CHAPTER 60

Speculations and Conclusions

WE reached St. Paul, at the head of navigation of the Mississippi, and

there our voyage of two thousand miles from New Orleans ended. It is

about a ten-day trip by steamer. It can probably be done quicker by

rail. I judge so because I know that one may go by rail from St. Louis

to Hannibal--a distance of at least a hundred and twenty miles--in seven

hours. This is better than walking; unless one is in a hurry.

The season being far advanced when we were in New Orleans, the roses and

magnolia blossoms were falling; but here in St. Paul it was the snow,

In New Orleans we had caught an occasional withering breath from over a

crater, apparently; here in St. Paul we caught a frequent benumbing one

from over a glacier, apparently.

But I wander from my theme. St. Paul is a wonderful town. It is put

together in solid blocks of honest brick and stone, and has the air of

intending to stay. Its post-office was established thirty-six years ago;

and by and by, when the postmaster received a letter, he carried it to

Washington, horseback, to inquire what was to be done with it. Such is

the legend. Two frame houses were built that year, and several persons

were added to the population. A recent number of the leading St. Paul

paper, the 'Pioneer Press,' gives some statistics which furnish a vivid

contrast to that old state of things, to wit: Population, autumn of the

present year (1882), 71,000; number of letters handled, first half of

the year, 1,209,387; number of houses built during three-quarters of

the year, 989; their cost, $3,186,000. The increase of letters over the

corresponding six months of last year was fifty per cent. Last year

the new buildings added to the city cost above $4,500,000. St.

Paul's strength lies in her commerce--I mean his commerce. He is a

manufacturing city, of course--all the cities of that region are--but

he is peculiarly strong in the matter of commerce. Last year his jobbing

trade amounted to upwards of $52,000,000.

He has a custom-house, and is building a costly capitol to replace the

one recently burned--for he is the capital of the State. He has churches

without end; and not the cheap poor kind, but the kind that the rich

Protestant puts up, the kind that the poor Irish 'hired-girl' delights

to erect. What a passion for building majestic churches the Irish

hired-girl has. It is a fine thing for our architecture but too often we

enjoy her stately fanes without giving her a grateful thought. In

fact, instead of reflecting that 'every brick and every stone in this

beautiful edifice represents an ache or a pain, and a handful of sweat,

and hours of heavy fatigue, contributed by the back and forehead and

bones of poverty,' it is our habit to forget these things entirely,

and merely glorify the mighty temple itself, without vouchsafing one

praiseful thought to its humble builder, whose rich heart and withered

purse it symbolizes.

This is a land of libraries and schools. St. Paul has three public

libraries, and they contain, in the aggregate, some forty thousand

books. He has one hundred and sixteen school-houses, and pays out more

than seventy thousand dollars a year in teachers' salaries.

There is an unusually fine railway station; so large is it, in fact,

that it seemed somewhat overdone, in the matter of size, at first;

but at the end of a few months it was perceived that the mistake was

distinctly the other way. The error is to be corrected.

The town stands on high ground; it is about seven hundred feet above

the sea level. It is so high that a wide view of river and lowland is

offered from its streets.

It is a very wonderful town indeed, and is not finished yet. All

the streets are obstructed with building material, and this is being

compacted into houses as fast as possible, to make room for more--for

other people are anxious to build, as soon as they can get the use of

the streets to pile up their bricks and stuff in.

How solemn and beautiful is the thought, that the earliest pioneer of

civilization, the van-leader of civilization, is never the steamboat,

never the railroad, never the newspaper, never the Sabbath-school, never

the missionary--but always whiskey! Such is the case. Look history over;

you will see. The missionary comes after the whiskey--I mean he arrives

after the whiskey has arrived; next comes the poor immigrant, with ax

and hoe and rifle; next, the trader; next, the miscellaneous rush; next,

the gambler, the desperado, the highwayman, and all their kindred in sin

of both sexes; and next, the smart chap who has bought up an old grant

that covers all the land; this brings the lawyer tribe; the vigilance

committee brings the undertaker. All these interests bring the

newspaper; the newspaper starts up politics and a railroad; all hands

turn to and build a church and a jail--and behold, civilization

is established for ever in the land. But whiskey, you see, was the

van-leader in this beneficent work. It always is. It was like a

foreigner--and excusable in a foreigner--to be ignorant of this great

truth, and wander off into astronomy to borrow a symbol. But if he had

been conversant with the facts, he would have said--

Westward the Jug of Empire takes its way.

This great van-leader arrived upon the ground which St. Paul now

occupies, in June 1837. Yes, at that date, Pierre Parrant, a Canadian,

built the first cabin, uncorked his jug, and began to sell whiskey to

the Indians. The result is before us.

All that I have said of the newness, briskness, swift progress, wealth,

intelligence, fine and substantial architecture, and general slash

and go, and energy of St. Paul, will apply to his near neighbor,

Minneapolis--with the addition that the latter is the bigger of the two

cities.

These extraordinary towns were ten miles apart, a few months ago, but

were growing so fast that they may possibly be joined now, and getting

along under a single mayor. At any rate, within five years from

now there will be at least such a substantial ligament of buildings

stretching between them and uniting them that a stranger will not be

able to tell where the one Siamese twin leaves off and the other begins.

Combined, they will then number a population of two hundred and fifty

thousand, if they continue to grow as they are now growing. Thus, this

center of population at the head of Mississippi navigation, will then

begin a rivalry as to numbers, with that center of population at the

foot of it--New Orleans.

Minneapolis is situated at the falls of St. Anthony, which stretch

across the river, fifteen hundred feet, and have a fall of eighty-two

feet--a waterpower which, by art, has been made of inestimable

value, business-wise, though somewhat to the damage of the Falls as

a spectacle, or as a background against which to get your photograph

taken.

Thirty flouring-mills turn out two million barrels of the very choicest

of flour every year; twenty sawmills produce two hundred million feet

of lumber annually; then there are woolen mills, cotton mills, paper

and oil mills; and sash, nail, furniture, barrel, and other factories,

without number, so to speak. The great flouring-mills here and at St.

Paul use the 'new process' and mash the wheat by rolling, instead of

grinding it.

Sixteen railroads meet in Minneapolis, and sixty-five passenger trains

arrive and depart daily. In this place, as in St. Paul, journalism

thrives. Here there are three great dailies, ten weeklies, and three

monthlies.

There is a university, with four hundred students--and, better still,

its good efforts are not confined to enlightening the one sex. There are

sixteen public schools, with buildings which cost $500,000; there are

six thousand pupils and one hundred and twenty-eight teachers. There

are also seventy churches existing, and a lot more projected. The banks

aggregate a capital of $3,000,000, and the wholesale jobbing trade of

the town amounts to $50,000,000 a year.

Near St. Paul and Minneapolis are several points of interest--Fort

Snelling, a fortress occupying a river-bluff a hundred feet high; the

falls of Minnehaha, White-bear Lake, and so forth. The beautiful falls

of Minnehaha are sufficiently celebrated--they do not need a lift from

me, in that direction. The White-bear Lake is less known. It is a lovely

sheet of water, and is being utilized as a summer resort by the wealth

and fashion of the State. It has its club-house, and its hotel, with the

modern improvements and conveniences; its fine summer residences; and

plenty of fishing, hunting, and pleasant drives. There are a dozen minor

summer resorts around about St. Paul and Minneapolis, but the White-bear

Lake is the resort. Connected with White-bear Lake is a most idiotic

Indian legend. I would resist the temptation to print it here, if I

could, but the task is beyond my strength. The guide-book names the

preserver of the legend, and compliments his 'facile pen.' Without

further comment or delay then, let us turn the said facile pen loose

upon the reader--

A LEGEND OF WHITE-BEAR LAKE.

Every spring, for perhaps a century, or as long as there has been a

nation of red men, an island in the middle of White-bear Lake has been

visited by a band of Indians for the purpose of making maple sugar.

Tradition says that many springs ago, while upon this island, a young

warrior loved and wooed the daughter of his chief, and it is said, also,

the maiden loved the warrior. He had again and again been refused her

hand by her parents, the old chief alleging that he was no brave, and

his old consort called him a woman!

