CHAPTER XII

TOURNAI, THE OLDEST CITY IN BELGIUM

As the ladies were somewhat fatigued by our rambles around Flanders it

was decided that they would spend two or three quiet days with la

tante Rosa while the Professor and I made daily excursions into

wonderland, returning to the home of our hostess every night. The

nearest point of interest was the city of Tournai, the oldest city in

all Belgium. There was no direct railway line, however, and--as on

many other occasions during our pilgrimage--we had no little trouble

studying out a _correspondence_, or set of connections, that would

take us there and back without loss of time. We started each morning

before six o'clock and found the trains at that time of day made up

mostly of fourth-class coaches filled with working people. The Belgian

State Railway sells _billets d'abonnement_ for these trains at

incredibly low rates--a few sous a month for short trips from one town

to the next, and a few francs a month for rides half way across the

Kingdom. I have known clerks residing in the extreme southern end of

the Department of Hainaut, close to the French frontier, who ride

every day to Mons, ten or fifteen miles distant, and there take a

train for Brussels. The object of this low rate of fare is the

paternal desire of the Government that labourers should be able to

obtain work wherever it may be found and still retain their homes in

the villages in which they were born and raised. Home ties are very

strong in Belgium, and the people cheerfully travel considerable

distances under this plan rather than move away from their relatives

and friends. Economically it is a very good thing for the country as a

whole, since it enables the labourer out of work to look for a place

in a hundred different towns and the employer to draw his help from an

equally wide area. Thus in times that are not abnormally bad there are

very few industrial plants without their full quota of hands, and very

few hands out of work.

The fourth-class coaches are built like the third-class, with cross

divisions making several compartments, but the division walls do not

extend to the roof so the passengers can toss things to one another

over them. Separate cars are provided for men and women, many

scandals having resulted from the promiscuous herding of both sexes

which prevailed some twenty years ago. The occupants of the men's cars

are of all ages, from tiny lads who seem to be hardly more than eight

or nine--but are no doubt older, as the Belgian laws no longer permit

minors of that age to work--to grandsires of eighty. All are roughly

clad, ready to take up their respective tasks the moment they

arrive--no one thinks of having a separate suit for travelling as most

of the workmen who commute to and from an American city would do. In

the women's car the occupants are mostly young girls from fifteen to

twenty, with a sprinkling of little girls and some women up to thirty,

but very few who appear to be older than that. They always seem to be

happy, singing and "carrying-on" with the utmost abandon. They are

ready to start a flirtation at a moment's notice and occasionally,

when their car halts in a station next to some other train in which

there are young men near the windows, the whole bevy of charmers

devotes itself to making conquests--opening the windows and shouting a

volley of good-natured raillery to which, if they are natives and used

to it, the youngsters retort in kind. Then, as the trains start, the

laughing crowd throws kisses by handfuls and the flirtation is over.

As our train jolted along, with frequent stops to take on and let off

fourth-class passengers, the Professor explained to me that to be

consistent to his plan we really should have visited Tournai first.

However, it was far out of the way as a starting point, and its

history did not dominate that of all Flanders in the way that the

early history of Bruges did. In fact, while in early times subject to

the Counts of Flanders, it was often subject to the French Crown for

generations at a time, and is usually regarded as a Walloon rather

than a Flemish city. Its influence on Flemish art and architecture,

however, led us to include this Ville d'Art in our itinerary.

According to the scholars Tournai is the _Turris Nerviorum_ of Cæsar,

the capital of the Nervii, and one of the oldest towns north of the

Alps. In 299 it was the scene of the martyrdom of St. Piat, who

founded a church on the site of the cathedral. As the visitor gazes at

that magnificent structure he can reflect that the ground on which it

stands has been consecrated to divine worship for more than sixteen

hundred years. During the fourth and fifth centuries Tournai was the

capital of the branch of the Franks that ruled over the greater part

of what is now Belgium, but the history of these early days when the

Roman Empire was tottering to its fall is very meagre, and more than

half legend at best. The first kings of the Merovingian line are

shadowy, mythical personages who stalk across the pages of history

like the ghost in Hamlet--far off, dim, but awe-inspiring.

Childeric is one of the most picturesque of these early kings.

