CHAPTER XVI.

_SIAMESE CUSTOMS FOR THE DYING AND DEAD._

When a Buddhist prince or princess is at the point of death, the

attendants, wishing to give the departing spirit as good a passport

into the spirit-world as possible, suspend every other care and

address themselves to the work of fixing the thoughts of the dying one

upon Buddha. To accomplish this they take turns in enunciating as

clearly as possible the name of Buddha generally employed when in

health――_P’ra Arahang_.

Whenever the writer has been present at the death of an adult member

of the royal family, this has been the name used. It is uttered as

often as eight or ten times in a minute. This is done, hoping that the

departed spirit will thus be helped to think of Buddha, and that that

will accumulate a large fund of merit to his credit which will become

of vast service to him in the spirit-world. It would seem to be a

service having much the same object as that of the “_extreme unction_”

of the Roman Catholics. It is continued from ten to fifteen minutes

after the pulse has stopped its beating and the lungs their heaving,

even until the body is cold and stiff in death.

When all evidence of hearing is gone the attending friends will raise

their voices almost to a stunning pitch, hoping that they may force

the departing spirit to hear the name of _P’ra Arahang_. When the most

loving friends have ceased to have any lingering hope that the dead

can hear them longer, then the continuous and deafening sounds of

_P’ra Arahang_ are exchanged for the most uncontrollable wailings,

which are so loud that they can be heard at a great distance. Then all

members of the family, including the slaves in the house within

hearing, join in a general outburst of crying and sobbing.

When a prince of high rank has just died, other princes, nobles and

lords, in the order of their rank, step up one by one and pour a

dipper of water upon the corpse. Certain officials in the household

dress the body for a sitting posture in a pair of tightly-fitting

short pantaloons and jacket, and over these a winding sheet wrapped

around the body as firmly as possible. Thus prepared, the corpse is

placed in a copper urn with an iron grating for its bottom, and this

is put into one made of fine gold, with an outlet at the most pendent

point, and a stopcock from which the fluid parts of the body are daily

drawn off until it becomes quite dry. The golden urn is then placed on

an elevated platform, while conch-shell blowers and trumpeters and

pipers perform their several parts with the greatest possible harmony

of such instruments. This act is called _Ch’on p’ra sop K’u’n p’ra

taan_――literally, an invitation to the corpse to be seated on the

platform.

When thus seated all the insignia of royalty which the prince was wont

to have about him in life are arranged in due order at his feet――viz.

his golden betel-box, his cigar-case, his golden spittoon, his writing

apparatus, etc. The band of musicians now perform a funeral dirge; and

they assemble daily at early dawn, at noon and at nightfall to perform

in concert with a company of mourning women who bewail the dead and

chant his virtues. In the intervals a company of Buddhist priests,

four at a time, sitting on the floor a little distant from the

platform, recite moral lessons and chant incantations in the Pali,

with loud, clear, musical intonations.

This service is continued day and night, with only the intervals for

the performance of the dirges and mourning women, and a few minutes

each hour as the four priests retire and another four come in and take

their place. This is kept up from week to week and month to month

until the time appointed for burning the corpse has arrived, which may

be from two to six or even eight months. The remains of a king are

usually kept from eight to twelve months. (In the present case the

remains have been kept seventeen months.)

In event of the death of a king his successor immediately begins

preparations for the _P’ramene_, which is the splendid temporary

building under which the body is to sit in state several days on a

throne glittering with silver, gold and precious stones, and then and

there to be committed to the flames.

The building is intended to be in size and grandeur according to the

estimation in which the deceased was held. Royal orders are forthwith

sent to the governors of four different provinces far away to the

north, in which large timber abounds, requiring each of these to

furnish one of the four large logs for the centre pillars of the

_P’ramene_. These must be of the finest timber, usually the oil tree,

very straight, two hundred feet long and proportionately large in

circumference, which the writer has observed to be not less than

twelve feet. There are always twelve other pillars, a little smaller

in size, demanded at the same time from governors of other provinces,

as also much other timber needful in the erection of the _P’ramene_

and the numerous buildings connected with it.

[Illustration: CREMATION TEMPLE: A TEMPORARY BUILDING.]

