The Gaelic revival sends many of us to school in Irish-speaking

districts, and, if it did nothing else, at least it would have sent us

to school in pleasant places among the most lovable preceptors. It was a

blessed change from London to a valley among hills that look over the

Atlantic, with its brown stream tearing down among boulders, and its

heathy banks, where the keen fragrance of bog-myrtle rose as you brushed

through in the morning on your way to the head of a pool. Here was

indeed a desirable academy, and my preceptor matched it. A big,

loose-jointed old man, rough, brownish-gray all over, clothes, hair, and

face; his cheeks were half-hidden by the traditional close-cropped

whisker, and the rest was an ill-shorn stubble. Traditional, too, was

the small, deep-set, blue eye, the large, kindly mouth, uttering English

with a soft brogue, which, as is always the case among those whose real

tongue is Irish, had no trace of vulgarity. Indeed, it would have been

strange that vulgarity of any sort should show in one who had perfect

manners, and the instinct of a scholar, for this preceptor was not even

technically illiterate. He could read and write English, and Irish, too,

which is by no means so common; and I have not often seen a man happier

than he was over Douglas Hyde's collection of Connacht love-songs, which

I had fortunately brought with me. But his main interest was in

history--that history which had been rigorously excluded from his school

training, the history of Ireland. I would go on ahead to fish a pool,

and leave him poring over Hyde's book; but when he picked me up,

conversation went on where it broke off--somewhere among the fortunes of

Desmonds and Burkes, O'Neills and O'Donnells. And when one had hooked a

large sea-trout, on a singularly bad day, in a place where no sea-trout

was expected, it was a little disappointing to find that Charlie's only

remark, as he swept the net under my capture, was: "The Clancartys was

great men too. Is there any of them living?" The scholar in him had

completely got the better of the sportsman.

Beyond his historic lore (which was really considerable, and by no means

inaccurate) he had many songs by heart, some of them made by Carolan,

some by nameless poets, written in the Irish which is spoken to-day. I

wrote down a couple of Charlie's lyrics which had evidently a local

origin; but what I sought was one of the Shanachies who carried in his

memory the classic literature of Ireland, the epics or ballads of an

older day. Charlie was familiar, of course, with the matter of this

"Ossianic" literature, as we all are, for example, with the story of

Ulysses. He knew how Oisin dared to go with a fairy woman to her own

land; how he returned in defiance of her warning; how he found himself

lonely and broken in a changed land; and how, in the end, he gave in to

the teaching of St. Patrick ("Sure how would he stand up against it?"

said Charlie), and was converted to Christ. But all the mass of rhymed

verse which relates the dialogues between Oisin and Patrick, the tales

of Finn and his heroes which Oisin told to the Saint, the fierce answers

with which the old warrior met the Gospel arguments--all this was only

vaguely familiar to him. I was looking for a man who had it by heart.

The search for the repositories of this knowledge leads sometimes into

strange contrasts. One friend of mine lay stretched for long hours on

top of a roof of sticks and peat-scraws which was propped against the

wall of a ruined cabin, while within the evicted tenant, still clinging

to his home as life clings to the shattered body, lay bedridden on a

lair of rushes, and chanted the deeds of heroes; his voice issuing

through the vent in the roof, at once window and chimney, from the

kennel in which was neither room nor light for a man to sit and record

the verses. My own chance was luckier and happier. It came on a day when

a party of us had set out in quest of a remote mountain lough. Our way

led along the river, and as we drove up to where the valley contracted,

and the tillage land decreased in extent and fertility, the type of the

people changed. They were Celts and Catholics, evident to the least

practised eye. A little further still from civilisation we reached the

fringe that was Gaelic not merely in blood; the kindly woman whose

cottage warmed and sheltered us when we returned half-foundered from

plunging through bogs was an Irish speaker. She had no songs herself,

but if I wanted them her neighbour, James Kelly, was the best of

company, and would keep me listening the length of a night.