Expelled from the tribe owing to his youthful gallantries, he fled to

the court of Basinus, King of the Thuringians. The queen, Basina,

welcomed him even more warmly than her husband, and hardly had

Childeric returned home, on being recalled by the tribe some years

later to rule over them, than she followed him. Arrived at his court,

she announced that she had come to marry him because he was the

bravest, strongest and handsomest man she had heard of. She added,

naïvely, that if she knew of another who surpassed him in these

particulars not even the sea could keep her from such a rival. Basina,

who from all accounts should be the patron saint of the suffragettes,

won her suit and they were married. On the night before the ceremony

mony, according to an ancient chronicle, she bade Childeric go into

the courtyard of the palace at Tournai to see what he might see. He

went at her bidding three times. On the first occasion he beheld a

long procession of lions, unicorns and leopards, struggling and

snapping at one another, but all without a sound, nor did the beasts

cast any shadow. The second time he saw huge bears shambling across

the courtyard which vanished even while he was gazing at them. Then

came packs of wolves which ran in circles and leaped, but silently. On

his last visit he saw dogs of huge size and many colours, and

innumerable cats which always looked behind them. From these portents

Basina explained to him the qualities of the race of kings of which he

was to be the ancestor. Clovis, one of the greatest of the early

Frankish kings, was the child of Childeric and Basina.

In the sixth century Tournai figured prominently in the narrative of

the furious wars between Fredegonda and Brunehault, one of the great

epics of the early Middle Ages. Fredegonda, who was the daughter of a

bondsman, became by virtue of her beauty and imperious will the wife

of Chilperic, King of the Franks. Brunehault, equally beautiful, but

a king's daughter as well as the wife of a king--Sigebert, brother of

Chilperic--began the contest to avenge the death of her sister

Galeswintha, whom Fredegonda had caused to be slain. Chilperic and

Fredegonda were besieged at Tournai in 575, but the latter caused the

murder of Sigebert, upon whose death the besieging army dispersed.

Incidents in this siege are depicted in the stained-glass windows of

the cathedral. The contest between the two fierce queens lasted more

than half a century, Brunehault at the last being torn to pieces by

wild horses, when more than eighty years old, by the son of her

life-long rival.

In 880 the Norsemen fell upon the city and its inhabitants fled to

Noyon, where they remained for thirty-one years. In its subsequent

history the old town sustained more than its share of sieges, the

common lot of all frontier places, and changed hands oftener than any

other European city. For many generations it was subject to the early

Counts of Flanders. Philip Augustus then annexed it to France, to

which it belonged until the reign of Francis I. In 1340 occurred the

most famous of all its sieges. It belonged at that time to France and

was attacked by the English under Edward III, a huge army of Flemings

under Jacques Van Artevelde, the Duke of Brabant and the Count of

Hainaut with their followers and many others--a host estimated by

Froissart at one hundred and twenty thousand men. That delightful

historian devotes more than a dozen chapters to a gossipy account of

the siege, which lasted more than eleven weeks and was only raised by

the approach of a French army when the supply of provisions was

reduced to three days' rations. In 1513 Tournai was captured by Henry

VIII, who gave the see to Cardinal Wolsey, but soon sold it back to

the French. The huge round tower a little distance to the right as one

enters the city from the railway station was erected by the English

King during his short rule. In 1521 the city was captured by Charles

the Fifth, becoming a part of his domains, and in 1581 it sustained

another famous siege. In common with the rest of Flanders and the Low

Countries, the city had revolted against the atrocities of Philip II.

It was besieged by the Prince of Parma and heroically defended by

Christine, Princess of Epinoy, whose statue stands in the Grande

Place. She was herself wounded and had lost more than three-fourths of

the garrison before she surrendered.

Tournai once more passed into the hands of the French in 1668, when

it was captured by Louis XIV and afterwards elaborately fortified by

Vauban, was retaken by Marlborough in 1709, returned to Austria five

years later, and captured once more by the French after the battle of

Fontenoy in 1745. Four years later it was again restored to Austria,

but was twice taken by the armies of the first French republic,

remaining French territory till the battle of Waterloo. It would be a

difficult matter to say how often its fortifications have been built,

demolished, rebuilt and again destroyed.

