went to Prayers in a perfect downpour of rain. After Church there were
great searchings of heart among the elders, and I publicly announced
that I wanted the names of those who wished for Baptism. To the surprise
of everybody, and to the delight of not a few, four women stood up and
said almost simultaneously “Inew” (I). These quiet, demure creatures,
generally so terribly afraid of the men, and always so shy in public,
must have been influenced by a stronger Power than any they had hitherto
known to make this public profession, and it produced no small sensation
on all present. Two men also said they wished to be admitted to the
Sacred Rite, and I hope they will soon be followed by many more. Charles
Tariqatu’s influence here is great, and the fruits of his thorough and
earnest teaching are beginning to be felt. He is so thorough and good
himself, that his example and influence have all the more effect. There
will be about twenty to be baptized on Sunday, the nucleus I trust, of a
good Christian population hereafter.
_Thursday, September 23rd._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day.
Fortunately there was a great festivity here, and I was not left without
something to do all day. I trust I did not spend quite an unprofitable
time. I begin to see distinct light through my work here now, and I can
see how the seed sown through long years is at last beginning to bear
fruit. I am eminently satisfied with the work of the boys here, and I
can see that Charles’s influence pervades everything. One man to-day,
who never has taken much interest in our teaching, came to ask me if
Martin Ta[¨n]abei might not come back from Norfolk Island, and live with
him and his people as teacher. Another told me that my words to him of
former years have quite changed the course of his life, and no doubt he
is as different as possible to what he formerly was. I was under
engagement to go to Tahimamavi, but when we were launching the boat the
rain came down in such torrents that I reluctantly turned back. The
evening was as bad as the day, and most uncomfortable it was in my
leaking, cold house. We had Evensong with a good congregation, but a
great gust of wind put out the principal lamp in the very middle of the
service, and made it somewhat dismal.
_Friday, September 24th._--Fine bright morning and a very hot day.
Having failed to go to “Tahimamavi” yesterday I resolved to go instead
this morning. We had a hot, but a most pleasant row up the coast about
three miles, and found the people awaiting our arrival. They had been
disappointed that we did not come yesterday, but supposed that the rain
was the occasion of our failing in our promise. Such a nice number of
bright boys assembled for school, and a great many grown-up people. The
boys were divided into two classes, and two of the boys taught them
their letters. The older men I undertook to teach myself with the help
of Peter. I made a few remarks at first and then told Peter to say a few
words. I was quite unprepared for what followed. It is not often I have
seen such an effect on a native audience, and his flow of natural
eloquence from beginning to end quite held the men enchained. With a
great deal of energy, and a vast amount of earnestness, he went into the
thick of his subject, and left an impression which I feel sure must,
under God, have a good effect. At the end of his remarks he said very
modestly, “You may perhaps think it presumptuous in me to stand here in
your presence and speak like this, you who are old enough to be my
fathers, and so high in rank all of you as to look upon me as a mere
nonentity, and indeed I am amazed at my own audacity. But I speak about
things of so momentous import that I take the chance of your
displeasure, and submit myself to whatever verdict you may choose to
return. Were I only concerned about things which belong to our heathen
state, I should take the place of a humble listener and you should do
the talking, but here all is different, for out of the abundance of the
heart the mouth must speak, and that heart and mouth, thank God, are
mine.” There was not even an assent of approval, all were so impressed
with the message delivered so eloquently by a mere boy. I said at the
end, after a long pause, for I did not like to break the spell which
seemed to hold them all, “Our son has spoken good words to you which I
hope you will not soon forget.” And they all said, “Who can forget
them?” I was also much pleased with the way the boys had got on with
their reading after so few lessons, and altogether I felt that a “great
door and effectual had been opened here,” for which I was most thankful
to Almighty God. Now it remains but to put a good teacher there, and I
think a wide harvest may by God’s blessing be soon gathered in. We came
back with a fair wind in the afternoon, and in the evening again we had
torrents of rain. However, we had our full complement at Prayers, and a
very nice time afterwards.
_Saturday, September 25th._--I had intended to-day to have gone to
Walurigi, but it set in to a wet day, and I was obliged to stay at home.
However, I had a succession of visitors, and among them some Bushmen
from a long way inland. The boys told me some odd stories about them,
how ignorant they formerly were and what strange things they did in
consequence. When they first came down to the sea they fancied it was
hungry, because the surf came rolling in, as they said, “mouth wide
open.” They therefore gave it food to eat. Knowing only the taro root,
when first getting possession of a yam, they fancied it was firewood and
put into the fire. Some many years ago they came down here in quest of a
pig, and while waiting in the gamal their eyes caught sight of a tin
with the picture of a lobster outside. Thinking this was something very
wonderful they stole it, and marched off homewards with it instead of
their pig. Arriving at their village home the chief made a great feast
for it, and placed it in the midst of the village dancing ground, and
went through the various ceremonies as if it were a pig in verity. The
ceremonies over, the chief advanced to the tin, and with his foot,
squashed up the tin as if he was treading the life of a pig out, with
the inevitable result that he almost cut his foot off. Now-a-days of
course they are more enlightened, and the men who were here to-day I
found very amiable and intelligent. All “salt water” natives despise
Bushmen, and they have always stories to tell of them. There is somehow
a natural feud existing between them, but the agression I must say,
comes generally from the Bushmen. They do, certainly, very unaccountable
things, but they are always forgiven, and their conduct explained by
saying, “Oh, they are only Bushmen,” or as they say here “(Taute).” A
small vessel passed here in the afternoon, and anchored off M. Moussu’s
place “Ia[¨n]a[¨n]qa.” In the evening there was the greatest excitement, the
boys returning from fishing saw a boat under sail coming down the coast,
and the general idea was that it was Mr. Brittain. I was led into the
swim, and made active preparations for his reception, but he never
turned up, the sail belonged to some other boat.
