There are very few places in the world that bear the mark of progress
so strongly as this town, destined, beyond all doubt, to be the
Manchester of the United States, and to enter--indeed it is now
entering--into active rivalry with the Old Country in her staple
manufactures, cottons and woollens. In the year 1821, few visited the
small, quiet village, of about 200 inhabitants, situated in a
mountain-nook at a bend of the Merrimac, at a point where that stream
fell in a natural cascade, tumbling and gushing over its rocky,
shallow bed, quite unconscious of the part it was to play in the
world's affairs. This village was twenty-five miles north-west of
Boston, not on a high-road leading anywhere; but, nevertheless, it
began to move on, as usual, by the erection of a saw-mill, as at that
point it was found convenient to arrest the downward progress of the
timber, and convert it into plank. And so it went on, and on, step by
step, till it became the splendid town it is, so large as to have two
railway depôts: one in the suburbs, and the principal one in the
centre of the town--for the Yankees think the closer their railways
are to the town the better.
Lowell now covers five square miles, with handsome, straight streets;
the principal one, Merrimac Street, being a mile and a half in length,
and about sixty feet wide, with footways twelve feet wide, and rows of
trees between them and the road. The appearance of this street reminds
the spectator of the best in France. The loom-power of a manufacturing
place, I understand, is estimated by the number of spindles, and this
works 350,000; the mills employ 14,000 males, and 10,000 females; the
number of inhabitants reckoned stationary, 12,000. It has lately been
raised to the dignity of a city by a charter of incorporation, which,
in the state of Massachusetts, can be claimed by any town when the
number of its inhabitants amounts to 10,000: thus it appoints its
officers, and manages its own affairs, as a body corporate and
municipal.
The most striking feature of the social system here, is the condition
of the mill-workers, of which, as it is so different from ours, I
shall give you some particulars. The corporation of Lowell has built
streets of convenient houses, for the accommodation of the workmen;
and nine-tenths of these are occupied by the unmarried. These houses
are farmed by the corporation to elderly females, whose characters
must bear the strictest investigation, and at a rent just paying a low
rate of interest for the outlay. They carry on the business under
strict rules, which limit the numbers, and determine the accommodation
of the inmates, two of whom sleep in one room. Females, whose wages
are 12s. per week, pay 6s. 6d. per week for board and lodging; for
males, the wages and cost of board are about 15 per cent. higher.
These females are housed, fed, and dressed as well as the wives and
daughters of any tradesman in Edinburgh or London. The hours of work
at the mills leave them leisure; which some spend in fancy
needle-work, so as to increase their income; and all, by arrangements
among themselves, have access to good libraries. The amusements are
balls, reading-rooms, lectures, and concerts; indeed, all the means of
intellectual cultivation are placed within their reach, and full
advantage is taken of them. There is an ambition to save money, which
they nearly all do; those in superior situations, such as overlookers,
have considerable sums in the savings-banks established by the
companies owning the mills; the workers in each mill thus putting
their weekly savings into the concern, from which they receive
interest in money, and so having an interest in the well-doing of the
mill itself, and a bond of attachment to its proprietors. In this
manner, the capital of all is constantly at work, and provision is
made for a possible slackness, which, however, has not yet befallen
Lowell.
To this place, it is no longer a toilsome journey from Boston.
Three-quarters of an hour, in a very commodious railway-carriage,
brought me into the centre of the town, when a most interesting sight
presented itself. The railway had been pouring in for the occasion
upwards of 20,000 persons; and in the streets, all was bustle and
harmony; thousands of well-dressed persons--some of the females
elegantly so--moving in throngs here and there, all bearing the tokens
of comfort and respectability. The occasion of the gathering is called
the Mechanics' Fair, held for a fortnight, during some days of which
all mill-work is suspended; the attraction consisting of a
horticultural and cattle show, and an exhibition of the products of
art and manufactures of the county, which is Middlesex.
The horticultural show was in the Town-hall, a large, handsome
apartment, with long aisles of tables, covered with piles of fruits
and vegetables; and such fruits! peaches, nectarines, apricots, and
the choicest plums, all of open-air growth, and not surpassed by any I
have seen--fully equal to the best hot-house productions of England.
