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JOURNAL
OF RESIDENCE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES,
S.W. PACIFIC OCEAN.
WRITTEN DURING THE YEAR 1886,
BY
REVDS. C. BICE AND A. BRITTAIN.
TRURO:
NETHERTON AND WORTH, LEMON STREET.
1887.
PREFACE.
I have been induced to publish the following Journals at the request of
some friends who have perused them, and think they will prove
interesting to others. The Journal of the Rev. A. Brittain arrived too
late for insertion in the ‘Island Voyage’ for this year, and I have been
requested by the Rev. William Selwyn, the Secretary of the Melanesian
Mission, to print it with my own. I do this with the greater pleasure,
because his report will not only supply me with a good excuse for
rushing into print, but will furnish others with a more full and
complete account of the work of the Melanesian Mission in the New
Hebrides.
The three islands herein spoken of are the Northernmost of the
above-mentioned group--the New Hebrides--and form the Southern boundary
of the Melanesian Mission work in the islands of the South-west Pacific
Ocean.
Araga (or Pentecost) and Maewo (or Aurora) are long and mountainous
islands running almost North and South, about forty miles each in
length, and separated by a narrow channel three miles wide. Opa (or
Leper’s Island) runs at right angles to these, a broad, massive, grand
looking country, resembling in appearance a huge whale, the hump of
which rises to a height of over 4000 feet.
Araga and Opa are thickly populated, but Maewo has a scattered and
sparse population. Opa is about sixteen miles from Araga, but a channel
of only five miles in width separates it from Maewo.
The languages and dispositions of these neighbouring lands are much more
varied and dissimilar than would naturally be inferred from their close
propinquity. And the majority of the people, too, seem to prefer an
inland situation, all which serve to make the work of the Missionary the
more arduous and difficult. On these islands every outward prospect is
pleasing, and the inhabitants themselves not so far gone in vileness as
to be incapable of improvement, as I hope the following pages will show.
The work of the Melanesian Mission has been established in these islands
a good many years now, with more or less success, and schools are in
active operation as follows:--
At ARAGA--Wonor, on the Southern face of the island, and Lamoru and
Qatvenua on the North.
At MAEWO--Tanrig, Tasmouri, Tasmate, Mandurvat, Naruru, and Uta. All
these stations are on the North of the island.
At OPA--Tavolavola, Lobaha, Walurigi, the most flourishing of which is
that first mentioned.
With these few preliminary remarks and explanations I leave the
following simple pages to tell their own story.
CHARLES BICE.
N.B.--The vowels in the Melanesian languages are pronounced as in
Italian: a = _ah_, e = _a_, i = _e_.
The letter written [¨n] = _ng_ in _singer_; d = _nd_, b = _mb_.
JOURNAL.
_1886._
_Friday, 9th July._--The weather seaward looked very threatening as we
stood on the Pier at the Settlement in readiness to embark. All the
Melanesians, boys and girls, to the number of about 50 had already gone
off to the ship which lay tossing and tumbling at her anchorage as if
anxious to be let free. A considerable number of Norfolk Island friends
were on the Pier, in addition to most of the Members of the Mission, to
bid us Farewell and wish us GOD speed. Many thoughtful little mementos,
too, found their way into our hands from our warm-hearted and well
wishing friends. The process of shaking hands took some time in
execution, but one could not but feel the absence of many who were
unavoidably absent on the occasion. My own little ones were the last to
bid me good-bye, and poor little Walter (my youngest son) was very
tearful. Shortly after, we were all in the boat, and “let go” was called
out. The landing was very smooth, and we got out with very little
difficulty. Besides the Captain, Mr. Turnbull and myself were the only
passengers. It was close upon 5 o’clock p.m. when we got on board, and
some of the passengers had already begun to feel the motion of the
ocean. After things were put into some order and the shore boat
dismissed with Captain Bates and the Norfolk Island crew, the command to
“heave away” was given, and then I saw for the first time the steam
winch at work. Before many minutes the anchor was in its place in the
bows of the ship, and the long process of raising the anchor in old
days, performed by manual labour, reduced to a minimum. We slipped
quietly down the leeside of the island, and had ample time to get into
some amount of order and readiness for a very dirty, rough night.
