CHAPTER 27

Some Imported Articles

WE met two steamboats at New Madrid. Two steamboats in sight at once! an

infrequent spectacle now in the lonesome Mississippi. The loneliness

of this solemn, stupendous flood is impressive--and depressing. League

after league, and still league after league, it pours its chocolate tide

along, between its solid forest walls, its almost untenanted shores,

with seldom a sail or a moving object of any kind to disturb the surface

and break the monotony of the blank, watery solitude; and so the day

goes, the night comes, and again the day--and still the same, night

after night and day after day--majestic, unchanging sameness of

serenity, repose, tranquillity, lethargy, vacancy--symbol of eternity,

realization of the heaven pictured by priest and prophet, and longed for

by the good and thoughtless!

Immediately after the war of 1812, tourists began to come to America,

from England; scattering ones at first, then a sort of procession of

them--a procession which kept up its plodding, patient march through the

land during many, many years. Each tourist took notes, and went home and

published a book--a book which was usually calm, truthful, reasonable,

kind; but which seemed just the reverse to our tender-footed

progenitors. A glance at these tourist-books shows us that in certain

of its aspects the Mississippi has undergone no change since those

strangers visited it, but remains to-day about as it was then. The

emotions produced in those foreign breasts by these aspects were not

all formed on one pattern, of course; they _had _to be various, along

at first, because the earlier tourists were obliged to originate their

emotions, whereas in older countries one can always borrow emotions

from one's predecessors. And, mind you, emotions are among the toughest

things in the world to manufacture out of whole cloth; it is easier

to manufacture seven facts than one emotion. Captain Basil Hall. R.N.,

writing fifty-five years ago, says--

'Here I caught the first glimpse of the object I had so long wished to

behold, and felt myself amply repaid at that moment for all the trouble

I had experienced in coming so far; and stood looking at the river

flowing past till it was too dark to distinguish anything. But it was

not till I had visited the same spot a dozen times, that I came to a

right comprehension of the grandeur of the scene.'

Following are Mrs. Trollope's emotions. She is writing a few months

later in the same year, 1827, and is coming in at the mouth of the

Mississippi--

'The first indication of our approach to land was the appearance of this

mighty river pouring forth its muddy mass of waters, and mingling with

the deep blue of the Mexican Gulf. I never beheld a scene so utterly

desolate as this entrance of the Mississippi. Had Dante seen it, he

might have drawn images of another Borgia from its horrors. One only

object rears itself above the eddying waters; this is the mast of a

vessel long since wrecked in attempting to cross the bar, and it still

stands, a dismal witness of the destruction that has been, and a boding

prophet of that which is to come.'

Emotions of Hon. Charles Augustus Murray (near St. Louis), seven years

later--

'It is only when you ascend the mighty current for fifty or a hundred

miles, and use the eye of imagination as well as that of nature,

that you begin to understand all his might and majesty. You see him

fertilizing a boundless valley, bearing along in his course the trophies

of his thousand victories over the shattered forest--here carrying away

large masses of soil with all their growth, and there forming islands,

destined at some future period to be the residence of man; and while

indulging in this prospect, it is then time for reflection to suggest

that the current before you has flowed through two or three thousand

miles, and has yet to travel one thousand three hundred more before

reaching its ocean destination.'

Receive, now, the emotions of Captain Marryat, R.N. author of the sea

tales, writing in 1837, three years after Mr. Murray--

'Never, perhaps, in the records of nations, was there an instance of a

century of such unvarying and unmitigated crime as is to be collected

from the history of the turbulent and blood-stained Mississippi. The

stream itself appears as if appropriate for the deeds which have been

committed. It is not like most rivers, beautiful to the sight, bestowing

fertility in its course; not one that the eye loves to dwell upon as

it sweeps along, nor can you wander upon its banks, or trust yourself

without danger to its stream. It is a furious, rapid, desolating

torrent, loaded with alluvial soil; and few of those who are received

into its waters ever rise again, {footnote [There was a foolish

superstition of some little prevalence in that day, that the Mississippi

would neither buoy up a swimmer, nor permit a drowned person's body to

rise to the surface.]} or can support themselves long upon its surface

without assistance from some friendly log. It contains the coarsest and

most uneatable of fish, such as the cat-fish and such genus, and as

you descend, its banks are occupied with the fetid alligator, while the

panther basks at its edge in the cane-brakes, almost impervious to man.

