CHAPTER X.

_FIRST HAIR-CUTTING OF A YOUNG SIAMESE._

The attention of the traveler as he passes in his boat along the

rivers and canals of Siam, in town or country, is often arrested by

the sound of music proceeding from beneath an extemporized awning in

front of some dwelling by the wayside. There a promiscuous crowd have

gathered and are witnessing a theatrical performance, the actors and

actresses with chalked faces or hideous masks and in glittering and

fantastic attire. The centre of attraction, however, is manifestly a

pretty child of a dozen summers or so, richly attired and fairly

overlaid with jewelry――necklaces, gold chains, armlets, bracelets and

anklets.

A hair-cutting festival is in progress――a _kone-chook_, as it is

called, the ceremonies and the gayeties that attend the first clipping

of the cherished topknot on the child’s head. This is the great

occasion in the life of the child, and indeed second only to that of a

wedding or a funeral in the life of the family. The Siamese in shaving

the heads of their children, as they do from their earliest infancy,

always leave a small circular lock of hair on the top of the head to

be untouched by razor or shears till the child is eleven, thirteen, or

fifteen years old. Were it to be cut at an earlier day or without the

customary ceremonies, the parents would fear their child would become

insane or a prey to a kind of demon they call a _yak_. This lock grows

a foot or so long, and is kept oiled and neatly twisted into a knot.

Through this a gilt or golden large-headed hairpin three inches long

is thrust, and not unfrequently a garland of fragrant white flowers is

worn around it, giving young Siamese children quite a pretty

appearance.

[Illustration: REMOVAL OF THE TUFT OF A YOUNG SIAMESE.]

When the right year has arrived and the lucky day for the hair-cutting

has been fixed by the astrologers, the friends of the family are

invited, and a band of play-actors engaged and a company of Buddhist

priests, and for a day or two there is a constant round of

prayer-chanting, play-acting and feasting of priests and friends. The

ceremonies begin with the priests chanting in chorus their prayers,

seated cross-legged on mats on an elevated platform, a thread of white

cotton yarn passing from their hands around the clasped hands of the

kneeling child and back to them again, serving as a sort of electric

conductor to the child of the benefits their prayers evoke. The next

morning, when the auspicious moment arrives, the man of highest rank

among the guests with shears clips off the long-cherished lock, and

the head is close shaved for the first time; and then the child,

dressed in white, is led to an elevated seat under a canopy of white

cloth and consecrated water is poured freely over it, first by the

parents, then by kindred and friends. Its drenched garments are now

replaced by gay attire, and a curious ceremony called _weean teean_ is

next gone through with. Candles are lighted, and while the music is

playing loudly are carried five times round the child, who is seated

on a kind of throne between two circular five-storied flowerstand-like

altars, called _bai-sees_, containing cooked rice, fruit and flowers,

offerings to the spirits of the air. The candles are then blown out in

such a way that the smoke shall be borne toward the child. This is

supposed to stock the boy or girl with spirit and courage for the

duties of life.

The relatives and friends of the family now are expected to make a

present in money to the child, each according to his ability or

station, the sums varying from one to eighty pieces of silver (60

cents to $48), so that the newly-shorn youngster will on these

occasions receive enough to give him quite a start in the world or if

a maiden sufficient for a dowry.

And now a general feasting ensues, the yellow-clad priests being first

served, and for a day or two more the music and theatrical

performances continue. After this the children are reckoned as young

men and young women. The _kone-chook_ is in fact their “coming-out”

festival.

Those whose poverty will not allow the expense of such an affair take

their child when it arrives at the proper age to a Buddhist temple,

and have a priest shave off the tuft with some simple religious

ceremony.

If so much is made of this observance in the case of ordinary

children, the celebration of the first hair-cutting of a young prince

or princess, as may well be imagined, is a very grand affair. It is

then styled a _sokan_. Preparations for it commence months beforehand;

the governors of provinces far and near are summoned to be present;

the highest priests in the kingdom are invited; and public

festivities, with free theatres, shadow-plays, rope-dancing, etc., to

amuse the immense crowds of people present, are kept up for many days.

