CRYSTAL CAVE CONCLUDED.
According to agreement the guide again met us at the station on the
following morning, for another day in the cave, which we entered with no
unnecessary loss of time, and hurrying through the main entrance
passage, Government Room and Statuary Hall, went down Beaver Slide,
which, on the previous day, we had passed to enter Rocky Run. Our
descent into the crevice took us past those portions known as Suspension
Bridge and Rebecca's Well, and over some very "rough country" to the
most wonderful parts of the cave. Numerous passages open out in various
directions; one to rooms of frost work of great beauty; another to the
Ribbon Room where the drip deposits on the walls are in ribbon-like
stripes of red, yellow, and white, while others yet are ways to the
Catacombs. And it is the Catacombs we particularly wish to see, as they
most perfectly represent the individual character of the cave and have,
as yet, received no injury from either time or man; but is a region as
difficult to travel as the way of the transgressor, and many miles can
be traversed with no prospect of coming to the end. But where locomotion
is so slow and painful, the owner of a pedometer would find that
instrument a discouraging companion and soon learn better than to
consult its record publicly.
The Catacombs are a series of connected fissures and small crevices in
which every inch of exposed surface is covered with clear, translucent,
almost transparent, calcite crystals, neither coated with lime nor
stained with clay; nor even is the pearly lustre dimmed with the
slightest trace of dust. The crystals are very sharp and of all sizes,
ranging from half an inch to three and a half inches in length, the
larger sizes being conspicuously abundant. The entire region is an
enormously large, perfectly formed, and undamaged geode. In reality, the
whole cave is a great cluster of connected geodes, and a similar work
probably does not exist, but if it does, has never been discovered. The
fissures from which it is formed were opened by volcanic violence and
then enlarged, and afterwards decorated by the varied power of water, in
action or repose.
When the storms toward the close of the Tertiary period suddenly
overwhelmed with floods the dense growth of tropical vegetation and
multitudinous animal life in the Northwest, the waters necessarily
became heavily charged with the naturally resulting carbonic acid gas,
and this, acting on the limestone rocks, would decompose them, leaving a
residual clay and taking the chief portions of the mineral components in
solution, to be afterwards deposited according to circumstances and
conditions; and these are indicated by the various results found in Wind
Cave, Crystal Cave, the Onyx Caves and the Bad Lands. The latter being
previous to that time by no means "bad," but richly luxuriant in
tropical vegetation, which gave shelter from the heat to great numbers
of curious animals.
Some approximate idea of the extreme age of these caves may be gained
from the fact that bones of a three-toed horse have been discovered in a
chamber of Crystal Cave that must be practically unchanged since the
remains were carried in from the outside, as otherwise they would have
been buried beneath the fallen masses of crystal covered rock with which
the entire floor is cumbered. And yet this room is so remote from any
present connection with the outer world that it is impossible for their
introduction to have taken place in recent times.
In the beautiful Catacombs progress is as slow as in a cactus thicket or
a blackberry patch. The crevices lack none of the usual crevice
irregularities; high places must be mounted or descended, chasms crossed
and narrow passages crawled through, while extra caution must be
exercised to avoid striking the head or making a misstep that might
result in a fall. The hands are in constant use and soon become so
sensitive that holding a soft handkerchief gives infinite relief; but
the worst experience is the "crawls" where only the soles of the feet,
being temporarily turned up, seem safe from the savage treatment of the
sharp calcite dog-teeth. The worst crawl encountered was a small one
having a downward slope with a jump-off at the end which necessitated
its being taken feet first. Fortunately it was short. But in no place do
the difficulties outweigh the pleasure of beholding scenes of such
beauty, or suggest regret for the time, torn garments, and personal
exertion required for its enjoyment.
In many portions of the cave the surface layer of crystals has had the
points worn away by the action of water, later than that in which they
were formed; but in the Catacombs and other extensive regions as well,
the finished work of crystallization is preserved in an absolutely
perfect condition. And everywhere the largest crystals are on the under
side of a projection or the roof of a cavity.
As the day was passing far too rapidly and many points of special
interest yet remained unseen, we turned with reluctance from the beauty
and relief from the hardships of exploration in the Catacombs, and made
our way over a crevice into Santa Claus' Pass, which was traversed for
a considerable distance and then abandoned for a low crawl terminating
at the Senate Chamber. This is a large room extending to Poverty Flat,
and is brilliantly red and purely white, most of the crystal presenting
a smooth surface. Under the Senate Chamber there is said to be some fine
box work which we had no time to visit. The name of this chamber was
given by a visiting party composed of members of both houses of
Congress. A smaller room, which is really an extension of the Senate
Chamber, has handsome walls of white and red box work on account of
which the same distinguished party called it the Senate Post-office.
