CHAPTER XVII

The servant question not so acute as in England--Establishments of

thirty servants--Five or six for professional people--Terms and

duties of service--An unwilling bather--A highly recommended

maid who waited at table barefooted--The reference books of

servants--The servants’ quarters--A strange privilege: female

servants may have their husbands or putative husbands and

their families to live with them--Costly marriage fees are

prohibitive--“Madam” and “Madame”--Linguistic pitfalls: a “master”

or a “cake”?--When a bald-headed cook is wanted--Leaving cards on

names-days--An omnibus round.

The servant question is not nearly so acute in Roumania as it is in

England. Servants, of a kind, are always to be had, though really good

ones are rare. It is generally acknowledged that Hungarians are much

better workers than Roumanians, but in late years the Hungarian nation

became jealous of the constant migration to the adjoining country

(where better wages obtained) and absolutely forbade it.

Probably owing to the fact that the abolition of slavery only dates

back some seventy years or thereabouts, Roumanian families require the

services of a great number of servants. Prince G., for instance, had

thirty servants in his establishment, although his house was of a very

moderate size, not by any means what one would describe as “princely.”

People lower down in the social scale, such as doctors, engineers,

lawyers, etc., generally have establishments of five or six servants.

The conditions of service are not at all similar to those prevailing

in England. A maid is engaged at a fixed wage of from thirty francs

monthly upwards, and her dinner. In addition she receives thirty _bani_

(3d.) a day, which is called bread-money, and with this she is supposed

to provide herself with bread, tea or coffee, sugar, and anything she

may require for extra meals. Any scraps or broken bread left over from

the table the servants are at liberty to take. As there are generally

a number of them clubbing their resources, they can feed themselves

very well indeed on these terms. The servants are required to rise very

early, at five o’clock generally, and to sweep and dust thoroughly all

the rooms that have been occupied the day before. As the floors are of

parquetry in most houses, and the carpets laid loosely over them, the

work is not so very difficult. Nearly every family has a “randasch,” a

man-servant who does the heavy work, beating carpets, cleaning windows,

and such like. Sometimes the randasch waits at table, but more often it

is a parlour-maid. It depends on the capabilities of the man, whether

he is intelligent or not.

I once visited at a house and noticed that the randasch was a newcomer.

Having remarked upon it, I was informed that he had only come for a

short time, as in some weeks he was to become a “popa,” _i.e._ priest!

A few minutes before lunch or dinner is served a maid enters the salon

bearing a tray on which are several small glasses of _țuica_ and a

plate with tiny bits of bread, which she presents in turn to each

visitor. _Țuica_ (pronounced _zweeka_) is a liqueur made from plums,

and is supposed to act as a stimulant to the appetite. After dinner,

when the guests return to the salon, the maid appears once more with

small cups of Turkish coffee. This coffee is delicious, and is made

exactly as one gets it in the bazaars in Constantinople.

Servants dress much better of late years; in some houses you may even

meet maids with caps and aprons, but it is by no means general. When

I first went to Roumania I was amazed to see the door of a quite

imposing mansion opened by a creature of rather dirty appearance with

a shawl over her head. Some ladies are lax and do not insist on either

cleanliness or tidiness in their maids.

A Swiss lady of my acquaintance in Bucarest had great trouble once

with a Roumanian maid whom she had engaged. The rule of this house

was that each maid was to take a bath every week, but the difficulty

was to enforce the rule in the case of this particular girl. She got

out of it when she could, and when brought to book almost cried and

said she had never been asked to do such a thing in any other house.

Finally the mistress insisted upon the maid entering the bathroom, she

herself remaining outside the door until the necessary but much dreaded

ablutions had been performed.

I remember once a new maid being engaged at a house where I was

staying. She said she had been some time with Mme. B. and Mme. N.,

well-known ladies in Bucarest society, and so it was taken for granted

that if she had been in such good houses she would prove a first-class

servant. But what was our astonishment, the first time she came to wait

at table, to see her enter the dining-room with bare feet! At first

we looked at each other in amazement, then the comical side of the

situation struck us, and we laughed and laughed till we cried. We did

enjoy our dinner that night, but we were not waited on by Mme. B.’s

late maid-servant.

