PHOTOGENIC DRAWING ON PAPER.

We shall now proceed to describe the various processes for Photogenic

drawing on paper; first, however, impressing on the mind of the

experimenter, the necessity which exists for extreme care in every

stage of the manipulation. In this portion of my work I am entirely

indebted to the works of Professors Hunt, Fisher and others.

I. APPARATUS AND MATERIALS.--Paper.--The principal difficulty to be

contended with in using paper, is the different power of imbibition

which we often find possessed in the same sheet, owing to trifling

inequalities in its texture. This is, to a certain extent, to be

overcome by a careful examination of each sheet, by the light of a

candle or lamp at night, or in the dark. By extending each sheet

between the light and the eye, and slowly moving it up and down, and

from left to right, the variations in its texture will be seen by the

different quantities of light which pass through it in different parts;

and it is always the safest course to reject every sheet in which

inequalities exist. Paper sometimes contains minute portions of

thread, black or brown specks, and other imperfections, all of which

materially interfere with the process. Some paper has an artificial

substance given to it by sulphate of lime (Plaster of Paris); this

defect only exists, however, in the cheaper sorts of demy, and

therefore can be easily avoided. In all cases such paper should be

rejected, as no really sensitive material can be obtained with it.

Paper-makers, as is well known, often affix their name to one half the

sheet; this moiety should also be placed aside, as the letters must

frequently come out with annoying distinctness. Well sized paper is by

no means objectionable, indeed, is rather to be preferred, since the

size tends to exalt the sensitive powers of the silver. The principal

thing to be avoided, is the absorption of the sensitive solution into

the pores; and it must be evident that this desideratum cannot be

obtained by unsized paper. Taking all things into consideration, the

paper known as satin post would appear to be preferable, although the

precautions already recommended should be taken in its selection.

Brushes.--The necessary solutions are to be laid upon the paper by

brushes. Some persons pass the paper over the surface of the

solutions, thus licking up, as it were, a portion of the fluid; but

this method is apt to give an uneven surface; it also rapidly spoils

the solutions. At all events, the brush is the most ready and the most

effectual means.

Distilled Water.--All the water used, both for mixing the solutions,

washing the paper, or cleaning the brushes, must be distilled, to

obtain good results, for reasons before specified.

Blotting Paper.--In many instances, the prepared paper requires to be

lightly dried with bibulous paper. The best description is the white

sort. In each stage of the preparation distinct portions of bibulous

paper must be used. If these be kept seperate and marked, they can be

again employed for the same stage; but it would not do, for example, to

dry the finished picture in the same folds in which the sensitive paper

had been pressed. A very convenient method is to have two or three

quarto size books of bibulous paper, one for each seperate process.

Nitrate of Silver.--In the practice of the photographic art, much

depends on the nitrate of silver. Care should be taken to procure the

best; the crystalized salt is most suitable for the purpose. While in

the form of crystal it is not injured by exposure to light, but the

bottles containing the solutions of this salt should at all times be

kept wrapped in dark paper, and excluded from daylight.

II. DIFFERENT METHODS OF PREPARING THE PAPER.--Preparation of the

Paper.--Dip the paper to be prepared into a weak solution of common

salt. The solution should not be saturated, but six or eight times

diluted with water. When perfectly moistened, wipe it dry with a

towel, or press it between bibulous paper, by which operation the salt

is uniformly dispersed through its substance. Then brush over it, on

one side only, a solution of nitrate of silver. The strength of this

solution must vary according to the color and sensitiveness required.

Mr. Talbot recommends about fifty grains of the salt to an ounce of

distilled water. Some advise twenty grains only, while others say

eighty grains to the ounce. When dried in a dark room, the paper is

fit for use. To render this paper still more sensitive, it must again

be washed with salt and water, and afterwards with the same solution of

nitrate of silver, drying it between times. This paper, if carefully

made, is very useful for all ordinary photographic purposes. For

example, nothing can be more perfect than the images it gives of leaves

and flowers, especially with a summer's sun; the light, passing through

the leaves, delineates every ramification of their fibres. In

conducting this operation, however, it will be found that the results

are sometimes more and sometimes less satisfactory, in consequence of

small and accidental variations in the proportions employed. It

happens sometimes that the chloride of silver formed on the surface of

the paper is disposed to blacken of itself, without any exposure to

light. This shows that the attempt to give it sensibility has been

carried too far. The object is, to approach as nearly to this

condition as possible without reaching it; so that the preparation may

be in a state ready to yield to the slightest extraneous force, such as

the feeblest effect of light.