The most noteworthy of these later sieges was that of 1745, during the

War of the Austrian Succession, which brought the English and French

into conflict even along the frontiers of their far-off American

colonies. Austrian Flanders became the arena of the decisive campaign

in this war--in which its inhabitants had absolutely no interest or

concern whatever--and Tournai was the prize for which the armies

fought. It was during this and the preceding century that Flanders

became "the cockpit of Europe"--foreign armies sweeping over its

fertile plains in wars the very purpose of which was unknown to the

peasants who helplessly saw their cattle and crops swept away and

their farmsteads and villages destroyed. It is curious to remark how

frequently the English were engaged in these conflicts, particularly

in the vicinity of Tournai. In the words of Lord Beaconsfield,

"Flanders has been trodden by the feet and watered with the blood of

successive generations of British soldiers."

An English force formed the nucleus and the backbone of the allied

army, which was commanded by the Duke of Cumberland, brother of King

George II. The French forces were led by Maurice de Saxe, the greatest

military leader of that generation, as Marlborough had been of the one

before it. King Louis XV--for almost the only time in his long

reign--played the part of a man throughout this campaign. When Saxe

explained his plan of campaign, which involved a scheme of field

fortifications, the "carpet generals" protested loudly that Frenchmen

were well able to meet their foes on open ground. Louis silenced these

arm-chair critics and replied to his great field-marshal, "In

confiding to you the command of my army I intend that every one shall

obey you, and I will be the first to set an example of obedience."

For a time the allies, which consisted of English, Hanoverian, Dutch

and Austrian troops--very few Flemings taking part in this campaign

on either side--were in doubt whether Saxe intended to attack Mons,

St. Ghislain or Tournai. With his usual rapidity of action, the French

leader, when his forces suddenly appeared before Tournai, had that

city completely invested before the allies knew where he was. It was

early in the month of May, and very rainy, when the allied army

started from Brussels and marched through the mud toward the

beleaguered city. On the evening of May tenth, eleven days after the

siege had begun, they arrived within sight of the quintuple towers of

the cathedral and the adjacent belfry. Their position was southeast of

the city, on the route to St. Ghislain and Mons, and the towers were

therefore sharply outlined against the sunset as the army, standing on

rising ground, gazed across the rolling country that was to be the

morrow's battlefield.

Saxe had made the most of the slowness of the allies' advance by

choosing the ground where he would give battle, and strengthening his

position with field redoubts, using the little village of Fontenoy as

a base. The allies attacked from the direction of the little village

of Vezon, while Louis XV watched the battle from a hill near the

intersection of the Mons road with that leading from Ramecroix to

Antoing. The attack began at two o'clock in the morning, the English

advancing in a hollow square, and it was not until after two in the

afternoon that Saxe, after bringing every man in his forces into

action, had the satisfaction of seeing the great square falter and

turn slowly back--halting every hundred yards to beat off its foes.

The fiercest unit in the French army was a brigade of Irish volunteers

who fought like tigers, the men flinging themselves against the

stubborn English square again and again. A learned historian, who has

devoted more than eighty pages to a description of the battle, fails

to give so clear an idea of its decisive moment as does the poet

Thomas Osborne Davis in half as many lines:

"Thrice at the huts of Fontenoy the English column failed,

And twice the lines of Saint Antoine the Dutch in vain assailed;

For town and slope were filled with fort and flanking battery,

And well they swept the English ranks and Dutch auxiliary.

As vainly through De Barri's wood the British soldiers burst,

The French artillery drove them back, diminished and dispersed.

The bloody Duke of Cumberland beheld with anxious eye,

And ordered up his last reserves, his latest chance to try.

On Fontenoy, on Fontenoy, how fast his generals ride!

And mustering came his chosen troops, like clouds at eventide.

"Six thousand English veterans in stately column tread;

Their cannon blaze in front and flank, Lord Hay is at their head.

Steady they step a-down the slope, steady they climb the hill,

Steady they load, steady they fire, moving right onward still,

Betwixt the wood and Fontenoy, as through a furnace blast,

Through rampart, trench and palisade, and bullets showering fast;

And on the open plain above they rose and kept their course,

With ready fire and grim resolve that mocked at hostile force;

Past Fontenoy, past Fontenoy, while thinner grew their ranks,

They broke, as broke the Zuyder Zee through Holland's ocean banks.

* * * * *

"'Push on my household cavalry!' King Louis madly cried.

To death they rush, but rude their shock; not unavenged they died.

On through the camp the column trod--King Louis turns his rein.

'Not yet, my liege,' Saxe interposed; 'the Irish troops remain.'

'Lord Claire,' he said, 'you have your wish; there are your Saxon

foes!'

The Marshal almost smiles to see, so furiously he goes,

How fierce the looks these exiles wear, who're wont to be so gay!

