ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then
breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start.
The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate,
and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and
before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again
by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the
boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a
man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She
was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and
dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in
that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps
she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible--the heat
was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of
wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our
boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once
for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy
thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad,
were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade
through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when
I got to Ruosi, where, in spite of present dripping condition, we all
bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain
had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very
tired and foot-sore.
_Wednesday, October 20th._--I was very glad of a good excuse for a
thoroughly quiet day, and this was given me in a perfect downpour of
rain, which continued without cessation until past midday, and I could
not possibly get out. It cleared, however, in the evening, and I got out
to church and to my Catechumen class, after which we had our usual
secular singing. These Wednesday evenings are certainly looked forward
to, but they do not satisfy me that much is taught by them. The people
are very slow at picking up new things, and except occasionally are far
from enthusiastic about the performance, yet I suppose they enjoy it or
they would not attend in such numbers. I was perfectly inundated
afterwards by people coming to wish me good-night. Shaking hands has
become quite an institution here now, and you cannot meet or quit anyone
except the process of hand grasping be gone through. However, it is a
good step to the right direction and I give so much encouragement to it
that my own arm runs the risk often of being wrung off.
_Thursday, October 21st._--Busy here all the morning, and having got
very hot and tired with what I was doing, I came to get my towel to go
for a bathe, when lo and behold, down came the rain in a perfect
torrent, and I had to swallow my disappointment and stay at home.
However, I started again at my picture gallery, and got a good deal
done. I must try and finish it at some future time. It is a source of
immense diversion to not a few, and some of the boys are never tired of
coming to find out what the pictures mean. I was not very well all day,
and after the Catechumen Class was very glad to retire for the night.
_Friday, October 22nd._--Was very sick all the morning, and went to
Ruosi to try and drown my cares in the river, but was only partially
successful. Came back appetiteless to an uninviting dinner, and did not
feel equal to much during the evening.
_Saturday, October 23rd._--Very busy all day with preparations for
to-morrow. Anthony came to make final arrangements about his Candidates.
Determined to go to “Naruru” for the ceremony. Was not well all day, and
everything seemed a business. Final class with Catechumens.
_Sunday, October 24th._--A very full but an exceptionally joyous day. We
had school before breakfast, but that meal followed directly after. Then
came Mattins. Then, followed by all the male population of Tanrig, I
went to Naruru. The house there being very small I determined to have
the Baptism out of doors. I would have gone to the river-side but it was
too far. While Anthony and the others were getting ready the place and
the Font, I said a few final words to the Candidates, who were already
well prepared. Anthony’s wife was among the number, and a fine,
intelligent young woman she is. There were nine Candidates in all, and
the service was a very solemn and impressive one. It was the first time
I had ever Baptized anyone in the open air, but a great deal of
solemnity was not lost by it. The whole service went very nicely, and I
hope the Candidates were fully alive to the importance and dignity of
the occasion. When it was over I said a few words to the Congregation
and Baptized, and soon after we hastened home, having another Baptism at
Tanrig. During my absence A. P. Huqe had made a most chastely pretty
Font, and brightened up the Church with flowers, &c., until it looked
quite charming. The Baptism took place in the evening, and seeing that
there were as many as twenty-eight Candidates it was not a short
service. It passed off very nicely, and I think made a great impression.
I preached afterwards, and told them that this would be my final Baptism
for some time to come, and urged them all to remember their Baptismal
vows and to try and live more and more up to them, by the grace of God.
Tanrig is now a Christian village, and the number Baptized here is
considerably over a hundred. There are suburbs, however, which are still
lying in comparative heathen darkness, and these we shall now have time,
please God, to attack. There is much rejoicing here to-day, and a fresh
start has again been made. I have Baptized thirty-seven people to-day,
and I thank God and take courage.
