a fine and brilliant day, but in the forenoon the rain pelted down, and
for some hours we had a glorious downpour. The “blue bottles” gave
indication of this at Prayers and morning school, and I have never known
them in such numbers or so troublesome. One perfectly loathed oneself,
but escape from them was impossible, they crowded my house, which is
generally free from their incursions, and the poor people seemed quite
distracted. This is the great yam planting season, and everyone was away
after school busy at his garden. The heavy rain, however, drove them
home, and some took refuge here with me. Natives are not great hands for
introducing originality into their conversation, nor do they go much
beyond the sight of their eyes, or the hearing of their ears for their
subject matter. Any prominent object which attracts their attention is
made the subject of remark. This is a specimen of the sort of
conversation which goes on. I was writing when my friends came in, “Oh!
you are writing!” “Yes, what else did you suppose I should be doing with
pen, ink and paper?” “Oh! this is a curious tin, what is in it? Meat?”
“You are the 101st person who has asked that self-same question, I
answered the 100 before you with the monosyllabic negative, No, and I
give you the same answer.” “What then is in it? Fish?” “No.” “Fruit?”
“Yes, I hope you are satisfied.” “Oh! I see you have a “kove” (native
flute) up there in the thatch, who gave it you?” “You yourself have
asked that same question ten times before, and I have always given the
same answer, ‘Arthur,’ next time perhaps you will know without asking.”
“You have a bow and arrow there, where did you get them?” “Considering
that every person in the village knows from whence they came, and has
made them the subject of general conversation for weeks, I wonder you
should be the only person ignorant of their origin, especially as you
were here when I brought them from Tasmouri.” This is the style of thing
which goes on, and except that one is glad to accede to any means for
introducing conversation, one would soon weary of it. They themselves do
not seem to mind going over and over again the same conversation, and
wading through the same minutiæ of detail, and they expect one to be
equally patient. The rain gave me a good opportunity of planting my new
fence, and I planted, as a start, a number of oranges around my house.
The evening was fine, and the moon already quite sizeable. We had the
usual singing school after Prayers, with very good success. When the
practice was over, I asked the older men to sing some of their own
songs, and they readily complied. Old blind Daniel is the great leader,
and knows all the songs. There are three parts to the native song, (1)
the person who starts and sings the air as in a Gregorian tone, and then
follows (2) a chorus, then (3) a single voice takes up the air again,
and this is followed by the chorus. The first singer is said to “tau”
the song, the second to “sawu,” and the chorus to “lai.” The songs are
very pretty, and they kept them up with spirit for quite an hour. Some
of the singers beat a weird kind of accompaniment with bamboos, and kept
most excellent time. When the performance was over, it was time to
retire, and soon quietness warned me that it was time for me, too, to be
going to rest.
_Thursday, September 2nd._--How the days seem to chase one another in
ever too hasty flight! It seems no sooner morning than the night is here
again. We tried the experiment to-day of having prayers even earlier
than usual, to be rid of the noxious blue bottles, but only partially
succeeded in anything like freedom from them. At the school subsequently
they were more troublesome, I think, than ever, and it was not an easy
matter to keep one’s own or one’s pupils’ attention, with these hideous
creatures buzzing about. After Prayers and school one is fairly ready
for breakfast, and by the time that is over the day has already worn on
towards Noon.
It is the commencement of planting time now, and the people are very
busy day after day in their yam gardens preparing the soil. It is by no
means easy work, and they certainly make a very good show by the end of
the day.
I always like to get out somewhere if I can every day, for I find my
health is better for the constant out-door exercise. This morning the
people were all going shrimping, and I accepted an invitation to go with
them to a place called ‘Niewotu.’ I had never been there before, and I
was charmed with the picturesque beauty of it. A clear, flowing river is
utilized for the purpose of irrigation, and there one saw again the
quaint little taro beds so deftly laid out, and the showy crotons and
dracænas ornamenting the immediate view, while all round the bush was
thickly matted with innumerable, and almost impenetrable creepers with
masses of white and pink flowers. In the direct foreground one got a
peep of the bright blue sea sparkling in the midday heat. A bathe, and
green cocoanuts were very agreeable and most refreshing. The boon of
abundance of water in these hot countries is inestimable, and this
island is rich in its water supply. Araga again on the other hand is
very badly off, and Opa not much better.