The sun had again set upon the 'sugar-bush,' and the bright moon rose

high in the bright blue heavens, when the young warrior took down his

flute and went out alone, once more to sing the story of his love, the

mild breeze gently moved the two gay feathers in his head-dress, and as

he mounted on the trunk of a leaning tree, the damp snow fell from his

feet heavily. As he raised his flute to his lips, his blanket slipped

from his well-formed shoulders, and lay partly on the snow beneath. He

began his weird, wild love-song, but soon felt that he was cold, and as

he reached back for his blanket, some unseen hand laid it gently on his

shoulders; it was the hand of his love, his guardian angel. She took her

place beside him, and for the present they were happy; for the Indian

has a heart to love, and in this pride he is as noble as in his own

freedom, which makes him the child of the forest. As the legend runs, a

large white-bear, thinking, perhaps, that polar snows and dismal winter

weather extended everywhere, took up his journey southward. He at length

approached the northern shore of the lake which now bears his name,

walked down the bank and made his way noiselessly through the deep heavy

snow toward the island. It was the same spring ensuing that the lovers

met. They had left their first retreat, and were now seated among the

branches of a large elm which hung far over the lake. (The same tree is

still standing, and excites universal curiosity and interest.) For fear

of being detected, they talked almost in a whisper, and now, that they

might get back to camp in good time and thereby avoid suspicion, they

were just rising to return, when the maiden uttered a shriek which was

heard at the camp, and bounding toward the young brave, she caught his

blanket, but missed the direction of her foot and fell, bearing the

blanket with her into the great arms of the ferocious monster. Instantly

every man, woman, and child of the band were upon the bank, but all

unarmed. Cries and wailings went up from every mouth. What was to be

done'? In the meantime this white and savage beast held the breathless

maiden in his huge grasp, and fondled with his precious prey as if he

were used to scenes like this. One deafening yell from the lover warrior

is heard above the cries of hundreds of his tribe, and dashing away

to his wigwam he grasps his faithful knife, returns almost at a single

bound to the scene of fear and fright, rushes out along the leaning tree

to the spot where his treasure fell, and springing with the fury of

a mad panther, pounced upon his prey. The animal turned, and with one

stroke of his huge paw brought the lovers heart to heart, but the next

moment the warrior, with one plunge of the blade of his knife, opened

the crimson sluices of death, and the dying bear relaxed his hold.

That night there was no more sleep for the band or the lovers, and as

the young and the old danced about the carcass of the dead monster, the

gallant warrior was presented with another plume, and ere another moon

had set he had a living treasure added to his heart. Their children for

many years played upon the skin of the white-bear--from which the lake

derives its name--and the maiden and the brave remembered long the

fearful scene and rescue that made them one, for Kis-se-me-pa and

Ka-go-ka could never forget their fearful encounter with the huge

monster that came so near sending them to the happy hunting-ground.

It is a perplexing business. First, she fell down out of the tree--she

and the blanket; and the bear caught her and fondled her--her and the

blanket; then she fell up into the tree again--leaving the blanket;

meantime the lover goes war-whooping home and comes back 'heeled,'

climbs the tree, jumps down on the bear, the girl jumps down after

him--apparently, for she was up the tree--resumes her place in the

bear's arms along with the blanket, the lover rams his knife into the

bear, and saves--whom, the blanket? No--nothing of the sort. You get

yourself all worked up and excited about that blanket, and then all of

a sudden, just when a happy climax seems imminent you are let down

flat--nothing saved but the girl. Whereas, one is not interested in

the girl; she is not the prominent feature of the legend. Nevertheless,

there you are left, and there you must remain; for if you live a

thousand years you will never know who got the blanket. A dead man could

get up a better legend than this one. I don't mean a fresh dead man

either; I mean a man that's been dead weeks and weeks.

We struck the home-trail now, and in a few hours were in that

astonishing Chicago--a city where they are always rubbing the lamp, and

fetching up the genii, and contriving and achieving new impossibilities.

It is hopeless for the occasional visitor to try to keep up with

Chicago--she outgrows his prophecies faster than he can make them.

She is always a novelty; for she is never the Chicago you saw when you

passed through the last time. The Pennsylvania road rushed us to New

York without missing schedule time ten minutes anywhere on the route;

and there ended one of the most enjoyable five-thousand-mile journeys I

have ever had the good fortune to make.

APPENDIX

APPENDIX A

(FROM THE NEW ORLEANS TIMES DEMOCRAT OF MARCH 29, 1882.)

VOYAGE OF THE TIMES-DEMOCRAT'S RELIEF BOAT THROUGH THE INUNDATED REGIONS

IT was nine o'clock Thursday morning when the 'Susie' left the

Mississippi and entered Old River, or what is now called the mouth of

the Red. Ascending on the left, a flood was pouring in through and over

the levees on the Chandler plantation, the most northern point in Pointe

Coupee parish. The water completely covered the place, although the

levees had given way but a short time before. The stock had been

gathered in a large flat-boat, where, without food, as we passed, the

animals were huddled together, waiting for a boat to tow them off. On

the right-hand side of the river is Turnbull's Island, and on it is a

large plantation which formerly was pronounced one of the most fertile

in the State. The water has hitherto allowed it to go scot-free in usual

floods, but now broad sheets of water told only where fields were. The

top of the protecting levee could be seen here and there, but nearly all

of it was submerged.

The trees have put on a greener foliage since the water has poured in,

and the woods look bright and fresh, but this pleasant aspect to the eye

is neutralized by the interminable waste of water. We pass mile after

mile, and it is nothing but trees standing up to their branches in

water. A water-turkey now and again rises and flies ahead into the long

avenue of silence. A pirogue sometimes flits from the bushes and crosses

the Red River on its way out to the Mississippi, but the sad-faced

paddlers never turn their heads to look at our boat. The puffing of the

boat is music in this gloom, which affects one most curiously. It is not

the gloom of deep forests or dark caverns, but a peculiar kind of solemn

silence and impressive awe that holds one perforce to its recognition.

We passed two negro families on a raft tied up in the willows this

morning. They were evidently of the well-to-do class, as they had a

supply of meal and three or four hogs with them. Their rafts were about

twenty feet square, and in front of an improvised shelter earth had been

placed, on which they built their fire.

The current running down the Atchafalaya was very swift, the Mississippi

showing a predilection in that direction, which needs only to be seen to

enforce the opinion of that river's desperate endeavors to find a short

way to the Gulf. Small boats, skiffs, pirogues, etc., are in great

demand, and many have been stolen by piratical negroes, who take them

where they will bring the greatest price. From what was told me by Mr.

C. P. Ferguson, a planter near Red River Landing, whose place has just

gone under, there is much suffering in the rear of that place. The

negroes had given up all thoughts of a crevasse there, as the upper

levee had stood so long, and when it did come they were at its mercy.

On Thursday a number were taken out of trees and off of cabin roofs and

brought in, many yet remaining.

One does not appreciate the sight of earth until he has traveled through

a flood. At sea one does not expect or look for it, but here, with

fluttering leaves, shadowy forest aisles, house-tops barely visible, it

is expected. In fact a grave-yard, if the mounds were above water, would

be appreciated. The river here is known only because there is an opening

in the trees, and that is all. It is in width, from Fort Adams on the

left bank of the Mississippi to the bank of Rapides Parish, a distance

of about sixty miles. A large portion of this was under cultivation,

particularly along the Mississippi and back of the Red. When Red River

proper was entered, a strong current was running directly across it,

pursuing the same direction as that of the Mississippi.

After a run of some hours, Black River was reached. Hardly was it

entered before signs of suffering became visible. All the willows

along the banks were stripped of their leaves. One man, whom your

correspondent spoke to, said that he had had one hundred and fifty head

of cattle and one hundred head of hogs. At the first appearance of water

he had started to drive them to the high lands of Avoyelles, thirty-five

miles off, but he lost fifty head of the beef cattle and sixty hogs.

Black River is quite picturesque, even if its shores are under water.

A dense growth of ash, oak, gum, and hickory make the shores almost

impenetrable, and where one can get a view down some avenue in

the trees, only the dim outlines of distant trunks can be barely

distinguished in the gloom.

A few miles up this river, the depth of water on the banks was fully

eight feet, and on all sides could be seen, still holding against the

strong current, the tops of cabins. Here and there one overturned was

surrounded by drift-wood, forming the nucleus of possibly some future

island.

In order to save coal, as it was impossible to get that fuel at any

point to be touched during the expedition, a look-out was kept for a

wood-pile. On rounding a point a pirogue, skilfully paddled by a youth,

shot out, and in its bow was a girl of fifteen, of fair face, beautiful

black eyes, and demure manners. The boy asked for a paper, which was

thrown to him, and the couple pushed their tiny craft out into the swell

of the boat.