I pushed my bicycle through a drizzle of misty rain up the road over

mountainous moor, before I saw his cottage standing trim and white under

its thatch in a screen of trees, and as I was nearing it, the boy with

me showed me James down in a hollow, filling a barrow with turf. He

stopped work as I came down, and called off his dog, looking at me

curiously enough, for, indeed, strangers were a rarity in that spot,

clean off the tourist track, and away from any thoroughfare. One's

presence had to be explained out of hand, and I told him exactly why I

had come. He looked surprised and perhaps a little pleased, that his

learning should draw students. But he made no pretence of ignorance; the

only question was, how he could help me. Did I want songs of the modern

kind, or the older songs of Finn Mac-Cool? If it was the latter, it

seemed I was not well able to manage the common talk, and these songs

were written in "very hard Irish, full of ould strong words."

I should like to send the literary Irishmen of my acquaintance one by

one to converse with James Kelly as a salutary discipline. He was

perfectly courteous, but through his courtesy there pierced a kind of

toleration that carried home to one's mind a profound conviction of

ignorance. People talk about the servility of the Irish peasant. Here

was a man who professed his inability to read or write, but stood

perfectly secure in his sense of superior education. His respect for me

grew evidently when he found me familiar with the details of more

stories than he expected. I was raised to the level of a hopeful pupil.

They had been put into English, I told him. "Oh, ay, they would be, in a

sort of a way," said James, with a fine scorn. Soon we broke new ground,

for James had by heart not only the Fenian or Ossianic cycle, but also

the older Sagas of Cuchulain. He confused the cycles, it is true, taking

the Red Branch heroes for contemporaries of the Fianna, which is much as

if one should make Heracles meet Odysseus or Achilles in battle; but he

had these earlier legends by heart, a rare acquirement among the

Shanachies of to-day.

Here then was a type of the Irish illiterate. A man somewhere between

fifty and sixty, at a guess; of middle height, spare and well-knit,

high-nosed, fine-featured, keen-eyed; standing there on his own ground,

courteous and even respectful, yet consciously a scholar; one who had

travelled too--had worked in England and Scotland, and could tell me

that the Highland Gaelic was far nearer to the language of the old days

than the Irish of to-day; finally, one who could recite without apparent

effort long narrative poems in a dead literary dialect. When I find an

English workman who can stand up and repeat the works of Chaucer by

heart, then and not till then I shall see an equivalent for James Kelly.

And yet it would be a different thing entirely. Chaucer has never

survived in oral tradition. But in the West of Donegal, whence James

Kelly's father emigrated to where I found his son, every old person had

this literature in mind, and my friend was no exception. It is among the

younger generation, who have been taught in the National Schools (surely

the most ironic of all titles), that the language and the history of the

nation are dying out. Yet that is changing. For instance, James Kelly's

son reads and writes Irish, and on another day helped me to note down

some of his father's lore.

For it was late when I came first to the house, and though the Shanachie

pressed me (not knowing even my name) to stay the night, I had to depart

for that day, after I had heard him recite in the traditional chant some

staves of an Ossianic lay, and sing to the traditional air Carolan's

famous lyric, "The Lord of Mayo." We drank a glass of whisky from my

flask, a cup of tea that his wife made; and as we went into the house he

asked a favour in a whisper. It was that I should eat plenty of his good

woman's butter. He escorted me a good way over the hill, for, said he,

when I had come that far to see him, it was the least that he should put

me a piece on my road, and he exhorted me to come again for "a good

crack together." And if I deferred visiting him for another year that

was largely because I did not like to face again this illiterate without

acquiring a little more knowledge.

What came of my second visit must be written in another paper. But here,

let it be understood this is no exceptional case. In every three or four

parishes along the Western seaboard and for twenty miles inland, from

Donegal to Kerry, there is the like of James Kelly to be found. It may

be that in another fifty years not one of these Shanachies will linger;