If the child prince or princess is of the very highest rank, part of

the ceremony takes place on an artificial mountain constructed in the

court of the palace of strong timberwork and boards, covered so

entirely with sheets of pewter gilded that it appears like a beautiful

mountain of gold. The one erected a few years ago for the _sokan_ of

the eldest daughter of the reigning king――she being also a great

grand-daughter of the ex-regent――the princess Sri Wililaxan, was sixty

feet high (higher than a four-story building), and had cliffs here and

grottoes there, and lakes and waterfalls, and trees with artificial

monkeys and birds and serpents, which by concealed machinery were made

to move among them as if alive, and winding paths that led to the top,

where an elegant gilt pavilion gleamed in the sun.

The ceremonies on this occasion commenced with the chanting of prayers

in the hall of state at the palace by twenty-four head priests of the

chief temples of the city, and the lighting of “the candle of

victory,” a huge wax candle six feet high, which burned day and night

till the moment the hair was cut. The next morning these same priests

were sumptuously feasted at the palace, and dismissed with presents of

priests’ robes, cushions, fans, etc., and another company took their

place.

In the afternoon was the first of the grand processions to escort the

young princess to the great hall of state where the religious services

were held. In the open square in front of this hall seats were

provided for six or seven hundred of the nobility to witness the

procession, themselves a most brilliant sight in their coats of gold

brocade, many sparkling with diamonds. As soon as the king arrived and

seated himself in the high pavilion prepared for him a troop of

beautiful girls in glittering dresses descended from the golden

mountain――from the gilded temple there――and at the base of the

mountain, in full view of His Majesty, danced the flower-dance to the

sound of native music, waving branches of gold and silver flowers.

Heralded by music, the imposing procession now came on. First there

were masked men representing Japanese warriors; then Siamese soldiers

in European uniform, with bands of music; then two noblemen,

representing celestial messengers, archangels, dressed in all white

with gold embroidery, and having crowns on their heads terminating in

a long, slender, white spire full eighteen inches high. These led on a

hundred more angels with like high-pointed spires on their heads; then

came Indian musicians and yet more angels, and then companies of men

and boys of all nationalities that were to serve the princess, each in

their national costume――first, a troop of Chinese in blue, then of

Malays with white turbans, then Anamese, Peguans, Laos, Karens.

And now a pretty sight――more than a hundred children of noblemen

dressed in white, with little gold coronets on their topknots and

loaded with jewelry, all kept in their places by holding on to a rope

drawn tight by strong men before and behind. Trumpeters and drummers

in scarlet came next, and Brahmans in white and gold scattering

flowers and sprinkling holy water. Men now came on carrying the

peculiar standards of royalty: eight had each a sort of many-storied

umbrella of gold cloth, the staff fifteen feet high; others carried

huge golden curiously-carved fans with long handles, others spears,

and one the sword of state. Two pretty damsels, robed and crowned as

queens, with bunches of peacock feathers in their hands, followed, and

then came the little princess herself, in white robes and wearing a

small diadem, seated on a golden throne borne aloft on the shoulders

of pages in purple. By her side walked six of the great nobles of the

kingdom as archangels, with high white steeple-like crowns, and twelve

maids of honor in rich dresses followed, bearing her gold tray of

betel, her spittoon, fan and other articles of use; then there were

more of the storied umbrellas and huge fans and spear-bearers. Next in

the procession walked with lady-like and graceful carriage fifty or

more of the king’s wives in ranks of four, all wearing robes of snowy

silk reaching to their feet, with scarfs of silver hue, and eight or

nine massive gold chains passing over one shoulder and across the

breast, as did the scarfs, the other shoulder and arm being left bare.

After these came various officials of the harem, and last the female

police of the palace.

Following the women of the palace were representatives of women of all

the nations living in Siam and near it――Chinese, Japanese, Hindoo,

Burmese, Laos, Cochin-Chinese, etc.――each in their national dress, the

last in long blue silk coats with orange trousers. These were

succeeded by the Siamese servants of the princess――hundreds of lively

girls in bright scarfs; after them two white ponies were led by

grooms. Then came the men-servants, many hundreds, in white jackets,

and a regiment of Siamese soldiers formed the rear-guard.

When the princess reached the pavilion where His Majesty sat, her

bearers stopped, and she made homage to her royal father by raising

her joined hands above her head. He, rising to receive her, lifted her

to his side, and together they passed in to where a relay of priests

were chanting prayers. After an hour or so, the princess, coming out,

was escorted back to the gate of the inner palace, all going in the

same order as that in which they came. These processions were repeated

every afternoon for three days.

