Hotel of the Baths, Ostend. Dear Molly,--This is the first blessed
moment of quiet I've had since I quitted home; and even now there's the
_table d'hôte_ of sixty-two in the next room, and a brass band in the
lobby, with, to be sure, the noisiest set of wretches as waiters ever
I heard, shouting, screaming, knife-jingling, plate-crashing, and
cork-drawing, till my head is fairly turned with the turmoil. The
expense is cruel, besides,--eighteen francs a day for the rooms,
although James sleeps in the _salon_; and if you saw the bed,--his
father swears it was a mignonette-box in one of the windows! The eating
is beautiful; that must be allowed. Two soups, three fishes, five roast
chickens, and a piece of veal, stewed with cherries; a dish of chops
with chiccory, and a meat-pie garnished with cock's-combs,--you maybe
sure I didn't touch them; after them there was a carp, with treacle, and
a big plate of larks and robins, with eggs of the same, all round. Then
came the heavy eating: a roast joint of beef, with a batter-pudding, and
a turkey stuffed with chestnuts, ducks ditto, with olives and onions,
and a mushroom tart, made of grated chickens and other condiments. As
for the sweets, I don't remember the half of them, nor do I like to try,
for poor dear James got a kind of surfeit, and was obliged to go to bed
and have a doctor,--a complaint, they tell me, mighty common among the
English on first coming abroad. He was a nice man, and only charged five
francs. I wish you 'd tell Peter Belton that; for though we subscribe a
pound a year to the dispensary, Mr. Peter thinks to get six shillings
a visit every time he comes over to Dodsborough,--a pleasant ride of
eleven miles,--and sure of something to eat, besides; and now that
I think of it, Molly, 'tis what's called the learned professions in
Ireland is eating us all up,--the attorneys, the doctors, the parsons.
Look at them abroad: Mr. Krauth, a remarkably nice man, and a consul,
told me, last night, that for two-and-sixpence of our money you 'd have
the best advice, law or medical, the Continent affords; and even that
same is a comfort!
The _table d' hôte_ is not without some drawbacks, however, my dear
Molly, for only yesterday I caught an officer, the Brigadier of the
Gendarmerie they call him, throwing sly glances at Mary Anne across the
table. I mentioned it to K. I., but like all fathers that were a little
free-and-easy when young, he said, "Pooh! nonsense, dear. 'Tis the way
of foreigners; you'll get used to it at last." We dined to-day in our
own room; and just to punish us, as I suppose, they gave us a scrag of
mutton and two blue-legged chickens; and by the bill before me,--for I
have it made up every day,--I see "_dîner particulier_" put down five
francs a head, and the _table d'hôte_ is for two!
K. I. was in a blessed passion, and cursed my infernal prudery, as he
called it. To be sure, I did n't know it was to cost us a matter of
fifteen francs. And now he 's gone off to the _café_, and Mary Anne is
crying in her own room, while Caroline is nursing James; for, to tell
you the truth, Betty Cobb is no earthly use to us; and as for Paddy
Byrne, 't is bailing him out of the police-office and paying fines for
him we are, all day.
We 'll scarcely save much this first quarter, for what with travelling
expenses and the loss of my trunk,--I believe I told you that some
villain carried away the yellow valise, with the black satin trimmed
with blonde, and the peach-colored "gros de Naples," and my two elegant
ball-dresses, one covered with real Limerick lace,--these losses, and
the little contingencies of the road, will run away with most of our
economies; but if we live we learn, and we 'll do better afterwards.
I never expected it would be all pure gain, Molly; but is n't it worth
something to see life,--to get one's children the polish and refinement
of the Continent, to teach them foreign tongues with the real accent,
to mix in the very highest circles, and learn all the ways of people of
fashion? Besides, Dodsborough was dreadful; K. I. was settling down to
a common farmer, and in a year or two more would never have asked any
higher company than Purcell and Father Maher; as for James, he was
always out with the greyhounds, or shooting, or something of the kind;
and lastly, you saw yourself what was going on between Peter Belton and
Mary Anne!... She might have had the pride and decency to look higher
than a Dispensary doctor. I told her that her mother's family was
McCarthys, and, indeed, it was nothing but the bad times ever made me
think of Kenny Dodd. Not that I don't think well of poor Peter, but
sure it's hard to dress well, and keep three horses, and make a decent
appearance on less than eighty pounds a year,--not to talk of a wife at
all!
I hope you 'll get Christy into the Police; they are just the same as
the Hussars, and not so costly. Be sure that you send off the two trunks
to Ostend with the first sailing-vessel from Limerick; they'll only cost
one-and-fourpence a cubic foot, whatever that is, and I believe they 'll
come just as speedy as by steam. I 'm sorry for poor Nancy Doran; she
'll be a loss to us in the dairy; but maybe she 'll recover yet. How
can you explain Brindled Judy not being in calf? I can scarce believe
it yet. If it be true, however, you must sell her at the spring fair.
Father Maher had a conceit out of her. Try if he is disposed to give ten
pounds, or guineas,--guineas if you can, Molly.
There's no curing that rash in Caroline's face, and it's making her
miserable. I 've lost Peter's receipt; and it was the only thing stopped
the itching. Try and get a copy of it from him; but say it's for Betty
Cobb.
I was interrupted, my dear Molly, by a visit from a young gentleman
whose visiting-card bears the name of Victor de Lancy, come to ask after
James,--a very nice piece of attention, considering that he only met
us once at the _table d'hôte_. He and Mary Anne talked a great deal
together; for, as he does n't speak English, I could only smile and
say "We-we" occasionally. He's as anxious about James as if he was his
brother, and wanted to sit up the night with him; though what use would
it be? for poor J. does n't know a word of French yet. Mary Anne tells
me that he 's a count, and that his family was very high under the
late King; but it's dreadful to hear him talk of Louis Philippe and
the Orleans branch. He mentioned, too, that they set spies after him
wherever he goes; and, indeed, Mary Anne saw a gendarme looking up at
the window all the time he was with us.
He spent two hours and a half here; and I must say, Molly, foreigners
have a wonderful way of ingratiating themselves with one: we felt,
when he was gone away, as if we knew him all our life. Don't pay any
attention to Mat, but sell the fruit, and send me the money; and as for
Bandy Bob, what's the use of feeding him now we 're away? Take care that
the advertisement about Dodsborough is in the "Mail" and the "Packet"
every week: "A Residence fit for a nobleman or gentleman's family,--most
extensive out-offices, and two hundred acres of land, more if required,"
ought to let easy! To be sure, it's in Ireland, Molly; that's the worst
of it There is n't a little bit of a lodging here on the sands, with
rush-bottom chairs and a painted table, doesn't bring fifty francs a
week!
I must conclude now, for it's nigh post-hour. Be sure you look after
the trunks and the pony. Never mind sending the Limerick paper; it costs
three sous, and has never anything new. K. I. sees the "Times" at the
rooms, and they give all the outrages just as well as the Irish papers.
By the way, who was the Judkin Delaney that was killed at Bruff? Sure it
is n't the little creature that collected the county-cess: it would be a
disgrace if it was; he was n't five foot high!
Tell Father Maher to send me a few threatening lines for Betty Cobb;
'tis nothing but the priest's word will keep her down.
Your most affectionate friend,