VI. A Glimpse of Samnium.

From Caserta and what is to be seen from Caserta, our next journey lies

by the line of railway which runs right across Italy, connecting the

two great lines of the east and west of the peninsula. It leads us from

the Campanian plain, with at least its sheltering wall of mountains,

with Tifata to guard the great city that once was from the ruder land

beyond, to the great plain of Apulia from which every feature of a

mountain-land has passed away. But, in so crossing from one side of

Italy to the other, we pass through a striking and an historic region.

We are in the land of the mightiest Italian rivals of Rome, the land

of those with whom Rome had to fight, before Pyrrhos and Hannibal came,

and ages after Pyrrhos and Hannibal were gone.

Our course leads us into the heart of the Samnite land, a land which

may well call up endless musings on the hard fate of those "hearts of

steel" who bore up so long against Rome, in the days when Rome was

really at her greatest. And the memories of the same land in after

days are not wholly alien to those of earlier times. Our course brings

us, at not a few points, across the memories, if not of nations, yet

of men, who had to bear up against the power of Rome, when the power

of Rome had taken a far other form than that of the senate and the

armies against which the Samnite had to strive. For the old Samnite

land holds its place in later story, as the land of princes who felt

what the spiritual Rome could do when the powers of the spiritual

Rome were at their highest. We pass through regions which were the

scene of no small part of the history of the Norman and Swabian lords

of Sicily and Southern Italy. We are deep in the land of the counts,

dukes, kings, and emperors of the house of Hauteville and the house

of Hohenstaufen; and we are often called on to stop and track out

their deeds. At not a few points do we light on some building, some

inscription, which brings up the memory of Frederick, the Wonder of

the World, and of Manfred, whose field of overthrow we shall presently

pass by. In both periods the history of these lands has a character

altogether different from that of Northern and Central Italy. In the

later period this needs no proof: we are dealing with the history of

a kingdom, not with the history of a system of separate cities. But

something of the same difference extends to the earlier period also. If

we wish to know more of Volscians and Hernicans, yet more keenly do we

wish to know more of Samnites. The part which they played is greater,

at all events in scale, and their dealings with Rome belong to a stage

of Roman history when we feel that we have a kind of right to know

more than we could hope to know in the earlier time. But while we know

something of the character of the Samnite people as a whole, while we

know something--though much less than in some other Italian lands--of

the geography of the Samnite country, we have no clear notion of the

political position or the political action of any particular Samnite

city or canton, such as we ever and anon do get of particular cities

of Etruria and Latium. And again, it is seldom that we can call up

any distinct personal conception of any Samnite leader as a living and

breathing man. This is indeed a grievance which affects Samnites along

with the other Italian enemies of Rome. The personal conceptions which

we do get of Etruscans and Latins largely belong to legendary times. Of

historical Volscians we know very few. And we have already complained

on Hernican ground that we cannot picture to ourselves the personal

likeness of any single Hernican of independent Hernican days.

Still, on this particular journey we have small right to complain;

for we pass by the spot which calls up the memories of the most

memorable Samnites of whom we have any personal knowledge. They are

men of one name, most likely therefore of one house, and men of whom

we emphatically wish to know more than we do know. Leaving Caserta

behind, glancing at the Campanian plain and the Campanian mountains,

marking Naples only by the smoke of the distant city, we pass along

through what, in our simplicity, we take to be the vale of Vulturnus,

till we light on a more classical friend, armed with a more classical

map, who explains that the stream which we are tracing is in strictness

not Vulturnus himself, but only his tributary Calor. Anyhow we go

along its course into the heart of the Samnite land, and we pass by

one spot--a spot which we ought to have treated better than merely to

pass it by, a spot round which the greatest memories of Samnite history

gather, and where they strangely interweave themselves with wholly

different memories of the history of our own land. We reach Telesia,

the home of the Pontii, and we remember that Telesia was also for a

moment the home of Anselm. Our guide-book provokingly fails us; but

the large building on the hill-side must surely be the monastery where

he sojourned. There are Roman antiquities in the place; for Samnite

antiquities we do not look. But did Samnites build no walls, or do the

mighty bulwarks of Cori and Segni mark an earlier state of things than

the Sabellian occupation of Southern Italy? Anyhow, we are here at the

place which has attached itself as a surname to the two most memorable

men in the scanty personal history of Samnium. Here, on his own

ground, we remember that Gaius Pontius who spared Rome's army at the

Caudine Forks, and who lived to be led, twenty-seven years later, as a

spectacle in a Roman triumph, to end his days, one might almost say as

a martyr, by the axe of the headsman in a Roman dungeon. So we used to

read the tale in our youth; so moralized the historians of our youth

over the special baseness which handed over such a man to such an end.