From here a difficult crawl, through red rock, well-worn by the action
of water, leads to the Starr Chamber, another large room in white and
red, and named by Senator Starr of South Dakota.
Opening out from the last room is a curious, dangerous looking, narrow,
crevice-chamber known as Suicide Room on account of the threatening
appearance of over-hanging rocks, some of which have at times fallen in
great masses of various sizes to form an irregular floor; and a descent
of this is necessary in order to reach a short and extremely rough
crawl, beautifully and painfully decorated with sharp crystals above and
below and on the sides. From this we emerge into Rainy Chamber, an
elliptical room not less than two hundred feet long by one hundred feet
wide, with a tent-like ceiling rising high in the center and sloping
down to meet the floor, which also slopes irregularly toward a deep
central depression, giving the room a greater height than any other
visited. The high points are generally seen in the narrow crevices,
while the rooms of generous length and breadth are usually low, many of
the largest having an average of five feet or even less.
Although there is frequent intersection of crevices, and each chamber
has passages leading out on every side, the general direction of the
cave is said to be northwest-southeast.
Rainy Chamber is named from the fact that during the early months of
summer water falls constantly in the form of a light shower; but it
drips at all times, and in consequence there is an opportunity to study
the active process of formation of one of the deposits which is very
abundant in Wind Cave and considered the most perplexing. This is the
pop-corn, and the theories of its origin have been steadily rejected at
Wind Cave because of a doubt being entertained as to whether it has been
deposited under water or by drippings. Here in Rainy Chamber it is fully
explained. Near the center of the room the fallen masses are heavily
crystallized, much of the groundwork being fine box work and the
crystals in perfect condition. On these crystals the pop-corn is being
formed, and specimens can be seen in all stages of development, from the
beginning to an approximate degree of finish; and whatever the position
it occupies on the receiving surface, either on top, underneath, or on a
side exposure, it always maintains the same relative position as growing
plants on the mundane sphere. The water falling on the upper surface in
scattering drops forms myriads of minute stalagmites; on side positions
the falling drop first strikes the point exposed to its line of descent
and then spreads. The scant moisture slowly makes its way down sloping
sides and shelving edges, leaving on each small irregularity a tiny
portion of its volume, to deposit an infinitely small charge of solid
substance, and the balance finally hangs in moisture less than drops on
the growing grains of the under surface.
Pop-corn, therefore, is the globular aragonite of the stalagmitic
variety. A small specimen from Rainy Chamber, placed beside one of the
same color from Wind Cave, shows them to be absolutely alike.
Rainy Chamber is the room in which the bones of the three-toed horse,
already referred to, were found, but their presence has not yet been
explained; therefore the case is open to conjecture and several
theories may be advanced and their values considered. The first question
when such a discovery is made, is whether the living animal was possibly
a cave-dweller; which, as the horse was not, is quickly disposed of and
attention turned to the next, the possibility of a carniverous animal
having carried his prey into the dark recesses of the cave in order that
the enjoyment of his dinner might be undisturbed. This theory is equally
unavailable by reason of the topographical features presented. If the
present natural entrance to the cave were the only way into this room
from the outside, the distance was too great and beset with many
difficulties; besides which the final passage is too small to admit an
animal of sufficient size to carry any considerable portion of even a
very small horse. But if at that period the room had direct
communication with the outside through an opening since closed, the
shape of the walls indicate that it must have been a pot-hole in the
roof, and through this an animal could have entered by falling, which
the horse and others may have done. But it seems most probable that the
remains were carried in by the water through such a hole before it was
closed at the beginning of the Quaternary period, when the erosion of
the Hills was most active.
Rainy Chamber also contains a large and beautiful assortment of the
small polished and coated pebbles called cave pearls.
The guide being anxious that we should not fail to see the Niagara Room,
we now turned toward a low, broad opening in the wall, a short distance
to the right of the entrance, where the rising floor and descending
ceiling, failing to meet, had overlapped; so we made our way up a steep,
smooth bank, and then down on the other side over a broken, rocky
surface for a distance of about twenty feet, when the roof at last
joined the floor and two small water-worn holes at the point of junction
revealed an untempting passage within. The broader of these holes was
three feet, but too low to be considered an entrance; the other was
round but certainly not so large as our guide, who was preparing to
enter it with doubts of his ability to make the trip, on account of
having increased in size since his one entrance there, on which occasion
two smaller guides pulled him through the tightest places. Carefully
comparing his size with that of the hole he sat beside, there was no
possibility of doubt that if the attempt were made he would stick fast,
and that would place our little party in dire straits. Consequently I
insisted that it should not be, but he was unwilling that Niagara should
be missed when so near. Finally I positively refused to go unless he
would consent to give us instructions and remain where he was while we
went without him, to which he at last yielded with extreme
unwillingness. He had frequently shown us the guide's marks, and now
earnestly cautioned me to advance only as they point, and turn back if
they should fail.