Cooper's Method.--Soak the paper in a boiling hot solution of chlorate

of potash (the strength matters not) for a few minutes; then take it

out, dry it, and wet it with a brush, on one side only, dipped in a

solution of nitrate of silver, sixty grains to an ounce of distilled

water, or, if not required to be so sensitive, thirty grains to the

ounce will do. This paper possesses a great advantage over any other,

for the image can be fixed by mere washing. It is, however, very apt

to become discolored even in the washing, or shortly afterwards, and

is, besides, not so sensitive, nor does it become so dark as that made

according to Mr. Talbot's method.

Daguerre's Method.--Immerse the paper in hydrochloric (or as it is more

commonly called, muriatic) ether, which has been kept sufficiently long

to become acid; the paper is then carefully and completely dried, as

this is essential to its proper preparation. It is then dipped into a

solution of nitrate of silver, and dried without artificial heat in a

room from which every ray of light is carefully excluded. By this

process it acquires a very remarkable facility in being blackened on a

very slight exposure to light, even when the latter is by no means

intense. The paper, however, rapidly loses its extreme sensitiveness

to light, and finally becomes no more impressionable by the solar beams

than common nitrate paper.

Bromide Paper.--Of all common photographic paper, the best, because the

least troublesome in making, and the most satisfactory in result, is

that which is termed bromine paper, and which is thus

prepared:--Dissolve one hundred grains of bromide of potassium in one

ounce of distilled water, and soak the paper in this solution. Take

off the superfluous moisture, by means of your bibulous paper, and when

nearly dry, brush it over on one side only, with a solution of one

hundred grains of nitrate of silver to an ounce of distilled water.

The paper should then be dried in a dark room, and, if required to be

very sensitive, should a second time be brushed over with the nitrate

of silver solution.

In preparing the papers mentioned above, there are two circumstances

which require particular attention. In the first place, it is

necessary to mark the paper on the side spread with the solutions of

nitrate of silver, near one of the extreme corners. This answers two

purposes: in the first place it serves to inform the experimentalist

of the sensitive surface; and secondly, it will be a guide as to which

portion of the papers has been handled during the application of the

solution, as the impress of the fingers will probably come out upon the

photograph. The second caution is, that the application of the

sensitive solution (nitrate of silver,) and the subsequent drying of

the paper, must be always conducted in a perfectly dark room, the light

of a candle alone being used.

[Illustration: Fig. 29 (hipho_29.gif)]

III. PHOTOGENIC PROCESS ON PAPER.--Method.--The simplest mode is to

procure a flat board and a square of glass, larger in size than the

object intended to be copied. On the board place the photographic

paper with the prepared side upwards, and upon it the object to be

copied; over both lay the glass and secure them so that they are in

close connection by means of binding screws or clamps, similar to g. g.

fig. 29. Should the object to be copied be of unequal thickness, such

as a leaf, grass, &c., it will be necessary to place on the board,

first, a soft cushion, which may be made of a piece of fine flannel and

cotton wool. By this means the object is brought into closer contact

with the paper, which is of great consequence, and adds materially to

the clearness of the copy. The paper is now exposed to diffused

daylight, or, still better, to the direct rays of the sun, when that

part of the paper not covered by the object will become tinged with a

violet color, and if the paper be well prepared, it will in a short

time pass to a deep brown or bronze color. It must then be removed, as

no advantage will be obtained by keeping it longer exposed; on the

contrary, the delicate parts yet uncolored will become in some degree

affected. The photogenic paper will now show a more or less white and

distinct representation of the object. The apparatus figured at 29

consists of a wooden frame similar to a picture frame; a piece of plate

glass is fixed in front; and it is provided with a sliding cover of

wood, c., which is removed when the paper is ready to be exposed to the

action of the light. The back, d., which is furnished with a cushion,

as just described, is made to remove for the purpose of introducing the

object to be copied, and upon it the prepared paper; the back is then

replaced, and, by aid of the cross piece and screw, e., the whole is

brought into close contact with the glass.

The objects best delineated on these photographic papers, are lace,

feathers, dried plants, particularly the ferns, sea-weeds and the light

grasses, impressions of copper plate and wood engravings, particularly

if they have considerable contrast of light and shade--(these should be

placed with the face downwards, having been previously prepared as

hereafter directed)--paintings on glass, etchings, &c.