Presently a little girl, not certainly over twelve years, paddled out in

the smallest little canoe and handled it with all the deftness of an old

voyageur. The little one looked more like an Indian than a white child,

and laughed when asked if she were afraid. She had been raised in a

pirogue and could go anywhere. She was bound out to pick willow leaves

for the stock, and she pointed to a house near by with water three

inches deep on the floors. At its back door was moored a raft about

thirty feet square, with a sort of fence built upon it, and inside of

this some sixteen cows and twenty hogs were standing. The family did not

complain, except on account of losing their stock, and promptly brought

a supply of wood in a flat.

From this point to the Mississippi River, fifteen miles, there is not

a spot of earth above water, and to the westward for thirty-five miles

there is nothing but the river's flood. Black River had risen during

Thursday, the 23rd, 1{three-quarters} inches, and was going up at night

still. As we progress up the river habitations become more frequent,

but are yet still miles apart. Nearly all of them are deserted, and the

out-houses floated off. To add to the gloom, almost every living thing

seems to have departed, and not a whistle of a bird nor the bark of

the squirrel can be heard in this solitude. Sometimes a morose gar

will throw his tail aloft and disappear in the river, but beyond this

everything is quiet--the quiet of dissolution. Down the river floats

now a neatly whitewashed hen-house, then a cluster of neatly split

fence-rails, or a door and a bloated carcass, solemnly guarded by a pair

of buzzards, the only bird to be seen, which feast on the carcass as it

bears them along. A picture-frame in which there was a cheap lithograph

of a soldier on horseback, as it floated on told of some hearth invaded

by the water and despoiled of this ornament.

At dark, as it was not prudent to run, a place alongside the woods was

hunted and to a tall gum-tree the boat was made fast for the night.

A pretty quarter of the moon threw a pleasant light over forest and

river, making a picture that would be a delightful piece of landscape

study, could an artist only hold it down to his canvas. The motion of

the engines had ceased, the puffing of the escaping steam was stilled,

and the enveloping silence closed upon us, and such silence it was!

Usually in a forest at night one can hear the piping of frogs, the hum

of insects, or the dropping of limbs; but here nature was dumb. The dark

recesses, those aisles into this cathedral, gave forth no sound, and

even the ripplings of the current die away.

At daylight Friday morning all hands were up, and up the Black we

started. The morning was a beautiful one, and the river, which is

remarkably straight, put on its loveliest garb. The blossoms of the haw

perfumed the air deliciously, and a few birds whistled blithely along

the banks. The trees were larger, and the forest seemed of older growth

than below. More fields were passed than nearer the mouth, but the same

scene presented itself--smoke-houses drifting out in the pastures,

negro quarters anchored in confusion against some oak, and the modest

residence just showing its eaves above water. The sun came up in a

glory of carmine, and the trees were brilliant in their varied shades

of green. Not a foot of soil is to be seen anywhere, and the water is

apparently growing deeper and deeper, for it reaches up to the branches

of the largest trees. All along, the bordering willows have been denuded

of leaves, showing how long the people have been at work gathering this

fodder for their animals. An old man in a pirogue was asked how the

willow leaves agreed with his cattle. He stopped in his work, and with

an ominous shake of his head replied: 'Well, sir, it 's enough to keep

warmth in their bodies and that's all we expect, but it's hard on the

hogs, particularly the small ones. They is dropping off powerful fast.

But what can you do? It 's all we've got.'

At thirty miles above the mouth of Black River the water extends from

Natchez on the Mississippi across to the pine hills of Louisiana, a

distance of seventy-three miles, and there is hardly a spot that is not

ten feet under it. The tendency of the current up the Black is toward

the west. In fact, so much is this the case, the waters of Red River

have been driven down from toward the Calcasieu country, and the waters

of the Black enter the Red some fifteen miles above the mouth of the

former, a thing never before seen by even the oldest steamboatmen. The

water now in sight of us is entirely from the Mississippi.

Up to Trinity, or rather Troy, which is but a short distance below,

the people have nearly all moved out, those remaining having enough for

their present personal needs. Their cattle, though, are suffering and

dying off quite fast, as the confinement on rafts and the food they get

breeds disease.

After a short stop we started, and soon came to a section where there

were many open fields and cabins thickly scattered about. Here were seen

more pictures of distress. On the inside of the houses the inmates

had built on boxes a scaffold on which they placed the furniture. The

bed-posts were sawed off on top, as the ceiling was not more than four

feet from the improvised floor. The buildings looked very insecure,

and threatened every moment to float off. Near the houses were cattle

standing breast high in the water, perfectly impassive. They did not

move in their places, but stood patiently waiting for help to come. The

sight was a distressing one, and the poor creatures will be sure to

die unless speedily rescued. Cattle differ from horses in this peculiar

quality. A horse, after finding no relief comes, will swim off in search

of food, whereas a beef will stand in its tracks until with exhaustion

it drops in the water and drowns.

At half-past twelve o'clock a hail was given from a flat-boat inside the

line of the bank. Rounding to we ran alongside, and General York stepped

aboard. He was just then engaged in getting off stock, and welcomed the

'Times-Democrat' boat heartily, as he said there was much need for her.

He said that the distress was not exaggerated in the least. People were

in a condition it was difficult even for one to imagine. The water was

so high there was great danger of their houses being swept away. It had

already risen so high that it was approaching the eaves, and when it

reaches this point there is always imminent risk of their being swept

away. If this occurs, there will be great loss of life. The General

spoke of the gallant work of many of the people in their attempts to

save their stock, but thought that fully twenty-five per cent. had

perished. Already twenty-five hundred people had received rations from

Troy, on Black River, and he had towed out a great many cattle, but a

very great quantity remained and were in dire need. The water was now

eighteen inches higher than in 1874, and there was no land between

Vidalia and the hills of Catahoula.

At two o'clock the 'Susie' reached Troy, sixty-five miles above the

mouth of Black River. Here on the left comes in Little River; just

beyond that the Ouachita, and on the right the Tensas. These three

rivers form the Black River. Troy, or a portion of it, is situated on

and around three large Indian mounds, circular in shape, which rise

above the present water about twelve feet. They are about one hundred

and fifty feet in diameter, and are about two hundred yards apart. The

houses are all built between these mounds, and hence are all flooded to

a depth of eighteen inches on their floors.

These elevations, built by the aborigines, hundreds of years ago, are

the only points of refuge for miles. When we arrived we found them

crowded with stock, all of which was thin and hardly able to stand up.

They were mixed together, sheep, hogs, horses, mules, and cattle. One of

these mounds has been used for many years as the grave-yard, and to-day

we saw attenuated cows lying against the marble tomb-stones, chewing

their cud in contentment, after a meal of corn furnished by General

York. Here, as below, the remarkable skill of the women and girls in the

management of the smaller pirogues was noticed. Children were paddling

about in these most ticklish crafts with all the nonchalance of adepts.

General York has put into operation a perfect system in regard to

furnishing relief. He makes a personal inspection of the place where it

is asked, sees what is necessary to be done, and then, having two boats

chartered, with flats, sends them promptly to the place, when the cattle

are loaded and towed to the pine hills and uplands of Catahoula. He

has made Troy his headquarters, and to this point boats come for their

supply of feed for cattle. On the opposite side of Little River, which

branches to the left out of Black, and between it and the Ouachita,

is situated the town of Trinity, which is hourly threatened with

destruction. It is much lower than Troy, and the water is eight and nine

feet deep in the houses. A strong current sweeps through it, and it is

remarkable that all of its houses have not gone before. The residents of

both Troy and Trinity have been cared for, yet some of their stock have

to be furnished with food.

As soon as the 'Susie' reached Troy, she was turned over to General

York, and placed at his disposition to carry out the work of relief more

rapidly. Nearly all her supplies were landed on one of the mounds to

lighten her, and she was headed down stream to relieve those below.

At Tom Hooper's place, a few miles from Troy, a large flat, with about

fifty head of stock on board, was taken in tow. The animals were fed,

and soon regained some strength. To-day we go on Little River, where the

suffering is greatest.

DOWN BLACK RIVER

Saturday Evening, March 25.

We started down Black River quite early, under the direction of General

York, to bring out what stock could be reached. Going down river a flat

in tow was left in a central locality, and from there men poled her back

in the rear of plantations, picking up the animals wherever found. In

the loft of a gin-house there were seventeen head found, and after a

gangway was built they were led down into the flat without difficulty.

Taking a skiff with the General, your reporter was pulled up to a little

house of two rooms, in which the water was standing two feet on the

floors. In one of the large rooms were huddled the horses and cows of

the place, while in the other the Widow Taylor and her son were seated

on a scaffold raised on the floor. One or two dug-outs were drifting

about in the roam ready to be put in service at any time. When the flat

was brought up, the side of the house was cut away as the only means of

getting the animals out, and the cattle were driven on board the boat.