As sacred custom will not tolerate the use of pillars that have been

used on any former occasion, new ones must be obtained for the funeral

obsequies of each king. These four large pillars are very difficult to

find, and can be floated down to the capital only at seasons of the

year when the rivers where they are found are full. They are hauled to

the banks of the streams by elephants and buffaloes. The great

difficulty of procuring these pillars is one main cause of the usual

long delay of the funeral burning of a king. When brought to the city

they are hauled up to the place of the _P’ramene_ chiefly by the

muscular power of men working by means of a rude windlass and rollers

under the logs. They are then hewed and planed a little――just enough

to remove all crooks and other deformities――and finished off in a

cylindrical form. Then they are planted in the ground thirty feet

deep, one at each corner of a square not less than one hundred and

sixty feet in circumference. When in their proper place they stand

leaning a little toward each other, so that they describe the form of

a four-sided, truncated pyramid from one hundred and fifty to one

hundred and eighty feet high. On the top of these is framed a

pagoda-formed spire, adding from fifty to sixty more feet to the

height of the structure. This upper part is octagonal, and so covered

with yellow tin sheets and tinseled paper as to make a grand

appearance at such a height, but it would not well bear close

inspection.

Surrounding the _P’ramene_ there is a new bamboo fence ten feet high,

enclosing a square of more than two acres, with a gate midway on three

sides. On the inside of this fence are numberless bamboo buildings,

fantastically painted and papered, for the accommodation of the

priests and nobles, one side of the square being chiefly occupied with

buildings for the king’s own accommodation while attending the

ceremonies of the royal cremation. These are distinguished from all

others by having their roofs covered with crimson cloth, the peculiar

horn-like projections at the two ends of their ridges, and by the

golden drapery suspended in front and tastefully gathered up to the

several posts of the hall.

The whole area is neatly covered with bamboo wickerwork, the slats of

which the woof and warp are made being more than an inch wide, forming

thus one unbroken bamboo carpet, giving great elasticity to the steps

of all who walk upon it.

There are placed here and there upon this bamboo floor multitudes of

standards peculiar to the Siamese. Some are like the _Sawe-krachat_,

or royal umbrella of several stories high. Some of them are with

machinery exhibiting a variety of little paper figures in perpetual

action, imaging angels or devils. Here and there you will see a niche

with rude landscape views of the lower series of the Buddhists’

celestial worlds and of princely dwellings there, with delightful

pools and groves and many other sensual luxuries which a heathen mind

fancies a heaven of happiness must give its inhabitants.

Outside of the bamboo fence are buildings for the accommodation of

officers of the government and others who cannot find room within the

enclosure. There are also numerous playhouses for theatrical and

puppet-shows, masquerades, wire-dancing, etc., and, more interesting

to many, the great victualing establishment for all classes above the

vulgar, presenting a large variety of dishes and fruits, well prepared

and tempting to the appetite, all freely offered without price at all

hours of the day.

Thus much of a bird’s-eye view of what may be termed the mere shell of

the _P’ramene_.

The real _P’ramene_ is erected in the centre of the whole, in the

great hall directly under the loftiest spire, and in the centre of

this stands the _P’ra Bencha_, or throne, on which the royal urn is

placed in state. This is a splendid eight-sided pyramid, fifty or

sixty feet in circumference, its base on a floor twenty feet above the

ground. It diminishes by right-angled gradations upward some thirty

feet to a truncated top, and on its top is placed the golden urn

containing the remains of the late king most superbly decorated with

gold, diamonds and other precious stones. Some ten or fifteen feet

above this is suspended from the lofty ceiling a rich golden canopy,

and far up above that is a white circular awning overshadowing the

whole. Immediately under the golden canopy hang the sweetest and

whitest flowers arranged in the form of a large chandelier.

The _Pra Bencha_ is made brilliant by the skillful arrangement on its

several steps of the most showy articles of porcelain, glass,

alabaster, silver and gold artificial flowers and fruits intermixed

with real fruits, little images of birds, beasts, men, women,

children, angels, etc.

For illuminating the hall splendid chandeliers are suspended from the

four corners of the ceiling, assisted by innumerable lesser lights on

the angular gradations of the pyramid.

At the time of placing the royal remains in state on that lofty throne

nearly all the princes, chief nobles and officials in the kingdom

assemble just after the break of day to escort “the sacred corpse” to

its last earthly throne on the summit of the new _P’ramene_.

The golden urn is placed upon a high golden seat in a kind of

Juggernaut car drawn by a pair of horses assisted by hundreds of men.