Opposite the Mission, the boys ashore had lit a large bonfire, and we
could hear their shouts, borne seaward by the raging gale. As night
closed in the sky became very dark and lowering, and we knew full well
what we were to expect. We had dinner while still under the lee of the
island, but before the meal was finished, we were knocking about in the
heavy head gale. Of course any where but at Norfolk Island, where there
is no certain shelter, it would be approaching madness to put to sea
with such a crowd of people in a small ship on a night like this, but
here there is no help for it. Perhaps had we not got away as we did, we
might have been detained another week, from the uncertainty of wind
changes and the insecurity of the anchorages. All night it blew very
heavily, with a nasty head sea. Of course, the wind being very strong
and dead ahead, we made little or no progress, and were in fact hove to.
Most of the passengers spent a very unpleasant night, and the poor
little children, of whom we had four on board, suffered like the others.
The poor boys in the schoolroom had a disagreeable time, owing to the
large amount of cargo on board, in addition to their own luggage. The
_Southern Cross_, however, is a magnificent sea boat, although slightly
lively, and being at sea was, to me at least, the worst of the evils we
experienced that first night. Mr. Turnbull is a good sailor, and he and
I were alone in the saloon. Poor old Manekalea I invited also to sleep
there, on account of his blindness, and I asked Silas Kema to sleep
there and look after him. Poor fellow, his sight seems quite gone, but
he is wonderfully patient and resigned. I think now he begins to feel
that there is no hope of his ever seeing again, and he begins to try and
help himself and get about alone a great deal more than before. The loss
of so young, active, and intelligent a Teacher must be much felt in the
district of Ysabel, formerly under his charge.
_Saturday, 10th._--The wind had abated little, if any, this morning, and
the vessel was making little or no headway. It rained a good deal
throughout the day, and that allayed both wind and sea by evening. Very
few of the boys appeared on deck, and I myself was quite _hors de
combat_. Mr. Turnbull kindly offered to read prayers in English for me
in the Evening, and I managed the Mota with a few who were able to
attend. These first days on board ship are very trying, one feels quite
out of it altogether, and the sea legs are somewhat long in returning
when one has been ashore for any length of time. Towards evening the
weather moderated a little, but there was very little life about the
ship. These unhappy days when one is the victim of _mal de mer_ leave a
very unsatisfactory impression behind them, and if any recollection is
left, it is always painful. I was not actually seasick myself, but I
felt uncomfortable enough for a time, and did not care for ship’s fare.
_Sunday, 11th._--The weather more moderate. I conducted Morning Prayer
both in English and Mota, and generally our passengers were getting over
their indisposition. It was not a very profitable day however to me, for
I could not settle to anything: our Service hours on Sunday, at sea, are
English Mattins at 9 o’clock a.m. and Evensong at 7 p.m. Mota 11 a.m.
and 7.30 p.m. Our daily hours for meals are 8 a.m. breakfast, 12 noon
lunch, 5 p.m. dinner. On Sunday this is slightly changed, and we dine at
1, and tea at 5 p.m. At anchor, too, the English Morning Service is
postponed to 10 a.m., and all the sailors are enabled to attend. Usually
only one watch can be present while the vessel is at sea. This year we
have a crew composed entirely of Englishmen. We have generally had
previously a strong admixture of foreigners. The steward, indeed, is a
German, but he has been with us so many voyages, speaks and reads
English so well, that one quite forgets his nationality. The crew are a
very nice, quiet, well-behaved set of men, and all look so respectable.