The treasured wrongs of fifty years are in their hearts to-day.

On Fontenoy, on Fontenoy, nor ever yet elsewhere,

Rushed on to fight a nobler band than these proud exiles were.

* * * * *

"Like lions leaping at a fold, when mad with hunger's pang,

Right up against the English line the Irish exiles sprang;

Bright was their steel, 'tis bloody now, their guns are filled with

gore;

Through shattered ranks and severed files and trampled flags they

tore.

The English strove with desperate strength; paused, rallied,

staggered, fled;

The green hillside is matted close with dying and with dead.

Across the plain and far away passed on that hideous wrack

While cavalier and Fantassin rush in upon their track.

On Fontenoy, on Fontenoy, like eagles in the sun,

With bloody plumes the Irish stand--the field is fought and won!"

On our first day's visit the Professor devoted most of the time to the

cathedral and the remains that still exist of the earliest period of

Tournai's long and varied history. As we approached the city, past the

vast excavations around Antoing connected with the lime pits and kilns

and cement works that there abound, we could see the five spires of

the cathedral in the distance. Antoing is only a mile and a half from

Fontenoy, and the battlefield--marked by a monument erected in

1907--is happily free from the pits that scar so much of the

countryside thereabouts, and no doubt looks to-day very much as it did

on the day of the great fight.

The cathedral of Tournai is the oldest, the most vast, and decidedly

the most imposing religious edifice in Belgium. Its five great towers

dominate the entire city and are visible for miles across the

surrounding plains. The oldest portions of the present structure date

from about 880, when the inhabitants of Tournai returned after the

invasion of the Norsemen. The side porches of the naves belong to this

earliest period. In 1054 a fire destroyed the upper part of the

cathedral and it was shortly after this that the towers were built.

There were originally seven of these, the one in the centre being a

gigantic square structure rising above all the others. The group as it

then stood was without a rival in Europe, but the two towers to the

east of the central one were removed with the ancient choir and the

height of the central tower reduced. In their present form, however,

the towers compose a magnificent assemblage.

[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF TOURNAI AND THE FIVE-TOWERED

CATHEDRAL.]

The four outer towers, which surround the now much shorter central

one, are two hundred and seventy-two feet high, and, although

apparently alike at the first glance, are not entirely so--a

circumstance that enhances rather than detracts from the

picturesqueness of the group. Placed at the crossing of the nave and

the transept these towers, from without, suggest the fantastic idea

that instead of one there are two cathedrals, each facing the other,

and with the central tower uniting them.

In reality, the edifice is large enough to make two cathedrals and

more, the interior being four hundred and twenty-six feet in length

and two hundred and twenty feet in width across the transept. Built at

different epochs, this imposing edifice constitutes a veritable

history in stone of the development of mediæval architecture. The nave

was completed in 1070 and the transept in the eleventh and

twelfth centuries. Both are in the Romanesque style, while the

choir--originally Romanesque--was rebuilt in 1242-1325 in the early

Gothic style. It is both longer and almost fifty feet higher than the

older nave--a fact that leads the observer looking at the structure

from without to mistake it for the nave itself. In addition to the

main edifice there is a small parish chapel built against the north

side of the cathedral, a Gothic edifice dating from 1516-1518, while

attached to it by a passage over a picturesque arch called _Le

fausseporte_ is the Bishop's palace. Here there is another chapel, the

Chapel of the Bishops, dating from the twelfth century.

Like most religious structures in Belgium, the cathedral was for many

years surrounded, and almost entirely obscured, by small private

houses of all kinds built up against it. These have now been removed,

although there are still a few more that we were told were destined to

come down in order to give a better view of the structure from one

side. There are three entrances, of which two are noteworthy. One of

these, called the Porte Mantille, is on the north side facing the

Place des Acacias, and dates from the twelfth century. It is the

oldest part of the exterior, and looks it, the round arch of the

doorway being surrounded by quaint Romanesque sculptures. The winds of

seven hundred winters have worn these bas-reliefs down considerably,

but they are still surprisingly clear, the faces, armour and costumes

of the figures being quite distinct. They are among the oldest stone

carvings in Europe and show that the art of sculpture was practised

at Tournai within a century or two after the retirement of the

Norsemen.

