mentioned. Not to wear on the collar, cuffs, or boots, "autres
choses que de la toile simple sans aucune façon."--Arch. Nat. G. G.
G.
[432] _Le Courtisan Reformé, suivant l'Edit. de l'année 1633_; and again,
_Le Jardin de la Noblesse Françoise dans lequel ce peut cueillir
leur manière de Vettement_. 1629.
[433] April, 1636.
[434] 1631. _Trésorerie de la Reine Marie de Médicis._--Arch. Nat. K. K.
191.
[435] Vulson de la Colombière, _Pompes qu'on pratique aux obséques des
Rois de France_.
[436] _Mémoires de Guy Joly_, from 1648 to 1665.
[437] About this period a special Act had confirmed the Statutes of the
Maîtres Passementiers of Paris. By Article 21, they are privileged
to make every sort of passement or lace, "sur l'oreiller, aux
fuzeaux, aux épingles, et à la main," on condition the material,
gold, silver, thread, or silk, be "de toutes fines ou de toutes
fausses." The sale of thread and lace was allowed to the Lingères,
but by an Arrêt of the Parliament of Paris, 1665, no one could be a
marchande lingère unless she had made profession of the "religion
catholique, apostolique, et romaine," a condition worthy of the
times. "Il n'y fut," writes Gilles de Felice, in his _Histoire des
Protestants de France_, "pas jusqu'à la corporation des lingères qui
ne s'en allât remontrer au conseil que leur communauté, ayant été
instituée par saint Louis, no pouvait admettre d'hérétiques, et
cette réclamation fut gravement confirmée par un arrêt du 21 août,
1665."
[438] Dated November 19th, 1653. The letter is given in full by the
Marquis de Laborde in _Le Palais Mazarin_. Paris, 1845.
[439] _Inv. fait apres la mort du Cardinal Mazarin_, 1661.--Bibl. Nat.
MSS. Suite de Mortmart, 37.
[440] It is to be found at the Archives National, or in the Library of the
Cour de Cassation. In the Archives National is a small collection of
ordinances relative to lace collected by M. Rondonneau, extending
from 1666 to 1773. It is very difficult to get at all the
ordinances. Many are printed in De la Mare (_Traité de la Police_);
but the most complete work is the _Recueil général des anciennes
Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789_, par
MM. Isambert, Ducrusy, et Taillandier. Paris, 1829. The ordinances
bear two dates, that of their issue and of their registry.
[441] This "canon," originally called "bas de bottes," was a circle of
linen or other stuff fastened below the knee, widening at the bottom
so as to fill the enlargement of the boot, and when trimmed with
lace, having the appearance of a ruffle.
[442] _Dictionnaire des Précieuses._ 1660. Molière likewise ridicules
them:--
"Et de ces grands canons, où, comme des entraves,
On met tous les matins les deux jambes esclaves."
--_L'École des Maris._
And again, in _L'École des Femmes_:
"Ils ont de grands canons, force rubans et plumes."
[443] _Les Délices de la France_, par M. Savinière d'Alquié. 1670.
[444] The fashion of wearing black lace was introduced into England in the
reign of Charles II. "Anon the house grew full, and the candles lit,
and it was a glorious sight to see our Mistress Stewart in black and
white lace, and her head and shoulders dressed with
diamonds."--Pepys's _Diary._
"The French have increased among us many considerable trades, such
as black and white lace."--_England's Great Happiness_, etc.
Dialogue between Content and Complaint. 1677.
"Item, un autre habit de grosse moire garny de dantelle d'Angleterre
noire."--1691. _Inv. de Madame de Simiane._ Arch. Nat., M. M. 802.
[445] "Of this custom, a relic may still be found at the Court of Turin,
where ladies wear lappets of black lace. Not many years since, the
wife of a Russian minister, persisting to appear in a suit of
Brussels point, was courteously requested by the Grand Chamberlain
to retire" (1869).