I believe the Captain has many applications for billets on board the
_Southern Cross_, she being a popular vessel now-a-days, besides, a trip
in her is a paying affair, for I am told that sometimes the men realize
from £10 to £30 and £40 by the sale of curios alone. The great collector
on board now is John Brown the boatswain, and he has accumulated quite a
museum, which he meditates taking to England for sale next year. Brown
is an old Island Trader, and knows all the specialities of the trade and
what will captivate the native taste. Penny whistles and half-penny
looking glasses, I believe, are the line this trip. There is very keen
competition too on board when the curio fields are reached, chiefly at
Santa Cruz and some of the Solomon Islands. Sunday passed away somewhat
profitlessly, and evening once more closed over a day past and gone. I
did not give the sailors a Sermon, but reserved my efforts for the
Melanesians, many of whom were able to attend. I naturally chose the
subject of the Gospel as the basis of my remarks, viz: the recovery of
the lost sheep and the piece of money, which I applied to the condition
of the heathen to whom we were going, and our duty as seekers of those
who were still wandering upon the mountains and upon every high hill,
with none caring for them or seeking them out. We had some singing after
the service, and the termination of the day at least was pleasant, and I
hope profitable. One’s thoughts naturally wandered away back to Norfolk
Island, and one thought of the quiet peaceful Sunday evenings there, and
the love of those we had left. The vessel was much more at her ease this
evening, and we could undress and rest in bed with more comfort.
It was a great pleasure to me from this time forward, to see the boys
dropping into the cabin one by one to say their prayers, unbidden but
none the less welcome.
_Monday, 12th July._--This morning the wind has moderated very
considerably, and the sea is going down. The vessel moving along much
more gently and easily, sometimes towards our destination. Life on board
is almost utterly devoid of interest or excitement. There is little or
nothing stirring, and out of our element we feel restless and not fit
for much. We begin now however, to fall into ship-shape ways, and things
begin to look a little straighter than they did. The boys are divided
into sets of cooks, and have to take their turn in order to cook and
keep the schoolroom clean. The Melanesians have three meals a day, and
they are supposed to look after their own food, the cook giving
directions as to what he wants doing. After the misery and prostration
of _mal de mer_ have passed off, the boys get very lively, and do not
easily again succumb.
In the evening we had music. Brown the boatswain has a most ingenious
instrument called, I think, the “Cabinetto,” which plays almost any
tune; a piece of perforated paper is turned over a sort of key-board,
like a mouth organ, by means of a handle, and the closed notes are kept
silent, while the open ones speak according to the length of the
perforation. Its tone is somewhat harsh, but the music is very correct,
and there is plenty of it. Brown bought this instrument, which cost him
some £15 or £16, for the special amusement of his young Melanesian
friends. The girls never seem to tire of turning the handle, and the
more it is turned the better the owner seems pleased. Forward there is a
very good concertina, exceptionally well played by one of the sailors, a
banjo played by another, and a tin plate beaten by a third makes a very
fair tambourine. Altogether, the hour between 5 and 6 p.m. is very
lively with strains of music and other enlivenments. The boys most
thoroughly enjoy the music, and are very attentive and enthusiastic
listeners, breaking in with a good chorus when they happen to know any
of the pieces played. At 7 p.m. English Prayers, a shortened form of
Evensong with a hymn, and afterwards full Evensong in Mota with a good
deal of singing. We have many nice voices on board this time, and the
singing is exceptionally good. Owing to the crowded state of the
schoolroom, service is held in the saloon, which is inconveniently small
for the large number who attend. The girls who hitherto have been
prevented from attending, by reason of sea-sickness, this evening put in
a very fairly large appearance. Most Melanesian ladies are bad sailors,
and some never get over the inconveniences of the uncongenial sea
element.
_Tuesday, 13th July._--The weather this morning was somewhat finer, but
still a good deal unsettled. We have failed as yet to get hold of the
S.E. Trades, but are living in hopes that a favourable breeze will soon
waft us onward to our destination. The great excitement this morning was
the smoke of a steamer, which at first we wildly imagined must be the
vessel expected from Sydney to meet us at Norfolk Island, giving us
chase. However, wiser heads, by the direction of the ship’s head and the
course of the smoke, made it out to be the _Rockton_ or some steamer
from Fiji towards New Caledonia. Whatever ship it may have been, the
excitement all ended in smoke. Beyond this, we have had nothing stirring
all day. The moon at night dispersed the clouds, and the concertina
forward enlivened the monotony of the evening. And so has passed another
day, leaving little record of any work done.
