Chapter XIX. The Sargasso Sea

If there were no Sargasso Sea there would still have been a legend of

one to satisfy the demand of the mind, in a world of change and motion,

for a place where there was neither. Conscious of the flight of time,

noting the flow of rivers, the wind’s wandering, and the climbing and

falling of the waves of the ocean, the mind has created realms where

time stands still, countries of morning calm and afternoon sunshine,

and spaces where the pulse of the sea is asleep. Peace there was in

the grave, but what was sought was a paradox--something alive and

yet motionless in time and space. There were stagnant pools in the

imagination, grotesqueries, junk heaps, a sense of silences and of slow

decay that was no decay at all but the serenity of noon in a swamp. The

outward symbol of these moods men would have in the world about them.

For uncounted ages that symbol had been a fact of the mid-Atlantic.

People must have known of the Sargasso thousands of years ago, though

the memory of the voyages in which they learned of it is no more, and

the tales that seem to speak of it are not accepted as facts. Plato

had told of the thick waters that rolled over the sunken Atlantis,

preventing the passage of ships. When Columbus entered this sea and

saw tunny fish playing about his caravels, he remembered a story of

Aristotle that certain ships of the Semites, coasting beyond the

Pillars of Hercules, were driven before a gale from the east until they

reached a weedy sea, resembling sunken islands, among which were tunny

fish. On his voyage to Britain Himilco reported that he found vast

fields of floating weeds which retarded his vessels and brought them to

danger.

The ancient view of the Atlantic was that it was a region of baffling

calms and shallow water and mud and seaweed. This was based on Punic

reports, and the Carthaginians told such tales of the open seas

as would frighten other nations from them. Yet their distorted

statements had so much of truth intermixed with error that it is hard

to believe they intended altogether falsely, and were vindicated only

by coincidence when a grassy sea, greater than their dominions at their

widest, was found west of the Azores. With flagrant exaggeration,

however, they had spoken of sea grasses with needle-like tops, a sort

of marine wheat with stalks as close together as in sheaves of grain.

In B.C. 300 Theophrastus had written of wide-leaved weeds that drifted

from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean. In his poetic account of

the African west coast Festus Avienus described in detail the weedy

impediments to navigation, using, so he says, the journals of Punic

ships. Scylax recited that the sea beyond Cerne on the coast of

Mauretania could not be navigated “in consequence of its shallowness,

its muddiness, and its sea grass.” With easy exuberance of fancy Lucian

had told in his _True History_ of encountering a floating forest in

the sea and of sailing right over the tops of the trees toward “that

continent which we supposed lies opposite our own”--a reference which

gains in significance from its casual character.

Though most of them have been lost, there were strange Sargasso

legends in the ancient world, based on reports of floating seaweed and

the claims of captains that this had put them in hazard. What weedy

growths could do in restless water men knew by observing their effects

in rivers, notably on the upper Nile. The envoys of Nero had been

halted there by a sea of floating vegetation; a long line of travelers

thereafter had a like experience, and a tragedy of this floating

greenery is of our own time. By the blocking of the Nile channel in

1880 Gessi was held prisoner for three months with five companies of

soldiers and a multitude of freed slaves, and most of them died before

help came.

The burden of these old fables was of a stagnant death in silent spaces

of the sea where nothing ever happened. The weedy continent was a trap

which closed in upon ships and suffered no escape, even though with

double banks of oars the rowers strove. Death claimed the crew, and

slowly the sea claimed the galleys. Marine plants crept over bow and

stern and writhed into the cabins and climbed the masts and swathed all

in a green decay; and silently, as the timbers parted below and the

weight of vegetation massed above, the vessel sank, perhaps into some

harbor of the lost Atlantis.

A prison for lost souls, the St. Brendan legend calls the grassy sea

of the west. The ferment was working in men’s imaginations. There must

be a spectral haven in the sea, a place into which vessels might come,

out of which they could not go. For a while in the waters of the east

this was the Island of Lodestone, which drew and held to itself all

craft that had iron in their timbers. In Maundeville the legend of

the Sargasso Sea is full blown, though with him it is truth--travel

truth--of a magnetic rock.