Servants are not required to have written references, but they are

furnished by the police authorities with small books in which all

particulars regarding themselves are recorded, and they are required to

produce these on taking service anew. These records are always a hold

upon them. Should they have a fancy to go off without permission or to

take with them any property not lawfully theirs, they can easily be

traced by means of these small books, duplicates of which remain in the

possession of the police.

In very many houses the servants’ quarters are quite apart from the

house. Sometimes a small house in the courtyard is provided for them;

but even if they do live in the same house as the family, they occupy

rooms which can be cut off from the rest of the dwelling by merely

locking the door of communication. This indeed is very often done at

night.

Roumanian mistresses never have the trouble of providing beds for their

servants, as everyone arrives with her own. Bedsteads are provided, but

nothing else. Bed and bedding form, of course, an indispensable part

of the equipment of female servants, and some of them take pride in

having a good show of pillows with the pillow-cases richly ornamented

with crochet work. But with men-servants it is very different indeed;

it very often happens that they have no beds at all! I heard once

of a young fellow being brought fresh from the country to act as

“randasch.” On the mistress being questioned by one of her friends as

to where he would sleep, she replied, “Oh, anywhere at all; he does not

need a bed.” Further investigation showed that he simply lay down on

his own little trunk, and slept there quite well too.

Servants are permitted to have their husbands with them. They may

be husbands only in name, and indeed very often are, but still no

objection is made about giving them house-room. If the man has any

occupation, he is away all day, only coming back at night, when his

wife will have a meal ready for him, which is supposed to be provided

by herself. Very often, therefore, there is quite a small colony

housed together in the servants’ quarters, each one with her small

family round her. It is very probable that this custom dates back to

the time when serfdom was still in vogue in the country. I believe

that when serfdom was finally abolished the step did not please many

of the serfs themselves. They and their families had lived on the

estates of their masters, fed, clothed, and housed, not badly treated

and not overworked; and when they received their freedom (the want

of which they had never felt) and were obliged in many cases to look

out for work in order to keep wife and family, they found their new

responsibilities very strange and did not relish them at all. Their

sole disability as serfs, and one which I think we may imagine did not

trouble them much, was that they were debarred from having their hair

cut!

I have said that very often the marriage ceremony is dispensed with by

the servant class, but this is not so much their fault as that of the

authorities. Marriage fees are very high in Roumania; not only those

given to priests, but also the fees required by the civil authorities.

A man, let us say, from the country wishes to marry in town. He must

write to his own village and get the certificate of his birth as well

as the written consent of his parents, or, failing these, the consent

of his grandparents. Even if a man is fifty years of age he is obliged

to ask the consent of his parents if he has any. Should the parents not

agree to the match, then he makes three “sommations.” That is, he is

required by law to send three notices with a certain interval of time

between them to his parents, informing them, first, of his intended

marriage, and then of his intention to persist in the determination.

After the third notice has been sent he is free to marry.

When the different certificates and written consent have finally been

procured, they must be deposited at the town hall and stamped. The

stamping and fees amount to a considerable sum, so one cannot wonder

that a poor couple should prefer to keep the few francs they possess

and dispense with the marriage tie.

A German maid in a house where I was staying once told me a pitiful

tale. She had come to Roumania as a quite young girl. After some time

she made the acquaintance of a Roumanian, with whom she fell in love.

As he was not in a very good position they dispensed with the marriage

ceremony and lived together as man and wife. A young family grew up

around them, and their circumstances caused the utmost grief to the

girl’s poor old mother in Germany, who felt keenly her daughter’s

disgrace. From her poor resources she contrived to send 200 marks to

enable the couple to get married. Alas! the sum was soon swallowed up

in the cost of stamping, translating, etc., of various necessary or

unnecessary papers, and the object remained unachieved. To the great

grief of the poor old mother in her far-off village home, the situation

of her daughter remained as it was, with no hope of any change, for

whatever money the couple could hope to make would have to be used for

the needs of their young family.

