which
disembogues itself in 0° 17′ S. lat., might eventually turn out to
be the same with this African Nile,[161]—22 miles the difference
between their supposed mouths, being an error which people such as
those of Muscat, unaccustomed to make accurate observations, may
easily be supposed to fall into. It may here be seen that the truth
of this surmise respecting the identity of the two rivers has been
clearly established, though it will hereafter appear, from the
information received at Patta, that the source of this river, viz.
Dos Fuegos, will still be found to agree with and authenticate the
reports and conjectures derived from the above authority,—and at all
events cannot fail to render it an object of interest and curiosity
to the civilized world in general.
Note 7 (p. 474). Or rather to the island on which Patta and Sieull
stand, called Peer Patta.
Note 8 (p. 474). This town is by the natives called Humoo.
Note 9 (p. 476). Amounting in value to better than Rs 300.
Note 10 (p. 479). His cousin was at this moment held in confinement
in a dungeon close to the residence of this cruel and usurping
relation, for it seems Ben Baneeci had a prior claim to the
Sultanship.
Note 11 (p. 481). The people of Patta (besides their civil
dissensions) were at this time at war with Lamo, an island a few
miles to the southward, whose boats were continually on the look-out
to attack those of Patta. The Sooltan made this also a motive for
detaining us under the pretence of preparing an armed boat to
conduct us back to the ship; but we saw through his civility, and
evaded it by telling him we had arms, and could defend ourselves.
Patta has no trade at present; it used formerly to be resorted to
for cowries (a small shell current as money in Bengal), but of late
years this trade has been discontinued.
Note 12 (p. 484). Within this bay on the S.W. side stood the ancient
city of Melinda, the site of which, in crossing the mouth of the
bay, we were at too great a distance to see.
Note 13 (p. 485). These must, therefore, have been the rocks
mentioned by Captain Bissel in his memoir on which the Leopard,
Admiral Blankett’s flag-ship, struck (Feb. 15, 1799, on a voyage to
the Red Sea), when bearing up to Zanzibar after a fruitless attempt
to beat up this coast during the N.E. monsoon. The mosque, however,
or pagoda, as he calls it, is by no means a good sea-mark, as no
ship ought to go so close as to make it sufficiently conspicuous. A
much better are two hills to the N.W.; they are considerably higher
than any near them, and, in consequence, easily known. The two hills
are close together, and only partially divided by a shallow notch
resembling a woman’s breast in form.
Note 14 (p. 486). The River Quiliffa is in S. lat. 3° 26′, and in
long. (by means of several good observations) 39° 26′ E.
Note 15 (p. 488). The Expedition sailed from Bombay on the 2nd
January, 1811.
Note 16 (p. 488). There is also a group at the east end of the
island.
Note 17 (p. 489). The only one of this group of islands that has no
wood on it.
Note 18 (p. 491). This tree is by the natives of Hindostan called
Brosh, and bears a large oval fruit with a smooth skin, but neither
it nor the wood of the tree is of any use. (Editor’s note: the best
is now worth £14 to £15 per ton.)
Note 19 (p. 491). Variation 8° W.
Note 20 (p. 493). Cocoa-nuts (of which the island produces vast
quantities) are also exported to Malabar, and also wax and
tortoise-shell.
Note 21 (p. 493). Dried salted shark and other fish, and ghee, are
brought in considerable quantities from Socotra; likewise chinaware,
earthen jars, and toys and ornaments from Surat.
Note 22 (p. 496). I do not give this as information to be depended
on.
Note 23 (p. 497). The Galla are in their persons exactly similar to
the west-coast negroes.
Note 24 (p. 499). The sugar-cane grows in great plenty, but the
inhabitants are ignorant of the art of making sugar.
Note 25 (p. 500). Monkeys are also found on the island, with foxes
and wild hogs, &c.
Note 26 (p. 500). Rice and ghee can be procured in considerable
quantities, but it will be found expensive for strangers to provide
any great supply of those articles.
Note 27 (p. 502). This, I think, must be an error. Five thousand is
more probable,—the person who gave me the information being rather
given to exaggeration.
Note 28 (p. 508). No revenue collected by the Imaum.
Note 29 (p. 508). Ibid.
Note 30 (p. 508). Camels numerous, at about 5 dollars each.
THE END.
------------------------------------
JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Transcriber’s Note
Place names are often spelled differently, usually by employing (or
not) a hyphen. Where there is no other instance of a given variant,
the other more common version is adopted; otherwise, the spelling
stands here as printed.
Errors deemed most likely to be the printer’s have been corrected,
and are noted here. The references are to the page and line in the
original.
8.1 the tall tower of Fort Chak-[c/C]hak Replaced.
32.3 called by contemporary historians, ‘Zimbas[’]: Inserted.
62.19 [(]This appears to be Added.
86.8 and the dead[’], Added.
105.94 the Jongolia[-]ni promontory. Inserted.
142.27 turned into a verb, e.g. ‘ba-yatafaggazú[’], Inserted.
146.12 used as kilts [(]Mkifu) by the Wamasai Inserted.
168.23 from geograp[h]ical work Inserted.
183.5 wird zum Besten der Menschheit.[’] Removed.
277.4 des pièces de mâture[’] Added.
344.26 without cramp[ s/s ]or convulsions Shifted
space.
356.3 or fish w[ie/ei]rs Transposed.
370.23 Eastern Intertropical Africa[.] Restored.
373.20 with a deta[t]chment to capture a gun Removed.
415.17 and hippo[po]tamus’ teeth Inserted.
450.38 at [6 ]p.m., 85°. Added.
455.17 [52/25] Temperature of air at sunrise Transposed.
469.16 taken at 8 P.M. 60° 55[″/′]. Replaced.
476.16 carrying with[ with] us a present Removed.
481.22 No fruit except the co[o]coa-nut Removed.
494.27 They are in general pur[s/c]hased Replaced.