[446] _Chroniques de l'Oeil-de-Boeuf._
[447] Madame de Motteville is not complimentary to the ladies of the
Spanish Court: "Elles avoient peu de linge," she writes, "et leurs
dentelles nous parurent laides."--_Mémoires pour servir à l'histoire
d'Anne d'Autriche._
[448] Madame de Sévigné mentions these dresses: "Avez-vous ouï parler des
transparens?... de robes noires transparentes ou des belles
dentelles d'Angleterre."--_Lettres._
[449] 1690. _Chroniques de l'Oeil-de-Boeuf._
[450] 1661, May 27; 1662, Jan. 1; 1664, May 31, Sept. 18, and Dec. 12.
[451] "On fabriquait précédemment ces espèces de dentelles guipures, dont
on ornait les aubes des prêtres, les rochets des évêques et les
jupons des femmes de qualité."--_Roland de la Platière._ The
articles on lace by Roland and Savary have been copied by all
succeeding writers on the subject.
[452] Mgr. de Bonzy, Dec. 20, 1664. _Correspondance administrative sous
Colbert_, vol. 3.
[453] Lefébure.
[454] "Il y a très longtemps que le point coupé se faict icy, qui a son
débit selon le temps; mais qu'une femme nommée La Perrière (sic),
fort habile à ces ouvrages, trouva il y a quelques années le moyen
d'imiter les points de Venise, en sorte qu'elle y vint à telle
perfection que ceux qu'elle faisoit ne devaient rien aux estrangers.
Pour faire ces ouvrages il luy falloit enseigner plusieurs petites
filles auxquelles elle montroit à faire ce point ... à présent je
vous puis asseurer qu'il y a plus de 8,000 personnes qui y
travaillent dans Alençon, dans Seèz, dans Argentan, Falaise....
"Monseigneur, c'est une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du ciel qui
s'est espandue sur tout ce pays, dans lequel les petitz enfants
mesmes de sept ans trouvent moyen de gaigner leur vie. Les
vieillards y travaillent et les petites bergerettes des champs y
travaillent mêmes."--_Letter from Favier-Duboulay, intendant
d'Alençon since 1644._ Correspondance administrative sous le règne
de Louis XIV (quoted by Madame Despierres), vol. 3.
[455] In 1842 M. Joseph Odolant Desnos, grandson of this author, writes,
"Ce fut une dame Gilberte, qui avait fait son apprentissage à
Venise, et était native d'Alençon. Dès qu'elle fut à ses ordres, ce
ministre (Colbert) la logea dans le magnifique château de Lonrai,
qu'il possédait près d'Alençon."--_Annuaire de l'Orne._
[456] _Mémoires historiques sur la ville d'Alençon_, M. Odolant Desnos.
Alençon, 1787.
[457] "Le château de Lonrai ne passa dans la maison de Colbert que par le
mariage de Catherine Thérèse de Matignon, Marquise de Lonrai, avec
Jean-Baptiste Colbert, fils ainé du grand Colbert, le 6e septembre
1678" (_i.e._, fourteen years after the establishment of points de
France at Alençon) --Madame Despierres, _Histoire de point
d'Alençon_.
[458] Madame Despierres, after an exhaustive study of the mass of
documentary evidence on this point, gives as her opinion that--
"(1) La première personne qui à Alençon imita le point de Venise, et
par conséquent créa le point d'Alençon, fut Mme La Perrière, vers
1650, et non Mme Gilbert.
"(2) La préposée-directrice des manufactures de point de France des
différentes villes du royaume qui a établi les bureaux à Alençon,
fut Catherine de Marcq, et non pas une dame Gilbert.