_Wednesday, 14th July._--We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood
of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid
ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their
eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no
sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having
been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead
reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not
able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen
about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end
succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had
cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait
is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of
red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the vessel makes
the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the
fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and
peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out
of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their
tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught
to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the
forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand
swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it
was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of
the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go
further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense
with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals
and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no
sight of the sun again to-day.
_Thursday, 15th July._--This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the
first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who
have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna
appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the
volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise.
We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite
smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and
we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call.
Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land,
and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of
their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and
Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was
most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain
wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many
sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian
islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they
are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer
inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not
so thickly wooded as some farther North.
_Friday, July 16th._--Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all
day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening
running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South
end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there
when the ship went back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into
the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began
to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and
on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is
the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all
night, and on
_Saturday, July 17th._--We were early off our place of call, and seeing
no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a
furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this
place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all
right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was
futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and
well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been
educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held
in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their
neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like
the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance
separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is
building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big,
chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and
Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing
with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do
for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of
one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco,
but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are
not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide
was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some
considerable difficulty.
Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’
he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he
first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He
himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare
say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect
when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to
realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm
chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become
apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work,
and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the
Evil one. Poor Tom! I suppose he will try a little at first to stem the
tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor
youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous
and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such.
I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too
rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other
Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers
made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in
vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we
started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr.
Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to
our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very
sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks
and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he
brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the
society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state
of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a
very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We
had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the
evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of
canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same
time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late
years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot.
We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad
start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits
of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar
cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the
shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the
young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at
the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more
bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective
spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all
live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft.
There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those
when we get a bigger ship.
_Sunday, 18th July._--Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives
regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very
little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all
to the ship, and we were able to have an uninterrupted day of rest. Our
services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite,
read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in
the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short
address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the
discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few
anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were
appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that
the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully
bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright
sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything
seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a
giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and
under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and
refreshing.
At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of
all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty,
cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening
and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined
at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore.
This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed
with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the
people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the
clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue
and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on
him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green
rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of
the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat
dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some
semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a
very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a
mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we
found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid
squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and
crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there
seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could
to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child.
The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately
outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the
honoured name of my great friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother
bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own
daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a
cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.
Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only
balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.
We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new
and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old
Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place.
He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing
in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It
does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has
lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind
and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to
school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I
believe.
The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and
wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much
about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent
consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs
and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession
in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one
hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his
name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that
means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I
believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs.
Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world
and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom
one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at
least hereafter.
This is a cheap way at all events of purchasing blessedness and no
wonder they are eager with the small price for it. A fighting man
formerly was looked upon as having more claim to their Walhalla than a
man who refused or who had failed to take blood. This title certainly of
late years has not been so eagerly coveted, and so far it is,
thankworthy, but “when the wicked man turneth away from his wickedness
and doeth that which is lawful and right he shall save his soul alive,”
this last clause as yet is omitted from their programme.
On our way back I could not refrain from paying another visit to the
dying child. There still sat the faithful mother, and there still lay
her pretty child, life was not yet extinct, and she had turned since I
saw her before. I determined when I got off to the ship to try and get
some medicine as a sort of dernier resort. I doubt if medicine will ever
more do any good. We got off to the ship before 5 p.m., and at that hour
had tea, bread and sardines, and cake which the cook had concocted. The
“Cabinetto” was going most of the evening, Brown having thoughtfully
brought some sacred sheets for Sundays. At 7 p.m. we had Evensong in
English and afterwards in Mota with an address on the Gospel, “Be ye
therefore merciful,” “not only were we to ask mercy for ourselves I
said, but we too must extend it to others, and we should find plenty of
opportunity of doing so, in the places to which we were going. If we
only felt for a moment the mercy of God towards us as revealed in Christ
Jesus, we must be merciful to our fellows, and we must show them the
same mercy we had experienced and known in our Saviour’s dealings with
our own souls.”