_Monday, October 25th._--General holiday, and great Christening Feast at
Ruosi. All the world turned out from here, and we were joined by many
from Naruru. Four large pigs were slaughtered, and a prodigious quantity
of yams and taro prepared. It was a most lovely day, and the sunshine
overhead seemed to have found its way into every heart, for there was
the greatest harmony and good will manifest on all sides. Men and women
shared the burden of the day alike, and the result in the evening was a
most grand spread of perfectly cooked food, more than sufficient for
all the great number present. All shared alike, and the females had
great junks of pork as well as the men. Formerly the women ate very
little animal food, but now Christianity has broken down the middle wall
of partition, and taught them that all are One in Christ. We came home
in the evening, and dinnerless I had to go to bed with an attack of ague
which lasted me far on into the hours of midnight. I did not go to
Prayers, and indeed I don’t know what happened. There was a dance, I
believe, but I didn’t hear anything of it.
_Tuesday, October 26th._--Very weak and seedy all day--did not go out
anywhere. However, I had lots of little things to do here at home, and I
busied myself over them. Visitors from Uta came in the evening. The
people told me they wanted to take away one of our women whose husband
is just dead, but I refused and told them they had women enough already.
They were very frightened I believe, and I don’t care, I trust they
were, for I meant what I said. They are quite enough as they are to live
and die in heathen darkness, while here the poor woman will have a
chance at all events of hearing and living.
_Wednesday, October 27th._--Beautiful day, but I was not particularly
well to enjoy it. I was up betimes though, and got through our morning
duties before breakfast.
Perhaps this is not a wise plan, but it is more convenient and therefore
I submit to it. You certainly get leisure and quiet afterwards, which
one would fail to secure previously to Prayers and school. I like to
give the people every opportunity of getting away early to their
gardens, and therefore, perhaps, I sacrifice myself. Many people could
not stand this going without breakfast so long, but it is a meal I was
never very hearty at, and the want of which very strangely I feel the
least.
Our “Bush” friends brought down some prints for sale this morning, and
there has been a tremendous competition for them. There were six yards
of Turkey red handkerchief stuff, which were finally bought by a young
married lady, “Ann,” for a large pig. The Bushmen still go
“clothesless,” and returned Labourers find a ready market here for their
linen goods, which they bring home from Queensland or Fiji. Pigs are of
much more value to them, for of course they still keep up the old native
custom of purchasing rank by means of these animals, while here now they
are only looked upon as so much meat. I have been long trying to get a
proper hold on these people, but I cannot flatter myself that I have yet
succeeded very far. They live a long distance off, and the road is very
inaccessible, but I trust in time they may be reached from hence. They
are very amiable and very friendly, but they are somewhat terrified at
anything new. However, they come here very often, and I don’t think they
go away unprofited.
_Thursday, October 28th._--Fine day with strong fresh Trade wind
blowing. I was busy all day here at home doing little odds and ends of
things preparatory to my anticipated visit from Mrs. Selwyn. The people
were all away busy at their gardens, and I was left alone most of the
day. I could not find time to get to Ruosi, so I went without my
customary dip in the river.
The people were all back in the evening, and their lively chatter and
merriment were a pleasing contrast to the ghostly stillness which had
reigned throughout the day. We had Prayers late because the people were
late with their dinner.
_Friday, October 29th._--Not a very fine day, and threatening for rain.
Directly after school the people were away to their gardens, but three
or four boys were working for me here. They felt the slight shock of an
earthquake, but I did not perceive it. The undivided opinion here is
that earthquakes are the precursors of rain, and often indeed I have
known it so to result, but it seems rather an extraordinary law to lay
down. However, there are abundant signs of a no very distant downpour,
and the prophets may have a chance of being right in their present
conjecture. We were very busy all day, but towards evening snatched time
enough to go to Ruosi for a bathe. The rain kept off well, but there was
a sprinkle in the evening, and evident signs of a great deal more before
very long. I have felt the heat here very oppressive for the last few
days, and by the appearance of the sky we must soon have some dirty
weather with thunder.