General York, in this as in every case, inquired if the family desired

to leave, informing them that Major Burke, of 'The Times-Democrat,' has

sent the 'Susie' up for that purpose. Mrs. Taylor said she thanked Major

Burke, but she would try and hold out. The remarkable tenacity of the

people here to their homes is beyond all comprehension. Just below, at

a point sixteen miles from Troy, information was received that the

house of Mr. Tom Ellis was in danger, and his family were all in it. We

steamed there immediately, and a sad picture was presented. Looking out

of the half of the window left above water, was Mrs. Ellis, who is in

feeble health, whilst at the door were her seven children, the oldest

not fourteen years. One side of the house was given up to the work

animals, some twelve head, besides hogs. In the next room the family

lived, the water coming within two inches of the bed-rail. The stove was

below water, and the cooking was done on a fire on top of it. The house

threatened to give way at any moment: one end of it was sinking, and,

in fact, the building looked a mere shell. As the boat rounded to, Mr.

Ellis came out in a dug-out, and General York told him that he had come

to his relief; that 'The Times-Democrat' boat was at his service, and

would remove his family at once to the hills, and on Monday a flat

would take out his stock, as, until that time, they would be busy.

Notwithstanding the deplorable situation himself and family were in,

Mr. Ellis did not want to leave. He said he thought he would wait until

Monday, and take the risk of his house falling. The children around the

door looked perfectly contented, seeming to care little for the danger

they were in. These are but two instances of the many. After weeks of

privation and suffering, people still cling to their houses and leave

only when there is not room between the water and the ceiling to build

a scaffold on which to stand. It seemed to be incomprehensible, yet the

love for the old place was stronger than that for safety.

After leaving the Ellis place, the next spot touched at was the Oswald

place. Here the flat was towed alongside the gin-house where there were

fifteen head standing in water; and yet, as they stood on scaffolds,

their heads were above the top of the entrance. It was found impossible

to get them out without cutting away a portion of the front; and so

axes were brought into requisition and a gap made. After much labor the

horses and mules were securely placed on the flat.

At each place we stop there are always three, four, or more dug-outs

arriving, bringing information of stock in other places in need.

Notwithstanding the fact that a great many had driven a part of their

stock to the hills some time ago, there yet remains a large quantity,

which General York, who is working with indomitable energy, will get

landed in the pine hills by Tuesday.

All along Black River the 'Susie' has been visited by scores of

planters, whose tales are the repetition of those already heard of

suffering and loss. An old planter, who has lived on the river since

1844, said there never was such a rise, and he was satisfied more than

one quarter of the stock has been lost. Luckily the people cared first

for their work stock, and when they could find it horses and mules were

housed in a place of safety. The rise which still continues, and was two

inches last night, compels them to get them out to the hills; hence it

is that the work of General York is of such a great value. From daylight

to late at night he is going this way and that, cheering by his

kindly words and directing with calm judgment what is to be done. One

unpleasant story, of a certain merchant in New Orleans, is told all

along the river. It appears for some years past the planters have been

dealing with this individual, and many of them had balances in his

hands. When the overflow came they wrote for coffee, for meal, and, in

fact, for such little necessities as were required. No response to these

letters came, and others were written, and yet these old customers, with

plantations under water, were refused even what was necessary to sustain

life. It is needless to say he is not popular now on Back River.

The hills spoken of as the place of refuge for the people and stock on

Black River are in Catahoula parish, twenty-four miles from Black River.

After filling the flat with cattle we took on board the family of T. S.

Hooper, seven in number, who could not longer remain in their dwelling,

and we are now taking them up Little River to the hills.

THE FLOOD STILL RISING

Troy: March 27, 1882, noon.

The flood here is rising about three and a half inches every twenty-four

hours, and rains have set in which will increase this. General York

feels now that our efforts ought to be directed towards saving life, as

the increase of the water has jeopardized many houses. We intend to

go up the Tensas in a few minutes, and then we will return and go

down Black River to take off families. There is a lack of steam

transportation here to meet the emergency. The General has three boats

chartered, with flats in tow, but the demand for these to tow out stock

is greater than they can meet with promptness. All are working night and

day, and the 'Susie' hardly stops for more than an hour anywhere. The

rise has placed Trinity in a dangerous plight, and momentarily it

is expected that some of the houses will float off. Troy is a little

higher, yet all are in the water. Reports have come in that a woman

and child have been washed away below here, and two cabins floated

off. Their occupants are the same who refused to come off day before

yesterday. One would not believe the utter passiveness of the people.

As yet no news has been received of the steamer 'Delia,' which is

supposed to be the one sunk in yesterday's storm on Lake Catahoula.

She is due here now, but has not arrived. Even the mail here is most

uncertain, and this I send by skiff to Natchez to get it to you. It is

impossible to get accurate data as to past crops, etc., as those who

know much about the matter have gone, and those who remain are not well

versed in the production of this section.

General York desires me to say that the amount of rations formerly sent

should be duplicated and sent at once. It is impossible to make any

estimate, for the people are fleeing to the hills, so rapid is the

rise. The residents here are in a state of commotion that can only be

appreciated when seen, and complete demoralization has set in.

If rations are drawn for any particular section hereabouts, they would

not be certain to be distributed, so everything should be sent to Troy

as a center, and the General will have it properly disposed of. He

has sent for one hundred tents, and, if all go to the hills who are in

motion now, two hundred will be required.

APPENDIX B

THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER COMMISSION

THE condition of this rich valley of the Lower Mississippi, immediately

after and since the war, constituted one of the disastrous effects of

war most to be deplored. Fictitious property in slaves was not only

righteously destroyed, but very much of the work which had depended upon

the slave labor was also destroyed or greatly impaired, especially the

levee system.

It might have been expected by those who have not investigated the

subject, that such important improvements as the construction and

maintenance of the levees would have been assumed at once by the several

States. But what can the State do where the people are under subjection

to rates of interest ranging from 18 to 30 per cent., and are also under

the necessity of pledging their crops in advance even of planting, at

these rates, for the privilege of purchasing all of their supplies at

100 per cent. profit?

It has needed but little attention to make it perfectly obvious that

the control of the Mississippi River, if undertaken at all, must be

undertaken by the national government, and cannot be compassed by

States. The river must be treated as a unit; its control cannot be

compassed under a divided or separate system of administration.

Neither are the States especially interested competent to combine among

themselves for the necessary operations. The work must begin far up the

river; at least as far as Cairo, if not beyond; and must be conducted

upon a consistent general plan throughout the course of the river.

It does not need technical or scientific knowledge to comprehend the

elements of the case if one will give a little time and attention to the

subject, and when a Mississippi River commission has been constituted,

as the existing commission is, of thoroughly able men of different walks

in life, may it not be suggested that their verdict in the case should

be accepted as conclusive, so far as any a priori theory of construction

or control can be considered conclusive?

It should be remembered that upon this board are General Gilmore,

General Comstock, and General Suter, of the United States Engineers;

Professor Henry Mitchell (the most competent authority on the question

of hydrography), of the United States Coast Survey; B. B. Harrod,

the State Engineer of Louisiana; Jas. B. Eads, whose success with the

jetties at New Orleans is a warrant of his competency, and Judge Taylor,

of Indiana.

It would be presumption on the part of any single man, however skilled,

to contest the judgment of such a board as this.

The method of improvement proposed by the commission is at once in

accord with the results of engineering experience and with observations

of nature where meeting our wants. As in nature the growth of trees and

their proneness where undermined to fall across the slope and support

the bank secures at some points a fair depth of channel and some degree

of permanence, so in the project of the engineer the use of timber and

brush and the encouragement of forest growth are the main features. It

is proposed to reduce the width where excessive by brushwood dykes, at

first low, but raised higher and higher as the mud of the river settles

under their shelter, and finally slope them back at the angle upon which

willows will grow freely. In this work there are many details connected

with the forms of these shelter dykes, their arrangements so as to

present a series of settling basins, etc., a description of which would

only complicate the conception. Through the larger part of the river

works of contraction will not be required, but nearly all the banks

on the concave side of the beds must be held against the wear of the

stream, and much of the opposite banks defended at critical points.

The works having in view this conservative object may be generally

designated works of revetment; and these also will be largely of

brushwood, woven in continuous carpets, or twined into wire-netting.

This veneering process has been successfully employed on the Missouri

River; and in some cases they have so covered themselves with sediments,

and have become so overgrown with willows, that they may be regarded as

permanent. In securing these mats rubble-stone is to be used in small

quantities, and in some instances the dressed slope between high and low

river will have to be more or less paved with stone.