To fix the Drawings.--Mr. Talbot recommends that the drawings should be

dipped in salt and water, and in many instances this method will

succeed, but at times it is equally unsuccessful. Iodide of potassium,

or, as it is frequently called, hydriodate of potash, dissolved in

water, and very much diluted, (twenty-five grains to one ounce of

water,) is a more useful preparation to wash the drawings with; it must

be used very weak or it will not dissolve the unchanged muriate only,

as is intended but the black oxide also, and the drawing be thereby

spoiled.

But the most certain material to be used is the hyposulphite of soda.

One ounce of this salt should be dissolved in about a pint of distilled

water. Having previously washed the drawing in a little lukewarm

water, which of itself removes a large portion of the muriate of silver

which is to be got rid of, it should be dipped once or twice in the

hyposulphite solution. By this operation the muriate which lies upon

the lighter parts will become so altered in its nature as to be

unchanged by light, while the rest remains dark as before.

It will be evident from the nature of the process, that the lights and

shadows of an object are reversed. That which is originally opaque

will intercept the light, and consequently those parts of the

photogenic paper will be least influenced by light, while any part of

the object which is transparent, by admitting the light through it,

will suffer the effect to be greater or less in exact proportion to its

degree of transparency. The object wholly intercepting the light will

show a white impression; in selecting, for example, a butterfly for an

object, the insect, being more or less transparent, leaves a

proportionate gradation of light and shade, the most opaque parts

showing the whitest. It may be said, therefore, that this is not

natural, and in order to obtain a true picture--or, as it is termed, a

positive picture--we must place our first acquired photograph upon a

second piece of photogenic paper. Before we do this, however, we must

render our photograph transparent, otherwise the opacity of the paper

will mar our efforts.

To accomplish this object, the back of the paper containing the

negative, or first acquired photograph, should be covered with white or

virgin wax. This may be done by scraping the wax upon the paper, and

then, after placing it between two other pieces of paper, passing a

heated iron over it. The picture, being thus rendered transparent,

should now be applied to a second piece of photogenic paper, and

exposed, in the manner before directed, either to diffused day-light or

to the direct rays of the sun. The light will now penetrate the white

parts, and the second photograph be the reverse of the first, or a true

picture of the original.

Instead of wax, boiled linseed oil--it must be the best and most

transparent kind--may be used. The back of the negative photograph

should be smeared with the oil, and then placed between sheets of

bibulous paper. When dry the paper is highly transparent.

IV. APPLICATION OF PHOTOGENIC DRAWING.--This method of photogenic

drawing may be applied to useful purposes, such as the copying of

paintings on glass by the light thrown through them on the prepared

paper--Imitations of etchings, which may be accomplished by covering a

piece of glass with a thick coat of white oil paint; when dry, with the

point of a needle, lines or scratches are to be made through the white

lead ground, so as to lay the glass bare; then place the glass upon a

piece of prepared paper, and expose it to the light. Of course every

line will be represented beneath of a black color, and thus an

imitation etching will be produced. It is also applicable to the

delineation of microscopic objects, architecture, sculpture, landscapes

and external nature.

A novel application of this art has been recently suggested, which

would doubtless prove useful in very many instances. By rendering the

wood used for engravings sensitive to light, impressions may be at once

made thereon, without the aid of the artist's pencil. The preparation

of the wood is simply as follows:--Place its face or smooth side

downwards, in a plate containing twenty grains of common salt dissolved

in an ounce of water; here let it remain for five minutes, take it out

and dry it; then place it again face downwards in another plate

containing sixty grains of nitrate of silver to an ounce of water; here

let it rest one minute, when taken out and dried in the dark it will be

fit for use, and will become, on exposure to the light, of a fine brown

color. Should it be required more sensitive, it must be immersed in

each solution a second time, for a few seconds only. It will now be

very soon effected by a very diffused light.

This process may be useful to carvers and wood engravers not only to

those who cut the fine objects of artistical design, but still more to

those who cut patterns and blocks for lace, muslin, calico-printing,

paper hangings, etc., as by this means the errors, expense and time of

the draughtsman may be wholly saved, and in a minute or two the most

elaborate picture or design, or the most complicated machinery, be

delineated with the utmost truth and clearness.

The History and Practice of the Art of Photography · 第 29 / 52 题