We had great singing afterwards, which they always enjoy. It was most
resplendent on deck afterwards, and one was thankful for the quiet and
refreshment throughout of the day of rest.
_Monday, 19th July._--Mr. Brittain well enough this morning to go ashore
to collect his things and make arrangements with his teachers. It is his
intention if health permits to stay ashore in Mr. Palmer’s district at
Mota and the Banks’ Islands, but in his present condition such a step
would scarcely be wise. However, time will tell. While he was ashore Mr.
Huggett, the mate, always ready to lend a helping hand, and myself put
the teacher’s things together, and when he came off Mr. Brittain had
nothing to do but give them out according as they had been deserved.
Meanwhile there were crowds of people round about the ship, and much
trading was carried on by the boys and girls on board. They use here
canoes with outriggers, and the larger ones are very clumsy, unwieldy
monsters. The Captain hates the sight of them alongside for they rub the
paint off the ship, and sometimes even damage the copper. In the Solomon
Islands they have no outriggers, and the natives are much more expert in
the management of their canoes, both large and small.
Here at Araga they have a very large number of canoes, but they are very
bad.
We weighed anchor at noon and stood across to Opa and were at anchor at
Tavolavola by about 3.30 p.m.; a very nice breeze took us across, and
on arrival there we made preparations for going ashore at once. I found
matters satisfactory ashore, and the school in full swing, the young
teachers all neatly and nicely dressed.
They were glad to have Charles back again and the women walked off with
his pretty wife, dressed in all her bit of best. She had done a good
deal of weeping between the ship and shore, evidently being very
reluctant to leave her friends on board. Her eyes therefore were
slightly tear bedyed, and her cheeks also, before she got ashore. The
school looked cared for, and I was pleased to see a very nice new house
built for me. The people were very glad to have me back and received me
in their usually cordial fashion. An English Trader had built a house,
and had resided some months near the village, but had lately taken his
departure, why I know not, but I believe there was not trade enough.
There are a number of white men now trading all over the island, the
mystery is how they can make it pay. Monica was very tearful again when
I bid her good-bye, poor girl I dare say she will have a hard struggle
at first among her own country women, but I trust she may have strength
given her to resist the wiles of the Evil one and his agents among them.
She is a pretty, flighty girl, but much improved of late, and became a
great favourite on board. She has a most estimable husband and I hope
she will make him a good helpmeet.
We passed a very pleasant night at the snug anchorage and all the boys
came off to the ship next morning.
_Tuesday, 20th July._--We weighed anchor and dropped down to Lobaha,
about four miles along the coast to the Westward. Here we found Herbert
Arudale well. He came off to the ship with his wife Mary who was not
well. They seem to live much happier now, and both were beaming over
with smiles. He gives but a poor account of his work, which is much in
_statu quo_. The fact is his field is very limited if he must confine
himself to his own people, and it never suggests itself to a Melanesian
to go farther a-field. The mountain must come to Mahomet, for Mahomet
never dreams of going to the mountain. However, now with Didi and his
wife, a most exemplary pair, and seemingly very devoted, they ought to
make a fresh start. Baitagaro I saw ashore and he seems to have
improved, but it must be heart breaking work to labour on year after
year, and get little or no attention to what you say, no appreciation of
the message you bring, and no interest taken in all you endeavour to
do. However, it is what the Man of Sorrows passed through, and it is
what His true followers have to experience also.
Here we almost filled the ship with fruit, especially a kind ardently
longed for by the Norfolk Islanders, which they call the Vee apple, but
which the Opa people term “Uhi.” Some very sweet oranges too were
offered for sale, and the ship looked like a fruit market.