Heavy rain and strong wind squalls again in the evening.
_Sunday, September 26th._--A day which will ever be memorable to me,
here at Tavolavola. To-day I Baptized twenty-five people, and it has
been indeed a day of great spiritual enjoyment to me. Before I was up in
the very early morning, I heard boys in the school house reading their
baptismal service over, and all through the day there are some who have
never had their books out of their hands. The teachers have done their
part most admirably, and I thank God for such earnest children. We had
school before breakfast, and a most excellent school too. I went from
class to class leaving A. P. Huqe to discourse the older men. The boys,
nothing daunted by my presence, kept their instruction going, which was
generally very thorough and good. The earnestness of all was quite
remarkable. After school and breakfast we had Morning Prayers, a nice
hearty service, and after that we started by boat for “Tahimamavi.” Here
we found the people awaiting us, and soon we were assembled for school.
Charles gave the old men a very good and eloquent address, and three
other classes were provided for. On our way home we stopped for a few
minutes to learn the news from the schooner at anchor, but they had none
except that the French troops were still at Port Sandwich, and did not
intend to move at present, and moreover, that the Mail Steamer had a
contract to come as far North as that Port. This does not look like
clearing out of the group, and the Captain told me they had not the
least intention of moving at present. Before long we shall know the fate
of these islands, but I sincerely trust they may not fall into the hands
of the French. In the afternoon I was most pleased to see the teachers
selecting boys and youths, more especially connected with them by ties
of kindred, and taking them for a walk and serious talk, as is the
custom at Norfolk Island. Everyone was so filled with enthusiasm that
the chief himself sent to say he wished to be Baptized, but inasmuch as
he has already four or five wives, and contemplates taking more, I could
not listen to his petition for a moment. To put away his wives would
lower him in rank at once, and in the choice between God and Mammon, he
felt the difficulty of putting away any of his women, and I was obliged
to leave him with his god Mammon.
In the early evening we decorated the Font, and when the building was
lit up at night with lots of candles, it looked quite nice. The service
was quite one of the most stirring I have ever taken part in, and the
ready responses one by one, of men and women, produced a great effect on
every one present. The women, generally like poor frightened, startled
creatures, answered out marvellously, with a vigour and earnestness,
such as no one was prepared for. The ceremony of Baptizing twenty-five
people took some time, but no one seemed fatigued, so interested were
they in what was going on. Among the number Baptized were a blind man,
and a blind woman, but they, like the rest, were wonderfully
self-possessed. Poor Diu, whom I called Kate, after Miss Lodge, who had
nursed her so faithfully at Norfolk Island, was perfectly ecstatic in
her delight, and seemed endued with special strength, having risen from
a bed of sickness on purpose to be present.
I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who
spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number
of outsiders present.
We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most
beautiful service.
_Monday, September 27th._--A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I
told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and
happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because
of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual
birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities
was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think
it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our
festivities were shared in by a number of neighbours. Contrary to
strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food
under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the
heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in
the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the
distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well
myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool
of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very
pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness
closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.
_Tuesday, September 28th._--This morning after our duties here, we
started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down
West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is
“Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense
of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here
going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and
so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call
the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term
these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are
going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to
them “Natiulu.”
We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We
hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber,
commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,”
lives.
He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long
as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his
residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years,
and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very
extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &c., and deals
very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very
nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments
served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with
me to the village of the great man of those parts “A[¨n]ga,” or as the
Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and
powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and
pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle
in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are
very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel sure a great deal might
be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow,
his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I
said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go
to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they
were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us
in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we
had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable
quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and
myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it
was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other
delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out
of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and
I acquiesced. The next morning, _Wednesday, 29th September_, it was very
hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a
sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a
warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse
and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would
come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over
and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.
At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to
find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started
soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up.
However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem
much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was
very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit
of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down
till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and
felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt
cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of
mutual interest.
_Thursday, September 30th._--After a night of fever and strong
perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good
deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party
went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon
we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his
garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his
ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a
splendid quantity of green food, which we afterwards enjoyed for
dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and
myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and
mild evening.
_Friday, October 1st._--Fine day. After our morning duties here were
over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time
with the kind-hearted people.
Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which
are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great
hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and
variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European
calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes
to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the
labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except
they get all they ask.
We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner
alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit
for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and
only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt
miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I
could not help it.
_Saturday, October 2nd._--Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr.
Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The
day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they
had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the
kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch
with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but
had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse
enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me
off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of
luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup,
&c., &c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de
mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He
complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when
so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in
his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and
singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was
fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way.
I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for
Sunday.
_Sunday, October 3rd._--Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point
of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very
little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however,
and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had
the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which
these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I
pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they
may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I
trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that
the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a
savour of life unto life.
At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am
somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with
this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things
be allowed to go on as they were before.
Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in
whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient,
God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit
the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.
In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed
with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and
preached.
_Monday, October 4th._--Not very well. I had promised, if well enough,
to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine
day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very
ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot
flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted
a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and
comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he
was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give
him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him
good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed
aguish and shivering.
_Tuesday, October 5th._--We had got through our morning duties, and I
had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting
for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable
_Southern Cross_ close at hand. It was not long before she was at
anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer
on board from some distance off, and when we got alongside, the first
question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was
good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop
and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was
Mrs. Selwyn in _proporia persona_, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I
was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her
by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most
glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our
ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again
ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were
going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my
surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were
very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous
at Norfolk Island.
One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on
board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is
forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under
steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about
8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead,
and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night.
In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the
cool night air ashore.
_Wednesday, October 6th._--On board the _Southern Cross_. The tide did
not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part,
because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together
preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn
went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was
quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too,
was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another
night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However,
I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of
sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on