Any one who has been on the Rhine will have observed operations not

unlike those to which we have just referred; and, indeed, most of the

rivers of Europe flowing among their own alluvia have required similar

treatment in the interest of navigation and agriculture.

The levee is the crowning work of bank revetment, although not

necessarily in immediate connection. It may be set back a short distance

from the revetted bank; but it is, in effect, the requisite parapet.

The flood river and the low river cannot be brought into register, and

compelled to unite in the excavation of a single permanent channel,

without a complete control of all the stages; and even the abnormal rise

must be provided against, because this would endanger the levee, and

once in force behind the works of revetment would tear them also away.

Under the general principle that the local slope of a river is the

result and measure of the resistance of its bed, it is evident that

a narrow and deep stream should have less slope, because it has less

frictional surface in proportion to capacity; i.e., less perimeter in

proportion to area of cross section. The ultimate effect of levees and

revetments confining the floods and bringing all the stages of the river

into register is to deepen the channel and let down the slope. The first

effect of the levees is to raise the surface; but this, by inducing

greater velocity of flow, inevitably causes an enlargement of section,

and if this enlargement is prevented from being made at the expense of

the banks, the bottom must give way and the form of the waterway be so

improved as to admit this flow with less rise. The actual experience

with levees upon the Mississippi River, with no attempt to hold the

banks, has been favorable, and no one can doubt, upon the evidence

furnished in the reports of the commission, that if the earliest levees

had been accompanied by revetment of banks, and made complete, we should

have to-day a river navigable at low water, and an adjacent country safe

from inundation.

Of course it would be illogical to conclude that the constrained river

can ever lower its flood slope so as to make levees unnecessary, but it

is believed that, by this lateral constraint, the river as a conduit may

be so improved in form that even those rare floods which result from the

coincident rising of many tributaries will find vent without destroying

levees of ordinary height. That the actual capacity of a channel through

alluvium depends upon its service during floods has been often shown,

but this capacity does not include anomalous, but recurrent, floods.

It is hardly worth while to consider the projects for relieving

the Mississippi River floods by creating new outlets, since these

sensational propositions have commended themselves only to unthinking

minds, and have no support among engineers. Were the river bed

cast-iron, a resort to openings for surplus waters might be a necessity;

but as the bottom is yielding, and the best form of outlet is a single

deep channel, as realizing the least ratio of perimeter to area of

cross section, there could not well be a more unphilosophical method of

treatment than the multiplication of avenues of escape.

In the foregoing statement the attempt has been made to condense in

as limited a space as the importance of the subject would permit,

the general elements of the problem, and the general features of the

proposed method of improvement which has been adopted by the Mississippi

River Commission.

The writer cannot help feeling that it is somewhat presumptuous on his

part to attempt to present the facts relating to an enterprise which

calls for the highest scientific skill; but it is a matter which

interests every citizen of the United States, and is one of the methods

of reconstruction which ought to be approved. It is a war claim which

implies no private gain, and no compensation except for one of the cases

of destruction incident to war, which may well be repaired by the people

of the whole country.

EDWARD ATKINSON.

Boston: April 14, 1882.

APPENDIX C

RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN BASIL HALL'S BOOK IN THE UNITED STATES

HAVING now arrived nearly at the end of our travels, I am induced, ere I

conclude, again to mention what I consider as one of the most remarkable

traits in the national character of the Americans; namely, their

exquisite sensitiveness and soreness respecting everything said or

written concerning them. Of this, perhaps, the most remarkable example I

can give is the effect produced on nearly every class of readers by the

appearance of Captain Basil Hall's 'Travels in North America.' In fact,

it was a sort of moral earthquake, and the vibration it occasioned

through the nerves of the republic, from one corner of the Union to

the other, was by no means over when I left the country in July 1831, a

couple of years after the shock.

I was in Cincinnati when these volumes came out, but it was not till

July 1830, that I procured a copy of them. One bookseller to whom I

applied told me that he had had a few copies before he understood the

nature of the work, but that, after becoming acquainted with it, nothing

should induce him to sell another. Other persons of his profession must,

however, have been less scrupulous; for the book was read in city, town,

village, and hamlet, steamboat, and stage-coach, and a sort of war-whoop

was sent forth perfectly unprecedented in my recollection upon any

occasion whatever.

An ardent desire for approbation, and a delicate sensitiveness under

censure, have always, I believe, been considered as amiable traits of

character; but the condition into which the appearance of Captain Hall's

work threw the republic shows plainly that these feelings, if carried to

excess, produce a weakness which amounts to imbecility.

It was perfectly astonishing to hear men who, on other subjects, were

of some judgment, utter their opinions upon this. I never heard of any

instance in which the commonsense generally found in national criticism

was so overthrown by passion. I do not speak of the want of justice, and

of fair and liberal interpretation: these, perhaps, were hardly to be

expected. Other nations have been called thin-skinned, but the citizens

of the Union have, apparently, no skins at all; they wince if a breeze

blows over them, unless it be tempered with adulation. It was not,

therefore, very surprising that the acute and forcible observations of a

traveler they knew would be listened to should be received testily. The

extraordinary features of the business were, first, the excess of the

rage into which they lashed themselves; and, secondly, the puerility of

the inventions by which they attempted to account for the severity with

which they fancied they had been treated.

Not content with declaring that the volumes contained no word of truth,

from beginning to end (which is an assertion I heard made very nearly as

often as they were mentioned), the whole country set to work to discover

the causes why Captain Hall had visited the United States, and why he

had published his book.

I have heard it said with as much precision and gravity as if the

statement had been conveyed by an official report, that Captain Hall

had been sent out by the British Government expressly for the purpose

of checking the growing admiration of England for the Government of the

United States,--that it was by a commission from the treasury he had

come, and that it was only in obedience to orders that he had found

anything to object to.

I do not give this as the gossip of a coterie; I am persuaded that it is

the belief of a very considerable portion of the country. So deep is

the conviction of this singular people that they cannot be seen without

being admired, that they will not admit the possibility that any one

should honestly and sincerely find aught to disapprove in them or their

country.

The American Reviews are, many of them, I believe, well known in

England; I need not, therefore, quote them here, but I sometimes

wondered that they, none of them, ever thought of translating Obadiah's

curse into classic American; if they had done so, on placing (he, Basil

Hall) between brackets, instead of (he, Obadiah) it would have saved

them a world of trouble.

I can hardly describe the curiosity with which I sat down at length

to peruse these tremendous volumes; still less can I do justice to my

surprise at their contents. To say that I found not one exaggerated

statement throughout the work is by no means saying enough. It is

impossible for any one who knows the country not to see that Captain

Hall earnestly sought out things to admire and commend. When he praises,

it is with evident pleasure; and when he finds fault, it is with evident

reluctance and restraint, excepting where motives purely patriotic urge

him to state roundly what it is for the benefit of his country should be

known.

In fact, Captain Hall saw the country to the greatest possible

advantage. Furnished, of course, with letters of introduction to the

most distinguished individuals, and with the still more influential

recommendation of his own reputation, he was received in full

drawing-room style and state from one end of the Union to the other.

He saw the country in full dress, and had little or no opportunity

of judging of it unhouselled, unanointed, unannealed, with all its

imperfections on its head, as I and my family too often had.

Captain Hall had certainly excellent opportunities of making himself

acquainted with the form of the government and the laws; and of

receiving, moreover, the best oral commentary upon them, in conversation

with the most distinguished citizens. Of these opportunities he made

excellent use; nothing important met his eye which did not receive that

sort of analytical attention which an experienced and philosophical

traveler alone can give. This has made his volumes highly interesting

and valuable; but I am deeply persuaded, that were a man of equal

penetration to visit the United States with no other means of becoming

acquainted with the national character than the ordinary working-day

intercourse of life, he would conceive an infinitely lower idea of the

moral atmosphere of the country than Captain Hall appears to have done;

and the internal conviction on my mind is strong, that if Captain

Hall had not placed a firm restraint on himself, he must have given

expression to far deeper indignation than any he has uttered against

many points in the American character, with which he shows from other

circumstances that he was well acquainted. His rule appears to have been

to state just so much of the truth as would leave on the mind of his

readers a correct impression, at the least cost of pain to the sensitive

folks he was writing about. He states his own opinions and feelings, and

leaves it to be inferred that he has good grounds for adopting them;

but he spares the Americans the bitterness which a detail of the

circumstances would have produced.

If any one chooses to say that some wicked antipathy to twelve millions

of strangers is the origin of my opinion, I must bear it; and were the

question one of mere idle speculation, I certainly would not court the

abuse I must meet for stating it. But it is not so.

. . . . . . .