education will have made a clean sweep of illiteracy. And yet again, it

may be that by that time, not only in the Western baronies but through

the length and breadth of Ireland, both song and story and legend will

be living again on the lips and in the hearts of the people. _Go leigidh

Dia sin._

LITERATURE AMONG THE ILLITERATES

II

THE LIFE OF A SONG

There was a great contention some years ago fought out in a law court

between the British Museum and the Royal Irish Academy, for the custody

of certain treasure trove, gold vessels and ornaments disinterred on an

Irish beach. The treasures went back, as was only right, to Ireland,

where is a rich storehouse of such things, for the soil has been dug

over in search for the material relics of ancient art. Yet little heed

has been paid to treasures of far greater worth and interest, harder to

sell, it is true, but easier to come by--the old songs and stories which

linger in oral tradition or in old manuscripts handed down from peasant

to peasant. Only within the last few years did the Irish suddenly awake

to a consciousness that the authentic symbols, or, rather, the

indisputable proofs of the national existence so dear to them, were

slipping out of their hands. So far had the heritage perished, so ill

had the tradition been maintained, that when they turned to revive their

expiring language and literature, the first question asked was, "What is

it you would revive? Was there ever a literature in Irish or merely a

collection of ridiculous rhodomontade? Is there a language, or does

there survive merely a debased jargon, employed by ignorant peasants

among themselves, and chiefly useful, like a thieves' lingo, to baffle

the police?"

These were the questions put, and not one in a thousand of Irish

Nationalists could give an answer according to knowledge.

Now, matters are changed. The books that were available in print have

been read; the work of poets extant only in manuscript has been printed

and widely circulated; the language is studied with zeal, and not in

Ireland only, but wherever Irishmen are gathered. Yet nothing has so

strongly moved me to believe that we cherish the living rather than pay

funeral honours to the dead, as certain hours spent with a peasant who

could neither write nor read.

The life of a song--poets have said it again and again in immortal

verse--is of all lives the most enduring. Kingdoms pass, buildings

crumble, but the work which a man has fashioned "out of a mouthful of

air" defies the centuries; it keeps its shape and its quivering

substance. Strongest of all such lives are perhaps those where "the

mouthful of air" is left by the singer mere air, and no more, unfixed on

paper or parchment; when the song goes from mouth to mouth, altering its

contours it may be, but unchanged in essence, though coloured by its

immediate surroundings as a flower fits itself to each soil. Such was

the song that I had the chance to write down, from lips to which it came

through who knows how many generations.

The story which it tells is among the finest in that great repertory of

legend which, since Ireland began to take count of her own possessions,

has become familiar to the world. It is the theme of a play in the last

book published by the chief of modern Irish poets, Mr. W. B. Yeats. But

since he tells the story in a way of his own, and since it is none too

well known even in those parts of Ireland where its hero's name is a

proverb (_Comh laidir le Cuchulain_, Strong as Cuchulain), it may be

well to set out the legend here.

Cuchulain, the Achilles of Irish epic, was famous from the day in

boyhood when he got his name by killing, bare-handed, the smith's fierce

watchdog that would have torn him. The ransom for the killing was laid

on by the boy himself, and it was that he should watch Culann's house

for a year and a day till a pup should be grown to take the place of the

slain dog. So he came to be called Cu Chulain, Culann's Hound, and by

that name he was known when, as a young champion, he set out for the

Isle of Skye, where the warrior-witch Sgathach (from whom the island is

called) taught the crowning feats of arms to all young heroes who could

pass through the ordeals she laid upon them.

There was no trial that Cuchulain could not support, and the fame of him

drew on a combat with another Amazonian warrior, Aoife, who, in the

story that I heard, was Sgathach's daughter, though Lady Gregory in her

fine book _Cuchulain of Muirthemne_ gives another version. But, at any

rate, Cuchulain defeated Aoife, and she gave love to her

conqueror--whose passion for the fierce queen was not strong enough to

keep him from Ireland. When he made ready to go, the woman warrior told

him that a child was to be born of their embraces, and she asked what

should be done with it. "If it be a girl, keep it," said Cuchulain,

"but if a boy, wait till his thumb can fill this ring"--and he gave her

the circlet--"then send him to me." So he departed, leaving wrath behind

him.

The child born was a son, and Aoife reared him and taught him all feats

of arms that could be taught to a mortal, except one only, and of that

feat only Cuchulain was master: "the way," said James Kelly, prefacing

his ballad with such an explanation as I am now giving, "there would be

none could kill him but his own father." And when the boy had learnt all

and was the perfect warrior, Aoife sent him out to Ireland under a

pledge to refuse his name to any that should ask it, well knowing how

the wardens of the coast would stop him on the shore. It fell out as she

purposed. The young Connlaoch defeated champion after champion till

Cuchulain himself went down, and was recognised by his son. But the

pledge tied Connlaoch's tongue, and only when he lay dying, slain by the

magic throw which Aoife had withheld from his knowledge, could he reveal

himself to his father, the great and childless hero, whose lament for

his lost son is written in the song that I set out to secure, on a day

of sun and rain, last summer, when great soft clouds drove full sail

through the moist atmosphere, their shadows sweeping over brown moor and

green valley, while far away towards the sea, mountain peaks rose purple

and amethystine in the distance.