Even more interesting is the fine façade just behind the groined porch

that faces the Place de l'Evêché. From a distance this end of the

cathedral is hardly pleasing, the sixteenth-century porch concealing

the early Romanesque façade and being out of harmony with it. After

passing within the arches, however, the visitor forgets all this and

is lost in wonder and admiration at the wealth of stone carving that

decorates the walls on both sides of the main entrance. There is no

such decoration in stone to be seen in all Flanders, for the churches

of Tournai escaped the fury of the iconoclasts--Tournai, at that time,

belonging to France. Here the sculptors of Tournai have achieved a

veritable masterpiece. The work is in three tiers and belongs to three

different periods. The lowest tier, carved in blue stone quarried in

Tournai itself or near by, is the most remarkable, and is regarded by

the critics as the finest in artistic merit. It dates from the

thirteenth century and represents Adam and Eve and various prophets

and fathers of the church. The second zone is in white stone, now grey

with age, and was the work of the sixteenth century. It comprises a

series of small panels carved in bas-relief, those at the left

depicting--so the authorities at Tournai tell us--a religious

procession, and those at the right various incidents in the history of

King Childeric. The highest tier comprises a series of large statues

in high relief of the apostles, the Virgin Mary, St. Piat and St.

Eleuthereus. Although the figures are boldly conceived and well

executed, and, in the main, fairly well preserved, they are

artistically less important than the others. In its entirety, however,

this entrance--"_le portail_," "_the_ entrance," as the people of

Tournai style it--is a place of wonderful interest, a place to be

visited again and again under different lights and in different moods.

Passing into the interior of the cathedral the visitor is again given

the impression that here he is not in one church but at least two and

possibly more. The ancient nave, with its vaulted roof supported by

three series of Romanesque arches placed one above another, seems

somehow to be complete by itself and to have no relation to the

far-off choir which is partially cut off from it by an elaborately

carved rood loft, which--in its flamboyant Renaissance style--seems

out of place and tends to mar the general effect of the vast

interior. The pillars in the nave are not uniform, but have a wide

diversity of capitals--some decorated with the lotus or conventional

foliage, others with beasts or birds or quaint, fantastic heads. At

the intersection of the nave and transept the great pillars supporting

the central tower are of tremendous proportions and the view looking

upward from this point is one of extraordinary grandeur. Here, too,

the rood loft, or _jubé_, can be studied to best advantage. The work

of Corneille Floris of Antwerp and executed in 1572, it is undoubtedly

one of the masterpieces of sculpture of its period. The Doric columns

are of red marble, the architectural outlines of the structure in

black marble, and the medallions and other bas-reliefs in white.

Passing through one of the three arches of this portal we come to the

noble choir. This is the most beautiful portion of the cathedral, its

vast height and the richly coloured light that streams downward from

its fine stained-glass windows creating a very atmosphere of majesty

and inspiration.

While we were inspecting the choir and the ambulatory, which contains

several paintings and carvings of no little interest, the Professor

discovered that the hours had been slipping by faster than we had

imagined and as there were several relics of the earliest period of

the city's history that we wished to visit on our first day we decided

to betake ourselves to the Grande Place and postpone our visit to the

far-famed treasury of the cathedral to another day. We found a little

place to dine directly facing the Belfry, and with the Princess of

Epinoy, in her coat of mail and brandishing her battle-axe, standing

on her monument hard by. The Place is a very large one, but most of

the houses facing it have been so modernized as to lose much of their

mediæval aspect, although the ancient Cloth Hall--which has recently

been restored--no doubt looks much as it did when in its prime.

The Belfry was naturally our first stopping place after we had done

justice to the excellent dinner in half a dozen courses that two

francs had secured for us. This edifice dates from 1187, and stands

slightly back from the apex of the triangle formed by the Grande

Place. According to some authorities the peculiar shape of the Place

is due to the intersection of two Roman roads at the point where the

Belfry now stands. Externally the tower, which is two hundred and

thirty-six feet high, strikingly resembles the Belfry of Ghent.

Within, after climbing a winding stairway for some distance, we

were shown several large rooms with heavy timber ceilings that were

once used as prison cells. They looked fairly comfortable, as compared

with the dungeons in the Château des Comtes, and one of them was then

in use by the small son of the concierge as a play-room and was

littered with toys--mostly of his own manufacture, apparently. The

doors to these "cells" were of massive construction and locked by keys

nearly a foot long, or at least it seemed so, though we did not

measure them. The view from the top of the edifice is picturesque and

well worth the climb. A melodious set of chimes is installed near the

top, which ring every half hour. The big bell, _la Bancloque_, which

called the people to arms, was cast in 1392, and must have been rung

quite frequently during the stirring days when Tournai was being

fought for by armies from half the countries in Europe.

