CHAPTER I.

THE HISTORY OF SILHOUETTES

[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF A PRIVATE IN AN ENGLISH REGIMENT

About the end of the 18th century

In the possession of the Author]

THE HISTORY

OF SILHOUETTES

BY

E. NEVILL JACKSON

[Illustration: THE CONNOISSEUR

A MAGAZINE FOR COLLECTORS

ILLUSTRATED]

LONDON:

THE CONNOISSEUR

1911

_All rights reserved

Copyright by E. Nevill Jackson in the United States of America, 1911._

FAR IN AND OUT, ABOVE, ABOUT, BELOW,

’TIS NOTHING BUT A MAGIC SHADOW SHOW,

PLAY’D IN A BOX WHOSE CANDLE IS THE SUN

ROUND WHICH WE PHANTOM FIGURES COME AND GO.

_Stanza XLVI.

Fitzgerald’s translation of the Rubyat of Omar Kayyam._

FOREWORD.

Amongst my reminiscences of personal belongings and the charm of old

portraiture, none has given me greater pleasure than the silhouette of

bygone days.

The souvenir, sometimes cut by gifted amateurs, was exchanged amongst

friends in my early days as the photograph is to-day. We had many at

Wolterton, our Norfolk home, and the picture of my grandmother, Lady

Orford, and the cuttings of Princess Elizabeth are amongst my treasured

possessions.

I remember Mr. Guest collected silhouettes, and had some fine examples of

the work of Miers (who lived near Exeter Change), of Rosenberg, and of

Field.

Mr. Guest was a very good judge of such things, having, by many years of

collecting, perfected a naturally cultured sense of art. Like myself, he

had learnt much from Mr. Pollard.

Lady Evelyn Cobbold shewed me three silhouettes of Mr. Cobbold, his

father, and his grandfather, all perfect portraits, and very interesting.

[Illustration: Dorothy Nevill]

CONTENTS

PAGE

PREFACE 1

CHAPTER I. BLACK PROFILE PORTRAITURE, ITS PLACE IN ART,

LITERATURE AND SOCIAL LIFE 3

CHAPTER II. THE COMING OF THE SILHOUETTE AND ITS PASSING 13

CHAPTER III. PROCESSES: (1) BRUSHWORK 20

CHAPTER IV. PROCESSES: (2) SHADOWGRAPHY AND MECHANICAL AIDS 35

CHAPTER V. PROCESSES: (3) FREEHAND SCISSOR-WORK 47

CHAPTER VI. AUGUST EDOUART AND HIS BOOK 59

CHAPTER VII. SCRAP-BOOKS. A ROYAL CUTTER AND HER WORK 73

CHAPTER VIII. SILHOUETTE DECORATION ON PORCELAIN AND GLASS—THE

SILHOUETTE THEATRE 81

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF SILHOUETTISTS, MAKERS OF SILHOUETTE MOUNTS

AND OTHERS CONNECTED WITH THE CRAFT 87

BIBLIOGRAPHY 117

INDEX LXXIII

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Portrait of a Private in an English Regiment _Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

Silhouette Portraits of the Ansley Family 1

_Painted in black and orange-red on convex glass_

Silver Wedding Anniversary Picture 16

_With portraits and emblems_

Captain Robert Conig 32

_Of H.M. 90th Regiment of Infantry_

Silhouette Portraits of Members of the Ansley Family 48

_Painted in black and orange-red on convex glass_

Portrait of Lord Mansfield 64

_Painted in black and gold on glass_

Silhouette Portrait of a Man 80

_Painted in black and gold on glass_

Silhouette Portrait of a Lady 96

Painted Silhouettes 112

Illustrations in Monochrome I to LXXII

[Illustration: SILHOUETTE PORTRAITS OF THE ANSLEY FAMILY

Painted in black and orange-red on convex glass. Dated 1793. Signed by W.

Spornberg, Bath

In the possession of Lady Sackville, Knole]

PREFACE.