Twice before this I had been in the little cottage on Cark Mountain;

first, when the chance rumour heard in a neighbouring cabin of a man

with countless songs and stories sent me off to investigate; and for a

second time, when I had come back with a slightly better knowledge of

Gaelic and had taken down a few verses of the poem. These, sent to an

Irish scholar, had sufficed to identify the ballad with one printed in

Miss Brooke's _Reliques of Irish Poetry_, a characteristic production of

the latter days of the eighteenth century, when Macpherson, with his

adaptation of the Ossianic poems, and Bishop Percy, with his gathering

of old English ballads, had set a fashion soon to culminate in Scott's

great achievement.

They proved, however, not identity only but difference; and the ballad

as I have it in full with its nineteen quatrains, is even less like the

longer version given by O'Halloran to Miss Brooke, than the opening

stanzas suggested. In them the variations were mainly textual, and when

I read out O'Halloran's version to James Kelly, his son, a keen

listener, declared a preference for the printed text. But the old man

was of another mind. "It's the same song," he said, "sure enough, but

there's things changed in it, and I know rightly about them. Some one

was giving it the way it would be easier to understand, leaving out the

old hard words. And I did that myself once or twice the last day you

were here, and I was vexed after, when I would be thinking about it. And

this day you will be to take down what I say, let you understand it or

not; just word for word, the right way it should be spoken."

There you have in a glimpse the custodian of legend. The man was

illiterate, technically, but he knew by instinct, as his ancestors had

known before him, that he was the guardian of the life of a song; he

recognised that it was a scripture which he had no right to mutilate or

alter. He had to the full that respect for a work of literature which is

the best indication of a scholar, and for him at least the line was

unbroken from the Ireland of heroes and minstrels to the hour when he

chanted over the poem that some bard in the remote ages had fashioned.

Little wonder, too, for his own way of life was close to that of the

Middle Ages. Below in the valley, where the Swilly River debouches into

its sea lough, was a prosperous little town with banks and railway; but

to reach the bleak brown moor where James Kelly's house stood, you must

climb by one of two roads, each so rough and steep that a bicycle cannot

be ridden down them. Here, in a little screen of scrub alders, stands

the cottage, where three generations of the family live together. His

own home consisted simply of two rooms with no upper story, but it was

trim and comfortable, the dresser well filled, and the big pot over the

turf fire gave out a prosperous steam. The son, a grown man, waited from

his turf-cutting to help in our discussion; the wife was abroad that

day, and one daughter was just starting for market with a web of

homespun cloth which they had dressed in the household. The spinning

wheel stood in the corner; but another girl was busy near the fire with

more modern work, hemming shirts with a machine for a Derry factory, and

the bleached linen was the only thing in the house which had not taken

on the brown tints of peat smoke.

James Kelly himself, as he sat by the fire declaiming at me, was all

browns and greys, like the country outside his door; and his eyes were

like brown streams running through that peaty mountain, with their

movement and sparkle, and their dark depths. At other times easy, like

that of all Irish peasants, his manner changed and grew rough and

imperious when the business began. I must not interrupt with questions.

I must write down, syllable for syllable, that the song might be got

"the right way." It was by no means easy to carry out these directions,

for the poem was written in an Irish not spoken to-day, as unlike as the

Chaucerian English is to our common speech; and even to write down

modern Irish by ear I was poorly qualified. Things were made harder,

too, by the manner of recitation, as traditional as the words. He

chanted, with a continuous vocalisation, and while he chanted, elbow and

knee worked like a fiddler's or piper's marking the time. However, with

persistence, I got the thing down, letting him first say a verse fully

through, then writing line by line or as near as I could; then going

back and asking questions in detail: the son coming to my rescue, when

the old man lost patience (as he did once in every ten minutes) and

interposing usefully in our discussions.