The candor which he expresses, and evidently feels, they mistake for

irony, or totally distrust; his unwillingness to give pain to

persons from whom he has received kindness, they scornfully reject as

affectation, and although they must know right well, in their own secret

hearts, how infinitely more they lay at his mercy than he has chosen to

betray; they pretend, even to themselves, that he has exaggerated the

bad points of their character and institutions; whereas, the truth is,

that he has let them off with a degree of tenderness which may be quite

suitable for him to exercise, however little merited; while, at the

same time, he has most industriously magnified their merits, whenever he

could possibly find anything favorable.

APPENDIX D

THE UNDYING HEAD

IN a remote part of the North lived a man and his sister, who had never

seen a human being. Seldom, if ever, had the man any cause to go from

home; for, as his wants demanded food, he had only to go a little

distance from the lodge, and there, in some particular spot, place his

arrows, with their barbs in the ground. Telling his sister where they

had been placed, every morning she would go in search, and never fail

of finding each stuck through the heart of a deer. She had then only to

drag them into the lodge and prepare their food. Thus she lived till she

attained womanhood, when one day her brother, whose name was Iamo, said

to her: 'Sister, the time is at hand when you will be ill. Listen to my

advice. If you do not, it will probably be the cause of my death. Take

the implements with which we kindle our fires. Go some distance from our

lodge and build a separate fire. When you are in want of food, I will

tell you where to find it. You must cook for yourself, and I will for

myself. When you are ill, do not attempt to come near the lodge, or

bring any of the utensils you use. Be sure always to fasten to your belt

the implements you need, for you do not know when the time will come. As

for myself, I must do the best I can.' His sister promised to obey him

in all he had said.

Shortly after, her brother had cause to go from home. She was alone in

her lodge, combing her hair. She had just untied the belt to which the

implements were fastened, when suddenly the event, to which her brother

had alluded, occurred. She ran out of the lodge, but in her haste forgot

the belt. Afraid to return, she stood for some time thinking. Finally,

she decided to enter the lodge and get it. For, thought she, my brother

is not at home, and I will stay but a moment to catch hold of it. She

went back. Running in suddenly, she caught hold of it, and was coming

out when her brother came in sight. He knew what was the matter. 'Oh,'

he said, 'did I not tell you to take care. But now you have killed me.'

She was going on her way, but her brother said to her, 'What can you

do there now. The accident has happened. Go in, and stay where you have

always stayed. And what will become of you? You have killed me.'

He then laid aside his hunting-dress and accoutrements, and soon after

both his feet began to turn black, so that he could not move. Still he

directed his sister where to place the arrows, that she might always

have food. The inflammation continued to increase, and had now reached

his first rib; and he said: 'Sister, my end is near. You must do as

I tell you. You see my medicine-sack, and my war-club tied to it. It

contains all my medicines, and my war-plumes, and my paints of all

colors. As soon as the inflammation reaches my breast, you will take my

war-club. It has a sharp point, and you will cut off my head. When it is

free from my body, take it, place its neck in the sack, which you must

open at one end. Then hang it up in its former place. Do not forget

my bow and arrows. One of the last you will take to procure food. The

remainder, tie in my sack, and then hang it up, so that I can look

towards the door. Now and then I will speak to you, but not often.' His

sister again promised to obey.

In a little time his breast was affected. 'Now,' said he, 'take the

club and strike off my head.' She was afraid, but he told her to muster

courage. 'Strike,' said he, and a smile was on his face. Mustering all

her courage, she gave the blow and cut off the head. 'Now,' said the

head, 'place me where I told you.' And fearfully she obeyed it in all

its commands. Retaining its animation, it looked around the lodge

as usual, and it would command its sister to go in such places as it

thought would procure for her the flesh of different animals she needed.

One day the head said: 'The time is not distant when I shall be freed

from this situation, and I shall have to undergo many sore evils. So

the superior manito decrees, and I must bear all patiently.' In this

situation we must leave the head.

In a certain part of the country was a village inhabited by a numerous

and warlike band of Indians. In this village was a family of ten young

men--brothers. It was in the spring of the year that the youngest of

these blackened his face and fasted. His dreams were propitious. Having

ended his fast, he went secretly for his brothers at night, so that none

in the village could overhear or find out the direction they intended

to go. Though their drum was heard, yet that was a common occurrence.

Having ended the usual formalities, he told how favorable his dreams

were, and that he had called them together to know if they would

accompany him in a war excursion. They all answered they would. The

third brother from the eldest, noted for his oddities, coming up with

his war-club when his brother had ceased speaking, jumped up. 'Yes,'

said he, 'I will go, and this will be the way I will treat those I am

going to fight;' and he struck the post in the center of the lodge, and

gave a yell. The others spoke to him, saying: 'Slow, slow, Mudjikewis,

when you are in other people's lodges.' So he sat down. Then, in turn,

they took the drum, and sang their songs, and closed with a feast. The

youngest told them not to whisper their intention to their wives, but

secretly to prepare for their journey. They all promised obedience, and

Mudjikewis was the first to say so.

The time for their departure drew near. Word was given to assemble on a

certain night, when they would depart immediately. Mudjikewis was loud

in his demands for his moccasins. Several times his wife asked him the

reason. 'Besides,' said she, 'you have a good pair on.' 'Quick, quick,'

said he, 'since you must know, we are going on a war excursion; so be

quick.' He thus revealed the secret. That night they met and started.

The snow was on the ground, and they traveled all night, lest others

should follow them. When it was daylight, the leader took snow and made

a ball of it, then tossing it into the air, he said: 'It was in this way

I saw snow fall in a dream, so that I could not be tracked.' And he told

them to keep close to each other for fear of losing themselves, as the

snow began to fall in very large flakes. Near as they walked, it was

with difficulty they could see each other. The snow continued falling

all that day and the following night, so it was impossible to track

them.

They had now walked for several days, and Mudjikewis was always in

the rear. One day, running suddenly forward, he gave the

_saw-saw-quan_,{footnote [War-whoop.]} and struck a tree with his

war-club, and it broke into pieces as if struck with lightning.

'Brothers,' said he, 'this will be the way I will serve those we are

going to fight.' The leader answered, 'Slow, slow, Mudjikewis, the one I

lead you to is not to be thought of so lightly.' Again he fell back and

thought to himself: 'What! what! who can this be he is leading us to?'

He felt fearful and was silent. Day after day they traveled on, till

they came to an extensive plain, on the borders of which human bones

were bleaching in the sun. The leader spoke: 'They are the bones of

those who have gone before us. None has ever yet returned to tell the

sad tale of their fate.' Again Mudjikewis became restless, and, running

forward, gave the accustomed yell. Advancing to a large rock which stood

above the ground, he struck it, and it fell to pieces. 'See, brothers,'

said he, 'thus will I treat those whom we are going to fight.' 'Still,

still,' once more said the leader; 'he to whom I am leading you is not

to be compared to the rock.'

Mudjikewis fell back thoughtful, saying to himself: 'I wonder who

this can be that he is going to attack;' and he was afraid. Still they

continued to see the remains of former warriors, who had been to the

place where they were now going, some of whom had retreated as far back

as the place where they first saw the bones, beyond which no one had

ever escaped. At last they came to a piece of rising ground, from which

they plainly distinguished, sleeping on a distant mountain, a mammoth

bear.

The distance between them was very great, but the size of the animal

caused him to be plainly seen. 'There,' said the leader, 'it is he to

whom I am leading you; here our troubles will commence, for he is a

mishemokwa and a manito. It is he who has that we prize so dearly (i.e.

wampum), to obtain which, the warriors whose bones we saw, sacrificed

their lives. You must not be fearful: be manly. We shall find him

asleep.' Then the leader went forward and touched the belt around the

animal's neck. 'This,' said he, 'is what we must get. It contains the

wampum.' Then they requested the eldest to try and slip the belt over

the bear's head, who appeared to be fast asleep, as he was not in the

least disturbed by the attempt to obtain the belt. All their efforts

were in vain, till it came to the one next the youngest. He tried, and

the belt moved nearly over the monster's head, but he could get it no

farther. Then the youngest one, and the leader, made his attempt, and

succeeded. Placing it on the back of the oldest, he said, 'Now we must

run,' and off they started. When one became fatigued with its weight,

another would relieve him. Thus they ran till they had passed the bones

of all former warriors, and were some distance beyond, when looking

back, they saw the monster slowly rising. He stood some time before he

missed his wampum. Soon they heard his tremendous howl, like distant

thunder, slowly filling all the sky; and then they heard him speak and

say, 'Who can it be that has dared to steal my wampum? earth is not

so large but that I can find them;' and he descended from the hill in

pursuit. As if convulsed, the earth shook with every jump he made. Very

soon he approached the party. They, however, kept the belt, exchanging

it from one to another, and encouraging each other; but he gained on

them fast. 'Brothers,' said the leader, 'has never any one of you,

when fasting, dreamed of some friendly spirit who would aid you as a

guardian?' A dead silence followed. 'Well,' said he, 'fasting, I dreamed

of being in danger of instant death, when I saw a small lodge, with

smoke curling from its top. An old man lived in it, and I dreamed he

helped me; and may it be verified soon,' he said, running forward and

giving the peculiar yell, and a howl as if the sounds came from the

depths of his stomach, and what is called _checaudum_. Getting upon a

piece of rising ground, behold! a lodge, with smoke curling from its

top, appeared. This gave them all new strength, and they ran forward

and entered it. The leader spoke to the old man who sat in the lodge,

saying, 'Nemesho, help us; we claim your protection, for the great bear

will kill us.' 'Sit down and eat, my grandchildren,' said the old man.