This vehicle is preceded by two other wheel carriages, the first

occupied solely by the high priest of the kingdom, sitting on a high

seat, reading a sacred book of moral lessons in Pali called

_App’it’am_. The second carriage is occupied by a few of the most

favored children of the deceased. A strip of silver cloth is attached

to the urn and loosely extends to the two front carriages. This forms

the mystical union between the corpse, the sacred book and their royal

highnesses. The carriage behind the one bearing the royal urn carries

some fifty or sixty sticks of imported fragrant wood, richly gilded at

the ends, with which the body is to be burned. Each of these carriages

is drawn by a pair of horses, with scores of men to assist, all

pulling at a rope in front of the beasts.

Figures of elephants, rhinoceroses, lions, tigers and fabulous

animals, all made of bamboo wickerwork and having on their backs large

receptacles for priests’ robes, are drawn on small wooden wheels. In

front and in the rear hundreds of men dressed in white, with

pagoda-form white turbans eight or ten inches tall, purporting to be

angels, walk four abreast and carry glass imitation lotus-flowers.

The moment the procession begins to move the shells, trumpets and

pipes are sounded and the death-drums are beaten with a slow, measured

stroke until the royal hearse reaches the _P’ramene_. By ropes and

pulleys the urn is drawn slowly up with much ceremony and placed on

the splendid throne, to remain in state at least seven days before

burning, the strip of silver cloth extending from the lid of the urn

down the eastern and western sides of the pyramid nearly to the flight

of steps on the east and west sides of the building.

Then the chief priests of the city and from nearly all other parts of

the kingdom begin to assemble, a hundred or more at a time, on the

floor of the _P’ramene_ in sight of the holy urn, and rehearse in

concert lessons in Pali called _P’ang-soo-koon_, which are in

substance reflections on the brevity and uncertainty of human life,

the certainty of death and transmigration, the sorrows connected with

every state of mutability and the blessings of Nipan, where there can

be no more change. Having uttered audibly these short lessons, they

continue in a sitting posture, with downcast looks, a few minutes,

reflecting silently on the condition of the living and the dead, and

then retire, giving place to another hundred or more to recite the

same lessons. Thus they come and go until thousands of the chief

priests and others of lower rank have had the honor; and this is

repeated every day while the corpse sits in state and for three days

afterward.

All the princes and nobles and royal servants are dressed in white.

Every Siamese subject, noble or plebeian, man and woman, bond and

free, must then out of respect for the dead have his head entirely

shaven.

The multitudes of priests are sumptuously fed from the royal bounty

early every morning, and again before noon. Yellow robes are prepared

for them at the expense of the king’s private purse. To every chief

priest he gives a complete suit, and to every other priest some

important part of a suit, if not the whole. Besides the yellow robes,

the king has also in readiness vast provisions of bedsteads, fully

furnished with mosquito-bars, mattresses, pillows, towels, spittoons,

betel-boxes, cigar-cases, rice-kettles, lacquered trays, lamps,

candles, boats with little houses on them, and other articles which

the priests need in their daily calling. These articles he distributes

to them every day.

Another performance, usually more exciting than all the rest, is the

daily scattering of money broadcast among the thousands that have

assembled there for the sport. The king takes personally a very lively

part in it. The money and jewelry are usually imbedded in little green

limes or small balls of wood, to prevent them from getting lost among

the crowd. His Majesty, standing in his temporary palace-door, having

bushels of limes at his feet, each charged with one piece of money,

taking up a handful at a time, throws them, often so guiding his hand

as that some peculiar favorite shall have the best chance in the

game――some corpulent prince whom he wishes to set into ludicrous

motion by his efforts to catch the flying prize. To show proper

respect, every one, whether prince or prime minister or consul or

missionary, must exert himself to catch His Majesty’s gifts while

flying, and must go down on all fours grabbing after them at the feet

of the multitude if they happen to fall there. He manifestly enjoys

the sport, often laughing most heartily at the sight of the jumping,

scrambling and groveling eagerness of his lords to obtain the limes.

Sometimes the limes are hung on artificial trees called _ton

Kappapruk_――literally, “trees that gratified the desires of men.” They

are intended to represent the four trees that are to be found in each

of the four corners of the city in which the next Buddha is to be

born, and which will bear not only money, but seri-leaf, betel-nut,

oranges, clothing, gold, diamonds――in short, everything else that man

shall need for his comfort under his reign.