_Saturday, October 30th._--The storm came on us with a vengeance this
morning at daylight, and kept on for a long time. At times the flashes
and thunder peals seemed simultaneous, and the crashes were peculiarly
heavy. I have never known a more severe storm in the Tropics, and as for
the rain it simply poured down in torrents.
I did not get up till late, and Mattins were later than usual. However,
being a holiday it did not so much matter. In my house it was as dark as
night, and all day it has been very sombre and dull. Rain has kept on
continuously all the time, and it has been impossible to move out. The
people, however, in spite of wet and dirt are up and about, and do not
seem to mind the weather. Many here, indeed, prefer the rain to the sun
for making journeys and doing certain works. Rain does not seem to give
them cold or ague, and I suppose that custom has become second nature.
I could not get out all day except to my duties, and these wet days at
home are somewhat trying, especially when you are anxious to be about.
It was somewhat finer in the evening at Prayer time, and we had a good
congregation, but it did pour down while we were at service, and this
gave us a good excuse for a long singing practice.
_Sunday, October 31st._--Another wet and intensely disagreeable day.
However, there were spells of fine weather, and during those we
performed our duties. School came first with a full house, the elder
classes saying the Collect for the day and the Church Catechism, and
answering questions on the former, the juniors reading from school books
and large printed sheets. When school was over I was quite prepared for
breakfast, and eschewed rice for once in a way for prawns which the boys
brought me. Sometime after breakfast we had Mattins, a very nice service
and especially well attended. I experienced much distress of mind from
the illness of my friend “Virelumlum,” the Opa chief who came over with
me. He has been very ill all day with acute inflammation of the lungs,
and we have had to keep hot water applications going, off and on, all
day. He moans for home, too, and there is no chance of getting him
there. While at Opa, A. P. Huqe was so ill, and here now I have my other
visitor a patient on my hands. In the evening I was down myself with
ague and could not go to Church, and had no dinner.
_Monday, November 1st._--Terribly stormy, rough night, and a most
unpleasant day, the disagreeableness of which was not decreased by the
continued serious illness of my visitor Virelumlum. All day yesterday
and again to-day it has been a continual anxiety and care to me, and I
have been dabbling about in the mud and wet dancing attendance upon him.
He has quite a serious attack of inflammation of the lungs, and I have
had to keep hot flannels going almost continuously, and rack my brains
to find out what to give him to keep up his rapidly decreasing strength.
In addition to his sickness he has developed a craving for home, and a
strong impression that he is going to die here, which with natives
sometimes is actually equivalent to mean that they will not recover, and
when a native makes up his mind to die, he in most cases does die. There
is no remote possibility of getting my friend home in such weather as
we are having, and he is killing himself with worry. If the weather were
fine I would willingly take him across to Opa in my boat, but that is
scarcely possible in a gale of wind and a downpour of rain. On the whole
it has been a most anxious and unpleasant day. Being “All Saints’” Day I
gave an address in the evening instead of School, and no one, I fancy,
was sorry to be indoors out of the cold and wet. I had to paddle off
after every one was quietly within doors to feed my patient and make him
comfortable for the night.
_Tuesday, November 2nd._--A most terrible night, wherein it blew with
almost hurricane violence in the squalls, with a perfect deluge of rain
accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. I was not sorry or
ungrateful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. My
first business when I got up, was to trudge off to my patient, whom,
thank God, I found better, but all day long since I have had to look
after him, for he is no exception to the idiocy of all natives, who when
they feel a bit better, rush off and do some extraordinarily foolish
thing. It was a terrible day throughout, and I was so fortunate in
keeping my man within doors, that this evening he was visibly on the
mend, and likely to make a good and I hope a rapid recovery. I read him
a most strong lecture this morning about his craving for home, and told
him he could not possibly get there in this weather, and that he was
better where he was even if he could. I said he never would recover if
he went on distressing himself about getting home, and told him that he
was killing me too, by continually crying for what he could not possibly
obtain. And what a lot of spilt milk I have cried over these last few
days in my regret at having brought a big man here at all. But the
inutility of weeping is more apparent to me than his crying for home is
to him. I can hardly say what I have done to-day either to benefit
anyone else or myself. This evening I have turned away from my dinner,
leaving it untasted, and I feel that I must go to bed.