[Illustration: THE BELFRY, TOURNAI.]

From the Belfry we visited the ancient Church of St. Brice which

stands in one of the very oldest quarters of the city. Almost facing

the church are two buildings known as the Roman houses. Although

hardly dating from the time of the Romans they are undoubtedly very

ancient. Only the outer walls, however, remain of the original

construction, the interiors dating from a much later period. One of

these houses was untenanted when we were there, and the other was an

estaminet. We entered it and ordered drinks, and asked if we could see

the up-stairs rooms, but apparently they were not very tidy as the

landlady declined to show them, assuring us that there was nothing to

see. At No. 18 on the same street, rue Barre-Saint-Brice, is another

estaminet in a house of very ancient construction. After quite a

search we found the caretaker of the church. As old as the oldest part

of the cathedral this structure is a remarkable example of Romanesque

architecture. Externally it looks from the rear like three stone barns

built close together, but its square tower is lofty and imposing,

although much injured by a silly sort of hat which was stuck on early

in the last century. The most interesting object within was a quaint

Tournai tapestry representing a variety of Biblical subjects.

In the year 1653 archeologists and historians throughout Europe were

greatly excited over one of the most interesting finds of ancient

relics ever recorded. In the house now No. 8 on the Terrace

Saint-Brice, on one side of the church, was dug up at a depth of eight

feet a veritable museum of arms and jewels since known as the

Treasure of Childeric I, whose marriage with Basina was preceded by so

many portents. More than a hundred gold coins of the Byzantine

Emperors were found, several hundred golden bees, a quantity of silver

money of great antiquity, divers clasps and buckles--all mingled with

the remains of human bones, which may have been those of the

Merovingian King and his imperious spouse. One ring bore a bust of a

man with long hair holding a lance, with the inscription _Childerici

Regis_. After passing through various hands the collection came into

the possession of Louis XIV, and eventually into the Bibliotheque

Royale at Paris. Here, in 1831, it was stolen. The thieves were

pursued and threw their booty into the Seine, where a few pieces were

afterwards recovered and are now in the numismatic collection of the

Bibliotheque Nationale at Paris.

Not far from this interesting old quarter are some picturesque remains

of the ancient city walls, two ivy covered towers facing a moat in

which there is still some water. These are called the Marvis Towers,

and were erected during the thirteenth century. On our way back to the

station we made a little detour in order to see the curious _Pont des

Trous_--literally "the Bridge of the Holes," meaning loopholes--the

most ancient specimen of mediæval military architecture in Belgium.

The tower on the side farthest from the centre of the city was built

prior to 1259, the other in 1304, and the bridge with its three ogival

arches in 1330. Across the bridge at short intervals are narrow

loopholes to enable the defenders to fire at foes approaching by way

of the River Scheldt. One of the towers is said to contain a fine

vaulted room, but as we were unable to find any one who knew who had

the key to the little door at its foot we did not see this room or the

passage-way across the bridge. Between this bridge and the railway

line we noticed a high stone wall of ancient construction which, from

its location, may also have been a fragment of the city walls. Further

on is the Henry VIII tower, which was built by the English monarch

after he captured the city in 1513, as part of a citadel intended to

hold the citizens in check. The tower is slightly over seventy-five

feet in diameter and the walls at the base are said to be twenty feet

thick. The rest of the citadel has long since disappeared and this

vestige of it is now the centre of a pleasant little park much

frequented on sunny days by nursemaids and children. Amid these

peaceful surroundings it was, when we saw it, hard to picture the old

tower as having ever been the scene of fierce conflicts with furious

foes striving to batter a breach in its massive walls or scale it with

long ladders, while its defenders fired volley after volley through

its tiny windows and flung down big stones or boiling tar from its

parapet.

The strategy of the early part of the present war did not call for a

protracted defence of Tournai, with the result that, as this is being

written, the old city is reported to have suffered little or no

damage. In view of the frequency with which it had been contended for

in former wars it is to be hoped that this one--which has so far been

more destructive than all previous wars put together--will pass quaint

old Tournai by and that the great cathedral with its five towers and

marvellous stone carvings may be spared for generations yet to come.

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