"(3) Les préposées mises à la tête de l'établissement d'Alençon
étaient Mme Raffy et Marie Fillesae, dont les noms ne répondent pas
à celui d'une dame Gilbert."--_Madame Despierres, Histoire de point
d'Alençon._
[459] Mrs. Palliser sought in vain for this ordinance in the Library of
the Cour de Cassation, where it is stated to be, by the authors of
the "Recueil général des anciennes Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420
jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789"; but fortunately it is recited in a
subsequent act, dated Oct. 12, 1666 (Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau),
by which it appears that the declaration ordered the establishment
in "les villes de Quesnoy, Arras, Reims, Sedan, Château-Thierry,
Loudun, Alençon, Aurillac, et autres du royaume, de la manufacture
de toutes sortes d'ouvrages de fil, tant à l'éguille qu'au coussin,
en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, Gennes, Raguse, et
autres pays estrangers, qui seroient appellés points de France," by
which it would appear the term point de France did not exclusively
belong to the productions of Alençon. After the company was
dissolved in 1675 the name of point de France was applied to point
d'Alençon alone. In a subsequent arrêt it is set forth that the
entrepreneurs have caused to be brought in great numbers the best
workers from Venice and other foreign cities, and have distributed
them over Le Quesnoy and the above-mentioned towns, and that now are
made in France "des ouvrages de fil si exquis, qu'ils esgallent,
mesme surpassent en beauté les estrangers."--_Bibl. de la Cour de
Cassation._
What became of these manufactures at Le Quesnoy and Château-Thierry,
of which not a tradition remains?
[460] Talon, "secrétaire du cabinet," was one of the first members. We
find by an arrêt, Feb. 15, 1667, that this patent had already been
infringed. On the petition of Jean Pluymers, Paul, and Catherine de
Marcq, "entrepreneurs" of the fabric of points de France, his
Majesty confirms to them the sole privilege of making and selling
the said points.--Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. Nov. 17 of the same
year appears a fresh prohibition of wearing or selling the
passements, lace, and other works in thread of Venice, Genoa, and
other foreign countries (British Museum), and March 17, 1668,
"Itératives" prohibitions to wear these, either new or "commencé
d'user," as injurious to a manufacture of point which gives
subsistence to a number of persons in the kingdom.--_Ibid._ Again,
Aug. 19, 1669, a fresh arrêt in consequence of complaints that the
workers are suborned and work concealed in Paris, etc.--Arch Nat.,
Coll. Rondonneau.
[461] Colbert said to Louis XIV.: "There will always be found fools enough
to purchase the manufactures of France, though France should be
prohibited from purchasing those of other countries." The King
agreed with the minister, whom he made chief director of the trade
and manufactures of the kingdom.
[462] A favourite saying of Colbert.
[463] The artists who furnished designs for all works undertaken for the
court of Louis XIV. must have supplied designs for the lace
manufactures: "In the accounts of the King's buildings is the entry
of a payment due to Bailly, the painter, for several days' work with
other painters in making designs for embroideries and points
d'Espagne" (Lefébure).
[464] The principal centres of lace-making were Aurillac, Sedan, Rheims,
Le Quesnoy, Alençon, Arras, and Loudun, and the name "Points de
France" was given without distinction to all laces made at these
towns; preference was given in choosing these centres to those towns
already engaged in lace-making. Alençon produced the most brilliant
results, for from the beginning of the seventeenth century the town
had been engaged in needle-point lace, and some of the lace-makers
earned high wages, and showed great aptitude for the art. In her
_Histoire du Point d'Alençon_, Madame Despierres has made some
interesting extracts from various marriage contracts and wills:--
"A notable instance is that of a family named Barbot, the mother
having amassed 500 livres. Her daughter, Marthe Barbot, married
Michel Mercier, sieur de la Perrière, and brought him a
wedding-portion of 300 livres, the earnings of her industry; while
her sister Suzanne Barbot's wedding-portion, upon her marriage with
Paul Ternouillet, amounted to 6,000 livres, earned in making
cut-works and works en _velin_ (needle-point lace done on a
parchment pattern), which command a high price" (Lefébure).
[465] The Venetian Senate, according to Charles Yriarte, regarded this
emigration of workers to France as a crime against the State, and
issued the following decree:--
"If any artist or handicraftsman practises his art in any foreign
land to the detriment of the Republic, orders to return will be sent
him; if he disobeys them, his nearest of kin will be put into
prison, in order that through his interest in their welfare his
obedience may be compelled. If he comes back, his past offence will
be condoned, and employment for him will be found in Venice; but if,
notwithstanding the imprisonment of his nearest of kin, he
obstinately decides to continue living abroad, an emissary will be
commissioned to kill him, and his next of kin will only be liberated
upon his death."