_Wednesday, November 3rd._--An attack of ague last night has made me
feel weak and good for nothing this morning. However, I had to get up,
and the prospect outside was as dismal as ever. Rain and wind and
gloominess. My patient, thank God, is most decidedly better, and if he
takes care of himself will do very well now. I have had a fire in my
house all day, and with Dr. Codrington’s book on the Melanesian
languages, have got on very pleasantly. I should like, however, to see a
little sunshine, and one has a right to expect it now in the height of
summer. I am dreadfully afraid Mrs. Selwyn’s visit to me will be
impossible, when the ship arrives the roads will be so impassable.
Towards evening it cleared a bit and I was able to move out, but
generally speaking, everyone has been kept close prisoner to-day. The
people who always seem to me to love paddling about in the wet,
expressed a strong disinclination to move from their houses, and in the
absence of other occupation or amusement, have been asleep most of the
day I fancy. A native’s capacity for sleep is unbounded, and perhaps a
fortunate thing for him, but he can wake at any time, day or night, and
get up straight away. We had our usual Evensong and singing class, the
weather keeping fairer until we had all got indoors again in our several
houses, when down came the rain. There is a sweet, lulling, comfortable
sound in rain when you are safe indoors, or perchance in bed, and sleep
seems to come unwooed. I practice here what I seldom do anywhere else,
read in bed, and far on in the stillness of the solemn night, I read on
and on with keen enjoyment and a sense of rest, for one gets tired of
sitting in a land devoid of easy chairs and sofas. The usual posture of
a native is to squat on his heels or else to recline, naturally our high
seats are foreign and uncanny to them. I cannot myself squat for any
length of time, and at times I sigh for the comfort of a good easy
chair.
_Thursday, November 4th._--Very wet, dispiriting morning, and
threatening for another stormy day. It cleared off, however, and barring
showers we have had a fine day.
A most interesting ceremony took place here to-day called “uli meroana,”
(_i.e._ “untieing war.”) The event ought to have come off long ago, but
the chief actors in the sad drama which led to its necessity have been
somewhat dilatory. Sometime since the natives of “uta” (the inland as
distinguished from the shore) attacked a village in our district and
killed three people. They were the agressors and the sole actors--the
people did nothing but pack up their goods and clear out, some flying in
one direction and some in another. The majority took refuge in this part
of the island and have never done anything in the way of retaliation,
but have always gone armed since and been on the alert, not with the
object of revenging their injuries, but from fear of further attack.
However, thank God, all has been quiet since, and the Uta people have
the fire coals so heavily heaped on their head, that being first in
agression they have been the first to make amends. They came down
yesterday in great numbers, all armed, of course, and bringing three
pigs with them. Our people were all present too, very fully armed, and
also bringing three pigs. The chief man on the Uta side and the attacker
stood out in the open with his pig, and the chief among the injured
stepped out, and walking around the pig took it from the other, first
passing his hand over the pig’s back and head and the rope he was held
with, and then delivering the scape pig to the injured. This was done
thrice, _i.e._ with each several pig. Then the ceremony was changed to
our side and the like performance gone through, and the pigs delivered
one by one to the attackers. There was thus a mutual exchange and no one
was the loser, indeed so far from it that had the pigs been made for the
occasion and cast in the same mould, they could scarcely have been more
of a size, shape, and colour. It would seem, according to our ideas, as
if the aggressors ought to have paid all the pigs without receiving any
in exchange, but no, native custom seems to be different, and a fair
exchange must be made. After the pigs had been delivered, there was some
speechifying and a good deal of after talkey-talkey, and the quondam
enemies became the best of friends. I hope they will continue so, I am
sure, and I think they will. I made a little speech, in which I
glorified peace and good-will, and denounced fighting and bloodshed. I