Four men ascend the mound in which these trees are planted to pluck

the fruit by handfuls and cast them to crowds of men who stand as

compacted as it would seem possible for them to live. Every throw is

instantly followed by a universal shout from the multitude and a rush

for the prize. And then they surge hither and thither like a forest

swayed by a mighty wind. The writer thinks he has seen ten thousand

men engaged at one time in this kind of sport. It takes but about

fifteen minutes to pluck all the fruit from these trees, and then the

game is over. It is a rare thing for a man to catch more than two or

three limes.

Still another mode of dispensing the royal gifts on such occasions is

to divide them into lots, with a slip of palm-leaf attached to each

lot and a copy of each on another slip, which, being rolled up or put

into the wooden ball or lime, is thrown out by the king to his favored

audience. He sometimes adopts a similar mode in dispensing his favors

to companies of the chief priests, taking care, of course, that only

such things as are suitable for priests are put into such lots.

Sundry Chinese, Malay and Siamese dramas and shadow-scenes are played,

and at early candlelight the _P’ramene_ is most brilliantly

illuminated within and without. About eight or nine o’clock in the

evening the fireworks are sent off, being occasionally ignited by the

king himself. You first hear the crackling of the matches, then you

see the sulphuric fire and smoke running up tall bamboo poles and

extending out into branches. Presently a dozen tall trees of fire

throw an intense light over all the premises. These quickly burn out,

and another flash brings into view beautiful fire-shrubbery. In a

minute or two they blossom roses, dahlias, oleanders and other flowers

of all hues, and the most beautiful, continually changing their colors

like the chameleon until they all fade out into darkness. You are

startled by the report of rockets sent up from various places in rapid

succession, a hundred or more, showing that the Siamese are not far

behind the times in this art. Immediately after this you will hear a

terrible roaring like the bellowing of a dozen elephants, with an

occasional crash like the bursting of a small engine-boiler. They are

the fireworks called _Chang rawng_, which means “bellowing elephants.”

Suddenly innumerable fire-birds begin chirping, buzzing, hopping and

flying in all directions. Some ascend high in the air and burst with a

small spluttering report. Mimic volcanic eruptions, attended with jets

of ignited sulphur and iron, ascending like waterspouts and falling in

showers of red-hot lava, are kept going until fifty or more have been

fired.

Before the burning of the body the golden urn containing the corpse is

removed from the top of the _Pra Bencha_, and the copper urn taken

out. This has an iron grating at the bottom overlaid with spices and

fragrant powders. All the precious articles with which the pyramid was

decorated are temporarily removed from it, and some eight or ten feet

of the upper part of it taken down to form a place of suitable

dimensions for the burning. Then the fragrant wood is laid in order in

cross layers on the platform, having a bellows attached to the pile.

Precious spices and fragrant articles, many in kind, are put among the

wood. A gunpowder match is laid from a certain part of the hall set

apart for the seat of the king, reaching to a spot made particularly

combustible in the pile of wood. These changes are made with

surprising rapidity.

All being ready, the king takes electric fire――which had been

preserved for such purposes for a long time――and touches it to the end

of the match at his feet. This kindles a flame in the midst of the

wood. Immediately the next in rank among the princes steps up and lays

his large wax candle, lighted from a lamp burning in the same

lightning fire, among the wood or on the top of it as seems to him

most convenient. The next prince in order of rank does the same, and

all the nobles and lords lay their wax candles among the wood. The

rank-order is soon lost in the hurry of the many who wish to

contribute their candles before it shall be too late. Hundreds of wax

candles, great and small, are laid on the wood ere the burning has

advanced too far to admit any more.

To prevent the flames from becoming too intense for the safety of the

_P’ramene_ and its appendages, strong men armed with long-handled

dippers are dashing water whenever and wherever required; there are

others armed with iron pokers, whose business it is to stir the fire

occasionally. The moment the wood is fired the funeral bands strike up

their dirges and the company of mourning women set up their wailing.

This continues only a few minutes. The time occupied in the burning is

not more than one hour.

[Illustration: TOMB OF A BONZE.]

The fire is extinguished before all the bones have been reduced to

ashes. A few of the remaining coals of the bones are carefully

collected and deposited in a neat and very precious gold urn. By the

time this is done the sun is set, and the _P’ramene_ is left in a

despoiled state until next morning. Nevertheless, the hall is lighted

and all the usual exercises go on through the night as before. Early

the next morning the _Pra Bencha_ pyramid is restored to its original

splendor and the little golden urn of precious coal is placed on its

summit.