We hoisted our anchor before noon and stood across to Maewo where we
anchored in the evening. No one being down on the beach, I started off
Arthur Huqe and Duwu to Tanrig to tell the people to come down in the
morning.
The village is three or four miles from the watering place and except
the ship is there, the Tanrigese seldom come down to this beach, the sea
being nearer on the other side of the island. Mr. Turnbull and I with
some of the boys went in and had a most delicious bath, after so many
days privation all the nicer. The river we found very full and the rush
very great, but the water was most beautifully cool and refreshing. This
now is the chief and best watering place in the islands, and the water
itself is most excellent. Late in the evening a boy arrived who had
rowed a long distance in his canoe, and he gave us the news, which was
good on the whole. He told me again the tragic story enacted at [¨N]adui,
a village not far from the watering place. One Vulatewa was a reputed
disease-maker, and he resided there. Lately there had been a great
mortality at Maewo, and especially among the still heathen people of
Tanrowo, a coastal district bordering on [¨N]adui. The great man,
Melkalano’s son died and his brother and many others, and Vulatewa
insisted that he had made the sickness, and would kill many more except
he were propitiated. However, propitiation by the gift of pigs or money
was not in Melkalano’s line, and collecting his followers he made a raid
on poor Vulatewa and killed him and two others, cutting them into small
pieces, and leaving them as they were killed.
They then drove out the other inhabitants, or rather fear had already
lent them wings for flight, and destroyed the village. The poor people
left everything they possessed behind, and took refuge in all directions
among their friends. The people at the next village, where there was a
flourishing school, took fright also, and cleared out of their homes
leaving a fine handsome school-house and a new church almost finished.
The boy added that as soon as Vulatewa was dead the sickness was stayed.
We did no watering this evening as the tide did not suit. After a very
quiet night at anchor on
_Wednesday, 21st July._--We started watering ship. This is a busy
process and keeps everyone on board well employed. Two large canvas
tanks are fitted into each boat, and fastened underneath the thwarts.
Into these the water is poured from buckets until both are full, a
suction pump and hose on board empties these canvas tanks into iron
receptacles under the floor of the schoolroom, and one boatload fills
about a tank and a half. Seven or eight loads of water therefore
finished the watering to-day. When everything was finished, the boys and
girls went ashore to wash their clothes and bathe, and this day here is
always looked forward to. The people came down from Tanrig in the
morning, and I was busy packing up my things. After lunch I went ashore
and started away the bearers with my belongings. How they managed to
carry all the heavy boxes and a big harmonium up the hill and on for
three or four miles, I don’t know, but they did it, and did not think
much of it. I went on board again, and thanks to the Captain’s kindness,
I got the loan of one of the ship’s boats, my own having been stolen by
a labour ship last year. After an early dinner, escorted by Arthur, &c.,
I left for Tanrig. It was just getting dusk when I arrived, and I had no
time to put anything straight. We had Evensong, and after that I
prepared for bed. The mosquitos were somewhat numerous, but it was too
late to get out my net, and so I put up with their music, and soon was
oblivious of their singing or teasing. It seems quite natural to be here
again, and as is usual the place has not changed at all. The boys
however, have built me a beautiful new house, and I shall live in great
comfort. I miss several faces too from the congregation, whom death has
removed.
_Thursday, 22nd July._--I left the _Southern Cross_ last night expecting
to get away early this morning, which I suppose she did. However I am so
far away from the sea, that I have no means of knowing what she did.
Naturally too, I was very busy this first day ashore. The first business
after Morning Prayer, was to start off Samuel and the Tasmouri
contingent who had spent the night here. They had a good many things to
receive, but they got away in time to reach home before night. There
were numbers of other things to be done also, such as putting the new
window in the Church, unpacking the harmonium, making a platform for it,
&c. The old mode of life seems to come back wonderfully naturally to me.