have never seen such a concourse of people in Maewo, certainly, and the
place perfectly bristled with guns and poisoned arrows. The natives,
although they seem somewhat careless with these weapons, are really very
careful, and an accident seldom or never happens through carelessness. I
do not like the poisoned arrows, and keep clear always of them, for the
smallest prod from one would most probably prove fatal. Very soon the
vast concourse had dispersed, and the pigs, the mediators, were escorted
off to their new places of residence, but I do not fancy they felt the
weight of the aggressor’s repentance, or the forgiveness of the
attacked. A small coal of inward anger would very soon kindle again the
blaze of war, for after all I fancy there is not much love lost between
the two parties. With one of my Opa boys I came back here to get my
towels, and then made a start for Ruosi and Kerepei, being anxious to
bathe, and also to see the road the boys have made for Mrs. Selwyn’s
feet to tread in. I must say after my observation of it, that if her
anticipated visits everywhere have the same effect of causing people to
mend their ways, she may well be satisfied with her trip down here. The
road was not good before, neither is it perfect now, but the boys have
certainly made a most passable track, the question is whether a lady
can manage the first steep climb. In anticipation of this, they have
strained a strong climbing reed, like the rail of a balustrade, and by
this it is hoped she may be able to ascend. The road otherwise is now
very good. A delicious bath at Ruosi was made doubly delicious by some
days’ privation, and my present liquid condition.
We got home here in the evening, and I dined very late, but with much
more of an appetite than I have had for some time. In the evening A. P.
Huqe being laid up, I gave an address at Evensong, instead of school.
_Friday, November 5th._--The glorious 5th November, Guy Fawkes, of
unhappy memory! Very wet night, but fairly fine day. People very busy
to-day, so they asked me to relinquish school, which I did. I made
preparations for photographing a pretty part of the river, but the rain
came down and I had to give it up. However, my dry plates are at an end,
and the few I have left I must keep for a peradventure of something good
before I leave.
_Saturday, November 6th._--Squally, unsettled sort of day, after a very
rough night. Great preparations were being made here in the morning, for
the Bishop’s and Mrs. Selwyn’s advent. When it was done I went with the
boys to Ruosi, where I sat and watched their sports and gambols in the
water, and thought how the one touch of nature makes the whole world
kin. Human nature and boy nature is the same everywhere, and these boys
are just like every other boy except in colour. They had a great spur of
fun and frolic, and boy-like pleasure produced no languor or
tediousness. I made a descent to “Wosawosa,” and looked in vain for the
ship.
Back and dined, and everything as usual.
_Sunday, November 7th._--The Mission schooner arrived with all on board
well. After Morning Prayer I went down to the vessel, but it was too
dirty for Mrs. Selwyn to come up to the village, but in the evening Mr.
Cullwick came back to Tanrig and spent the night with me. The account of
the work in the islands farther North, was very cheering, and it had a
fresh and charming meaning, as told by Mrs. Selwyn in the full
enthusiasm of her first voyage into these new but beautiful regions. The
evening services in our little native Church was a sad and solemn one,
for I said my public farewell to the people, in prospect of my leaving
them for a long time, inasmuch as it was decided for me to go to
England. Mr. Cullwick was very much struck with the beauty of the
service, and the devotion of the worshippers. When we bid them “Good
night” they all said, “Ah! this will be the last good night for a long,
long time.”
_Monday, November 8th._--The Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came to stay with me
at Tanrig. It was fortunately a most beautiful day, and Mrs. Selwyn,
partly carried and partly on foot, made the journey without any great
fatigue. Of her visit, she herself no doubt will write.
_Tuesday, November 9th._--We stood across to Opa, distant about
twenty-five miles from this part of Maewo. The people were in floods of
tears at the final parting, and a general wail went up from all, as the
boat drew off from the shore. At Opa we anchored for the night.