Evening duties as usual, and some hymn singing afterwards.
_Saturday, September 4th._--After Prayers and breakfast, the boys and I
started for a long meditated journey up the coast. It was a most
glorious day, but very hot, the sun scorching down with pitiless heat.
We embarked at Kerepei, sixteen of us all told, and rowed away against
the Trade wind which was blowing strong down the coast. We were a merry
party, and the shore view was very beautiful as we coasted along. From
the point of embarkation to Tanrowo, a distance of eight or ten miles,
there is not a single “salt water” native, and it seems a great pity to
see so much valuable land lying fallow, when it might be utilised for
almost any purpose. As we rounded the Point between us and Tanrowo,
called “Vaturowa,” we saw a vessel at anchor in the distance. The heat
on the water was intense, and I felt myself being scorched about the
face and hands. The natives, hatless and clotheless, did not seem to
mind it, and their exuberant spirits were proof against almost any outer
evil. We saw some people along the coast, and conversed with them at
several places. Arriving at “Beitarara,” we saw a number of people we
knew. We of course asked about the “schooner” at anchor, and they said
they did not know what she was, as she had only just a short time before
come to her anchorage. However, the boat painted red was coming towards
us, and soon we were within speaking distance. I asked where she was
from, and what was her errand. As they came close to us, I heard my name
called, and found myself shaking hands with Captain Martin of the
schooner “Idaho” from Noumea. I met him years ago when he was in charge
of the “John S. Lane,” Captain McCleod owner, and he very kindly then
towed me across from Opa to Pentecost Island. He seemed very glad to see
me, and invited me on board. He now belongs to the “Nouvelles Hebrides”
Company, and was recruiting labour for “Port Sandwich” in Mallicollo.
The Company had bought land here at “Beitarara,” and he just dropped in
to see the people. He was very kind and amiable, and I spent some time
on board, and made some purchases.
The boat then started for our destination, where we found many amiable,
friendly people awaiting us, and although they had sold their land, they
had very hazy notions as to how much had been purchased, or what was to
be done with it. After spending some time with them, we gave them some
presents, and then found it was time to be getting homeward. A strong
favourable breeze took us rapidly to the Kerepei. Arriving at “Ruosi,”
we found a large number of our people awaiting us, with a smoking hot
supper they had cooked for us there. We arrived here tired and sunburnt
just before dark. Evensong followed, and a singing practice for Sunday.
_Sunday, September 5th._--School very early on account of the blue
bottles. I took all the old men into the Church and talked to them
there. They paid good attention, and I hope remembered something of what
they were taught. I tried to explain how God declared His Almighty Power
most chiefly in showing mercy and pity. There were times when He
revealed Himself as a consuming fire, but that was in His attitude
towards sin, but the whole being and essence of God was love. After
breakfast I started with Patrick for “Mandurvat” by way of “Naruru.”