Or are we to adopt the new reading of the tale which at least saves

Quintus Fabius Maximus from that special stain of blood-guiltiness

which cleaves to the canonized memory of Divus Julius? It may be

well if we can believe that one of the worthiest heroes of the old

commonwealth, if he could not forestall the magnanimity of Pompeius and

Aurelian, at least did not sink to the special and petty spite of the

murderer of Vercingetorix. We are now taught that the Gaius Pontius

who appears twenty-seven years after the first mention of that name,

is most likely not the same man as the merciful victor of the Caudine

Forks. If this be so, then Quintus Fabius, in consigning his Pontius

to the axe, merely conformed to the cruel custom of his nation, without

the further aggravation of slaying in cold blood one who had dealt with

Rome so nobly. And after all some might hint that the oldest Pontius

of all was the wisest. It may be that the sage old father of Gaius

knew human nature best, when he bade his son either to massacre the

whole Roman army or else to let them go free without terms. It may be

that the son chose a more dangerous path than either, when he took to

diplomacy and middle courses.

But if the earlier Pontius of Telesia should prove--though the guess

is a simple guess--to be in truth two Pontii, perhaps a father and a

son, no doubt seems to have fixed itself on the identity of the last

Pontius at the Colline gate of Rome. The rising again of Samnite life

at the last moment of all, when the war with the allies seemed to have

lost itself in the deeper whirlpool of the war of Marius and Sulla,

is really the most striking thing in the whole history, such as we

have it, of the Samnite people. We are taken by surprise when, in

days when Rome already seems the fully established head, not only of

Italy, but of all the Mediterranean world, her power, her very being,

is threatened by the leader of a nation which seemed to have been dead

and buried for some centuries. But, just like the Volumnian tomb in

one way, so the Samnite resurrection in another way is a witness to

the real life which the other states of Italy kept on under a form

of Roman dominion which made them externally dependent, which threw

its influence into the scale of oligarchy in their external affairs,

which ever and anon subjected them to some irregular demand, but which

left the general course of their lives to be whatever they themselves

chose it to be. In the days of Marius and Sulla, Etruscans and Samnites

were still Etruscans and Samnites; they had not become Romans, nor had

they merged their being in any common name of Italians. The Social War

itself was the first attempt at forming a general Italian nationality.

But the last campaign of the last Pontius shows how deep, in Samnite

hearts at least, was the earlier feeling, the feeling which knew

no greater whole than the federal union of Etruria or Samnium. It

shows too how specially deep was the feeling of hatred for the single

city which had brought down so many cities and leagues to become its

helpless dependents. Against Pontius at the Colline gate Rome fought

for life, as she had never fought since the old days when she had to

guard herself against enemies who lived within sight of her capitol.

Foreign invaders, Pyrrhos, Hannibal himself, did not come with the

same fixed purpose of rooting up the wood which sheltered the wolves of

Italy. We can hardly doubt that it is the hand of Sulla which from that

day to this has hindered the south of Italy from being like the north.

But the blow which crushed the Samnite people as the other nations of

Italy were not crushed, was vengeance taken for a moment when it once

more became a question whether Rome should rule over Italy, whether

Rome should exist at all.

At Telesia we look out, and muse on what might have been, if one

Pontius had done otherwise than he did by the forks of Caudium, if

another Pontius had fared otherwise than he fared at the gates of

Rome herself. At our next halting-place we are called on, not to muse

on what might have been, but on what was. At Beneventum we tread the

battle-ground of Pyrrhos and Manfred, the ground of two of the greatest

victories of the Rome of the earlier and the Rome of the later day.

There we need not strive to call up the dim figures of men, like the

older and the later Pontius, known by one action of their lives. The

Epeirot and the Swabian stand out as clearly discerned figures in the

history of their several ages. And the places where we next halt will

show us the place of overthrow for both, the place of death and utter

ruin for one.

Studies of Travel: Italy · 第 14 / 20 题