It has not been easy to gather up the threads of history concerning an

art and handicraft long fallen into desuetude. Amongst the few who still

work at black profile portraiture, none has been found who is cognisant

of the traditions, nor who has any knowledge of the complex processes by

means of which the fine eighteenth-century work was accomplished.

My sincere thanks are due to Mrs. Head, Mrs. Whitmore, Madame Nossof,

Mrs. Wadmore, Mrs. Lea Carson (of Philadelphia), Mrs. Whetridge, Mr.

Francis Wellesley, Mr. H. Palmer, Mr. Desmond Coke, Mr. Holworthy,

Captain Pringle, Mr. H. Terrell (of Boston), Mr. Laurence Park, Dr.

Beetham (descendant of Mrs. Beetham, the fine eighteenth-century

silhouettist), Mr. J. A. Field, for the interesting series of portraits

painted by his great-grandfather, and many others, who, possessing

silhouettes, have allowed me to visit and make a study of their

collections or have sent specimens for examination. Without their

courtesy, and that of many others who gave me facilities for studying

some thousands of specimens and advertisements, it would have been

impossible to write this book. A subject on which there exists no written

history, and which has hitherto received scant attention, requires much

research amongst a large number of examples, amongst old newspaper

matter, contemporary social history, and the trade labels of the

silhouettists, for its faithful record.

More especially I am grateful to those who have kindly permitted me to

reproduce their silhouettes, thus making clear to art lovers, and those

who take pleasure in the curio, how manifold are the charms of family

treasure, which would not otherwise have been available for study. To

Herr Julius Leisching, Director Erzerzog Rainer Museum, I am indebted

for information concerning silhouettists of Germany and Austria contained

in his memorandums of the Industrial Museum; to Sir Sidney Colvin, Keeper

of the Prints in the British Museum; to Mr. C. J. Holmes, Director of

the National Portrait Gallery; to Mr. T. Corsan Morton, of the National

Galleries of Scotland; to Mr. D. E. Roberts, of the Library of Congress,

Washington, for access to special collections; to Mr. Horace Cox and

Mr. T. P. O’Connor, with regard to pictures under their control in the

“Collector” and the Magazine; to Lady Dorothy Nevill, for placing at my

disposal the beautiful silhouette work of Princess Elizabeth, daughter of

George III.; to Lady Sackville, for allowing me to study the silhouettes

of Knole, and to reproduce some of the silhouette porcelain in her

possession.

If fresh interest is kindled in the graceful art of the silhouettist,

and the names of some little known artists are rescued from oblivion, my

pleasant task will not have been in vain. Perhaps those who read these

pages will find a charm and wistfulness in the shadow portrait. Beauty

is not alone recorded by the brush of great artists, but also by minor

workers. Gainsborough painted portraits of beautiful women at Bath, and

Charles and Spornberg worked at their shades in the same street; the

same clients visited both studios. The silhouette, poor relation of the

miniature, the forerunner of Daguerre, shows the Belle of Cheltenham,

or the Dandy of Bath and the Wells, appealing and dainty in shadowland,

while the laughter of the shadow children echoes ghost-like as we note

their toys and sports; they flit across the pages, they cast a shadow,

and are gone.

E. J.

_Oak Lodge, Sidcup._

CHAPTER I.

BLACK PROFILE PORTRAITURE: ITS PLACE IN ART, LITERATURE, AND SOCIAL LIFE.

Figures in black profile join hands round the wine-cups and oil-jars made

by Etruscan potters; in silhouette men are armed to battle, women weave

cloth and grind corn, children play at ball and knuckle-bones, life-like

in shadow.

There is a pageant of profile portraiture on the mummy cases and frescoed

tombs of ancient Egypt. Strange peoples are shown in outline as they

lived; they go to war, they marry, their children play, the ritual of

their Book of the Dead is pictured in profile three thousand years before

the Christian era.

These flat and unsubstantial ghost figures come to us down the ages.