Anthony had already had Morning Prayer, so I did not stay long there,
but pushed on for my destination. It was very hot walking, and I was
very liquid when I arrived at Mandurvat. Sunday travelling here is much
more tiring than week-day work, for you are obliged to respect the day a
little, as regards the clothing you wear. I had not a very large
congregation, and when service was over I asked the reason. The people
then told me that a certain man called “Ala” had “tabu’d” (_i.e._ made
sacred) the school, and prevented the people of his village from
attending service. I protested against this, and when I had said my say,
the plucky young teacher “Tarione” at once went to the village, and
broke the “tabu,” rendering himself liable to a fine of pigs or perhaps
a knock on the head. “Ala” was not at home or I would have gone to see
him. However, I believe Tarione did all I could do, and perhaps more. I
was very much pleased with the way some of the scholars had been taught,
and two females especially, took me quite by surprise. These people have
no baptized teacher, and the efficiency of the school is entirely owing
to the exertion and perseverance of two young men, Tarione
aforementioned and “Livotari.” The latter requested Baptism for himself,
wife and child, and Tarione has previously expressed the same wish. Now
that the tabu is taken off, or at least broken, no doubt the scholars
will increase, but it reflects great credit on these young fellows that
they have built the school themselves, taught themselves to read, and do
their best to teach their people. They are a most friendly, good-natured
people, and act up to their limited light and knowledge. They have
prayers and school every day, and this is very wonderful, when one
considers the few advantages they have had. “Masa,” the leading man of
the district, was present at the service, and was very enthusiastic in
the after conversation. They gave us a sumptuous luncheon of various
kinds of “loko,” and we started for Tanrig when the sun’s rays began
somewhat to decline. At “Naruru” we stopped some time, and I addressed
the people. Anthony afterwards came on with me to Tanrig. Here, in the
evening, I preached on the subject of the Gospel, the Pharisee and the
Publican, and tried to adduce some healthful lessons from the parable.
We were somewhat inclined by nature to think more highly of ourselves
than we ought to think, and not to be sober and humble in our self
consideration. Because we attended service regularly, and were very
accurate in our daily lives, we were apt to despise others around us,
who were not so exact, and were still living heathen lives. When we came
before God, our thought ought not to be of our own worthiness or
goodness in His sight, still less of the depravity and wickedness of
others, but our attitude and our language should be that of our own
utter unworthiness and sinfulness, we should imitate the action and
adopt the words of the Publican rather than that of the Pharisee, and
smite our breasts and say, “God be merciful to me a sinner.” What we
sought from all our services was to go down to our houses justified, and
the only road to justification and righteousness was humility. That was
the only road for white and black people alike, for teacher and taught,
for Priest and people. How many of us would be justified that night? How
many of us were growing day by day in grace, and in the knowledge of
our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ?
_Monday, September 6th._--Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me
and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would
come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The
gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell
him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second
breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo,
and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition.
French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from
Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the
natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board,
another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run
away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen
miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some
depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing,
although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain
promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s
friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay
for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how
truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender
hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives.
As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but
I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave
them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and
there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the
evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers,
our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers
thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.
_Wednesday, September 7th._--Very heavy rain during the night succeeded
this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I
have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my
duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here
seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was
postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper
prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept
busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring
to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compliment possible to be
paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly
was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly
beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto
pig-proof.
The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which
were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was
spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to
partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed,
and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said,
the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too,
disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen,
and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many
were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at
Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was
proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came
and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance
with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was
one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired
nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.
_Wednesday, September 8th._--Another most glorious morning followed by a
very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and
private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant
there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue
bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I
had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive,
and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing
day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The
one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the
soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as
uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and
a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think
what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud
“cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say
“They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it
must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.
However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates,
Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji. He was
photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very
amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of
different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned
again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that
a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’
wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the
ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as
naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among
them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power
more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender
trust in the natives by trusting them.
The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought
over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.
Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with
Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent
an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New
Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as
a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down
here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the
annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some
forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port
Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying
land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to
find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I
hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.
Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.
_Thursday, September 9th._--Another most glorious morning, and a bright
warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I
joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life
easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it.
They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of
us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no
anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily
comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly
wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their
heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly,
amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and
harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or
fifteen went off in search of wild fowl, or any other of the feathered
tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven
alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were
eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were
secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque
scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one
owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These
birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were
partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner
here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the
native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the
distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about
to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I
known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.
After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a
_suburb_ of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till
morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals
to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has
neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me
company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has
left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song
of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one
is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is
audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my
humble couch.
_Saturday, September 11th._--Started this morning after breakfast for
Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place.
This was the _Southern Cross_ from the islands, and before long she came
to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised
to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to
Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they
were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather.
Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I
held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk
Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered
to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her,
but none too early. The news generally, very good.
There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was very severe,
felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a
rock.