Vegetables also very fine, all equal to the finest, except the turnip,
which in New England is small. The flowers as beautiful as in the Old
Country, but much smaller; consequently, that part of the show was
much inferior to our shows of the kind. In the evening of each day,
the fruits are put up to auction, and a good deal of merriment is
caused by this part of the entertainment. Those who supply the show
are well paid, as each morning there is a fresh supply; thus proving
that it is not the selected few that are exhibited, but the average
produce of the county.
From thence I walked to the show of products of industry. I found a
building 600 feet in length, 40 feet wide, and two storeys high,
crammed with such a variety of articles that it is extremely difficult
to describe them, or, indeed, to reduce them to order in the mind. I
do not propose to send you a catalogue, but to convey, as far as I
can, the impression made upon me. The ground-floor is devoted to the
exhibition of agricultural implements and machinery. I have no
intention to enter into the question of our own patent laws, but I
cannot refuse to acknowledge the superiority of the arrangements here.
The greatest advantage is, that the right to an invention is so
simply, cheaply, and easily secured, that there is no filching or
ill-feeling. Talking with a very intelligent person, who was kindly
trying to give me definite ideas in this labyrinth of cranks and
wheels, by shewing and explaining to me the movements of a most
singular machine for making carding implements--I said: 'How is it,
that with these wonders, the American portion of the Crystal Palace in
London should have been so scant? Here is enough for almost an
indefinite supply: the reaping-machine is but a unit.' 'True,' he
replied, 'but we could get no guarantee for securing the patents; and
if one man was simple enough to give the English his reaping-machine,
it did not suit others to be robbed. We have little ambition about the
matter: satisfied with what we have, we cannot afford to give away
inventions for the sake of fine words.' This explained the whole to
me.
The first store I looked over in this country was one in Boston,
having an immense stock of agricultural implements, and tools for
every mechanical purpose. I should know something of such matters,
having whistled at the plough myself, and used most of the implements;
and being therefore curious on the point, I looked in for the sake of
old associations. I am positive that every article for agricultural
and mechanical use is better made than with us, and more adapted to
its purpose--tools especially. What has been said of the plough in
London, is equally true of all other implements in use in America,
from the most complicated to the most simple. The Englishman uses what
his fathers used; the American will have the tool best adapted,
whether existing before his time or not. In favour of this superiority
in tools is the fine quality of the hard-woods used here. At the Fair
I saw some coach and chaise wheels, of the most beautiful make, of
hickory, which is as durable as metal-spokes, not thicker than the
middle finger, but strong enough for any required weight, and with
great flexibility; and from its extreme toughness, calculated for the
woodwork of implements. The apartment on the ground-floor was entirely
occupied by machines in motion, and each was attended by a person who
explained, with the greatest civility and intelligence, the uses of
the various parts of the machine, setting it going, or stopping it, as
necessary: each had its crowd of listeners; and I could not but admire
the patience and politeness of the lecturer, as he endeavoured to
explain the wondrous capabilities of his own pet machine. It would
require a volume to follow the subject thoroughly; but I will mention
what appeared to be the newest inventions, or those not known in
England.
A crowd of ladies were watching with great attention the
Sewing-machine--sewing away with the greatest exactness, and much
stronger than by the ordinary mode with a needle, as each stitch is a
knot. The inventor was shewing it; and he said he had nearly completed
a machine for the button-holes. The next was a machine called 'The
Man'--and truly named, for a more marvellous production can scarcely
be conceived--for making implements for carding wool or cotton, the
article passing in as raw wire, going through before our eyes four
processes of the most delicate description, and finally coming out a
perfect card, with its wire-teeth exactly set, and ready for use. My
attention was drawn to the application of the Jacquard principle to a
loom engaged in weaving a calico fabric, of various colours woven with
a pattern, and thus producing an elegant article, thick, and well
adapted for bed-furniture. But the most curious and simple, and
withal, perhaps, the most important invention for facilitating
manufactures, is what is called the 'Turpin Wheel,' taking its name
from the inventor. How simple may be the birth of a great idea! We all
observe that a log under a waterfall, coming down perpendicularly upon
it, spins round, as on an axis, till it escapes. This led to the
invention in question. The water falls upon the spokes of a horizontal
wheel, which it sends round with great velocity; and by this
contrivance the force of the water is more than doubled. I must not
omit to mention the machine just invented for weaving the fabric we
call Brussels carpeting. This machine will weave twenty yards of
carpeting per day, with one female to attend it. The carpet is worth
3s. per yard, while the wages paid for human aid in its production is
1-1/4d. per yard: machinery can go little further. Let me add, that I
was informed that everything on this floor was the invention of
working-men.