'Who is a great manito?' said he. 'There is none but me; but let me

look,' and he opened the door of the lodge, when, lo! at a little

distance he saw the enraged animal coming on, with slow but powerful

leaps. He closed the door. 'Yes,' said he, 'he is indeed a great manito:

my grandchildren, you will be the cause of my losing my life; you asked

my protection, and I granted it; so now, come what may, I will protect

you. When the bear arrives at the door, you must run out of the other

door of the lodge.' Then putting his hand to the side of the lodge where

he sat, he brought out a bag which he opened. Taking out two small

black dogs, he placed them before him. 'These are the ones I use when I

fight,' said he; and he commenced patting with both hands the sides of

one of them, and he began to swell out, so that he soon filled the lodge

by his bulk; and he had great strong teeth. When he attained his full

size he growled, and from that moment, as from instinct, he jumped out

at the door and met the bear, who in another leap would have reached the

lodge. A terrible combat ensued. The skies rang with the howls of the

fierce monsters. The remaining dog soon took the field. The brothers,

at the onset, took the advice of the old man, and escaped through the

opposite side of the lodge. They had not proceeded far before they heard

the dying cry of one of the dogs, and soon after of the other. 'Well,'

said the leader, 'the old man will share their fate: so run; he will

soon be after us.' They started with fresh vigor, for they had received

food from the old man: but very soon the bear came in sight, and again

was fast gaining upon them. Again the leader asked the brothers if they

could do nothing for their safety. All were silent. The leader, running

forward, did as before. 'I dreamed,' he cried, 'that, being in great

trouble, an old man helped me who was a manito; we shall soon see his

lodge.' Taking courage, they still went on. After going a short distance

they saw the lodge of the old manito. They entered immediately and

claimed his protection, telling him a manito was after them. The old

man, setting meat before them, said: 'Eat! who is a manito? there is no

manito but me; there is none whom I fear;' and the earth trembled as

the monster advanced. The old man opened the door and saw him coming.

He shut it slowly, and said: 'Yes, my grandchildren, you have brought

trouble upon me.' Procuring his medicine-sack, he took out his small

war-clubs of black stone, and told the young men to run through the

other side of the lodge. As he handled the clubs, they became very

large, and the old man stepped out just as the bear reached the door.

Then striking him with one of the clubs, it broke in pieces; the bear

stumbled. Renewing the attempt with the other war-club, that also was

broken, but the bear fell senseless. Each blow the old man gave him

sounded like a clap of thunder, and the howls of the bear ran along till

they filled the heavens.

The young men had now run some distance, when they looked back. They

could see that the bear was recovering from the blows. First he moved

his paws, and soon they saw him rise on his feet. The old man shared

the fate of the first, for they now heard his cries as he was torn in

pieces. Again the monster was in pursuit, and fast overtaking them. Not

yet discouraged, the young men kept on their way; but the bear was now

so close, that the leader once more applied to his brothers, but they

could do nothing. 'Well,' said he, 'my dreams will soon be exhausted;

after this I have but one more.' He advanced, invoking his guardian

spirit to aid him. 'Once,' said he, 'I dreamed that, being sorely

pressed, I came to a large lake, on the shore of which was a canoe,

partly out of water, having ten paddles all in readiness. Do not fear,'

he cried, 'we shall soon get it.' And so it was, even as he had said.

Coming to the lake, they saw the canoe with ten paddles, and immediately

they embarked. Scarcely had they reached the center of the lake, when

they saw the bear arrive at its borders. Lifting himself on his hind

legs, he looked all around. Then he waded into the water; then losing

his footing he turned back, and commenced making the circuit of the

lake. Meantime the party remained stationary in the center to watch his

movements. He traveled all around, till at last he came to the place

from whence he started. Then he commenced drinking up the water, and

they saw the current fast setting in towards his open mouth. The leader

encouraged them to paddle hard for the opposite shore. When only a short

distance from land, the current had increased so much, that they were

drawn back by it, and all their efforts to reach it were in vain.

Then the leader again spoke, telling them to meet their fates manfully.

'Now is the time, Mudjikewis,' said he, 'to show your prowess. Take

courage and sit at the bow of the canoe; and when it approaches his

mouth, try what effect your club will have on his head.' He obeyed, and

stood ready to give the blow; while the leader, who steered, directed

the canoe for the open mouth of the monster.

Rapidly advancing, they were just about to enter his mouth, when

Mudjikewis struck him a tremendous blow on the head, and gave the

_saw-saw-quan_. The bear's limbs doubled under him, and he fell, stunned

by the blow. But before Mudjikewis could renew it, the monster disgorged

all the water he had drank, with a force which sent the canoe with great

velocity to the opposite shore. Instantly leaving the canoe, again they

fled, and on they went till they were completely exhausted. The earth

again shook, and soon they saw the monster hard after them. Their

spirits drooped, and they felt discouraged. The leader exerted himself,

by actions and words, to cheer them up; and once more he asked them if

they thought of nothing, or could do nothing for their rescue; and, as

before, all were silent. 'Then,' he said, 'this is the last time I can

apply to my guardian spirit. Now, if we do not succeed, our fates are

decided.' He ran forward, invoking his spirit with great earnestness,

and gave the yell. 'We shall soon arrive,' said he to his brothers, 'at

the place where my last guardian spirit dwells. In him I place great

confidence. Do not, do not be afraid, or your limbs will be fear-bound.

We shall soon reach his lodge. Run, run,' he cried.

Returning now to Iamo, he had passed all the time in the same condition

we had left him, the head directing his sister, in order to procure

food, where to place the magic arrows, and speaking at long intervals.

One day the sister saw the eyes of the head brighten, as if with

pleasure. At last it spoke. 'Oh, sister,' it said, 'in what a pitiful

situation you have been the cause of placing me! Soon, very soon, a

party of young men will arrive and apply to me for aid; but alas! How

can I give what I would have done with so much pleasure? Nevertheless,

take two arrows, and place them where you have been in the habit of

placing the others, and have meat prepared and cooked before they

arrive. When you hear them coming and calling on my name, go out and

say, “Alas! it is long ago that an accident befell him. I was the cause

of it.” If they still come near, ask them in, and set meat before them.

And now you must follow my directions strictly. When the bear is near,

go out and meet him. You will take my medicine-sack, bows and arrows,

and my head. You must then untie the sack, and spread out before you my

paints of all colors, my war-eagle feathers, my tufts of dried hair,

and whatever else it contains. As the bear approaches, you will take

all these articles, one by one, and say to him, “This is my deceased

brother's paint,” and so on with all the other articles, throwing each

of them as far as you can. The virtues contained in them will cause him

to totter; and, to complete his destruction, you will take my head, and

that too you will cast as far off as you can, crying aloud, “See, this

is my deceased brother's head.” He will then fall senseless. By this

time the young men will have eaten, and you will call them to your

assistance. You must then cut the carcass into pieces, yes, into small

pieces, and scatter them to the four winds; for, unless you do this, he

will again revive.' She promised that all should be done as he said.

She had only time to prepare the meat, when the voice of the leader

was heard calling upon Iamo for aid. The woman went out and said as her

brother had directed. But the war party being closely pursued, came

up to the lodge. She invited them in, and placed the meat before them.

While they were eating, they heard the bear approaching. Untying the

medicine-sack and taking the head, she had all in readiness for his

approach. When he came up she did as she had been told; and, before she

had expended the paints and feathers, the bear began to totter, but,

still advancing, came close to the woman. Saying as she was commanded,

she then took the head, and cast it as far from her as she could. As it

rolled along the ground, the blood, excited by the feelings of the

head in this terrible scene, gushed from the nose and mouth. The bear,

tottering, soon fell with a tremendous noise. Then she cried for help,

and the young men came rushing out, having partially regained their

strength and spirits.