From those mystic times when Crates of Sicyon, Philocles of Egypt,

and Cleanthes of Corinth first worked in monochrome, there is an

unbroken tale of men and women who have lived, loved, hated, and

triumphed—Pharaohs and their slaves, Greek gods, and athletes; a French

king, a murdered queen; Napoleon and his generals; statesmen and

politicians; Goëthe, Beethoven, Burns, Wellington, Dickens, Washington,

Harrison, Scott, and ten thousand others down to the present day. They

come as colourless ghosts, relics of bygone men and women, shadows caught

and held, while the realities have flitted across life’s stage and

vanished.

Old Omar Khayâm, “King of the Wise,” in the twelfth century knew

“We are no other than a moving row

Of magic shadow shapes that come and go

Round with the sun, illumined lantern held

In midnight by the master of the show.”

He had not been busied with winning knowledge without seeing the deep

significance of the shadow portrait. The familiar figure of the showman

whose lantern displays the black moving figures in the midnight streets

of Teheran appealed to him with vital force. He uses the shadow picture

constantly as a simile in his matchless quatrains—

“Heav’n but the vision of fulfilled desire,

And hell the shadow from a soul on fire,

Cast on the darkness into which ourselves

So late emerged from, shall so soon expire.”

The subtle appeal of the silhouette is inevitably associated with death,

in its legendary origin. Filled with joyous anticipation, thrilling with

the thought of the woman he would soon hold in his arms, a lover returned

after a short absence to find that his betrothed was dead; he rushed into

the death chamber, maddened with grief, to look his last on the face of

his beloved before it should be hidden from him for ever. There on the

wall the shadow of the dead woman’s features appeared in perfect outline,

for a taper at the head of the bier cast the shadow. With reverent hand

the man traced the portrait, which he believed to have been specially

sent as consolation.

There are other variants of the story. The Greek legend attributes the

invention of painting to the daughter of Dibutades. Knowing that the

passion of her lover was waning, she furtively sketched his shadow

on the wall as he stood with the sun behind him. We are not told if

this delicate way of indicating that even a shadow outline can be made

permanent by a sufficiently determined young woman was of any use in

making the love of the inconstant swain indelible.

Many artists have illustrated different phases of the basic idea as to

the shadow having first suggested portraiture. Le Brunyn, Schenan, B.

West, R.A., and Mulready are some of them.

We make no apology for studying the history of this art of the

silhouettist in its latter-day manifestations. At its best, black

profile portraiture is a thing of real beauty, almost worthy to take its

place with the best miniature painting; at its worst, it is a quaintly

appealing handicraft, revealing the fashions and foibles, the intimate

domestic life and conventions of its day. It was executed by so many

distinguished amateurs, from Etienne de Silhouette himself to Queen

Charlotte and Princess Elizabeth of England, that few social histories

or collections of letters of the eighteenth century fail to show how its

strange chequer fitted into the fashionable life of the period.

Surely it is high time the art of black profile portraiture had a

historian of its own and the great masters of silhouette portraiture were

rescued from oblivion. Shadows are impalpable things which fade away

almost before we are aware of their existence.

Year by year accident and the ravages of time lessen the number of these

fragile curios; the beautiful portraits on ivory and glass, being the

most fragile, are the first to go. Already it is not easy to find good

examples in their original frames complete with convex glass and trade

label of the artist pasted on the back. Mutilated examples with cracked

wax filling or plaster paintings, chipped and incomplete, are still to

be found; but even these have often been reframed, or have been broken

open to renew glass or back, and so the trade label has been lost. The

searcher who hopes to be successful in his quest has now to go very far

afield, unless he be satisfied with the paper pictures of indifferent

quality, interesting perhaps on account of the identity of the sitter

or the fame of the cutter, but very far from equalling in beauty the

best work of the masters in black profile portraiture. Some enthusiasts

maintain that the least artistic profile shadow portrait has a curious

individuality which redeems it from overwhelming ugliness; certainly the

infinite variety of the processes and the fresh and vigorous outlines in

unexpected media give a charm to the portrait in monochrome.

