THE ONYX CAVES.
Northwest of Hot Springs there is a group of three onyx caves, the
distance to them being estimated at from seven to ten miles, if the
party does not get lost, which is the usual fate of those who dispense
with the service of a driver familiar with the country. In going, the
longer way, over the hill-tops, claims a preference on account of
distant views with a favorable light. When the Onyx Cave Ranch is
reached its scenery is found to be charming, with an ideal log house
overlooking the cañon, and itself overlooked by the rising slope of the
wooded hill. The entrance to the cave is in the opposite wall of the
cañon, and is covered by a small cabin, at the door of which the view
demands a pause for admiration; then the party disappears down a narrow,
rough, sloping passage of sufficient height for comfort to none but know
the value of comparative degrees. It soon appeared, however, that
personal comfort would travel only a short distance. The mud increased
with every step, and in its midst was a small hole through which it was
necessary to pass to the next lower level. This hole being so small and
its walls slanting, the only way to accomplish the first half of the
descent was to sit down in the mud and slide, stopping half way to
examine a fine ledge of beautiful striped onyx, white and a brownish
pink, the first outcrop in the cave, but in the next level it is seen in
rich abundance and variety; the colors being red, black and white, brown
in several shades and pure white. All are handsome and of commercial
quality and hardness; and just above them is a ledge of fine blue
marble.
The next chamber is called the Bad Lands, on account of a certain
resemblance to that desolate region. The way into it is through the
Devil's Corkscrew, a most uninviting passage because it stands on end
and is about twelve feet deep with circular, perpendicular walls
discouragingly free of prominent irregularities; but careful study
reveals a few available crags and rough edges, by which the descent is
made. Fortunately the party decreased in size just within the entrance.
Climbing up into a hole in the wall of this room, with no little
difficulty, the Aerial Lake is the reward of a breathless upward
struggle, and a satisfying one. The Lake is very small, but under its
clear surface can be seen numerous growing deposits of calcite, while
the roof of onyx gleams with a mass of small white stalactites.
Returning again to the main route and traveling to the end of a short
passage we beheld the entrance to Red Hall, a piece of rope ladder
dangling half way down a perpendicular wall, the other half having no
help whatever. The way was clear so far as the length of the ladder, and
with trust in the future soon learned in cave work that distance was at
once passed, and sitting on the very narrow ledge to cogitate on the
possibility of further progress, Mr. Sidey solved the problem by
suggesting, rather doubtfully, that the easiest way would be to drop off
and allow him to interrupt the fall. This method had twice proved the
only means of advance in Wind Cave and can be termed rapid transit. The
walls of Red Hall are of stratified limestone variegated with patches of
red rock, and clay of the same gay hue. It is the highest chamber in the
cave and probably the largest. A hole in the wall at the floor level,
near the entrance to the passage beyond, gives a glimpse of the cave
river flowing on a slightly lower level, not over two feet below the
floor we stand on. The water is said to have a depth of fifteen feet,
and a rock thrown in gave back the sound of a splash into water not
shallow. Entering the passage already referred to, its dimensions
decreased to a crawl and then to a squeeze, so that most of its length
was taken in a very humble position, which permitted no regard to be
paid to the ample mud or little pools of water that must be serenely
dragged through as if carrying them away were an agreeable privilege.
Even a muddy passage ends in time, and at last we gained a standing
point and after a short climb were in Fairies' Palace, a marvel of
dainty beauty, and worthy of the distasteful trip just taken. We stood
in a narrow passage that divided the small chamber like the central
aisle of a cathedral, above which the white roof formed a Gothic arch
from which depended countless little stalactites and draperies, while on
either side, six feet above the passage, was a floor of onyx supporting
exquisite columns of which the highest are not more than three feet.
Only a short distance from the Fairies' Palace is the almost equally
beautiful Ethereal Hall, and connecting the two I had the pleasure to
discover a small arched passage more beautiful than either.
[Illustration: Fairies' Palace. Page 165.]
Although much of the cave was still not visited, the long drive to town
demanded a return to the surface, but several stops were made on the way
to admire masses of onyx and groups of curious forms in deposits of that
fine stone. One high, crooked chimney above the Corkscrew is especially
fine and correspondingly difficult for a grown person weighted down with
garments dripping mud and water; but Kimball Stone, our boy friend,
scampered up like a squirrel.