“I myself,” he said, “have seen afar off in that Sea as though it had

been a great Isle full of Trees and Bush, full of Thorns and Briars,

great Plenty. And the Shipmen told us, that all that was of Ships that

were drawn thither by the Adamants, for the Iron that was in them. And

from the Rottenness and other Things that were within the Ships, grew

such Bush, and Thorns and Briars and green Grass and such manner of

Things, and from the Masts and the Sail-yards it seemed a great Wood or

a Grove. And such Rocks be in many Places thereabouts. And therefore

dare not the Merchants pass there, but if they know well the Passages,

or else that they have good Pilots. And also they dread the long Way

more far by many dreadful Days’ journeys than Cathay.”

Thus the Port of Missing Ships came into view as the creation of

classic and mediæval legend, to which modern exploration had given a

sure place in the sea. It fulfilled a stagnant something in the souls

of men. It offered harbor to certain of their dreams. It yielded a

last resting place to derelicts that had wandered far, among them the

derelicts of fancy. It gave reply to questions that arose whenever

the argosies went out and did not come back. Against the eternal

restlessness and fated journeyings of the Flying Dutchman it summoned

up the picture of a fated and eternal calm. It added to the terrors of

the sea a horror that was half poetry. This became poetry altogether

when men had ceased to believe and yet wanted to believe, and in their

art evoked the vision of ruinous hulks of Tyrian, Roman, and Spanish

ships side by side upon a spectral main, silent witnesses of all the

maritime adventures of mankind.

The actuality behind the mask of legend, a vast expanse of sea in the

Atlantic, in many places resembling an inundated meadow, Columbus

discovered on his first voyage, when for three weeks he traversed it.

But instead of having misgivings, he rejoiced at what he conceived to

be evidence that land was not far distant. On one of the floating weed

masses he saw a white tropical bird of a kind that does not sleep upon

the sea. His journal speaks little of the apprehensions of the sailors,

but his son Fernando recites these--their fears that the weeds, which

plainly retarded the ships, would halt them altogether; that the

marine growths might conceal the lurking rocks, shoals and quicksands

of a shallowing ocean; and that, run aground or fatally entangled in

gulfweed, the ships might rot and fall apart far from any shore or any

hope of aid. Memories of the Atlantis legend raised in their minds the

menace of drowned lands and the monumental ruins of a lost continent.

To Columbus, however, the Sargasso Sea stood, not for a lost continent,

but for the boundary between the worlds. Where it began, west of the

Azores, the New World began also, and the Old World ended. This was

no theoretical meridian, he thought, but a true physical line of

demarcation drawn by nature between the hemispheres. He could sense a

difference in climatic conditions in crossing the line, and the compass

seemed to show magnetic deviations. On his return he believed that he

could determine his longitude by observing the first floating masses

of tangled seaweed. So persuasive was his imaginative force, so great

his influence in Europe, that soon after his arrival there the eastern

boundary of the weedy sea became the globe’s first, and last, political

boundary of an all-embracing kind. Title to newly discovered lands

east of it was awarded by a papal bull to Portugal. Title to newly

discovered lands west of it was awarded to Spain.

Oviedo gave this expanse the name of Sargasso Sea, from Sargaço, the

Portuguese word for seaweed. It was freely traversed by the explorers

who followed Columbus. The world-rounding expedition of Drake reports

that for five days “wee sayled through the sea of Weedes, about the

space of one hundred leagues, being under the Tropicke of Cancer.” The

size and exact location of the sea were long a matter of conjecture.

Varenius, for example, placed its northern limit opposite the

mid-Sahara and its southern opposite the Cape of Good Hope. The note

of Humboldt in his _Views of Nature_, published near the middle of

the nineteenth century, is the first scientific account of it. This

was based on rather scanty observations of English and Dutch sailing

vessels which took a course through it from the West Indies to Europe.

Humboldt thought the Sargasso Sea comprised two weed banks, the larger

one west of the Azores, the smaller between the Bermudas and Bahamas,

with a transverse band connecting them. Fuller reports, since made by

steamers, with the careful records of the German Hydrographic Office,

have enabled scientists, and particularly Doctor Krümmel, to correct

these conclusions and plot the true outlines of the sea.