Good cooks are pretty well paid, receiving 50, 60, up to 100 francs

monthly, but they have also a fair amount of work to do. Sugar in

Roumania is bought by the loaf, and amongst her multitudinous duties

the cook must see that it is cut into small pieces. She must roast and

grind the coffee daily. Above all, she must go in good time to market

(some go before 5 a.m.), otherwise the best of the country produce will

have gone.

Servants are very respectful to each other, never using each other’s

name without prefacing it with “Madam.” “Madam Anna has gone to

market.” “Madam Marie is busy washing just now.” It is very curious

that this title of “Madam,” as distinct from “Madame,” is almost

entirely confined to the servant class. “Cocanitza” or “Cocoiana,” the

Roumanian term for “mistress,” is only given to the lady of the house.

The words “Coconash” (master) and “Cozonac” (a kind of cake), as it

happens, resemble each other in the pronunciation. A friend of mine,

an English lady, sent from time to time for this cake, as she liked

it for tea, but could not understand why the servant seemed always

so amused, till at last she found out that she had ordered her to

fetch a _Master_ instead of a _cake_. Funny mistakes do occur when one

does not know the language well, as was the case with another lady.

She had a person to work by the day, who, on leaving, invariably said

“Serat mana.” The English lady thought this meant “Good evening,” and

very politely repeated it after her. But she was obliged to find a

substitute for her response when she learned that the words meant “I

kiss your hand.”

I think I must find space for an example of what I understand has come

to be known here as a “howler.” It is really too good to be overlooked.

I once gave a pupil a portion of the fourteenth chapter of St Mark to

turn from French into English. In her translation I found this gem:

“The ghost is agreeable, but the meat is feeble.”

A cake that is very popular in Roumania is one made of alternate

layers of dough and a mixture of apples, currants, and sugar. It must

be made in a very cool place, and one requires a large table for the

task. When the dough is ready, it is rolled out very thin, then placed

on the table and drawn out over it at every side till it is scarcely

thicker than paper. The mixture of apples, currants, raisins, sugar,

and spice stands ready, and a portion is spread over the paste, which

is then doubled over and another layer of the mixture spread upon

it. The process is repeated till the paste has assumed the form of a

great sausage nearly a yard in length. It is then bent in the shape

of a horse-shoe, put into the oven and baked. When it is cooked, no

better cake could be desired. When I first became acquainted with this

delicacy, I was rather curious as to how it was made. I was informed

that the cake could only be made by a bald-headed cook, as he was

obliged to put the paste on his head and draw it down and outwards in

all directions in order to attain the requisite degree of thinness.

Being at that time ripe for shocks, I suffered some qualms, but later

realised that my Roumanian friends were not without a certain sense of

humour.

One of the duties of a servant is to stand at the outer gate on his

master’s names-day, and receive the visitors’ cards. It is very seldom

that one receives on such occasions, and this is so well known that

anyone can be sent just to drop a card at the house designated.

Cards of congratulation are sent in such numbers at New Year’s Day,

for instance, that it is often quite impossible to post a letter, the

pillar-boxes are so packed. It did not astonish me very much to hear

that one poor postman quite lost patience, and threw all the letters

into the river instead of delivering them. On such great fête-days it

is almost impossible to get a decent carriage; every one is engaged

hours, perhaps days, before it is needed. Everybody makes holiday,

and when cards have been left where they are due, then a turn at the

Chaussée is indulged in, or there may be a marriage at which one must

appear.

I remember a gentleman from the country coming to Bucarest on such

a great holiday. As he was seldom in town he wished to take the

opportunity of paying a few visits. Not a carriage was to be had, so at

last in despair he hired an omnibus to take him round. Now, the humour

of the situation would not be so apparent to an English person. The

Bucarest omnibus is not at all “chic.” It is permissible to travel by

the tram, but the omnibus is quite _infra dig._; and so the spectacle

of this gentleman, in kid gloves and tall hat, rattling up to the doors

of various stately dwellings in the bumping vehicle was comical in the

extreme, and caused much merriment.

Twenty years in Roumania · 第 17 / 33 章