Pouring its impetuous waters through wild tracks covered with trees of

little value except for firewood, it sweeps down whole forests in its

course, which disappear in tumultuous confusion, whirled away by the

stream now loaded with the masses of soil which nourished their roots,

often blocking up and changing for a time the channel of the river,

which, as if in anger at its being opposed, inundates and devastates the

whole country round; and as soon as it forces its way through its former

channel, plants in every direction the uprooted monarchs of the forest

(upon whose branches the bird will never again perch, or the raccoon,

the opossum, or the squirrel climb) as traps to the adventurous

navigators of its waters by steam, who, borne down upon these concealed

dangers which pierce through the planks, very often have not time to

steer for and gain the shore before they sink to the bottom. There are

no pleasing associations connected with the great common sewer of

the Western America, which pours out its mud into the Mexican Gulf,

polluting the clear blue sea for many miles beyond its mouth. It is a

river of desolation; and instead of reminding you, like other beautiful

rivers, of an angel which has descended for the benefit of man, you

imagine it a devil, whose energies have been only overcome by the

wonderful power of steam.'

It is pretty crude literature for a man accustomed to handling a pen;

still, as a panorama of the emotions sent weltering through this noted

visitor's breast by the aspect and traditions of the 'great common

sewer,' it has a value. A value, though marred in the matter of

statistics by inaccuracies; for the catfish is a plenty good enough fish

for anybody, and there are no panthers that are 'impervious to man.'

Later still comes Alexander Mackay, of the Middle Temple, Barrister at

Law, with a better digestion, and no catfish dinner aboard, and feels as

follows--

'The Mississippi! It was with indescribable emotions that I first felt

myself afloat upon its waters. How often in my schoolboy dreams, and in

my waking visions afterwards, had my imagination pictured to itself the

lordly stream, rolling with tumultuous current through the boundless

region to which it has given its name, and gathering into itself, in its

course to the ocean, the tributary waters of almost every latitude in

the temperate zone! Here it was then in its reality, and I, at length,

steaming against its tide. I looked upon it with that reverence with

which everyone must regard a great feature of external nature.'

So much for the emotions. The tourists, one and all, remark upon the

deep, brooding loneliness and desolation of the vast river. Captain

Basil Hall, who saw it at flood-stage, says--

'Sometimes we passed along distances of twenty or thirty miles without

seeing a single habitation. An artist, in search of hints for a painting

of the deluge, would here have found them in abundance.'

The first shall be last, etc. just two hundred years ago, the old

original first and gallantest of all the foreign tourists, pioneer, head

of the procession, ended his weary and tedious discovery-voyage down the

solemn stretches of the great river--La Salle, whose name will last as

long as the river itself shall last. We quote from Mr. Parkman--

'And now they neared their journey's end. On the sixth of April, the

river divided itself into three broad channels. La Salle followed that

of the west, and D'Autray that of the east; while Tonty took the middle

passage. As he drifted down the turbid current, between the low and

marshy shores, the brackish water changed to brine, and the breeze grew

fresh with the salt breath of the sea. Then the broad bosom of the

great Gulf opened on his sight, tossing its restless billows, limitless,

voiceless, lonely as when born of chaos, without a sail, without a sign

of life.'

Then, on a spot of solid ground, La Salle reared a column 'bearing the

arms of France; the Frenchmen were mustered under arms; and while the

New England Indians and their squaws looked on in wondering silence,

they chanted the _Te Deum, The Exaudiat_, and the _Domine Salvum Fac

Regem_.'

Then, whilst the musketry volleyed and rejoicing shouts burst forth,

the victorious discoverer planted the column, and made proclamation in a

loud voice, taking formal possession of the river and the vast

countries watered by it, in the name of the King. The column bore this

inscription--

LOUIS LE GRAND, ROY DE FRANCE ET DE NAVARRE, REGNE; LE NEUVIEME AVRIL,

1682.

New Orleans intended to fittingly celebrate, this present year, the

bicentennial anniversary of this illustrious event; but when the

time came, all her energies and surplus money were required in other

directions, for the flood was upon the land then, making havoc and

devastation everywhere.

Life on the Mississippi · 第 27 / 60 章