There is no sequence in the production of the different types. Some of

the earliest specimens were cut in paper, for Mrs. Pyburg is said to

have cut out the portraits of William and Mary in 1699; and certainly

some of the beauties of Versailles were cut by Gonard in paper; the

mid-Victorians worked in paper, and there are still a few cutters

busy with their scissors. Glass, ivory, and plaster, oil-painting,

smoke-staining, and Indian ink, all were used one by one or together.

There is no evolution and gradual development to trace in the art and

craft of the silhouettist; the pictures come before us like the shadows

that they are, each process appearing and disappearing. Sometimes the

same man worked in half a dozen different processes, using now one and

now another, according to the taste or purse of the sitter, or guided

by his own judgment as to the suitability of his subject for this or

that medium of expression. The miniature shades for mounting in rings,

brooches, scarf-pins, and pendants were not done exclusively by a few

men, as one might surmise from their rarity; they were painted with the

delicacy of a miniaturist by many of the silhouettists, who usually

painted silhouettes of ordinary size. These jewel shadows are now very

difficult to find, and it is probable no such collection as that of the

late Mr. Montague Guest will ever come into the market again.

Into the lives of great personages, such as Goëthe, Napoleon, our English

kings, queens, and princesses, the silhouette creeps with colourless

persistence; there is no escaping it. Goëthe writes letters to his

mother, and to Lavater, being touched with enthusiasm for the silhouette

and its uses by the zealous Zürich minister. The poet cut a few himself.

Napoleon presents glass profile portraits of himself in black on gold

tinsel ground to his generals. Princess Elizabeth, daughter of George

III., is a famous scissor-woman, and many are the pictures she cut, not

only of her father, mother, and sisters, but also of trees, birds and

flowers, rural scenes, cupids, and cupid groups.

Fanny Burney delights in the black portraits; all the Burney family are

grouped together. She records her visits to the silhouettist Charles,

when her attendance on the Queen as Maid of Honour was over. This

portrait shows the famous creator of “Evelina” to be sprightly indeed;

her delicate profile is well set off with curled and powdered hair, lace

ruffle, and beribboned hat, whose tilt must surely have been learnt at

Versailles.

Pepys lived too early to have his shadow taken. We feel sure the old

coxcomb would have had a dozen of himself, mighty fine in new clothes,

and perchance, if in generous mood, a single one of his wife in her old

ones. [My father’s profile, cut in paper, is spoken of by Bulwer Lytton

in “The Caxtons,” in the second volume.]

Horace Walpole, in his letter to Sir Horace Mann, written in 1761,

desires him to thank the Duchess of Grafton on his behalf for the

_découpure_ of herself, this being, he explains in a note, “her figure

cut out in card by M. Herbert, of Geneva, who was famous in that art.”

This allusion at this early date again indicates that the cut silhouette

was the earliest, as it certainly is the last survival, of the art. The

scissor-type, it is still called by the old inhabitants of Suffolk, who

well remember the visits of the itinerant artists.

Strange confusion has arisen in the minds of many admirers of silhouettes

on account of the name. Black profile portraiture was practised long

before Etienne de Silhouette economised in the public finance department

of Louis XV., and the wits of the day nicknamed “silhouette” whatever was

cheap and common.

In Swift’s “Miscellanies,” ed. 1745, vol. x., page 204, is a whole series

of poems (full of the most eccentric rhymes) on silhouette portraits,

_e.g._:—

“_On Dan Jackson’s Picture Cut in Paper._”

“To fair Lady Betty Dan sat for his Picture,

And defy’d her to draw him so oft as he piqu’d her.

He knew she’d no Pencil or Colouring by her,

And therefore he thought he might safely defy her.

Come sit, says my Lady, then whips out her Scissar,

And cuts out his Coxcomb in Silk in a trice, Sir.