The small nephew went on a reconnoitering expedition to the end of the
passage, and reported that the jump-off there was higher than himself
but he could get down. I now crawled through the hole and found the
passage to be a "crawl" or rather a "sprawl," from fifteen to eighteen
inches high, but having an ample width varying from three to six feet.
The smooth, straight floor has a steep downward inclination and is
thickly covered with dust.
Having reached the widest portion, which is near the end, Herbert
directed me to turn, so as to come down the jump-off feet first, where
there was a little difficulty in landing, as the perpendicular wall,
which proved to be almost five feet high, offered only one projecting
help, and that within a few inches of the base; but in obedience to his
advice to "reach one foot a little farther down and then drop," I
advanced the right one, to be told not that, but the other, and was soon
down where it was possible to observe with interest that the right foot
had been swinging above an open fissure. We stood in a wide crevice
running at right angles to the obnoxious passage we had just quit, and
immediately found a guide's mark on a large rock, and others followed at
intervals of a few feet over extremely "rough country" as the guides
say. Everywhere the work of water was apparent, not in the crystal
deposits of still water as in other portions of the cave, but the
erosion due to its rushing through. Carefully following the marks, they
led into a cross-crevice that took us under Rainy Chamber, and ends
there by widening into a circular chamber of about fifty feet width in
either direction, and rising to a height of nearly fifty feet in a fine
dome. Down the wall from near the top of the dome there appears to flow
a beautiful waterfall showing a variety of colors in the straight lines,
as if from refraction. The fall is, of course, dripstone, and I knew we
had found Niagara, although we had gone beyond the reach of the guide's
voice almost at the start. A huge rock directly under the dome has
received the falling drip until it represents a mountain cataract. These
deposits testify to the great age of the chamber they adorn, as they
were necessarily not commenced until all heavy flow ceased, and in
Crystal Cave the accumulation of dripstone is so slow that it is said
six years' observation can detect no increase whatever.
Several small passages at the floor level gave exit to the great volume
of water that evidently at one time entered this crevice, from Rainy
Chamber, by the route we followed, and being checked in its course the
lower end of the crevice became filled, under pressure; and the low
position of the outlets gave this water a whirling motion that in time
excavated the dome-shaped room.
No part of Crystal Cave has ever been occupied by a river, but its
fissures, opened by the violence of earth movements accompanying nearby
volcanic disturbances, have been filled more than once by the inrush of
waters which repeatedly submerged the whole Black Hills region.
Following again the marks which guided us into Niagara Room, we soon
came within hailing distance of a voice expressive of profound relief;
and as we crawled up the sloping passage, over-heated and breathless
with the exertion, the guide assured us he was most truly thankful to
see us again, as he had never in his life experienced so severe a scare
as since it had occurred to him that we had gone beyond the limits of
communication without a single match.
He also said I had been where no lady had ever gone before, and took
satisfaction in the fact that many men have refused to make the venture
with a guide.
Leaving this portion of the cave, by returning as we came, through
Suicide Room, Starr Chamber, and Senate Chamber, we crawled along the
rocks overhanging a narrow fissure, to reach a ladder at the end, by
which we descended to another part of the Catacombs. Here, after
traveling a long distance over uneven floors covered with sharp
crystals, as were all surfaces, through large, low rooms, and narrow,
crooked passages, constantly assisting the difficult advance with our
hands, like monkeys, we finally came to The Grotto, which is probably
the most remarkable room in this very remarkable cave. It is a large
room, with much of the irregular ceiling so low that even the small
nephew struck his head severely while turning to warn me, as he often
did, of threatening inequalities in the floor and light them with his
own candle. The crystals here are exceptionally fine, being very sharp
and of unusual size, besides many of them being double--that is, pointed
at both ends. Through this beautiful ceiling there is a percolating drip
adding stalactites to the crystal-points and piling stalagmites on the
crystal masses below, varying this with imitation cascades, mats of
small flowers, and masses of pop-corn. Off to one side in a kind of
recess there is a depression in the crystal floor filled with clear,
cold water.