Two of the Onyx Caves had not been seen at all and Mr. Sidey expressed
special regret on account of the latest discovery as no woman had ever
yet entered it; but the sun was low in the west and the road had some
dangerous points that must be passed before dark, so the reeking skirt
was removed and without waiting to dry by the great fire kindled for the
purpose we hurried off, promising to return if possible, and carrying
treasures in specimens, besides an ancient lemon, which may not be
called a fossil, since soft substances are said not to fossilize; but
however that may be, this is a perfect lemon whose particles have been
replaced with the lasting rock in the same way as the numerous Cycad
trunks in the same region have been preserved to prove to us
conclusively that formerly the region flourished under tropical
conditions, and supported an abundant animal life of tropical nature and
habits.
Soon after leaving the ranch, we descended by a sort of goat-trail-road
into a grandly beautiful cañon, along the bed of which the road
continues until it flows out as the water did in ages gone. By this time
it had become quite dark, and the chill of the northwest night formed a
combination with saturated clothing that cannot be highly recommended as
a pleasure; but the natural chivalry which prompted our young escort to
insist on lending his own coat, and his evident disappointment that the
sacrifice was not allowed, afforded a pleasure that will continue.
THE WHITE ONYX CAVE.
A few days later it was convenient to return to the Onyx Cave ranch with
the special object of entering the newest cave, which could be done with
the assistance of seventy feet of rope. While necessary preparations
were pending, a walk up the cañon was proposed. At a distance of perhaps
a quarter of a mile above Onyx Cave evidence was seen of a very
remarkable form of ancient life. It is not the usual few bones but is a
cast in the rock of the cañon bed of an animal clothed in its flesh. The
appearance of the head, neck, body and wings is preserved, but the tail
and four limbs have been carried away by eroding waters which even now
have not quite forsaken the cañon. The containing stratum is not seen in
the cañon wall, and near the lower end of the cañon a fine white
sandstone crops out beneath. We ask: "Was the cañon cut to its full
depth while yet a Cretaceous sea was depositing beach-sand, and did the
earliest horse, with wings, appear at the close of that period? Or, did
an animal with fore limbs developed, retain its wings into Miocene time
and leave record of its life in an arm of the Tertiary lake?" The body
is that of a horse with wings attached to the shoulders. The head is
unlike that of a modern horse, being much shorter and more rounded, but
the parted lips give a glimpse of the teeth of a young horse. If only
the feet could be found, I feel assured they would prove that the
three-toed horse of ancient time, so abundantly in evidence throughout
this region, was possessed of wings and in some way furnished the idea
of Pegasus.
A few feet further down the cañon are a pair of twisted wings that show
the animal to have perished in company with its mate, while trying to
escape from a sudden flood that rushed down the cañon like a moving
wall.
After some uneasy discussion about the means of entering the new cave,
it was finally decided that the available rope was too short and not of
sufficient strength. This was, of course, a disappointment but not a
surprise, as a very peculiar quality in the rope used to enter caves of
this kind had come to notice before. The peculiarity is, that a rope
entirely above suspicion for the safety of a two hundred pound man, at
once weakens and must be condemned when threatened with one hundred
pounds of woman's weight, yet there is an implied compliment hidden
somewhere about this protective system that tends to reduce the sting of
disappointment.
So it was agreed to spend the afternoon in the White Onyx Cave, which is
generally spoken of simply as the Upper Cave because it occupies a
higher level than the Onyx Cave already described, and is supposed to be
an extension of the same although no connecting passage has been
discovered.
The accompanying friend had not been costumed for caving, but was
persuaded to accept a full suit of overalls, which needed the addition
of a pick and pipe to make the picture perfect. Unfortunately a snap
shot failed.
The entrance is in a perpendicular portion of the cañon wall, but a
narrow path that starts some distance away and appears in eminent danger
of falling off, makes most of the ascent comparatively easy; and the
balance is completed by a short ladder whose rounds dip toward the cañon
bed in a rather alarming manner, but this only proves the folly of
giving too much heed to appearances, for it is strong and firmly
fastened to the rocks.
Just within the entrance there is height sufficient for standing, but
the roof descends suddenly and the walls come near together, reducing
the passage to a crawl, and showing that in past times water poured in
at this opening and not out as might be supposed. The first chamber
entered is the Crystal Gallery, but it is so nearly filled with great
masses of pure white onyx no standing room remains. Drops of water on
portions of the onyx ceiling here are the only moisture remaining in
this cave. When Mac's[5] head came in contact with the roof he called to
the guide: "See here, little boy, you ought to sing out 'low bridge' at
that sort o' places, 'cause when I'm busy hunting a spot to set my foot
in, I can't see what my head's coming to, and I like to mined a lot o'
this rock with it."
Slowly, and with no danger and less comfort, we creep over, under and
between great massive beds of the fine white crystalline rock until at
length we enter the Ghost Chamber where no onyx has been deposited, but
where numerous mountain rats have evidently been at home for many years,
if we may judge from the enormous quantity of pine needles with which
they have carpeted the floor. The walls show small box work crumbling to
dust, and Ray climbed high into the chimney-like opening above our
heads, but reported that it ended suddenly and had no attractions to
offer.