Breakfast of rice, with sugar and cocoanut milk, and afterwards a cup
of delicious Norfolk Island coffee, for which delicacy I am indebted to
my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher Nobbs. My midday meal is a bit of
biscuit or roasted yam, and I reserve myself for the great meal of the
day in the evening, not sumptuous but amply sufficient, fried rasher of
bacon, fried taro pancake, and most excellent potatoes, for which I am
indebted to Mr. Alfred Nobbs at Norfolk Island. After this I have a cup
of milkless tea, which I brew in that charming teapot sent me from China
by Dr. Codrington. They say ‘enough is as good as a feast,’ and I
suppose this is why I am perfectly satisfied with this rough meal. After
dinner I have nothing again till next morning.
_Friday, 23rd July._--A most superb morning, and the place looks very
charming early in the day and in the evening, at midday there is a
strong glare and it is almost too dazzling. The church looks most
picturesque and pretty, nestling in a perfect forest of bright coloured
shrubs, among which are many European representatives, _e.g._ the
Poinsettia, the Geranium, Marvel of Peru, and others imported from
Norfolk Island. Arthur certainly has expended great pains and taste in
the plantation, and it amply rewards him. Outside the stone fence is an
orange grove, the dark green of which stands out in bold relief against
the bright colours within. The church is still in a good state of
preservation and will last for some time yet. It is getting
inconveniently small however, and will soon want enlarging. It bears
evident signs of being made good use of, and they tell me the
congregation morning and evening is never short of 50 or 60. In a very
short time I hope this will be a purely Christian village, and that not
only in name, but in deed and in truth. I see considerable change here
since I left in the number of the new houses, and the care of the town,
for such it now has a right to be called. Before long the Church will be
the centre of a number of private residences, and the people begin to
build better houses. Arthur has constructed his like mine with high
walls caned all round, and made it very comfortable.
Except the ground floor my house is quite as nice as a one roomed
boarded house. The school and church are almost contiguous, and both are
strong, substantial buildings. There are at present 80 names of scholars
on the books, and these are regular attendants. I hope before I leave,
please God, to see that number augmented. At present we are strong in
teachers, with the two Arthurs, Patrick, Harry, Duwu, Tilegi, Kate and
Agnes. This morning after service, a shortened form of Mattins with a
hymn, we had school, and I hope progress has been made. I was pleased to
hear the teachers questioning their classes on the subject about which
they had been reading. The perseverance of the old men in puzzling out
the dreary sheets is perfectly astonishing, but they will not be denied.
They have, however, learnt much by heart, e.g. Lord’s Prayer, Creed, Te
Deum, &c. The women are quite as persevering, if not more so, and I
don’t like to damp their ardour by forbidding them to try and learn to
read. The first class of girls are far away ahead of the boys, and know
a very great deal. These same girls used to sing very nicely, but they
have got into the most disagreeable drawl, and so far from following a
leader, they take the bit between their teeth, and sing as fancy
dictates. This I shall try and remedy before I leave again. We have now
a harmonium for our services, thanks to the very great kindness of my
friend and benefactress in England, Miss Mount, who is far more
beneficent than I at all deserve. The two Arthurs play very fairly well,
but Arthur Huqe is organist at present. After school I had visitors from
Golvanua, a populous district some ten or twelve miles from here. They
are very peculiar people and very wild, I am sorry to say I have only
been there once, and that only a flying visit. I told them I was coming
again soon, and they seemed pleased. I gave the head man some tobacco,
and he said when I came to their place he would give me food and take
care of me. Our people here are rather terrified of them, and the
distance is so great that very few have ever been there. There were two
nice little boys with them, and I asked them if they were not tired, but
they scouted the idea.
I was so busy all day that I did not get away from home, and things
begin to be a bit more ship-shape. I begin to feel very comfortable in
my new house, but I dare say if my friends saw me, they would fancy it
was far from comfort. However, I have a continual feast in a contented
mind. In the evening, instead of school, we had singing, into which I
endeavoured to infuse some life and harmony, and partially succeeded,
but not to my taste quite yet. Then in the evening I held a teacher’s
class, and we had much profitable conversation.