A glance at the time now showed us to be in danger of failure to meet
the train to town, and consequently, tired as we were after nine hours
of rough travel and much climbing, it was necessary to make our way out
with more speed than comfort, and we found the weather turning very
cold. The cave was carefully locked, preparations for the train
hurriedly made, the house closed, and as we left it the train could be
heard coming down the cañon, but we arrived at the station first, though
breathless, and a few minutes later were in Piedmont, too tired to
properly enjoy a hot venison supper.
As to the size of Crystal Cave, it is impossible to make any positive
statement; for as Mr. McBride, the proprietor, says, no survey has yet
been made. Other persons said that thirty-six miles is the greatest
claim made for the combined length of all passages, and sixteen miles
the least, so it may be wise to accept the lesser number until a survey
proves it wrong.
The box work in Crystal Cave is not of such great abundance as to demand
special attention, but is very beautiful, and one variety deserves
particular mention. These boxes have been formed in dark red sandstone,
and after being emptied of their original contents, have been completely
filled with colorless calcite crystals, and over this is spread an outer
surface of the same crystals tinted a brilliant flame color by red
paint-clay having been taken in solution by the crystal forming waters.
A specimen of this was a temptation too great to be resisted even in the
owner's absence.
Some of the box work is of such size that a single box may have a
capacity equal to that of a bushel measure, but it is less beautiful
than the smaller forms.
On the following morning we left Piedmont, and having a desire for
greater personal knowledge of the Hills, took the same train which had
taken us to the cave, and traveled to its western terminus, Lead City.
The interesting scenery makes this a desirable trip for any one visiting
the Hills, but its beauty is chiefly massed at the ends, the middle
distance being over gradually rising ground, which is without a
counterpart of the rocky cañon left behind or more than a suggestion of
the high hills yet to come. The special charm of this portion was the
magnificent pine forest which covered it until three years ago, when it
was swept by a terrible fire, from which the settlers escaped with only
their lives; and even that would have been impossible if the railroad
company had not kept refuge trains waiting for them just ahead of the
flames. The prominent geological feature here is the porphyry dikes,
which are becoming more numerous and more prominent, and in many places
resemble a conspicuous group near Harney Peak, called The Needles. These
dykes are of special interest in connection with a study of the caves,
since they are probably of simultaneous origin.
The same volcanic movements that caused the violent upheaval of the
whole region, and thrust up molten masses through the strata to form a
central core to the Hills, must also have rent the nearby regions with
fissures through which probably much gas escaped, and having been
further opened and then adorned, now demand our attention as caves of
unique and curious beauty.
The approach to Lead is over the hill-tops with a magnificent distant
view, and the first glimpses of that young city famous for having as a
center the Homestake mine, the largest gold mine in the world, are
charming. It is situated far down in a valley among the high hills and
spreads some distance up the surrounding slopes.
The works of the great mine are wonderful, and visitors welcome to
examine whatever they find interesting; any questions they wish to ask
are graciously answered, although every one is busy. This is not a
special favor to the exceptional few, but the courtesy shown to all.
Visitors are also welcome to descend into the mine, but as an attendant
is necessary on account of dangers to be avoided, a permit must be
obtained at the office.
Several other caves have been discovered in the Black Hills, the largest
of which is the Davenport Cave at Sturgis. Very little exploration has
yet been done in it, but indications are said to be that it will take
rank among the large ones.
At Galena, a new mining town of golden promise, there is reported to be
an Ice Cave, where ice forms at all seasons, and during the warm weather
is a source of comfort and pleasure to the miners.
In the evening, as train time for continuing the homeward journey
approached, the snow storm which began gently early in the afternoon,
grew steadily more severe. A carriage to the depot was not to be had, as
every vehicle in town had gone to the funeral of an old-timer in the
Hills and the return delayed by the storm. The situation could not be
regarded as a special pleasure, but cave hunters learn to accept
whatever is and be thankful for the general average. At the last moment,
however, a team was driven up and permission given us to make use of it.
It proved to be the private conveyance of the hotel proprietor, and the
young boy who accompanied us, his son.
Our train was on time, and the ride through the Hills to their southern
limit, in the falling snow, was wonderfully beautiful; but the storm
continued for many days and was one of the most severe on record.
Those persons who have been so unfortunate as to permit themselves to
accept a ready made opinion of dangers and roughness to be met with in
the more newly settled regions, might find a tour of the Hills doubly
interesting by making a supplementary study of "The Living Age," which
cannot be so correctly viewed from a distance as is sometimes supposed,
since the specimens exhibited are not always a true average of the
strata they are supposed to represent.