Dan sat with Attention, and saw with Surprize

How she lengthen’d his Chin, how she hollow’d his Eyes,

But flattered himself with a secret Conceit

That his thin leathern (_sic_) Jaws all her art would defeat.

Lady Betty observ’d it, then pulls out a Pin

And varies the Grain of the Stuff to his Grin;

And to make roasted Silk to resemble his raw-bone

She rais’d up a Thread to the jett of his Jaw-bone,

Till at length in exactest Proportion he rose

From the Crown of his Head to the Arch of his Nose.

And if Lady Betty had drawn him with Wig and all,

’Tis certain the Copy’d out-done the Original.

Well, that’s but my Outside, says Dan with a Vapour;

Say you so? says my Lady; I’ve lin’d it with Paper.”

_Swift, “Miscellanies,” vol. x., p. 205._

ANOTHER.

“Clarissa draws her Scissars from the Case,

To draw the Lines of poor D—n J—n’s Face.

One sloping Cut made Forehead, Nose, and Chin,

A Nick produc’d a Mouth and made him grin,

Such as in Taylor’s measure you have seen.

But still were wanting his Grimalkin Eyes,

For which grey Worsted-Stocking Paint supplies

Th’ unravell’d Thread thro’ Needle’s Eye convey’d,

Transferr’d itself into his past-board Head.

How came the Scissars to be thus out-done?

The Needle had an Eye, and they had none.

O wond’rous Force of Art! now look at _Dan_—

You’d swear the Past-board was the better man.

The Dev’l, says he, the Head is not so full—

Indeed it is, behold the Paper Skull.”

THO. S⸺D, _Sculp_.

_Swift, “Miscellanies,” vol. x., p. 206._

ANOTHER.

“Dan’s evil Genius in a Trice

Had strip’d him of his Coin at Dice;

_Chloe_ observing this Disgrace,

On _Pam_ cut out his rueful Face.

By G⸺, says _Dan_, ’tis very hard,

Cut out at Dice, cut out at Card!”

G. R⸺D, _Sculp._

Now, Swift died in 1745, and may be said to have died to literature

some years earlier. Silhouette’s cheese-paring economy was, we are

told, induced by the deficit entailed “by the ruinous war of 1756,”

consequently it could not have been before 1760 that his name would have

become synonymous with cheapness. We thus have evidence that the art

was in use at the least twenty years before his name could have been

applied to it; and it does not at all appear that it was new then, as

Mrs. Pyburg cut William and Mary’s portrait out of black paper in 1699.

This nomenclature must, therefore, have been caused by his adoption of

it as a pastime, and not by the reason given by I. D’Israeli and the

_Dict. Hist._ This is an instance of how easily false derivations may

be published even within so short a time of the events for which they

profess to account.

A very slight study of silhouettes shows how characteristic is the pose

of many of the old black profile portraits. In the shadow of George III.,

do we not see the embodiment of Lord Rosebery’s inimitable description,

“the German Princelet of his day,” and in Pitt’s silhouette, with its

“damned long, obstinate upper lip,” as his royal master so vigorously

described it, there is the very ego of the man who was premier at

twenty-five.

Goëthe’s letters to his mother are full of allusions to the novel

portraiture which had been brought to his notice by Lavater, the Zürich

divine, whose essay on Physiognomy, written for the promotion of the

knowledge and love of mankind, is still read in Germany. The edition of

1794 is before us, and shows hundreds of silhouette drawings, for he

wrote of the importance of reading character from people’s faces, and

used the silhouette for this purpose. Thus the shadow portrait, once the

amusement of amateurs, now began to have scientific significance.

Goëthe testifies that Lavater wished all the world to co-operate with

him, and he arrived at Goëthe’s house on June 23rd, 1774, not only to

take portraits of the young genius, but also of his parents. A year later

Goëthe implores Lavater in a letter, “I beg you will destroy the family

picture of us; it is frightful. You do credit neither to yourself nor us.

Get my father’s cut out and use him as a vignette, for he is good. You

can do what you like with my head too, but my mother must not stand there

like that!”