[466] To afford an idea of the importance of the lace trade in France at
the beginning of the eighteenth century, and of the immense
consumption of lace in France, we give the following statistics:--In
1707, the collection of the duties of lace was under-farmed to one
Étienne Nicolas, for the annual sum of 201,000 livres. The duty then
was of 50 livres per lb. weight of lace, so that there entered
annually into France above 400,000 lbs. of lace, which, estimating
at the lowest 1,000 lbs. of lace to be worth 1,000 livres, would
represent 4 millions of that epoch. Taking into calculation that
fraud was extensively practised, that the points of Venice and
Genoa, being prohibited, could not appear in the receipts; and that,
on the other part, the under-farmer did not pay the farmer-general
the 201,000 livres without the certainty of profit to himself, we
must admit that the figure, though high, is far from representing
the value of the foreign laces which entered France at that period.
We think that 8 millions (£320,000) would be below the true
figure.--_Rapport sur les Dentelles fait à la Commission française
de l'Exposition Universelle de Londres_, 1851. Felix Aubry. The best
history of lace published.
[467] "Deux tours de chaire de point de France donnez depuis quelques
années par deux dames de la paroisse."--_Inv. de l'église de
Saint-Merry, à Paris._ Arch. Nat. L. L. 859.
[468] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de
Condé._--_Ibid._ X. 10,065.
[469] _Inv. de l'église de Saint-Gervais, à Paris._--_Ibid._ L. L. 854.
[470] The saints, too, came in for their share of the booty.
"There was St. Winifred," writes a traveller of the day, "in a point
commode with a large scarf on and a loup in hand, as tho' she were
going to mass. St. Denis, with a laced hat and embroidered coat and
sash, like a captain of the guards."--_Six Weeks in France._ 1691.
[471] "Toille de Hollande, avec des grands points de France."--_Le
Cérémonial de la Nomination de Monseigneur le Dauphin._ 1668. Arch.
Nat. K. K. 1431.
[472] _Le Mercure Galant._ Juillet, 1688. This periodical, which we shall
have occasion so frequently to quote, was begun in 1672, and
continued to July, 1716. It comprises, with the _Extraordinaires_,
571 vols. in 12mo.
_Le Mercure de France_, from 1717 to 1792, consists of 777
vols.--Brunet. Manuel de Libraire.
[473] _Le Mercure Galant._
[474] It was the custom, at the birth of a Dauphin, for the papal nuncio
to go to the palace and present to the new-born child "les langes
benites," or consecrated layette, on behalf of his Holiness the
Pope. The shirts, handkerchiefs, and other linen, were by
half-dozens, and trimmed with the richest point. This custom dates
as early as the birth of Louis XIII. Mercier describes the ceremony
of carrying the layette to Versailles in the time of Louis XV.--_Vie
du Dauphin, père de Louis XVI._ Paris, 1858.
[475] In the Lancaster state bedroom, at Fonthill, was sold in 1823: "A
state bed quilt of Brussels point, for 100 guineas, and a Brussels
toilet cover for 30 guineas."--Fonthill. Sale Catalogue.
"1694. Une toilette de satin violet picquée garny d'un point
d'Espagne d'or à deux carreaux de mesme satin et aussi
piqué."--_Inv. de Mgr. de la Vrillière, Patriarche, Archevêque de
Bourges._ Bib. Nat.
"1743. Une toilette et son bonhomme garnie d'une vieille dentelle
d'Angleterre."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._
"1758. Une toilette avec sa touaille de point fort vieux
d'Alençon."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollois._
"1770. Une tres belle toilette de point d'Argentan, en son surtout
de 9,000 livres.
"Une tres belle toilette d'Angleterre, et son surtout de
9,000."--_Cptes. de Madame du Barry._
[476] "On voit toujours des jupes de point de France."--_Mercure Galant_,
1686.
"Corsets chamarrés de point de France."--_Ibid._
[477] Madame de Sévigné describes Mademoiselle de Blois as "belle comme un
ange," with "un tablier et une bavette de point de
France."--_Lettres._ Paris, 27 Jan., 1674.