Upon ascending to the first floor, I found the apartment arranged with
stands--each stand devoted to one sort of manufacture--and attended,
as below, by an intelligent person, to shew and explain. Here was
every description of furniture, cotton, and woollen fabric; but
neither velvets nor silks, which have not, as yet, been introduced. We
know so much of our doings in England in the woollen and cotton line,
that my attention was principally attracted to these specimens. Here
was everything except the broad-cloths--all the patterns of
plaid-shawls, so beautifully imitated and executed, that they would, I
am sure, pass in Edinburgh. I saw the kerseymere fabric that obtained
the prize in London, and nothing could be more beautiful; for the
calicoes, I believe we cannot produce them cheaper or better. A writer
in a journal here, observes: 'Why should our cotton go to England to
be spun when we can spin it in Massachusetts?' A very pertinent
question, well worth thinking of at home. We should be thankful to the
projectors of the Crystal Palace, that it has opened our eyes, for
nothing else could. There is no manner of doubt, that we can learn
something beyond yacht-sailing; but we shall not open our eyes to the
widest until the arrival in our market of the first cargo of
manufactured woollens and cottons; and as surely as we have barrels of
flour and pork, we shall soon find them with us: I saw first-rate
calico, which could be sold at 2d. per yard.
The exports of manufactured goods from this country to all parts of
the world is increasing weekly; but of all that another time, for I am
carefully collecting information. One stand I would not omit, as it
furnished evidence of the condition of the operatives. The exhibition
is managed by the mechanics themselves, and the profits are devoted to
the support of a mechanics' institute, with the usual advantages of
library, balls, and concerts, but of a very superior order; while
every female who provides any article of her own production for
exhibition and sale, has a free ticket admitting to all the advantages
of the institution. This is found a useful stimulus, as the stand for
those articles testified, consisting as they did of all descriptions
of fancy-work: rugs, chair-bottoms, table-covers, tapestry, &c.
produced in overhours, tasteful in design, and beautiful in execution.
Let me not forget an invention, which is as great a boon to sufferers
as the water-bed: it is a contrivance applied to an ordinary bedstead,
which, by turning a handle, will support any part of the body, or
place the body in any required position. It was the invention of a
mechanic, who was nine months in bed in consequence of an accident,
and felt the want of something of the kind. It is adapted to a
bedstead at a cost of L.3.
From thence I went to the cattle-show. I could see but little of that,
as most of the animals were gone; but I was assured it was very fine.
I believe it, if what I saw was a specimen--a pair of working oxen,
perfectly white, the pair weighing 7000 pounds. In our cattle-shows at
home, we find plenty of bulk, but it destroys form and symmetry: here
both were preserved. The fowls are of the long-legged Spanish breed,
coming to table like trussed ostriches; the plump English barndoor
sort are about being introduced. I had nearly forgotten a beautiful
and extraordinary invention--a rifle, not heavier than the common one,
that will discharge twenty-four balls in succession without reloading.
Where the ramrod is usually placed, is a smaller barrel, containing,
when filled, twenty-four ball-cartridges, and, after discharging, the
action of recocking introduces another cartridge, and so on, until the
whole are discharged; the whole twenty-four can be discharged in as
many seconds!