Mudjikewis, stepping up, gave a yell and struck him a blow upon the

head. This he repeated, till it seemed like a mass of brains, while the

others, as quick as possible, cut him into very small pieces, which they

then scattered in every direction. While thus employed, happening to

look around where they had thrown the meat, wonderful to behold, they

saw starting up and turning off in every direction small black bears,

such as are seen at the present day. The country was soon overspread

with these black animals. And it was from this monster that the present

race of bears derived their origin.

Having thus overcome their pursuer, they returned to the lodge. In the

meantime, the woman, gathering the implements she had used, and the

head, placed them again in the sack. But the head did not speak again,

probably from its great exertion to overcome the monster.

Having spent so much time and traversed so vast a country in their

flight, the young men gave up the idea of ever returning to their own

country, and game being plenty, they determined to remain where they

now were. One day they moved off some distance from the lodge for the

purpose of hunting, having left the wampum with the woman. They were

very successful, and amused themselves, as all young men do when alone,

by talking and jesting with each other. One of them spoke and said, 'We

have all this sport to ourselves; let us go and ask our sister if she

will not let us bring the head to this place, as it is still alive. It

may be pleased to hear us talk, and be in our company. In the meantime

take food to our sister.' They went and requested the head. She told

them to take it, and they took it to their hunting-grounds, and tried

to amuse it, but only at times did they see its eyes beam with pleasure.

One day, while busy in their encampment, they were unexpectedly attacked

by unknown Indians. The skirmish was long contested and bloody; many of

their foes were slain, but still they were thirty to one. The young men

fought desperately till they were all killed. The attacking party then

retreated to a height of ground, to muster their men, and to count the

number of missing and slain. One of their young men had stayed away,

and, in endeavoring to overtake them, came to the place where the head

was hung up. Seeing that alone retain animation, he eyed it for some

time with fear and surprise. However, he took it down and opened the

sack, and was much pleased to see the beautiful feathers, one of which

he placed on his head.

Starting off, it waved gracefully over him till he reached his party,

when he threw down the head and sack, and told them how he had found it,

and that the sack was full of paints and feathers. They all looked at

the head and made sport of it. Numbers of the young men took the paint

and painted themselves, and one of the party took the head by the hair

and said--

'Look, you ugly thing, and see your paints on the faces of warriors.'

But the feathers were so beautiful, that numbers of them also placed

them on their heads. Then again they used all kinds of indignity to the

head, for which they were in turn repaid by the death of those who

had used the feathers. Then the chief commanded them to throw away all

except the head. 'We will see,' said he, 'when we get home, what we can

do with it. We will try to make it shut its eyes.'

When they reached their homes they took it to the council-lodge, and

hung it up before the fire, fastening it with raw hide soaked, which

would shrink and become tightened by the action of the fire. 'We will

then see,' they said, 'if we cannot make it shut its eyes.'

Meantime, for several days, the sister had been waiting for the young

men to bring back the head; till, at last, getting impatient, she went

in search of it. The young men she found lying within short distances

of each other, dead, and covered with wounds. Various other bodies lay

scattered in different directions around them. She searched for the head

and sack, but they were nowhere to be found. She raised her voice and

wept, and blackened her face. Then she walked in different directions,

till she came to the place from whence the head had been taken. Then she

found the magic bow and arrows, where the young men, ignorant of their

qualities, had left them. She thought to herself that she would find her

brother's head, and came to a piece of rising ground, and there saw some

of his paints and feathers. These she carefully put up, and hung upon

the branch of a tree till her return.

At dusk she arrived at the first lodge of a very extensive village. Here

she used a charm, common among Indians when they wish to meet with a

kind reception. On applying to the old man and woman of the lodge, she

was kindly received. She made known her errand. The old man promised to

aid her, and told her the head was hung up before the council-fire, and

that the chiefs of the village, with their young men, kept watch over

it continually. The former are considered as manitoes. She said she only

wished to see it, and would be satisfied if she could only get to the

door of the lodge. She knew she had not sufficient power to take it by

force. 'Come with me,' said the Indian, 'I will take you there.' They

went, and they took their seats near the door. The council-lodge was

filled with warriors, amusing themselves with games, and constantly

keeping up a fire to smoke the head, as they said, to make dry meat.

They saw the head move, and not knowing what to make of it, one spoke

and said: 'Ha! ha! It is beginning to feel the effects of the smoke.'

The sister looked up from the door, and her eyes met those of her

brother, and tears rolled down the cheeks of the head. 'Well,' said the

chief, 'I thought we would make you do something at last. Look! look at

it--shedding tears,' said he to those around him; and they all laughed

and passed their jokes upon it. The chief, looking around, and observing

the woman, after some time said to the man who came with her: 'Who have

you got there? I have never seen that woman before in our village.'

'Yes,' replied the man, 'you have seen her; she is a relation of mine,

and seldom goes out. She stays at my lodge, and asked me to allow her to

come with me to this place.' In the center of the lodge sat one of those

young men who are always forward, and fond of boasting and displaying

themselves before others. 'Why,' said he, 'I have seen her often, and it

is to this lodge I go almost every night to court her.' All the others

laughed and continued their games. The young man did not know he was

telling a lie to the woman's advantage, who by that means escaped.

She returned to the man's lodge, and immediately set out for her own

country. Coming to the spot where the bodies of her adopted brothers

lay, she placed them together, their feet toward the east. Then taking

an ax which she had, she cast it up into the air, crying out, 'Brothers,

get up from under it, or it will fall on you.' This she repeated three

times, and the third time the brothers all arose and stood on their

feet.

Mudjikewis commenced rubbing his eyes and stretching himself. 'Why,'

said he, 'I have overslept myself.' 'No, indeed,' said one of the

others, 'do you not know we were all killed, and that it is our sister

who has brought us to life?' The young men took the bodies of their

enemies and burned them. Soon after, the woman went to procure wives for

them, in a distant country, they knew not where; but she returned with

ten young women, which she gave to the ten young men, beginning with the

eldest. Mudjikewis stepped to and fro, uneasy lest he should not get the

one he liked. But he was not disappointed, for she fell to his lot. And

they were well matched, for she was a female magician. They then all

moved into a very large lodge, and their sister told them that the women

must now take turns in going to her brother's head every night, trying

to untie it. They all said they would do so with pleasure. The eldest

made the first attempt, and with a rushing noise she fled through the

air.

Toward daylight she returned. She had been unsuccessful, as she

succeeded in untying only one of the knots. All took their turns

regularly, and each one succeeded in untying only one knot each time.

But when the youngest went, she commenced the work as soon as she

reached the lodge; although it had always been occupied, still the

Indians never could see any one. For ten nights now, the smoke had not

ascended, but filled the lodge and drove them out. This last night they

were all driven out, and the young woman carried off the head.

The young people and the sister heard the young woman coming high

through the air, and they heard her saying: 'Prepare the body of our

brother.' And as soon as they heard it, they went to a small lodge where

the black body of Iamo lay. His sister commenced cutting the neck part,

from which the neck had been severed. She cut so deep as to cause it to

bleed; and the others who were present, by rubbing the body and applying

medicines, expelled the blackness. In the meantime, the one who brought

it, by cutting the neck of the head, caused that also to bleed.

As soon as she arrived, they placed that close to the body, and, by aid

of medicines and various other means, succeeded in restoring Iamo to all

his former beauty and manliness. All rejoiced in the happy termination

of their troubles, and they had spent some time joyfully together, when

Iamo said: 'Now I will divide the wampum,' and getting the belt which

contained it, he commenced with the eldest, giving it in equal portions.

But the youngest got the most splendid and beautiful, as the bottom of

the belt held the richest and rarest.

They were told that, since they had all once died, and were restored to

life, they were no longer mortal, but spirits, and they were assigned

different stations in the invisible world. Only Mudjikewis's place was,

however, named. He was to direct the west wind, hence generally called

Kebeyun, there to remain for ever. They were commanded, as they had

it in their power, to do good to the inhabitants of the earth, and,

forgetting their sufferings in procuring the wampum, to give all things

with a liberal hand. And they were also commanded that it should also

be held by them sacred; those grains or shells of the pale hue to be

emblematic of peace, while those of the darker hue would lead to evil

and war.

The spirits then, amid songs and shouts, took their flight to their

respective abodes on high; while Iamo, with his sister Iamoqua,

descended into the depths below.