The Equatorial Current sets west from the coast of Africa. The Gulf

Stream sets north and east from the Straits of Florida--still following

the direction, Donnelly ingeniously contended, that was given it by the

lost continent of Atlantis, around which it flowed. The two currents,

moving in nearly opposite directions, impart a circular motion to

the waters that lie between, so that all things adrift over an area

of millions of square miles, seaweed, driftwood, and hulks of ships

are drawn toward a common center, which may be called the floating

storehouse of the North Atlantic. Banks of weed are found as far west

as the Bermudas, and this outer grassy sea covers an expanse of about

three million square miles, or as much as continental United States.

But the true Sargasso Sea of dead waters, where gulfweed is found

thickly, covers an area of about one million two hundred thousand

square miles, or the size of the Mississippi Valley. It is an ellipse

with the Tropic of Cancer as its longer axis. The sea stretches through

fifteen degrees of latitude and more than twenty-five degrees of

longitude, the two foci of the ellipse being near 45° and 70° west.

With the shift of winds and calms the weedy sea itself shifts somewhat,

but its mean location remains unchanged. Humboldt was convinced that in

his time it was precisely where Columbus had found it three and a half

centuries before, and Maury’s study of marine observations leads to the

conclusion that there has been no change in the last fifty years. Of

all the larger aspects of nature this is perhaps the only one that is

just as it was in the time of Columbus. During thousands of years, when

the ocean was battering at the coasts of the continents, breaking down

or building up the shore; when earthquakes and volcanoes were causing

islands to appear and disappear; when the wind and rain were at their

unending tasks of bearing everything terrestrial into the deeps; and

when races of men were remodeling some small portions of the earth’s

surface with roads and ports and bridges, the Sargasso Sea may have

been the only thing immune from change. This eternal vortex might well

be called the true Navel of the World.

Even now, when many ships ply these waters, and after the records

of centuries seem to have assured that there are no reefs or shoals

under their greenery, travelers admit a sense of uneasiness as their

craft plunges into what seems a sunken meadow. Nearer view, however,

discloses that the patches of vegetation are discontinuous. The larger

single masses may be several acres in extent, or may not be more than a

hundred feet across. The weeds commonly lie in long parallel rows that

tail to the prevailing winds. By noting the rows, the mariner can tell

whether the wind has been blowing steadily, or has recently shifted,

and in which direction. The lines are sometimes so near together as to

seem one mass, or they may be as far apart as two hundred feet. In some

places the weeds in them barely touch, in others they are so crowded

that their tops are thrust a little distance above the water.

A distinctive fauna, sparse in species but unnumbered in individuals,

has been developed among these masses. The floating berries are thickly

incrusted with white polyzoa. About sixty animal species peculiar

to the area have been noted, among them small fish, shrimps, crabs,

molluscs, gastropods, and one insect. The fishes have developed a

strong protective resemblance to the shapeless weeds among which they

feed. Strangest of these is the _Antennarius marmoratus_, a little

creature not more than four inches long and indistinguishable from a

plant spray. It seems half adapted for walking; its fins, which suggest

the extremities of four-footed creatures, have real toes, and the front

fins have the form of arms with elbows and fingered hands.

The Prince of Monaco conducted a scientific expedition into these

waters in 1905, and in 1911 the United States Hydrographic Service sent

a party of scientists for a three months’ study of them; but adequate

knowledge is still wanting.

There is a Sargasso question: How does the weed get into the sea? The

old theory was that it is a true oceanic plant. To those who held to

the belief in a sunken continent the grassy domain was a sort of canopy

suspended over it, the flying banners of the lost Atlantis. There is

still good scientific opinion of which the French are the leaders, that

the weed grows in the area where it is found, reproducing itself by

fissure, the parent stem throwing off branches which multiply in turn.

The bulk of scientific opinion outside of France is that these meadows

of the sea are the spoil of the neighboring islands and continents. The

gulfweed which covers them, it is held, has been torn from the shores

of northern Brazil, of the West Indies, and of North America as far as

Cape Cod, and has drifted into this vortex--a journey that may take

almost half a year. The French contend that even without these admitted

contributions from America there would still be a weedy sea about the

Tropic of the Crab.

From time to time commercial enterprise has canvassed the possibilities

of a Sargasso adventure. It may be that a profitable fishery will

yet be established there with the Azores for its base, and that the

kelp will be converted into potash for fertilizer or for gunpowder.

Thus would the arts of war and peace draw support from the sea, that,

if legend speaks truly, sleeps over the continent which spread them

through the antediluvian world.

The coasts of illusion · 第 19 / 25 章