After leaving this interesting exhibition, where I could have lingered
a whole day, I was joined by a friend, an American--a gentleman of
great attainments in science--to whose remarks I am indebted for the
following scraps. The Merrimac, when low--as when I saw it--is a
trifling stream, having a bottom of laminated rock, worn in channels
by the stream. At spring and fall, there is ten or fifteen feet of
depth; and to remedy this inequality, an important work was undertaken
and executed: to this we bent our way. It is a canal in form, but
should more properly be called a reservoir. It is 1-1/4 miles long, 100
feet wide, and 15 feet deep; of solid granite, sides and bottom--equal
in durability to any work, ancient or modern. It is about half way cut
through the solid granite rock, which in that part furnishes a natural
wall. My friend had watched its progress, and gave me many interesting
details of the engineering processes employed: among others, the
tremendous application of steam and gunpowder. An engine bored holes
in the rock fifteen feet deep and twelve inches in diameter; and these
were so placed, and in such numbers, that at a single blast 170 tons
of granite were blown into the air--an operation hardly conceivable.
This canal leaves the town in a westerly direction--being, at its
outset, about a quarter of a mile from the Merrimac, but gradually
approximating for a quarter of a mile, until it touches and unites
with that river. Between the two, is one of the prettiest of public
walks, ten feet wide, having rows of trees on each side, and
terminating in a point; being the end of a splendid granite wall, at
its base thirty feet thick, and tapering to half the thickness,
dividing the natural from the artificial stream. Here we come to a
point of great interest: on the right is an artificial dam across the
river, with two sharp lines at an angle of sixty-seven degrees, the
point meeting the stream, thus stopping the waters, and insuring a
supply for the reservoir, while it forms a cascade of about twenty
feet.
My friend gave me a very graphic description of the opening of the
works. The whole was built in a cofferdam, quite dry, and the opening
was a holiday. Every spot within sight was covered with spectators,
for whom the engineer had contrived a surprise. The works used in
keeping the water out of the reservoir, and protecting the new dam,
were undermined, and charged with gunpowder. At a given signal, the
train was fired, and in an instant the whole blew up; and when the
smoke cleared away, the fragments were floating down the Merrimac, and
the canal full of water.
On the left from the point, the egress of water is regulated by
flood-gates of a superior construction. The building crosses the
canal, and contains seven huge gates, which are raised or dropped into
their places by beautiful machinery. To each gate is attached an
immense screw, which stands perpendicularly, twenty feet long and ten
inches in diameter. At its upper end, it passes through a matrix-worm
in the centre of a large cog-wheel, lying horizontally The whole is
set in motion by the slightest turning of a handle; and here I saw the
application of the Turpin Wheel I spoke of before--no engine or
complication, but a wheel fifteen feet in diameter, fixed
horizontally, submerged in the stream, receiving the falling waters,
and thus rapidly revolving, and by a gear, giving motion to the
machinery for raising or lowering the immense gates, stopped or set
going by merely turning a stop-cock, and requiring no more force than
an ordinary water-cistern.
I cannot leave this interesting spot without an attempt to describe
the beautiful scene. A little to the right, the river widens into a
sort of bay, with several fine islands covered with wood; in front,
across the stream, as far as the eye can reach, are the forests of New
Hampshire, with occasional headlands of greensward. In the autumn, it
has exactly the appearance of a gigantic flower-garden--the trees
being of every imaginable colour. 'Ah!' said my friend, 'this is an
interesting spot: it was the favourite residence and hunting-ground of
the Chippewas. The Indians, like your monks of old in Europe, always
chose the most beautiful and picturesque sites for their dwellings;
but they have retired before the advance of a civilisation they could
not share or appreciate.' Talking in this way, as we returned, he
called my attention to a singular phenomenon in the river. At some
remote period there was, and it remains to the present moment, a rock
standing in the middle of the stream, about twelve feet in diameter at
the top, of an irregular form, and of the hardest granite. By the
action of the water, a mass of granite had been thrown on the top,
where it lodged. At high-water, perhaps during three months in each
year, the stream had caused this mass to revolve on its own axis,
until it has worn itself of a round figure, and worn also the rock
into a cup, now about six feet deep. Still, it revolves when the water
reaches it--nature still plays at this cup-and-ball--the ball weighing
five tons. Talk of this sort brought us to the railway. In due time I
reached home; and I do not remember to have ever been more interested
than by the day spent at Lowell.