On the fourth and great day the ceremonies commenced in the morning

soon after daybreak, for so the Brahman astrologers had directed. The

princess, borne in procession as usual, was taken to the great hall of

the palace, and there, precisely at the lucky moment, the lock of hair

about which all this ado was made was solemnly cut with scissors by

the highest of the princes. Her head was then close shaved with gold,

silver and steel razors. The candle of victory was now extinguished.

Still clad in white, our little princess was next carried in

procession to the foot of the golden mountain and seated on a marble

bench in a pool representing the holy lake Anodad. Here the king took

five jars――of gold, silver, brass, bronze and stone――and poured holy

water over her. She shivered, and almost cried. But the great princes

and princesses, and after them the chief of nobles, came up, and each

in turn poured water over the poor child with trying deliberation for

nearly half an hour. At last she was permitted to retire to a

curtained pavilion near and exchange her drenched robes of white for

the rich apparel of royalty. The prime minister and the minister of

foreign affairs, gorgeously clad as angels, escorted her now up the

golden mountain. At the summit an aged uncle of the king and her royal

father himself received her. In the pretty temple there she was

invested with a crown of solid gold, and then descended in full royal

state covered with jewels, and was carried in procession thrice round

the mountain, her right hand toward it.

But, lo! a marvelous transformation in the appearance of the

procession had now taken place. The angels that had been clad in white

now assumed pink or rose tints; the ladies of the palace had

golden-colored scarfs instead of silver, and the pretty children that

came in white were now seen clothed in pink, with bright red bands

around their topknots and coronets, all indicative of the joyous

change the clipping of that lock of hair had brought to the royal

child.

The morning’s ceremony lasted in all about three hours, and then the

princess was borne away to needful rest for a season.

In the afternoon another ceremony was performed――the “weean teean,” or

encircling with candles, of which mention has been made before. Borne

to the hall of state in procession, the princess, in rich costume, was

seated on a central throne, between two _bai-sees_, which in this case

were five-storied piles of round golden trays successively diminishing

in size toward the top, looking like circular flower-stands, each

containing cooked rice-cakes, scented oil and flour, young cocoanuts

and bananas――all surmounted by a bouquet of flowers. Near her sat her

royal father. All around the hall were the princes and nobles and

ladies of rank seated in a circle. Two chiefs of the Brahmans standing

near the _bai-sees_ lighted in succession fifteen large wax candles

set in gold, silver and crystal candlesticks, and handed them one by

one to the highest in rank present, who with a wave of his hand guided

the flame toward the princess and passed the candle on to the next,

who did the same. At the same time others of the Brahmans were beating

their peculiar drums with a wild burst of music, and hymns were

chanted while each of the fifteen candles made the circuit of the hall

five times, and then were handed back to the Brahman, who suddenly

extinguished them, blowing the smoke toward the princess, thus wafting

to her, as it were, the invigorating influence of beneficent spirits,

of which they say the air is full. With the same object the Brahman

gave the child some of the rice with the milk of the young cocoanut,

and, dipping his finger in the sacred oil and scented flour, anointed

the right foot in three places. The king then poured holy water over

his daughter’s hands, which she passed over her head, and the

ceremonies for the day were over. For three days this weean-teean rite

was performed, and the processions escorting the princess back and

forth went on, and then the sokan festival was ended.

During these last three days congratulatory presents in silver coin

were most liberally made to the little princess by all of any rank in

the kingdom. The amount received on this occasion was not less, it is

said, than fifty thousand dollars――enough certainly to keep a Siamese

princess in pin-money for life.

One cannot help remarking, How costly all these vain heathen

superstitions! And all this pomp and parade and immense expense and

these wearisome ceremonies, cheerfully undertaken to avert from the

king’s daughter imaginary evils, from which, if they existed, God only

could protect, and to induce prosperity which God only could give! Sad

indeed it is to reflect how completely, in this and in all the customs

of this people, all reference to or thought of the Lord and Maker of

us all, on whom all creatures are dependent for every blessing, and

whose favor is life and true happiness, has been shut out.

Let us, “whose souls are lighted by wisdom from on high,” pray

earnestly for these boys and girls in Siam, who now trust in these

foolish rites and offerings to spirits that do not exist, that as they

enter upon manhood and womanhood the blessing of the almighty One may

rest upon them, so that they, more favored than those before them, may

learn and believe and rejoice in the truth as it is in Christ the

Lord.

Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries · 第 5 / 14 章