Coming out, the way was somewhat varied, but more difficult, as the
passages through the onyx beds were more irregular and more nearly
closed; Onyx Hall being only a fair specimen of the marvelous results
achieved here by the persistent regularity of an uninterrupted but slow
drip, continued through hundreds of years.
[Illustration: White Onyx Masses. Page 170.]
[Illustration: Looking out of White Onyx Cave. Page 171.]
It is surprising that in all these heavy beds there is no line or
tint, or slightest trace of color anywhere, while the other Onyx Cave,
so near as to suggest connection, has a gorgeous variety of rich
coloring.
The view looking out from the entrance of White Onyx Cave is wonderfully
fine, and equally so whether the rain falls or the sun shines, a timely
shower giving us an opportunity to enjoy both.
Before leaving the ranch, a promise was made by Mr. Sidey to write a
short description of the other cave, which he kindly did, and it is here
given. He says:
"In trailing a deer I came across a hole on top of a long divide. On
throwing a rock down the opening, I could hear it rattling against the
walls until the sounds gradually died away, but there seemed to be no
bottom to the hole, and I resolved to come again prepared and make
explorations. After the snow had gone my twelve-year-old son, Ray, and
I, mounted on our trusty horses, Bonnie and Dee, equipped with ropes,
candles, hammers and a pocketful of matches, set out to explore the new
cave. It was a beautiful, bright spring morning, and after an hour's
hard climbing over fallen timber and rocks, we reached the summit of the
mountain. A search of half an hour revealed the opening which was barely
large enough to allow me to pass through.
"Fastening our ropes securely to a stout log rolled across the chasm, we
began to pay it out, and although we did not feel it touch bottom, I
started down to explore, the length of the rope at least. As I descended
I found the opening gradually widened out to eight or ten feet, a sort
of inverted funnel-shaped hole with irregular wall but smooth and
affording little footing. As I neared the bottom I saw the end of the
rope was within four feet of it, so I landed on terra firma and called
to Ray, 'All right, come down!'
"Lighting our candles we found ourselves standing on a mound of pure
onyx, and on looking around could see we were in an immense cavern,
whose walls sparkled and glittered as if studded with diamonds. Going
down twenty feet we found a smooth-floored room that measured three
hundred feet in length, twenty five feet in width, and thirty feet in
height. The walls were solid white onyx lined or banded with pink and
golden stripes. The ceiling was arched, and draped in fantastic shapes,
and hung with stalactites innumerable. The room was so large and the
drapery and festooning so delicate and beautiful, that we were filled
with awe and could not speak for a time.
"At last we started to further explore this wonderland. On going to the
farther end of the room we found a passage leading on. This we followed
for a hundred feet and found the whole cavern lined with onyx and
crystals clear as glass. After loading up with specimens we retraced our
steps and on reaching the large room we had first entered we heard a
roaring, rumbling noise. An awful noise truly, which filled us with an
unknown dread.
"On approaching the entrance we saw a stream of water pouring down,
completely filling the hole.
"For a moment we felt like rats caught in a trap, our only way of egress
occupied by a stream of water falling straight down seventy feet, and
then we wondered how long it would take to fill up the room.
"Suddenly the thought that there might be an outlet for the water gave
us new hope, so we went to see and sure enough we found a natural
water-course down through an opening we had overlooked. We gathered up
courage once more, and thought the best thing would be something to
occupy our time. So we set to work getting out more specimens and in a
couple of hours the water stopped running and we were ourselves once
more.
"Ray grasped the rope, which was soaking wet, and went up the seventy
feet, hand over hand, like a cat. I, being heavier, found it quite
different from going down. The rope played whip-cracker with me for some
time and before reaching the top I was covered with bruises. But
daylight never appeared so beautiful before.
"Here we found the cause of so much water. A cloud-burst had occurred on
the Divide and a large portion of it had poured down the passage way to
the cave.
"We found our horses patiently waiting for us and night closing in.
Mounting we rode rapidly home, resolved never to venture into this cave
again without leaving some one at the entrance to give warning in case
of danger.
"John F. Sidey."
The first specimen taken out was given to us on our first visit to the
ranch, and is pure white with a stripe of brilliant golden yellow.
Having been invited to give a name to this new find it seems quite
proper after reading the description of the deluge and seeing the bright
bands of color, and considering the hopeful promise of future
possibilities, to call it The Rainbow Cave.
FOOTNOTES:
[5] Colored driver.