_Saturday, 24th July._--This is observed by us as a whole holiday, and
after Morning Prayer nothing is required of the school till the evening
service. Arthur Aruduliwar decided to have his house thatched to-day,
and a large party assembled to help him. Here they do everything by
means of ‘Bees,’ (working parties). ‘Bees’ dig the gardens, plant the
crops, dig the food, build the houses. The women do the cooking, and the
owner of the house makes the feast, this is all he has to do, he is not
supposed himself to do any work. Next week they are going to thatch a
gamal, more stupendous work, and a great many people are going to be
engaged, and there is to be much feasting, and I believe a dance.
Marvellous harmony prevails in this community at present, and I never
hear a harsh expression, nor witness a passionate action. They are the
merriest, happiest, most contented people I ever saw, and I think the
best natured. A party from Tasmouri appeared during the morning, and
Thomas Aruloli among them. I asked him to stay the night, but he replied
that it was his Sunday at Tasmate to-morrow, and he would not like to
miss. I was pleased at this, for it showed the boy’s conscientiousness
with respect to his self-imposed duty. I gave him his goods, and he and
the others started again soon after for home. These natives don’t seem
to know what fatigue is, and this double journey, which I should be
sorry to undertake, they make nothing of it. After a frugal lunch the
boys and I went to Ruos, where we bathed and washed our clothes. The
river is certainly a boon and a blessing, and a good bathe has a most
invigorating effect on one. In the evening the teachers came in and sat
a long time with me, and we had much suitable conversation. While they
were sitting here, a sound, which I had heard all day and couldn’t find
the reason of, kept going on continually, and I asked Arthur what it
was. He told me it was a bamboo placed high up on a top branch of a
banyan tree in front of my house, in which notches were cut below each
joint, and when the wind blew strong it sounded in the bamboo with the
same effect that would be produced by so many persons blowing at once
into the several orifices. This seemed to me very ingenious, but Arthur
Huqe tells me they have the same practice at Opa. They say when the wind
blows strong the sound is heard a great distance off, and I can quite
imagine it.
We heard this evening the reports of two big guns in the direction of
the watering place, so it is conjectured that a vessel is at anchor
there. However it was too late to go and see.
_Sunday, 25th July._--First Sunday ashore at Maewo, and a very quiet and
pleasant day it has been. I think too, it has been one of the most
gloriously brilliant days I have ever seen. The morning was beautiful,
the midday marvellously resplendent, and the evening indescribably
lovely. The place did look so beautiful too. I told the people they
ought never to cease praising God for so beautiful a heritage as He had
given them. They have not a want or a care, but I fear they fail to
appreciate the beauty, according to the truth of the old adage which
speaks of familiarity breeding contempt. We had Sunday school very
early, for two reasons more especially, (1) because it is cooler in the
morning, (2) because we are not plagued with blowflies which appear in
untold numbers wherever there is any congregation of people.
After a short interval devoted to breakfast, we had Mattins, and after
this a short service and an address for the teachers. We had a very few
strangers present to-day, but all our own people turned up. We did away
with the great midday feast to-day for the first time for many years,
but some of the women cooked a large quantity of food which was
distributed to the boys in the usual way. This food business had become
too laborious, and too much the chief part of the day, so that I fancied
a relaxation for a time would be beneficial.
Patrick went to Mandurvat to take service there, but I stayed at Tanrig.
At six different stations, school and service have been held and the day
duly observed.
Evensong was a pleasant service here, and the church looked very nice
lit up with the new lamps. The strains of the harmonium too, gave an
additional pathos and homeliness to the occasion. I gave an address on
the Gospel for 5th Sunday after Trinity, which I think was understood
and appreciated. We had much singing afterwards and the public part of
the day ended with the Blessing. May that blessing ever rest upon us
here and elsewhere, and may we always endeavour to do all to God’s
glory.