All the ashes left by the burning are put in clean white muslin and

laid in a golden platter. They are then ceremoniously carried in state

to the royal landing, and, escorted by a procession of state barges,

attended by the funeral bands, carried down the river about a mile and

there committed to its waters.

The funeral obsequies of a king are continued three days after the

burning, and the ceremonies are almost the same as those in

anticipation of it until the last day. On that day a royal procession

is formed, somewhat like that of the first day, to bear the charred

remains in the little golden urn to a sacred depository of such relics

of the kings of Siam within the royal palace. Very soon after this the

servants of the king gather up all the articles which it is customary

to preserve for future funeral occasions――viz. the permanent gold and

silver stands, the golden canopy and the ornaments of the pyramid. But

the timber of which the _P’ramene_ and its appendages are made is

taken down and converted to other uses, usually the building of

Buddhist temples.[1]

FUNERALS AMONG THE PEOPLE.

These very costly funerals of the royal family and nobility are not

possible, of course, among the common people. The priests, however,

are generally sent for to attend the dying, and when there sprinkle

the suffering one with holy water, recite passages from their sacred

books and pronounce the name of Buddha repeatedly.

After death there is a season of weeping and wailing by the family,

and the body is then washed and wrapped tightly in white cloth. An urn

or wooden coffin covered with gilt paper and decorated with tinsel

flowers is brought, and the body placed therein.

Among the people the corpse is not kept long in the dwelling, and

instances have been known where the dying one was removed outside on

account of the superstitious fears of the family.

When the coffin is carried off, it is not through a door or window,

but a hole is cut in the bamboo wall, and sometimes the bearers run

around the house two or three times, lest the spirit should find its

way back and haunt the premises.

The cremation takes place in some temple-ground where there is a

permanent _P’ramene_. But occasionally the dying “make merit” by

bequeathing their dead body to the vultures. In such cases the flesh

is cut off with a knife and fed to these birds of prey, which haunt

the burning-localities in great numbers, and the bones only are

burned. Paupers and criminals are thus fed to the vultures or burned

without ceremony. All persons struck dead by lightning or carried off

suddenly by small-pox or cholera are first buried for some months, and

then dug up and burned.

The funerals of the wealthy last several days, and are connected with

feasting, fireworks and theatrical displays. The garb of mourning in

Siam is white, not black, and is accompanied with shaving of the heads

of all the immediate family and their servants.

CREMATION AT BEJREPUREE OF A MAN IN THE MIDDLE WALKS OF LIFE.

[From the _Bangkok Recorder_, May, 1866.]

The corpse was first to be offered to the vultures, a hundred or more.

Before the coffin was opened the filthy and horrible gang had

assembled, “for wheresoever the carcass is, there will the eagles

[vultures] be gathered together.” They were perched on the ridges of

the temple, and even on small trees and bushes within a few feet of

the body; and so greedy were they that the sexton and his assistants

had to beat them off many times before the coffin could be opened.

They seemed to know that there would be but a mouthful for each if

divided among them all, and that packs of greedy dogs were also in

waiting for their share.

The body was taken from the coffin and laid on a pile of wood that had

been prepared on a small temporary altar. Then the birds were allowed

to descend upon the corpse and tear it as they liked. For a while it

was quite hidden in the rush. But each bird, grabbing its part with

bill and claws, spread its wings and mounted to some quiet place to

eat.

The sexton seemed to think that he too was “making merit” by cutting

off parts of the body and throwing them to the hungry dogs, as the

dying man had done in bequeathing his body to these carrion-feeders.

The birds, not satisfied with what they got from the altar, came down

and quarreled with the curs for their share.

While this was going on the mourners stood waiting, with wax candles

and incense-sticks, to pay their last tribute of respect to the

deceased, by assisting in the burning of the bones after the vultures

and dogs had stripped them. The sexton, with the assistance of

another, gathered up the skeleton and put it back into the coffin,

which was lifted by four men and carried around the funeral pile three

times.

It was then laid on the pile of wood, and a few sticks were put into

the coffin to aid in burning the bones. Then a lighted torch was

applied to the pile, and the relatives and other mourners advanced and

laid each a wax candle by the torch. Others brought incense and cast

it on the pile.

The vultures, having had but a scanty breakfast, lingered about the

place until the fire had left nothing more for them, when they shook

their ugly heads, and, hopping a few steps to get up a momentum,

flapped their harpy wings and flew away.

Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries · 第 11 / 14 章