[478] "Garnis de point de France formant une manière de rose
antique."--_Mercure Galant._ 1677.
[479] In the Extraordinaire du _Mercure_ for 1678, we have, in "habit
d'este," gloves of "point d'Angleterre."
[480] _Mercure Galant._ 1672.
[481] _Ibid._ 1686.
[482] _Mercure Galant._ Fév. 1685.
[483] _Ibid._ 1678.
[484] At the Mazarin Library there are four folio volumes of engravings,
after Bonnard and others, of the costumes of the time of Louis XIV.;
and at the Archives Nat. is a large series preserved in cartons
numbered M. 815 to 823, etc., labelled "Gravures de Modes."
[485] _La Fontange altière._--Boileau.
[486] The wife of Trajan wore this coiffure, and her sister Marcina
Faustina, wife of Antoninus, much regretted the fashion when it went
out. Speaking of this head-dress, says a writer in the _Bibliothèque
Universelle_ of 1693, "On regarde quelque fois des certaines choses
comme tout à fait nouvelles, qui ne sont que des vieilles modes
renouvellées. L'auteur en appelle un exemple dans les coiffures
elevées que portent les femmes aujourd'hui, croyant ajouter par là
quelque chose à leur taille. Les dames Romaines avaient la même
ambition et mettaient des ajustemens de tête tout semblables aux
Commodes et aux Fontanges de ce temps. Juvenal en parle expressément
dans sa Satire VI."
[487] _Galerie de l'ancienne Cour._
[488] "1699. Oct. Le Vendredi 25, il y eut grande toilette chez Madame la
Duchesse de Bourgogne où les dames parurent, pour la première fois,
en coiffures d'une forme nouvelle, c'est à dire beaucoup plus
basses."--_Mercure Galant._
[489] "Corr. de la Duchesse d'Orléans, Princesse Palatine, mère du
Régent."
[490] Speaking of the Iron Mask, Voltaire writes:--"His greatest passion
was for linen of great fineness and for lace."--_Siècle de Louis
XIV._
[491] Fought by Marshal Luxembourg--vieux tapissier de Notre-Dame--against
William of Orange.
[492] Falbala--a deep single flounce of point or gold lace. The _Mercure
Galant_, 1698, describing the Duchess of Burgundy "à la promenade,"
states: "Elle avoit un habit gris de lin en falbala, tout garny de
dentelles d'argent."
"Femme de qualité en Steinkerke et Falbala."--Engraving of 1693.
[493] See ENGLAND.--WILLIAM III.
[494] Regnard.
[495] Dame du palais to Queen Marie Thérèse, and afterwards first lady of
honour to the Duchess of Burgundy. She died 1726.
[496] _Mercure Galant._ 1683.
Again, in 1688, he says: "Les points de Malines sont fort en regne
pour les manches qu'on nomme engageantes. Ou y met des points
très-hauts, fort plissés, avec des pieds."
"Ladies trimmed their _berthes_ and sleeves with lace; when the
sleeves were short they were called _engageantes_; when long,
_pagodes_. Upon skirts laces were worn _volantes_ or as flounces,
whence the name _volant_ or flounce, which has come into use for all
wide laces; these flouncings were draped either in _tournantes_ or
_quilles_, the former laid horizontally, the latter vertically upon
skirts; but in either case these were stitched down on each edge of
the lace, whereas flounces were fastened to dresses by the
_engrêlure_ or footing. Lace _barbes_ and _fontanges_ were used as
head-dresses."
They appear to have been soon introduced into England, for Evelyn,
in his _Mundus Muliebris_, 1690, says: "About her sleeves are
engageants;" and the _Ladies' Dictionary_ of nearly the same date
gives: "Ængageants, double ruffles that fall over the wrist."
In the lace bills of Queen Mary II., we find--
£ s. d.
"1694. 1¾ yd. Point for a
broad pair of Engageants,
at £5 10s. 9 12 6
3½ for a double pair of
ditto, at £5 10s. 19 5 0
1 pair of Point Engageants 30 0 0"
--(B. M., Add. MSS. No. 5751.)