For there were endless discussions as to the meaning of words, and

nothing could be more curious than to see the old man's endeavour to

give in English not merely a bare rendering, but the colour of every

phrase. It made me realise as nothing else could have done, how fine was

his feeling for the shade of a word, and I cannot describe his

dissatisfaction with the poor equivalents he could find. He was happy

enough when the debate drifted into an exposition--always addressed to

his son--of the uses of some rare word in the Irish, the manner of

exposition being by citation of passages from other songs, or phrases

that might occur in talk. I have listened to many a professor doing the

same thing in Greek and Latin, but to none who had a finer instinct for

the business. Kelly's vexation came when he had to "put English on" a

word for me, and the obvious equivalent was not the right one. Sometimes

I could help; sometimes he arrived by himself at what satisfied him,

though once at least it was droll enough. We were at the lines where

Connlaoch, dying, says to his father: "If I could give my secret to any

under the sun, it is to your bright body I would tell it." The trouble

was about the phrase "bright body," for the word "cneas" means literally

"skin," but is used (just like [Greek: chros] in Homer) to signify

"person." What James wanted to convey to me was that the word was not

the common one for "body," and at last he smote his thigh. "Carkidge,"

he cried, "it's carkidge (carcase), 'It is to your clear carkidge I

would tell it.'" A man with less instinct for literature would have said

"body" at once, and never trouble more; but James knew at once too much

and too little, and I give the instance to show how an Irishman

unlettered in English may be deeply imbued with the true spirit of

letters through a literature of his own.

There were, however, several passages where I could get no clear account

of the meaning, and in some I have since found by comparison with the

text which O'Halloran provided for Miss Brooke that Kelly had got the

words twisted. For instance, the first stanza opens simply:--

"There came to us a stout champion,

The hearty champion Connlaoch."

But of the next two lines I could get no clearer rendering than that "he

just came in full through these people for diversion and for fun to

himself." Then the ballad continues at once--for its method is terse and

its transitions abrupt throughout--to give us the words of the men who

meet Connlaoch on his landing:--

"Where have you been, O tender gallant,

Riding like a noble's son?

Methinks by the way of your coming,

You are wandering or astray."

And Connlaoch answers the taunt and the challenge implied:--

"My coming is over seas from the land

Of the High King of the World,

To prove my merry prowess

Athwart the high chiefs of Erin."

(It seemed to me characteristic that the stock epithet of valour should

be "merry" or "laughing.") The ballad added no reply (though in Miss

Brooke's version at this point there is a dialogue of warnings), but

went on to tell in the shortest possible words how Conall Cearnach ("the

Victorious") rode out from Emain Macha and met the challenger:--

"Out started Conall, not weak of hand,

To get news of the noble's son.

Bitter and hard was the way of it;

Conall was tied by Connlaoch."

"'Bring word from us to Hound's head,'

Said the King in fierce sullen tones,

To Dundalk sunny and bright,

To the Hound, Dog's jaw."

Then Cuchulain (thus described by versions of the nickname won when he

broke the jaws of Culann's hound) made answer:--

"Hard for us is hearing of the captivity

Of the man whose plight is told;

And hard it is to try the venom of blades

With the warrior that bound Conall."

But the messenger pleads:--

"Do not think but to go to the rescue

Of the destroying keen dangerous warrior,

Of the hand that had no fear for any,

To loose him, and he fettered."

Then (as Miss Brooke in the majestic manner of the eighteenth century

puts it):--

"Then with firm step and dauntless air,

Cucullin went and thus the foe addrest,

Let me, O valiant knight (he cried),

Thy courtesy request,

To me thy purpose and thy name confide."

And so on through a sonorous description of dialogue and fight till:--

"At length Cucullin's kindling soul arose,

Indignant shame recruited fury lends;

With fatal aim his glittering lance he throws,

And low on earth the dying youth extends."

Or, as I translate almost literally from James Kelly's version, which is

considerably briefer than the text which Miss Brooke has so volubly

expanded:--

"Out set the Hound of the keen, smooth blade

To see the work that Conall made,

Till he pierced with a bitter blow,

That hero youth his hardy foe."

That is all we are told of the fighting; the ballad passes straight to a

terse dramatic dialogue, which Cuchulain opens:--

"Champion, tell your story,

For I see your wounds are heavy;

'Twill be short ere they raise your cairn,

So hide your testament no longer."

"That's what he said to the son," said James Kelly, finishing the verse,

and beginning afresh,

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