An amusing sequel to this is that when, in the third volume of the

“Physiognomy,” the councillor’s portrait appeared, but not that of

Goëthe’s mother, she was much annoyed, and said that Lavater evidently

did not think her face worthy to appear. The matter rankled, for in

1807 she had her head examined by Dr. Gall, “to find out if the great

qualities of her son had, by any chance, been passed on to her.”

This much discussed silhouette of Goëthe’s mother is illustrated in

“Goëthe’s Mother,” by Dr. Karl Heinemann, and fuller accounts of the

poet’s attitude towards the silhouettists of his day, and the instructive

and exciting deductions from their work, will be found further on in our

volume.

In a letter from Fräulein von Göchhausen to Frau Rath—we use the

translation of Mr. A. S. Gibb—the delight in the novel portraiture is

shown, and incidentally the vivacity of the writer:—

“WEIMAR, _the 27th December, 1781_.

“I am sure, dearest mother, that you in your life have had

many and varied joys; but whether you know any such joy as

you have given me on Christmas Day, at least I wish it you!

Your silhouette, so like! of such an excellent, dear, beloved

woman! in such a costly, pretty, and stylish setting; and your

letter—O your dear letter!—could I only say how indescribably

admirable the letter is! Enough, dearest mother: from all my

exclamations there is, alas, nothing further to be learned than

that I am half out of my wits with excessive joy. The first day

Goëthe had much to bear from me, for I almost ate him up. By

monstrous good luck there was on that joyous day a grand dinner

at the Duchess’s, and nearly half the town was assembled. I

could, therefore, produce at once my splendid present (which

will not so soon come off my so-called swan-like neck); and

there was a questioning and a glancing at the beautiful

novelty, and I was thoroughly wild, and people thought I must

have had a gift of clear quicksilver.[1]

“Dearest woman, how shall I thank you! how ever deserve so

much goodness—so without all desert and worthiness on my part!

In return, I can, alas! do nothing, except to go on in my old

jog-trot—love, honour, and obey you my life long. Amen!

“L. GÖCHHAUSEN.”

[1] This seems a strange expression; but at that time, when

anyone showed a restless activity, they would say that someone

had given them quicksilver.

Later the craft of the silhouettist fell into disrepute when it had

become part of the curriculum of young ladies’ schools; unskilful artists

itinerated, pursuing their craft in booths and at fairs—one in the Thames

Tunnel, several on the Chain Pier at Brighton. At street corners magic

figures, with concealed workers, were used to entice the unwilling with

mystery. Even Sam Weller, in his inimitable letter to Mary, laughs at the

methods of the “profeel macheen.”

“So I take the privilidge of the day, Mary, my dear—as the

gen’l’m’n in difficulties did ven he valked out of a Sunday—to

tell you that the first and only time I see you your likeness

was took on my hart in much quicker time and brighter colours

than ever a likeness was took by the profeel macheen (wich

p’raps you may have heerd on, Mary, my dear), altho’ it _does_

finish a portrait and put the frame and glass on complete, with

a hook on the end to hang it up by, and all in two minutes and

a quarter.”

Such is the story, in brief, of the silhouette. Sometimes we see in

it a little social document, elevated by fortuitous circumstances or

scarcity of other pictorial record to historical value. As in the case of

Robert Burns’s portrait, by J. Miers, and that of his brother, Gilbert

Burns, by Howie, in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, at all times

it is passively charming. Surely we need not scorn this step-sister

of photography—this poor relation of the art world. In the words of

Seraphim, when, in 1771, he flung wide the doors of his Shadow Theatre at

Versailles—

“Venez garçons, venez fillettes,

Voir Momus à la silhouette;

Ou, chez Seraphim venez voir

La belle Lumeur en habit noir,

Tandes que ma salle est bien sombre

Et que mon a cleur n’est que l’ombre,

Puisse messieurs votre gaîté

Devenir la réalité.”

[Illustration]

The history of silhouettes · 第 1 / 8 章