"1720. Six pairs d'engageantes, dont quatre à un rang de dentelle,
et les autres paires à double rang, l'une de dentelle d'Angleterre à
raiseau et l'autre de dentelle à bride."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de
Bourbon._ Arch. Nat.
"1723. Une paire d'engageantes à deux rangs de point plat à
raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._
"1770. Six rangs d'engageantes de point à l'aiguille," with the same
of point d'Argentan and Angleterre, appear in the lace bills of
Madame du Barry.
[497] "1725. Deux manteaux de bain et deux chemises, aussi de bain, garnis
aux manches de dentelle, l'une à bride, et l'autre à
raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._
"1743. Ung Tour de baignoir de bazin garny de vieille dentelle.
"Trois linges de baignoire garnis de dentelle."--_Inv. de la
Duchesse de Bourbon._
[498] Describing the duties of the "critic of each bright ruelle," Tickell
says:--
"Oft with varied art, his thoughts digress
On deeper themes--the documents of dress;
With nice discernment, to each style of face
Adapt a ribbon, or suggest a lace;
O'er Granby's cap bid loftier feathers float,
And add new bows to Devon's petticoat."--_Wreath of Fashion._
[499] In the spring of 1802, Mr. Holcroft, when in Paris, received a
polite note from a lady at whose house he visited, requesting to see
him. He went, and was informed by her maid the lady was in her warm
bath, but she would announce his arrival. She returned, and led him
to a kind of closet, where her mistress was up to her chin in water.
He knew the manners of the place, and was not surprised.--_Travels._
[500] Mercier also mentions, in his _Tableau de Paris_, la poupée de la
rue Saint-Honoré: "C'est de Paris que les profondes inventions en
modes donnent des loix à l'univers. La fameuse poupée, le mannequin
precieux, affublé des modes les plus nouvelles ... passe de Paris à
Londres tous les mois, et va de là répandre ses graces dans toute
l'Europe. Il va au Nord et du Midi, il pénètre à Constantinople et à
Petersbourg, et le pli qu'a donné une main françoise se répète chez
toute les nations, humbles observatrices du goût de la rue
Saint-Honoré."
[501] The practice was much more ancient. M. Ladomie asserts that in the
Royal expenses for 1391, figure so many livres for a doll sent to
the Queen of England; in 1496 another, sent to the Queen of Spain;
and in 1571 a third, to the Duchess of Bavaria.
Henry IV. writes in 1600, before his marriage to Marie de Médicis:
"Frontenac tells me that you desire patterns of our fashion in
dress. I send you, therefore, some model dolls."--Miss Freer's
_Henry IV._
It was also the custom of Venice, at the annual fair held in the
Piazza of St. Mark, on the day of the Ascension (a fair which dates
from 1180), to expose in the most conspicuous place of the fair a
rag doll, which served as a model for the fashions for the
year.--Michiel, _Origine delle Feste Veneziani._
[502] _Tableau de Paris._ 1782.
[503] "The French nation are eminent for making a fine outside, when
perhaps they want necessaries, and indeed a gay shop and a mean
stock is like the Frenchman with his laced ruffles without a
shirt."--_The Complete English Tradesman._ Dan. Defoe. Lond., 1726.
Foote, in his Prologue to the _Trip to Paris_, says, "They sold me
some ruffles, and I found the shirts."
[504] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ 1710-1802.
[505] Clement X. was in the habit of making presents of Italian lace, at
that time much prized in France, to M. de Sabière. "He sends
ruffles," said the irritated Frenchman who looked for something more
tangible, "to a man who never has a shirt."
[506] "M. de Vendôme, at his marriage, was quite astonished at putting on
his clean shirt a-day, and fearfully embarrassed at having some
point lace on the one given him to put on at night. Indeed,"
continues she, "you would hardly recognise the taste of the French.
The men are worse than the women. They wish their wives to take
snuff, play, and pay no more attention to their dress." The
exquisite cleanliness of Anne of Austria's court was at an end.